Majestic and Mayan

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Majestic & Mayan Thrill-seeker Sean Drakes sampled the natural beauty of Belize and almost became a birdwatcher Photography by Sean Drakes

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he mysterious, absorbing night sky silenced every thought in my head. All I could do was lie back under the dazzling blanket of low-hanging stars and marvel as we darted across The New River to our first port of call.

The 90-minute river ride is the most exhilarating route to Lamanai Outpost Lodge (www.lamanai.com), an eco-friendly property comprised of 17 rustic cabanas nestled in a vibrant habitat teeming with wild black howler monkeys, crocodiles, 250 species of orchids and bromeliads, and just as many variety of vivacious birds.

Day two: Lamanai Outpost is a remote oasis that is one with nature. A cozy dining room, bar, lounge, reception and souvenir shop are compactly housed under one thatch-roofed structure, with open-air siding allowing for the crisp surround-sound of restless wildlife.

There are eight in our group of birders, novice hikers, and seasoned thrill-seekers. Lamanai, which translates to ‘submerged crocodile’ is also the name of the area. Roughly 50,000 Maya lived here between 1500 BC and 1700 AD. Situated north of Belize City, it is the jewel of the Orange Walk District which offers wilderness adventure and archaeological expeditions.

Our morning started with a guided museum visit for a briefing on Mayan life. The area underwent major excavation in the 20th Century, which unearthed buried temples that testify to ancient Mayan civilization that last longer than the Roman Empire. Archaeologists speculate that natural drought, deforestation and a drastic decline in

Opening page left: With hardly a ripple to mar its surface, Spanish Creek, at Crooked Tree Village in Belize, acts as a perfect mirror for the sky and clouds above.

Right – Despite the presence of ropes to hold onto, the high temple at Lamanai, one of the magnificent Mayan sites found in Belize, is a vertical challenge for even the most seasoned climbers. Opposite: At Lamanai Outpost Lodge, sunrise over the new lagoon is a serene and contemplative time for guests who slip quietly out onto the water in kayaks. Above: Mayan carvings and hieroglyphics, hundreds of years old, tell stories of a civilization that lasted longer than the Roman Empire.

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population caused the extinction of the Mayas. Mayan hieroglyphic decoders have learned that the carvings found on these ancient sites we came to tour, record sensational stories of war, peace and the exploits of powerful rulers.

Lamanai was a regional centre for a trade route that stretched from Mexico to Panama in the post-classic period: 1000A.D.—1500A.D. The trails that link the historical sites at Lamanai are well populated by ruthless mosquitoes that laughed at our repellent as they waged a tireless assault. By the time we scaled the High Temple, we considered the mosquito bites a worthwhile price for the breathtaking moment atop that majestic monument.

Descending the temple can reawaken a fear of heights—and there is no harness if you slip. I borrowed a move from the “Toddler’s Handbook on Getting Around” and let the seat of my pants brush each step as I breezed past those dismounting via the rope supplied.

Our visit was nearing its close. Lamanai Outpost had prescribed three other excursions to satisfy every appetite in our group. Birders set out before the rooster’s alarm to scout for gray catbirds, ringed kingfishers, great kiskadees and mangrove swallows. I opted to keep watch from my hammock for an ivory-billed woodpecker that invaded my dreams.

After dusk, the birders revisited the riverbank by boat to stalk nocturnal birds—which was more eventful than our hunt for crocodiles. The buzz from roaring through the pitch-black Crab Catcher Lagoon on an airboat heightened my desire to see our guide catch – and release – a crocodile. But that night, the crocs were just too elusive.

We navigated water, a highway, and dirt roads for a pit stop at Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, a retreat governed by the Belize Audubon Society. Derick Hendy, a Society staffer, gave us a round up of the village and this haven for migrating birds during the dry season.

Crooked Tree is noted for its abundance of cashew trees that fuel a fledgling cottage industry that produces cashew wine, jam, juice and vinegar. Each March Crooked Tree is the main attraction for its Cashew Festival (www.belizetours.com.bz/crooked-treecashew/crooked-tree-village.html).

A sampling of Verna Samuel’s hospitality and local cuisine at her Bird’s Eye View Lodge (www.birdseyeviewbelize.com) followed our cruise on Crooked Tree Lagoon and Spanish Creek, where we spotted flamboyant iguanas, jabiru storks and scarlet macaws. Not to be left out, our expert naturalist, Sam Tillett, steered us to his nine-room lodge (www.crookedtreebelize.com) for a preview. His manicured compound of tidy, budget-traveller rooms is where I’ll likely nest when I return for the Cashew Festival in 2009.

This page, top and bottom: Seeing much of the natural beauty as well as marvellous historic sites in Belize often means a journey by river as well as by dirt road. Opposite page, clockwise from top right: At Crooked Tree Village, this thatched cottage fits perfectly into its environment; under the lens of a keen photographer, Bernice Wade cracks cashews to extract the nuts within; there are so many species to see that bird watchers in Belize face the real prospect of a stiff neck at the end of day; Derick Hendy, of the Belize Audubon Society, which governs the wildlife sanctuary at Crooked Tree, displays the skull of a jaguar; local naturalist and tour guide, Sam Tillet, keeps his binoculars handy as he leads a group upriver.

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Belize is quiet, green, and largely rural according to the scenes that scrolled across the mini-bus windshield. The forested Cayo District, 90 minutes southwest of Belize City, was our next destination.

