BLKonBLK Issue #1 by Black Magazine

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future retrospect

ZORA BELL BOYD www.fac eb o o k.c o m/zo rabe ll. boy d

IMAGES: MEIGHAN ELLIS

yugen SUMMER 2013 | 14

504 K ROAD AUCKLAND www.thekeep.co.nz 16

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What is Black on Black? Multiple igneous rock headlands repeating and reclining against each other on our West Coast beaches? The hit on the chest of a Maori All Blackâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hands, mid Haka? Zambesi layered over NOM*d layered over Lela Jacobs with a Lonely black bra? Perhaps it is all of these things and many more yet BLKONBLK to us is quite simply Black Magazine doing Black Magazine online. It is everything we love in fashion, beauty, arts, culture, fashion film, new faces, features, profiles, products, personalities, design, online, good living and better fun. We hope you enjoy this free digital version of Black Magazine and BLKONBLK, the home of Black Magazine online....feel free to share all content and run your cursor over text and credits for occasional links, shop now or pre-order items... Grant, Rachael and the Black Team

www.blackmagazine.co.nz facebook.com/blackmagnz twitter.com/blackmagazine pinterest.com/blackmagazine vimeo.com/blackmagazine Instagram: @black_mag

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CONTENTS BLACK MARKET 34. Yeah, I’m Good 36. Hand Made Tale 38. Pulling Power 40. Go Faux 42. Tan My Hyde 43. Dazzle My Digits 44. Intoxicate Me

BLACK FASHION 132. I Don’t Even Know 138. I Got A New Rose 146. Walk A Mile 156. A Place To Stand 166. XX, I Love You 176. Unwrite That Song 186. Welcome to Freebird 196. Flock Of Hearts

BLACK LIST 48. Joined At The Seam 50. Dancing With Pictures 52. Dem Bones 54. Coming Of Age 56. Dreams For Sale 58. Shooting Sparrow 60. Let It Roll 62. He Kaakano Ahau 66. Right Here, Right Now 72. The Graduates 84. Shoreditch Tales BLACK BEAUTY 94. Nailing It 96. Sans Sherrif 98. Tougher Than The Rest 104. I Saw You At The Cove 112. Cutie Kills 120. Use Once And Destroy

C O V E R Photography: Thom Kerr Fashion Editor: Infamous Uno Hair & make-up: Justin Henry at www. justinhenrybeauty.com using Make-up Forever and Kerastase Model: Holly Rose Emery at Next NY/Red 11

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Publishers, Editors-in-Chief Grant Fell & Rachael Churchward grant@blackmagazine.co.nz rachael@blackmagazine.co.nz Creative Director/Fashion Director Rachael Churchward Art Director Ian Fraser Ferguson ian@friendsofdesign.com

Writers Grant Fell, Yasmine Ganley, Thom Kerr, Stefan Knight, Sophie Curtlett Photographers Paul Empson, Andy Eaton, Thom Kerr, Charles Howells, Karen Inderbitzen-Waller, David K.Shields, Marissa Findlay, Damien Nikora, Alex Forsey, Adam Bryce, Calypso Paoli, Delphine Planqueel, Yasmine Ganley, Lula Cucchiara Contributing Fashion Editors Rachael Churchward, Sara Dunn, Karen Inderbitzen-Waller, Tilly Hardy, Elisabeth Findlay, Dayne Johnston, Sophie Barker, Katrina Sheiles, Infamous Uno, Thistle Brown, Jessica Grubisa, Hannah Lee Jade, Seb McGirr-Hunt, Dylan James Richards, Delphine Planqueel

Designer Josh Griggs Deputy Editor Yasmine Ganley yasmine@blackmagazine.co.nz

Contributing Beauty/Hair Editors & Artists Greg Murrell, Justin Henry, Vincent Oquendo, John Ruidant, Amber D, Stefan Knight, Carolyn Haslett, Dean P, Shirley Simpson, Lauren Gunn, Jason Chong-Li, Matt Benns, KieKie Stanners, Gareth Martin, Jannine Jones, Nicholas Macaulay, Lydia Mahon, Tommy Stayton, Stanze Ruddock. Marsha Moran, Sky Cripps Jackson, Ivan Leong, Anna Gaul, Ellen Galle, Ashley Skiffington

Hair Editor Greg Murrell @ Ryder Salon NZ Beauty Editor Stefan Knight

Retouching and Digital Charles Howells, Delphine Avril Planqueel, Julie Davies

Fashion Editors Thistle Brown Jessica Grubisa

Thanks to: Heta Hudson, Catriona Knapp, Zora Bell Boyd, Marcus Ringrose

New York Editor Valery Gherman @ Defactoinc.com

BLKONBLK is published by:

UK Editor Sara Dunn @ Clicks & Contacts

BLK NZ LTD P.O.Box 68-259 Newton, Auckland, New Zealand Ph: + 64 9 814 1993

Australian Editor, Sydney Thom Kerr @ Independent Artist Management Australian Editor, Melbourne Justin Henry @justinhenrybeauty.com

www.blackmagazine.co.nz www.facebook.com/Blackmagnz www.twitter.com/blackmagazine Instagram: @black_mag

Editor-at-large Paul Empson Online Editors Grant Fell Yasmine Ganley

The views expressed in BLKONBLK are not necessarily those of the publishers and editors. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any way without permission. Thank you.

Assistant Fashion Editors Seb McGirr-Hunt Dylan James Richards

We do NOT accept unsolicited submissions.

Sub Editors Anaru Taura Te Ana Mahupuku

ÂŠ BLK NZ LTD, 2013

Advertising Grant Fell: +64 21 407 248 E: grant@blackmagazine.co.nz Rachael Churchward +64 21 373 330 E: rachael@blackmagazine.co.nz

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rydersalon.com 56 Customs Street East, Britomart, Auckland. telephone: + 64—9—309 9790, Email: book@rydersalon.com

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Photography: Will Bailey Model: Cece at Red 11 28

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Y E A H I ’ M G O O D

NOM*d’s AW 2014 collection “I Will Be Good” won’t necessarily appeal only to ‘good’ girls. She may get detention but she won’t care. She will be prepared for what might befall her with harnesses on dresses and jackets; detachability across the collection - including back packs which form both parts of jackets or stand alone pieces - the ‘Drop Out’ pant with (hidden skirt), a return of the bodice in panelling - overall there is a sense of duality and mobility at work. A collection for the girl that says she will be good but doesn’t necessarily mean it. “I Will Be Good” will be instore in Feburary. NOM*d has two Plume stores in the South Island stocking their own fab brand and rad pieces by Rick Owens, Comme Des Garcons, Zambesi, Bernhard Willhelm, DRKSHDW, Jimmy D, Play & Parfum, Serge Thoraval, Ksubi, Palladium, Dr Martens, LD Tuttle and Complex Geometries. If you don’t live on the Mainland you can always check their online store.

Photography: Charles Howells Fashion Editor: Rachael Churchward Hair: Stefan Knight at 62 Management using M.A.C Cosmetics and Original & Mineral Nails: Tanya Barlow at hellotanya Model: Kia at 62 Models

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Lela Jacobs is a whirling creative dervish up there in her aetlier The Keep on Aucklandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Karangahape Road. She is not only creating her collections, of which Yugen is the latest, but also concocting a number of one-off pieces, bespoke creations, painting and drawing and collaborating with a number of artists and friends. For BLKONBLK, stylist Rachael Churchward selected several of these one off pieces; the Fade Skulker top in linen and cotton with hand-painted fades, Wrap Pants in silk bamboo with hand painted bleeds, the Tassel Singlet in hand-painted cotton knit and the hood in silk linen. That Lela hand paints all of these herself is an example of the love and care that goes into each Lela Jacobs garment. Check out Lelaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s online store here and for any styles not online contact info@lelajacobs. co.nz or visit The Keep, 504 Karangahape Road, Auckland. Photo: Charles Howells Styling: Rachael Churchward H&M: Stefan Knight at 62 Management using M.A.C Cosmetics and Original & Mineral Nails: Tanya Barlow Model: Kia at 62 Models

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PULLING P OW E R How many ways can I you wear a Vanishing Elephant? When it is this sweet summer print and Rachael Churchward has her thinking cap on, many. Pattern smashing! Team the singlet, short and bomber (worn around waist) to give you more pulling power! In store at Black Box mid-January. Photo: Charles Howells Styling: Rachael Churchward H&M: Stefan Knight at 62 Management using M.A.C Cosmetics and Original & Mineral Nails: Tanya Barlow Model: Kia at 62 Models.

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D A Z Z L E M Y D I G I T S

Selling DreamS

Ring, ring....ring, ring...prolific jeweller Zora Bell Boyd knows how to make rings. She makes beautiful jewellery in general but if she were to put a finger on one of her key strengths, the dazzle on the digit would surely feature. This Christmas Zora has a sweet selection of rings for you or your loved one in store at Wunderkammer, and available online. All set in sterling silver - from the beautiful Topaz of the “Mere Certanzy’ ring above, through black diamonds, citrine and sapphires - ZBB Jewellery is a quality, shiny, sparkly option this Christmas. Photo: Charles Howells Styling: Rachael Churchward Hair & make-up: Stefan Knight at 62 using M.A.C and Original & Mineral Nails: Tanya Barlow Model: Kia at 62 Models

exhibition organised by the victoria and albert museum, london. melvin Sokolsky, Simone wears fashion by Venet, River Seine, Paris.American Harper’s Bazaar, March 1963 © melvin Sokolsky / victoria and albert museum, london The Home Of Black Magazine Online

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Leather has long been a part of the Australian fashion landscape, unavoidable for a country colonised by stockmen and bush rangers with a plethora of different animals roaming the crust; kangaroos, sheep, wombats - all sporting hides! The Hyde leather apparel company is, however, a long way from the Outback. They offer, says the company “the epitome of affordable luxury offering everlasting textures that melt into your silhouette. Each piece has a directional edge without missing a detail” For BLKONBLK stylist Rachael Churchward teamed the gorgeous green of the Macaw top with the punchy colour and soft leather of the Aeon Flux shorts. Available at Black Box. Photo: Charles Howells Styling: Rachael Churchward H&M: Stefan Knight at 62 Management using M.A.C Cosmetics and Original & Mineral Nails: Tanya Barlow Model: Kia at 62 Models

