ROLEX COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA
VOL.
2: SELF-WINDING MODELS (FROM 1988)
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ISBN 978-2-940506-56-9
Publishing Managers: Fabrice Mugnier and Suzanne Wettstein
English proofreading and partial translation: Susan Jacquet, Transcribe
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Rolex launched its Cosmograph Daytona chronograph in 1963.
Although it is now a watchmaking icon, the model’s beginnings were actually more laborious than one might imagine. Its special status was not built in a day and stems from a combination of several factors.
Rolex played the diversity card right from the outset with models in steel and yellow gold, as well as two dial color combinations for each metal. In the second half of the 1960s, Rolex further enriched its range with an “exotic” dial, available for all versions, again in two colors. Although these dials didn’t immediately win over the public, they did make a major (and unintentional) contribution to the Daytona myth: they are in fact the famous “Paul Newman” dials, named after the actor and racing driver, himself a 1960s icon who was photographed on numerous occasions with his “exotic” Daytona on his wrist.
It was precisely these few photos of Paul Newman with his “exotic” Daytona that started the craze for the Daytona in general and the “Paul Newman” in particular. The Daytona was also much appreciated by other racing drivers and celebrities of the time and this doubtless contributed to the model’s reputation.
Daytona sales in the 1980s were nonetheless not impressive, probably because of its high price compared to quartz models.
In 1988 however, Rolex significantly upgraded the model with a self-winding movement, enlarging its size from 37 to 40 millimeters in diameter and equipping it with a sapphire crystal.
The family, now comprising models in steel, steel & gold, yellow and later white gold, was given a five-digit reference number: 165xx.
Steel models were available with black or white dials, while yellow gold models were complemented by champagne-colored dials.
This automatic model was a great success and it was only logical to see some sports and showbusiness celebrities wearing a Daytona self-winding model.
Serbian tennis player Ana Ivanovic upon her victory at Roland Garros in 2008, one of the four Grand Slam tournaments. After this win she reached the WTA top ranking. That same year she was approached by
Rolex to become a Testimonee. Pictured here with her white automatic Daytona.
Rolex Daytona enthusiast Paul Newman received an automatic model when he and his teammates won the 1995 24 Hours of Daytona in the GTS-1 class. In addition to the customary engraving on the back of the watch, “ROLEX 24 AT DAYTONA 1995”, it features his name and the mention “Rolex Motorsports Man of the Year 1995”. This Daytona can be seen in the photo above when team manager Newman congratulates driver Sébastien Bourdais on his 2007 victory in Mexico.
Another automatic Daytona that was a present to Paul Newman from his wife Joanne Woodward: a white gold model, reference 116519 with black dial and special engraving “DRIVE VERY SLOWLY – JOANNE”. This white gold Daytona was sold for USD 1,080,000 by Sotheby’s auction house in June 2023. The first volume notably features two manual-winding Daytonas gifted by Joanne Woodward and bearing the following engravings: “DRIVE CAREFULLY – ME” and “DRIVE SLOWLY – JOANNE”.
The very first Cosmograph (reference 6239)
Transition to automatic Daytonas (references 16520, 16523, 16528, Zenith-based Caliber 4030)
Rolex becomes the official Title Sponsor of the 24-hour race of Daytona
First Daytona in white gold
Launch of the in-house Caliber 4130 on the new reference 116520
Rolex becomes the Official Timekeeper for the 24 Hours of Le Mans
First Daytona with a Cerachrom bezel
First Daytona in platinum
Rolex becomes a Global Partner and Official Timepiece of Formula 1®
First Daytona with an Oysterflex strap
New Caliber 4131 housed inside the reference 1265xx family
Launch of the white gold “Le Mans” Daytona to celebrate 100 years of the race (reference 126529LN)
2023
DAYTONA LE MANS EDITION
In 2023, Rolex launched the white gold ‘Le Mans’ Daytona Ref. 126529LN which was immediately met with fervor and admiration by the watch community.
