BMW Owners News for May 2023

“The Touratech Shock and Extreme Fork Cartridge soaked up the bumps and kept my F850GS controlled and planted on the Oregon BDR.”

Touratech Suspension is valved for adventure riding and has been battle-tested on all 12 BDR routes. It’s earned high marks for performance and reliability over the last decade.

Iain Glynn GS Trophy Team ORBDR Expedition

RIDING NORTH TO THE 50TH NATIONAL RALLY

BY MATT WANK #217542

FEAR ON ROUTE 389

BY DUSTIN SILVEY #224778

THE JOURNEY BEGINS

BY KATHERINE BECKSVOORT #222648

IN THIS ISSUE

4 | HEADLIGHT A Rally to Remember by Bill Wiegand

8 | PRESIDENT'S COLUMN Plan your Route to the 50th by Reece Mullins

10 | POSTCARDS FROM THE ROAD

12 | RIDER TO RIDER Letters from our Members

16 | NEWS The R 18 B Heavy Duty, Saved by BMW MOA Platinum Roadside Assistance, Celebrate 100 Years of BMW Motorrad Innovation at The Ultimate Driving Museum, MOA 50th National Rally News

30 | GEAR Rubber Side Down by Mark Barnes

32 | GEAR Klim’s Maverick Jacket by Mark Barnes

34 | GEAR Shoei’s Hornet X2 helmet, Part One by Randy Crank

36 | KEEP 'EM FLYING Another Riding Season Begins by Matt Parkhouse

38 | TORQUE OF THE MATTER Motorcycle Revival at Duke University by Wes Fleming

60 | SHINY SIDE UP Only on a Bike by Ron Davis

62 | ROAD TALES Your Ruined Tush by David Cwi

64 | THE RIDE INSIDE Foolishness Squared by Mark Barnes

68 | GEAR Sport Touring Tires

70 | Welcome our Newest MOA Members 74 | WHEN AND WHERE Rally listings 79

ON THE COVER The iconic Butler and Smith R 90 S Reg Pridmore rode to victory in the 1976 AMA Superbike series is one of more than 50 BMW-powered machines gathered to celebrate BMW Motorrad’s 100th Anniversary at The Ultimate Driving Museum in Greer, South Carolina. See page 17 for exhibition details.

A RALLY TO REMEMBER

BMW MOA National Rallies have come a long way since our first, which took place south of San Jose, California, in Morgan Hill in 1973. While the locations and attractions at each have changed over the years, what has not changed has been the desire of MOA members to get together each summer with their BMW-riding friends and share in the tire-kicking camaraderie we all love.

Each year, our National Rallies have grown in size and intricacy as planners strove to build on previous rallies and add new elements, making each event unique and memorable. While seeing flame-throwing cars at the 2011 Bloomsburg Rally might have sounded like a fun and exciting twist, one could not accurately predict the spectacle’s effects on a crowd as the weather conditions pushed July temperatures past 100 degrees with humidity to match. Regardless, anyone who was there will never forget what they saw and felt that day.

While Paula and Wes Fitzer, our 2023 National Rally Chairs, faced the same challenges every other Rally chair has had when they agreed to organize the event, they also had the special demands of marking the MOA’s 50th Rally and the 100-year anniversary of the BMW brand. Though the event is still weeks away, I believe what the pair has put together will raise the rally bar to a level not seen before by MOA members.

As in the past, rally-goers will have the opportunity to ride great roads surrounding the rally site, take in fun and informative seminars, buy things they didn’t know they needed from the many vendors, and win fantastic daily door prizes and grand prizes, which this year includes a 2023 BMW 100th Anniversary R nineT. There will also be training opportunities, a bike show, a vintage motorcycle display and nightly entertainment for everyone to enjoy. Paula and Wes could have stopped there, and we still would have enjoyed a great time in Virginia, but they didn’t!

New twists this year are many and begin with Day Passes being available any day of the Rally. What if a rider passing through the area can only stop for just one day? No problem!

While not new to MOA Rallies but certainly missed from the last couple, the BMW Demo Truck will be present to display and demonstrate the latest and greatest bikes the marque offers.

The very popular Brewfest, offering the opportunity to sample some of the area’s favorite craft beers, also returns this year. On a similar note, rally-goers will have the chance to tour the nearby A. Smith Bowman Distillery–a small maker of award-winning bourbon in Fredericksburg.

If you’ve ever camped on the rally grounds at an MOA National Rally and struggled with options for breakfast each day, worry no more. This year, a hearty breakfast will be available each morning. If you stay off-site, the MOA has a block of rooms available at the Virginia Crossings Hotel and Conference Center for a special price. The Conference Center is also the site of additional rally events, including “Breakfast with BMW,” a seminar discussing significant motorcycles built during the company’s 100-year history and hosted by Lutz-Michael Hahn of BMW Group Classic. Another event there will be a presentation, this time with dinner, by adventurer and author Sam Manicom.

Paula and Wes have also tweaked the traditional Closing Ceremonies program this year. Instead of preceding Saturday night’s entertainment, Paula and Wes have decided to make every night a “Grand Celebration” with grand prizes awarded and individuals recognized each night just before the music begins.

While I’ve only highlighted some of the things Rally attendees can expect to see this year, there is much more, and it is detailed beginning on page 18 of this issue or online at rally. bmwmoa.org.

With all the tweaks and twists Paula and Wes have added to our 50th National Rally, I’m confident the event will be remembered forever as one of our best. The icing on the celebratory cake of our golden anniversary rally, though, is the common thread this Rally shares with all preceding it–the opportunity to celebrate our friendships and the love of motorcycling we all share as BMW motorcycle enthusiasts.

I look forward to seeing you in Doswell, Virginia, next month.

Scenic Overlook

Along Cloudland Road outside Pomfret, Vermont, a little north of Woodstock.

Photo by David Gamari #88128.

PLAN YOUR ROUTE TO THE 50TH NOW!

As the month of May embraces our club with warmer weather and dry roads, I hope many of you are planning epic routes to next month’s 50th MOA Rally outside Richmond, Virginia, June 8-10. Whether you are planning your route with software or using old school paper maps, savor the process as it’s part of the adventure. Hopefully, you can collaborate with a fellow member sharing your passion and enthusiasm for the process. Regardless of the route you take to get there, Rhonda and I look forward to seeing you all again.

This year’s rally will be one for the history books. If you haven’t put in your vacation time-off request yet, get to it and commit, as time is running short and you do not want to miss this one.

In attendance this year will be a few of the new members I had the distinct pleasure of recruiting through our MOA Member Forces program last year, specifically, the staff and team at Extreme Motorcycles-BMW Motorrad of Columbus, Georgia. I recently attended the dealership’s open house event, and despite it being cold and windy outside with an occasional rain cloud, the event was still well attended. BMW North America was also in attendance with their demo truck and support staff, and witnessing the degree of collaboration and cooperation between the MOA, the BMW Motorcycle Club of Georgia, BMW NA and the dealership was a beautiful thing to behold.

Mounting my beloved R 1250 RT named Anja, I donned the heated base layer, turned on the electric grips and seat and made my way north in 43-degree temperatures. Columbus is a mere 140 miles from my home in Samson and the home of the 75th Ranger Regiment on Fort Benning where I grew up as a young infantryman. I have many fond memories of that area, as well as many not so fond memories. Ranger school was a 58-day gut check, no getting around that level of pain, but it taught me that one who perseveres will prevail, and the reward (in this case a Ranger Tab) was that much sweeter when bestowed.

I find myself often harkening back to that lesson as I continue to explore my passion as a motorcycle enthusiast and club member. As I mentioned at the beginning of my column, the rewards for the efforts made in the planning/preparation phase and the challenges experienced enroute to the rally very often make the rally experience that much more gratifying and memorable. I encourage all of you to embrace your tribulations as a club member, and as you encounter them, take a moment to pause and soak them all in, knowing your force of will and passion will conquer the obstacle before you.

Sarah Heread, one of the members I recruited when I met her last year, is the Finance and Insurance Representative for the Columbus dealership. She worked with me when I purchased the extended BMW warranty on my new RT, a BMW program that was so new we enlisted the help of BMW veteran sales representative and MOA Ambassador Jennifer Ott to walk us through the process. Sarah did not ride a motorcycle when I recruited her but has since bought a bike and rides regularly. The rally will not only be her first, but also her first long trip on a bike. I am so proud of her. She has a great support network at the dealership, including MOA members William Flake, Paul McGowan, Ismael Gomez and so many more.

I am very encouraged to see the level of cooperation and mutual support I encountered in Columbus, Georgia, this spring. The momentum is there and growing; our club is at the precipice of something great.

Reece Mullins #143779 President

Top, A photograph while riding around the mountains northeast of Phoenix, Arizona, surrounded by beautiful weather and fantastic roads. Photo by Terry South #135579.

Left, Taking a break while riding the St. Joe River Scenic Byway amid some of Idaho's most picturesque mountain landscapes.

Photo by Matt Munn #231969.

Above, Filling up my 2020 R 1250 GS Adventure at a home-based gas station in Batopilas, Chihuahua, Mexico. Photo by Michael Williamson #127856.

Each month we publish the great images sent to us by BMW MOA members from their travels around the globe. Send us your best images and you could have your work published in our Postcards from the Road pages. Email your high resolution images, image description and contact information to editor@bmwmoa.org.

Top Left, My 1984 R 100 RS (aka Minnie Pearl) at the foot of the Natchez Trace Bridge outside Franklin, Tennessee. Photo by Chuck Pryor #199323.

Top Right, Sunrise on the beach at Bahia Asuncion, Baja California Sur, Mexico.