T H E PA U L A W A L D E N L A B E L C R E AT E S J E W E L L E R Y, ACCESSORIES AND H E A D W E A R T H AT ARE REGARDED AS FUNCTIONAL PIECES O F A R T. PA U L A , A R T I S T AND DESIGNER BEHIND THE EPONYMOUS L ABEL SPEAKS WITH SARAH B I R C H L E Y S H O R T LY A F T E R H E R R E L O C AT I O N T O PA R I S . P H O T O : T H O M K E R R

CAPTIV A T I N G G O F PA R I S

There’s a lot to like about Australian faux fur company Unreal Fur. The ethical foundation upon which the company is built is summarised in their question, “Why go faux?” - and answer “Because animals are not ours to wear”. They create quality fashion pieces out of ‘unreal’ fur, pushing fur fashion design boundaries,

and have their finger on the fashion pulse with cute pieces like this Fire & Ice jacket, Ferocious Thread Through scarf and Natasha hat. As the designers say, “Wear your own skin. Go Faux.” Unreal Fur is available at 47 Frocks in Wanaka and Smith & Caughey. http://www.unrealfur.com.au/shop/

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I N T O X I C A T E M E

For the past two years scent aficionados Ingrid Starnes and Simon Pound have been working on a new perfume Vetyver Bergamot by Ingrid Starnes. As a busy and creative couple with three kids they realised that they most often gifted each other perfume and it was a meaningful gift. Hence Vetyver Bergamot. Vetyver comes from the root of the vetyver grass - a mystical scent, used in temple worship in India and Sri Lanka; it is heady and intoxicating and is often considered masculine, while Bergamot is the citrus flower that is fresh, green and grapefruit and lime. Drawn in essence from Grasse, France, and Java, the perfume and a matching soap has been designed and produced here in Auckland under the trained eye of Yves Dombrowsky. Vetyver Bergamot by Ingrid Starnes is available now at The Dressing Room at The Department Store, Ingrid Starnes Newmarket, Tessuti Herne Bay and selected stockists throughout NZ and online. These beautiful shots were based upon Sir John Everett Millaisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; legendary Ophelia and shot by Karen Inderbitzen-Waller and Delphine Avril Planqueel. H&M by Shirley Simpson. Model: Amberley at N Model Management

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J O I N E DAT T H E S E A M

brit0mart grey lynn takapuna

‘ T H E B O Y S ’ A S T H E Y A R E A F F E C T I O N AT E L Y K N O W N AT B L A C K H Q H A V E P U T T H E I R H E A R T A N D S O U L I N T O T H E I R N E W R O L E S A S A S S I S TA N T F A S H I O N E D I T O R S AT B L A C K . Y A S M I N E G A N L E Y L E A R N S A B O U T W H Y D Y L A N J A M E S R I C H A R D S A N D S E B M C G I R R - H U N T A R E ‘J O I N E D AT T H E S E A M’ P H OTO : LU L A C U CC H I A R A Yasmine Ganley: How would you describe what you do? Seb McGirr-Hunt and Dylan James Richards: We are Assistant Fashion Editors for Black Magazine. We also do freelance editorial work on the side. Interning in other areas of the fashion industry now and then. We do all our work as a team. Joined at the seam as a friend once said. Where did you grow up? Seb: Wellington Dylan: Auckland. What has been your biggest success to date? Joining the Black Team. Who or what are you influenced by right now? We would say our styling aesthetic would be a minimal soft power, especially when shooting with female models. We get inspiration from menswear: Lanvin menswear Calvin Klein Collection, JW Anderson and Ermenegildo Zegna - tailoring emphasised with fluid lines, softer fabrics, longer jackets and looser pants. Pretty much 48

we like using menswear on women. We also love the whole ‘Blue Period’ trend designers like Raf Simons. I love how you work as a team! Can you tell us about how you two met and why you decided to start working together? We meet through mutual friends and then went and studied together at Uni. I (Sebastian) started doing assisting and then got Dylan into it. When we started doing our own shoots, we would always just end up doing it together because all our ideas would just bounce off each other, and we think two minds are better than one. We will have an idea and then the other one would work off it making a perfect look. Working as a team, what does the other person bring to yourself and your work? Like in the previous answer, our ideas would just bounce of each other. One of us would think of something that inspires us and the other

would have something completely different and we would make it work by combining different aspects of each of our ideas. Best place to research for inspiration is.....? Mostly Tumblr, also when we see a good location we always think what could look good standing right there, so we will start working off that. And while you’re doing that you’re listening to…? Seb: Groove Armada, or something classy. Dylan: Anything I can image our editorial walking down a runway to. Black is.....? Compulsory I wish I was alive when.....? Seb: Angelo Talazzi Menswear SS1990 Dylan: Early 90’s when people dressed so much better, I don’t mean that tacky grunge 90s kid, I mean like early Comme Des Garcons. Summer means.....? Seb: Faded black clothes by winter. Dylan: Dressing provocatively.

S hop Online:

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/ 35B S U R R E Y C R E S , GR E Y LY N N / TH E D E PA RTME N T S TOR E ,10 N ORTH C RO F T ST, TAKAPUNA / 5 7 T YL ER ST, BRI TO M ART /

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D A N C I N G W I Y A S M I N E G A N L E Y D I S C O V E R S A R T I S T, D A N C E R , S T Y L I S T, A N D F R E E THINKER SRIWHANA SPONG IS A TRUE RENAISSANCE WOMAN. INSPIRED A S A C H I L D BY A P H OTO O F M A RG OT F O N T E Y N , S R I W H A N A E M BA R K E D O N A L I F E L O N G J O U R N E Y T H R O U G H A R T, S T O P P I N G O N T H E W A Y T O S T Y L E LO R D E F O R H E R V I D E O ‘ R OYA L S’ A N D P U B L I S H A B O O K B E F O R E R E A D Y I N G H E R S E L F F O R H E R N E X T P I E C E AT C A R R I A G E W O R K S I N S Y D N E Y W H I C H I N C L U D E S ‘A L E T T E R , A D A N C E , S O M E S C U L P T U R E S A N D H O P E F U L LY A B I R D O R T W O. . . ”

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T H P I C T U R E S Yasmine Ganley: You have recently moved to The Netherlands, what instigated this move? Sriwhana Spong: I’ve started a Masters at the Piet Zwart Institute in Rotterdam. Where did you grow up? Balmoral, Auckland. I loved your dance installation/showing at Auckland Art Gallery. Am I right to say that you have a dance background? If so, what sort of training did you do? (I am interested as I am a trained dancer too). I studied classical ballet for years. My mother had a black and white photograph of Margot Fonteyn as Ondine taken by Keith Money that I was obsessed with as a child. I wanted to become that image~that movement~whatever that image contained I wanted it. Of course I never got there, but I did get to meet Keith Money and chat with him about his time photographing Fonteyn and Nureyev in the 60s. He has this incredible archive of footage which I got to brush up against—the odd image pulled from the archive to show me— but never fully enter, much to my frustration. Sitting in Birkenhead while he told me how he helped Fonteyn smuggle Baryshnikov out of a London hotel room to spend the day at Margot’s mothers house, all under the eyes of the KGB, kind of blew my mind. He very generously wrote a text and contributed images to a publication I made with Clouds and Michael Lett Publishing, before running off with his archive to Ireland. Can you tell us about how this training finds its way into your work, or even your everyday life? It’s an incredibly strict philosophy of movement. You take class every afternoon, six days a week where you rehearse the same exercises again and again, and over time its structure embeds itself into your musculature~especially when you are a young girl and still developing. I think about it as a form that has colonised my body, and I will always be connected to it in this way. My body is a product of this strict and rather archaic practice, but it is also a language of thought and expression that I know how to read. This has helped me when working with dancers on recent projects, and I am beginning to see how a particular way of thinking about space, body and object that developed when I was studying dance crept into my practice and embedded itself into how I think about these things within a sculptural practice. The best thing art school taught you? Learning to have confidence as a young woman in what I did~mainly because in my last year I’d get told to make shit big and out of metal. The ridiculousness of this made me realise the T h e H o m e O f B l a c k M a g a z ine O nline

power of trusting my intuition. Any mentors/ teachers that you would like to acknowledge? My art teacher Niki Glasgow at high school was cool. School teachers should get more credit~the really good ones can change your life. Who are you represented by in Auckland? Michael Lett Gallery. What has been your career highlight so far? Watching a performance at the Merce Cunningham studio in 2008, followed by a q&a with Merce himself. I also took some lessons at the studio, and fumbled my way through~it was really embarrassing, but it was an interesting way of learning about someone else’s ideas by physically engaging with them. His technique uses the potential movements of the spine, whereas classical ballet uses it strictly as a support structure—you generally have to keep it straight. Something as seemingly simple as putting a curve in something was immensely difficult for me to achieve. There is a process of unlearning, undoing and letting go that is involved in order to move somewhere new and interesting~this is what my time at the Piet is about too I think. Can you tell us about your involvement with Lorde? My friend Joel was directing her first two videos and asked me to style Ella. I was curious because my friend Justin, who works at Universal, had told me a lot about her. I’m pretty cynical about the music industry, especially the way women are represented. It was wonderful meeting Ella~she’s whip smart, unpretentious and knows what she wants. You know straight away that she’s not going to be pushed into doing anything she doesn’t want to do, wearing anything she doesn’t want to wear. You also forget how young she is; she has a wisdom about her and of course that star quality, that thing that you don’t believe exists till you meet it~an enigmatic quality I suppose that could almost make you believe in destiny. I think she’s a good role model for young women. I love pop and r&b, but there are moments when you stop to listen to certain lyrics or dissect the music videos and the blatant misogyny is so depressing. This makes one so aware of the space of contradiction contemporary living demands: can I critique it and dance to it at the same time? Rihanna’s Pour it Up is a good reminder of how exploited women still are in that industry~that video is particularly bleak to me. So it’s a relief to have someone like Ella step into that arena; I love how she has chosen pop as her medium, she understands

it as a format, how it operates and uses that to her advantage~and most importantly she writes a great song. What are you working towards right now? I’m working on a piece for Carriageworks in Sydney. It involves a letter, a dance, some sculptures, and hopefully a bird or two...Sounds fascinating, talk us through it... This new work attempts to translate a letter written in 1919 as the dancer Nijinsky slipped into what is believed to be chronic schizophrenia. The letter is untranslatable from its original French as words are largely unanchored from meaning, rather becoming tools for persistent rhythm and repetition through the use of clanging. I am working with a dancer Benjamin Ord to translate this letter into movement. It explores translation as an attempt, a series of propositions that search for an essence rather than simply the relaying of information. Finding the points of empathy/entry I guess. Do you have fellow artists you love collaborating with, working on ideas/research together? I work a lot with my friend Benjamin Ord who is a dancer and choreographer living in London. I’ve learnt a lot through engaging with him, and it has been challenging opening up my process to a dialogue with another person, another medium. My friend Hanna is an engineer who works for NGO’s getting drinkable water to refugees~ I’ll be complaining about how hard I’m finding working through a particular idea, and she’ll be explaining how she managed to save a village from dying of thirst ~ our friendship really helps me to put everything into perspective. Favourite way to spend a day off in The Netherlands? Napping, streaming tv and catching up on mountains of reading. The first song you listen to in the mornings? Weirdly or not so weirdly being away from home has made me want to listen to NZ music. I’ve been listening to the Chills and the Mint Chicks a lot. On repeat is Drake’s Hold on We’re Going Home. I’m also addicted to Nino Rota’s score for Fellini’s Casablanca. Any plans for your white Christmas? I’ll be back in New Zealand for a few weeks. It’s been hard seeing everyone’s pictures of NZ in the springtime, especially here where it’s grey, rainy and cold. So I’m looking forward to the sun, the beach, eating from my mum’s vege garden, getting to crack into my dad’s home brew and seeing friends and family. Image: Learning Duets 2012 Digital video 4’50, Choreographed and danced by Benjamin Ord Image courtesy the artist and Michael Lett Gallery 51

