TIME FOR CELEBRATION
CONTENT 4 5.......................................... 6 GUIDE TO TAIWAN.................................................................................. 8 GUIDE TO TAIWAN’S FESTIVALS...................................................... 12 TAIWAN TOP TO TAIL......................................................................... 14 WHERE TO REST YOUR HEAD IN TAIWAN................................ 18 ESCAPOLOGY........................................................................................... 20 TAIWAN IN THE BIG SCREEN........................................................ 22 TIME FOR TEA................................................................................... 24 EAT THE STREET............................................................................. 26 A GUIDE TO TAIWANESE RESTAURANTS............................... INTRODUCTION AND TAIWAN’S TOP
INTRODUCTION An island resting just south east of China, Taiwan is Asia’s hidden gem. A small island where big discoveries are made, where bustling urban streets lead you to exquisite natural terrain and where a vibrant history is tucked away in temples and museums: Taiwan sparkles from every corner. With a diverse food and arts scene, a long list of intrepid activities and a pristine coastline at your feet, Taiwan is a country that allows your imagination to run wild. Expect to fall in love with Taiwan’s landscapes, cuisine, history and culture as we take you under the skin of the ‘sweet-potato shaped’ island. Extending beyond its culinary havens and startling panoramas, join us as we show you Taiwan’s celebration culture. From Chinese New Year to Keelung Ghost Festival, be guided through a country where festivity is not just occasion but a way of life. Night markets, temples and flourishing butterfly ecologies; Black Tomato welcomes you to Taiwan.
TAIWAN’S TOP FACTS Taiwan is home to one of the world’s first interactive restaurants Mojo icuisine, whose interactive table tops allow you to choose table ‘cloth’, order, and pay by touch screen. For a taste of more Taiwanese cuisine, head to our restaurant guide on page 26. Capital city Taipei houses the world’s fastest lift; at 60 km/h this Ferrari of elevators can be found inside the 101 building that reaches up to 509 metres in height. The glassy, still waters of Sun Moon Lake form a barrier around Lalu Island, where the Thao Tribe – the only people allowed on the island – still live by their ancient codes. In 2013, the year of the snake, Hsinchu in northern Taiwan celebrated the famous Lantern Festival by lighting a giant lantern in the shape of a serpent-like water dragon. To discover more about Taiwan’s Lantern Festival flip to page 8. The closing moments of Ang Lee’s Oscar winning ‘The Life of Pi’ were shot at the beautiful Baishi beach in Taiwan. Cycling is hugely popular in Taiwan; no wonder in an island with such pretty spaces, budding nature and varied architecture. There is no better way to travel from spot to spot than on two wheels and with a large range of cultural to scenic routes trailing across the island, and public bike hire in most major cities, there’s really no excuse not to.
GUIDE TO TAIWAN
IWA N
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Hop on the train to the middle of the country, and you’ll find the spiritual Sun Moon Lake where still waters protect Lalu Island for the Thao tribe, the only people allowed on it. Take a hike through the lake’s surrounding mountains and you’ll come across gardens of peacocks and Assam black tea farms reflected in the eerily still waters. Take a boat across the water for a closer view of the historical site, and you’ll really start to feel the enchantment.
ST RA IT
Perfectly Still Lakes
LUKANG NANTOU
THE PENGHU ARCHIPELAGO
Idyllic Islands - Penghu, Little Liouciou & Orchid Island Just off the west coast of Taiwan, around a third of the way into the ocean heading towards China, the postcard-perfect Penghu Islands can be found. The strong off-shore winds make them an ideal location for windsurfing in the winter, whilst the summer is perfect for catching some rays and exploring the amazing coral reef around the islands which were formed by a volcanic eruption. Little Liouciou Island has the finest location for incredible sunsets and is surrounded by the most unusual coral that emerges from the sea. But for an authentic experience, the most southern island, Orchid Island, is populated with Taiwan’s aboriginal people, the Yami, who are of Australasian decent and have a culture quite far-removed from the Taiwanese.