Photo by Graham Kier #225550.

Above Left, A photo taken at Priest Station Cafe at the top of Priest Grade Road (California) on a glorious spring day while on a club ride with River City Beemers. Photo by Jean Cordalis #210519.

Above Right, Hoping spring is just around the next corner while riding my G 310 GS along New Boston Road in Greenfield, New Hampshire. Photo by David Marrier #209759.

RIDERTORIDER

Thumbs Up!

I don’t generally save my old issues of Owners News so I can’t go back to compare, but the font in the March 2023 issue looks to be much more readable to my 63-year-old eyes. I have many magazines now that are very hard to read, particularly in low light. BMW Owners News is now the stand-out exception. So often magazines make format changes simply for the sake of change and without regard to functionality. I am happy that BMW Owners News is bucking that trend; I wish all magazines would follow your lead.

Now if you could just get BMW to reconsider their anti-owner repair policy on service manuals/CDs so I could buy another BMW when my ‘07 LT finally expires.

Matthew Whiting #134106 Lawrenceville, Pennsylvania

Love the New Design

Just wanted to say that I love the new design of the magazine. Well done.

Scott Wohrman #185213 Coral Springs, Florida

When and Where

I am OK with most changes with BMW Owners News with one exception–that being the “When and Where” section changes.

I really miss the map and the arrangement by date vs. the regional approach. I assume I live in the central region, and while Madison, Wisconsin, is close, Kerrville, Texas, is not. For planning purposes, the date and geographic location are the priority, not a region.

Please as a Life Member and having started to attend rallies in 1972 and just getting to the freedom of retirement,

please revert back to the old format.

Thank you for the kindness of your consideration.

William Ahlborn #54571 Glendale, Wisconsin

Love the Changes

Love the changes to BMW Owners News especially the saddle stitching as it lays open nicely on a flat surface. Why didn’t I know before that stacking past issues made a picture? Like the layout and print font changes as well, but the new BMW Owners News logo looks a little utilitarian to me. I like the old one better but it won’t cause me to “cancel” my membership or sell my Biarritz Blue 2004 RT!

Keep up the great work!

Now, with the saddle stitching, bring back the annual calendar!

Richard Stone #135355 Carmel, Indiana

The "Changes"

Bill Wiegand’s comments regarding the MOA’s magazine “changes” couldn’t be more off.

I purchased my BMW (my first) and was astounded with the feel of the bike. It is obvious that BMW produces the highest quality and the best engineered motorcycle. One of the perks I received with the purchase was a one-year membership in the MOA.

The first issue of the magazine arrived, and again I was impressed with the feel and the quality of binding, the pictures were astounding, and the articles are interesting. To me it spoke of what it represented, quality BMW motorcycling and the people around it. Recently we received our magazine, and I was disappointed that it wasn’t in the poly bag. What? We don’t care if it gets

scuffed-up anymore in transit? Not only is it thinner, but I found no “binding” on this magazine where I used to look forward to every month as the bindings picture unfolded. I also noticed there was this oversized sticker with my info on it, covering part of the superb picture on the front. “This is not an improvement,” I told myself. Was the MOA in tough financial straits? Why would they “cheap-out” on this?

I found Bill’s article and was in complete disagreement with his assessment of their changes. “Difficult, but positive change;” I can only agree with the difficult part. After all, how much could this binding and poly-bag cost anyway? I’m more than happy to pay more for my membership to cover these costs.

These changes have made our BMW Owners News magazine just like any other magazine. Gone are the small things that set it apart on first glance.

Sorry Bill, I disagree with your assessment, but I do understand you championing your group’s decisions. By the way, you didn’t say how you “would use the savings in ways more beneficial to our organization.” How could that be?

Bill Cummins #207262 Ravensdale, Washington

Explanation Needed

I read with interest the Rider to Rider letter “My Last BMW.” Like many (likely most) BMW riders, I am also not happy about the lack of access to service manuals. I understand this is not “the MOA’s issue,” but it is an issue of immense interest to your membership. I also understand the relationship between the MOA and BMW is complicated. I have noticed the MOA logo changed, and I assume this was secondary from BMW’s pressure regarding its trademark. I always found it odd that they strongly enforced

this against those who are their most vocal supporters. But I am just a rider, not a trademark attorney.

I would like to see the MOA present an in-depth article on the topic of BMW’s decision to cut off access to service manuals. Talk to BMW corporate. Talk to regular riders. Talk to BMW dealers. Talk to independent motorcycle shops, American and European. You could fill an entire issue. And certainly, poll your members (paper, Survey Monkey) on our thoughts, and present your findings. From talking to my regional club members, they are 100 percent against BMW’s actions.

I don’t know how much concern you have about backlash from BMW corporate if you moved forward on this, but is silence really the best response?

Bob Swee #184227 Lake Bluff, Illinois

What's in Your Cup?

I don’t know about others or whether I’m in the majority or minority on this one.

Recently I read a couple of contributions from members suggesting the MOA forego the long-standing tradition of providing rally mugs at the National rally. Seems like a minor point on the surface, regardless of where you lean on the issue. However, I wanted to share a little something that may or may not resonate with others.

For the past 30+ years, a large part of my life has revolved around motorcycles, touring, the MOA and rallies. If you consider I grew up on the back of the same 1975 R 75/6 that I currently still ride regularly, it’s much longer than that. My first MOA National was Oshkosh in 1993. I doubt I’m alone in enjoying fond memories of these events, travels and vacations whenever something draws my mind’s eye to them.

One way my wife and I recapture a bit of these experiences is by collecting Christmas ornaments from places we visit along the road. Every time we place them on the tree each year, we are reminded of the fantastic sights we’ve seen together over the years.

Another way is by gazing upward, every day, at the many MOA National Rally mugs (and other rally mugs) that adorn the top of our kitchen cupboards. They hold a place of honor there, right next to photos of family, long after the beverages have stopped flowing at Das Biergarten. For us, those cups “runneth over” with memories of friends and conversations from days gone by. At the same time, they inspire thoughts of

WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU!

adventures yet to come. How is that possible? It’s just a cup, you say? Maybe there’s some MOA magic within if you close your eyes and let your mind wander.

I do have a suggestion though, for the “anti-cuppers” among us (tongue FIRMLY in cheek). Why not offer a check box on the registration form if you don’t want to receive a rally mug? In particular, for those who pre-register, it would allow the MOA to adjust the number of mugs purchased, while still accommodating those of us that enjoy receiving them–just a thought. This is already practiced for the mileage contest, allowing participants to opt out of the finisher’s pin. (Spoiler alert: I still get mine every year to put on my cork board collection.)

As for me, I’d rather not make everything about social/political ideologies. We all have our own opinions and reasons, but we’re all part of this MOA family. I prefer to leave that stuff in my mirrors and ride! What’s in your cup?

Jerry Riha #62373 Thompson, Ohio

Each month, the Rider to Rider pages of BMW Owners News detail the successes, failures, wishes and frustrations we all face as riders, BMW motorcycle owners, customers and individuals. As a BMW MOA member, these are your pages and we want to know what’s on your mind.

Got something to get off your chest? Tell us about it. Know a business that deserves to be recognized? Tell us about it. Got a riding or tech tip that we could all benefit from? Tell us about it. Got a suggestion for BMW Motorrad? You know the drill–Tell us about it! There’s only one rule and that’s to stick to the subject that brings us all here–motorcycling, so save political rants for Facebook! Send your thoughts to editor@bmwmoa.org and lets all work to build a better community.

The R 18 B Heavy Duty: A Stunning Build by Customizing Icon Fred Kodlin

By BMW Motorrad

Anyone who talks about the U.S. customizing scene always mentions Fred Kodlin almost in the same breath. For more than 40 years, Kodlin has dedicated himself to customizing motorcycles, from radically modified creations to sophisticated new designs. Since the 1990s, he has been incredibly successful with his custom bikes, winning several important Daytona bike shows and being named as the very first non-U.S. citizen to be inducted into the Sturgis Hall of Fame. For the first time, Fred Kodlin has customized a BMW with his son Len namely the BMW R 18 B. "The R 18 B HEAVY DUTY was a real father-son project. There was a lot of creative input from Len which also goes to show that the next generation at Kodlin Bikes is already in the starting blocks," said the boss of Kodlin Bikes in Borken. The biggest challenge in customizing this year's crowd puller at Daytona Bike Week was undoubtedly the frame. "We have completely remanufactured the upper tubes to lower the fly-line and thus the seat height of the R 18 B. We also redid the steering

head and the triple clamps so that the caster fits despite the changed steering angle and so that the bike rides well," explained Fred Kodlin.

The result was the R 18 B HEAVY DUTY, a bike in typical Kodlin style. Viewed from the side, the fly-line drops sharply to the rear from the chopped windshield taken from the original BMW Motorrad Accessories run and leads harmoniously into the side cases made by Kodlin out of glass fiber-reinforced plastic and the low rear end. From the top, the R 18 B HEAVY DUTY is characterized by a strong waistline in the seat area and a flowing connection to the side cases. Finally, the technical chassis highlight is an air suspension system at the front and rear, supported by a compressor barely visibly behind the left side case. This allows the R 18 B HEAVY DUTY to be lowered and raised in a fraction of a second which is both as useful as it is spectacular. To park, lower the chassis, and it rests on hidden support points letting the bike crouch just a few inches above the asphalt, waiting for the next ride.

