6
1
2
Shot by Kerry Brown in Auckland over the weekend of 27-28 February 2016. With thanks to Jos Wheeler, Matt B
Benns for Stephen Marr, Josie Wignall & Lili Shine for M.A.C. and Shirley Simpson
|
www.workshop.co.nz
3
6
7
www.badthingsapparel.com 8
9
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
Products available at Stephen Marr salons Products www.sansceuticals.com available at Stephen Marr salons www.sansceuticals.com
20
We are now a salon beautifully sustainable hair colour and care designed and made in Italy dedicated to encouraging people to take care of themselves the environment and the things they love.
rydersalon.com
21
A creative space to make your mark.
Issue #6 of BLKonBLK is the first Black issue of our 10th Anniversary year. Whilst we launched Issue #1 of the print editions in 2006 we also launched a MySpace site which quickly gathered 23,000 followers, which was a large MySpace presence at the time. We knew then that our magazine, brand and kaupapa (purpose, agenda) had broad appeal and would traslate very well to digital/online. As early adopters of social media we have moved seamlessly onto Facebook and other social media platforms since. In 2013 we launched BLKonBLK, our first significant web presence, although our blog, Blacklog, already had a considerable following in both Aotearoa and Australia which soon spread to Asia and worldwide. We also launched our first digital magazine BLKOnBLK #1 at the same time and not long after a collaborative digital magazine with the United Nation’s ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative called ‘The Hand of Fashion’. To date our digital magazines have amassed just over 50,000 ‘views’ and just over 3 million ‘impressions’ on the digital magazine platform, Issuu. In 2016, one of our key initiatives is ‘fluid content’, content created by our global teams that is shared fluidly within our digital/online infrastructure. The first example of this is the section at the front of this issue; Black Star, essentially a melding of two sections we have been running at the front of Black Magazine for several years now - Black Market and 24
elements of Blacklist. As well as appearing here in BLKon BLK we will also run these stories on our website, Facebook and other social media. Another feature of this issue is the raft of next generation talent appearing in these pages; from our art director, 18 year-old Nina Van Lier to the Mermaidens, a fantastic band from Wellington, teen West Auckland artist/photographer/blogger Gabrielle Stoddard, Auckland trash queens Drew Blood and Busty Springfield present the new face of drag and then, gender-neutral brand Modern Manners’ founders Liam Sharma and Ewan Prathan. The Kids are more than All Right. This plethora of young local creatives coming through warms our hearts here at Black as these ‘kids’ are into art, fashion, music, photography, literature, films, causes and ethical, sustainable practises - reality TV and the thin veneer of trashy celebrity is not part of their oeuvre. Please do enjoy this free issue of BLKonBLK. Rachael and Grant x
25
STAR 30. Cats Attack 32. Modern Millicent 33. Earn Your Stripes 34. My Muse 35. Got A New Rose 36. Chop Chop 37. Imitation of Life 38. Star Struck 40. Poolside Perfection
LIST 44. Jess Gold 53. Duckie 48. Mermaidens 50. GgabrielleS 54. Modern Manners 58. Busty Springfield
BEAUTY 66. I made you, you made me. 79. We Real Cool 90. Man I Used To Be
FASHION 102. How We Be 116. Goodnight London 126. The Shadow of Heaven 136. When They Fight They Fight 158. To Let Myself Go 164. Ladies & Gentlemen, We Are Floating in Space 190. Door to the Cosmos 198. Fish out of Water 220. I Know Why The Caged Bird Sings 238. Special 248. Now is Tomorrow 256. Arms of a Woman 260. The Supers 26
27
6 Photography: RIBAL HOSN at Vivien’s Creative. Fashion editors: RIBAL HOSN and JUSTIN HENRY. Hair and Make-up: JUSTIN HENRY at Vivien’s Creative using Makeupforever Cosmetics and Kevin.Murphy hair styling products. Model: DUCKIE at Pride Models Duckie wears: Beanie by Strateas.Carlucci
28
6 Photography: RIBAL HOSN at Vivien’s Creative. Fashion editors: RIBAL HOSN and JUSTIN HENRY. Hair and Make-up: JUSTIN HENRY at Vivien’s Creative using Makeupforever Cosmetics and Kevin. Murphy hair styling products. Model: JESSICA GOLD at Maverick Models. Jess wears: Shirt by Strateas.Carlucci
29
Publishers, Co-Editors-in-Chief Grant Fell & Rachael Churchward grant@blackmagazine.co.nz rachael@blackmagazine.co.nz Creative Director/Fashion Director Rachael Churchward Art Director/Designer Nina Van Lier nina@blackmagazine.co.nz Beauty Director Rachael Churchward Australian Editor Justin Henry @Vivien’s Creative Senior Beauty Editor Australia/ New Zealand Justin Henry @Vivien’s Creative Hair Editor NZ Greg Murrell @ Ryder Salon New York Editor Valery Gherman @ art-dept NY New York Fashion Editor Thistle Brown UK Editor/UK Fashion Editor Sara Dunn Australian Fashion Editors Sarah Birchley Samara Wilson Editor-at-large Paul Empson Online Editors Grant Fell Rachael Churchward Nina Van Lier
Writers Grant Fell, Rachael Churchward, Justin Henry, Carlisle Cook Photographers David K.Shields, Stephen Langmanis, Ribal Hosn, Cybele Malinowski, Tintin Hedberg, Charles Howells, Michelle Beatty, Carolyn Haslett, Russell Kleyn, Veronika Gulyaveva, Nina Van Lier, Frances Carter, Liam Sharma, Gabrielle Stoddard Fashion Editors Rachael Churchward, Sara Dunn, Sarah Birchley, Sophie Barker, Jane Mow, Kendra McCarthy, Justin Henry, Ribal Hosn, Blake Sutherland, Ethan Butler. Hair & Make-up Artists and Manicurists Justin Henry, Sofia Sjoo, John Chapman, Yin Lee, Lillie Lindh, Chris Coonrod, Jess Chapman, Isabella Schimid, Carolyn Haslett, Shirley Simpson, Phoebe Watt, Matthias Ryder Te Moananui, Lydia Mahon, Ashley Holt, Candce Cole, Katie Berrett, Bella McNabb, Kaleb Pritchard. Intern: Paris Taylor Thanks to: The Churchward and Fell families for your support as always, ditto; Karen and Avril, David Shields, Russ, Al and Jules, Sherry Roberts, Heta Hudson, Catriona Knapp and Zora Bell Boyd. The print version of Black Magazine is published bi-annually (June and November) by: BLK NZ LTD P.O.Box 68-259 Newton, Auckland, New Zealand Ph: + 64 9 817 9601 www.blackmagazine.co.nz www.facebook.com/Blackmagnz www.twitter.com/blackmagazine www.vimeo.com/blackmagazine Instagram: @black_mag Subscriptions managed by iSubscribe
Advertising Grant Fell: +64 21 407 248 E: grant@blackmagazine.co.nz Rachael Churchward: +64 21 373330 E: rachael@blackmagazine.co.nz
30
The views expressed in BLKonBLK are not necessarily those of the publishers and editors. We do NOT accept unsolicited submissions.
REDISCOVER THE ART REDISCOVER THE ART OF THE BLOW-DRY
OF THE BLOW-DRY YOUR HAIR ASSISTANT
Conceived and designed by Angelo Seminara YOUR HAIR ASSISTANT
Conceived and designed by Angelo Seminara
CARBON NEUTR AL PACK AGING
AVAIL ABLE EXCLUSIVELY THROUGH BOUTIQUE BR ANDS // 0800 25 25 30
AVAIL ABLE EXCLUSIVELY THROUGH
31
STAR 33
In the mid 70s a fantastic creature called Soo Catwoman became an important and very close part of the Sex Pistol’s anarchic machine, she was definitley a favourite of Johnny Rotten. Her meticulously drawn cat’s eye make-up was her signature and quickly became legendary with punk luminaries such as Vivienne Westwood and Siouxsie Sioux who, in particular, followed her eyeliner lead to a T. Photography, hair and make-up: Carolyn Haslett Fashion Editor: Rachael Churchward Model: Libby at Unique Models wears NOM*d. Make-up assist: Phoebe Watt EYES: M.A.C Superslick Liquid Eye Liner in ‘On the Hunt’. LIPS: M.A.C Lipstick in ‘Ruby Woo’ mixed with Lipstick in ‘Hang-up’.