TAINAN
KAOHSIUNG
LITTLE LIOUCIOU ISLAND
LUZON STR
Urban Living - Taipei & Tainan
EAST CHINA SEA KEELUNG TAOYUAN
TAIPEI
HSINCHU YILAN
MIAOLI
Located in the north of the island is the capital city Taipei. The modern, energetic city is host to the second tallest skyscraper in the world: Taipei 101. Designed to look like a stick of bamboo growing out of the earth, its shape is a metaphor for the economic growth of the country. The city is a haven for food lovers and shopaholics alike, with food markets running late into the night and diverse shopping districts ranging from luxurious labels to quirky Japanese-Harajuku inspired streets. Ancient, elaborate shrines and bustling traditional street markets sit alongside Manhattan-esque commercial districts, and temples decorated with dragons. As far as food is concerned, if the local speciality ‘Stinky Tofu’ doesn’t appeal then try a cup of bubble tea, or enjoy some of the most flavoursome dumplings imaginable. And to brush up on some history, check out the National Palace Museum – arguably the world’s largest collection of Chinese art. Here a variety of mediums are displayed on rotation, some thousands of years old, including Buddhist artefacts.
HUNG SUN MOON LAKE
HUALIEN
PHILIPPINE SEA
YUSHAN
Mountains - Mount Yushan, Taroko Gorge Adventure Paradise TAITUNG
ORCHID ISLAND
RAIT
Tropical Taiwan has the most incredible landscape: mountain ranges made of marble reaching up to 4000 metres high, luscious rainforests, gushing rivers, and steaming hot springs. With amazing terrain come outdoor activities that are equally as amazing. For the more adventurous, try scaling the snow topped peak of Yushan, (also known as Jade Mountain) and experience some panoramic views of Taiwan. Alternatively head to the high walled Taroko Gorge, which is engulfed in marble cliffs and thick vegetation, and home to almost half of all the animal species in Taiwan. Kayaking, rafting or even walking along electric turquoise rivers across the island are all possible. After all of this, there’s no better way to end your day than a soothing muscle soak in one of the many hot springs.
GUIDE TO FESTIVALS Taiwan has a rich and vibrant culture that is celebrated through many eclectic and ancient festivals. Passion is at the heart of every celebration, featuring lanterns, colourful dress, food and drink, and a healthy dose of firecrackers.
DRAGON BOAT RACING FESTIVAL Dating back to around 2500 years ago, the Dragon Boat Racing Festival is one of Taiwan’s oldest folk traditions, and now draws almost 250 teams to compete in the capital Taipei. Teams row the ornately decorated boats that look like dragons to commemorate the ancient King Cyu Yuan, who threw himself into the river to end his personal suffering after upon finding out his home province had been taken over. The story goes that local fishermen raced their boats to try to recover the body, throwing Zongzih dumplings into the river to distract the fish, and this has provided the basis for the festivals current traditions. And it is these dumplings that are eaten in huge quantities over the Dragon Boat Racing Festival. The races take place in early June, one held in Taipei, and the other in Lugang. The race itself is intensely exciting, as the expertly carved and elegantly coloured dragon boats race through the water, urged on by the noisy and excited crowd to the beat of the drums.
THE BOMBING OF MASTER HAN DAN During the Lantern Festival in the Taitung and Hualian provinces, another festival quite literally sparks into life: the Bombing of Master Han Dan. He is believed to be the God of Wealth, and one of the highest honours to be bestowed is to be selected to play the role of the great Master Han Dan in this fire-loving festival. Bare to the waist, Master Han Dan stands on a plinth carried by four men through the gathered crowd, who begin throwing firecrackers as this is believed to drive the cold from his body and ward off evil spirits. The more firecrackers you throw at the God of Wealth, the more you will be rewarded with wealth in the future. The result is a spectacular of light and energy, and a proud Master Han Dan. The tradition has been part of Lunar New Year celebrations in Taiwan for centuries, usually falling around the end of February and forms a major highlight of the two-day parade that marks the Lantern Festival and Lunar New Year.