This region spans 2,000 miles and is known for cool creeks and dramatic waterfalls, like the Thousand Foot Falls that plunge 1400 feet. This stop is where the birders in our group really ran wild; more than 500 species have been counted in Belize, including keel-billed toucans and orange-breasted falcons.

Day four: The hut-style bungalows and lantern-lit main house at Pook’s Hill (www.poookshilllodge.com) are designed to preserve tranquillity and respect this 300-acre reserve and rainforest set in the foothills of the Maya Mountains.

Pook’s Hill is so bird-friendly that we got an up-close visit from a young spectacled owl that had fallen ill. Lodge co-owner Victoria Snaddon, originally from Trinidad, and her husband Ray, a native of South Africa, moved into rescue mode to syringe-feed and blow-dry the rain-drenched owl—the largest of its species in Belize. His recovery seemed likely as we geared up to go cave canoeing.

Rainwater created underground rivers and carved cave systems that were inhabited by deities and Mayan ancestors. In Mayan culture, caves (actuns) served as a portal to the Gods of the underworld and are where sacred rituals and sacrifices occurred. Skeletons, footprints and pottery are the discoveries on display in Belize’s 250 cave systems.

Our tour of Barton Creek Cave in Mountain Pine Ridge was a slow-paced drift through caves with cathedral ceilings as well as narrow sections that require crouching and some gut clenching. It’s believed that hundreds more caves are being safeguarded by the jungle. For a tour with an adrenaline boost there’s the zip line tour at Jaguar Paw Jungle Resort where you soar through the rainforest on cables 70 feet in the air.

As we reviewed our day-trip over cocktails before our communalstyle dinner, Mrs. Snaddon recounted the owl’s transition: “He regained some zest as he rested in a box, suddenly his eyes shot wide open, his head turned skyward then it slumped backwards and he was gone.”

Belize City is not the capital, but conveys the pulse of the country.

Victorian homes, a Philatelic Bureau, The Image Factory, Belize Creole Museum, and the manually-cranked Swing Bridge are among the city’s attractions and architectural gems. It is also a transportation hub for island-hopping.

To get to Ambergris Caye, the largest of the coral cayes in the Barrier Reef, we flew over Caulker’s Caye, once a hideout for marauding pirates. The water-taxi shuttling us to Belize Legacy Resort Opposite: With the rainforest as a backdrop, the hut-style bungalows at Pook’s Hill Lodge are designed to respect their surroundings and preserve the tranquility of this 300-acre reserve in the foothills of the Maya mountains. This page, top: Like a sentinel standing watch, this ceiba tree provides a perfect observation post for the many birds that inhabit the forests of Belize. Bottom: A communal dinner for weary travellers at Pook’s Hill is a welcomed opportunity to re-fuel after a busy day.

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(www.belizelegacy.com), skirts by the coastal condominium development boom happening on Ambergris Cay, a beach and dive destination.

Day six: The two-story cedar and mahogany condo units at Legacy claim a slice of the northern tip of Ambergris Caye. Villas are appointed with the modern comforts big city travellers relish. This isn’t a birding sanctuary but they are passionate about the environment and sustaining resources: Legacy filters seawater with reverse osmosis for its water supply.

Deep-sea excursions and water sports, spas and fine dining are the specialties that resorts here boast. Rafael Valdez, Legacy’s head chef, gives little reason to leave the resort to dine in San Pedro Town, the lively bistro and bar-laden district of Ambergris Caye. Citrus basil lobster, cashew-crusted shrimp with mango sauce, Cajun beer-battered conch strips…Valdez kept us very pleased.

Our three-hour trip to frolic in Shark Ray Alley in the Hol Chan Marine Reserve happened on the day with the best weather we’d seen all week. This gorgeous, shallow underwater playground spans five square-miles and allows snorkellers to interact with stingrays and nurse sharks. Visit www.travelbelize.org to learn about festivals and other engaging attractions in Belize.

Nightfall on Thursdays is lady’s night at Wet Willy’s in San Pedro Town. Kevin, my rock-climbing buddy from Connecticut, and I trailed the rowdy crowds to investigate what the hype was about. We found girl-next-door-types gyrating on a bar for T-shirts—Whoopee! Even after a strong drink of rum they didn’t rival the splendid show nature put on for us over the last six days.

For our farewell to Belize, Kevin and I awoke at 5 a.m., did yoga stretches on the beach then boarded a yellow kayak and paddled to the edge of the reef to be still, and welcome the sun.

Previouse page right: In San Pedro Town, this schoolboy, hands filled with good things to eat, is proof that children and ice cream are a winning combination anywhere in the world; left: These multi-coloured pirogues are still a popular method of water transport in Belize. This page top left: Legacy Resort; top right: San Pedro Town is the lively, bistro-laden section of Ambergris Caye; bottom: The beach at Legacy Resort Opposite, clockwise from top right: Armando, one of the friendly staff members from the Legacy Resort, strikes a pose for the photographer in San Pedro Town; a tiny jewel on wings, this hummingbird is one of the many exotic species to be seen widely in Belize; Mr. and Mrs. Vasquez keep an eye on passers-by from the verandah of their home in San Pedro Town; Marlon, one of the waiters at Legacy Resort’s restaurant, lays tables before the evening rush; a visitor takes the plunge at Shark Ray Alley in Hol Chan Marine Reserve, a snorkeler’s paradise

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