Saved by BMW MOA Platinum Roadside Assistance

By Joe Dawson #213749

That oh-oh! feeling. Suddenly your motorcycle begins to sway while riding two-up. You’re immediately tasked with crossing six freeway lanes in an effort to safely land on the right shoulder and confirm your suspicion that you have a flat tire. Having no desire to sit alongside a busy roadway, the decision is made to limp down the side of the road to the next exit and seek refuge at a service station.

Fortunately, in this case I had made the decision again to spend the extra 50 bucks and add the Platinum Roadside Assistance option to my MOA Membership this year which includes 100 miles of free towing and two free tire replacements per year (with labor.)

After making a call, help arrived promptly, and the claim process went as smoothly as my emergency landing on the 101 that day.

The definition of a cynic? In the words of an old mentor of mine, a cynic is “One who knows the price of everything and the value of nothing.”

Pretty darn good deal for an extra 50 bucks, if you ask me.

Celebrate 100 Years of BMW Motorrad Innovation at The Ultimate Driving Museum

To celebrate the 100th anniversary of BMW Motorrad, the BMW Car Club of America has announced BMW Motorcycles: A Century of Innovation as the newest exhibit released from The Ultimate Driving Museum located in Greer, South Carolina.

BMW Motorcycles: A Century of Innovation features 53 motorcycles and motorcycle-engined cars, each with a story to tell about BMW’s 100-year history as a motorcycle manufacturer. Many of the bikes on display have been lent to the museum by notable BMW MOA members such as Peter Nettesheim, Jack Wells, Todd Trumbore and Bob Henig and include a fine selection of prewar singles and boxer twins and postwar street and racing machines from a 1927 R 47 to a 2023 R nineT 100th Anniversary model.

Other notable bikes include the world championship-winning Fath Kneeler, Reg Pridmore’s AMA Superbike championshipwinning R 90 S, Helge Pederson’s world-traveling R 80 G/S and other assorted rarities from the 100-year span of BMW Motorcycle history.

The Ultimate Driving Museum is located at 190 Manatee Court in Greer, South Carolina, and the exhibit opens to the public on Saturday, May 20 and runs through January 20, 2024.

“We can’t wait to share these bikes and cars with you and to tell their stories,” said Michael Mitchell, Curator of Collections for The Ultimate Driving Museum. For more information, visit bmwccafoundation.org.

Some of the many BMW motorcycles on display at The Ultimate Driving Museum include the HP4 Race, R 1100 RS Battle of the Legends (signed by Reg Pridmore) and a beautifully restored R 57.

Day Passes Available for the 50th National Rally

Want to join The National Rally for just a day or two? How about inviting a local friend to spend the day at the 50th? Now you can with day passes for any day of the rally!

Previously, day passes were only available for Saturday guests. Of course, this is the 50th and we want everyone to have a chance to come out and enjoy a day or two with all of our rally friends. Day passes will be available for Thursday, Friday and Saturday, and guests will receive full access to the spectator areas, including exhibitor displays, seminars, the ADV track, nightly entertainment, food and refreshments. No overnight camping or door prize tickets will be included with day passes, but almost everything else is fair game!

Day passes will cost $35 for any day of the Rally and can be purchased in advance at rally.bmwmoa.org or on-site in the Rally registration tent at the main entrance.

Every Night is a Grand Celebration

If you have been to a National Rally in the past, you know Saturday night is typically the night for closing ceremonies, the time when we make all our special announcements, give away some cool prizes and say “Farewell, until next year.” Nothing about our 50th anniversary celebration should be considered “typical” and closing ceremonies will be no exception!

This year, every night offers an opportunity for a grand celebration, and we’ll be giving away prizes every night from the entertainment stage, including motorcycles. Join us each evening–Thursday, Friday and Saturday–as we celebrate some special members, make a few people really happy with a new motorcycle and enjoy the camaraderie of fellow members.

Register now for BREWFEST 2023 at rally.bmwmoa.org!

Rumor is the music will be hot and we won’t hold up the show for long! Festivities kick off each night around 6 p.m., but check the Rally Program or Rally App for up to the minute show times.

Grand Prize Bike

The 100th Anniversary R NineT

Stay with the MOA at Virginia Crossings Hotel & Conference Center

Looking for accommodations near The National? Look no further than the Virginia Crossings Hotel & Conference Center, conveniently located at the corner of I-95 and I-295 in northeast Richmond. The Hilton property is part of the Tapestry Collection and features 165 rooms blocked specifically for BMW MOA members.

The historic hotel is nestled in the suburban neighborhoods just outside Richmond and offers easy access to shopping, restaurants and a beautiful ride north on highway 1 or 301 to the rally grounds. The full-service facility has an onsite restaurant, bar, pool, fitness center and plenty of parking.

MOA members can book rooms for only $129/ night by calling the hotel at (804) 727-1400 and asking for the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America rate. Or book online with the discounted link available at rally.bmwmoa.org.

Don't Forget the Laughte r : An Evening with Sam Manicom

Motorcycle adventurer and author Sam Manicom has been travelling his entire life. He has authored several adventure travel books including, The Moment Collectors, Into Africa, Under Asian Skies and Distant Suns, all of which detail moments from his life on two wheels. Sam has contributed to several motorcycle magazines over his prolific career, including BMW Owners News.

BMW MOA members and guests at the 50th can join Sam for a very special evening at the Virginia Crossings Hotel and Conference Center. The evening will include a happy hour to mix and mingle with members, dinner and a visual presentation by Sam of some of his most memorable works entitled “Don’t Forget the Laughter.”

Tickets for the limited-seating event are available at rally.bmwmoa.org for $59 per person, or make it an evening for two for only $99. The ticket price includes dinner, seating for Sam’s entertaining presentation, some MOA extras and an opportunity to chat with the author himself.

A first for the National Rally, “An Evening with Sam Manicom” is sure to be a hit and sell out quickly.

Breakfast with BMW at Virginia Crossings

Not only is this the 50th anniversary of BMW MOA, but 2023 also marks the 100th anniversary of BMW motorcycles. For this special occasion, we’re honored to have as a seminar presenter at this year’s BMW MOA National Rally BMW Group Classic Representative Lutz-Michael Hahn.

MOA members have a unique opportunity to share breakfast with Hahn on Thursday or Friday as he shares the five significant motorcycles that changed everything in BMW’s 100-year history. His presentation will take a behind-the-scenes look at each motorcycle with some interesting backstory and untold information about each and its relevance to BMW.

Tickets for the limited-seating event are available at rally.bmwmoa.org for $39 per person or buy two for $69. Breakfast will be a full buffet, and Lutz will make a full visual presentation after breakfast with the opportunity for members to meet him and ask questions about BMW’s history.

Enjoy a Tour of the A. Smith Bowman Distillery

You might think Tennessee and Kentucky have cornered the market on America’s bourbon business, but don’t overlook award winning A. Smith Bowman Distillery from Fredericksburg, Virginia. The family-owned distillery continues to balance the long-lived traditions that honor one of Virginia’s great pioneers. Most recently in 2016 and 2017, A. Smith Bowman Distillery won the “World’s Best Bourbon” at the World Whiskies Awards–solidifying them as Virginia’s winningest distillery.

As a guest at the 50th, you can visit the A. Smith Bowman facility on Thursday or Friday nights for a private event just for MOA members and their guests. Motorcoaches will depart the Meadow Event Park at approximately 5 p.m. and arrive at the distillery shortly before 6 p.m. Once there, you will be treated to a tour of the distillery and a bourbon tasting, along with dinner and entertainment before a short return trip to the Meadow Event Park.

Tickets for the private event including round trip transportation between the Meadow Event Park and the distillery are $59 per person. Space is limited to only 100 participants each night and is expected to sell out.

Purchase tickets in advance at rally.bmwmoa.org.

BMW Demo Truck at the Rally!

Taste of the Trophy Adventure Course and Competition

In preparation for the 2024 International GS Trophy competition, BMW Motorrad and its official training partners have created an exciting track of obstacles that emulate riding the backcountry or attempting to qualify for the GS Trophy. Whether you are a serious GS Trophy contender or just want to work on your off-road skills, the Thrill Pit Adventure Course is the place to be!

The BMW Performance Center will also be at the 50th with a skills course including three riding clinics to help you master the throttle, clutch, braking and body position skills you need to succeed! Ben Dragoo from D.A.R.T. will be on hand to help you through each obstacle, step-by-step. On Saturday afternoon, Shawn Thomas and Aaron Rankin will host the “Taste of the Trophy,” a final competition to see how you do with your new skills. All skill levels encouraged!

Check the Rally App for a schedule of open ride times, skill-building sessions, and a special “See How the Pros Do It” riding event.

Overland Area available

New this year at the National BMW MOA Rally will be an Overland Area for those who want to reserve a site sized 25’ x 50’, for their overland vehicle or reserved tent camping with all their buddies. Only 40 sites are available.

Registration is open at bmwmoaf. regfox.com/2023moa-national-rallyoverland-area.

Missing from recent MOA National Rallies, it has been confirmed that the BMW Demo Truck will indeed be at our 50th National Rally in Doswell, Virginia.

Breakfast to be Served at the 50th!

Are you camping at the National and wondering where you might be able to find a hearty breakfast? Well, wonder no more. For our 50th National Rally, breakfast will be available each day in the Meadow Pavilion. Pancakes and bacon or sausage will be served on Thursday, bacon, egg and cheese sandwiches on Friday and a breakfast buffet with eggs, tots, and meat on Saturday. All meals come with juice and coffee from the coffee team and a vegetarian option will be available each day. All for just $8 per meal.

Advance ticket purchase is required, and tickets are available online at rally. bmwmoa.org. You can buy as many meals and days as you like. Buy some extra tickets to share with your neighbors. For only $8, it’s the easy way to make friends at the National!