LANTERN FESTIVAL Held on the first full moon of the lunar year, the Lantern Festival is commonly regarded as one of the most spectacular and romantic festivals in Taiwan, and is a must-see celebration for locals and visitors alike. The festival originates from the celebration of longer daylight hours in the New Year, and the coming of spring. The main event is in the capital city, Taipei, where tens of thousands of visitors from all over Taiwan (and the world) gather to see an equal number of lanterns launched into the sky. They are often made to resemble plants and animals, and are displayed in a show featuring music, laser lights and Chinese fireworks for a truly explosive celebration. Children go to temples with paper lanterns that are adorned with riddles for them to solve.
GHOST FESTIVAL September hosts the Ghost Festival, with two major festivals - one originating from Buddhism, and one from Taoism. The ghosts are believed to rise from the underworld at the beginning of the month, and offerings are made to bless the living with good luck. One not to be missed ceremony during the festival is the outstanding “Grappling with the Ghosts” in Yilan’s Toucheng. Unique among Taiwan’s Ghost Festivals, Toucheng’s festival is not only about making offerings to the dead, it’s also a chance for worshippers to give alms to the poor. Before the closing of the gates to the underworld at the end of the seventh lunar month, structures called Gupeng are built for the festival. The twelve wooden pillars reach a mighty 30 metres high, on top of which a platform is surmounted by thirteen cone-shaped bamboo structures as sweet treats and pastries are placed on the Gujhan. At the first stroke of midnight teams of young men compete with one another to climb up the tower and topple the platform of pastries. It is a true spectacle of endurance and strength.
CELEBRATE TAIWAN: FROM TOP TO TAIL Let Black Tomato be your guide to our ultimate Taiwan trip. You‘ll discover the country’s dazzling highlights and its secret gems as we take you from fabulous hotels to sprawling metropolises and unexplored landscapes in just 10 days. Inspired by the captivating Taiwan Lantern Festival, embark on a journey filled with festivity, food, and light. Whether it’s sipping bubble tea or piercing a chopstick into freshly steamed dumplings, Black Tomato prides itself on creating trips that allow you to live and breathe like a local. Prepare to be immersed.
CRUISING THROUGH THE CAPITAL Hop off the plane and be taken to the opulent W Hotel in Taipei. Situated in the depths of the distric you will live in the luxurious heart of Taipei and enjoy views from the city’s urban architecture all the way through to its vast mountainous space in the distance. After freshening up, relax by getting to know Taiwan’s capital city at your own leisure. The following day awake to W’s famous breakfast and begin your tour of the city, where you will be guided to the National Palace Museum, Martyrs’ Shrine, CKS Memorial Hall, Taipei 101, and the foodie haven that is the famous Shilin night market. On your third day emerge yourself in Taiwan’s natural history and visit Yehliu Geographic Park, where fossils are hidden within honeycomb rocks and salty shores. By night head to Taipei’s Lantern Festival; one of Taiwan’s most important and romantic events of the year. This festival sees the island become effervescent as lanterns great and small fill the sky. In the morning head to Chiufen Village, where history details the path of a small community and a gold mine.
THE PERFECT CONTRAST AT SUN MOON LAKE Head over to Sun Moon Lake, where the east side of the lake bears resemblance to the sun, and the West resembles the moon. Take a private boat tour around the lake, and get closer to the Lalu island inhabited only by aboriginals. By late afternoon you will be ready to check in to the Lalu Hotel. Situated by the lake, this hotel combines modern architecture with its ancient roots. The hotel’s simple interior design with clean lines and warm colours matches perfectly the serenity of the exterior, and the breathtaking views it offers. In the morning enjoy the hotel’s facilities such as its luxury spa or boutique. In the afternoon embrace your party spirit and head to Nantou, just south-east of Sun Moon Lake, for the Lantern Festival - a celebration that shows Taiwan at its most beautiful as lanterns fill the sky.