34
35
Reba Reba! The legendary Australian footwear brand R.M. Williams has released the 2016 Millicent, a Cuban heel-inspired/needle toe boot built with typical R. M Williams quality and integrity. Founded in 1932 by the almost-mystical R.M.Williams (“an explorer, pastoralist, horseman, stockman, stonemason, leather craftsman, goldminer, wellsinker, author, businessman and historian – excelling at all, and more”; according to the company’s website). Photography: Nina Van Lier. Leg model: Rachael Churchward wears R.M Williams ‘Millicent’ boots.
36
Danish brand Barbara I Gongini originates from the Faroe Islands, which is a self-governing group of 18 rocky, volcanic islands closer to Iceland than Denmark. Despite the fact the islands themselves are connected by road tunnels, ferries, causeways and bridges and are in close-ish proximity to Norway and Iceland, they are a long way from the fashion capitals of the world which perhaps explains the ethos and production processes of this unique brand; traditionally tailored, artistically responsible, and substainable practices are paramount as you would expect from people of island settler ancestry. The new collection is available fromThe Shelter now. Photography, hair and make-up: Carolyn Haslett Fashion Editor: Ethan Butler. Make-up assist: Phoebe Watt Model: Jade at Unique Models wears: Barabara I Gongini ‘Exhale’ dress, ‘Scorch’ jacket and ‘Ore’ trousers.
37
Françoise Gilot, Lee Miller, Camille Claudel, Helga Testorf, Jacqueline Roque, Ada Del Moro, Dora Maar, Margit ...’A Muse’, Kate Sylvester’s Spring Summer 2016 collection celebrates the muse in all her complexity, strength, style, beauty and eccentricity - all inspired by Picasso’s painterly portrayal of the muse. Photography, hair and make-up: Carolyn Haslett. Fashion Editors: Rachael Churchward and Ethan Butler. Model: Jade at Unique Models wears Kate Sylvester ‘Nina’ top, ‘Simone’ skirt and ‘Muse’ broach worn around neck.
38
The dictionary meaning of ‘Brocade’ is “a class of richly decorative shuttle-woven fabrics, often made in coloured silks and with or without gold and silver threads.” Neuw’s richly decorative ‘Brocade Bomber’, paired here with the kick-ass ‘Lexi’ slim-straight jean creates, we think, a perfect casual-luxe outfit. Photography, hair and make-up: Carolyn Haslett. Fashion Editor: Rachael Churchward. Model: Jade at Unique Models wears Neuw as above.
39
17 years after she first launched it, Isabel Marant’s diffusion line Étoile is going stronger than ever and continues to effortlessly embody chic Parisian style with a sense of bohemia. Perfect for a sunny autumn day up in the Waitakere ranges as well. Photography, hair and make-up: Carolyn Haslett Fashion Editor: Rachael Churchward Make-up assist: Phoebe Watt. Model: Jade at Unique Models wears Isabel Marant Étoile Carlo S/S Sweatshirt, Isabel Marant Etoile Jan Leatherette Trouser, Marc by Marc Jacobs Isabella Lace Blouse and Tech Flip Flop, all instore now at Workshop.
40
Like a sylph (mythologicl spirit of the air) who has descended into the forest, the NOM*d girl wearing the latest R.E.M Collection, which features several label signature pieces (coats, bombers, wrap skirts, jumpers and dress pants) like all NOM*d collections is both ethereal and a little bit punk. Photography and illustration: NIna Van Lier. Fashion Editor: Rachael Churchward Hair and make-up: Phoebe Watt using M.A.C Cosmetics. Model: Amy at Red 11 Models wears NOM*d ‘Nefas’ sweater and ‘Check Wrap’ skirt.
41
Karen Walker comes across all starry-eyed with her latest collection ‘Star City’. The ‘Solar Flare’ skirt in this image coupled with ‘Cosmodrome’ jumper, necklace and socks makes for a look which is more than just a roadside attraction. Photography: Nina Van Lier. Fashion Editor: Rachael Churchward. Hair and Make-up: Phoebe Watts using M.A.C. Cosmetics. Model: Amy Tomlinson at Red 11 Models wears Karen Walker as above.
42
What doesn’t happen beside the pool in Hollywood is not worth talking about, which is why many of Hollywood’s elite will likely soon be wearing Karen Walker Eyewear’s new Hollywood Pool Sky Blue frames before diving in. This image, fashion editor Ethan Butler combines the eyewear with Karen Walker Aleksey bomber and a Karen Walker Jewellery Runaway cuff worn as choker. Photography,/graphics: Nina Van Lier Fashion Editor: Ethan Butler H&M: Phoebe Watt using M.A.C. Cosmetics Model: Amy Tomlinson at Red 11 wears Karen Walker as above.
43
44
LIST
“BLACK, LEATHER, SKIRT/PANTS, BALENCIAGA LEATHER JACKET,” MELBOURNE MODEL AND CO-COVER GIRL FOR THIS ISSUE IS JESS GOLD AT MAVERICK MODELS BUT RATHER THAN MOTORCYCLE CHIC SHE POSSIBLY PREFERS HIP- HOP AND BIG FASHION, IN FACT KEEPING IT COMFY BUT COOL RULES - AS LONG AS IT IS NOT ‘FRILLY AND GIRLY’. Photography: Ribal Hosn at Vivien’s Creative. Hair and Make-up: Justin Henry at Vivien’s Creative using Makeupforever Cosmetics and Kevin.Murphy hair styling products. Fashion editors: Ribal Hosn and Justin Henry.
Where are you from where is home to you? Macedon, outside of Melbourne, now I travel and live between USA and Europe. Did you always want to be in the fashion industry as a model? I was not interested until I was 18 How would you describe your style? Relaxed, boots or sneakers generally wearing black and adding something a little different/cool, I tend not to follow any rules. Style icon/inspiration ? Abbey Lee Kershaw and Sasha Pivovarova. What’s your go to night time look? Black, leather, skirt/pants something random to mix it up!! I like to put pieces together based around 90’s rock but also chic. Something you always carry with you when travelling? I can’t live without lip balm and head phones!! Most prized fashion possession? Balenciaga leather jacket. Lusting after? An amazing designer vintage piece, I’m
46
yet to find. Style pet Peeve? To much frills and girly Favorite accessory? Mania Mania Amethyst ring and a really cool vintage shirt bargain find of 1 euro! Number one style advice for a model on the move? Comfy but cool Music you’re listening to right now? I’m very much a hip hop person, love to listen to it especially when I work out! Travis Scott, Future, Drake, Weeknd, Kanye, Fetty Wap and also old school. Beyoncé is amazing!! Moving around for work makes having a schedule difficult so how do you stay fit when you’re away from home? There is always somewhere to run and walk great way to see a new city. Jumprope is a killer cardio workout when limited with space. Ultimate dream job? To front a high fashion perfume campaign and work with Steven Klein or Peter Lindbergh.
47
48
DUCKIE, REAL NAME NYADAK THOT SHOT TO FAME IWHEN SHE FEATURED NOTABLY ON THE 3RD CYCLE OF AUSTRALIA’S NEXT TOP MODEL. THE SOUTH SUDANESE-AUSTRALIANMODEL HAS SINCE DEVELOPED INTO ONE OF AUSTRALIA’S MOST ‘FOLLOWED’ AND PROBABLY, LOVED, MODELS. Photography: Ribal Hosn at Vivien’s Creative. Hair and Make-up: Justin Henry at Vivien’s Creative using Makeupforever Cosmetics and Kevin.Murphy hair styling products.