And, just in case you missed it, advanced ticket purchase is required! Visit rally.bmwmoa.org for complete information and to get your breakfast tickets.

Suburban Machinery

Footpeg lowering kits for rider & passenger, bar backs and bar end weights for select BMW models.

Entertainment lineup for the 50th

By Rally Entertainment Chair Lee Harrelson #145612

Wow!

Time flies when a group of people gather to have so much fun! Now I wasn’t there in the beginning 50 years ago for the first rally in Morgan Hill, California, but I am pretty sure it wasn’t quite like the National rallies we enjoy today.

Whether this rally will be your first or your 50th, make your plans to be in Doswell, Virginia, this June 8-10. The nearby city of Richmond is wonderful, the roads are fantastic and once you are inside the rally gates, you’ll find all of the wonders and goodies a kid in a candy store could ask for. Seminars covering a wealth of motorcycle related topics welcome you, displays of some of the most beautiful BMW motorcycles ever made will seduce you, vendors will entice you, food of all kinds will make your stomach growl, and more than 5,000 of your fellow MOA members from all over the world will be there to party with you. And, of course, the nightly live entertainment will get your feet moving. So, get your travel plans in order, call your buddies and make plans to meet up in Doswell, Virginia, for the time of your life!

I’d like to say thank you to Wes and Paula Fitzer, our 2023 Rally Chairs, not only for the months of hard work they’ve done to prepare for our 50th, but also for inviting me to again serve as Entertainment Chair. And now, to our Rally entertainment.

You know Wes. Right? I’m talking about Wes Fleming, the guy dispensing mechanical wisdom on all things BMW motorcycle in BMW Owners News and online, along with the podcasts he does. Well, Wes has been hiding a little secret from most of us. As it turns out, Wes is a rocker and the lead guitar player in a Richmond-based rock group called 7th. Grade Girl Fight. Wes and his band are going to set Wednesday night on fire for our dedicated volunteers arriving early to help set up for the rally. Wes and 7th. Grade Girl Fight take the stage at 7 p.m.

Thursday is always a busy day at the rally. As opening day, Thursday is the day when most rally-goers arrive onsite, get registered, find a camping spot and track down their old friends and begin making new ones. Vendors will open on Thursday, and seminars will kick off that morning, so make your plans accordingly. Just make sure you are back at rally central for the music that night.

Peach Street Revival, a four-piece band from Grand Junction, Colorado, plays classic rock, blues and punk. The band provides both a rockin’ performance of their original songs and covers some of classic rock’s greats, including Led Zeppelin, Jimi Hendrix, The Rolling Stones, Jefferson Airplane, Janis Joplin, Creedence Clearwater Revival, Heart, Fleetwood Mac, Rush, Queen and more! Peach Street Revival takes the stage at 7 p.m. on Thursday.

Then, at 9 p.m. Thursday evening, a longtime staple in Richmond’s local music scene years, The Bart Chucker Band,

takes the stage. This five-piece, Americana music-styled group plays many favorites, from Tyler Childers to Stones, and from Johnny Cash to Prince.

Friday night’s show starts at 7 p.m. with Shoot To Thrill, a five-piece all-female AC/DC tribute band that has been touring the country and tearing up stages with their hard driving rock and roll. AC/DC never looked or sounded any better that this!

Our Rally headliner, Yates McKendree, takes the stage Friday night at 9 p.m. Although he’s only 21-years-old, Yates McKendree’s experience as a professional musician goes back more than a decade. His early experience includes playing regularly in some of Nashville’s most notable venues including The Bluebird Cafe, The Ryman Auditorium, as well as 3rd & Lindsley. McKendree has North American and European tours under his belt and has made multiple appearances on national television.

In the studio, McKendree has played on and engineered many recording projects, most notably for Delbert McClinton and John Hiatt, who told Rolling Stone Magazine, “Yates was our secret ingredient.”

McKendree’s just-released debut album Buchanan Lane features both classic cover tunes and his own work. Co-written with Gary Nicholson, the album highlights McKendree’s skills, remarkable style and taste as a multi-instrumentalist and vocalist, with an emphasis on guitar.

McKendree’s father, Kevin, was the keyboard player in Delbert McClinton’s band way back at the Johnson City, Tennessee, National Rally in 2009. Yates has been soaking up the vibes and learning his chops from his father, and I knew it would not be long before this kid grew up to play the blues.

Saturday’s rally entertainment is going to be different this year! It seems Richmond is a hot bed of comedians, so we’ve rounded up four of the best to perform for us for about an hour or so to warm up rally-goers before Saturday night’s music kicks off. Beginning around 7 p.m., comedienne Sarah Ahmed will lead a group of four hilarious folks and keep the laughter rolling until about 8 p.m. when Bonnie Bishop takes the stage.

I first met Bishop at a party to celebrate Capricorn Records reopening in Macon, Georgia, a couple of years ago. Bishop is a Texas songwriter who has worked in Nashville, toured Europe and was getting noticed by some big-name producers like Dave Cobb, who produced her “Ain’t Who I Was” album in 2016. A divorce in Nashville and a return to Texas fueled her soulful record “House Sessions” in 2019, and she has been touring and writing ever since, releasing nine albums since 2002.

For more information and to sample some of the music you will hear at the 50th, please visit rally.bmwmoa.org/ entertainment/.

2023 Karol Patzer MOA Children’s Charity Club Challenge

Charity Chairperson Susanna Parkhouse #56786

The Port Washington (Wisconsin) BMW club, #116, once again challenges all BMW MOA clubs and individuals to meet or beat the club’s initial donation of $100 to this year’s “Karol Patzer MOA Children’s Charity.” The Children’s Charity was started by and is named in memory of long-time MOA member Karol Patzer, who, before her passing in 2018, created the charity and oversaw it very successfully for 25 years. While $100 (or more) per club, or individual, is wonderful, even a dollar per rally attendee would help to make a difference for the children involved.

The Children’s Charity this year is Caroline’s Promise, (carolinespromise.org) a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. The Meadow Event Park is located in Caroline County, Virginia, and all money raised will benefit the children living there. Five promises made to the children involved with Caroline’s Promise include providing ongoing relationships with caring adults, offering safe places with structured activities during non-school hours, a healthy start and future, marketable skills through effective education, and opportunities to give back through community service.

During the rally, be on the lookout for the roving 50/50 ticket salespeople wearing their bright red aprons. There will be two individual 50/50 drawings on Thursday and Friday and one on Saturday offering an opportunity to win some “beer money” while helping “Caroline’s Promise.” Also, your donations at the 50/50 booth, coffee station, sewing booth, charging station, and other volunteer areas will provide another opportunity to contribute to this worthy cause. We all need to ‘twist the throttle’ for charity.

If you, or your club, would like to donate before or after the rally, simply write a check payable to the “BMW MOA,” indicating “Karol’s Charity” in the memo area and send it to Susanna Parkhouse, BMW MOA CHARITY, 2359 Hwy 101 S, Greer, SC 29651.

Thank you in advance for supporting “Caroline’s Promise.”

People's Choice Bike Show and Judging at the Rally

By Roger Trendowski #88147

This year’s Rally has an event for everyone– those who want to show-off their cool BMW motorcycles and everyone else who wants to help judge them: “The People’s Choice Show.” Our bike classes have been selected to be interesting with some stock and some weird.

Bike Show classes include:

• Air Heads (non-vintage)

• Oil Heads

• Hex Heads/C Heads/Wet Heads

• K flying bricks

• K everything else (Wedge, transverse, straight 6)

• F singles and 2-cyl

• S1000, Other BMW Bikes

• Most Farkled - we’ll count them (does not include tank bag or panniers)

• Mud & Bugs & Deviant– most mess covering the bike as well as most custom bike setup that varies from stock.

• BMW Sidecar rigs

Popular vote winners for each class will receive first, second and third place award ribbons. One overall “Best-in-Show” award will be provided for the most popular bike. Photos will be taken of all the bikes and posted on a MOA linked website after the Rally.

Bikes will be lined-up according to classes no later than 9 a.m. on Saturday morning. All rally attendees are invited to come by to review the bikes and vote for best-in-class between 9 a.m. and 12:30 p.m. Votes will then be tallied up with awards given out between 2:00 and 2:30 p.m. Look for more event details in your Rally Program. See you there!

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Vintage BMW Display and Seminar

By Lee Deyoung #31683

This year, the BMW MOA and VintageBMW.org have gotten together to celebrate BMW’s 100th anniversary of BMW motorcycles. To honor that, we have opened up the Vintage Display for BMW’s built from 1923 through 1993. We have had a great interest this year and are expecting to have more than 70 vintage BMW motorcycles on display.

BMW enthusiasts will be amazed at the antique and classic models, museum restorations and daily riders ranging from the early 1920s through 1993 at the rally. There will be pre-war singles and twins from the ‘20s and ‘30s, such as the R 32 (the first BMW motorcycle made), as well as sport machines like the R 57 and R 17 and work horses such as the R 11 and R 12 models. Also on display will be post-war models such as R 51/2, the first twin made after the war, along with an assortment of /2s, /5s, /6s, /7s, R 90s, and sport and touring bikes of the ‘80s and early ‘90s.

All will be highlighting the evolution of BMW design, engineering, and the current state of technology. The variety of bikes on display include those which have been lovingly and painstakingly restored, and others carefully and mindfully preserved as original, each representing an important part of the BMW motorcycle story.