CITIES AND PARKS FROM TAINAN TO KENTING In the morning head over to Ten Drum Village and see a live performance of Taiwanese percussion instruments. In the afternoon you will arrive in Tainan, check into the fabulous Landis Hotel where you will be greeted by the friendliest of people and the most stylish of rooms, and then lay the day to rest as you relax inside a Taiwan tree house. The next morning explore the unique city of Tainan, which is described as the most antique city in its country, and has a fascinating history that still resonates through its streets. Explore the Koxinga Shrine, and Confucious Temple, and in the afternoon visit the Fo Guan Shan Buddhist Monastery, one of the world’s largest Buddhist organisations. The following day travel to Kenting and check into Caesar’s Park Hotel, which faces Kenting’s National Park in Hengchun Peninsula, at the southern tip of Taiwan. After check-in, visit Taiwan’s first national park, a vast and beautiful space that stretches over mountains and shores. Wind down your holiday with three days of exploring the national park and enjoying the facilities at Caesar’s Park Hotel at your own leisure. Then hop onto a transfer to Kaohsiung, take the high speed train to Taoyuan where your return flight will be ready to take you home.
WHEN TO GO MARCH TILL DECEMBER PRICE
FROM £3,649 PP FROM THE UK FROM $5,249 PP FROM L.A
IDEAL LENGHT 10 NIGHTS FLIGHT TIME
11HRS FROM UK. 13HRS 45MINS FROM L.A.
WHERE TO REST YOUR HEAD From contemporary, sleek hotels to idyllic retreats, Taiwan boasts an abundance of boltholes reflecting its diverse landscape. So whether you’re looking for a nature escape or an urban adventure, we’ll find the perfect place for you to curl up come night time.
THE LALU SUN MOON LAKE The Lalu leads the way in sleek hotel design with inspiring surroundings. With the help of award-winning Australian architect Kerry Hill, The Lalu seamlessly blends contemporary styles with traditional Asian architecture. The hotel’s views over the majestic Sun Moon Lake make your stay as relaxing and rejuvenating as you could wish for. LOCATION Situated at the foot of Taiwan’s Central Mountain Range, The Lalu is near the town of Yuchi, and a 90 minute hour drive from Taichung domestic airport. The hotel’s surrounding area offers guests at the Lalu the chance to explore temples, gardens and ancient towers, and to hike across its stunning mountains. YOUR ROOM The Lalu features 98 rooms, suites and villas to ensure that your stay is luxurious and personal. The spacious Lake View gives you expansive views of the lake from every room. With a lounge that features an open fire and a balcony with a large day bed, The Lake View provides a beautiful lakeside setting at all times of the year. Alternatively The Courtyard Villa, enclosed by bamboo walls 3m tall , has a tranquil private pool in its courtyard for you to cool off during those hot summer days. Or perhaps for the ultimate luxurious stay, The Presidential Suite is a home away from home and includes a bedroom, lounge, reading room, dining room, and kitchen. Expect soft silk walls, and Chinese antiques. WHY WE LIKE IT The Lalu’s alpine setting with panoramic views over the mystical Sun Moon Lake makes it the perfect tranquil getaway. We love the contemporary design and stunning 60 metre infinity pool, making this resort a true gem. Serenity, simplicity and elegance – what more could you want?
