Blush Magazine - Spring 2017

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S E N S E

S U S T A I N A B I L I T Y

SP R I N G 2017

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GO TO B LUSHMAGF I T.C OM F OR M ORE A RTI C L ES, I NTERV I EW S, ONL INE ED I TOR I A L S A ND MOR E.

EDI TOR I N C H I EF

Gina Gargiulo CREATI VE DI R EC TO R

Hannah Keiffert ART DI RECTO R

Brandon Saloy

Emily Schindler PUBLI C REL ATI O N S DI RECTOR

Ryann Casey TREASURER

Tyana Teat-Vickers EXECUTI VE SEN I O R EDI TOR

Avanti Dalal SENI OR EDI TO R

Mikayla Madigan PHOTO EDITO R

Alan-Michael Duval Melissa DeOliveira Michelle Lee HEAD STYLI ST

Christina Buscarino PUBLI C REL ATI O N S ASSOCI ATE S

Juan Fernandez Michelle Lee Kelly McLoughlin Claudia Tufanio

Gabrielle Chang Dee Delancour Melissa DeOliveira Michelle Dines Lena Kourgouzov Jonathan Lee Melanie Leonard Michelle Moloney Erin Rouse Alyssa Taylor Jewelle Trotman Kelly Washington ART

Taylor Bender Laura Cervini Gabrielle Chang Won-Hyoung Choi Amanda Corrieri Nell Dobbs Meagan Dowling Elena Eshleman Amy Geller Lexie Lou Michelle Massa Juliana Mazza Gillian Milberg Sophia Pavlatos Amanda Pita Bianca Rose

B LU S H MAG F IT. CO M W E B D IR E C TO R

Madelyn Adams W E B C R E AT IVE D IR E C TO R

Michaela Del Viscovo W E B E D ITO R S

Ryann Casey Amanda Corrieri Cassandra Gagnon Brinley Knopf A DV IS O R

Laura Hatmaker

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A G E T TH E LO O K

*Featured sustainable brand • FIT Alum

Our Spring 2017 logo is set in Ryman Eco, an eco-friendly font that uses 33 percent less ink and toner than the average serif typeface. It is available for free download at rymaneco.uk.

Blush is produced by the students of the Fashion Institute of Technology State University of New York, with funds provided by the FIT Student Government Association.

FIT is committed to prohibiting discrimination in its programs, activities, and employment, whether based on race, color, national origin, sex, gender, gender identity, religion, ethnic background, age, disability, marital status, sexual orientation, military service status, genetic information, pregnancy, familial status, citizenship status (except as required to comply with law), or any other criterion prohibited by law. Inquiries regarding the non discrimination policy may be directed to the Affirmative Action Officer/Title IX Coordinator, 212 217.3360, titleix@fitnyc.edu.

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COPY EDI TO R S

Madelyn Adams Christina Buscarino Isabella Cacciatore Ryann Casey Concetta Ciarlo Coclico* Avanti Dalal Michaela Del Viscovo Helena Eisenhart* Sarah Fielding Erica Fleming Marissa Frank From Trinity* Cassandra Gagnon Sofia Ilmonen* Kevin Jones Brinley Knopf Kelsey Taylor Koontz Michelle Lee Kelly McLoughlin Joanne Mekonen Hannah Kristina Metz* Yerellys Michel Sarah Michelson Gillian Milberg Quinton Mulvey Devon Reid Suzanne Rae* Brandon Saloy Dani Smith Sarah Stark Edina Szabo Caroline Wilcox XIXAW, Yuteng Xavier Mo* •

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PHOTOGRAPH Y DI RECTOR

ED I TO R I A L C O N TR I BU TO R S

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FEATURES

Berlin Underground Dive into the latest underground fashion movement in Berlin.

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Recycled Handbags Quirky clutches are the stars of this editorial.

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53 What’s That?

Photographer Laura Cervini has waste on her mind in this new abstract series.

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MockNeck Meet the new brand that brings gender-neutrality and sustainability to the forefront.

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Restrung

Alternative Facts

Etsy merchants turn discarded guitar picks and strings into wearable art.

Climate change deniers are everywhere. What now?

30 Getting Dirty Learn more about the magic of mud on your skin.

56 Sense & Sustainability Sustainable fashion and vintage interiors.

THE EDITOR

Every great topic comes with research, but also what we see with our very own eyes. We can conclude that our months have been getting warmer, the Earth is heating up, and many companies are now going “green.” Nonetheless, I wanted a

AS BLUSH MAGAZINE

topic that goes way beyond this.

My idea around sustainability is to take devastating issues we see on our

EVOLVES, WE WANT TO FOCUS ON MORE

planet, and twist them into a positive light that is more enjoyable to read. We

HAPPENING IN THE WORLD. OUR LAST ISSUE ON FEMINISM

culture. With detailed articles, original photography, and hand-drawn illustrations, this publication is truly a work of art.

The goal is to raise awareness about what is happening in different industries due to climate change and and to celebrate the rise of sustainable and natural materials. Then with this, we can find different ways to ease the problems and contribute to finding solutions.

I want to thank every writer, editor, director, associate, designer, photographer,

TOOK ON STRONG STATEMENTS AND OPINIONS, AND I MOST

illustrator, stylist, makeup artist, model, and reader for making this issue come together. For without you, this wouldn’t even exist.

Proud is an understatement of how I feel, and I can’t wait to see where this takes us in the future.

CERTAINLY WANTED TO MATCH THAT. Gina Gargiulo

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THAT WE SEE

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took creative standpoints on global warming, recyclable products, and sustainable elements, transforming them to fit under the topics of fashion, beauty, and

PROMINENT ISSUES

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FROM

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s t e r c e s e h t r u o y in t e s o cl n g the u n i r e v disco g clothin f o s t cos

T

he fashion industry accounts for nearly 10 percent of the total pollution worldwide. Our textiles and garments account for 15 percent of all the

carbon emissions in the world. Fashion is the leader in pesticide usage, toxic runoff, and water consumption.

The garment industry is the second biggest polluter of fresh water sources. Thankfully, these have all become more frequently discussed topics. Yet, I still feel as though the specific damages my fashion choices put on the earth is still unknown. So, I set out to discover how much I am damaging the earth by buying that $15 Zara crop top.

Fast fashion is one of the largest contributors

known

to garment-related pollution, and is something we are all slightly guilty of. As a teen, places like Forever 21 and H&M were where I got the majority of my clothing. When the conversation about sustainability in the garment industry came to a head, I decided to tear apart my closet. I selected a number of my favorite pieces and investigated their carbon footprints

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E L LY

BY K HLIN OUG MCL

from factory to rack.

The first step was deciding what items to choose. I sifted through my closet, dragging my felt hangers side to side, trying to find an article of clothing that I can’t go without.

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Then, I saw it:

My Urban Outfitter’s Mixed Cotton V-Neck Sweater: ($78) Like most people, I look at Urban Outfitters as a hipster mecca that has a conscious grasp on activism and world issues. They even have a collection consisting solely of recycled and vintage fabrics. Urban Outfitters gave me a complacent feeling of sustainable, eco-conscious living.

I found this warm and sunny sweater to have a heavy look of artisan construction, nothing like how I soon found out it is really made. I was nearly

certain

they

had

sustainable practices.

Throughout the sustainability community, it is commonly known that Urban Outfitters discloses little to no infor-

Illustrations by Taylor Bender

MAKING ONE OF THESE SWEATERS:

Releases 6.574 kilograms of carbon

issues stole the spotlight. Nevertheless, their production tactics are just as

The Solution

appalling and hypocritical. American

To make significant improvements in

Uses roughly 1,500 gallons of water

Apparel is a company full of claims of

the fight against pollution and global

domestic and sweatshop-free produc-

warming, we must raise awareness —

Releases countless amounts of herbicides throughout the lifespan of the sweater

tion. I assumed the “Made in USA”

not cause alarm. This will only result in

signs pitched all over their stores had

panic and misdirected actions. We can

some meaning. What I found next was

only try to educate and make the world

extremely disheartening. I’ll give you a

more aware of it’s actions. Good or

hint: Polyester.

bad, at least people can make conscious

Uses 500,000 barrels of oil

decisions about how they are using

mation about their production. This

their buying power.

is perhaps a telling sign that they have

With every move and purchase,

something to hide. Even though Urban

doing to the earth. This will naturally

and progressive look, their practices are

discourage people from making these

stereotypically fast fashion.

damaging purchases.

We think of cotton as a sustainable fabric, but research shows that, sustainably and ethically, it is not a green

WHAT CAN WE DO?

resource. Cotton is the most pesti-

Buy vintage Seek out pieces made from recycled fabrics

cide-intensive crop in existence. These pesticides create disease in farming animals and even harm humans as well.

Look for organic cotton, silk and wool

There is nothing quite like a poly-cotton

Urban Outfitters shares factories with

blend, is there? It was an innovation

places such as Aeropostale, Forever 21,

in fabric from nearly 50 years ago that

and Zara. These are all companies that

changed textile production forever, and

are notorious for their environmentally

maybe not for the better. Its low price

harmful practices. Can Urban Outfit-

and versatile production make it the

ters’ production be different when they

most used fabric for fast fashion retail-

are all under the same roof?

ers. My go-to pair of slacks here are 95

the motivation comes from within.

My American Apparel Black

percent polyester.

Maybe the next time you see a top in

I know what you’re thinking, “How can she shop at a place with such low morals?” Since the firing of the misogynist CEO Dov Charney, it seemed all offensive issues had withered away. The bankruptcy of American Apparel tells another story. Yes, their going-out-ofbusiness sale got me totally hooked.

Besides all that, I never heard too much about their sustainability efforts.

Perhaps this is because all of their other

Sell or consign old clothing instead of tossing it away Read clothing labels before purchasing

Change

will

only

occur

when

H&M for a bargain, you will stop and MAKING ONE PAIR OF THESE PAINTS:

Releases tons of toxic formaldehyde into the air, to treat and “protect” the fabric Potentially stains and pollutes rivers with unfixed dye and chlorine compounds found in dark colored polyblend fabrics Produces nitrous oxide (a greenhouse gas 310 times more potent than carbon dioxide) Uses more than one million barrels of oil

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wonder, “What are we sacrificing to make this so cheap?”

Minor changes in our buying habits can make bigger impacts than expected.

When put into logistics, it is clear to see how much control we have over the environment. The shocking amounts of

fuels

used,

natural

resources

wasted, and pollution emitted can all eventually decrease if we just become a little more aware.

READ MORE AT BLUSHMAGFIT.COM

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Jazz Pants: ($54)

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people should know what they are

Outfitters has a very hipster, vintage,

S TÄRKER V EREINIGT ( stronger united)

EMERGING FROM THE FLASHING LIGHTS

and rapid pulse of

Berlin’s techno-clubs, a new collective is causing a sensation in the fashion industry. On first glance, one might think that the buzz stems from the arrival of PVC trousers and corduroys with flat fronts, but for GmbH, innovation transcends the tangible.

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GmbH has been described as a “postmodern” fashion collective because of its evolution away from modernism, specifically modernism’s principle of individualism. GmbH would likely argue that individualism leads to isolation and narcissism; this is the collective’s chosen name, GmbH is an acronym for a term in German that means “limited liability company,” a name so generic, it takes a giant step away from individualism. It’s similar to the Parisian label Vetements, a brand name that simply means “clothing” in French.