Where are you from where is home to you? I was born and raised in Melbourne Australia but my background is South Sudanese. I’ve haven’t been to Sudan before due to the war so Melbourne is and has been home for me. Did you always want to be in the fashion industry as a model? Yes. Watching my sister Nikki model in my early teenage years was where it all started. I use to always crash her shoots and be so intrigued by the idea of all these creatives coming together to get a single frame, it blew my mind. How would you describe your style I either look homeless (yeezy style) or like I just stepped off a runway, there is no in between with me. Style icon/inspiration ? I’d have to say Margaret Zhang. That woman has one hell of a wardrobe! She’s an all rounder and a perfect role model in the fashion industry today What’s your go to night time look? lbd, you really can’t get that one wrong. It saves me every time my closet decides to be difficult Something you always carry with you when you travel ? My notebook. I love to write when I can. I don’t usually have time so when I travel it’s that book and a pen that has my full attention Most prized fashion possession? My collection of Vogue magazines from the 90’s Lusting after??
Next episode of Game of Thrones. Style pet Peeve? A terrible clashing coloured bra strap. This is a big no no ladies, please don’t do it. Favorite accessory? I know it sounds cheesy but a smile can go a long way. I think it’s extremely important to make others feel as comfortable as possible Number one style advice for a model on the move? This is where I like to have fun! Keep it simple but still sport the ‘I’m a model and I know it’ look. I personally think looking like a model off set is equally as important when you’re on the job. If you remember that you’ll be fine! Music you’re listening to right now? Lemonade by Beyoncè. Let’s talk about that. Moving around for work makes having a schedule difficult so how do you stay fit when you’re away from home? 100% it gets hard to always make room during the day for the gym with such a busy schedule. That’s when I have to stay on top of my diet alongside a million and one small workouts to do when I get off the job. Ultimate dream job? Working in South Sudan to help rebuild the youngest nation in the world to it’s prime that it should rightfully be. Duckie Official Instagram
49
When did Mermaidens form? Lily and I went to high school together but only started sharing our music in 7th form. I’ve known Abe, our drummer since I was around 15 – we used to go on missions to the dump shop and find cool shit. After much procrastination and talking about jamming we finally joined forces and started writing as a group. That was about 3 years ago. Who plays what and what brand of instrument do you play? I (Gussie) play guitar and sing. I usually play a pretty funny looking Tokai Hummingbird – it’s a Japanese made guitar from 1966. Lily plays bass and sings. She plays a nice Fender jazz bass. Abe plays drums and he will hit whatever drum-like thing he can get his hands on. How do you go about writing songs? Do you write as a group or is there a principal songwriter? It’s a combination of the two really. I’m always writing riffs, melodies and lyrics in my own time and I know Lily does too. Usually our jams start from a guitar or vocal line or even a weird sound we’re digging…the process
50
is forever changing, but we always finish writing songs together. Listening to ‘Undergrowth’, which I love btw, I hear some of my favourite post punk bands as potential influences; Siouxsie and The Banshees, Bauhaus, Killing Joke, The Cure, Tones on Tail, Virgin Prunes, Echo and the Bunnymen as well as some of Flying Nun’s finest; Look Blue Go Purple, The Clean, The Terminals, Jay Clarkson – all bands have influences but do you have any major influences – one more so than any other? Thanks, I’m glad you like the record. Each of us actually has pretty different tastes when it comes to music! It’s quite funny really… I’m into riff driven guitar bands ranging from 60’s and 70’s bands like Coven and Black Sabbath, and I also really like a lot of new psych/garage that’s coming out like Ty Segall and King Gizzard and The Lizard Wizard. We’re all into US post-punk stuff like Slint, Duster and Fugazi. There are definitely some bands that Lily and I were into in a big
WELLINGTON THREE-PIECE MERMAIDENS UNLEASHED THEIR DARK, SPIKY, SOMETIMES-DELICATE, SOMETIMES-PUMPING MUSIC ON THE WORLD THREE YEARS AGO. IN MARCH THIS YEAR THE THREE; GUSSIE LARKIN, LILI WEST AND ABE HOLLINGSWORTH RELEASED THEIR DEBUT ALBUM ‘UNDERGROWTH’, AN ASSURED POST PUNK- SOUNDING GEM. GRANT FELL TALKS TO GUSSIE ABOUT BEING TAGGED THE WHOLE GAMUT OF GENRES FROM ‘ALTERNATIVE’ TO ‘DARK WITCH ROCK’. PHOTO: RUSSELL KLEYN
way as teenagers such as Warpaint, Jeff Buckley, PJ Harvey and Patti Smith of course. It’s a random mix of influences. The first song on ‘Undergrowth’ is called ‘Under the Mountain’. Have you read Maurice Gee’s legendary NZ book of the same name’? Or seen the film or TV series? I’ve seen the film and little bits of the TV series. I haven’t read the book but I do love Maurice Gee. I don’t think Lily, who penned the lyrics meant for there to be any connection. But the association is cool. One of our friends said, “Every band has a mountain song”. This is ours! On your bandcamp page you are tagged as; ‘alternative’ ‘dark’ ‘rock’ ‘dream surf’ ‘psych pop’ ‘witch’ and ‘undersea’ not to mention ‘dark witch rock’ - which of these do you think best describes the band. That’s quite a confusing mix of words isn’t it?! I think if you ask any band to describe what their “sound” is they will have no idea, or will just throw all sorts of words out there. I guess that’s what we’ve done here! All of those words describe the band as best as
each other. I couldn’t pick one. Where did you record Undergrowth? Who produced/ engineered? We recorded with James Goldsmith at his studio, Blue Barn. James is a good friend of ours and understands what we’re about so it was a really fun experience. Top Ten favourite current songs: Whatever - the Beths Bomber - Fortunes Earth - Follakzoid Boy Candy - Kip Mcgrath Sweet Jelly Roll – The Altered Hours The Stalker – Sunflower Bean Breakfast Edge – Ty Segall The Bitter Boogie – King Gizzard and the Lizard Wizard 6 AM – Electric Eye Cowboys and Indians – The Smoke Mermaidens Bandcamp page here Mermaidens Facebook page here
51
52
THERE IS NO DOUBT THAT A NEW GENERATION OF CREATIVE KIDS ARE ON THEIR WAY THROUGH AND WE HAVE FOUND THAT, IN AUCKLAND AT LEAST, THIS IS PARTICULARLY TRUE IN WEST AUCKLAND WHERE SCHOOLS LIKE GREEN BAY HIGH SCHOOL AND WESTERN SPRINGS COLLEGE ARE FOSTERING A NUMBER OF MULTI-MEDIA, MULTI-TALENTED ARTISTS. GRANT FELL MEETS ONE SUCH PERSON, GABRIELLE STODDARD; BLOGGER, ARTIST, PHOTOGRAPHER AND FASHION AFICIONADO. PHOTO (LEFT): NINA VAN LIER.