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Bedrock Bones founder Monique Saville makes jewellery that is not only cute and fun but steeped in alternative pop signatures from skate decks to tattoo art. Yasmine Ganley aka Anyone Girl digs down to bedrock and Adam Bryce captures her for his book Right Here, Right Now: Yasmine Ganley: How would you describe what you do? Monique: I imagine things then make them into reality! I make cute stuff and I illustrate or write. When and why did you start Bedrock Bones? I started originally in collaboration with Kate Sylvester and Karen Inderbitzen-Waller making the jewellery for her “Take a Hike” collection shown at Australian Fashion week in 2009. Karen saw a necklace I had made myself out of bones and Kate loved it and was like lets do this! It kinda grew from that. Obviously I think Pebbles Flintstone is dope too! Tell us about your current collection! It’s a mash up of fastfood and tarot symbols! I got quite into tarot reading this year, drawing anime, cartoons, and my recent trips to Tokyo have been a huge inspiration. The kids there are so NUTZ! The summer collection is called “Pizzaface n’ Pentacles” and fulla crazy fastfood faces and dark pagan symbols! Who is the Bedrock Bones wearer? Someone who 52

likes to be cute, and who is a bit fun in how they dress! A lot of the new pieces aren’t so subtle, so I have found they scare a lot of Kiwis, LOL, but go super great in Oz! Who or what are you inspired by at the moment? 80’s skate graphics. I love the clashy neon colours and the combo of dark and gross imagery. 80’s skate dudes are so cool! Also Grime the tattooist. So I’m doing a lot of illustration, and my highlighters are the number one tool! What was the last thing you saw that really moved you? A trip to Vanuatu, where my brothers live. Seeing how the people live off nothing, and its not poverty, these people are SOOOcontent. Who needs to read and write when you have a community and environment rich in so much more important stuff. I hate first world problems and I think we need to put that energy into people and the future. We love your illustrations! When did you start these? Can you tell us about them? I have done a bit of gig artwork before, but I just started illustrating again a few months ago after I launched my new collection. I think I discovered how to draw on my campaign images on photobucket and got addicted! I do a lot of cheeky fastfood people, pot smoking cactus’s, heartbroken bunnies, and

now lots of neon skate inspired art! I look up old decks like Natas, DogTown, Santa Cruz boards, Rob Roskop, Jeff Kendal etc and get crazy! What is one of your long term life goals? Seriously, its to meet the man of my dreams and fall in love and be happy ever after! But also, I would love to do a lot of volunteer and aid work overseas. Next destination on your must-travel-to list? Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia. I wanna chill, dream, be a gypsy and also volunteer. Phillipines might be a better idea for that right now...What are you listening to at the moment? I got really into Reggae during my Vanuatu trip, the folks there are so gansta! Scratch Lee Perry is rad. I have been listening to lots of old 90’s/00’s stuff, Jay Retard, The Lemonheads, Oasis, Soundgarden, PearlJam and Kanye’s old stuff like College Dropout and Graduation. I can rap LOL. Any plans for summer escapes? I can imagine I will be working, but it would be nice to meet a cutie and escape to somewhere quiet and beachy, in a caravan, total kiwi styles. Bedrock Bones is stocked in Melbourne, Brisbane and Queensland in Australia and also across NZ.

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C O M I N G O F A G E Whilst running her store in London, New Zealander Hollie Reedy developed strong relationships with her vintage wholesalers and built her own selection of vintage eyewear, in store. Her choices were so on the money for her customers that she decided to create her own eyewear brand, thus AGE Eyewear was born. Yasmine Ganley caught up with her, eye to eye as it were: Yasmine Ganley: Tell us about your vintage store in London. Hollie Reedy: It was called Fastforward/Rewind. I started out selling vintage at the Aotea Square Markets here in Auckland while I was at Uni and decided that I wanted to open a shop in London when I finished Uni so I shipped a container of vintage clothing and accessories from New Zealand. I opened my shop in Camden, was there for one year, then moved to Bricklane where I ran several stalls, the Brick Lane Vintage Market, Spitalfields and Hanbury. My focus was on unique, individual and crazy pieces across a wide scale of time, with customers ranging from local uni students to head designers at Alexander McQueen. The best thing about London? Individuality is welcomed, you could walk down the street in a kimono, or dressed like a cartoon character

and nobody would look twice. You travelled a lot sourcing for this store, what would be your stand out travelling moment? Hmm, there have been a few. Once, in the central markets in Brussels, I found six fur jackets for £2 each, the other was in Munich at a car boot fair, where I found a box of 1960s glasses all in mint condition, about 70 in total, 40 Euros for the lot. Did you have a favourite place to source vintage from? The stand out place would have to be Marks Tey Car Boot Sale, in Colchester, Essex. There were always the most interesting characters there with amazing finds. When did you decide that your focus would change to sunglasses? I always had a very strong vintage glasses collection, people would come to me especially for them. I then wanted to expand on this so I found a glasses wholesaler that I worked with who helped me to produce vintage-inspired glasses. I then went on selling them successfully for the next few years, this contributed to my decision to start Age Eyewear. Why did you choose the brand name AGE? I thought it was necessary to have a name that could represent the past, present and what is yet to come. All of which I take into consideration in the creation of each pair of glasses. I pull ideas from the past, consider what’s “current” but

think it’s also very important when creating them to keep in mind the future, so they can stand the test of time. Tell us about some of your colour choices and developments within this collection. I wanted Age Eyewear to stand out from other collections so I have placed a strong concentration on my colour choices. Instead of using plain black I’ve used black with bone on the inside. Instead of using just brown tortoiseshell I’ve done; sky blue, milky, green and yellow tortoiseshell. Everyone is different so I wanted to give people more of a choice to express their personalities through the glasses they choose to wear. Who is the AGE wearer? Someone with an individual sense of style, who likes to stand out from a crowd and enjoys life. How do you see AGE developing in the future? I’m currently working on new looks for next season, along side of a bag collection, which is in development, with a very simple aesthetic, focusing on good quality functional leather bags. Best thing about being back home in New Zealand? The people, everyone is so friendly and welcoming! Photography: Calypso Paoli Hair & Make-up: Ava Williams Model: Zoe Dunster at 62 Models

A.P.C. Anniel Beau Coops Karen Walker La Panoplie Penny Sage Sessun Standard Issue Swedish Hasbeens A premium vintage selection and more.... Osborne Lane, Kent Street, Newmarket www.pocketboutique.co.nz Ph 09 529 2167 facebook/pocketboutique 54

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D R E A M S F O R S A L E

T H E A U C K L A N D M U S E U M I S C U R R E N T LY H O S T I N G P E R H A P S T H E M O S T I M P O R TA N T F A S H I O N P H O T O G R A P H Y E X H I B I T I O N E V E R S E E N I N A O T E A R O A . ‘SELLING DREAMS’ IS A MA JOR EXHIBITION FROM THE ESTEEMED VICTORIA & A L B E R T M U S E U M I N L O N D O N T H AT C E L E B R AT E S O N E H U N D R E D Y E A R S O F FA S H I O N P H OT O G R A P H Y - H I G H L I G H T I N G T H E G L A M O U R , M Y S T E R Y A N D D R A M A O F T H E W O R L D ’ S M O S T S T R I K I N G FA S H I O N P H OT O G R A P H S . T H E E X H I B I T I O N F E AT U R E S I C O N I C W O R K S B Y C L A S S I C P H O T O G R A P H E R S S U C H A S A R T H U R E L G O R T, C E C I L B E AT O N , I R V I N G P E N N , R I C H A R D A V E D O N A N D D A V I D B A I L E Y, A L O N G S I D E B O L D C O N T E M P O R A R Y I M A G E S B Y M I L E S A L D R I D G E , C O R I N N E D A Y, R A N K I N A N D T I M W A L K E R . Q U I T E S I M P L Y, A M U S T S E E . . .