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GmbH seeks to make something that counteracts the idea of the singularly celebrated creative director. Their name also carries a certain criticism of the fashion industry. The term

The Russian Constructivist ideal was best realized by the

“limited liability” conjures up images of transgressions like

painter, architect, graphic designer and photographer El

inhumane working conditions and significant contributions

(Lazar Markovich) Lissitzky. Lissitzky studied architecture at

to our carbon footprint. Unlike other fashion brands, GmbH

a school of engineering and architecture in Germany, which

uses the remains of fabric from high-end production compa-

is why mathematical and structural properties of architecture

nies to make unique pieces intended to last a lifetime. Their

formed a basis for his art. Lissitzky later returned to Russia

commitment to sustainability is in fact the ultimate embod-

where he worked as an architect and saw the October 1917

iment of their shift away from individualism, as it demon-

Russian Revolution as a new beginning for mankind. In 1921

strates a large-scale concern for the global community.

Lissitzky traveled to Berlin where he made contact with

Paula Scher, a postmodern graphic designer and the first

the Bauhaus, Dadaists, and other constructivists. Postwar

female principal at Pentagram, spoke at the Type Directors

Germany had become a meeting ground for Eastern and

Club’s 70th anniversary celebration. In her presentation she

Western ideas in the early 1920s and access to excellent

told the audience of designers to “push back against some-

German printing facilities enabled Lissitzky’s typographic

thing.” Scher herself strayed away from the omnipresent

ideas to develop rapidly. Lissitzky’s Berlin period allowed for

typeface Helvetica in an effort to challenge modern design,

him to spread the constructivist message through frequent

particularly corporate design. GmbH’s branding and identity

Bauhaus visits, lectures, and writings. The logotype, layouts,

system alludes to their postmodern “push back against” indi-

and overall branding of GmbH evoke this movement with

vidualism. Scher’s typographic inspiration was provided by

strong geometric construction, large areas of pure color, and

Russian Constructivism (a style that was prevalent in Berlin),

concise, heavy sans-serif lettering.

particularly its vocabulary of form and relationships.

Naturally, the clothing style of GmbH coheres with its visual system. GmbH’s use of radical materials to create a gender-neutral “uniform” is comparable to the work of fashion designers in the 1920s. During the period between the world wars, fashion designers showcased their nonconformity at international congresses and exhibitions using “anti-neckties” made from aluminum and shirts made from metal. In 1919, Futurist Ernesto Michahelles developed a unisex uniform garment that was similar to overalls and consisted of a one- or two-piece garment, and a suit that he called a tuta (jumper). Similar counter-designs were developed by Russian Constructivist designers. In response to this movement, the German women’s magazine Die Dame principle is most strongly expressed in fashion.” The designers of the time were not seeking to create a symbol of liberation from sexual oppression, instead they worked toward creating an androgynous dress code that would broaden the discussion of the relationship between the sexes.

GmbH’s designs hint at the concept of a workwear uniform,

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declared, “Just now the struggle between the male and female

and as a high-end street style brand, it uses garments to advocate the socially marginalized. The origin of street style itself lies in functional clothing born out of financial hard-

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ship: extra-large sizes are chosen so that children can grow into them, while workwear is chosen because it’s robust and and silhouettes of GmbH’s clothing and the use of phrases like “Randomly Selected” that reference discrimination.

GmbH’s mission is manifested in both small and large ways from its creation of a collective rather than a singular visionary, and through its use of sustainable materials.

With branding and fashion designs that are reminiscent of the Russian Constructivists, the collective’s aesthetic seems to clearly align with their postmodern mission, thoroughly communicating the message that we are stronger united.

—SAR AH STA RK

Photography by Bianca Rose Styling by Eve Gardiner Modeled by Rebecca Norris, Taylor Nunes-Agins

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durable. These stylistic features are prevalent in the materials

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BY KEVI N JO NE S

In 2012, 84 percent of the clothing consumers threw away ended up being incinerated or discarded into landfills. Since clothing is not compostable, it just sits, creating methane gas in improperly sealed landfills, leaking into groundwater. Luckily a handful of brands are working to prevent fashion industry waste. These brands are changing the game in by using recycled plastic, fishing nets, and organic and regenerated cotton to produce their garments.

One company took it to a higher level by bringing the most chic and sustainable brands together on one online store. Reve En Vert or “dream in green” is known as the Net-a-Porter of sustainable fashion. The founder of Reve En Vert, Natasha Tucker, talks to Blush about the luxury market, clichés of recycling, and her vision for the future.

Blush: What are some of your favorite ways

slightly removed still. What we have found is that the rise

brands have become sustainable?

of consciousness about healthy living and a proliferation of

Natasha Tucker: I personally think that the use of recy-

ethical activewear lines is helping to narrow that gap and act

cled materials is really important. Digital printing is really cool as a process, as is the use of low-impact materials. I think innovation is really driving some amazing changes in the industry. For example we work with some brands that turn plastic into amazing material; I love the idea of making something beautiful out of waste material. I also think the

somewhat as a bridge for people. We find that really exciting and that’s why we have decided to offer a range of ethical activewear as well.

Do you think that sustainability in luxury will grow to more brands? What would you love to see from them?

use of natural dyes is very important as so many of our

Absolutely. I don’t believe it’s a question of if, and that

water sources are being compromised by toxic dyes.

it has to be a question of when. I would love to see them

What is the most difficult part about selling

partake in the conversation more. Even if it’s hard for them

sustainable fashion?

to be sustainable right now, I would like to see them start to

people are poorly educated on what the state of the fashion industry actually is. Once people are better informed, we see that they tend to make ethical choices. It’s about reaching

acknowledge the need and importance of this and for them to at least begin with transparency. That’s the first step.

How can we show people that sustainable clothing can also be luxurious?

those people and educating them, which is why our edito-

For us it’s about providing a curated selection of brands that

rial platform is so important for us. We also have to battle

are doing this well. We use the word luxury, not in terms

against negative stereotypes so the aesthetics of the clothes

of price point or exclusivity, but rather in terms of crafts-

that we sell have to really hit the kind of fashion notes that

manship, quality of design, and the timelessness of fashion

consumers expect to find.

pieces. Hopefully in building and cementing our brand,

What are the clichés that come with

we are also able to showcase that sustainable fashion is the

sustainable clothing?

epitome of luxury.

high-end fashion is one of the clichés we have to fight. We

Who is your favorite sustainable designer and why?

always say that no one should have to sacrifice style for

It’s really hard to pick one, but I love Fonnesbech for their

ethics. Another assumption is that it’s more expensive, so we

classic, simple, and chic designs, blended with an uncom-

have really tried to find a broad mix of designers with differ-

promising commitment to producing clothes in the most

ing price points.

ethical way possible.

What are some of your goals as far as

Do you have any advice for current fashion

educating the public about the importance of

students that relates to sustainability?

sustainability?

In terms of advice, I would just say stick with it. It’s the

Our goals are to better inform the public about what is

future of the world and there is so much exciting room for

happening in fashion, from an environmental and a social

innovation and so much progress still to be made so there

perspective, and to ultimately provide an alternative to

is a lot of opportunity to stand out in an otherwise highly

shopping they can feel good about. We never seek to shame

competitive industry.

anyone or any brand, and we aren’t perfect either, but we

Both new and old brands are getting more involved with

really want to promote the message that small shifts collec-

the way they produce their clothing. Natasha Tucker shows

tively can be easy and are ultimately better. We really want

us that ethical production is a trend that’s here to stay and

to teach people that it doesn’t require a huge shift overnight.

grow. Fashion is turning itself into an opportunity for the

Why hasn’t fashion caught up yet?

wellness of our planet and it’s more flattering than ever before.

I think it’s easier to think about and be concerned about what goes in your body, and what is on our bodies seems

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I think people assume that ethical fashion won’t look like

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We always say that the biggest issue is the fact that so many

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Snack clutches, $10

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Coffee bag, $35

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trash bags BAGS

BY

MORELANDSUPCYCLING ON ETSY

PHOTOGRAPHY

BY

PHOTO ASSISTANCE

E M I LY S C H I N D L E R BY

HANNAH KEIFFERT

“ WE UP-CYCLE TR A SH AND RE-PURPO SE IT I NTO DURABLE, WATERPROOF, A WESOME BAG S A N D F U NKY ACCESSO R I ES! ”

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—Dale L eavay, shop own e r L ea r n mor e at ets y.com/morelandsu p c y c li n g

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Marijuana messenger bag, $45

SPR IN G 2 0 17 / DEPA RTMEN T Capri Sun wallet, $12

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Capri Sun handbag, $10

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for the grand girl gone green While there is no categorical, perfect definition of “eco-conscious” fashion, Green Strategy, a consultancy firm dedicated to fashion sustainability, fittingly summarizes it this way: “More sustainable fashion can be defined as clothing, shoes and accessories that are manufactured, marketed and used in the most sustainable manner possible, taking into account both environmental and socio-economic aspects.” Even the luxury market is taking part of the trend. Still, as always, there are trendsetters, leading the Green Couture revolution.Who’s involved?

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When thinking of luxury designers embracing eco-con-

Prince for vocational education in Haiti, Integrative Therapy

scious fashion, one thinks of designer Eileen Fisher. In

Program, Empowering Children. Urban Zen is a “marriage

2012, she had “an epiphany about the earth” and latterly,

of commerce and philanthropy, it ‘dresses and addresses’

Amy Hall, director of sustainable consciousness announced

an urban lifestyle.” The consumer is giving back with each

Eileen Fisher’s eight-year plan to eradicate their top volume

purchase.

fabric, viscose. Ever since, the self-professed “sustainably

MANOLO BLAHNIK

conscious”—not sustainable, mind you, as the company still produces waste—company has published the factories they employ, fabrics they handle, and prospective projects.

In November 2016, the company introduced Remade in the USA, a 500-piece limited edition collection, compiled entirely of recycled garments; repurposed handkerchief linen and stretch silk jersey revived through felting, natural dyeing, and resewing. According to Vision2020, “The pieces we can’t sell? They’re tomorrow’s raw material, to be reborn as new textiles or refashioned as new clothes.”

DONNA KARAN Donna Karan has gone the way of jute and gunny, too. In that the company’s foundation, Urban Zen, was founded to raise awareness about the environment and create change through their Haiti Artisan Project, D.O.T in Port-au-

Sought-after, coveted, and Carrie Bradshaw’s favorite, Manolo Blahniks are even eco-friendly. It’s true—in 2012, Blahnik collaborated with designer Marcia Patmos for a spring collection. Flat and high-heeled sandals made from discarded tilapia skins, cork and raffia available in black, ecru, electric blue, fluorescent yellow for $895, proving that sustainability can meet luxury goods standards.

VALENTINO Last but not least, the pièce de résistance—according to Greenpeace—for others to emulate, Valentino. One of the biggest designers in the world, lauded and lionized, is now the hottest in Green Couture: by 2020, Valentino has committed to eliminating all hazardous production cycle chemicals.

—BR I N L EY KNOPF READ MORE AT BLUSHMAGFIT.COM

B Y DA NI S M I TH

SO YOU WANT TO BE

a girl

boss? That calls for a major wardrobe

revamp.