What is your name and how would you describe what you do? Hi, I’m Gabrielle (Gabby) and I run an independent blog which goes under the name of ‘ggabrielles’. I share original blog series, a range of photography, and everything and anything that inspires me. The focus of my blog is to connect with my audience and advertise that being different and finding your true passions are important values. When did you start ggabrielles? I have been running my blog for a little over 3 years now! It was first named ‘Delicatebeaute’ which I changed to ‘ggabrielles’. The change was for obvious reasons; I wanted it to be more personal and something that related to me a lot more. I officially started my blog on April 12th 2014 and In the space of 2 years I think there is a noticeable change in my content and focus. For me, my blog was much more than just a girly Tumblr blog (I used to enjoy that years ago!) It has always been a place where I can be extroverted about my thoughts and feelings and discover a voice for myself. It has become more like a coping mechanism in terms of learning to accept myself and how to understand the social norms that are destructive towards youth. Aside from your first loves of photography and illustration you are also heavily into live music and
photographing gigs and musicians in general – who do you do that for and what sort of shows/events have you covered? The AA ( All ages ) Music scene in NZ has been something I have invested a lot of time in. Mainly influenced by my obsessive music listening habits and interests and also the fact that I’m surrounded with so many friends who are involved in bands and music. I think we are lucky in Auckland to have a strong AA scene and there are plenty of gigs and events that cater for under 18yr olds. I have been attending gigs for a few years and realised that music photography is something I find both challenging and fascinating. I started taking my camera along to all the gigs/concerts/festivals/events I would attend and developed my skill and passion for, in turn, capturing the passion and value for music that the people involved in these events display. I cover all of my local AA gigs and small concerts and festivals either working for myself or for a band or artist that is playing and also sometimes for a website or company. I have worked with Zeal, Under The Radar, ‘Peachy Keen’ mag plus of course a few bands and artists. Talk us through the ‘Photographic’ Series and ‘Bands of Auckland’ series you have been running on your site – how long have you been doing each and who has been included? ‘Photographic Series’ is a new
53
54
All photos Gabrielle Stoddard
series to my blog where I accept public photography submissions from my readers. I ask for a group of photographs that have some connection and also a description about the chosen works. The message of this series was to show the diversity that photography has to each individual and how representative it is to a singular perspective. I currently have one published which came from a young photographer Theo Richards who summited a beautiful collection of black and white images which go under the series name of “Cut and Spray”. I have many more to include and I look forward to publishing them. ‘Bands of Auckland’ series is also another series on my blog that I have been expanding for quite a few months now. I interview bands specifically in Auckland and ask them a series of questions + photograph them. I ask them about how they feel about the music culture they are surrounded by and also advice they can give to others wanting to experience working in the music industry. Bands featured in this series have been; Yukon Era, Charlie Freak, Host Club, Courtney Hate and a whole lot more! Its really nice to try to expand acknowledgement of local Aucklanders/New Zealanders about talent that may not be discovered yet. Being able to meet my interviewees shows me that there is a lot of talent hidden in every corner. This series has currently been focusing on bands in Auckland but
in the future I can’t wait to possibly include single musicians,artists,photographers, creators etc and hopefully cover more locations. In the last issue of BLKonBLK we featured a story on the ‘Peachy Keen’ girls. tHe magazine you mentioned earlier. You are a regular contributor to the mag and sites – tell us about that? The ‘Peachy Keen’ girls are all individually special and influential on my life and I’m lucky to call them all close friends of mine. Their success with this wonderful creation of theirs is all so exciting and I’ve been honoured to accompany them for some fun shoots and be a regular contributor to their monthly mag! Us girls have shared a lot of ideas and future collaborations and its been really nice to share artistic aspirations with them and follow out our unique ideas. As you say, you are also a regular contributor to ‘Under The Radar’ – one of the most respected music sites in NZ. Again, tell us about that. What do you contribute? Early 2015 I enquired about expanding my music photography interests and contacted numerous music sites/companies that could potentially offer me some experience. Under The Radar got back to me with an opportunity and offered me some photography experience. I then covered the Ageold 2015 event for them which was quite uplifting. Since
55
Photo by Karin Yamasaki, Illustration by Gabrielle Stoddard.
56
then I have been asked to photograph international acts which seems somewhat unreal! They have been so approachable and comforting to work with, even though I haven’t done an awful lot just yet. I am still in contact and am shoot when an opportunity arrises. Since I haven’t reached 18yrs of age Im just waiting for my entry to R18 gigs which I’m sure will provide me with more work experience. Prior to working with UTR I have worked with Zeal shooting for numerous music events and a variety of small bands. I am grateful for any opportunity weather it is large or small it helps me grow closer to my goals and aspirations I want to pursue in the future. Are you a proud Westie? For sure! The serene environment supports my individualistic personality needs (ENFJ , Enneagram 4 ). I enjoy the division I have with the bustling city because I tend to spend a lot of my time in central areas. “West is best.” A champion op-shopper? My Mum is! Without a doubt. If my mum can basically thrift-shop half of my closet, including a formal 100% silk ball dress for only $8 then I think she’s an absolute winner! This is our tenth anniversary year of publishing so we are asking some of our interview subjects for their ‘Top Tens’ Ten favourite places to buy clothes? 1. Go Jo’s, New Lynn 2. Recycle Boutique 3. Nasty Gal 4. Grandparents/parents/friends wardrobes 5. Magic Hollow Boutique
6. Stolen GirlFriends Club 7. Tatty’s 8. Lonely Hearts 9. O Mighty 10. Urban Outfitters Ten favourite artists/illustrators? 1. Petra Collins - Photographer 2.Gia Coppola - Film maker/Director 3. Imogen Wilson - Photographer 4. Ben Giles - Artist 5. Jenn Mann - Painter 6. Tavi Gavinson - Writer/Editor/Actress 7. Henrietta Harris - Artist 8. Piet Mondrain - Artist 9. Duane Michals - Photographer 10. Wes Anderson - Director/Film maker Top ten tunes of the moment? 1. How - Daughter 2. Just like Heaven - The Cure 3. Dunes - Alabama Shakes 4. Embody - Frankie Cosmo 5. Where is my mind?- Pixies 6. Shalala - Moses Gun Collectives 7. Reel - Fazerdaze 8. Fine - Ty Segall 9. Don’t come home today - Good Morning 10. Lead Existence - King Krule Gabrielle’s Blog Here
57
58
IN A RELATIVELY SHORT SPACE OF TIME MODERN MANNERS AKA LIAM SHARMA AND EWAN PRATHAN HAVE SHAPED THEIR ST KEVIN’S ARCADE-BASED GENDERNEUTRAL LABEL INTO A BRAND THAT MANY YOUNG NEW ZEALANDERS - AND MANY MORE OVERSEAS, ASPIRE TO. GRANT FELL TALKS TO LIAM SHARMA ABOUT GROWING UP A SHARMA, AND THE CREATIVE, ARTISTIC COMMUNITY THEY HOPE TO BUILD. PHOTO OPPOSITE: NINA VAN LIER
Kia ora Liam Hey, Grant! Who is Modern Manners? Modern Manners is Ewan Prathan and myself. We do everything between ourselves and we don’t designate set titles/roles for each other. Instead, we fill the holes in each other’s skill set and ultimately this creates Modern Manners. When did you start? Modern Manners started on the 17/05/15 as a gender-neutral brand! We are about to hit our one year anniversary very soon and that’s incredibly exciting for us! How would you describe MM. A collective, a business, designers? Modern Manners is a very realistic gender-neutral clothing brand. We never design anything that can’t be worn by both males and females and we also think about people’s comfort zones. We want our target market to be as big as possible and in every collection we have a range of eccentric styles and then very neutral, basic everyday pieces. Modern Manners is a community, a movement. We are also taking a new approach to branding, as we believe that connecting with customers on a more personal level will cement our place better within this very saturated industry. There are two designers to this business and we really are listening to our friends and customers and filling their requests! We believe including as many people in the design process and listening to what the public wants to see, creates the best collections. We
always make mistakes and that is so key for us. We learn what works best for us and what doesn’t and then we grow. Our motto has always been; from little things, bigger things grow. Liam you are a part of a famous Auckland fashion family, the Sharmas (De Vere textiles, Ruby and of course both of your sisters Emily and Anna-Lise are involved in the family businesses. What did you learn growing up as a Sharma, that has helped you at MM do you think? I wouldn’t be where I am in this industry without them; however, I always do feel a bit “in their shadows”! It is incredibly hard not to. From a young age I learnt about this industry in depth, family dinner conversations quite often were revolved around fashion and the dynamics of any business. It’s my family’s passion and it’s not something I’m trying to force myself into either. I am exactly where I want to be, something about creating a product I can put my name towards inspires me every day. My sister Anna-lise teaches me so much about branding and Emily is incredibly talented with the design aspects of any business. I really do have the best of both worlds in that sense. I learn a lot about success and failure through my parents, I learnt from their mistakes and every day I learn from their advice. Not only has it helped me with MM but they all have a part to play in creating MM. I’m so lucky I have someone at midnight
59
All photos by Liam Sharma
60
“K .RD IS SUCH A UNIQUE STREET AND IT IS SO COMPLETELY DIFFERENT FROM PONSONBY JUST AROUND THE CORNER, WE REALIZED THIS VERY QUICKLY AND THAT’S WHY WE STARTED DISPLAYING YOUNG ARTISTS WORK AND DOING EVENTS LIKE FREE TATTOOS IN STORE.”