John French, Skater wears a Digby Morton fur trimmed velvet coat, city gentleman Michael Bentley in the background, London. Daily Express, 1955 © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Arthur Elgort, Wendy Whitelaw, Park Avenue. Personal picture taken on American Vogue fashion shoot, July 1981 © Arthur Elgort / Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Erwin Blumenfeld, Model and Mannequin, American Vogue Cover, 1 November 1945 © Estate of Erwin Blumenfeld / Victoria and Albert Museum, London

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Ronald Traeger, Twiggy wears Twiggy Dresses Battersea Park, London. Unpublished Fashion Study for British Vogue, Young Idea, July 1967© Estate of Ronald Traeger / Vogue The Condé Nast Publications Ltd / Victoria and Albert Museum, London

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S H O OT I N G S PA R ROW Ben Dundas spent time as a buyer, then designer at Federation, one of Aotearoa’s premier streetwear brands yet he always had a fascination for homeware, things that made his home look and feel better. Thus was born Shooting Sparrow, a streetwear-inspired homeware brand. Shooting Sparrow is a collection of candles, caps, ceramics, pillow cases and plates that espouse Ben’s desire to offer something different in the home. Ben references things that are personal to him, including his own ‘thumbs up’ fist for a candle and an anchor candle that represents his whanau’s seafaring nature. Shooting Sparrow is available in 13 stores across NZ, including

Lee Ann Yare’s Collected store in Mt Eden and of course online. We asked Ben to tell us more: Do you like Sparrows? Yeah, they are cute little winged creatures…but I wouldn’t shoot one ha ha...You father was a captain! What sort of seagoing vessel was he a captain of? Yes he was, he went to sea when he was 17, worked on the container ships mainly I think. He really took on the idea of the being a captain: smoked a pipe and and a parrot (really a budgie) on his shoulder ha ha… My brother is also a captain on ships, I really missed out on the gene! You have some interesting scents for your candles, how do you go about sourcing them and deciding on the scents? I think the big thing is trying to make them

more relatable to people… I have renamed a lot of the scents with the idea to provoke memories/thoughts associated with the smells. Each scent has a little phrase written on it to do so… e.g. Fig + Cassius it’s like walking through a magical garden with pixies. What other homeware concepts are you working on for Shooting Sparrow? Yeah, there are a lot of things happening, too many ideas but I just want to develop the brand slowly and do it properly, I think it is easy to get carried away and then you start making mistakes… I want to expand what I am already doing and add a few new areas to the range…

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LETITROLL T H E R E I S A PA S T/ F U T U R E / P R E S E N C E A B O U T A U S T R A L I A N D E N I M L A B E L R O L L A’ S , A D E N I M R E F L E C T I O N I N F U S E D W I T H A M O D E R N S E N S E O F F R E E D O M B O R N O F T H E C O A S TA L A N D U R B A N L I F E S T Y L E S O F F O U N D E R S A N D Y PA LT O S A N D S A R A H G I L S E N A N . Y A S M I N E G A N L E Y R O L L S O U T T H E Q S . . .

Yasmine Ganley: Tell us about your experiences working for other denim companies prior to Rolla’s. Sarah Gilsenan and Andy Paltos: We both worked for Lee and Wrangler Australia, with most of our time spent at Wrangler as the men’s and women’s head designers for about 8 years all up. It’s actually how we met! It was great working for an iconic denim brand with such history and an amazing archive to draw on. We would travel the world seeing the most amazing vintage denim collections and meeting some really interesting knowledgeable people. It was a great learning experience on every front. When did you guys start Rolla’s, and what were your motivations behind the label? We started Rolla’s 2 years ago. We really wanted to do something that drew more on our personal experiences growing up in Australia. We did a lot of our denim collecting here, not of the usual heritage stuff, but more of the fashion jeans that were around in the 70’s and 80’s like Faberge among others. Stretch denim was being used more in a way that was fashionable and fun and was much less serious. It wasn’t complicated – it was about looking good and that was about it! After coming from brands that were pretty hefty, we really loved that more simple, free approach and felt there was room for something like that out there. We also loved the idea of doing something that was Australian-based rather than American, which many denim brands tend to draw on. We just grew tired of referencing things that we didn’t experience and felt the good stuff was already here! Who is the Rolla’s girl/ guy? They appreciate vintage but are not too serious about it. They are creative, confident and relaxed but still care about looking and feeling good. I love your campaign images, can you tell us a bit about them? The brand is really influenced by a time when we grew up in 60

coastal Australia, so it’s a bit nostalgic but also with a bit of the more modern urban life we live now. We wanted to embrace that relaxed yet sexy thing that Aussies do so well, but with a modern, simple fashion feel at the same time. We discovered the work of Akila Berjaoui and we felt like she was on the exact same page. The shoots are a direct collaboration of the three of us, it just works so easily - we barely have to talk it out which we love (we’re big fans of not over thinking!) and so we’ve shot with her ever since. Denim is such a traditional fabric with so much history woven into it. Why did you choose denim? And how do you balance the tradition with the modernism of the fabric within your collections? Denim can be flattering and versatile. It’s also nostalgic. And it can be a blank canvas. We try to keep it about just looking and feeling good and not get too bogged down in traditions unless we feel it will work. As a result, the balance is just there – modern fabrics that feel good and perform well with some of the traditional details that we know work and flatter. Why do you think we keep coming back to denim? It has the rare ability to stand for so many different things depending on what you do with it and how you wear it. Not many things can do that. It’s universal and continually evolving. It never gets boring. Where do you feel denim is sitting in a fashion sense, right now? We feel like it’s at its absolute broadest right now – there are so many types…it sits across all areas, it’s a staple really. What is inspiring you for your next season? We are always inspired by Aussie nostalgia - pub rock bands, the coast, the city – we tend to draw on these things each season and add a splash of whatever it is at the time that we’re into. Lately it’s been old school surf looks – shrunken sweaters, ankle bashing jeans worn back with ripple sole boots! We have the boots coming out for Winter 14. Tell

us about how you two can work, play, live (and love!) together. How does Rolla’s operate between the two of you? We started out working together and became friends so we had that base already. We both really love what we do, so it’s an easy transition (most of the time!) between work and home life. We never really stop, we’re always talking ideas, the next shoot or range. We’re both creatives so designing is number one for both on respective genders, then Andy takes on a lot of the branding stuff as he has a graphics background and we collaborate on shoots, imagery and sort of juggle the rest between us depending on who comes up with the best idea at the time! Tell us a bit about where you work/live and why you choose to base yourselves here? We live and work in inner city Melbourne, on the ‘northside’ as it’s known. We love the fact you have to scratch the surface a little around here to get the goods. It’s not at all shiny and pretty but there is so much inspiration all around, from the streets, to the pubs and the parks (which we call the beaches of the north). So much of Melbourne’s cultural heart is in these areas. And most importantly there is good coffee everywhere! What was the most inspiring thing you have recently seen/heard/tasted? Musician Lorde is pretty inspiring – she is talented beyond her years and gorgeous. We fanned out when she came by the store recently and discovered she wears Rolla’s! How would you guys spend a typical day off? We have just had a baby, so all our time is with her. We love going to the park and just walking around Melbourne’s ‘hoods or going to the gallery. Australian summers mean......? Fish and chips for dinner at the beach and night trips to the milk bar for icy poles.

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HEKAAKANOAHAU H E K A A K A N O A H A U ( I A M A S E E D ) I S A C O L L A B O R AT I O N O F W O R K S B Y H U S B A N D A N D W I F E D U O J A S O N N AT H A N ( C A R V E R - P O U N A M U ) ( N G A P U H I , N G AT I W H AT U A ) , K I R I N AT H A N ( W E A V I N G , F A S H I O N ) ( N G A P U H I , TA I N U I ) A N D A C C L A I M E D P H OT O G R A P H E R D AV I D K S H I E L D S . S O FA R T H E I R V I S I O N H A S B E E N A T W O - A N D - A - H A L F Y E A R J O U R N E Y T H AT H A S O R G A N I C A L L Y D E V E L O P E D I N T O M A N Y S T O R I E S A B O U T M A O R I I N T O D AY ’ S W O R L D. E A C H O F T H E I N D I V I D U A L S S H O T F O R H E K A A K A N O A H A U A R E O F M A O R I D E C E N T, T H E Y S H A R E N O T O N L Y T H E I R P H Y S I C A L B E A U T Y B U T A L S O T H E I R W H A K A PA PA ( G E N E A L O G Y ) A N D P E P E H A . E A C H H AV E B E E N S P E C I F I C A L LY C H O S E N BY J A S O N , K I R I A N D D A V I D T O PA R T I C I PAT E . H E K A A K A N O G R O W S I N M A N A W I T H E A C H G E N U I N E I N T E R A C T I O N , K O R E R O ( C O N V E R S AT I O N ) T H AT E V O K E S E M O T I O N B Y A L L I N V O LV E D , T H E S E R A R E A N D S T U N N I N G M O M E N T S N O W F O R E V E R C A P T U R E D . . .

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K I R I N AT H A N TA L K S U S T H R O U G H T H E P R O J E C T: H E K A A K A N O A H A U I S A C E L E B R AT I O N A N D P O R T R A Y A L O F T H E S T R E N G T H A N D B E A U T Y O F O U R P E O P L E S E T O N O U R L A N D . C R O S S I N G PAT H S W I T H D A V I D W A S O N E O F T H O S E M E E T I N G S T H AT W A S D E S T I N E D T O H A P P E N . T H I S J O U R N E Y I S R A W A N D T R U T H F U L I N E V E R Y S E N S E . W E H AV E A D O P T E D ( W H A N G A I ) D AV I D I N T O O U R W H A N A U ( FA M I LY ) W E L O V E H I M ! ! . . . T H E R E H AV E B E E N S O M A N Y O C C A S I O N S O V E R T H E L A S T F E W Y E A R S W O R K I N G O N T H I S P R O J E C T T H AT H A V E B R O U G H T G R O W N M E N A N D W O M E N T O T E A R S , I T H A S B E E N A N D C O N T I N U E S T O B E A N E X C I T I N G , H O N E S T J O U R N E Y T H AT T O U C H E S P E O P L E ’ S H E A R T S . S A R A H A N D E L M A N O F C O L E T T E G A L L E R Y PA R I S A S K E D D A V I D T O C R E AT E S O M E W O R K S A N D W E A R E W O R K I N G T O WA R D S H AV I N G H E K A A K A N O A H A U C O M P L E T E D E A R L Y 2 0 1 4 . T H I S I S A N I N C R E D I B L E O P P O R T U N I T Y, A LT H O U G H I T I S E S S E N T I A L T O U S T H AT W E S H O W AT H O M E B E F O R E TA K I N G T H E W O R K O F F S H O R E S O W E A R E C U R R E N T L Y I N N E G O T I AT I O N W I T H T H E A U C K L A N D M U S E U M T O S E E W H AT M I G H T B E A C H I E V E D A S O U R O F F I C I A L L A U N C H A N D F I R S T E X H I B I T I O N . R A C H A E L A N D G R A N T H AV E S U P P O R T E D U S AND THE WORK SINCE THE VERY BEGINNING! IT IS THE PEOPLE WHO SEE SOMETHING IN Y O U , S O M E T H I N G I N Y O U R W O R K T H AT W I L L A LW A Y S B E H E L D C L O S E T O O U R H E A R T S . . . . B E C AU S E O F T H E I R A RO H A W E A R E S H A R I N G A F E W MOM E N TS W I T H YO U NGA MIHINUI KIRI XXX