Pack

up all your dark clothing and accessories, and let’s talk about the best color to wear during the spring and

accessories in those colors

a date night. You can never

look with a white bodysuit

or by simply adding state-

From palms to pavement,

go wrong with a two-piece

and chunky booties, and I

ment pieces, such as a faux-

the sun will still shine these

crop top and a midi skirt.

swear no one will ever cross

fur coat (if it’s under 60

coming seasons, no matter

Just add a pair of white stilet-

you.

degrees in your neck of the

the location of your little red

tos and you’ve mastered the

While the monochromatic

woods!). Some of the best

pinpoint. The ultimate ques-

classic look. Give your style

look of all white can be

stores to acquire your new

tion everyone is dying to get

the “I totally worked out this

extremely appealing to the

lady boss attire are: Asos,

an answer for: What should

morning” vibe (even though

eye, there’s plenty of colors

Topshop, Urban Outfitters,

you wear? It’s simple, white.

we both know you didn’t)

you can pair with white to

Missguided, and Necessary

While

by pairing a cropped white

amplify your overall look.

Clothing.

been a safe color for any

sweatshirt

athletic

The best colors to pair with

For this all-white outfit,

self-proclaimed fashionista,

leggings and white sneakers.

white are pastels and metal-

don’t be nervous to try any

you’ll catch all eyes when

Calling all girl-bosses out

lics. In order to top off any

crazy Instagram makeup or

sporting white. There are

there:

favor-

look, you must never forget

hair looks. Slick your hair

many ways to style white,

ite

light-wash

to pull it together with killer

back into a pony, or let it

as it gives a solid founda-

boyfriend jeans and put a

makeup and a hot hair style.

all come down. Add some

tion for any outfit. Since

pair of white fishnet tights

You can do this by adding

stark white liquid lips to

black

has

always

with

Grab

distressed

your

white is a neutral color,

blow them all away, and

styling an outfit composed

don’t forget to top it off with

of all white pieces leaves a

some holographic highlight.

ton of room for accesso-

If you’re feeling bold, create

ries: chokers, hoop earrings,

some in-trend faux freck-

chunky belts, and extraordi-

les using white eyeliner, or

nary shoes. If you’re looking

the color that matches your

for wow factor, don’t be

natural hair.

afraid

to

style

different

textures together. Crushed white

velvet

and

white

distressed denim can have a bizarre way of complementing each other.

There’s

no

There’s

no

regulations

with the color white, especially when it’s applied to fashion and beauty. Be reckless, daring, and impulsive.

Become your inner girl boss.

rules

in

C’mon, what’s stopping you?

fashion, ladies; take white in any direction you desire.

Photography by Sophia Pavlatos Modeled by Dani Smith

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underneath. Complete the

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Try bringing white out on

summer months: white.

Styled by Christina Buscarino Photography by Alan-Michael Duval Modeled by Syd Acker (MUSE), Lara G (Wilhelmina) Makeup by Jordan Ferriss Shoes, jewelry, and vintage clothing are the stylist’s own Black tops by MockNeck

sustainable startups Never before has our generation witnessed such an outpouring of voice and action for progress than we have this year. With new shifting administrations and contrasting views circling in the media, young people’s voices are more important than ever. Whether that be in the form of marching the streets of Manhattan or sharing an article on Facebook, we have the power to speak for ourselves and the communities we cherish. We have the power to set change in motion. This newfound power is what inspired my business partner, Charlie Max, and I to launch our brand MockNeck.

We are inspired by our new consumer. Modern

Conceived and produced entirely in New York City’s Garment District, our product is made directly with factory workers who stand strongly with us in our dedication to fair labor practices. We chose a sustainable bamboo jersey for the body of our garment and produce them in unisex sizing to communicate our dedication to inclusivity of all gender identities and body types. “We wanted to create a unified basic for everyone,” said my co-founder

consumers demand a complex identity from their brands,

Charlie. “We want people to bring their personalities to

with transparent values and beliefs. They expect to know

the product, not the other way around.”

where their products are made and at what cost. Many emerging brands now have the opportunity to market their quality goods and services alongside various platforms that speak directly to the people who care.

As creators and consumers, we must now demand responsibility from every company we purchase from and, most importantly, we must support those attempting change at every level.

Our mission is simple: Utilize fair labor practices, empower diverse bodies, and create content with a community of artists and activists that our business can help promote. We tackled this mission by creating a unisex, black mock-neck T-shirt using sustainable production practices and by forming an inclusive community of creatives and activists around it.

—QU I N TO N MULVE Y Read more about Quinton’s new company, MockNeck, on their website, MockNeck.us, or follow them at @MockNeck.us on Instagram

Earrings by Vita Fede

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25 B LUSH MAGFIT.C O M

people are chang-

fashion to conscious fashion then check

for a purse. Even though they are an

ing the way they view sustainability and

out this list of shops that will make your

accessory brand they are also expand-

ethical companies. In this new day and

wardrobe more eco-friendly.

ing into apparel. All goods are made

IN TODAY’S SOCIETY

age, increased awareness has shaped

out of leather, bones, and tire rubber

consumers into conscious shoppers.

(for shoe soles) and are handcrafted

They no longer want to stand by a company that treats its employees poorly and is a contributor to global warming (the fashion industry is the largest polluter and consumer of water).

Companies are noticing this change within consumers and are changing

With companies taking a stand, it’s becoming much easier to shop sustainable.

by artisans in South Africa. Even if this is out of your price range, this is a company to watch.

MODAVANTI Modavanti is a sustainable fashion boutique that doesn’t compromise your style for your values. They have

Up-and-coming companies are starting

a badge system based on their level of

to take production matters into their own hands with sustainability in mind.

There is a stigma around eco-friendly products, but they are actually better than you might think.

EVERLANE This company, founded by Michael Preysman, has branched out from T-shirts since they originated in 2010.

Their product assortment ranges from

sustainability that is awarded to each company that works with them. The badges consist of artisan, eco-friendly, fair trade, made in the USA, organic, recycled, vegan, and zero waste. You can shop by category or by badge. They

Environmentally friendly companies

$22 for a tee, $98 for a silk blouse,

take more time and put more thought

$100 for a cashmere crew, and $168

into what they are making while

for a pair of loafers. Even better, Ever-

keeping the consumer, product, and

lane is known for their radical trans-

environment in mind. They think way

parency, because they make sure that

beyond

the production process of a

the consumer knows the factories

garment—which includes water runoff

People Tree has partnered up with fair

that products were made in, the cost

and pollution, carbon footprint, chemi-

trade producers, garment workers,

to produce the item, and the profit.

cal usage, and waste reduction—but the

artisans, and farmers in developing

Everything is right there in the open.

countries to produce look-good, feel-

BROTHER VELLIES

good clothing. People Tree is like

production to retailers to the consumer and beyond that. This ensures that the

Brother Vellies is an accessory-based

products are kept in circulation and

company that was founded by Aurora

away from landfills. With companies

James in 2013 and they have also won a

taking a stand, it’s becoming much

CFDA award in the past. Their prices

easier to shop sustainable. If you still

range from $200 for slippers up to $1,400

haven’t made the switch from fast-

YOUR SHOPPING GUIDE

carry beauty products, clothes, and designer goods.

25

PEOPLE TREE The

pioneer

of

slow

fashion.

Forever 21 with ethics. The range of products are similar, but with a slightly higher price range.

—YER EL LYS MICH E L READ MORE AT BLUSHMAGFIT.COM

TO ETHICAL AND SUSTAINABLE FASHION

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entire life process of that garment from

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the way they go about their businesses.

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KoolPlatez.etsy.com

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t

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rt eiffe

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e R

w e J

d e el

4 Etsy Shop Owners Turning Junk Into Jewelry

SkateBetty.etsy.com

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AbsoluteJewelry.etsy.com

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ReStrungJewelry.etsy.com

A Guide to Ultraviolet Rays: What Are They Really Doing to Your Skin?

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and rickets (slow and weak

is filtered and does not infil-

bone growth in children).

How do you know when

it causes delayed tanning

and how to protect yourself

and burning and acts as a

from the dangerous rays?

catalyst for aging and skin

The World Health Organiza-

cancer such as melanoma

tion says radiation is stron-

stocking up on products

(pigment-producing

cells

gest at noon because the

with SPF (the higher is

become

The

sun’s rays are directly hitting

usually the better) is one

longest and most damag-

and

cancerous).

earth’s

surface.

During

of the golden rules in the

the morning and evening,

beauty world. But, what is

the sun’s rays are are more

really happening when skin

angular and more radiation

is exposed to ultraviolet

is being absorbed, causing

radiation? What are the long-

less harm. Whether there are

term and short-term effects

blue skies or cloudy days,

UV rays can cause besides a

the weather also affects the

simple sunburn?

sun’s penetration. Rays are

To S PR ING 2017 / B EAUTY

a newborn’s eyes and skin)

length. Although most of it trated deeply into the skin,

APPLYING SUNSCREEN

30

UVB with its medium wave-

answer

this, it

is

important to understand the science behind it all. First, UV radiation is “part of the electromagnetic (light) spectrum that reaches the earth from the sun” according to the Skin Cancer Foundation. There are three types that are categorized by wavelength, effects, and penetration into the skin: UVC, UVB, and UVA (this type is differentiated into UVA I and UVA II). The most dangerous is UVC because it has the shortest wavelength but it poses a lesser threat since its rays are filtered and do not reach earth.

The second most harmful is Illustrations by Won-Hyoung Choi

more harmful and direct ing wavelength is UVA. Not

when there are clear skies

only does 95 percent of this

while radiation is more likely

radiation reach the earth’s

blocked

surface, but it also pene-

clouds in the sky. However,

trates deeper into the skin.

don’t let that fool you, they

It causes immediate tanning,

can still hit earth’s surface.

skin aging, and wrinkling; to put things into perspective, UVA lighting is found in tanning booths which can cause damage at a more harmful rate. Yet, UV can be beneficial in some health scenarios.

For

example,

small amounts of radiation provide vitamin D, beneficial for bone growth, and can cure diseases like eczema and children-prone diseases like jaundice (yellowing of

when

there

are

Yes, ultraviolet radiation is harmful and scary, but there are ways to protect your skin from damaging. As seen on the

Occupational

Health

and Safety Administration’s website, wearing sunscreen, covering up and going out when the sun’s rays are less harmful are just some of the simple ways you can keep your skin healthy without using a facemask.

Now that the spring is approaching and the days are

getting

longer,

take

what you know, stock up on sunscreen, and bring out your favorite hat to win the battle with UV. —MI CHEL L E LE E

that can result? Cue the faint cry in the

skin tones are most prone to sunburn

distance of dermatologists everywhere

and can develop one within less than

screaming, “NO!” Tanning is the

There’s no reason to spend all day

process of cells in your

soaking up the rays, because skin can

skin protecting you

only produce so much melanin before

from harmful UVA

maxing out. Every hour or so opt for

and UVB rays that come from the sun. Prolonged exposure to

a bit of shade bathing to take a break.

The more time in the shade, the better.

Try Self Tanner Instead Self-tanning creams are the safest

rays can signifi-

route to alternative tanning methods,

cantly increase

deepening skin tone to bronze that can last up to 10 days, gradually fading

of cancerous cell

over time. The spray tans available at

growth. Though there

salons are not FDA approved and can

may not be a surefire safe way to tan,

be harmful if accidentally ingested

glowing skin can be rejuvenating for

there are more reliable methods to

through the nose and mouth.

the mind, the skin bears the brunt of

minimize the potential skin damage

the stress caused by harsh UV rays.

that can occur within just 10 minutes

Tanning can cause wrinkles, premature

sion and should be avoided at all costs.

of sun exposure.

