guilt-free bubbly Enjoying

Champagne and other forms of sparkling wine have traditional associations with luxury and success. A glass of ‘bubbly’ has long been a welcome drink favoured by many First and Business Class passengers. And changes to production processes and other measures mean it is becoming ever easier to sip sparkling wine without feeling guilty about the environmental impact.

Efforts to become more sustainable have resulted in increased emphasis being placed on working with local suppliers. That helps to cut transport miles, reducing emissions and can represent a commitment to support local businesses.

In line with such thinking, British Airways announced in March that, over the following year, for the first time, it would introduce four award-winning English sparkling wines to its Club World cabin. Rotating every three months, BA’s Business Class passengers will be able to sip Digby Fine

English Brut Non-Vintage (NV), Balfour Rosé de Noirs, Simpsons Chalklands Cuvee Brut NV and Winston Estate NV. “We know English sparkling wines have attracted international acclaim over the years and are only growing in popularity, so we’re really excited to offer our customers English sparkling wines in our Club World cabin,” comments Sajida Ismael, Director of Onboard Experience at British Airways.

Qualitatively and in terms of quantity produced, English winemaking has taken huge strides forward. A generation ago, few aficionados would have favoured English sparkling wines over those from traditional production regions.

Yet weather patterns associated with the Champagne region of northeast France four decades ago have become typical for southern England. Similarities in soil minerality and maturing vineyards are now helping English wines win plaudits.

Carbon neutrality

In 2016, Champagne Drappier became the first carbon-neutral wine estate in the Champagne region. “It came from the observation that, obviously, there were climate changes and because we are vineyard farmers we're are really in the forefront of seeing the evolution,” says Charlene Drappier, a co-owner, citing changes to the dates of harvests and frosts as two notable examples of climate change.

Around the turn of the century Michel Drappier, Charlene’s father, first had the idea of tackling his family business’s carbon footprint when such concerns were not fashionable. “In the early 2000s, people were talking about organic. That was something in the wine business. But it was only tackling the vineyards, not taking into account all of the many steps that can use a lot of resources such as energy and water,” says Charlene before outlining actions taken.

Drappier installed photovoltaic roof panels and acquired a fleet of electric tractors and goods vehicles. Michel Drappier designed a bottle 15% lighter than those that traditionally hold Champagne. The business is commitmed to recycling and permaculture.

Charlene acknowledges that being a family-run business plays a dominant role in long-term thinking regarding how it is run. Vineyards start to become productive only around 10 years after they are planted. “Everything we do, it’s worth it only for the next generation,” she observes.

Biodiverse production

Nonetheless, her family has planted rarely used varietals in an effort to maintain biodiversity. And amid all the sustainable measures that the company has introduced, Charlene sees the greatest achievement as successfully converting more than 30 hectares to become organically certified and not going back on that despite adverse weather in 2021 resulting in a disastrous harvest: “We can be very proud of having stuck to this commitment and still extending the organic certification on our vineyards.”

In 2022, Piper-Heidsieck, Charles Heidsieck and Rare Champagne – members of the familyowned EPI Group – became the first Champagne houses to achieve B Corp certification. Beyond adherence to sustainable practices and ongoing efforts to cut carbon emissions, that involves a commitment to gender equality and advocacy of social inclusion.

Climate change is also affecting vineyards in Italy. To counteract its impact, Bottega has adopted measures such as growing of grass in the middle of vineyards plus new foliage and pruning management systems. The company’s prosecco is available aboard 65 airlines and 160 cruise ships.

In addition to utilising renewable energy, water is recycled and organic manure is spread on Bottega’s vineyards. The polythene that packs empty bottles during their delivery is recycled and converted to the film that stretches around filled and ready-to-ship packaging.

“We also positioned six hives with 300,000 bees in the vineyards in the Prosecco Hills. These insects play a very important role in maintaining biodiversity and their presence is also a thermometer to measure the healthiness of an area,” says Sandro Bottega, Managing Director of Bottega SpA.

Nova Scotian sparkling

The winegrowing heritage of Nova Scotia, Canada, can be traced back to 1611. Yet it was only in 1982 that the Grape Growers Association of Nova Scotia was established. It represents one of the world’s coldest grape-growing areas and is regarded as an emerging wine region.

“In Nova Scotia we are starting to experience more variable and sometimes extreme weather such as drought, hurricanes and warmer summers and winters. In the last three warmer growing seasons pick dates for sparkling wine have been getting earlier to maintain our signature freshness,” says Bruce Ewert, L’Acadie Vineyards' owner.

“The long-term benefit of organic vegan agriculture is a strengthening of our vineyard’s climate change resilience. For example, cover crops to protect the soil and healthy vines in an ecosystem of diversity make us stronger,” adds the winemaker.

in 2021 the organic winery vine’s roots. And you avoid pesticide residues

Welcoming passengers to Canada’s Maritime provinces, L’Acadie Vineyards’ Vintage Cuvée is served on the Via Rail train between Montreal and Halifax. The traditionally made sparkling wine was the region’s first. And in 2021 the organic winery became North America's first to be certified by Biocyclic Vegan International.

“Organic and vegan agriculture is better for the world – it is better for people, animals and the planet. Organically grown grapes tend to be more flavourful for a number of reasons, not the least of which are the soil micro-organisms around the vine’s roots. And you avoid pesticide residues in your wine,” he adds about his production choices qualitative benefits.

“Motivation should come from the heart, since it is more work and riskier. It should Canadian

“Motivation should come from the heart, since it is more work and riskier. It should come from the rationale that it is the right thing to do,” concludes the Canadian winemaker of organic production.

Fans of sparkling wine and responsible agriculture may well be tempted to raise a glass and toast his success. •

Fans of sparkling wine and be