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RIGHTHERE R I G H T N OW F R O M M O R N I N G T I L L N I G H T, O V E R T H R E E C O N S E C U T I V E W E E K S , A S T R E A M O F R E M A R K A B L E YO U N G P E O P L E C A M E O U T O F A U C K L A N D ’ S W O O D W O R K A N D U P FA R T O O M A N Y S TA I R S T O T H E C I T Y S T U D I O O F C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R A N D P H O T O G R A P H E R A D A M B R YC E . S O M E P O S E D, S O M E D A N C E D, OT H E R S S T O O D S T O I C . T H E Y W E R E D R E S S E D U P A N D D R E S S E D D O W N , N E R V O U S , C O N F I D E N T. T H E Y A N S W E R E D Q U E S T I O N S - W H AT D O Y O U D O ? W H AT D O N ’ T Y O U D O ? D A N C E R S , P O E T S , M O D E L S , S P O K E N W O R D ARTISTS, KIDS WHO MAKE AND DO AND FIGHT AND DREAM. SOME WERE FRIENDS OF A DA M’S A N D OT H E R S H E ’ D N E V E R S E E N B E F O R E , BU T A L L O F T H E M W E R E K I D S H E W I L L C O M E T O K N O W W E L L . B E C A U S E T H E S E K I D S A R E W H AT ’ S N E X T. A D A M B R Y C E H A S T H R O W N H I M S E L F S I N G L E - M I N D E D L Y I N T O T H E D I S C I P L I N E O F P H O T O G R A P H Y, F O L L O W I N G A G L O B A L L Y R E C O G N I S E D C A R E E R I N C R E AT I V E D I R E C T I O N A N D F A S H I O N D I R E C T I O N . H I S B O O K P R O J E C T, E N T I T L E D R I G H T H E R E R I G H T N O W, S P E A K S A M E S S A G E . A N G E L A B E VA N F I N D S O U T M O R E . . .

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This page: Sam Lee, photographer Opposite: Jessica Grubisa, fashion designer T h e H o m e O f B l a c k M a g a z ine O nline

Jimmy Mac, musician

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Oliver Gilbert, artist

Angela: How were these particular young people chosen for this project? Adam: The list is by no means definitive, it was organic, I asked people to be a part of the book, then I asked those people to show me other people they admired... I could have gone on for ever, the more people I discovered, the more I found that the depth of talent is even greater than I thought! It’s impressive out there! This is merely a capsule of a story, a story that says, there is massive talent out there, they are young and hungry, work with them and work for them! How was the project put together? I wanted to capture a moment in time. I didnt want to make an opinionated list of who’s best or anything like that.. I wanted to merely say this is here and now. For this reason, I shot the entire book within a month... actually about 3 days.. assembling people altogether 68

in my studio and trying to just capture them as them. Whats going on elsewhere in the world right now that excites you? And what relevance does it have to our young creative community in NZ? I think this is a really interesting time - it’s a time of change. The thing that excites me most is the emergence of new talent around the world - new photographers, stylists, creatives; and with that a whole new eye and vision. The references have changed, and the old way of doing things has become irrelevant. There is a new way of making work and there is a new way of looking at art and fashion. We’ve past that stage of lo-fi, and we’ve reached a much more exciting era of taking advantage of resources and technology, and in a whole new way. What’s most exciting about this and having met more and more of the talent in this book, is that the Internet and the ever

merging sense of globalisation has meant the young people of NZ are much more knowledgable and relevant than we’ve ever been. Who’s tables do you hope this book ends up on? Anyone who’s despondent about NZ’s creative industry. I want people to see this book and be reminded or told that there is an amazing group of ambitious and progressive talent out there. NZ is not stagnant, it’s going places. But, more than anything, I want this to end up on the desks of those who hold the power, I want them to look through the book, and then take the time to look these people up and work with them - I want them to show them the respect they deserve and give them something to aspire to by understanding their new way of thinking. store.adam-Bryce.com

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THE G R A D UAT E S I N A N A G E O F R A P I D LY C H A N G I N G T R E N D S A N D FICKLE CONSUMER DESIRES, MOST DESIGNER S WILL PRODUCE T WO TO FOUR RANGES A YEAR, O F T E N D E S I G N I N G C O L L E C T I O N S I N O N LY A F E W W E E K S . G R A D U AT E S , B Y C O N T R A S T, A R E G I V E N T W O T O T H R E E Y E A R S T O F I N E -T U N E T H E I R A E S T H E T I C INTO AN ABRIDGED RANGE OF ESSENTIAL PIECES, C O N C E N T R AT I N G T H E I R C R E AT I V I T Y A N D S K I L L I N T O T H I S O N E C O L L E C T I O N . A S T H E C R E AT O R S O F O N E O F F R A N G E S W H I C H M AY N E V E R B E R E P R O D U C E D F O R A M A S S M A R K E T, T H E G R A D S O C C U P Y A U N I Q U E P O S I T I O N I N T E R M S O F T H E C R E AT I V E C H O I C E S O P E N T O T H E M A S D E S I G N E R S . W H I L E E S TA B L I S H E D B R A N D S , E S P E C I A L LY I N A M A R K E T A S S M A L L A S N E W Z E A L A N D, FA C E S I G N I F I C A N T P R E S S U R E T O L E T C O M M E R C I A L C O N S I D E R AT I O N S I N F L U E N C E T H E I R D E S I G N C H O I C E S , G R A D U AT E S R E TA I N A F R E E D O M FROM SUCH CONSTRAINTS WHICH ALLOWS THEM T O P R O D U C E C O L L E C T I O N S W H I C H T R U LY R E F L E C T THEIR AESTHETIC SENSIBILITIES. T H E S E S I X , A L L O F A U T U N I V E R S I T Y, A R E A C U T E L Y A W A R E O F T H E T E N S I O N B E T W E E N C R E AT I N G A N ARTISTIC WORK AND A COMMERCIAL PRODUCT W H I C H I S I N H E R E N T I N T H E I R C H O S E N F I E L D. SOPHIE CURLETT WRITES...

Photography: Charles Howells Creative director: Thistle Brown Fashion Editors: Thistle Brown, Seb McGirr-Hunt & Dylan Richards Hair: Stefan Knight using Original & Mineral Make-up: Carolyn Haslett using M.A.C Cosmetics Nails: Tanya Barlow at Hellotanya Models: Hannah and Mirella at 62 Models, Evelyn Rose and Nick Reid at Red 11. Lizzie at Clyne

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S O P H I A H A T T I N G H Sophia Hattingh’s silk slips and leather dresses with plunging laser-cut necklines are, she says, almost too sexy to be easily worn. Yet it is this element of slight impracticality, the ‘editorial’ quality, which elevates her clothing to the level of the aspirational, which makes it high fashion. Buyers are looking to sell her slip dresses as lingerie, but she likes that she was able to create risqué pieces as a grad without having to consider

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functionality. There is nothing wrong with the occasional slipped nipple on the runway, after all. Sophia, like all the others, has a clear idea of where she would like her collection to take her. She likes designing for women, for the female figure, she says, and would like her own label, to work more with silks and drapery, to collaborate with artists, to convert her ideas into lingerie.

Other graduates have chosen to tread the fine line between the avant-garde and the commercial. Greta Bannister’s range of brightly coloured wrap maxi skirts are an ode to the lost art of dressing up. She emphasizes that her focus was on wearability and making elegance uncomplicated, but it is clear that she made no sacrifices for the sake of mass appeal

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in creating her ‘functional eveningwear’. Heavy with fabric and complete with French seams and deep pockets, they are as luxurious as they are eminently practical. Having already sold several through Pearl boutiques, Greta is planning a second collection of reversible and wool skirts for the winter season.

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Another of the grads pushing the boundaries of design is Sophie Fenton, who was prompted to make her Rhino-skull shoes after realising the extent to which commercial apparel design is failing to utilise emerging technologies and manufacturing techniques. Each pair was digitally modelled to fit a particular foot shape before being 3D printed, and then

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finished with velvet flocking, or electroplated in 24-carat gold or copper. By making shoes that can only be described as works of art, she sought to push the boundaries not only of what we wear, but also of what a 3D printed object might be expected to look like, and to re-examine traditional methods and materials of shoemaking.

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K A J U R The extended design process appears to have encouraged the grads to pare-back the gratuitous details which we associate with fast, seasonal fashion. Kayla Jurlinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection aspires to timelessness with its textured knit coats and oversized dusters. She says she is inspired by the transformative effect of fashion, and sought to create investment pieces rather than trend guided fashion. Like most of the other graduates,

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she worked in fashion alongside her degree, and notes the positive reception she has had from the industry in response to her work. Fashion loves youth, and while graduates gain valuable experience from working with established brands, those brands also benefit from having the fresh perspective of someone more attuned towards what is new and exciting.

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Tom Press wants to make clothes that push the boundaries of existing fashion, but is quick to acknowledge the commercial realities of product design. There has already been significant interest in his range of minimal, oversized menswear, and he acknowledges that the simplicity of his pieces does give them some mass appeal. Yet his aesthetic comes from his own interest in minimalism,

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on which he did his thesis, and from an attempt to minimise excess, to cut back to the essentials of what one truly needs. The only guy out of our six, Tom says the attraction to fashion design comes from the challenge of making New Zealand men interested in pushing the boundaries of clothing and the excitement of being part of what is still an underdeveloped, but burgeoning, industry.

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Some graduates, like Chelsea Beale, clearly embraced their opportunity to create pieces which elevate apparel to the level of the artistic. Inspired by mid-century modern design and bold shapes, Chelsea describes her range as so oversized as to be “slightly unwearable” and says that she deliberately sought to challenge conventional views of menswear by playing with size, fit and shape. Aware that her pieces are not likely to be worn by the average man on the Auckland street, she envisages her brand, See Beale, as a fluid creative identity and a platform for other projects, rather than just a ‘label’, and is currently pursuing styling work. While she is thrilled when people do want to buy her pieces, Chelsea maintains that what is most important to her is maintaining the integrity of her design ethos. Great art sticks, she says. It transcends phases and states. What is most important for her is to create work that transcends phases, trends, even genders, and to create stickability, regardless of the public expectation that designers in her field should revise their aesthetic ideas every six months.