Don’t believe the myth that tanning

Know When to Reapply

beds are better than actual sun expo-

WHILE A DAY SPENT

aging, hyperpigmentation, sun spots, and skin cancer. (Aack!) All of which conflict directly with the neverending

The inner kid in all of us hates to do

Tanning beds are never a wise deci-

emit only dangerous UVA radiation.

youthful, lustrous complexions. Ah,

Research by the Melanoma Research

sunscreen to fill a shot glass, reapply-

beauty standards: forever contradic-

Foundation indicates that using

ing every two hours and after being

tory, confusing women worldwide.

tanning beds before age 30 increases

in the water to ensure that you are

your risk of developing melanoma by

creating a barrier between your skin

75 percent.

metropolitan area, I’m no stranger to packed Jersey Shore and Long Island

by applying SPF 30 at least a half hour

beaches lined in girls flipping over

before going outside.

every 15 minutes, cooking themselves

Be Thorough

like well-crafted gourmet pancakes.

While tip-toeing between beach blankets to secure your spot on the sand, it’s sometimes hard to miss some avid sun worshippers who clearly abused tanning oil back in their heyday. This leads me to ask: Is there really a safe way to tan, or at the very least, a way to reduce the potential skin damage

For more skin care advice, listen to and follow Tina Fermano, better known as @TheSkin.NY. A board-certified dermatology physician assistant

Don’t forget to apply sunscreen

with a growing Instagram following

to your ears, hairline, and part; your

sure knows best: “There is no such

underarms; the tops of your feet;

thing as a safe tan. However, protect-

your eyelids; lips; the top of hands;

ing your skin with proper SPF is

and your neck.

important. It’s best to apply SPF 30

Call Time-Out It’s important to know your limits

every day of the year, reapply every two hours, and avoid sitting in direct sunlight for extended periods of time!”

when it comes to sun exposure. Fair —CO N CET TA CIA RLO

Illustration by Nell Dobbs

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it. Experts recommend using enough

and UV rays. Start your day off right

31

sure. The majority of tanning bulbs

Lord of the Rings-esque journey for

Growing up in the New York

SPRIN G 2017 / B EAUTY

UVA and UVB

the likelihood

trying to get

30 minutes.

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ESSENTIALS:

/ MAKEUP /

FRE S H S U G A R

IT COSMETICS

SPF 15 / $24

YO U R S K I N B U T B E T T E R

These lip treatments have become a

CC CREAM SPF 50+ / $38

cult favorite in the beauty industry.

IT Cosmetics Your Skin But Better CC Cream beat every other foundation when it comes to SPF, with SPF 50+ UVA/UVB sunscreen. This CC Cream is the perfect in-between

S PR ING 2017 / B EAUTY

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product, since it isn’t as transparent as

tial to protect your skin, but no one wants to add putting on sunscreen into their daily skin care or makeup routine. The solution? Amazing beauty products that also include your daily dose of SPF make sun protection easy.

I went on an SPF scavenger hunt and found 12 beauty products with added SPF that might just change the game.

From drugstore to high-end brands, moisturizers to lipsticks, there’s a skin-saving product for everyone.

Photography by Michelle Massa Modeled by Alexis Simmon

They go on smoothly and instantly hydrate and soften your lips—as well as protect them from the sun with SPF 15. There’s a wide range of colors (and scents) available, so there’s something for everyone.

N E U T R O G E N A H E A LT H Y

as a foundation. This product is light-

S K I N A N T I - AG I N G

does a great job of color correcting.

that SPF is essen-

T I N T E D L I P T R E AT M E N T

a tinted moisturizer, and not as heavy weight, blends well into the skin, and

EVERYONE KNOWS

beauty products that save your skin

FO U N D AT I O N S P F 2 0 / $ 1 5

It would be perfect to wear in warm

If you don’t want to spend a lot of

weather when you don’t want to wear

money on a foundation, but still want

a lot of makeup.

a glowy, natural look, this product is

MILK MAKEUP SUNSHINE SKIN TINT SPF 30 / $42 What I love about this skin tint is that it provides you with an easy stick applicator that you can throw into

for you. This foundation is very similar to IT Cosmetics’ Your Skin But Better CC Cream, but at a fraction of the cost. It provides a very light coverage that can be built up if needed and is a great option for people with sensitive or acne-prone skin.

your bag and use later on the go. The formula is very lightweight but can be built up easily for whatever desired coverage you want. The end result is a fresh, dewy finish. If you have dry skin and want a natural, glowing look, this foundation is for you.

—KEL SEY TAYL O R KO ONTZ READ MORE AT BLUSHMAGFIT.COM

Mud baths are now available in many high-end spas, but they’ve been around for thousands of years as a way to relieve arthritis.

The mud is a combination of volcanic ash and heated mineral waters and can come from different sources such as lakes, saltwater seas such as the Dead Sea, hot springs, and mud volcanos like El Totumo in Colombia. the mud, many sufferers of psoriasis, rosacea, and spondylitis have found relief from mud baths.

Going to the spa can get pricey and living on a budget

SPRIN G 2017 / B EAUTY

Because of the minerals in

may make it impractical to pay for this kind of leisure.

Luckily, it is possible to

33

make your own mud bath at home, though it isn’t as dirt from your backyard. To start, fill a tub with hot water and add organic essential oils or bath salts if desired.

Dirty Feels Good Dermatologist Dr. R. Makala Anders says mud can “rejuvenate and stimulate skin cells,” which causes them to “plump up” for a more glowing appearance.

Photography by Lexie Lou Photo assistance by Elena Eshleman

IT’S TIME TO GET DOWN

When the tub is full, add two

and dirty with fangotherapy: the

use of mud, peat, and clay for healing purposes. Nowadays,

cups of moor mud and mix

there’s a huge emphasis on using face masks to purify and

it with the water, breaking

rejuvenate the skin. As a society, we value cleanliness, so

up any clumps with your

it seems counterintuitive that spreading dirt on your skin

hands. Slowly immerse

would be relaxing and beneficial. But it is, and it will make

yourself in the water for 20

you feel like a million muddy bucks.

minutes and rinse with warm

The purpose of a mud mask is to gently exfoliate the skin as it washes away dead skin cells, debris, and oil when it’s rinsed off. It doesn’t necessarily clean out pores like other masks. They can also contain sulfur, which is used as a natural antibacterial and for anti-inflammatory purposes.

Think of these masks as a lint roller for the face. Mud can also be used from the neck down in the form of a bath.

water when finished. Dry off and continue to relax in a comfortable place for at least 30 minutes. You will feel soft and radiant for the next couple of days.

Now, go get dirty!

— CARO L I N E WILCOX READ MORE AT BLUSHMAGFIT.COM

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simple as mixing water and

Ethnobotaneed 6 P LA NTS YOU NE E D IN YOU R E V E RY DAY S K IN CA R E ROU TI NE

B Y D E VO N RE I D

2 lavender essential oil Lavender is truly a superplant when it comes to skin

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1

care, hair care, and even nerve pain. For those who

tea tree

Tea tree oil works miracles as long as it’s used in moderation. If it’s overused, it’s known for causing severe dryness and irritation. However, if used correctly, tea tree oil can be used to treat cuts and

S PR ING 2017 / B EAUTY

me!), lavender can truly transform your skin. Lavender accelerates the healing process of eczema by moisturizing the skin, treat burns and acne, and, when mixed with water, can also be used as a toner. Another Pro tip: Use it to heal insect bites.

scrapes, care for acne, warts, dandruff, and even lice (gross!). It’s definitely not a bad idea to keep this one handy just in case!

34

struggle with extremely sensitive skin and eczema (like

3

Who would have thought chamomile isn’t just for tea!

rose extract

Rose is another anti-inflammatory and antiseptic ingredient to look for in skincare products. Added to that, it is the perfect moisturizer for dry skin, and those who are acne prone. No more struggling with dryness and breakouts, ladies and gents!

5

4 chamomile

aloe vera

Not only is it an anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antibacterial, and antiseptic, but it also contains essential oils and antioxidants to rid your skin of impurities. Once bacteria settles into your pores, it has the potential to cause dangerous infections, rashes, boils, cellulitis, and redness. (Ouch!) Chamomile allows you to be proactive so your skin doesn’t “get sick.”

6 calendula or pot marigold Different than annual marigold, calendula has been

There’s a reason aloe is a cliché when it comes to

used in medicine and health since before the 12th

plants in any sort of beauty product, particularly skin

century, giving you a good idea about how magical it

care. I’ll give you a hint—it’s because it really does

can be, considering that it stuck around for this long.

work! Its versatility makes it almost impossible to

It reduces inflammation and fights bacteria that can

resist incorporating into your daily routine. It can help

live and grow on the skin, which could make you prone

fight wrinkles, reduce acne and blemishes, and act

to acne. It’s been shown to give your skin a glowing,

as a moisturizer. In our current world, the need for a

plump look like no other. If you’re feeling like an avid

multitasking product is important, so you can never go

gardener, you can take dry leaves from calendula and

wrong with throwing this into your routine.

add them to your bath to take advantage of the benefits.

Illustrations by Taylor Bender

marketing opportunity. In the US, there are absolutely zero regulations concerning the term “natural.” Generally, a product can contain up to 30 percent synthetic ingredients and still be labeled natural. Although it is not uncommon for a brand to add a natural essence (around 1 percent of a formula) to a fully synthetic product in order to put “natural” on the label. The FDA states that ingredients on cosmetic labels must be listed in descending order by percentage. If a plant-based ingredient is are being played and the product is not as natural as it seems. After 1 percent, of acai bowls, coconut strict guidelines and many natural ingre- ingredients can be listed in any order; as water, and Instagram accounts devoted dients can be synthetically created (such a guide this is usually where fragrance WITH THE RISE

to yoga, you have probably been tempted as vitamin E) or processed in a lab, and is on the list. If the natural ingredients to leave all your material possessions still be considered “natural.” However, are listed after fragrance, skip it, as it’s

SPRIN G 2017 / B EAUTY

buried under tons of synthetic ones, you

behind and live your purest life. In it is important to keep in mind that just

ingredients do not include components

Unfortunately, many companies have

no genetically modified organisms. A such as synthetic dyes, petrochemicals, taken advantage of the fear surround- product must contain up to 95 percent parabens, and sodium lauryl sulfate. ing some synthetic ingredients and of organic ingredients to be certified

Photography by Julianna Mazza

Things get a little fuzzy as there are no turned “natural” products into a golden

organic. To ensure you are buying an organic product, it absolutely must have

It’s Only Natural: Exploring the World of Green Beauty

a USDA certified organic seal. Products must be made with at least 70 percent organic ingredients to be labeled “made with organic ingredients,” and even then there’s a chance the remaining 25 percent of ingredients may be synthetic.