W TAPEI W Taipei is an ultra-modern hotel that raises the bar on chic, and combines it with classic opulence. Think spa-style bathrooms, private terraces, and a magnificent pool that really is one of a kind, and you’re only starting to discover the W Taipei experience that awaits. LOCATION In the heart of Taipei’s Xinyi district, the home of Taiwan’s glitterati crowd, W Taipei is perfect for both shopping and sightseeing as you marvel at the architecture of Taipei’s world famous skyline. The hip Uni-Hanku department store is located below the hotel and the city’s world class malls are all connected by uber modern suspended footbridges. Taipei 101 stands watch nearby this pagoda-inspired structure is an astronomical 509 metres tall making it the second tallest in the world and Taipei’s major monuments are all just moments away. Inside the hotel, views reach out over the Taipei basin, taking in Taipei’s mega metropolis downtown structures, and stretching out into Taiwan’s awesome mountains in the distance. YOUR ROOM The 405 rooms range from modern chic to outright palatial decadence. Each are adorned with the signature W bed, contemporary and comfortable furnishing, and bathrooms with marble, oak and modern fittings, blending the 16th and 21st centuries seamlessly. Indulge in the Extreme WOW suite to live in 365 square metres of luxury with 360 degree views of the city, with marble décor surrounding a 66’’ flat screen TV, and ultra-modern technology blending in next to your own private sauna. WHY WE LOVE IT When we hunt for hotels we really want a gourmet dining experience thrown in with our deluxe spaces. Fortunately W doesn’t fall short in any way. The hotel’s YEN restaurant dips into traditional cuisine and brings Chinese gastronomy to the forefront of the nouvelle, with a menu created and prepared by celebrity chef Jereme Leung. This, all combined, makes a W Taipei something that perfectly represents Taiwan; spectacular, diverse and utterly surprising. This is a state-of-the-art hotel that still maintains an old-world charm.
CAESAR PARK HOTEL Kenting National Park is Taiwan’s very own tropical paradise, and there’s nowhere better to stay than at Caesar Park Hotel. Relax at the spa, swim a few laps in the beachfront swimming pool, walk along the seashore footpath, or sit back and relax with a good book on Hsiaowan beach. Caesar Park Hotel is a great retreat from the hustle and bustle of Taiwan’s cities. LOCATION The hotel stands opposite Kenting’s National Park in Hengchun Peninsula, at the southern tip of Taiwan. Kenting National Park is a vast space that stretches from mountains in the north to foothills in the south, with coral reefs, limestone caves and sandy seashores too. The Caesar Park Hotel is located just 20 minutes drive from Hengchum Airport. YOUR ROOM All rooms are bright, spacious, and relaxing with an elegant design. Rooms are either mountain or sea view facing, with bathrooms equipped with collapsible doors so that you can enjoy the views from the comforts of your bath. For a truly luxurious stay, rest your head in the Imperial Suite. A more than spacious room, the suite comes with a large lounge area with floor to ceiling windows looking out to sea and a bathroom equipped with a sauna, steam rooms and Jacuzzi. WHY WE LIKE IT Luxury living alongside dazzling terrain is exactly what we look for in our travels at Black Tomato. We particularly love the roof garden that meets the opulence of the indoors with the beauty of the natural outdoors, a perfect place for after dinner drinks by a sunset.
TAYIH LANDIS HOTEL Luxury living comes with expertise at the Tayih Landis. A chic, modern inside with a wealth of things to do on the outside; city hotels don’t come much better. The hotel’s heated indoor swimming pool, fitness centre and spa, offer you the ultimate relaxation alongside a long list of dining possibilities to satisfy your appetite in a moment. From its opulent marble lobby to the garden view from the hotel’s Presidential Suite, Tayih Landis is endlessly fabulous. LOCATION The hotel is located in the heart of Tainan, a city often described as the starting point of Taiwan’s history. With Koxinga Temple, Great South Gate, Century-Old Zhen Fa Tea Leaf Shop and Cheng Huang Temple all close to Tayih Landis, it’s a history waiting to be explored, Tainan is situated in the south west coast of Taiwan and beyond the city itself, the unusual flat coastline makes it a uniquely pretty location. YOUR ROOM Most of Tayih Landis’ 315 rooms are king-size and come with fantastic views, modern interior designing, a rainforest shower and coffee maker. The selection of rooms cater to a variety of desires. From urban to deluxe, each guest room is fitted with specific extras such as shoe shining services, or beauty treats from the spa to make your time a touch more special. We recommend the Trendy Room which, despite the name, is chic and classic, featuring a deluxe bathtub and the brilliantly thought up ‘welcome dessert’. WHY WE LIKE IT With incredible facilities, gourmet dining, attentive staff, a chic design and a great central location that’s just a stone’s throw away from some of Tainan’s best historical sites, what’s not to love?