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SHOREDITCH T A L E S

D U K E O F U K E As the name might suggest the Duke of Uke is Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one and only Ukelele and Banjo Emporium. Stocking a wide range of ukeleles, banjos and guitars of all sorts it is also a community hub offering ukelele courses, lessons, gigs and events. Owner Matthew Reynolds (pictured) is obviously an accomplished player and we dig his style! A must-visit then for the Wellington Ukelele Orchestra when they are in town. 88 Cheshire St, London E2 6EH, United Kingdom +44 20 3583 9728

THE SHOREDITCH DISTRICT OF LONDON HAS LONG BEEN A HOME OF T H E B O H E M I A N , T H E A R T I S T A N D T H E C R E AT O R . F R O M S H A K E S P E A R E A N D C H R I S T O P H E R M A R L O W E T O D A M I E N H I R S T, T R A C E Y E R M I N A N D A N D Y W E AT H E R A L L , S H O R E D I T C H E X E M P L I F I E S C R E AT I V E L O N D O N . M O R E R E C E N T L Y I T H A S B E E N A H U B O F C R E AT I V E I N D U S T R Y A N D D O T. C O M S B U T I T I S A L S O H O M E T O M A N Y F A S C I N AT I N G F A S H I O N A N D R E TA I L S T O R E S . A L E X F O R S E Y G R A B S H I S C A M E R A A N D L O C AT E S F O U R S U C H S T O R E S F O R B L K O N B L K .

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GRENSON,THEGOODSHOE

Created in 1866 by shoemaker William Green, Grenson has long been a go-to store for high quality Britishmade boots, brogues and shoes. All Grenson shoes are “Goodyear Welted”, a process invented in the 1800’s in England that is a time consuming way of making shoes, but means that the product lasts longer than any other type of shoes. It also means that the shoe can be re-soled many times over making them an investment. With its homely wood-panelled walls and rustic exterior the Grenson store oozes tradition, equally, the coloured brogues in the window are anything but traditional. Thanks to store manager Johnathan Swanston for showing us the ‘good shoe’. 18 Hanbury street, London E1 6QR 0207 377 8099

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There’s no doubt that Blondies’ Deborah Harry is advancing in age but only the brave would call her vintage. Blondie’s Vintage store in Spitalfields however is a proud home to beautiful things from days gone by. Clothing, footwear, accessories and jewellery, with handbags a specialty, Blondies’ premium eras are the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s. Thanks to Kunie Kugil (right). Blondie Vintage Clothing. Unit 2, 114-118 Commercial Street London E1 6NF. Open Mon-Sun 11am - 7pm 0207 247 0050

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Levisons Vintage Clothing in Brick Lane stocks a unique selection of hand-picked classics which reflect owner Michael Levison’s appreciation of timeless style throughout the early to mid 20th Century. The store hosts a stellar collection of quality traditional English men’s and women’s tailoring, military, workwear and knitwear. Thanks to Michael (above left) and Ricardo McDonald (above right). 1 Cheshire Street, London E2 6ED

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BEAUTY FROM THE INSIDE Matt Benns is a senior stylist at Stephen Marr Ponsonby and a regular collaborator with Black. Matt has been styling for 7 years, he is a member of the Stephen Marr creative team and is creative director for Sans Seuticals available at Lucy and the Powder Room. Stefan Knight met him for a coffee and a chat about what’s happening in his world. STEF ~ What have you been up to recently? MATT ~ I’ve just finished doing our seasonal Sans Seuticals How-To series with Sophy Phillips that was shot by Oliver Rose. The Stephen Marr creative team also just shot our new campaign for BLKONBLK with Karen Inderbitzen-Waller. Lauren Gunn our creative director leads but it’s a collaboration of all of our ideas. There were loads of wigs and mullety hairpieces with great textures and then contrasting looks with glossy shiny blow dried hair, there were a few really fluid colours like a bright yellow blonde that I loved. We used Original & Mineral (O&M) high lift and a CCT Toner that gave a glossy gold reflect for that blonde and we dyed all of the wigs especially for the shoot. I wanted to ask you about Trends, what are you loving about hair for this summer? For Summer I’m into smooth, shiny, luxe, expensive hair that has an airy, fluffy finish and crazy new textures for the beach. I did a really great thing for the Sans campaign where I knotted the hair over and over, then sprayed it with O&M Ocean Spray and heated it, that gave cool texture. For colour I’m into solid subtle changes. Styles I like are loose and low, I like the idea of of a ponytail as if the ribbon is falling out or else a really low, loose, soft braid. If a girl with waist-length natural hair colour came in and asked you

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for a makeover what would you do for summer? Hmmm, I would cut it a little maybe to just below boob length and lighten it about 2 shades with a full solid colour, I love how the new high lift colours keep the natural reflects of the original colour. A longer length is great for summer, I would show her some blow dry techniques, recommend the right products and show her how to bust out the tongs if she needed to. I’d go over some easy to do hair up styles or a low pony or braid. Is the styling lesson something that you do for your clients regularly? It is yes, I think it’s really important as a stylist to see your clients looking good when you run into them out and about, you want to see the styles you’ve created being done well. I normally do a first basic lesson and a week later get them back for a technique tutorial. Is this something that you offer to people in general, whether they are a regular client or not? Yes totally. What kind of hair up style would you show our girl for summer? Maybe a style with braiding, taking sections of hair randomly all over the head and loosely braiding them, a kind of a mash-up of braids that she could pin up in an irregular way. Soft and beautiful. It sounds really cool, almost Roman. Yes but not formal or tight looking. Almost as though she’s a Roman goddess who had a handmaiden to do her hair and then she got chased around the temple by a load of horny Gladiators till her hair looked the right amount undone. Ha ha ha… YES! What about products for summer? I think a leave in treatment like O&M No Knot. Wash and towel dry your hair and comb it through then maybe add a little O&M Frizzy Logic and leave it to dry naturally for beautiful soft nourished hair. I also love Kiehls Creme with Silk Groom, it gives hair a natural looking day old finish but doesn’t weigh it down. Great for finishing, smooth a little into the ends.

I also love O&M Rootalicious Mousse, it has a great direction nozzle, apply it to damp hair and dry it into the hair using your fingers to push the roots upwards or even tip your head upside down. Get it bone dry and then brush it out, it’s great, it doesn’t go powdery and has a good finish. You know I was on a shoot recently and there were a few girls with long hair and I asked them if they brush their hair regularly, it was strange but none of them did. Do you think it’s important to brush? Absolutely. Every girl needs a good Mason Pearson Boar Bristle Brush, home care is really important. You need beautiful hair to get beautiful results. You do it for your face, moisturize, have facials, why not do it for your hair. I was going to ask you about that, what is the right kind of home regime? It’s important to be prescribed the correct shampoo and conditioner and use it as advised. I also tell my clients to do a Sunday Shampoo, Sunday is a good day because you’re relaxed and you can make it a regular weekly thing. It’s really good to have that moment to themselves. So wash and towel dry your hair, apply Nourishing Ultra Plus from Sans Seuticals and comb it through with a wide tooth comb, wrap it around your head and pin it, then add a hot towel, leave it on for 5 mins and rinse. How often should they do this? Once a week, hair can only absorb so much. Very good advice. From the beach to the beautiful disco. What about Christmas holiday plans? Andrey and I are flying to Noosa on Christmas night to stay with Jess Grubisa at her aunts, I’m going to come back really tanned!! Oh wow! I’m so jealous, I love Jess you’ll have an amazing time. Hey, it was so good talking and thanks for your wisdom and advice. It was really cool chatting, thanks Stef.

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N A I L I N G I T ! BEAUTY FROM THE INSIDE An ongoing series with Black Beauty Editor Stefan Knight about our fave beauty insiders who are beautiful on the inside. First up, Tanya Barlow aka Hello Tanya. STEF ~ Hello, Hello-Tanya. Tanya Barlow ~ Hi!! So how fun was our Nail art shoot for BLKONBLK? It was so nice to do a nail centred beauty shoot, you know the focus is normally on beauty and hair and stuff like that, so it’s nice to see a just-nails shoot, it was really, really fun to do. It really was! Especially with the situations that the shots were in, you know with the ghetto Kim K nails reaching for the condensed milk in the night, just so good, so much fun. Absolutely, that picture was about some fine-ass nail obsessed girl, waking up with carb cravings in the night and going to the fridge to raid the condensed milk can Ha ha ha... I just loved how we all took our collective ideas and threw them into the hat, then realised that they all worked so well together and that we were all on the same page. Yes, I mean how cool was all of Jessica’s amazing Spice Girls stash, who would’ve known? Genius! I was just talking to Rach and Grant about the pics and they were saying how they think it’s just Jessica Grubisa Nail Editor in every picture, but with our model Sakura standing in for her in the pictures. Jessica was so excited about this shoot I thought she might burst, ha ha ha… Ha ha ha ha…So what are you thinking about in terms of summertime and nails? Any trends, or is there anything that you think is particularly cool? Well it’s been pretty trendy for a while, but I’m really big on white nails for the summer it’s a bit of a cliche but I like it because it looks good. Also I like to add a matte top coat, like the Orly Matte Topcoat. It’s great, I mean you’re basically doubling your nail polish collection with just that one product, especially if you’re going for a fluoro colour and put a matte topcoat over it and they look like they’re rubberized, like Barbie doll nails. I did a really cool thing the other day with that new Orly black glitter polish and their Matte