—I SABEL L A CACC IATORE READ MORE AT BLUSHMAGFIT.COM

35 B LUSH MAGFIT.COM

most likely added for marketing claims, doing so, the first place you may have because something is natural does not not because it is providing any benefit. turned is your medicine cabinet. With mean it is good for you For example Organic products, on the other hand, rumours circulating about toxic and poison ivy is natural, and lavender oil actually have a specific and regulated abrasive ingredients, purging your stash is a common skin irritant. With that meaning. Organic ingredients must and starting fresh with a fully natural, or being said, the cosmetics industry in uphold certain standards and be grown organic beauty routine may have crossed the U.S. is relatively unregulated. Some under USDA guidelines. These guideyour mind. Because natural is better, common ingredients have been linked lines generally refer to the purity of an right? to long-term health issues such as alleringredient as well as the conditions In the simplest of words, natural refers gies, hormonal imbalances, and traces under which they are grown, such as to an ingredient that is found in nature, of carcinogens, but these issues will only cleanliness, types of pesticides and and not produced in a lab. Natural show effects over extended time if at all. fertilizers and the use of absolutely

Sunscreen brand Supergoop! has released a Barre to Bar Beauty set to take you from gym to drinks. The set includes SPF 50 setting mist, SPF 30 sunscreen serum, CC cream, and a lip and cheek tint in travel-friendly sizes.

It retails for $25 at Sephora.

New brand SWEAT Cosmetics was created by top female athletes who wanted products that combined skin

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care, sun protection, and makeup in one and would last through their

face forward fitness

intense training and be good for their skin. The brand offers mineral face products, built into brushes with refillable cartridges; their most popular product, Twist-Brush + Mineral Foundation comes in five shades and has an SPF of 30. The products are perfect to toss in your bag on your way who want to put their best face forward

out the door. The brush and founda-

of fashion brands have released collec-

while at the gym. The collection

tion cartridge cost $42, and the refill

tions inspired by athleisure, a relatively

includes a tinted moisturizer that comes

cartridge costs $24 at Sephora.

new term coined to represent the “just

in three shades, a waterproof brown

left the gym” look. The “athleisure

mascara that’s getting a ton of buzz

trend” has taken over the fashion

from YouTube’s beauty bloggers, blot-

world and it is now moving into the

ting powder and more. Both the Tarte

beauty industry. As millennials get

cosmetics website and Sephora offer

more interested in fitness and healthier

curated sets from the collection; one

lifestyles, fashion and beauty trends

such set includes the mascara, a high-

have followed. Instagram-popular

lighting moisturizer, a hydrating nude

brands such as Tarte cosmetics and

lipstick, and makeup remover wipes.

Milk Makeup have recently released

The set is called the Gym Bag Grabs

products that cater to customers who

Athleisure Essentials and retails for $29.

IS EXERCISE

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36

the new black? Hundreds

While Birchbox is primarily known for its beauty box subscription service, the brand released a makeup and skin care line called ARROW early last year for women with active lifestyles. The brand promises to enhance the wearer’s natural beauty with skin tint, brow gel, mascara, eyeliner, lip balm and more. The skin care part of the line offers an aluminium free deodorant, a soothing facial mist, and cleansing

want to maintain a full face of makeup

Milk Makeup offers the Vibes Vibes

before, after, and during exercise. The

cloths. Most of ARROW’s products are

Vibes set which includes the blur stick

products are waterproof, sweatproof,

under $20 and all are exclusively avail-

for creating a matte, poreless complex-

and are versatile enough to take you

able through Birchbox.

ion, bronzer and blush sticks for an

from the gym to school or work, just

added glow, and a cooling water stick

like their fashion counterparts.

to hydrate and cool down post-

Tarte cosmetics pioneered this

workout for $48. For the laziest

trend, releasing the world’s first-ever

among us, the set is a great way to to

“athleisure collection” of makeup and

adopt a “swipe and go” approach to

skin care designed for girls and guys

gym beauty routines.

Illustration by Amanda Pita

These collections have been so successful in the beauty blogosphere, that consumers will definitely be seeing more athleisure cosmetics on the market in the months to come.

—SAR AH MI CHE LSON

HYDRATION SENSATION

1 BUY A WATER BOTTLE YOU LIKE While seemingly obvious, the simple act of buying a water bottle that you find aesthetically pleasing may increase your chances of taking it wherever you go and remembering to drink up.

5 CREATIVE WAYS TO STAY HYDRATED

2 DOWNLOAD AN APP With an app like Waterlogged, all you have to do is record your daily water intake, and then you will know if you are on the right track. The app makes the process easy by allowing you to set how you want to be reminded it is time to drink, fits your style.

3 INFUSE YOUR WATER WITH FRUITS AND HERBS

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and you are able to choose the type of container that best

Adding fruits like strawberries and cucumbers or an herb like mint adds flavor to water, making it a more enjoyable experience. Having fruit added to your water is also a health-

37

ier option because nutrients will infuse your water. Adding a fruit like lemon has been proven to speed up your metabo-

4 SET GOALS AND REWARD YOURSELF We have all heard that we must drink eight glasses of water a day, but is that true? While the number of glasses vary by an individual’s lifestyle, the Institute of Medicine has determined that women should have about nine cups of water a day, and men should have roughly 13. Drinking water helps maintain overall good health because it helps with an individual’s digestion, flushes out toxins which can help clear skin, boosts energy levels, and can naturally relieve headaches and migraines. Though it may seem difficult at times to keep up with the daily recommended intake, there are five ways to make it easier!

Set drinking goals and rewards for every goal met.

Whether you treat yourself with your favorite dessert or a shopping trip, having an incentive may just be the motivation you need.

5 STAY ACTIVE By working out, walking more when possible, or doing anything that keeps you moving and burning up a sweat, you are bound to get thirsty. This way, you can stay fit and hydrated!

—JOAN N E ME KONE N

Photography by Gillian Milberg

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lism while keeping you energized.

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getting on the

CLEAN BEAUTY train

bens are almost phased out, microbeads have been banned, and more products are becoming sodium laureth sulfate– free. But the biggest stride of them all? Clean beauty has become cool.

While erstwhile clean beauty enthusiasts had to resort to dipping

HERE’S A SCARY THOUGHT. THE MASCARA

you use to volu-

mize, the face cream you slather, the serum you decant and

38

Since then, strides have been made to close the gap. Para-

the hairspray you spritz—all of it is basically unregulated.

This means that companies can do whatever they want, unchecked by government laws, and can pack the products we love chock-full of any number of toxic ingredients that may even include carcinogens and hormone disrupters.

A study done last year,

their fingers into grocery store coconut oil jars, shelves are now being stocked with high-functioning products with short ingredient lists and instagrammable packaging. (See Moonlight Catalyst by Kypris.

You’re welcome!) CAP beauty, a clean beauty store in

commissioned by

downtown New York City, is a shop-spa hybrid, and lines

beauty brand Kari Gran,

its shelves with synthetics-free products from chic natural

found that nearly 60

ingredient–based mainstays like RMS, Shiva Rose, Tata

percent of over 1,100

Harper, and Kjaer Weiss, as well as from emerging brands

women read beauty

including May Lindstrom and Kypris.

product ingredient labels before purchase, and 54 percent of women claimed that it’s important

If words like surfactants, formaldehyde, carcinogens, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, and DBP start to give you

for their skin care products to be nontoxic. Still, there’s no

the heebie-jeebies, a quick Marie Kondo of your skin care

independent body or government entity that inspects the

routine might be the station at which to get on board. A rule

ingredients that make up personal care products. There

of thumb includes making sure you can pronounce all the

hasn't even been a law passed to regulate these products

ingredients on the back of the bottle. Chamomile sounds

since 1938.

better than 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3 anyway.

—AVAN T I DA LA L

Illustrations by Meagan Dowling

BY RYAN N CASEY

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The Future of Beauty Is Sustainable

39 The beauty industry is focused on sustainable try inside perspective of personal and professional experience, we learn what is being done to push a sustainable agenda in the beauty category.

Virginia Bonofiglio, associate chairperson of the Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing program at FIT, talks us through the importance of sustainability, how it is currently being implemented into all aspects of the beauty industry, and the future advancements we can look forward to.

Continued on next page...

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innovation across the board. Through the indus-

FRAGRANCE & COSMETICS Virginia has years of well rounded experience across the beauty board. She began her career working for a fragrance oil company, traveling down the path to become a perfumer.

This is where she was first introduced to sustainability, through her background in chemistry in a laboratory and manufacturing setting.

“We were part of the chemical industry, and the chemical industry was always concerned with sustainability,” Virginia explained. She went on to describe how their sustainable

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focus was on chemical sourcing, disposal process, and water

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usage. Companies implement sustainable strategies at many levels, and Virginia feels that “today’s fragrance companies are extraordinarily sustainable.”

“In their annual reports, cosmetic companies have

PA C K A G I N G & RECYCLING Packaging is an area of the beauty industry that is married

enormous agendas in sustainability,” Virginia explains,

to sustainability. Virginia notices that many companies are

discussing how these companies produce products with

opting for refillable and recyclable packaging. She also

innovative sustainability practices incorporated at each

recalls that for years the beauty industry did not use recy-

stage. She assures us that “the beauty industry is ahead of

cled board because they couldn’t print on it as nicely as they

the curve with it’s strong sustainable agenda, because we

could on virgin board, but since they solved that problem

realize that we cannot maintain these businesses unless

they’ve turned to recycled materials. Companies are initi-

we are sustainable.”

ating recycling programs, and encouraging customers to

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return their containers and utilize refillable options.

INGREDIENTS & SOURCING Companies are now really concerned with where they are sourcing their raw materials from, how they’re made and how they’re processed. It’s a linear sustainable effort because they want to source locally where they can and want to only use ingredients that are from renewable resources.

Many new ingredients being created are coming from sustainable resources. The industry push is to move away from Petroleum based ingredients. “Through biochemistry, a lot of raw materials are being created from renewable resources like sugar and corn,” Virginia acknowledges. She is assured that for anything the industry has yet to find a sustainable way of producing or a sustainable alternative, it is only a matter of time before a replacement is found.

Illustration of Virginia Bonofiglio by Amy Geller Illustrations of objects by Gabrielle Chang

HUMAN & SOCIAL Sustainability isn’t only about the environment and going green. The effort involves human and social sustainability as equally important factors. Virginia recognizes that protecting the indigenous people that grow raw materials is important in the industry and to many companies.

The power of capitalism can support economic sustainability by meeting the needs of people running that capitalistic machine. Virginia feels that “maintaining economic power is important because we are so highly mechanized and have such a strong manufacturing background in the US that we can produce sustainably and should be the we should be on the forefront of sustainability because we have the infrastructure to do so.

BEAUTY BUYERS What can we do as beauty consumers? “The consumer

continue to become more transparent as beauty lovers seek out deeper information.

Virginia describes sustainability as “development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the

adding “if a company is really doing a great job on sustain-

ability of future generations to meet their needs.” Sustain-

ability, the consumer needs to buy their products.” As

ability is not one thing but is an integrated conscious part

beauty consumers, we continue to educate ourselves about

of our lives. As informed and intelligent consumers with

the products we consume and the business practices of

insight from industry professionals like Virginia, we can

the companies we buy from. The extreme regulations of

continue to put our money where our mouth is and push for

the beauty industry help keep companies honest, and they

a sustainable planet, one beauty product at a time.

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SUSTAINABILITY

AT

FIT

FIT has many ongoing sustainability initiatives.

1

able and eco friendly dye practices by producing natural plant based indigo dye.