ESCAPOLOGY Kenting National Park is located at the most southernly tip of Taiwan. It has the best weather in Taiwan, and is home to some stunning beaches. In comparison to the densely populated west coast, the national park is sparsely populated and features a relaxed, slower paced way of life – you can escape the madness of the cities, and gaze up the at the stars from one of the best locations on the island. On the other hand, if you feel like really exploring what is off the beaten track then the Pengu Islands are only a short boat journey away. The islands are flat and dry, offering a stark contrast to the main island.
BAISHA BEACH The beaches around Kenting National Park are the best in Taiwan, and therefore where many of the locals go on holiday. This can make beaches busy, which is why we recommend the secluded Baisha Beach. It is about 5km away from Kenting, and its name translates literally to “white sand”. It is tucked away from the crowds and you are allowed to have barbecues and camp on the beach too.
PENGHU ARCHIPELAGO Jibei Island in the Penghu Archipelago is often dubbed as “one of Asia’s best- kept secrets”. It is perfect for swimming and diving due to the coral surrounding the island. There is also one and a half kilometre sand bar that protrudes into the ocean – a truly spectacular sight, and even better when viewed from above. Hsi Island is completely unspoilt. It has many secluded coves, and also has an ancient fort which is well worth seeing, as on a very clear day it is possible to see China from the west coast, and Taiwan from the east coast of the island.
TAIWAN ON THE BIG SCREEN Beyond blissful temples and effervescent night markets, Taiwan’s culture scene thrives on an international scale. It is little known that this island has born some quite big names in the past few years, and is a country often returned to by its world famous populace. From Oscar winning filmmakers to presidential royalty, here are Taiwan’s cultural icons.
JASON WU The talented Jason Wu was born in Taipei, Taiwan and moved to Canada at the age of nine. A fashion designer with a strong following, Wu shot to worldwide fame when Michelle Obama wore a custom Jason Wu dress for her husband’s inauguration in 2010, and she has since continued to wear his designs. Wu has won international awards, and recently become the new artistic director of Boss womenswear. Wu is currently based in New York.
JAY CHOU Born in Taipei County, Jay Chou has been described as Asia’s answer to Michael Jackson. He is one of Asia’s most successful pop artists, and since his self-titled debut album in 2000 he has released one album per year (except 2009). He composes all of his own music, and has expanded his artistic skills by venturing into the world of directing, acting and television.
TAKESHI KANESHIRO Takeshi Kaneshiro is an actor born and raised in Taipei. He has featured in many Taiwanese films, and is an icon in the country. Kaneshiro started his career in Chinese TV entertainment, but has continued in the industry to become a film star. His notable roles are as the romantic lead in Zhang Yimou’s House of Flying Daggers, and as Zhang Wen-Xiang The War Lords. Kaneshiro has also acted as model and spokesman for a variety of companies, including Armani and Prada.
ANG LEE Ang Lee is somewhat a Taiwanese hero. Famous for directing Oscar and BAFTA awardwinning films such as “Life of Pi” and “Brokeback Mountain”, Lee is said to have bridged the gap between Eastern and Western film with his internationally acclaimed “Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon”. He has placed Taiwan on the map in the film industry, and notably shot the final moments of the captivating Life of Pi on Baisha Beach in Taiwan.
TIME FOR TEA
Something of a cultural institution, Tea has been an important part of Taiwanese life for centuries and can be found growing in every region and being sold at every market. Tea sets and tables are a common feature in Taiwanese homes, where guests can expect to be welcomed with warm greetings before being poured a delicious infusion of Oolong. Often likened to the wine tasting culture of the west, tea in Taiwan really is held in the highest regard. As you explore the country you’ll notice that traditional styled tea houses, where you’ll take your pick from green, black, oolong and bubble tea, to name a few, are everywhere. There are even traditional ceremonies that dictate the careful preparation and presentation of the teas. You might just have the best cup of tea of your life here.