to call when I’ve hit what I think is an unclimbable wall. There is always one of them to give me a shoulder or two to stand on. I believe (from the outside) that you have a very clear-cut desire to surround yourself with as many free-thinking creatives as you can – a sentiment we share. You have shown this to be the case with a number of collabs. Tell us more about that. Creating a community is key for us. Modern Manners we believe should always be more than just Ewan and I. Including as many people as possible gives us more of an approachable tone. We have created what some might call an exhibition within our flagship store, all of which are very young talented artists! I have always wanted to fill our store the same way I fill my bedroom wall, which is as much of what I like around me at all times. We want to show off other people’s talents while displaying what we do best. Are there new collabs in the pipeline? For sure, we are actually at the moment working on our best collection yet with one of Ewan and I’s favourite artists. Watch this space. When did you open your retail space in St Kevin’s Arcade and explain how you use the space in a non traditional retail way? For example you have had free tattooing in store by Gabi Bowden before…. We opened our first retail space on the 2nd of December 2015, at the start we were very much finding our feet within K Road. Gentrification was something that was always in the back of our heads, me personally I was very nervous about public backlash and resistance. However none of that happened, we found our feet very quickly and we grasped the strong sense of K Road community. That street is something very special within Auckland and the friends and people you
meet are one of a kind. It is such a unique street and it is so completely different from Ponsonby just around the corner, we realized this very quickly and that’s why we started displaying young artists work and doing events like free tattoos in store. Gabi is so talented, I can’t express that enough, watch her space. For MM we always want to do something original and different from the rest of the pack, having a store on K Road really fits our outcast atmosphere. Being within St Kevin’s Arcade has connected us with so many older designers and artists. The shop owners around us are honestly the most inspiring people we have ever meet, their experiences and stories are so authentic to the whole K Road culture. Tell us about your accessories partners – the tassle earrings etc? We have two stockists in our store (not including all the art for sale on our walls) We have SEQCOLLECTIVE earrings, which is owned and handmade by a friend of mine Sequoia Etti. Her designs are so fresh and free spirited; they really match our brand we believe because of her authenticity and eye for trends. She has also modelled for one of our very first collections, having her on board within our store was a no-brainer for us. We also stock Georgia Perry pins because they are just the most adorable accessory and her brand appreciation for pop culture is something that also truly resonates with Modern Manners ethos. You have a fantastic eye for casting – your models always seem to represent the brand perfectly. How many of them are personal friends? Thank you! I have never shot for anything apart from Modern Manners; I’m not sure why it’s just how it is right now and probably will be like that forever! Every person who models for us tells a story and I believe shows a different side of their personality. When I see a person
61
I HAVE NEVER SHOT FOR ANYTHING APART FROM MODERN MANNERS; I’M NOT SURE WHY IT’S JUST HOW IT IS RIGHT NOW AND PROBABLY WILL BE LIKE THAT FOREVER! EVERY PERSON WHO MODELS FOR US TELLS A STORY AND I BELIEVE SHOWS A DIFFERENT SIDE OF THEIR PERSONALITY.
I want to work with I really go the extra mile to secure them, street casting is a 24/7 job for me. A lot of the people I have worked with are personal friends and some people I have worked with become great friends of mine! It would probably be a 50/50 split. I’m twenty so most of the people I photograph are around my age and it’s such a great way to meet like-minded people! The team at 62 Models have been next level supportive towards us, they are honestly so helpful and we just absolutely love them!!! Liam, you are multi-talented yourself. You have taken quite a few of the images opposite we are running with this story – where do you post them? Usually just on our Instagram @modernmanners or on my personal Instagram! We have a Tumblr also which is www.modernmannersofficial.tumblr.com Where can you buy MM aside from the St Kevin’s Arcade location? 24/7 from our online store!
10 photographers:
Cat Marnell (Writer) Theophilus London (Musician) Missy Elliot (Musician) Hedi Slimane (Designer) Grimes (Musician) Iris Apfel (Icon/Interior Designer) Kendrick Lamar (Musician) Chloë Sevigny (Actress/Designer/Director) Parris Goebel (Dancer/Musician) Henrietta Harris (Artist/Painter) 10 Songs Warm - SG Lewis Female Energy - Willow Smith Loveblind - Matthew Young
Mario Testino
Without You - Madeline (Spooky Black Remix)
Zara Mirkin
Co Co Lady - Mahalia Simpon
Gosha Rubchinskiy
Shot you down - Isiah Rashad
Petra Collins
Useless Trees - Stimulator Jones
Jude Liana
Loveleen - Rejjie Snow
Pierre-Ange Carlotti Robert Mapplethorpe Terry Richardson James K Lowe Ranjit Grewal
62
10 Artists:
Rainfall - Freddie Joachim Modern Manners website Modern Manners Facebook Modern Manners Tumblr Modern Manners Instagram: @modernmanners
63
64
WE HAVE TWICE CHAMPIONED THE ARTISTIC TALENTS OF SELF-PROCLAIMED TRASH QUEEN DREW BLOOD HERE IN BLACK MAGAZINE BUT DREW IS JUST ONE OF A COLLECTIVE KNOWN AS ‘DISCO BLOODBATH’ - FIVE AUCKLANDBASED TRASH QUEENS WHO MODEL THEMSELVES ON THE INFAMOUS/TRAGIC MICHAEL ALIG AND HIS NEW YORK ‘CLUB KIDS’ MOVEMENT. GRANT FELL TALKS TO ANOTHER MEMBER OF THE NO-HOLDS-BARRED CREW, BUSTY SPRINGFIELD. PHOTOS: FRANCES CARTER
Tell us a litle more about Disco Bloodbath. It is the collective that you began performing with here in Auckland. Who else was or is in that? Drew Blood? Is it still going? Disco Bloodbath originally consisted of five members, Me, Drew Blood, Yuri Guaii, Constance Maraj and Frankie Tocker. It was a collective made with the purpose of allowing a new generation of alternative drag queens to showcase whatever they wanted to do. After the first Bloodbath we were overwhelmed by people asking to partake or help out, so we made a second segment to the show where people who wanted to perform but were in the same situation also had an opportunity. . Obviously it is based upon James St James 1999 book about the legendary Michael Alig and his Club Kids phenomenon. Alig himself was both glamorous and tragic, especially toward the end with the murder of his friend Angel. Was this why you were drawn to the story? The mix of glamour and tragedy? Well, we had taken the name and lots of inspiration from it for sure, Calling the group Bloodbath was about paying Homage to those who had paved the way for us, but we are trying to do something new, because thats what being a club kid is about, for me anyway, pushing boundaries and continuing on a legacy that is forever and will always be changing.