3

2

Cotton Muslin Composting: transforms composted cotton muslin into nutrients for dye garden.

FIT Hives: establishes a beehive at FIT that explains the importance of bees on the environment, and allows students to harvest ingredients such as beeswax.

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needs to vote with their pocketbook,” Virginia declares,

Rooftop Natural Dye Garden: promotes sustain-

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leaders in green manufacturing.” She addresses the fact that

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42

It might be trendy to wear a thrifted pair of

companies put out 52 seasons worth of merchan-

jeans that came from an ’80s mo, but joining the

dise a year compared to the traditional four is

vintage and thrift trend is more than a fad. Without

astonishing. Three factors are the backbone of

realizing it, you’re actually helping combat the

such operations which contribute to an

of fast fashion. Zara, Topshop, and Forever21 are

advantageous yet unsustainable business model:

among fast fashion companies or the Mcdonald’s

speed, efficiency, and flexibility. Though a supply

of the fashion industry if you will. They make us

chain that works this fast might be beneficial for

feel content and fulfilled with purchasing reason-

the companies in terms of revenue, that’s about

able, cute clothing, yet are damaging our Earth

the only benefit.

and its citizens. This creates a love hate relationship with our go-to stores.

The environment is severely hurting from t hese supply chains due to the sheerly enormous

Over the last few years awareness has been

amount of waste and pollution that fast fashion

raised regarding fast-fashion’s unjust and damag-

generates. Air freight and consequent carbon emis-

ing supply chain. After countless factory collapses

sions are saturating the air as a result of constant

around the world, documentaries like The True

deliveries, the pollution of water from dyes used on

Cost, and skeptics wondering how it is possible to

fabrics are washed into waterways, and we

sell jeans for as low $10, people are starting to take

can’t forget the sheer overuse of water. Did you

notice. It is an understatement to say that these

know a standard T-shirt takes 2,700 liters of

companies are negatively impacting humans and

water to produce?

the environment. The mere fact that these

B Y M I CHAEL A DEL VI SCOVO

We all love the earth and the humans that inhabit it too. The operations behind fast fashion companies never fail to impact the employees behind them. The employees working for these companies, which are mostly composed of women and children, are subjected to strenuous working conditions without justifiable pay. Most labor used in production take place in countries where minimum wage is nonexistent. Because many employees in underprivileged countries are desperate for any sort of income regardless of the wage, they don’t complain.

Conversely, fast fashion also affects us, the consumer.

What can you do to help? Circling back to the first statement, shopping at thrift stores is more than “cool”.

prices sends a signal to consumers to buy, buy, buy with

It also serves as a method of boycotting fast fashion, and

little guilt. In turn this has led to mindless purchases

now you know why. Though aiming to stop brands like

consequently accumulating a massive amount of need-

Zara from subjecting employees to working in hot facto-

less merchandise in their closets. It is safe to say that fast

ries and earning close to nothing would be ideal, they are

fashion has made us greedy and consistently expect more and more at virtually no cost.

Here’s a real-world example: Zara’s business model.

Retail analysts say it is built on two fundamental strategies: stocking less merchandise and updating collections more often. Another strategy is giving customers what they want before they even know they want it, like knocking merchandise). Taking all of this into consideration the root of the model is timing; it that proves great for Amancio Ortega, the founder of Zara, and his bank account, but proves detrimental to the environment and employees.

huge companies profiting incomprehensible amounts, so the chances that they’ll change are slim. Right now all we can do is avoid these stores as much as we can. Shop from sustainable retailers, go to your local thrift store (Depop for the online thrifters), or even buy less clothing in general. Living as minimalistic as possible might just be the solution to this issue.

Yes, cutting out fast-fashion is unrealistic for many of us but make a conscious effort to avoid it. Do you really need the same pair of uncomfortable patent leather booties from Zara that just about everyone you know has?

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off designer brands (another characteristic of fast-fashion

T H E O P E R AT I O N S B E H I N D FA S T – FA S H I O N C O M PA N I E S N E V E R FA I L T O I M PA C T T H E E M P L OY E E S BEHIND THEM.

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The incredible quantity of items put out at such low

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WHAT ABOUT

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THE PEOPLE? many believe that the social impact

regulations of factories. While this was

fashion industry has made great

of fashion is just as important as the

great on paper, many companies are

strides to become more sustainable.

carbon footprint it leaves, a majority of

still finding themselves in hot water.

From designer to fast fashion, there

that group doesn’t understand how the

Even companies that try to market

are many companies that pride them-

choices they make affect both parts.

themselves as eco-friendly can have a

THROUGH THE PAST

few years, the

selves on taking an environmentally

The state of factories around the

very negative impact on the workers

friendly approach. On top of that, the

world has been watched much closer

consumer has become more educated

over the past few years. On April 24,

about the impact their clothes can have

2013, the Rana Plaza collapsed in

Swedish fast-fashion chain stresses

on the world around them. Unfor-

creating the products.

Take H&M for example. The

Bangladesh. As a result, 1,134 workers

their conscious collection and clothing

tunately, many people do not realize

died and over 2,000 were injured. On

recycling program. At the same time

that just because a product is good

May 15, 2013, the Accord on Fire and

H&M has been involved in many scan-

for the earth, doesn’t mean it’s good

Building Safety in Bangladesh was

dals involving factories. H&M signed

for the workers who make it. While

signed in an attempt to fix the safety

the Bangladesh accords but has seen

many delays in implementing safety

is happening at the factories and there-

The money is able to be used to create

conditions. When the factories were

fore avoids any legal responsibility. A

increased wages or for projects better-

checked again over three years later, 69

retailer will provide the price each item

ing the surrounding community.

percent of factories had not completed

needs to be sold at and this leads to

the installation of all fire-rated doors.

any extra expenses being taken out of

responsible brand is Eileen Fisher.

In late 2016, it was revealed that while

the worker’s income. On top of that,

Working toward a goal of having 100

making H&M products, almost 8,000

retailers have not recently increased

percent organic cotton and linen

Cambodian workers have collapsed

the amount they pay the manufactur-

fibers, responsible dyes, carbon posi-

since 2010. This occurred as a result

ers. The Labor Department states that

tive operations and a no-waste facility,

of conditions such as malnutrition,

retailers focus most of their inspections

there’s no doubt this company under-

excessive heat and long hours. Many

on factories abroad and do not have

stands the importance of environ-

of the collapses happened at factories

the same level of scrutiny in the U.S.

mental practices. Eileen Fisher places

Another sustainable and socially

just as much emphasis

level. At the same facto-

on the people who are

ries, workers were being

creating it’s clothes.

paid below poverty wages,

The company has been

104 pounds a month or

a Signatory member of

approximately 129 dollars.

Social Accountability International, an orga-

negative press is towards

nization which creates

factories overseas, the

and implements labor

problem is just as present

standards that are socially

in our own country. In

responsible, since 1997.

November 2016 it was

Through this the SA8000

announced that the

was developed, which

U.S. Labor Department

lays out a standard all

had investigated 77 Los

workplaces must reach.

Angeles based garment

It addresses issues such

companies from April

as child labor regulation,

to July of the same year.

Violations were found in 85 percent

forced labor, discriminaOn the flip side, Patagonia takes the

tion, and maximum hours per week.

of the cases. Workers were paid as

place of a model company. Not only

little as four dollars an hour and an

are they strong defenders of the envi-

not hard to be a smart shopper. Take a

average of seven dollars an hour with

ronment, the company donated all ten

few minutes to research your favorite

the state minimum wage standing at

million dollars it made on black friday

companies and discover their practices.

$10 an hour. The three retailers which

to grassroots environmental groups,

Additionally, you can discover brands

were tied to the worst offenders were

which means that it is socially respon-

you may have never heard of or ones

Forever21, TJ Maxx, and Ross Dress

sible as well. The company provides

which are just starting out. Dig a little

for Less.

breakdown of their history, including

deeper, buy quality over quantity, and

any mistakes they’ve made, on their

remember that each person can make

with it? Retailers make sure to never

website. Through their Fair Trade

a difference. Your wallet is your vote on

work directly with the factories, creat-

Certified program Patagonia pays an

how you want workers to be treated.

ing a barrier between them. This way,

additional sum of money to workers

Use it wisely.

each retailer has no connection to what

at factories included in the program.

So how do these companies get away

Illustration by Gabrielle Chang

Luckily, thanks to the internet, it’s

—SAR AH FIE LD ING

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While much of the

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H&M had rated gold

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W

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46

hen President-elect Donald

States, they were met with extensive,

resurged the crusade for environmen-

Trump was inaugurated into

untouched lands thriving with valu-

tal sustainability. People quickly took

office, the nation found itself faced with

able resources – timber, fur, vast water

to the streets, organizing protests and

threat; hoping to cut Planned Parent-

routes which could aid in trade. As

sit-ins coast-to-coast in the interest

hood funding, overthrow the Affordable

pioneers ventured west in the hunt

of raising environmental awareness

Care Act, and eliminate immigration,

for gold, their roads and development

amongst D.C. politicians. The Envi-

the administration immediately estab-

scarred the terrain, wildlife was slaugh-

ronmental Protection Agency (EPA),

lished itself as a danger to basic civil

tered and Native Americans were forced

the Clean Air Act and the Clean Water

liberties, instead favoring economic

from their rightful lands. From this, a

Act were all implemented as a result of

and militaristic incentives.

generation known as transcendental-

Ms. Carson’s book and the nationwide

For the purpose of this article,

ists emerged. Henry David Thoreau

conversation it ignited.

however, we will focus on one peril in

and Ralph Waldo Emerson champi-

As illustrated by our nation’s

particular: that is, the Trump admin-

oned naturalist lifestyles through short

past, sustainability begins and ends

istration’s threat to the environment.

stories and personal essays, while Aldo

with public policy. The aforemen-

With an office which favors payouts

Leopold’s nonfiction A Sand County

tioned initiatives reflected over 200

and private interests over scientific

Almanac promoted “land ethic”, thus

years’ worth of fight for sustainability

reasoning and undeniable fact, we now

sparking the first American environ-

and set a precedent for the future, and

find ourselves in a heightened age of

mentalist movement.

the Trump administration currently

anti-intellectualism which has already taken deep tolls on our ecosystem.

To understand our modern situation, we must first look to the past.

When European settlers first arrived in what is now known as the United

The

environmental

movement

went on a hiatus between World War I

stands as a paramount roadblock for future progress.

and World War II, however the cause

Before Trump even took office, it

quickly gained momentum come the

was clear that climate change initiatives

1960s. Published during a time period

were absent on his list of priorities.

known for its liberal social movements,

The President-elect has made various

Rachel Carson’s 1962 Silent Spring

claims discrediting climate change, tweeting, in typical Trump fashion, that “the concept of global warming was created by and for the Chinese in order to make U.S. manufacturing non-competitive”. As most things do, Trump’s motivation for denying science can be traced to one factor: money.

Exhausting his effort, Trump has repeated his beliefs that climate change initiatives are simply too expensive.