EAT THE STREET Taiwan and food go hand in hand, no doubt about it. But there’s more to this cuisine than just the intrinsic ingredients and depth of flavours. It’s about getting out there and experiencing the food; through smelling, seeing, and feeling. And there’s no better place to do this than in the food markets. Bon appétit…
SHILIN NIGHT MARKET, TAPEI Taipei’s best known food market, Shilin, comes alive at night as thousands of visitors converge on its stalls, each of which specialises in its own dish. As well as jewellery, clothes and gadget stalls, dip into as much of the finger food as you can here. Some of the food vendors have been making and selling the same dish for decades, meaning they’ve got their speciality down to a finely crafted art. From the late afternoon to the wee small hours of the morning, the streets buzz with hungry school kids, workers looking for their evening meal and tourists taking in the heady mix of smells billowing from the stalls. We recommend trying the intricate and expertly prepared xiao long bao (dumplings); each dumpling has to have exactly 16 folds in it (accept no imitations) and is painstakingly prepared, soaking up all of the savoury goodness of the broth and waiting to give you a dose of authentic deep Taiwanese flavours. That’s one stall down, only another 500 or so more to go.
MIAOKOU NIGHT MARKET, KEELUNG Benefiting from its port Keelung’s Miaokou Night Market specialises in seafood, but that doesn’t mean you won’t be able to pick up your finger food favourites as well. Located near the famous Dianji temple from where the market gets its name (Miaokou means ‘temple entrance’), walk between the glowing rows of lanterns that give the market its bright authentic hum and begin your sampling stroll through the stalls. The atmosphere is fast and frenetic as hawkers implore you to buy, sit and eat in the fastest possible time; but don’t let them rush you it’s all just part of the night market atmosphere. This being Keelung, we have to recommend you to try the seafood. A lot of it will still be alive and is selected and cooked to order, so if you like your food fresh, it doesn’t get much better than this. Local specialties include stewed eel soup, scallop ball and even some less palatable delicacies like smoked whale shark and smoked fish glue. The choice is yours…
TAINAN FLOWER NIGHT MARKET Taiwan’s southern city’s largest and most famous night market, and certainly one of the busiest, the Tainan Flower Night Market is little to do with flowers and much more to do with that Taiwanese obsession, food. Try Tainan’s famous ‘coffin toast’ which is essentially a whopping big piece of toast, cut open and filled with a creamy corn sauce. There are also lots of other fillings to choose from if you want something a little more exciting than creamy corn (we love it though). Other food specialities come in the shape of spicy duck blood, candied guava and bubble tea. There are also lots of gaming stalls, so dust off those pinball skills or shoot hoops against your friends while digesting that illadvised fourth serving of duck blood. Remember though, that unlike other markets, the Tainan Flower Night Market isn’t everyday; come along on Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays to find the busy bustle of the market. If you are actually looking for a real flower market, the Nanmen Weekend Flower Market is open Saturdays and Sundays and sells all manner of flowers and plants, with a specialisation in orchids and banzai trees.
LIUHE NIGHT MARKET, KAOHSIUNG Food, clothes, knives, gadgets and even live animals, Kaohsiung’s Liuhe Night Market is a bit of an allrounder. Seafood abounds, with squid, crab and caviar known as the local favourites. Another favourite here, and throughout Taiwan, is stinky tofu. The stinky tofu gets its reputation from being fermented in a special marinade for a few months, and while it may be stinky, the flavour can be compared to a mild blue cheese. Legend goes, the stinkier the tofu, the more smooth and delicious the taste. What’s more, locals in the market for a new pet come here to find new furry friends. Whether it’s a cat, a dog or a monkey, it is their choice. Make sure to get to the market relatively early because it can get very busy here in the late evening.