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Topcoat which ended up looking like black sandpaper or something. Mmmmm… So cool because it stays sparkly but just takes away the actual shine of the texture. I mean texture is great in nail polish, I love it! Also I’m also really into cut-out shapes in nail polish, you know when you leave part of the nail nude or blank. So you could for example do an outline of a heart and kind of leave that nude and paint around it. So would you use a stencil for that? Well no, I would paint it very carefully, but you could use a stencil. For example you know those craft hole punch things, take the piece that’s cut out and get some stick from some sellotape, then place it on the nail and paint over it. That’s a good idea for someone to do on themselves it’s always the hardest thing getting both hands the same when you’re painting your own nails. That’s a great home tip for people to use. Yes, another really good home tip that I like sharing is to use a small nylon angle brush dipped in nail polish remover to clean up any over-painting after you’ve finished applying your polish. Just clean up around the nail and it makes such a difference to your home manicure. I’ve seen you using that before, thats a great tip for cleaning up messy left hand painting disasters! I just started using it on myself and thought actually what a great idea for shoots. Very cool yes! So if a girl came to you and wanted something versatile for the summer break, it’s going to need to see her through Christmas with family, maybe New Years Eve and a few messy parties, with a few trips to the beach along the way what would you do for her? Well first of all if she wants something to last for the break I would use Colour Gloss, which is amazing and lasts well. If she wants something that would go from parties to the beach, I’d probably say white again, and maybe I would do a glitter fade that would go from the cuticle upwards as opposed to the tip down and perhaps maybe a stud or a nail charm on her ring finger, just one single gold stud. Keep it simple, keep it chic and that would last for ages. If she has some nail

length I would go for a little stiletto shape. Very cool! I love this girl, I think she’s going to have a pretty great summer and her nails are going to look BANGING!! Hot! Is there anything else that you think is particularly cool for nails at the moment? Well, especially for people who struggle with painting their own nails well, nail wraps and nail apliquees are amazing. There’s a brand that I love called NCLA and they have an incredible range, with things like a girly lacey print or they have a Clueless range inspired by the film that say things like “as if” on them, those are awesome. Or else there are nail wraps that have like, pizzas on them or palm trees and they also have these amazing Galaxy prints, which are so popular right now. So these ones are pre-made galaxy prints, you just put them on and don’t have to spend hours on painting individual planets in 15 colours. Those sound fab, Can you do them yourself? You can definitely do them yourself. I believe that Sally Hansen have a range that you can buy here, maybe from Farmers. So what’s the process, how do you use them? With the majority of them, you just match them to your nail size, you apply them to the nail like a sticker, lining them up with your cuticle, then using the heat of your fingers you rub them onto your nail pulling them over the end of the nail and then you file them at a 45 degree angle which stops them from wearing away or pulling up. Then they’re ready and instantly dry. Brilliant!! They sound so good, so easy! Tell me darling, what are your summer plans? So I’m leaving to Hong Kong on Sunday and going to see my family and catch up with my best friend who I haven’t seen in about 6 years. I’ll be spending New Years there, which will probably be a quiet one to be honest. Then I’ll be back in mid-January. Cool, with loads of new nail things I bet. I’m hoping, yes! Happy Christmas and New Year darling! Happy Christmas, Happy Holidays... hellotanya.instagram

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TO U G H E RT H A N T H E R E S T Opposite page: Kia wears: Shirt by Zambesi This page: Alisa wears: Blazer by Zambesi, blouse (underneath) by Isabel Marant Etoile, blouse (over top) by Isabel Marant Etoile, necklace by Underground Sundae 102

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Opposite page: Alisa wears: Jacket by Kate Sylvester, shirt by Zambesi, t-shirt by Moodie Tuesday This page: Ashley wears: Top by Zambesi, slip by Kate Sylvester 104

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Opposite page: Ashley wears: Fur coat by Kate Sylvester, dress by Nom*d, necklace by Underground Sundae This page:Kia wears: Shirt and tie by Zambesi 106

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Photography: Charles Howells Fashion Editors: Seb McGirr-Hunt & Dylan James Richards Hair & make-up: Stefan Knight at 62 Management and Rachel Johanson Models: Dom and Olivia at 62 Models

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Stefan Knight notes: Opposite: Full foundation sur la plage. Sun protection from a silky matte satin base. Clean, beautiful, beachy and made up. Make-Up: Foundation: Tient Miracle Mascara: Hypnose Star Very Black Brows: Le Crayon Sourcils Blond Lips: Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Absolu Rouge 06 - all by Lancome Hair: Sans Seuticals Voluminising Hair Hydratant This page: Strong bold lip stain. Smudge on an electric shade of lip colour, build it up, blot it out and powder it on. Waterproof lip statements without a sticky finish. Make-Up: M.A.C. Prep and Prime Fortified Skin Enhancer spf 35 Powder: MAC Light Blot Powder Lips: MAC, Prolong True Red. Hair: Original & Mineral Rootalicious & Original Queenie.

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Opposite page: Breast plate by Zambesi, jacket by Lonely Hearts This page: Skirt by Kate Sylvester, bra by Lonely

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Stefan Knight notes: Opposite: Beachy textured hair is re-worked with a glamorous 40s twist. Set Your hair and pin it up for the ride to the beach then shake it loose, brush it out and let the elements do the rest. Make-Up: Dermalogica Solar Defense Booster, M.A.C. Lazy Sunday Casual Colour. Hair: Redken Guts 10, Redken Fabricate 03 This page: Big beachy brows. Tint and groom your brows for a bold beach look. Glossy gorgeous eyebrows looming large above a pair of statement sunnies. Always remember to re-curl your lashes after each dip in the ocean. Make-Up: Face: Dermalogica Protection 50 Sport on the body/Sheer Tint spf 2 Lips: Dermalogica Renewal Lip Complex, Blinc Brow Mousse, Blinc Mascara Amplified

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Opposite page: Coat by Kate Sylvester, bra by Lonely Hearts This page: Top by Zambesi, one piece by Lonely, bag by Marc by Marc Jacobs at Workshop

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Stefan Knight notes: Opposite: Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t burn, Bronze! Start by applying a full face of sunblock, let it set, then using a big bushy brush take charge of your tan and apply it where you want it. Major bronzer around the eyes makes blue and green eyes pop and a full face of bronzer makes every skin glow. Make-Up: Dermalogica Skinperfect Primer spf30, Bronzer-Cocktail Bronze Universal De Chanel, Lancome Tropiques Mineral, M.A.C. Mineralize, Dior Bronze, Nars Casino. Hair: Sans Seuticals Activator 7 Body+Hair+Face Oil This page: Helmut Newton conditioning treatment. Take a small bottle of conditioner and a wide tooth comb and slick out your hair into the perfect glamazon DO. Just sit in the sun and let its rays give you a deep penetration treatment. Make-Up: Dermalogica Sheer Tint spf20, Blinc Eyebrow Mousse, Bronze Universal De Chanel Hair: Original & Mineral Hydrate & Conquer

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Opposite page: Swimsuit by Kate Sylvester, hat by Company of Strangers This page: Dom wears: Swimsuit by Kate Sylvester Olivia wears: bra by Lonely, sweater by Company of Strangers, sunglasses by Karen Walker Eyewear

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Stefan Knight notes: Opposite: Punk rock’n’roll eyes. Use last night’s left-over eyeliner and fashion it into something fetching for a day of sunbathing. Waterproof mascara a must!! Make-Up: Kiehl’s Super Fluid UV Defense spf 50+ & BB Cream, Eyes: YSL Pure Chromatics Wet & Dry/Waterproof Eye Pencil Black Mascara: Singulier Waterproof, Lips YSL Rouge Pur Couture. Hair: Original & Mineral Frizz Logic This page: Shimmering metallic eye colour. Full force bold glossy eye colour, from the brow to under the eye, don’t scrimp on shimmering shadow. Make-Up: Nars Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturiser Eyes: Nars Cordura Eyeshadow/Illuminator/Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara: Nars Pure Sheer spf Lip Treatment Hair: Original & Mineral Hydrate & Conquer

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Photography: Charles Howells Concept & Art Direction: Stefan Knight & Jessica Grubisa Nail and Fashion Editor: Jessica Grubisa Nails: Tanya Barlow at Hello Tanya Make-up: Stefan Knight using M.A.C Cosmetics Hair: Tommy Stayton at Stephen Marr using O&M Model: Sakura at 62 Models

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Opening page: Vintage Chanel jacket, stylist’s own Nails: Lime Crime and OPI. Make-up: M.A.C Stud Eye brows, M.A.C Face & Body, M.AC Lips Morange 118

Opposite page: Dress by Thistle Brown, Hot Dog clutch, stylist’s own Nails: OPI Samoan Sand, White, Black Make-up: M.A.C. Stud Eye Brows, M.A.C. Face and Body, Chanel Bronze Universal, Chanel Rouge Allure 157 This page: Bag by Prada, all content, stylist’s own, t-shirt Chanel No 5 Nails: Lime Crime polish. Nail Charms by Hellotanya. B L KO N B L K I S S U E # 1

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Opening page: Dressing gown, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Nails: ORLY FX Pink Pixel. Nail Charms by Hex Nail Jewellery.

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Opposite page: Sweater by Kenzo, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Nails: OPI White. Eyeballs Look Sharp Store. Make-up: Brows: Lancome Le Crayon Sourcils Brun, base Lancome Tient Miracle 045, lips Lancome Absolu Rouge 130 This page: Nails: OPI Samoan Sand. Cat faces, Hellotanya. Make-up: M.A.C. Lips Chignon. Bubbles: Malin and Goetz Rum Body Wash

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U S E ONCE

A N D DESTROY Photography: Karen Inderbitzen-Waller Lighting & Digital: Delphine Avril Planqueel Creative director: Lauren Gunn Colour director: Gareth Martin Fashion editor: Hannah Lee Jade Hair: Jason Chong-Li, Matt Benns, Marsha Moran, Stanze Ruddock, Tommy Stayton, Ivan Leong Make-up: Sky Cripps Jackson, Anna Gaul, Ellen Galle, Ashley Skiffington Models: Johanna, Helena and Evelyn Rose at Red 11, Vinnie, Kizzie and Fred at 62 Models, Rhianon and Kendell at Clyne, Cedric at N Model Management, Morgan at RPD Rhianon wears: Suit and top by Now & Then 124

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Opposite page: Kizzie wears: Jacket and dress by twentysevennames, shoes by Kate Sylvester This page: Rhianon wears: Jumper by Rolla’s, shorts from Stolen Girlfriends Club archive, jewellery, model’s own Vinnie wears: Jumpsuit by Jeremy Scott x adidas, shirt, stylist’s own

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Opposite page - Freddie wears: Shirt by Neuw, pants, modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own This page: Freddie wears: Vintage shirt, denim top and jeans by Stolen Girlfriends Club Vinnie wears: Jumpsuit by Jeremy Scott x adidas 128

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Opposite page: Johanna wears: Dress by Kowtow, jewellery, model’s own This page: Kendell wears: Bodysuit by Kate Sylvester, vintage coat from Vixen, vintage shorts, stylist’s own Rhianon wears: Suit, top and trousers by Now & Then Kizzie wears: Vintage top from Vixen, skirt and boots by Kate Sylvester Freddie wears: Shirt by Neuw, pants, model’s own

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Kizzie wears: Jacket and dress by twentysevennames Johanna wears: Hat by Marmalade Helena wears: Bra by Lucy McIntosh, vintage undies from Vixen, earrings, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own 132

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I D ONâ&#x20AC;?T E VE N KNOW IF I SHOULD C A LL YO U BA BY Photography: Paul Empson Fashion Editor: Tilly Hardy at Stella Creative Artists Hair: John Ruidant at See Management NY Make-up: Vincent Oqundo at See Management NY Model: Maria Bradley at DNA Models NY