Vintage owners and restorers Bob Lonergan, Jack Wells and Lee Deyoung, will lead a seminar Friday morning titled “Restoration and Preservation of Vintage BMWs.” Check the rally schedule for location. The presenters have personally

restored and ridden antique and classic BMWs and are experts in their fields. They will discuss mechanics, electrics, paint, storage, insurance, and the history of these machines. How-tos and resources will highlight the seminar, along with discussion and a Q & A. Participation is encouraged. This is a wonderful opportunity for those who have or are in the process of restoring a vintage bike or contemplating doing so to meet, network and share information.

The exhibited bikes can be judged (which is strictly optional) Saturday morning starting at 9 a.m. with judging based on factory originality and the AMCA philosophy where each bike is assessed on its own merits beginning at 100 points. An Awards Ceremony will take place Saturday afternoon at 1:30 p.m., at the display site. Bikes rated over 95 will receive an “Award of Excellence.”

Two special memorial awards will be presented: “The Vern Mitchell Trophy” to the enthusiast who accurately and beautifully restored a pre-1993 bike on his or her own, and “The Jim Falk Award” to the visionary who actively promotes the restoration and preservation of vintage BMWs. At the end of the ceremony, there will be a raffle for owners who entered their BMW in the Vintage Display.

The Vintage Display defines the historic importance of BMWs as bikes to be studied, treasured and enjoyed. Collectors, restorers and enthusiasts are invited and encouraged to exhibit their vintage machines. All rally participants are welcome to visit the exhibit for a journey through BMW motorcycles’ traditions and history.

Top 10 Roads in Virginia

By Wes Fleming #87301

Whether you’re coming to the Rally, going back home or just looking for a great day ride while you’re there, Virginia has some of the most amazing roads you’ll find anywhere in the mid-Atlantic states. From tree-lined country lanes to technical, curvy mountains roads, you’ll find it all in Virginia—and that’s without having to venture off-road for any of it! Having lived in Virginia for my entire life as a motorcyclist, I’ve ridden all of these roads, some of them multiple times. Trust me when I tell you they’re all worth your attention during your motorcycling vacation to Virginia.

1. Virginia Route 16, with 300 curves in 32 miles, is known colloquially as the Back of the Dragon and is the state’s only designated motorcycle road. The north end of this amazing road is in Tazewell, one of southwest Virginia’s many small cities now recovering from the collapse of the coal industry. There are numerous great places to stay and eat, and other small SWVA cities like Bristol and Abingdon are nearby. You could easily spend a week in Tazewell, enjoying the many wonderful roads in the region. VA 16 continues on to meet up with US 58 in Volney, providing easy access to the rest of the state. The stretch from Tazewell to Marion is particularly amazing and not just because you have to ride through a town called Frog Level! Find out more at backofthedragon. com.

2. US Highway 58 is the longest road in Virginia. You’ll see everything Virginia has to offer visitors from one end of this road to the other, from mountains to beaches. Pick up US 58 at Cumberland Gap, just across the Virginia state line in Tennessee, and if you have time, ride the entire 500-mile stretch of US 58 to Virginia Beach. Alternately, you could pick up US 15 in South Boston and follow other US highways to Richmond and on to the rally site.

3. The Blue Ridge Parkway is a national park, so if you don’t have an Eagle Pass, you’ll have to pay to get on this historic and scenic road. The

BRP connects Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina to Virginia’s Shenandoah National Park. A little under half of the BRP is in Virginia, and if you can handle the low speed limit (45 through most of the park), you’ll be hard-pressed to find better views in the state.

4. You can’t drive (or ride a motorcycle) on the Virginia Creeper Trail, but if your trip to or from The 50th takes you anywhere near Abingdon in the far southwest corner of the state, it’s well worth your time to walk as much of the 35-mile Virginia Creeper Trail as you can—or rent (or bring!) a bicycle and cover more of it that way.

5. US 11 is the most scenic and relaxing way to traverse the western spine of Virginia, especially if you despise the idea of dodging construction and heavy truck traffic on I-81. What Virginians historically called the Valley Road is now a well-maintained US highway built largely on the 18thcentury Valley Pike; it parallels the interstate from Bristol to Winchester. If you’re riding to or from the rally site through the western third of the state, you can easily leave US 11 and cross Virginia to get to the Rally in a number of locations and stay off the interstates completely.

6. Skyline Drive is another road-specific National Parkway. It runs 105 miles through some of Virginia’s most beautiful countryside, terminating i n Shenandoah National Park and connecting easily to the Blue Ridge

Parkway near Rockfish Gap, which is easily accessible from I-64 and thus an easy way to get to or from the rally site near Richmond.

7. US 33 covers about 120 miles between Richmond and Harrisonburg. If you’re staying at the Rally’s preferred hotel (Virginia Commons), you’re already near where the best parts of US 33 start. While you can follow the road into downtown Richmond, you’re better off heading north from Glen Allen. You’ll pass through numerous small towns, traverse miles of beautiful Virginia countryside and get a good look at the George Washington National Forest. As you approach Harrisonburg, you’ll go over the spine of the Blue Ridge through Shenandoah National Park. Harrisonburg is 105 miles from Glen Allen, allowing an easy out-and-back day trip with plenty of time to get lunch and explore Harrisonburg before heading back for the evening’s entertainment at the Rally.

8. Though a ride along US 522/211/340 from Culpeper to New Market covers just 50 miles, you’ll want to run it both directions at least once, because it’s 50 miles of amazing scenery and—once you pick up US 211 to go over the mountain—some of the most fun, most technical mountain curves you can possibly imagine. Watch for speed traps on the mountain.

9. The Colonial National Historical Parkway is—well, it’s another roadbased park in Virginia! It starts at the Colonial Williamsburg Visitor Center just south of US 60 in Williamsburg and runs ESE to Yorktown and US 17, passing through Colonial National Historical Park and the Yorktown American Revolution Museum before ending at Yorktown Battlefield. It’s 13 miles of Virginia byway stuffed full of Revolutionary War history, all easily accessible from the Rally site.

10. Richmond-area riders know the Nickel & Dime (VA 5 & 10) as a beautiful day ride providing beautiful scenery, low-stress riding and plenty of opportunities for sightseeing and a great meal. Take VA 5 east to Jamestown and grab lunch before crossing the James River on the ferry and heading west to Hopewell via VA 10. From Hopewell—another good food stop if you weren’t hungry before—it’s easy to hop on I-295 for a quick return to the rally site.

Honorable Mention: Known as the Snickersville Turnpike, VA 734 connects US 50 near Aldie to Bluemont and VA 7, both of which are major east-west thoroughfares for anybody looking to escape from (or go to) the population-dense Northern Virginia suburbs. This is a nice, easy ride through farm country, with fun elevation changes and sweeping curves. Hop over to Berryville on VA 7 and take US 340 north into West Virginia for more spectacular riding and easy access to Winchester for food or lodging.

Rubber Side Down by Ron Davis

Well, he’s gone and done it again. Our very own Ron Davis has published another collection of his clever works, kindly saving us from having to page through shelves of BMW Owners News back issues to reread them. Unlike evaluations of products rendered obsolete with the passage of time or descriptions of events that have come and gone, Ron’s accounts of motorcycling life are delightfully evergreen, just as entertaining years later as they were upon their original release.

This follow-up volume to his prior anthology, Shiny Side Up, includes four articles not previously published in ON, but instead prepared for the general public; two were featured on Wisconsin Public Radio’s “Wisconsin Life” and two appear here for the first time. It turns out Ron’s elegantly casual style makes for pleasurable reading, regardless of subject matter. In addition to 26 of his ON columns, readers will find portraits of four fascinating motorcyclists, and reviews of several motorcycling books and a little gear, along with some amusing April Fools spoofs. The guy has range. (There’s also an entry by an easily recognized guest writer.)

Now, before you dismiss the following praise as merely one MOA writer scratching the back of another, consider Mr. Davis’s credentials. As Associate Editor and columnist for ON since 2014, he’s authored a multitude of essays, product reviews, humor pieces and feature articles, earning enough popularity to warrant publication of two curated assortments of these in book form. With a Master’s Degree in English/Language Arts Teacher Education and a Bachelor’s Degree in English/Journalism, he knows a thing or two about writing good— er, well. He’s taught high school and university classes in composition, photography, and publishing, and has been a frequent contributor to the

aforementioned WPR program and “Volume One,” a Wisconsin arts and entertainment magazine, among other media outlets. These aren’t accomplishments just anyone could claim. They reflect an enduring passion for the field of communication, along with a skill set supporting widespread success in same. Like our beloved motorcycle marque, Ron possesses the pedigree to make complimentary remarks readily believable. He’s a proven wordsmith, independent of my opinion. Anyway, back to my opinion…

As a fellow writer, I admire Ron’s lucidly flowing efficiency. His training and professional history allow him to tell a tale or convey an idea clearly and succinctly—and with charming warmth—in half the words I’d need, giving his audiences much more value for their time and attention. Rubber Side Down delivers more of this high-quality prose. Similar to the first, this new book carries the subtitle, The Improbable Inclination to Travel on Two Wheels. Whereas the main titles are meant to provoke smiles within the motorcycling fold, the subtitles seem designed to conjure curiosity among folks who view our avocation with some skepticism. It’s usually prudent to acknowledge a skeptic’s stance as understandable before launching any persuasive efforts. Outsiders who give Ron a chance to explain “the improbable” will find stories that appeal to the humanity in us all—our fumbling attempts to cope with unexpected challenges, the necessity of humor in dealing with the inevitable absurdities involved, and the hard-won wisdom accumulated along the way. The topic

of riding and maintaining motorcycles is merely the medium with which Ron works. His underlying theme is a more universally compelling aspect of life’s endless lesson: the often-painful acquisition of humility.