HUASI STREET MARKET, TAPEI Back to Taipei we go to sample another of the city’s famous night markets. Nicknamed, worryingly, ‘Snake Alley’, Huaxi Street Market is famous all over Taiwan for its daring snake delicacies. Although nowadays there are vendors that serve dishes that are more recognisable (like burgers and sushi), the snake vendors still treat customers to the ritual preparing of the snake. First, the snakes are displayed by the snake charmer, making the snakes dance to his tune, and then the animal is cut open and cooked to order. As well as staples like snake stew, you’ll also be able to sample some other snaky snacks where they don’t let any of the slithering reptile go to waste: down shots of snake blood mixed with alcohol, snake semen, and snake bile, to name a few. If this isn’t quite the culinary experience you were hoping for, Huaxi Street’s other specialities include eel noodles and shrimp in wine for flavours that your palette is probably more used to.
BEST RESTAURANTS Despite influences from across the waters, Taiwan is a country alive with flavours all of its own. The main focus of Taiwanese food is freshness, lightness and craftsmanship. Think delicate dumplings, artfully handcrafted into 18 folds, steaming up flavours of pork, shrimp or truffle. Think noodle soups with delicate, refreshing flavours and a silky texture. Think the birthplace of sticky rice cakes (Mochi), rice noodles and bubble tea. Think names from stinky tofu to sun cakes. Think the steam rising from a night market as it cooks up an array of aromatic dishes for a happy crowd. Now taste Taiwan.
HUNAN, LONDON Chef Peng serves up a cuisine strong with Taiwanese influences at Hunan, London. No menu here, instead you tell the waiters what food you don’t like and your preferred level of spice, and you leave the rest to them. Think surprise Taiwanese tapas with fabulous wines and you’re somewhat close to what this long time critically acclaimed restaurant has on offer.
SAINT’S ALP TEAHOUSE, NYC Saint’s Alp Teahouse takes pride in specialising in the traditional Taiwanese drink bubble tea. The country’s favourite drink is made from a tea base, mixed with fruit or milk, and chewy tapioca balls. As well as their expertise in creating bubble teas, the teahouse also serves a variety of delicious noodle soups, speciality dishes and appetizers.
DIN TAI FUNG, TAIWAN From steamed dumplings to noodle soups, Din Tai Fung is an absolute must-eat during your stay in Taiwan. Originally a cooking oil business, Din Tai Fung has become internationally renowned for bringing delicious Taiwanese cuisine to the world. Come here for classic dishes done to perfection.
MOJO ICUISINE, TAIPEI A Taipei treasure of high tech, ultra modern style, place your order in Mojo Icuisine where futuristic purple pods float above each table to project touch screen menus. These also remember your preferences and make suggestions for your next meal or drink according to your choices. And the food is also intriguingly high tech, with a concoction of western, Asian and a generous dash of molecular gastronomy for good measure.
RECIPE Chef Peng ‘s Pan Fried Chicken with Chinese Red Miso Crust INGREDIENTS
METHOD
3 chicken thighs trimmed, deboned, flattened and thinly sliced along the grain into flat pieces with skin on.
Take out 2 cubes of fermented red bean curd and in a bowl crush with a fork. Leaving aside the garlic flakes, spring onion and red chilli, add the other ingredients.
MARINADE
Adjust the marinade using the oil and wine so it is of a liquid consistency and not too thick.
2 cubes of fermented red bean curd Pinch of sugar Garlic water Splash of soy sauce Splash of Chinese rice wine Splash of sesame oil Rehydrated crushed garlic flakes Finely sliced spring onion Finely sliced red chilli
Then marinade the chicken over night in the fridge. Heat a wok on high heat until smoking, add a liberal amount of oil to coat the whole wok, and turn down the heat. From here pour off any excess oil and fry the chicken; keeping it skin side down cook until the chicken is brown and crisp around the edges. Using tongs turn the thighs over and repeat the process on the other side. When finished, drain any excess oil from the thighs onto kitchen paper. Wipe down the wok, heat until smoking once more and stir fry the garlic, chilli and spring onion. Add the chicken and toss. Then, simply plate up and serve.