Made to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the 24 Hours of Le Mans race, Rolex announced a very special Cosmograph Daytona. With one glance, collectors and hobbyists were able to see a direct link between this watch and Rolex’s heritage. In particular the “reverse Panda” – white registers on a black dial– featuring squares within the registers and serifed text, pointed to none other than the famous “Paul Newman” Daytonas of the past. Another small yet significant detail was the “100” graduation on the bezel rendered in red, a nod to the 100 th anniversary of Le Mans. Moreover, another tribute to this legendary race was the hours counter increased to 24 hours instead of the usual 12, which required a modification in the movement, renamed Caliber 4132 and visible through a sapphire crystal back.
While this new model was not a mere copy of vintage Daytonas – and here it must be noted that with Rolex such is never the case – Rolex’s acknowledgment of its past paves a new way for the brand, one that pays homage to its colorful and storied heritage. And it is in some way also a tribute to the first name planned for its Cosmograph in 1963: Le Mans.
OPPOSITE PAGE:
The “Le Mans” edition released in 2023 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the legendary race. Produced in a very limited quantity, this white gold Daytona will make its mark on the history of the model.
CALIBERS
FIRST GENERATION: CALIBER 4030
Movement diameter: 30.5 mm
Jewels: 31
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (vph)
Power reserve: ~50 hours
The story of the self-winding Cosmograph Daytona begins with Caliber 4030. Rolex relied on Zenith to supply its very first automatic movements.
However, despite the quality of the existing ébauche , Rolex made approximately 200 modifications to the Zenith caliber El Primero 400 before being satisfied with the product.
Components that underwent changes included a balance wheel with the Breguet hairspring and the addition of Rolex’s Micro-Stella adjustment system, as well as the shock-proofing system.
The oscillating weight was replaced by the Rolex Perpetual rotor. Finally, the date function was removed.
The power reserve was furthermore increased from 42 to 50 hours and the oscillations frequency of the original Zenith caliber was reduced from 36,000 vibrations per hour to 28,800 in order to make it more robust and less demanding in terms of lubrication.
The entire watch underwent chronometer and waterproofness testing by Rolex in addition to the movement certification issued by the COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute). As a result, the dials bore the inscription “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”.
CALIBER 4030 (1988-2000)
The caliber number, 4030, is engraved on the chronograph bridge. The movement number is on the main bridge, below the balance wheel (the serial number being hidden here). The rotor bears the brand name, the number of jewels (31) and the various adjustments (information necessary for exportation to the USA).
DIALS
MARK 1. FLOATING COSMOGRAPH
Maker: Singer
Approximate production years: 1988-1989
Usual serial range: R-L
This corresponds to the first iteration of the dial, seen on models from 1988 to 1989. It is characterized by the large gap between the word COSMOGRAPH and the rest of the text.
Furthermore, the text has strong serifs.
Most of the white dials have a distinctive lacquered coating creating a glossy surface and a 3D text effect (see photo below left). They have been nicknamed “porcelain dials” and are sought after by collectors (opposite page, top).
Porcelain dial detail Standard dial detail
MK 1. FLOATING COSMOGRAPH
DIALS
MARK 1. SERIF 1
Maker: Beyeler
Approximate production years: 2000-2003/2004
Usual serial range: P-K-Y-F
This is the very first dial for the new reference 116520, starting the P series through to the Y series, with a few examples in the F series. It was made by Beyeler.
It is characterized by a distinctively shaped “1” in the counter at 3 o’clock, specific to this version: it has an horizontal serif at the base (hence its nickname “serif 1”). Other characteristics include a serifed font and long(er) indexes marking 28, 29, 31 and 32, the 28 being almost inserted between the “D” and the “E” of “MADE”.
The same dial version was available for steel & gold (116523) and 18K yellow gold (116528 and 116518) models, available in four versions: white/champagne, black/champagne, champagne/ black and slate gray/champagne. The hour-markers and the coronet are in yellow gold.
White Mark 1 and Mark 2 dials have often changed color over time, resulting in a palette of shades ranging from dull cream (called “semi-panna”) to more pronounced shades of lemon or even mustard yellow, with silver rings sometimes shifting to a gilded hue. This phenomenon is probably due to poor-quality protective varnish.