While Rubber Side Down certainly offers insights for perplexed non-riders, it’s the avid motorcyclist who will best appreciate Ron’s anecdotes, relishing the kinship of another journeyman. Despite his breadth of knowledge and experience as a rider for five decades, Ron always speaks from a place of wonder and continual learning. In other words, he relates to the vast majority of us commoners who aren’t professional racers, Iron Butt champions, or factory-trained mechanics. He can find adventure in something as mundane as an oil change, yet has also undertaken

derring-do most of us would studiously (nay, vehemently!) avoid, such as trekking through Wisconsin snowstorms and relentlessly torrential rains on two wheels. Long-time riders will shake their heads knowingly about the trials and tribulations that eventually befall us all if we continue exploring the realms opened up to us by our bikes. We don’t have to go to great lengths to have great—and disastrous—experiences. We need only step into the fray and stay there. Ron reports on the wildness and ironies that ensue, replete with dread, exhilaration, regret, relief, and gratitude, all threads in life’s rich tapestry. A smattering of hardware-focused pieces will likely interest only motorcycling enthusiasts, but the rest of these compositions immerse any reader in the thoroughly organic drama of contending with risk, frustration, discomfort, and unwelcome surprises, as well as excitement, awe, reflective solitude, and the invigorating joys of belonging to a like-minded community.

I fully realize this appraisal would be more credible if I could find something to criticize about Ron’s latest public offering, but I can’t. Maybe my enjoyment of this book would have been enhanced if the black-and-white photos had been in color, or if Ron had sat down and read it to me in person over a series of adult beverages, allowing for spontaneous discussion of each element I found familiar or startling. As it stands, the friendly conversational manner of Rubber Side Down is as close to such communion as I could hope for in print. Available from Road Dog Publications and just about any online bookseller for around $20, it came out just in time for those enduring a winter riding hiatus.

Visit RoadDogPub.com for more information.

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Klim's Maverick Jacket

A friend with extensive touring experience recommended the Maverick to me as a perfect complement to most any riding jacket with a little room for layering. I was skeptical, as the product photos on Klim’s website left me thinking it would be too bulky and make for uncomfortable binding at my shoulders and elbows, especially given my preference for a more “tailored” fit in my gear. The fact Klim is selling my color choice at a huge discount (navy blue is being discontinued) nudged me past my reservations, and I’m very glad to report this jacket is actually worth full MSRP at $249.99.

The Maverick, which feels almost weightless, can be worn on its own and simply looks like any number of light-duty “puffy” jackets that have become so popular in recent years. What makes it special is its compressibility; it can be squished down to fit inside one of its own hand-warmer pockets (turned inside-out) and then zipped shut for storage as a compact, self-contained pouch. This same compressibility makes the Maverick virtually undetectable inside even a fairly close-fitting riding jacket, as it offers no resistance to bending at any joint. Its 20D nylon shell blocks any wind that might otherwise invade the riding jacket’s interior, either through the jacket’s fabric or the openings at the neck, hem, or sleeve cuffs, where the Maverick serves as a sort of soft “gasket.”

The Maverick delivers substantially increased comfort in chilly weather. It provides what I consider adequate insulation within a lightweight, nonmesh, synthetic riding jacket down to about 50 degrees on a bike with no windscreen. Yet it somehow also avoids

being too warm as the mercury rises. I’ve felt no need to remove it all the way up into the low 70s. Such is the time-honored efficacy and versatility of genuine goose down, which the Maverick keeps in place with seamless baffles (no stitch holes to leak wind or warmth, or threads to snag on Velcro).

reflective accents add a bit of visibility when the Maverick is worn by itself.

The only criticism I could generate— and it’s a tiny one—concerns the lay of the collar. While I appreciated its height when I was trying to stay warm, I found it a bit stubbornly upright when unzipped, such that it maintained contact with my throat when I wanted it to relax and lie down. This is a function of the robust construction of the zipper and its little “garage” at the top, all of which contribute to some stiffness. This wasn’t an issue at all when the collar was zipped shut and I wanted it against my neck.

At $249.99, the Maverick may seem pricey for a mid-layer riding garment. However, when you consider its broad performance parameters and the option of wearing it as a stand-alone jacket off the bike, it’s actually a good value. And, if you like navy blue, you may be able to get one at a mere $183.99 while they last. Otherwise, you can choose from four current colorways, in sizes S-3XL. klim.com

DWR treatment of the Maverick’s fabric adds a degree of water-resistance, but it’s not truly waterproof. Its sleeve cuffs are very low-profile with an elastic hem, allowing them to play well with riding jacket sleeve cuffs and glove gauntlets, while still preventing drafts. A hidden drawstring at the Maverick’s lower hem can be cinched via adjustments inside each hand-warmer pocket to further isolate the wearer from the surrounding atmosphere. Finally, 3M Scotchlite

Center, Klim's Maverick jacket offers increased comfort in chilly weather yet avoids beeing too warm as the mercury rises. Above, The Maverick jacket packs away in its own self-contained pouch.

Shoei’s Hornet X2 helmet, Part One

I was first introduced to Shoei helmets in 2016 when the company offered their full-face X-12 to MSF instructors at a discounted price. I bought two helmets, one for my wife and one for me, and they made excellent replacements for our 6-year-old Arais.

We had the X-12 helmets for about three years until the day we had an accident, going down in a sandy corner while traveling about 60 mph. As a motorcycle instructor since 1994, I made sure we were always strict ATGATT adherents, and we escaped virtually unscathed. My wife only had a hair-line fracture of her collar bone from log rolling down the road, while my 242-foot slide down the asphalt left me with no major injuries, even though I had hit my head pretty firmly. Those X-12s really did their job, but now they’re only wall hangers, so when I was given an opportunity to test a Shoei Hornet X2 Adventure, I jumped at the chance!

Fit and Finish

Fresh out of the box, I was very impressed with the shape, style and multi-color design of the helmet. The paint and graphics scheme will nicely match the looks of my BMW 310 and 1250 GS.

The Hornet X2 in Medium at first pulled on a little snugly, but once it was seated, the fit was firm and comfortable. After wearing it around for a while, I noticed no immediate pressure points or hot-spots, and Shoei’s sizing scale seems pretty accurate. The company also offers a range of cheek pad sizes to fine tune your fit level if needed. Once installed, the included breath guard and chin curtain did not interfere with taking the helmet on and off.

Shell

The shell of the Hornet X2 uses Shoei’s own MultiPly Matrix AIM+ construction, a mix of fiberglass and organic fibers which

Shoei claims provides strength, durability and light weight. My Medium weighed in at 3.9 lbs.; however, in the full XS-XXL range, Shoei offers four shell sizes, so your results may vary. Inside the shell, the Hornet X2 uses a dual-layer, multidensity EPS liner for impact absorption with air channels for cooling.

Interior

Shoei claims the new 3D Max-Dry System II absorbs and dissipates sweat twice as fast as traditional nylon interiors, a definite plus for Adventure riders. The center pad, cheek pads, ear pads, and chin strap covers are easily removed for washing and sanitizing. The ear pads can also be removed to accommodate speakers. The cheek guards have internal, cut-out grooves for glasses or sunglasses to slide in with ease. The Hornet X2 also has an EQRS (Emergency Quick Release System), the same technology Shoei uses in VFX-W and X-12 racing helmets, which allows emergency medical personnel to detach the cheek pads by pulling red tabs, thereby reducing strain on the neck before removing the helmet.

Visor

The Hornet X2 replaced the Hornet DS in 2015, and comparing pictures of both, the visor on the X2 looks more streamlined,

and has more vent louvers for air flow. To remove the visor, (no tools required), turn the thumbscrews on the sides, then press the tab on the top of the helmet and pull the visor forward to remove it. If you decide to ride with the visor off, I would recommend covering the tab hole to keep rain out. An auto body shop or auto parts store would carry plugs, plastic or rubber, that would work.

Shield

Another improvement from the Hornet DX, the Hornet X2’s eye-port is larger, which increases peripheral vision and easily accommodates goggles. Shoei claims the new CNS-2 shield is optically correct due to a new 3D injection process, and also blocks 99 percent of UV rays. The QR-N shield base-plate is spring loaded, which in closing, pulls the shield tight against the seal. There is also a locking mechanism

Shoei’s venerable Hornet X2 in Soveriegn TC-10 livery.

when the shield is fully closed. A Pinlock EVO anti-fog system is included with the helmet. Note: The shield can be easily removed without removing the visor.

Ventilation

Since the Hornet is designed for both on- and off-road riding, Shoei has built in quite a collection of vents. The lower front vent is a large, multi-position air intake/defroster for fresh air and clear vision. The two shutter-controlled upper vents funnel air to the forehead, and another large vent under the visor brings air to the crown of your head. Behind the visor are four additional intake/exhaust vents that equalize air pressure, and lastly, there are three neck outlet vents to remove hot air.

Like all Shoei lids, the Hornet X2 comes with a limited 5-year warranty, and Shoei has a reputation for great customer service. Price range: solid colors $639.99, metallic colors $649.99, multi-colors (graphics) $759.99. Shoei says the Hornet X2 is designed to maintain peak performance for road and off-road adventure riding, and figuring most popular adventure bikes are probably rated around 80/20 (80% road, 20% off-road), my educated guess would be that the Hornet X2 would perform well in both. After a couple of months of riding on and off-road this summer wearing the Shoei Hornet X2, we’ll see if that’s true, and I’ll be back with my road test review.

For more information about the Hornet X2, visit Shoei-Helmets.com.