Dress by Ashish, shoes by Giuseppe Zanotti, ear cuff by Roberto Cavalli 136

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Opposite page: Dress by Roberto Cavalli This page: Fur gilet & leather trousers by Nap Sugar, jewelled bib by Julia Clancey, ring by Dominic Jones, heels by Roberto Cavalli

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Opposite page: Catsuit by Pam Hogg, earring by Sorapol, heels by Roberto Cavalli This page: Dress & heels by John Rocha, necklace by Dominic Jones ring (first finger) by Smith/Grey (middle finger) by Dominic Jones (little finger) by Smith/Grey Earrings by Rachel Entwistle 140

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Leather jacket by The Sway

I G OT A NEW ROSE I G OT HER G OOD

Photography: Thom Kerr at Independent Artist Management Hair & Make-up: Justin Henry at www.justinhenrybeauty.com using Makeup Forever and Kerestase Fashion editor: Infamous Uno Model: Holly Rose at Next/Red 11 Assistant Fashion Editor: Ms Fitz 142

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Opposite page: Patch leather t-shirt by Brooke Atwood, leather pants by Raif Adelberg This page: Velvet bustier by Missguided, bustier by Chromat, snake leather jacket by Raif Adelberg 144

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Opposite page: Hat and side cage jersey by Chromat, faux fur jacket by Missguided, t-shirt by Moodie Tuesday This page: Leather shorts by Sons of Heroes, pentagram suit 2 by Chromat, camera straps by Brooke Atwood 146

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Cross jacket by Jaime Lee Major, vintage denim shorts Special thanks to Theo Shot at: Brooklyn Photo Studio 148

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WALK (A MILE) IN MY SHOES Photography: Andy Eaton Fashion editor: Sara Dunn at Clicks & Contacts Hair: Roku at Saint Lukes Make-up: Shama using M.A.C Cosmetics Model: Lili Sumner at Next London Purple dress by Prada, gold polo neck by Acne, skirt by Antipodium, heels by Christian Dior 150

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Opposite page: Zip Tunic by Stella McCartney, plaid collared shirt (worn underneath) by Markus Lupfer, culottes by palmer/harding, wedges by Burberry This page: Jewelled trenchcoat by Burberry, suit jacket by Christian Dior, floral collared shirt by Preen Line

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Opposite page: Crop top, lace jacket and trousers by Christian Dior, shirt by palmer//harding This page: Gilet and trousers by Camilla and Marc, shirt by Stella McCartney, heeled sandals by Mila Schon

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Opposite page: Shirt by palmer //harding, jumper by Markus Lupfer, leather skirt by Antipodium, socks by We Love Colors, leather wedges by Burberry This page: Jewelled trenchcoat by Burberry, suit jacket by Christian Dior, floral collared shirt by Preen Line

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Opposite page: Jumper by Markus Lupfer, shirt (worn underneath) and skirt by Camilla and Marc, socks by We Love Colors, earrings by Miu Miu This page: Shirt (worn underneath) by Marni, sequin top by Saint Laurent, trousers, necklace and belt by Marni

Nail technician: Steph Mendolia at Caren Casting: Simon Lewis at Cast & Elect Photo assist: Lorenzo Roncaglione Digital assist: Nick Graham Photo assists: Alicia, Ellis Thanks to: Snap Productions 158

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Photography: Marissa Findlay Fashion editors: Elisabeth Findlay, Rachael Churchward, Dayne Johnston & Marissa Findlay Hair: Jason Chong-Li at Stephen Marr using O&M Make-up: Kie Kie Stanners using M.A.C Cosmetics Models: Kendell at Clyne and Jasper at N Model Mgmt

Jasper wears: Tank by Zambesi, trousers by Acne, boots by Rick Owens, glasses by Linda Farrow, pendant by Raf Simons

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Opposite page: Kendell wears: Sweat shirt by Raf Simons, shorts by Zambesi, visor by Maison Martin Margiela, shoes by Converse, socks stylists own. Orange make-up bag by Zambesi, ‘star’ earring and ‘love’ ring by Atelier Serge Thoraval This page: Kendell wears: Jacket by Rick Owens, jumpsuit by Zambesi, tank by Gareth Pugh, shoes by Linda Farrow, socks stylists own.

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Opposite page: Kendell wears: Sweatshirt by Maison Martin Margiela, dress by Zambesi, boots by Rick Owens. Jasper wears: Blazer by Acne, shorts by Zambesi, boots by Rick Owens, socks stylists own, sunglasses by Linda Farrow, bracelet and pendant by Raf Simons, rings by Maison Martin Margiela and Atelier Serge Thoraval This page: Jasper wears:T-shirt and shorts by Acne, jacket by Zambesi, sunglasses by Zambesi, pendant and bracelet by Raf Simons, shoes by Converse, socks stylists own.

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This page: Jasper wears: Sweat shirt by Acne, shirt by Zambesi, trousers by Zambesi, shoes by Maison Martin Margiela, socks stylists own Opposite page: Jasper wears: Sunglasses by Zambesi

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Kendell wears: Jacket and boots by Rick Owens, sunglasses by Linda Farrow, socks and bloomers by Zambesi, black ring by Raf Simmons. 168

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XX , I LOV E YO U Photography & styling: Karen Inderbitzen-Waller Lighting & Digital: Delphine Avril Planqueel Hair & make-up: Shirley Simpson using M.A.C Cosmetics Models: Amberley at N Model Management

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Opposite page: Kate Sylvester Audrey Polo Neck, Gloria Dress, KS Pumps This page: Kate Sylvester Blanket Cape, Dorothy Dress, Audrey Polo Neck, Mary Jane Pumps

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Opening page: Kate Sylvester Edie Jacket, Audrey Polo Neck, Olive Skirt, Mary Jane Pumps

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Opposite page: Kate Sylvester Nanette Top, Audrey Polo Neck This page: Kate Sylvester Blanket Cape, Audrey Polo Neck, Stella Skirt, KS Pumps

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Opposite page: Kate Sylvester Jean Dress, Sylvester Fur Coat, Audrey Polo Neck, KS Pumps This page: Kate Sylvester Odile Dress, Audrey Polo Neck, Mary Jane Pumps

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Opposite page: Kate Sylvester, Carmel Coat, Alexa Jumper, Audrey Polo Neck, KS Pumps This page: Kate Sylvester Sylvester Mosaic Top, Sylvester Mosaic Skirt, Audrey Polo Neck, Mary Jane Pumps Cut & Colour by Matt Benns at Stephen Marr 178

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U NW R I T E T H ATS O N G

Photography: Damien Nikora Fashion editor: Rachael Churchward Hair: Matt Benns at Stephen Marr using O&M Make-up: Stefan Knight using M.A.C Cosmetics Models: Andrey at Red 11, Amberley at N Model Management, Rhianon and Lily at Clyne

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Opposite page: Andrey wears: Workshop Denim Slim Fit Selvedge (Raw), Winter 14 collection available in store and online from February 14, Workshop Denim Workman Overshirt, Winter 14 collection available in store and online from February 14 This page: Rhianon wears: T by Alexander Wang top, in store now at Workshop, Acne skirt, in store now at Workshop, Alexander Wang Audrey Bootie, in store now at Workshop

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Opposite page: Rhianon wears: Helen Cherry Emma Blouse, Winter 14 collection available in store and online from February 14, Helen Cherry Pencil Skirt, Winter 14 collection available in store and online from February 14, Alexander Wang Audrey Bootie, in store now at Workshop This page: Andrey wears: Workshop Denim Mens Tailored Chino

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Opposite page: Amberley wears: Helen Cherry Tiffany Dress This page: Amberley wears: Jacket by Isabel Marant Etoile, Helen Cherry Slim Cuff Pant - Winter 14 collection available in store and online from February 14,

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Opposite page: Amberley wears: Shirt by Isabel Marant Etoile, in store now at Workshop This page: Andrey wears: Marc by Marc Jacobs Sweatshirt Hoodie, Workshop Denim Mens Tailored Chino? Fashion assists: Seb McGirr-Hunt and Dylan James Richards

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Opposite page: Leather jacket by Kate Sylvester, shirt by Zambesi, t-shirt by Moodie Tuesday This page: Top by Zambesi, slip by Kate Sylvester B L KO N B L K I S S U E # 1

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W E L C O M T O F R E B I R D A L A B A M

E E , A

Photography: Damien Nikora Fashion editor: Rachael Churchward Hair & Make-up: Stefan Knight using M.A.C Cosmetics and Original & Mineral Models: Ellie at Nova, Jasper at N Model Mgmt

Ellie wears: Crown Enkel Service t-shirt by Neuw and Dusters jean by Rolla’s, rings by Zora Bell Boyd (worn throughout) Jasper wears: Enkel tank by Neuw and Rosco Tapered jean by Rolla’s, rings by Zora Bell Boyd (worn throughout) 190

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Ellie wears: Raglan top by Deus Ex Machina and A.Overall by Abrand Jasper wears: Hard Work shirt by Rollaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and Iggy Skinny jean by Neuw 192

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Jasper wears: Worn Muscle top and Rosco tapered jeans by Rolla’s Ellie wears: Paint Splatter shorts by Abrand, top and belt, stylist’s own 194

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Ellie wears: A.Jacket by Abrand, A.Short by Abrand Jasper wears: Deus Denim Shirt by Deus Ex Machina, Brut Skinny jean by Rollaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 196

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Ellie wears: Worn Muscle top by Rolla’s Jasper wears: Rosco Tapered jean by Rolla’s Fashion assists: Seb McGirrHunt & Dylan James Richards Photo assists: Opal and Naz Nikora 198

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FLOCKOF H E A R T S

Photography: David K Shields Fashion editor: Katrina Shieles Hair & make-up: Dean P at Green Apple Italia, New Do Hairdressing using Kevin.Murphy Assistant fashion editor: Ellen Purtil Model: Alice at IMG Sydney Top by Just Cavalli 200

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Opposite page: Black Maxi dress by Red Valentino This page: White shirt by Lagerfeld, print blazer and jeans by Just Cavalli, multi strand necklace by Off The Runway 202

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Leather jacket and jeans by Just Cavalli, snake necklace and gold rings by ASOS 204

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Opposite page: Fur coat by Just Cavalli, necklace by Off The Runway This page: Dress by Red Valentino

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Opposite page: Coat and jeans by Just Cavalli, shirt by Red Valentino

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