Describe a typical performance. What sort of role do you play, describe the type of music you perform to? My ideal performance would be Drew vomiting into my mouth while I’m trying to ‘get off’. I’m always trying to gross people out, I want to be erotic and also repulsive. My favourite performance I have done was the second Bloodbath, also my second time performing, I vomited cigarette butts whilst trying to deep throat a banana. I’m attracted to music that gives me opportunity to not show any dance skill, while also looking ‘polished’. Are you actually a fan of Dusty Springfield? Who? You said in the bio you sent me that you started Bloodbath as a place where alternative performance could be showcased without discrimination or judgement. What discrimination or judgement are you referring to? Discrimination in the Auckland drag scene? When you start doing drag its an extremely intimidating experience. You’re dealing with some fierce competition when there’s only one bar to perform at, and even then there’s an expectation you need to prove yourself. It’s less about how our shows would be judged - I’m sure if we actually got a wider audience - people from all walks of life would enjoy it, it’s more about getting past people who screen shows - the people in charge of putting shows on in bars. Disco bloodbath
65
66
is great because as long as you are respecting the venue, other performers and the audience you can put on your dream show. Although in saying that Whammy Bar did have to rip up and replace the carpet on stage after 5 bloodbaths due to a build up of slime. You say you started with the obvious for most drag queens; sex – what did you progress on to? Sex has limitless potential. Theres always exploring to do as well as showcasing my favourite aspects of fetish. Fetish is such an interesting thing. There’s even a fetish for people who want a pie slammed in their face as they climax whilst sitting in jelly - taking things like this and finding ways to push them, making it funny, gory, gross is what I enjoy. finding out life curiosities and sharing them is such a joy. . How would you describe the current incarnation of Busty? Busty has always been a mash up of many ideas and feelings. At the moment Busty is a mix between a clown and a stripper. I take most of my drag inspiration from my friends who strip. I’m obsessed with pole dancing and the hustle the job requires. They are the most inspirational people in my life, I take inspiration from my terrible friends like Drew Blood too. Do Busty and Drew Blood do any performances with just the two of you? Yes. Well, we always wanted to do a show together - we’ve aimed towards that a few times but it only has managed to happen once. We both have such big ideas and I suppose one of our most severe disabilities is our lack of money. I mean in terms of making our ideas come to true fully real-
ised fruition. But I wouldn’t use that as an excuse - we can still tear it up as it is. We’ve been booked together and actually those are the times we’ve generated the most.. revenue. Top Ten Queens of all time? Me Drew Blood Yuri Guaii Alaska Thunderfvck That girl ‘Sussi’ Bleach Christeen Mathu Anderson Anna Nicole Smith Katya Jesus Christ Top Ten Drag Tunes (to perform to) Funnel of Love - Wanda Jackson Call me - Blondie I’m every woman - Chaka Khan Bitch better have my money - Rihanna My Lovin’ - En Vogue Black Velvet - Alannah Myles Kiss - Prince Hung up - Madonna Birthday cake - Cibo Matto Whatta man - Salt ‘n’ Pepa
67
68
BEAUTY
Photography: David Shields Fashion Editor: Samara Wilson Hair : Chris Coonrod at Union Mangament using M.A.C Cosmetics Make-up: Isabella Schimid at Union Management using M.A.C Cosmetics Models: Bella Oelmann and Alexander Mueller, both at IMG Models. 70
71
72
Opening page: Alex wears jeans by Acne Studios, earring by Petite Grand. Bella wears bra by Something Wicked from Babylikestopony, jeans by Lee, earring by Petite Grand.
73
74
Opposite page: Alex wears sweater and jeans by Acne.
75
76
77
78
This page and opposite page: Alex wears top by Prada, rings by Kerry Rocks.
79
80
This page and opposite page: Bella wears bra by Something Wicked from Babylikestopony. Song title: Owiny Sigoma Band, 2015.
81
82
Photography: Charles Howells Fashion Editor: Rachael Churchward Hair: Lydia Mahon, Ashley Hoyt, Candace Cole, Katie Berrett and Bella McNab at Ryder Salon using Davines Make-up: Shirley Simpson and Phoebe Watt using M.A.C Cosmetics Models: Bernie, Libby, Dillyn and Gloria at Unique Models, Emma at Red 11 and Emily at RPD Models
83
Opening pages left: Libby wears: Long vest by NOM*d over dress by Lela Jacobs, sweater over shoulder by Workshop, belt by Karen Walker. Right: Dress by Camilla & Marc, shoulder-piece by Ilyese Court, necklace by Mimco. Opposite page: Dillyn wears: Top by Neuw over shirt by Kate Sylvester and skivvy by Helen Cherry. This page: Leather jacket by Barbara I Gongini from The Shelter, chain by Mimco. Opening pages and these pages: Make-up left: Shirley Simpson. Make-up right: Phoebe Watt.
84
85
Opposite page: Emma wears: Leatherette jacket by Helen Cherry over top by MM6 by Maison Margiela from The Shelter. Right: Dress by Camilla & Marc, shoulder-piece by Ilyese Court, necklace by Mimco. Opposite page: Dillyn wears: Top by Neuw over shirt by Kate Sylvester and skivvy by Helen Cherry. Harness by by Ilyese Court This page: Dress by Helen Cherry over top by MM6 by Maison Margiela from The Shelter, belts by NOM*d. These pages: Make-up left: Shirley Simpson, make-up right: Phoebe Watt.
86
87
Opposite page: Gloria wears: Leather jacket by Marc by Marc Jacobs from Workshop, chain in lapel by Mimco. This page: Gloria wears: Tops by Zambesi. These pages: Make-up left: Shirley Simpson, make-up right: 88 Phoebe Watt.
89
Opposite page: Bernie wears: Top by Zambesi over dress by Camilla and Marc. This page: Top by MM6 by Maison Margiela from The Shelter, sweater around waist by Workshop. These pages: Make-up left: Shirley Simpson, make-up right: 90 Phoebe Watt.
91
Opposite page: Emily wears: Sheer dress by Ingrid Starnes over top by Camilla and Marc. This page: Tops by Zambesi. Song title: Your Headlights Are On, 2011. Assistant Fashion Editor: Ethan Butler These pages: Make-up left: Shirley Simpson, make-up right: Phoebe Watt. 92
93
94
Photography and Fashion Editor: Nina van Lier Hair: Kaleb Pritchard at Dharma Salon Make-up: Chay Roberts using M.A.C Cosmetics Models: Liam, Sean and Ed at Unique Models, Jeff at Clyne, Dylan at BLK.
95
96
Opening page: Liam wears shirt by A.P.C, blazer by Topman. Opposite page: Dylan wears jacket by Helen Talbot, T-shirt by Workshop. This page: Jeff wears jacket by Keith Mathieson. All eyewear by Le Specs.
97
98
Opposite page: Sean wears jacket by Topman. This page: Ed wears bomber from Karen Walker Archives worn underneath jacket by Neuw. Photo Assist: Madeleine Brighouse. Hair Assists: Nicole Gordon, Lenard Johnson, and Nina Williams. Song Title: K-OS, 2011.
99
F 100
ASHION
102
Photography: Ribal Hosn at Vivien’s Creative Fashion Editors: Ribal Hosn and Justin Henry Hair and Make-up: Justin Henry at Vivien’s Creative using Makeupforever Cosmetics and Kevin.Murphy hair styling products. Models: Duckie at Pride Models/IMG and Jess Gold at Maverick Models
103
104
All clothing worn throughout by Strateas.Carlucci
105
106
107
108
109
110
111
112
Song title: Sinkane, 2014
113
Photography: Tintin Hedberg at Hell Studios. Fashion Editor: Sophie Barker at Vivien’s Creative. Hair and Make-up: Justin Henry at Vivien’s Creative using M.A.C Cosmetics and O&M styling products. Models: Siobhan O’Keefe and Jess Gold at Maverick Model Management.
114
115
116
Opening page: Jacket from Assin, skirt from The Passionfruit Store, nipple covers from KissKill. Opposite page: Earrings by Lovisa, latex bow by William Wilde . This page: Coat by Maticevski, full body stocking and thigh-high boots from Siren Doll.
117
118
Opposite page: Bra by Marlies Dekkers from Siren Doll, trousers by Maticevski. This page: Top by Maticevski.
119
120
Opposite page: Nipple covers from KissKill. This page: Top by Maticevski, underwear, hosiery and garter from The Passionfruit Shop.
121
122
Opposite page: Top by Maticevski. This page: Bomber jacket by Acne Studios, mini-skirt by Maticevski, bra by Chantal Thomass from Kitty K, earrings by Lovisa, latex neckpiece from The Passionfruit Store.
123
124
Opposite page: Blazer by Bassike, bra and garter by Agent Provocateur. Skirt by A.L.C from David Jones, hosiery from The Passionfruit Store.This page: Mesh sweater by Maticevski , bra from Siren Doll, Vex latex underwear and stockings from The Pasionfruit Store, necklace by Lovisa. Song title: Money, 2013 Photo Assist: Ryan Creevey
125
Photography: Veronika Gulyaveva Fashion Editor: Ethan Butler Hair and Make-up: Carolyn Haslett using M.A.C Cosmetics and Davines Model: Bianca at Red 11
126
127
128
Opening page: Skirt by Arthur Arbesser, top concept by Ethan Butler. Opposite page: Top by MM6 by Maison Margiela.This page: Top by Arthur Arbesser and pants by Lela Jacobs; all of the above from The Shelter.