Randy Crank started riding in 1966 and has since owned 50 motorcycles, including bikes from Triumph, BSA, Norton, Harley, Moto Guzzi, all four Japanese brands and BMW (16). His current rides are a 1250 GS, an R nine T, an Urban GS, a 310 GS and a Moto Guzzi. With his wife Barb often as a co-pilot, he’s ridden through 42 states, and was an MSF instructor for 25 years.

Top to Bottom: The Shoei Hornet’s visor is easily removed by turning two turnbuckles (no tools!)

Shoei claims their 3D Max-Dry System II absorbs and dissipates sweat twice as fast as traditional nylon interiors.

Shoei provides two red tags for emergency cheek pad removal on the Hornet X2.

Another Riding Season Begins

It was March 17, 1972, when I stood in the doorway of the plane that had brought me to Colorado Springs, Colorado, after my tour of duty in Viet Nam. Standing there and looking out over a brown, dried up prairie before me, I could only wonder what John Denver was singing about. With 16 months of Army time remaining on my enlistment, I had saved up enough to cover the purchase price of a BMW R 75/5 so when I got home, I could take off for a long journey around the U.S. I bought my new R 75/5 (for $2,150) on April 14th, 1972, with absolutely NO IDEA of where that machine would take me over the next half-century.

As this year’s St. Patrick’s Day approached, I could feel the start of the new riding season approaching. House finches have been checking out the

My first ever BMW which I bought 51 years ago as of April 14th. Purchased new, the bike now has 434,000 miles on it. The engine has been renewed a few times and that gust of wind that blew me into a guard rail three years ago took out the front parts forward of the main frame. Turning a short wheelbase bike into a long wheel base bike called for replacing all parts behind the gas tank. Looking back, the acquisition of the Slash Five has proved to be a life-changer in ways I never would have imagined.

nesting platform I set up on our front porch. We usually see multiple bird families lay eggs, raise young and all fly away in a matter of several weeks. Various flowers are appearing in the garden.

I also fired up Strider, the R 75/5 referred to above that I purchased so long ago, a couple of weeks after coming home. With 434,000 miles on the odometer, it started right up after a nap of three months. Draining the carbs, adding Stabil to the gas and applying a battery charger a couple of times does help avoid problems after a winter hibernation.

After a short ride across town yesterday, my painful shoulders were reminding me that long-range riding is most likely a thing of the past–no more straight shots from Colorado to Los Angeles. If

that is the case, my “Mexico bike” and the pair of Slash Fives we have stashed in Heidelberg in Stefan Knopf’s warehouse will be up for sale, perhaps later this year.

My shop has been quiet this winter, as well. A couple of shipped-in transmissions and a fellow with a new-to-him Airhead were about the total of hands-on work over the season.

Susanna and I are planning a lot of travel this spring and summer to visit a grandson graduating from the University of Vermont, a wedding in California and the BMW National Rally in Virginia. Unfortunately, Dick Pachen’s Tech Day in Denver in May will be missed. Dick’s garage and driveway is always a great time with several dozen Airhead folk and support from the guys at the nearby EuroMotoElectric. I’m sorry to be missing

that one.

While I’m writing this column, it is the Fiesta de San Juan de Dios, down in Tultepec, Mexico. After my cutting last year’s ride south short, I did not consider riding down there this time around. I’m thinking of acquiring a car to use as my “Mexico vehicle” for one or two more trips south. As most of you know, I really like fireworks and will be sorry to miss the Fiesta.

From what I’ve seen in my emails, I’ll be seeing a few folks in person at the National. I’m scheduled for an Airhead seminar and am planning on spending a lot of time in Airhead Central. Since we are driving to Virginia, I’ll be bringing tools and parts along with me. I’ve picked up a few bits and pieces over the winter, so I’m set up with bearings and seals for gearboxes, routine engine work and general maintenance. As the time approaches, if someone finds themselves in need of some part, give me a holler and I’ll bring it. If nothing else comes to my attention, I’ll probably open up a gearbox as a demonstration. It will be good to reconnect with my BMW friends.

After that, I’m REALLY looking forward to the warm weather!

Matt acquired his first BMW in 1972, upon his return from Vietnam. He hired on at Doc’s BMW of Colorado Springs in 1977. Since then, his life has been a mixture of travel, owning/working in various shops, as a nurse, and being very involved in his local community. He has owned around 15 Airhead BMWs over the years, but his first bike, a 1972 R 75/5, is parked by the front door with 434,000 miles on the odometer.

Motorcycle Revival at Duke University

Spring Break on a college campus is usually a time for students to recharge by visiting family and friends or taking a trip to warmer climes. Some students can’t get away, so Duke University in Durham, North Carolina, offers informal projectbased courses to pass the time constructively. Music professor Scott Lindroth saw this as an opportunity to share his passion for motorcycling and wrenching with students. Since he himself was relatively new to motorcycle repair, he would make clear that prior mechanical experience was not required. After getting the green light for his “Motorcycle Revival: Repairing and Maintaining a Classic Bike,” Scott called me to discuss what he wanted to do with the kids.

Scott even had the perfect bike in mind: Last spring he purchased a 1975 R

90/6 from me! The bike dates from an era when it was assumed that the owners would do their own maintenance. The R 90 owner’s manual has instructions for valve adjustments, cable replacement and adjustment, fork oil changes, carburetor adjustment, master cylinder repair and other jobs often relegated to professional service centers today. It even includes a detailed wiring schematic as well as exploded diagrams for the carbs, clutch and gear box. It was a different time.

Scott thought this exact thing too, which is why he bought the bike. He’s been riding for just six years, but he is as in love with riding as any of us who wants to get into bikes more deeply. The Airhead was the perfect vehicle to accomplish his goal. He spent most of his

free time last summer working on the bike, starting with rebuilding the forks, front brake caliper and master cylinder. He installed a headlight and turn signals, fixed exhaust leaks, rebuilt the carbs, and adjusted the valve clearances. It was his entry into motorcycle repair, and he loved every second of it.

For the course, Scott enlisted the help of myself as well as his friend and colleague, Duke staff photographer Bill Snead, who brought in his 1981 R 65 for students to work on. Both Scott and Bill also added their late-model Triumph Bonnevilles to the mix to ensure everyone would be busy.

An unexpected element of drama arose shortly before the course was to start: The R 90’s clutch suddenly failed. Scott spent a frantic week replacing the plates and

Photo by Bill Snead

the clutch release mechanism and got bike running again the day before the class started. So much for his idea that wrenching is relaxing!

Six students signed up—three from India, one from Ethiopia, one from Japan and one from nearby Cary. Most of the students had never held a wrench before, and three of them do not even drive. They spoke of wanting to “work with their hands,” to “gain some life experience” and to “try something completely different.” Of course, they all thought “motorcycling is cool, but a little scary.”

The class set up shop in the Makerspace at Duke’s Rubenstein Arts Center. The facility has two roll-up doors, making it easy to move bikes in and out as well as large worktables where tools, fluids and parts stayed organized. An adjacent classroom was an ideal space to pore over Clymer manuals and watch William Plam’s terrific Boxer2Valve videos to better understand each task.

Over the week students performed routine maintenance chores: replacing fluids and filters, checking and replacing brake pads, bleeding brake lines, cleaning and adjusting the chain on the Bonnie, and adjusting valve clearances on the two Airheads. Scott had the students remove and reassemble wheels and exhaust silencers to help them become more familiar with the bikes, and what impressed me most was how eagerly these elder teenagers dug into each task, unconcerned with whether they might get dirty.

I missed the animated discussion of Matthew Crawford’s book Shop Class as Soul Craft, which advocates working with hands and tools not only as an honorable alternative to the “knowledge work” dominating university curriculums, but also as an endeavor requiring critical thinking and analysis on top of manual dexterity. We took in videos by moto vloggers “Itchy Boots” (Noraly Schoenmaker) and “Doodle on a Motorcycle” (Caroline) to expose the students a variety of riding styles, ranging from Noraly’s hardcore off-road adventures to Doodle’s evolution from a novice buying her first bike to an experienced touring

motorcyclist. Their channels also make it clear that motorcycling is not just a guy’s sport.

In addition, I showed them footage from Motorrad Fest’s police rodeo and the semi-finals from the 2022 GS Trophy Qualifier at the BMW Performance Center. Bill shared his amazing story of setting a world land speed record at the Bonneville Salt Flats about 10 years ago. He purchased the R 65 with an eye on the 650 PPP title, and he showed the process of disassembling and reconditioning the engine along with footage from the Salt Flats during his successful record attempt.

During the week, students sat on the bikes, started them up and gave the throttle a few revs to whet their appetites. The final class ended with Scott and Bill giving two-up rides on the very bikes students worked on all week; saying they loved it is understating their excitement At least one is already on Craigslist looking for a bike, and the others were smitten. A trio of old and possibly jaded Beemer fans figured there couldn’t be a better outcome from the course than teaching a small degree of self-reliance and possibly bringing new riders into the sport.

Wes Fleming tried being a rock star for 25 years, but gave all that up to focus on motorcycles. His mother still hasn’t forgiven him. The first new motorcycle he ever bought got run over by a car – with him still in the saddle. He discovered BMWs thanks to a friend in 2001 and has been riding trendy, not-so-trendy and sidecarequipped BMWs ever since. Wes currently holds down multiple jobs, including freelance guitar consultant and history professor; when he's not pacing around his empty nest, he's out looking for a great deal on a used motorcycle.

Riding North to the 50th National Rally

By Matt Wank #217542

I grew up in a town named Forest, Virginia, where I attended Forest Middle School, then Jefferson Forest High School. I also lived five minutes from Thomas Jefferson’s Poplar Forest. All of this is just 30 minutes from the Blue Ridge Parkway at the Peaks of Otter.