Semi-panna
Panna Mustard Lemon/citrus
MK 1. SERIF 1
1
Mk 2 (next page)
BEZELS
In 1963 the tachymeter scale of the first Daytona that was usually printed on the dial was moved and engraved on the bezel to enhance legibility. A tachymeter scale is used to calculate the speed of an objet moving over a given distance, for example a car. From 1988 onwards, most bezels were made of metal, but in 2011 Rolex started to introduce a ceramic bezel called Cerachrom. From 2023 onwards, the ceramic bezel is edged by a ring of metal corresponding to the case (steel, gold or platinum).
MARK 1. 200
Approximate production years: 1988-1989
Usual serial range: R-L
In 1988, when the Daytona Automatic was launched, Rolex used the same bezel design (graduation) of the latest manual-winding Daytona models – meaning a 200-unit graduated scale – with the text “UNITS PER HOUR” located at 3 o’clock. There is however one difference: the numbers 170 and 190 have been replaced by hashes. This bezel available in steel and in 18K yellow gold was used only until about 1989.
MARK 2. 400/250
Approximate production years: 1989-(1990)
Usual serial range: L
The second generation is characterized by a difference in the graduation, now with a maximum value of 400 and the text “UNITS PER HOUR” located at 1 o’clock. This version shows graduation numbers that would not be used in the Mark 3: 250 and 225. This bezel is even rarer than the first one, because it was produced for approximately one year only. Very few examples in yellow gold have been observed.
MK 1. 200
MK 2. 400/250
CASE DIMENSIONS
From 2006 onwards (Z series), Rolex started to engrave inscriptions on the inner bezel ring (also know as a flange or rehaut in French) (photo below). The inscriptions are successive repetitions of the word “ROLEX”, with the Rolex coronet at 12 o’clock and the case serial number at 6 o’clock.
Evolution of the steel case, from reference 16520 in 1988 to 126500LN in 2023. Similar until 2023, the case of the new 126500LN then adopted a new shape. In particular, the comparative image above shows the significant change in profile between references 116500LN (left) and 126500LN (right).
CLASSIC DAYTONA MODELS – TIMELINE
YELLOW
PLATINUM
EVEROSE GOLD
WHITE GOLD
YELLOW
16520 Wide SWISS MADE
Once tritium was no longer used and replaced by non-radioactive luminescent materials, the T letters on either side of SWISS MADE were dropped. This tritium phase-out period began towards the end of the U series and ended during series A. The first variant of this new dial is called “Wide Swiss Made” because this inscription is wider than the subsequent version. An easy way to spot it is the first “S” of “SWISS”, which is close to the index marking 33. Another identification clue is the short central stroke in the “E” of “ROLEX”.
MODELS – ZENITH DAYTONA
16520 Narrow SWISS MADE
Compared to the watch on the previous page, the words “Swiss Made” are ever so slightly closer together, earning the name “Narrow Swiss Made”. In addition, the “E” in “ROLEX” has a much longer middle stroke and the “M” in “CHRONOMETER” has a long central junction. This variant is the last one of the “Zenith” Daytonas. Note the 1999 introduction of a new bezel variant (Mk 3.4) with more distance between the letters of the words “UNIT PER HOUR”.
16528 Floating Cosmograph Mk 1
This example represents the first version of the yellow gold automatic Daytona, reference 16528, produced from 1988. It is called “Floating Cosmograph Mk 1”, with its “COSMOGRAPH” distant from the other text lines and its early bezel graduated to 200. Note the hands, hour-markers and counter rims in gold.
16528 Inverted 6 Wide 40
This 16528 from the early 1990s is characterized by its “inverted 6” in the subsidiary register at 6 o’clock. The bezel is an “Mk 3.3 Floating 400” with a larger distance between the number 400 and its corresponding dot.