Let us not overlook the fact that this is coming from a man who wants to spend up to $15 million on a border

Illustration by Brandon Saloy

wall between the U.S. and Mexico

United States’ ratification of the agree-

Our environment is falling victim to

while increasing military spending by

ment served as a historical landmark.

such dire pressures that we as a popula-

$54 million. Seeing that we already

Completely dismissing the utmost

tion have to be willing to make drastic

have a protected southern border and a

vitality of the Paris Agreement and the

changes in order to turn it around.

military budget which stood at $523.9

United States’ involvement in it, Trump

Yes, this might mean giving up our

billion in the 2017 fiscal year, it’s safe

has established that he has no interest

beloved New York sirloins and taking

to presume that that money could be

in continuing in Obama’s footsteps as

up a vegan lifestyle instead and yes,

allocated towards other, underfunded

he plans to withdrawal from the deal.

this might mean that you have to stop

initiatives such as green energy and eco-technology which would safeguard the health of American citizens while potentially serving as economic stimuli.

Trump, along with a Republican-maCongress, has

taken

direct

these

ill-informed

and blatantly reckless decisions will manifest

into

catastrophic

results.

The environment has been placed on the backburner, despite the fact that climate change and ecological destruc-

driving your beloved SUV, however if all the 318.9 million Americans dedicated themselves to improving their carbon footprint and thinking before doing, tangible progress would be in close reach.

swings at environmental integrity since

Please—research what you are doing.

assuming office. Within mere hours

Examine what you are eating, where

of Trump’s inauguration, the White House’s webpage on climate change policy was mysteriously stripped -- an instant indication that the administration will not stand to be be bothered with environmental policy.

Representative Matt Gaetz proposed

As illustrated by our nation’s past, sustainability begins and ends with public policy.

it came from and its possible ecological repercussions. Take a step back and reflect on how your actions impact the world around you. Employ the science that Trump is disconcertingly trying to expel. During a time where fake news and “alternative facts” are far too

H.R. 861 on Feb. 3, a bill which

common, never stop questioning and

suggests that the EPA be eradicated

never stop searching for answers. tion is the single greatest and most

unlikely that the bill will be passed, the

urgent threat to humanity.

Most of all, after you’ve done your research, fight for what’s right. Join

simple fact that it is given any thought

If we as a nation were to make an

protests, write your district represen-

whatsoever is a red flag as it sets a

actual commitment to salvaging the

tative, get involved in your community.

damaging paradigm and suggests to

environment, we would have to say

Vote for representatives who reflect and

the public that dispelling and ignoring

goodbye to our comfortable, conve-

epitomize your morals and have the

scientific research fact is okay.

nient lifestyles and dedicate time, effort

nation’s best interests at heart. Stop

Former president Barack Obama

and research into what we consume

waiting for someone else to take action

established legacy with the signing of

and how it impacts the environment --

and start taking action yourself. If you

the Paris Agreement, ensuring the rest

unfortunately, this is one of the many

find yourself worrying about the future

of the world that America is serious

reasons why we have yet to make prog-

state of Earth, do not wait for someone

about committing itself to an environ-

ress. Although using a reusable water

else to stand up and fight the environ-

mentally-conscious future. The Paris

bottle is better than purchasing count-

ment’s battle and take the reigns in

Agreement, in short, is a global initiative

less disposable plastic ones that fill our

your own hands. Imagine the progress

hosted by the United Nations Frame-

oceans and landfills and choosing your

that could be made if each person lived

work Convention on Climate Change

bike over your car is better for both

with this mindset.

which ultimately seeks to implement

your health and carbon dioxide emis-

actions to reduce climate change. As a

sions, leading a sustainable life extends

leader of greenhouse gas emissions, the

well beyond individual, little changes.

—MADELYN A DA MS READ MORE AT BLUSHMAGFIT.COM

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in its entirety. Although it is extremely

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jority

Unfortunately,

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BY ED INA SZ A BO

In that case, you’re probably better off loading a building with

ment and have a bigger piece of the Big Apple overall?

dollars. The property is located on 80 South Street in Manhattan.

ensure that high rise buildings won’t denigrate the quality of life of

Whether you decide to buy air rights or not, this is a huge investment, and you might be able to do it only after your business becomes very successful.

airspace. Unless we are talking about historical buildings, in which case the government can permit developers to use air rights. In

Last year, only three transfers occurred greater than $10 million.

they might have the right to build up to thirty-five stories of

How many stories high can they build? In the downtown area,

Nonetheless, the number of air rights trades are declining.

feet of rights from Edison Properties for a cost of 64.6 million

regulated by zoning laws. These city regulations are intended to New Yorkers.

Howard Hughes purchased a rough estimate of 150,000 square

One of the largest air rights deal happened in 2015 when

there to capitalize on that. But developers’ hands are tight and

light coming through our windows, and real estate developers are

bigger bulk than a tower on a base.”

“Developers are often better off buying more land than air rights.

wouldn’t want to expand the square footage of their own apart-

Most of us are willing to pay more for a better view and better

Robert Shapiro, president of City Center Real Estate, said,

In the end, is it worth investing in air rights? Air rights expert

building offers any benefits to the public.

factors: the location of the lot, the use of the building, and if the

the loft. However, it doesn’t stop there. FAR depends on three

site which can be built has to be relative to the square footage of

ing. In other words, the maximum number of square feet on the

should be familiar with the floor-to-area ratio (FAR) of the build-

order to regulate the heights of the development, the developer

to turn your business idea into reality. On the other hand, who

investment, especially when you are looking for an office space

a taller building. This comes in handy and sounds like a lucrative

the developer to acquire the building’s unused air space to erect

than what the neighborhood zoning laws allow, then you can ask

mean that if a building adjacent to a construction site is lower

(also called Transferable Development Rights or TDRs), basically

revamp of zoning laws in New York City. New York City air rights

The air rights extravaganza started in the 1960’s with the

rights.

but think again. You might want to consider investing in some air

Life after graduation seems far away when you’re still in school,

The Sky’s the Limit: The Untold Story of Air Rights in New York

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2

five boroughs

Best area to find these: Almost every area in Manhattan and the

landmarks.

neighborhoods, due to the unused air rights of underbuilt

occur when new construction takes place in less dense

ous. One of the biggest advantages of this is that they usually

other properties. These properties don’t have to be contigu-

the air rights to transfer between landmark properties and

Preservation Commission. New York City zoning laws allow

culturally significant, and are protected by the Landmarks

Landmark transfers. These properties are historically and

District, or 125th District

Best area to find these: Garment Center District, Hudson Yards

granting and receiving sites that are not contiguous.

zoning requirements. Air rights can be exchanged between

in New York City designated by the commission stipulates

Specific purpose district transfers. All specific districts

Illustration by Lena Kourgouzov

3

2

Manhattan

Best area to find these: south of Central Park in

of transfer, and you can gain a huge profit after selling it.

thing about this? The city doesn’t have to approve this type

developer starts to build a higher building. What is the best

an adjacent property. You link it with your property, and the

unused development rights and you work with a developer of

Zoning lot mergers. You have an underbuilt property with

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There are three ways to own/sell air rights:

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Alternative Facts: Selling climate change to non believers LIKE AN INCREASING NUMBER OF PEOPLE MY AGE,

I don’t watch a lot of

terrestrial TV anymore. Hours of flipping from entertainment news to an

50

the wayside in favor of the usual streaming fare. But there’s one show I need to

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arthouse film to Kardashians to CNN and back to Kardashians has gone by

ity for free speech is often manifested in scathing (dare I say “shady”!) political

watch live, or at least on my DVR a few hours later: Real Time with Bill Maher.

Bill Maher is HBO’s premier “pinko-commie” liberal comedian whose affinhumor in all of HBO’s uncensored glory. Real Time is the Friday-night talk show on which Maher moderates a panel of commentators from both sides of the political aisle, with conservatives, whether they be senators or pornographers, invited to either express their views with dignity or make complete asses of themselves— whichever comes first. (Tomi Lahren was a recent guest; it was almost too difficult to watch.) I’ve been a big fan of the show since long before I was of a an appropriate age to be watching late-night premium cable, and I watch it every week.

I also watch it, quite regularly, with my dad.

Right up front, my dad is a really, really nice guy. And funny too. He likes a good stereo system, the New York Mets, and very strong iced tea. He enjoys grilling when he eats in and joking with waitresses when he dines out. He once told me there are two modern miracles in life: jazz and baseball.

He’s also a very smart person. He’s maybe the most educated consumer I’ve ever met. He knows how to change the oil in my car, which I honestly think is the most impressive thing a person can do for themselves. Some of my FIT tuition has been paid off by some good investments he made on my behalf in my infancy.

Illustration by Brandon Saloy

My dad is also pretty conservative. That grilling I

I would be lying if I said this disagreement doesn’t get to my head sometimes. At best, it’s just a little confusing. I

apron (in his defense, it was a gift!), and I’ve never seen

can’t imagine, within my own liberal bubble, how he can’t

him respond to the mention of anyone’s name with as much

be filled with the same feeling of overwhelming dread and

revulsion as he does to Hillary Clinton. On a trip to Wash-

desire to see substantial changes made to the way we treat

ington, D.C. when I was a kid, he jokingly blamed every-

the planet.

thing from long lines at national monuments to gum on the street on the sitting president. (Thanks, Obama!)

One Friday a few weeks ago, I stayed the night at my

Then I started to think, “What if he doesn’t need to be?”

A few years ago the family Ford Escape was stolen out of the driveway of my childhood home. A month later, with no car to be found, Dad bought a used Subaru Forester.

the last few minutes of Maher’s weekly broadcast. My dad

I remember remarking that the Forester called itself a

sat down across the room with an amaretto. Now, before

“PZEV,” or a “Partial Zero Emissions Vehicle.” In other

you accuse me of forcing my father to watch liberal TV, let

words, for all I knew it was an extension cord short of being

me say that he does watch the show without me from time

a hybrid car, and I fancied that a pretty progressive move.

to time. Additionally, I would argue the amount of FOX

Not to mention he bought it used. Was my dad contributing

News I have to sit through makes this even.

to cutting emissions purely on accident?

That night, Maher was in the middle of one of his usual

The 2009 Subaru Forester got about 26 miles to every

rants on his most fervent subject: climate change. He began

gallon on the highway, and for a man who commutes every

by questioning why America is “the only civilized nation”

day by car, this was very important. The same can be said

still boasting a “major party” that doesn’t believe in climate

about the LED lights throughout the house that cut back

change, and then went on to compare Clinton and Trump’s

on the electricity bills. When I thought about it, I realized

stances on the environment. Dad cracked a snide remark

that nearly every appliance in the house is considered for its

about Hillary’s emails.

energy, or rather cost, efficiency.

My dad does not believe in climate change.

Sorry. Fake news. He does believe in climate change. The

Climate, whether you believe the information that’s out there, is a scary reality. When I think about it, it must be

climate is changing all right, but according to him, “not any

really sweet living in a world you don’t have to worry about;

faster or worse than it has been for millions of years.” In

I’d love to live in that world. Not everyone is going to be

other words, he believes that humans do not contribute to

sold on the facts until it affects their backyards, but the way

the climate. And he’s not alone! Upon mentioning writing

we package sustainability practices can convince people to

this piece to a number of friends, I was shocked how many

reduce their footprint for their own lives if not the planet.

people could relate. One mentioned an opinionated aunt saying, “We haven’t had real debates on it, I’ve just accepted the fact that I don’t wanna deal with her ideas.”

—BR AN DON SA LOY

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dad’s house on Long Island and flipped on HBO to catch

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mentioned before is done in a “What Would Reagan Do?”

