Tranquil& Tantalizing
Text and photography by Sean Drakes
A shady siesta on Pigeon Point beach. Opposite page: Carnival Tuesday in Portof-Spain, poolside at the Trinidd Hilton.
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ejuvenating tranquility embraced by fragile charm is what distinguishes Tobago from its flamboyant big sister, Trinidad. Every year carnival revelers awake on Ash Wednesday and head to Trinidad’s airport with a numbing hangover and a prescription to indulge Tobago’s deserted beaches, luxe seaside resorts, and hearty Creole cuisine like curry crab and dumplings. The summer season and a popular springtime regatta are the other periods when Tobago experiences a delightful influx of souls hungry for soothing. Tobago is set near the southern end of the necklace of jade green islands that drape the Caribbean Sea from Cuba to Venezuela. The lull that dwells in tiny fishing villages and amidst the lush rain forest instills the sense of a land that is forgotten by time. And, locals seem to like it this way. Life here intentionally drifts at a turtle’s pace. Perhaps that’s why Tobago’s shores are protected nesting grounds for leatherback turtles that commute from Africa annually. There are no skyscrapers in Tobago’s capital city, Scarborough. No smog, toxic or excessive noise pollution. The few traffic jams that do occur are often the result of a slow-crossing family of goats. Two of nature’s blessings for this quaint island are found at sea. Buccoo Reef and Nylon Pool are marine attractions unparalleled to other natural aqua formations in the Caribbean. Glass-bottom boats steer year-round tourist traffic, from Store Bay and Pigeon Point on the south coast of the island, on half-day trips to snorkel and explore sea life in Buccoo Reef, then tour guides drift a short distance to drop anchor and allow passengers to dip in a shallow body of warm water uniquely set three miles offshore that Princess Margaret, upon her first visit in the 1950s, decided to call the Nylon Pool. At twenty-six miles long by seven across navigating Tobago’s beaches for their cure-all qualities isn’t only the most delicious medicine, but an easy-to-fulfill prescription for memorable romantic interludes. As the sun limbos beneath the horizon on a Friday, Port of Spain transforms, trading restraint and reticence for the verve and vibrancy of Vegas and Miami. Trinidad is commonly considered the “Little New York” of the Caribbean for its diligence to supply all things cosmopolitan, Port of Spain, its capital city, is indeed a dreamcome-true for insomniacs and epicureans. Africa, India, Italy and China converge on Ariapita Avenue where adventurous and celebrated chefs have carved a restaurant row in a neighborhood of Gingerbread homes restored to retain centuries-old charm.
Liming, in local-speak, is a popular pastime that requires a few brews, easy conversation and is done in a panyard, near coconut vendors around the Savannah, or on any stoop, but most commonly in loud rum shops like the ones that trim the Western Main Road in St. James. Traveling roadshows, vibrant cultural pageants, steel pan concerts, athletic exhibitions, visiting chorals and touring dance troupes lend to the year’s entertainment lineup, which doesn’t contain the pander-to-tourists offerings you find in most other tropical destinations. Life in Trinidad be-bops to a different beat, outside of your hotel and guided tours, thinking tourism isn’t embedded in the culture here as it is in Barbados, Jamaica and St. Lucia. Due, in part, to the liquid black gold mined off its shores, Trinidad never had to depend on tourism to fuel its economy. And with two Miss Universe wins, a record-breaking cricket phenom, revered track and soccer stars, being the birthplace of steelpan and home to literary brilliance, and a world-renowned carnival that showcases mind-boggling costume and performance art ingenuity, Trinidad is a destination that is effectively marketed by its many celebrated citizens. However you pace your experience, which ever you explore first, you are very likely to leave savoring Trinidad and Tobago as a destination that is part tranquil, part tantalizing with all the other ingredients your dream getaway desires.
Trinidad & Tobago TRIP TIPS SUITE DREAMS: Where to stay Trinidad Hilton (www.hiltoncaribbean.com) Coblentz Inn (www.coblentzinn.com) Blue Haven Hotel (www.bluehavenhotel.com) Coco Reef Resort & Spa (www.cocoreef.com) Stonehaven Villas (www.villasatstonehaven.com) BON APPETIT: Where to dine Battimamzelle at Coblentz Inn, Cascade Veni Mange, Woodbrook Shutters on the Bay at Blue Haven Hotel, Bacolet Bay Arnos Vale Waterwheel Restaurant, Arnos Vale Tamaras at Coco Reef Resort, Crown Point
TRAIL MIX: Where to tour Maracas, Las Cuevas & Blanchissuese beaches Marianne Waterfalls & Scarlet Ibis Sanctuary Asa Wright Nature Centre (www.asawright.org) Sensationaltours@hotmail.com (868-623-4208) William John (wtcjohn@hotmail.com / 868-798-9060) BEST BUYS: Where to shop West Mall, Frederick St. & Long Circular Mall FACT FINDER: Where to get info www.visitTNT.com www.discovertrinidad.com www.bwee.com (International airline based in T&T)
Opposite page: Curry crab 始n dumplings on Store Bay, admiring nature始s splendor at Asa Wright Nature Centre. This page: Sunset dip and seaside dining at Coco Reef Resort, nightfall in Belmont, the Luise Kimme sculpture museum.
Bare brawn in Poison始s carnival band in the Queen始s Park Savannah. Opposite page: Kayaking couples in Chagauramas, Divali style in Chagaunas, lunch at the Arnos Vale Waterwheel Rainforest Restaurant, sidewalk art in Woodbrook.
The Wedding Planner Blue Haven Honeymoon Package www.bluehavenhotel.com Limousine airport/hotel transfers Refreshing welcome drink Exotic fruit platter upon arrival Honeymoon suite for 7 nights Daily Breakfast (in-suite service if desired) Bottle of champagne One romantic candlelight dinner for two One couple’s massage U$1950 (off-peak) / U$2250 (peak season) Coco Reef Resort & Spa Wedding Package www.cocoreef.com Ceremony: Cake, champagne, minister, bouquet, certificate, license fee U$450 Wedding extras: Florals: Button hole, Corsage Steelband or Steel pan soloist Film or digital photography Video Sunset cruise (includes: drinks/appetizers/music)
U$10 – U$20 U$100 – U$250 U$200 – U$400 U$300 U$500 (2 hrs)
Couples who marry in Trinidad & Tobago must spend three full days in the country prior to obtaining marriage license, the ceremony can be held day after obtaining license. Further details available through Coco Reef social director’s office. Trinidad Hilton (www.hiltoncaribbean.com), Coblentz Inn (www.coblentzinn.com), Stonehaven Villas (www.villasatstonehaven.com) and most other hotels have wedding and honeymoon packages or are very willing to customize a package to suit your needs.
Special thanks to: Terrence Rojas, Collis
Jack, Michelle Rahman, Jacqueline Morris, Mr. Trim, Kirk Thomas, Kaneisha Thom, Linhurst Cole, Anthony Harris, Celisse Pierre and Gerald Nicholas.
Sunset terrace at Blue Haven hotel, local blooms.