116528 Panda Racing
This Cosmograph Daytona is known as the “Panda Racing” due to the contrasting black subsidiary registers with the white background, evoking the face of a panda. The Arabic numerals and the red accents contributed to the name “Racing”. The same dial exists for the Rolesor Daytona, as well as for the white gold Daytona, with white gold numerals.
2003
MODELS – IN-HOUSE CALIBER DAYTONA
116508 Green Racing – John Mayer
Released at Baselworld 2016, the present Rolex Daytona reference 116508 was the first Daytona model in yellow gold to showcase the firm’s signature emerald green color on its dial. It is nicknamed “John Mayer” by collectors, as the singer, an avid watch collector, was spotted with this watch on his wrist. The model was discontinued in 2023.
HARDSTONE DIALS
Selecting and cutting hard stones to create dials requires a great deal of expertise, time as well as effort and Rolex has always been in the vanguard when it comes to experimenting with new materials.
As a naturally occurring element, no two hardstones have the same appearance, meaning that each slice looks completely different from another, giving each watch is unique character.
Sodalite, grossularia and meteorite are just a few of the stones used by Rolex to enhance the Cosmograph Daytona.
16519 Sodalite 8 Diamonds
This reference 16519 is fitted with a sodalite dial. While hardstones are now regularly used in timepieces, Rolex was very imaginative during the 1990s in pairing a sports chronograph with such a dial. Given the fragility of the material and the expertise required to create these dials, production remained extremely limited.
1997
116519 Beach Green
This version of the “Beach” displays a green chrysoprase dial with matching lizard strap. In the second half of the 2000s, the same dial was used in reference 116509 with a white gold Oyster bracelet, but it does not belong to the “Beach” collection.
116519 Beach Turquoise
This version of the “Beach” displays a blue turquoise dial with matching lizard strap. Given the serial number starting with K, fat hands with luminous material inside were most probably changed during a service on the watch or at the customer’s request. In the second half of the 2000s, the same dial was used in reference 116509 with a white gold Oyster bracelet, but it is not part of the “Beach” collection.
2000
FELINE MOTIFS
While the adjective “daring” is not a word one commonly used to describe Rolex watches, the brand has once in a while pushed the boundaries of design.
The first of these models on the unofficial “feline” theme was produced in the early 2000s and nicknamed “leopard”. Legend has it that a lady companion of a top Rolex executive was the inspiration for the flamboyant design of this model set with precious stones and featuring a dial and strap reminiscent of this graceful feline.
Rolex has recently produced models on this same theme, available in yellow gold and white gold, this time with a tiger-like resemblance.
116598SACO Leopard
Introduced at the Basel Fair in 2004, reference 116598 SACO immediately captured the eyes and hearts of certain Rolex fans. Adorned with diamond-set hour-markers contrasting with the leopard-print dial and strap, this watch was very different from anything Rolex had previously done. A bezel set with 36 orange sapphires and a case set with brilliant-cut diamonds complete the picture.
2004
16528 (1988-2000)
16518
(1991-2000)
YELLOW GOLD MODELS
116528
GOLD MODELS
In 1963, Rolex launched a new chronograph destined to become a legend: the COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA. It was used by racing drivers, as well as by other sports personalities and celebrities, the most famous doubtless being American actor Paul Newman, who unwittingly made a significant contribution to the Daytona’s incredible and enduring success.
After 25 years, in 1988, Rolex decided to update its star model by equipping it with an automatic caliber that definitively replaced the previous manual-winding movements. It thus became probably one of the most coveted watches in history.
Since then, the Cosmograph Daytona has continued to evolve, incorporating a host of technical innovations – from the ever more efficient movement to other components such as the bracelet or the ceramic bezel. It is now available in a much wider range, including versions in several precious metals and/or set with stones. The brand has nonetheless always managed to retain the distinctive DNA that makes the Daytona instantly recognizable.
After a first volume dedicated to manual-winding models (1963-1988), this second volume is entirely devoted to automatic models (from 1988 to the present day). Together, the two books will provide readers with a comprehensive guide to the entire production history of the most famous chronograph of all time.
ISBN 978-2-940506-56-9