Fashion
Interviews and photography by Sean Drakes
THE DESIGNER’S
APPRENTICES
Fashion
Previous page: SEXTING: Black net hoody and black triangle top bra, both by Anya de Rogue paired with patterned pleated mini-skirt, Pilar by Anya. Installation: "Selphone" by Palaver Pachenko Machocher George & Nadella Riley, shot at Alice Yard. Opposite: “I was an accidental tourist,” says Anthony Reid of his first exposure BONDING: Keive wears black suit with base to women’s wear designer Meiling. “My association with Meiling stitching, black and claret polka dot shirt with grew out of me running an errand for her in New York in 1996.” he pleated organdy trim by Anthony Reid. Installation: "Mine!" by Christian Alexis, shot recalls. at Bohemia. This association led to Reid being invited to her shows. As he tells it, one of his brutally honest critiques of a Meiling show made its way to her ears. Meiling responded by asking Reid to come and see her next collection before it’s shown and offer ideas. Soon he was styling for Meiling. Reid, who has been a flight attendant since 1991, says he was “humbled and magnified” by Meiling’s gesture. A decade later, the designer apprentice and his mentor are one of the most unique design pairings from the Caribbean. “Four years ago she encouraged me to step onto the ramp and say this is who you are,” shares Reid. Their process works this way: Reid distills his collection from the essence of Meiling’s women’s line, and they always show back-to-back. Reid defines his brand with exquisite tailoring and carefully selected fabrics. Clean and minimalist are the style cues he adheres to, his embellishments are confined to the use of ribbon, various styles of stitching, or layering fabric. The other breakout apprentice from the Meiling camp is Anya Ayoung-Chee, a native of New York now based in Trinidad. She launched her “Pilar” label last year with a youthful, vibrant and afrocentric collection influenced by the Babo Shanti. For her sophomore year, Anya has trained her eye on uniformity. This collection melds the functionality and notions attached to conventional, rigid and loose-fit uniforms to “make a statement about uniformity and what uniformity is about,” she explains. “I grew up with this idea that you must wear jeans and a tank-top to go to the mall,” shares Anya, who adds that her mission is to challenge the encoded dress code. “I am committed to informing Caribbean women that there is no need to dress by occasion.” Anya designs clothes that are separates with multiple applications. “It’s the essence of what I am trying to do to encourage individuality,” she says. Anya continues to draw her inspiration from the streets. “The ‘Sartorialist’ has made street fashion the fashion, and in a way what he was seeing is what I’m seeing. But I’m seeing it in an environment where it’s not cognitive as opposed to the streets of Manhattan, Paris, Milan and Tokyo where it’s entirely cognitive. At the same time, I remain committed to finding it where I’m from and merging it with elements I have the opportunity to see. Being on the streets of New York, Paris and Tokyo is always inspiring, but Trinidad continues to feed me with the best material I could possibly ask for.”
Fashion
Opposite: BOUDOIR: Denim half corset with camouflage detail, silver triangle top bra with velvet lining and black net circle shawl, all by Anya de Necklace and bracelet by Chejo. Rogue. Installation: "Starry Starry Night" by Lisa Moore for Lismoore Drapery & Interiors, shot at Alice Yard. This page: VOYEUR: Striped silk tunic with geometric open back and leather spine detail, Pilar by Anya. Earrings by Chejo. Installation: "Human Nature" by Jemima Charles, Renu Boodosingh and Raquel Vasquez La Roche, shot at Alice Yard.
Fashion
This page: WORKERS: Jovon wears claret corduroy trousers, black and red checkered trim shirt with black and red gros grain ribbon, paired with black and red check tie by Anthony Reid. Installation: "The Girls of Murray Street" by Richard Rawlins, shot at Bohemia. Opposite: BACKROOM: Jerome wears black jumpsuit/ coveralls with hand-dyed hoody by Anthony Reid. Installation: "Cc: Everybody" by Brianna McCarthy and Rodell Warner, shot at Brooklyn Bar.