129
130
Opposite page and following page: Dress by Jimmy D. This Page: Jacket by Taylor, shoes by Mobi, all from The Shelter.
131
132
Bag by MM6 by Maison Margiela from The Shelter
133
This page: Mesh dress by Zambesi. Opposite page: Outfit by Jimmy D from The Shelter. Song title: Money, 2013. Fashion assist: Tara McVeigh. Thanks to White Studios
134
135
Photography/film director: Stephen Langmanis Fashion Editor: Sara Dunn Hair (Green backgrounds): John Chapman at The Wall Group London and (Blue backgrounds) Sofia Sjoo using Paul Mitchell Make-up: (Green backgrounds) Yin Lee using Givenchy and (Blue backgrounds) Lillie Lindh Models: Violet Gould, Caroline Sachmann, Maria Crittell and Ola Zieminska at The Hive, Grace Booth at Select London, Claire Collins at IMG London, Cai Lee at Viva London and Alice Gilbert at Elite London 136
137
Opening page: Claire wears: Shirt by Yohji Yamamoto, jeans by Natasha Zinko Opposite page: Cai Lee wears: Top by Topshop (customised by stylist), denim knickers by Calvin Klien (customised by stylist) from Beyond Retro, vintage Levi’s from Rokit. This page: Cai Lee wears: Vintage Waistcoat by Levi’s, vintage jeans (customised by stylist) by Wrangler from Beyond Retro.
138
139
Opposite page: Jumper by Miu Miu, skirt by A.P.C This page: Violet wears: Jumpsuit and boots by Celine, shirt (worn underneath) by Rokit. Both pages: Hair by Jon Chapman at The Wall Group. Make-up: by Yin Lee using Givenchy.
140
141
142
Opposite page: Cai wears vintage Levi’s waistcoat.This page: Alice wears top by Wåven, vintage gilet by Levi’s and vintage shorts by Calvin Klein, both from Beyond Retro. Thigh-high boots Customised by stylist.
143
144
Opposite page: Violet wears shirt by Miu Miu, vintage Levi’s from Beyond Retro. This page: Ola wears top by Waven, trousers by Joseph.
145
146
Opposite page: Alice wears top by Wåven. This page: Maria wears top and trousers by Y’s by Yohji Yamamoto.
147
148
Opposite page: Claire wears dungarees Y’s by Yohji Yamamoto This page: Caroline wears: Jumpsuit by Red Valentino.
149
150
Opposite page: Alice wears vintage fringe jacket from Beyond Retro. Leather waistcoat underneath by The Kooples. This page: Cai Lee wears Bra and knickers by ERES, trousers by Junn.J.
151
Opposite page: Caroline wears dress by House of Holland. This Page: Waistcoat by Levi’s from Rokit.
152
153
154
Opposite page: Maria wears jacket Paul & Joe Sister, knickers by Kriss Soonik, boots by House of Holland. This page: Grace wears Shirt Y’S by Yohji Yamamoto, vintage shorts by Levi’s from Rokit
155
156
Opposite page: Violet wears jacket and dungarees by Saint Laurent. This page: Caroline wears jacket by Miu Miu, jeans by NEUW. Song title: The Generationals, 2009
157
Photography: Stephen Langmanis Fashion Editor: Sara Dunn Model: Sharnee Gates at IMG London
158
159
160
Opening page: Top and skirt by Stella McCartney. Opposite page: Dress by House of Holland, socks by Miu Miu. This page: Jacket, skirt and knickers by Prada, socks by Miu Miu.
161
162
Opposite page: Shirt by Miu Miu, skirt by House of Holland. This page: Jacket by Fleamadonna, skirt and socks by Miu Miu. Song title: The Avener, 2015
163
Photography: Cybele Malinowski Fashion Editor: Jane Mow Hair: The Murphy Gozzard Hair Community Make-up: Jess Chapman at Network Agency Models: Roberta at Chic Management, Franny at IMG Models, Joel at FiveTwenty 164
165
166
Opening page: Jacket and neck-piece by Prada, eyewear by Giorgio Armani. Opposite page: Entire outfit by Miu Miu.This page: Shirt, jacket, and long sleeve top by Prada.
167
168
Opposite page: Entire outfit by Prada. This page: Dress, jacket and neck piece by Miu Miu.
169
170
Both pages: Jumpsuit and bag by Louis Vuitton.
171
172
Opposite page: Entire outfit and bag by Louis Vuitton. This page: Top by Karen Walker, pants and scarf by Anna Quan, dress worn as coat by Petra Benton, bag by Miu Miu, boots by Tommy Hilfiger, earrings by Sarina Suriano.
173
174
Opposite page: Dress by Gucci. This page: Entire look by Prada.
175
176
Opposite page: Tops, skirt, neck-piece and earrings by Prada, bag by Miu Miu. This page: Shirt by Jil Sander. Pants by Tommy Hilfiger, boots by R.M Williams, bag by Louis Vuitton. Eyewear by Prada.
177
178
Opposite page and this page: Top and skirt by Celeste Tesoriero, coat by Petra Benton, bag and key chain by Miu Miu, boots by RM Williams, eyewear by Dolce & Gabbana.
179
180
Opposite page: Coat, pants, scarf and bag by Gucci, shoes by Prada. This page: Entire outfit and bag by Prada.
181
182
Both pages: Jacket and dress by Christian Dior, lingerie by Lonely Lingerie.
183
184
Opposite page: Shirt by Prada, sweater by Craig Green, pants by Astrid Andersen, boots by R.M Williams. This page: Dress, earrings and neck-piece by Prada.
185
186
Opposite page: Entire outfit by Miu Miu.This page: Shirt by Prada, sweater by Craig Green, pants by Astrid Andersen.
187
188
Opposite page: Dress by Louis Vuitton This page: Entire outfit by Prada Album title: Spiritualized, 1997 Photo Assist: Elke Numeyer
189
Photography: Russell Kleyn Fashion Editor: Kendra McCarthy Hair: Matthias Ryder Te Moananui at Blue Cactus Make-up: Natalee Fisher Models: Nartasha Orsman and Erin Ahuriri at Clyne Models
190
191
192
Opening page: Erin wears softcup bra by Lonely Lingerie, culottes by twentyseven names,skivvy by Penny Sage ribbon, stylist’s own. This page: Erin wears coat and trousers by Penny Sage, underwire bra by Lonely Lingerie. Nartasha wears coat by Zambesi, longline bra by Lonely Lingerie, ribbon, stylist’s own.
193
194
Opposite page: Erin wears softcup bra by Lonely Lingerie, culottes by twenty-seven names, skivvy by Penny Sage, ribbon, stylist’s own. This page: Nartasha wears coat and trousers by Penny Sage, underwire bra by Lonely Lingerie, ribbon, stylist’s own.
195
This page and opposite: Erin wears softcup bra by Lonely Lingerie, culottes by twenty-seven names, skivvy by Zambesi, ribbon, stylist’s own. Nartasha wears coat and trousers by Penny Sage, underwire bra by Lonely Lingerie. Nartasha wears coat by Zambesi, longline bra by Lonely Lingerie, ribbon, stylist’s own. Song title: Sun Ra, Sleeping Beauty 1979.
196
197
Photography: TrĂŠ and Elmaz Fashion Editor: Blake Sutherland at Work Makeup: Isobel Claire using MAC Cosmetics Hair Mandy Kingsman @ Work Models: Gem @ Work, Casey Caroline & Victoria Germyn @ IMG Models
198
199
200
Opening page: (left) Dress by Serpent And The Swan, (middle) dress by Aaizel (right) dress by Serpent And The Swan. Opposite page: (left) Tunic by Oscar De La Renta from Cara Mia Vintage, (right) shirt by Worn, choker by Aaizel.