ARTIST FEATURE

laura cervini B LUSH MAGFIT.C O M

“ We live in a society dominated by greed and waste. 40% of all produce grown in the U.S. never reaches a food store or the mouths of any hungry individual because they are deemed “too ugly.”

What divides ugly and unique? On every level, our society is brainwashed.There is beauty to be found in each crevice, lump, and scar on every piece of life on this planet. More importantly, there are drastic changes we have to make to ensure the continuation of life on this planet. By the year 2050, the production of food will have to increase by 70% to feed everyone on the planet. At the rate we

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are going, current production methods are not practical.We need a revolution in farming, and a mass movement from society to wake

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up. To stand out against harmful chemicals plastering our food, so it looks more appealing, while simultaneously causing cancer. The solutions are out there.We stand in a pinnacle point in time. Let us wake up, educate one another, and be the change our world needs.”

—Laura Cervini See more work at cerviniphotography.com or @the_holy_guacamole on Instagram.

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FIGHTING THE G L O B A L W AT E R CRISIS WATER IS A FUNDAMENTAL

part of human life, yet many

are left without it. Over half of the developing world

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doesn’t have access to clean water. Imagine waking up everyday and not being able to brush your teeth, have a glass of water with breakfast, or even take a shower.

Imagine not being able to attend school because you have to walk five miles every day to get water for your family and that that same water was filled with bacteria and disease. This is reality for so many and why the global water crisis is a growing concern.

It may seem like this is an impossible fight, but it can be

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stopped. True Thabo, a nonprofit organization I founded with Jaclyn Campson, is on a mission to provide as many

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people with clean water as we can. Jaclyn and I were two students at the University of Scranton. After various volunteer trips to Africa, I noticed there was a common thread—a lack of access to clean water. When I arrived home to America, I developed a business plan with Jaclyn, a classmate at the University of Scranton, to combat this issue, and True Thabo was born.

True Thabo sells reusable water bottles to raise funds to supply primary schools in Livingstone, Zambia, with water purification systems so that every student has access to clean water and a proper education.

Our goal for water action month is to raise enough funds in one month to supply a school with clean water. How can you help? Head over to our website, truethabo.com, and buy a bottle. Have a group, club, or team? You can now get customized tumblers for your group. There is no easier way Photography by Emily Schindler

to give back as a group. Do your part in making clean water a right not a privilege!

—MAR I SSA FRA NK

Sustainability Isn’t Just FIT’s Favorite Buzzword: It’s a Feminist Issue Sustainability: H&M’s organic cotton, recycling/compost-

BY CASSAN DR A GAGN O N

gender identity, sexuality, and more—all apply to each of

ing, and corporate social responsibility. Feminism: Taylor

these, and they each apply to each other. In fact, the fifth

Swift girl gang, pink pussy hats, “This is what a feminist

of 17 major goals of the sustainable development program

looks like.”

is gender equality. Even at such a high level the two are regarded as intertwined.

the media, it’s hard to remember the actual weight of envi-

We can’t acknowledge feminism without realizing the

ronmental and gender issues (two things that are not mutu-

impact sustainability has on our fellow sisters such as the

ally exclusive). It has been 70 degrees in February and the

women putting harsh products on their skin to conform to

new head of the EPA thinks the EPA shouldn’t exist. Sexual

conventional beauty norms, the women in underdeveloped

assault lawsuits don’t impact the success of a person’s

countries unable to provide clean water, one of their many

career. Marital and date rape are new concepts, socially and

homemaking duties. Sustainability in America became

legally. Women of color make even less than white women,

trendy in the early 2000s with canvas totes and has come

who make less than white men.

a long way since then, but that doesn’t mean it’s where it

To think that feminism and environmentalism don’t go

needs to be. Sustainability isn’t just eating a farm-to-table

shops that make your mass produced “feminist” apparel

If we didn’t want to listen to Al Gore’s “inconvenient truth”

isn’t exploitative of women. It’s to ignore that, linguistically,

back then, it’s time we start listening to women around the

our planet has been feminized as “Mother” Earth through-

world now.

out our culture, and when harmed is described using the same terms we use with battered women: ravaged, raped, and plundered. Nature is feminine and conquered by men in this rhetoric, and yet the emotional responsibility of taking on sustainability issues is still put on women, who are expected to care more.

But if we are caring more, why don’t women head any congressional committees on the subject? Because science is still an unwelcome subject for women. And this is in a developed nation. For the level of nationalism being spread around lately, we sure do not take care of the land we love to say we love. We build pipelines while not cleaning water in Flint.

U.N. Women has named “sustainable development” as one of its main goals, alongside ending violence toward women and HIV/AIDS treatment. Intersectionality in feminism, which covers a whole scope of race, ethnicity, ability, Illustrated by Amanda Corrieri

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hand in hand is to say that women working in the sweat-

brunch in Greenpoint, or buying a fair trade Eileen Fisher.

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In a never-ending circle of buzzwords on campus and in

So what can we do to help slow climate change? You can start by eating less meat and dairy products. Reducing the amount of these types of foods you consume is not only good for the environment, it is also for your body.

You don’t have to cut meat and dairy out of your diet altogether, but start by having a day on which you don’t

Climate Change Causes

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You May Not Know About

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substitutes for these products that taste just like the real thing, or even better.

If we reduce the amount of meat and dairy products consumed each year,

WHEN MOST PEOPLE THINK

about

a greater amount of energy is being

what they can do to help the envi-

used to produce less food. Resources

ronment, they think about recycling

that could be used to feed developing

paper, using less energy, and carpool-

countries are instead being used to

ing. What they don’t think about is

feed livestock.

eating less meat. Eating less meat

58

eat meat. There are many delicious

But this type of food production

could potentially help slow climate

system isn’t just bad for the environ-

change more than any of the actions

ment; it’s harmful to the health of

listed above (not that they aren’t

people. As national wealth increases

helpful too). The effect that animal

across the globe, people are eating

agriculture has on the environment is

more refined and processed foods

steadily growing, and won’t change

instead of grains and legumes. The

unless people choose to take action.

imbalance of energy is stored as body

According to the EPA, greenhouse

fat and is one cause of the obesity

gases caused by large-scale agricul-

crisis that the United States and other

tural activities account for around 24

developed countries are currently

percent of total emissions across the

experiencing. The production of

globe. This is greater than the emis-

animal proteins, especially red meat,

sions of all transportation, which only

is continuing to rise. The reason this

accounts for 14 percent. The produc-

is such an issue is because livestock

tion of livestock alone accounts for 80

currently use almost a third of the

percent of all agricultural emissions.

Earth’s land surface. A third of this is

These numbers make it obvious why

just land that provides livestock feed.

the agricultural industry’s current

Various problems associated with

practices are a danger to the future of

animal agriculture include deforesta-

our planet. The use of resources and

tion for land feed production, excessive

exploitation of animals is not sustain-

use of energy in growing grains and

able because the total energy input

transporting, nitrous oxide releases

into food production far exceeds the

and gases from animal manure. These

food energy yield. In other words,

processes account for about 18 percent of global greenhouse-gas emissions.

Illustration provided by FCIT

even a little, we can take steps toward saving our environment and slowing the effects of climate change.

There are many delicious alternatives to meat that aren’t just eating vegetables. One of the most common options is tofu. Tofu is made from soybeans and is very high in protein.

It generally does not have much flavor but can be used in many dishes and absorbs spices and flavors easily.

Another option is tempeh, made from fermented soybeans. It is grainier than tofu and is a great substitute for fish.

Other options include using beans, seitan, and lentils, but if you aren’t really a cook, your local food store will have great options that can be made in a toaster oven or microwave in minutes. Some of my favorite brands are Morningstar, Gardein, and Trader Joe’s. All of these brands have many options from meatless meatballs to chicken fingers to Mandarin chicken.

You won’t even notice the difference!

Eating a bit less meat is an easy thing to do that will also help slow global warming and create a better planet for the future.

—ER I CA FL EMING

Self Care

for the END of the WORLD

GET YOUR BEAUTY SLEEP ON

SET MEDITATION REMINDERS ON YOUR PHONE

During sleep the body

DRINK LEMON WATER

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2017 is the year of getting mad and fixing things. It’s the year of waking up and taking responsibility for the current political and environmental climates.

As a result, it is also the year of looking inward and improving ourselves because it’s the only space over which we have complete control. Sadly, people tend to get caught up in the news stories, social media posts, and alternative facts whirling around them. Slowly but surely, all the clutter takes a toll on mental and physical health. Fortunately, there are some simple ways to keep composure when it feels like the world is ending.

EXERCISE IS KEY It is one of the most import-

Because lemon juice acts

ant parts of keeping your

In today’s busy, ever-

similarly to digestive juices

body up and running.

and rebuilds. It helps lower

demanding world, we

found in the stomach,

Exercise not only improves

stress and sharpen atten-

find ourselves constantly

this simple mixture works

physical appearance, but it

tion. Sleep also improves

running around, unable to

wonders for digestion and

also boosts mental health

memory skills, so, if you’re

slow down and take care

detoxification. I tried drink-

and a general sense of

studying for a test and feel

of ourselves. Our incessant

ing warm lemon water every

well-being. To keep on

overwhelmed, it’s better

busyness can make us run

morning for a month and

track, there should be a

to sleep on it than pull an

near empty. When we’re

the results were surprising.

reliable routine in place.

all-nighter. Although it

so caught up in giving to

It faded my (really) dark

Getting fit is not just about

sounds counterintuitive,

others, fulfilling obligations,

circles, cleared up my skin

running on a treadmill for

sleeping too much is a

and getting things done,

and supplied me with clean

hours at your local gym. It

ctually just as bad as sleep-

we forget to reflect on our

energy all day. On top of

can also be a new hobby

ing too little. For college

own mental and spiritual

that, adding just a shot of

like fencing or rock climb-

students, it’s best to sleep

well-being. We forget that

apple cider vinegar can ease

ing. If that sounds out of

seven to nine hours on a

much of our stress is self-in-

a sore throat, help weight

reach, there are countless

regular basis.

flicted. It is so important to

loss, prevent indigestion,

workout plans and videos

remind yourself to take a

boost energy, whiten teeth,

online catered to work hand

few deep breaths every once

and kill bacteria just to

in hand with busy lives and

in awhile to re-center the

name a few benefits. You

specific body types.

body and mind.

can literally sip your way to wellness!

—GI L L I AN MILBE RG READ MORE AT BLUSHMAGFIT.COM

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rejuvenates, replenishes,

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COVE R IM AGE : TOP Hannah Kristina Metz

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PANT S UIT XIXAW TOP From Trinity S HOE S Acne Studios

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MODEL

Logan at Elite

PHOTOGRAPHY

Alan-Michael Duval

FASHION

Christina Buscarino

HAIR & MAKEUP

Jazmin Thomas

JAC K E T From Trinity J U MP S U I T XIXAW

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TO P Sophia Ilmonen PA N T S From Trinity S H O E S Suzanne Rae

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JAC K E T Suzanne Rae C O R S E T XIXAW EAR R I N G S Vita Fede

S E T Hannah Kristina Metz JAC K E T Suzanne Rae S H O E S Coclico E A R R I N G S Vita Fede

J U MP S U I T Helena Eisenhart SH O E S Coclico

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S E T Hannah Kristina Metz S H O E S Escada

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