201
Custom dress by Aaizel.
202
203
204
Both pages: Top from Cara Mia Vintage, pearl merkin by Aaizel.
205
206
Opposite page: Top by Comme Des Garçons x Junya Watanabe from IRVRSBL, pants by Serpent and The Swan. This page: (Left) and (right): Tops by Kate Sylvester, models’ own briefs, (middle) dress from Cara Mia Vintage, shoes by Solsana.
207
208
(Left): Dress by Monster’s Alphabet, (middle) top by Issey Miyake, pants by Jean Paul Gaultier from IRVRSBL, (right) top by Issey Miyake from IRVRSBL, briefs by Lonely Lingerie.
209
210
Opposite page and this page:Tops by Kate Sylvester, models’ own briefs, (middle) dress from Cara Mia Vintage, shoes by Solsana
211
Opposite page and following two pages: Shirt by M.Hogan, choker, stylist’s own.
212
213
214
215
Opposite page: All looks by Worn. This page and following two pages: Top from Cara Mia Vintage, pearl merkin by Aaizel.
216
217
218
219
Photography: David K Shields Fashion Editor: Marianne Malafosse Hair: Sarah Laidlaw @ Union Management using Cloud Nine Make-up: Claire Thomson @ Company1 Agency using Chanel Model: Willow @ IMG Models 220
221
222
Opening page: Dress by Burberry, scarf by Prada, headpiece by Suzy O’Rourke, chain, stylist’s own. This page and opposite page: Dress by One Fell Swoop, neckpiece by Louis Vuitton, briefs by Spanx, chains (worn as belt), stylist’s own.
223
224
This page: Dress by One Fell Swoop, bra top by Monster Alphabets, neckpiece by Louis Vuitton Opposite page: Top, dress, skirt, and earrings by Prada
225
226
This page and opposite page: Knit top, dress, shorts and choker by Dior, boots by Witchery, fingerless gloves, stylist’s own.
227
228
Opposite page: Shirt, dress, vest, side-tie briefs, feather scarf, fur keyring and headband by Miu Miu.This page: Vest and dress by Romance Was Born, headpiece by Suzy O’Rourke.
229
This page: Dress by Zimmerman, headband by Suzy O’Rourke.
230
231
Opposite page: Dress by Burberry, belt by Louis Vuitton, headpiece by Suzy O’Rourke, briefs by Spanx. This page: Top and skirt by Toni Maticevski, headband by Suzy O’Rourke.
232
233
234
Opposite page: Dress by Daniel Avakian, shoes by Maje, necklace stylist’s own.This page: Dress and choker by Dior, alphabet necklaces by Louis Vuitton. Book title: Courtesy Maya Angelou, 1969.
235
236
Photography: David K. Shields Fashion Editor: Samara Wilson Hair and Grooming: Chris Coonrod at Union Management using M.A.C Cosmetics Model: Alexander MĂźeller at IMG Models
237
238
Opposite page and this page: Suit, top and shoes by Prada, chains (with earrings and ring attached) by Kerry Rocks, tassle necklace by Petite Grand.
239
Opposite page:Sweater and pants by Prada, Chain with earrings attached by Kerry Rocks. This page: Shirt and top by Prada, chain by Kerry Rocks.
240
241
Opposite page: Suit, shirt, tie and shoes by Burberry. Chains with earrings attached by Kerry Rocks This page: Suit and shirt by Burberry. Chains with earrings attached by Kerry Rocks
242
243
244
Opposite page: Blazer and jeans by Acne Studios, socks and shoes by Prada, chains with earrings attached by Kerry Rocks.This page: Suit, shirt and tie by Burberry, chains with earrings attached by Kerry Rocks
245
246
Opposite page: Shirt, pants and shoes by Prada. This page: Shirt, top and pants by Prada, chain by Kerry Rocks.
247
Photography: David K Shields Fashion Editor: Samara Wilson Hair & Make-up: Chloe Langford Model: Bella Oelmann at IMG Models
248
249
Opening page: Top by H&M, hat by Uniqlo Opposite page: Bikini bottom by Voda Swim. Opposite page: Bikini bottom by Nookie, necklace by Inspired Tribe.This page: Dress by H&M, bikini top by Agent Provocateur, bikini bottoms and shoulder bag by Tigerlily. Cushion and rugs by Cadrys. Hat by Akubra, beaded bracelet, stylist’s own.
250
251
252
Bathing suit by H&M
253
254
Opposite page: Top by H&M, bikini bottom by Duskii. Hat by Uniqlo. This page: Bikini bottom by Nookie, necklace by Inspired Tribe.
255
Photography: Michelle Beatty at Vivien’s Creative Fashion Editor: Lauren Dietze at Vivien’s Creative Hair & Make-up: Justin Henry at Vivien’s Creative using O&M hair products and Chanel Cosmetics Model: Mateja at Jaz Daly Management
256
257
258
Opening page: Coat by Limb the Label, bralette by Love Stories Intimates, pants by Acne Studios, choker (worn throughout) by NYE, boots by Miu Miu (worn throughout) pendant necklace and earrings (worn throughout) by Lott Studio, ring (worn throughout) by Maekar. Opposite page: Silk jacket by Penny Sage, bralette by Love Stories Intimates, knit skirt by Indra Dillon.This page: Coat by Acne Studios, turtleneck bodysuit by Limb the Label, flares by Bec and Bridge, tie worn as belt stylist’s own.
259
260
Coat by Bec and Bridge, turtleneck by American Apparel, sweater by Acne Studios, pants by Limb the Label.
261
262
Opposite page: Leather jacket by Acne Studios, shirt by Handsome, skirt by Bec and Bridge. This page: Turtleneck bodysuit by Limb the Label, sweater by APC from Grace Boutique, skirt by Rolla’s.
263
264
Opposite page: Sweater by Bella Freud at Grace Boutique, silk shirt by Neuw, skirt by Acne Studios, striped blazer by Rag & Bone from Grace Boutique.This page: Top by MGSM and coat by Preen, both from Grace Boutique, skirt by Acne Studios. Song title: Amos Lee, 2005. Photo Assist: Nathan Lang. Post-production: Kivela Imaging. Production: Jade Mallick.
265
Photography: David K Shields Fashion Editor: Chris Lorimer Hair: Lauren Gunn using Kevin.Murphy Make-up: Verity Griffiths for 62 Models using M.A.C Cosmetics Models: Sophia Frankish and Fred Scahill at 62 Models, Amberley Colby at Red 11 and IMG Models
266
267
268
Opening page: Sophia wears dress by Maurie and Eve, necklace by Company of Strangers, rings, model’s own. Opposite page: Fred wears shirt by Zambesi, shorts by Rick Owen, cravat, stylist’s own. This page: Amberley wears jacket by Zambesi, shirt by Kowtow.
269
Opposite page: Amberley wears long vest and pouch by NOM*d. This page: Amberley wears dress by Silence Was over Maurie and Eve shirt. Sophie wears: Top by Zambesi over dress by Kowtow
270
271
Opposite page: Amberley wears jacket and skirt by Zambesi, shirt by Kowtow. This page: Sophie wears top by Zambesi over dress by Kowtow and Amberley wears dress by Silence Was over Maurie and Eve shirt
272
273
Opposite page: Fred wears contemporary Korowai by Kiri Nathan This page: Amberley wears vest by NOM*d.
274
275
Opposite page: Sophie wears jacket by Jarrad Godman over dress by Company of Strangers. This page: Fred wears coat by Zambesi, belt by Ann Demeulemeester, trousers by Comme des Garรงons
276
277
Opposite page: Sophia wears shirt by Stylestalker over dress (worn backward) by NOM*d. This page: Sophia wears jacket by Vanishing Elephant and trousers by Silence Was, Amberley wears jacket and trousers by Kate Sylvester, Fred wears jacket and trousers by Zambesi.
278
279
280
Sophia wears jacket by Vanishing Elephant. Fred wears: Jacket by Zambesi. Amberley wears: Jacket by Kate Sylvester
281
282