After high school, I attended James Madison University, which again is only 30 minutes from the Blue Ridge Parkway. These forest and mountain roads of Virginia were my backyard as I was growing up. The Blue Ridge Parkway offers 469 miles of worldrenowned mountain roads running along the spine of the Appalachian Mountains, with about 217 of those miles in Virginia which just happens to be the site of the MOA’s 50th National Rally.

Within the Appalachian Mountains is the Appalachian Trail stretching 2,192 miles across 14 states from Georgia to Maine. Those courageous enough to hike it all at once should reserve six months to do so–but how many of us can be that free? Instead, what many hikers choose to do is adopt the common long-trail

hiking concept called “section hiking.” Section hiking means breaking down a single, longer trail or route into smaller batches and completing them at different times, a few weeks one year, a month the next, until they’ve hiked every mile of a trail.

For riders, while there isn’t an equivalent single road option, there is some can’t-miss pavement running parallel to the Appalachian Trail. However free you can be for the 50th in Richmond, Virginia, I highly recommend incorporating as many of these sections as possible.

I’ll admit to an experience-bias towards the southern half of the Appalachians and have yet to complete the northern portion of my own section riding plan. I apologize to those whose plans only encompass the Northern states it meanders through. Furthermore, for the more adventurous, there are always the non-pavement options meticulously planned and outlined by the Backcountry Discovery Routes (BDR) which you can find at ridebdr.com.

Morning in the Great Smoky Mountains.

Section 1 - Georgia to Tennessee

The southern terminus of the Appalachian Trail is at Springer Mountain, Georgia. Since we’re on motorcycles instead of our feet, let’s start in the town of Helen, Georgia. Not only is it in the same region, but Helen offers an authentic and beautiful Bavarian alpine village community. Nearly every building, from small homes to public markets to hotels, maintains an alpine feel, not to mention all the German restaurants you could dream of. Though the most exciting time to visit is arguably during Oktoberfest, the delicious bratwurst, schnitzel and of course, liters of beer, are available year-round. For a relaxing stroll with some pretty scenery, check out the Anna Ruby Falls Recreation Area in the Chattahoochee-Oconee National Forest.

Even under casual circumstances, the roads from Helen, Georgia to Gatlinburg, Tennessee, offer excellent riding. There’s no bad route to take, you’d be remiss not to include the internationally famous Tail of the Dragon near Deals Gap, North Carolina with its well-known 318 curves in 11 miles. A couple small shops, hotels and a restaurant greet you on the North Carolina end of this stretch, with multiple photo vendors offering photos of riders riding the curves. As a public road, it is not only popular with motorcyclists, but those on four wheels as well. For the clearest run through the curves, I recommend arriving as early in the morning as possible or mid-week. After getting your fill of the tasty curves and a pannier-applied sticker to prove you were there, enjoy a quiet ride along the Great Smoky National Park running towards Gatlinburg, Tennessee.

Section 2: The Great Smoky Mountains

If you’re lucky, you’ll roll into Gatlinburg through a kaleidoscope of Appalachian Azure butterflies for a fairy-tale-like arrival. Gatlinburg itself is a tourist heaven (or hell, depending on your point of view). Check out the Skylift attraction for solid views, including a long suspension bridge with a few glass floor panels. It is a tourist trap, but hey, when in Gatlinburg…

Regardless of the theatricals, if you like mountains, Gatlinburg

is a wonderful place. Take advantage of one of the many mountainside lodgings to get away from the relative bustle of downtown. Depending on where you stay and ride, you will see remnants of the November 2016 wildfire. Nearly seven years later, skeleton after skeleton of hotels and lodges remain. The Lodge at Buckberry Creek is a beautiful resort that lost six of its seven buildings. Despite such loss, they remain operational within the one remaining building, which I cannot recommend enough. Not only are they beautifully appointed, but the views from the private balconies can’t be beat and they’re a lot quieter than staying at a tourist trap in town. While other properties have understandably moved on with no plans to rebuild, Buckberry appears poised to regrow.

Food options are abundant down on the strip, but if you like Cajun, sneak off into the hidden mom-and-pop style New Orleans Sandwich Shop where I’ve enjoyed one of the best Shrimp Po’ Boys I’ve ever had. Their French bread comes from a family recipe and is made fresh daily by a local baker. The owners are no strangers to natural disasters, having moved to Gatlinburg soon after Katrina laid waste to New Orleans. If you have the time and desire, Laurel Hill Falls in the Great Smoky National Park is a pretty and very accessible short hike.

Section 3: The Blue Ridge Parkway (BRP) - North Carolina

Cherokee, North Carolina, near the southern terminus of the Blue Ridge Parkway, is a lovely one-hour ride from Gatlinburg. If you can, catch the stunning multi-state 360-degree views at Clingman’s Dome along the way. Many drive up there just to watch the sunset, but you can also take the steep, but paved walk up for more comprehensive views.

After perusing the numerous trinket stores and grabbing a bite to eat in Cherokee, make your way to the BRP entrance and be sure to snap a photo at the sign for proof of your adventure. As you cruise along taking in the scenery, you’ll notice frequent, if not endless, pullouts for scenic views. I’ve determined identifying the best scenic view is a fool’s errand, so will offer no recommendations there. Not only do they all look just about the same, but a cloudy day will nullify any attempt at photography. Remain aware nonetheless, as they are often located around blind curves, which pair conveniently with distracted drivers not watching the road.

Eventually you’ll end up near the relatively well-known town of Asheville, North Carolina, once referred to as “the next Austin, Texas.” There may not be comparable brisket, but there’s no shortage of camping, hotels, Airbnb, or any other accommodations. If you want something a little quieter than downtown, check out Campfire Lodgings with their typical camping accommodations, including yurts. The average yurt is quite nice and is essentially a secluded hotel room in the woods, often with air conditioning. You might even see the local black bear family that

The beautiful Bavarian Alpine village of Helen, Georgia.

wanders the area. The best amenity is the sunset views overlooking the French Broad River valley. Asheville also has no shortage of dining options. Definitely stop at one of several Biscuit Head locations for a delicious breakfast. Then, use those calories for a moderately difficult summit hike up Mt. Pisgah, right off the BRP outside Asheville.

About an hour north of Asheville is Mount Mitchell, the highest peak east of the Mississippi. While there are plenty of hiking opportunities in the state park, the good news is the 360-degree views at the top are nearly all accessible by vehicle. The few that require walking offer sidewalks.

Another hour away, is Little Switzerland–a quirky town worth a stop for a bite to eat, coffee, and general Swiss Alpine vibe. Additionally, it also offers a hidden surprise: twisties. Routes 226A and 226 snake down the side of the mountain for a thrilling up and down run. While it may not boast as many curves as the Tail of the Dragon, it is lesser known and lesser traveled. Regardless, I’ve seen a BMW M3 on its roof here, so remember that other thrill-seeking drivers are present.

North from Little Switzerland takes you towards the popular town of Blowing Rock where Grandfather Mountain offers a short and easy hike to Rough Ridge Overlook with parking right off the BRP–an easy hike in your riding boots. There’s something about having to exert a little extra effort that makes views like this one’s better than your typical pullout. The overlook also gives you a great view of a bridged section of the BRP called the Linn Cove Viaduct, which you’ll have just ridden over before stopping for the hike.

Near the North Carolina border.

Outside Mount Mitchell State Park.

Rolling into Blowing Rock, you’ll quickly notice all the lodging, dining, drinking and tourism opportunities of all types that are available. Don’t forget about the view from the actual Blowing Rock natural attraction, whose backstory I’ll leave for you to discover on your own visit.

Section 4: The Blue Ridge Parkway (BRP) - Virginia

Riding into Virginia from North Carolina brings steeper, rockier mountainside twisties with medium to long sweeping curves. Although these can be ridden at higher speeds, it might be a disservice to this beautiful winding road and the small points of interest it meanders through.

One such area is the Mabry Mill in the Meadows of Dan–a classically restored mill with a gift shop and restaurant next door. I recommend the “Ed’s Special” which is a pulled pork sandwich with cornmeal pancakes instead of buns. If you’re inclined to stay the night, I recommend the affordable and quaint Woodberry Inn. Be warned though, I’ve seen a seedy gang of K-bike riders there as well. Enjoy relaxing sunset views at the Chateau Morrisette Winery before calling it a night. On your way out the next morning, pop into the Rocky Knob Visitors Center in Floyd with as gorgeous views as nearly every overlook on the BRP.

Section 5: Skyline Drive

After what I roughly estimate to be one thousand overlooks and the end of the BRP, you’ll reach Skyline Drive, still in Virginia. Skyline Drive is 105 miles of beautifully twisting mountain road in Virginia’s Shenandoah National Park. As a national park, there is an entrance fee, which for motorcyclists is $25. The National Park’s America the Beautiful pass will get you in without the extra hit on the wallet. Like many popular roads, the earlier you arrive, the fewer cars you’ll have to contend with. This is particularly important as the speed limit is mostly 35 mph, but the cage drivers could be running anywhere from 20 mph to 60 mph. Weather, subsequent downed trees, rock or mudslides, and other poor conditions can lead to closures. Be sure to check road status to stay ahead of this. Regardless of general weather conditions, it is typically cooler once at elevation. I once underestimated just how much cooler it would be in November and ended my ride in temperatures as low as 26 degrees though it was 45 at the bottom of the mountain. Pack accordingly.

Unimpeded, you’ll need about three hours to complete Skyline Drive. However, Shenandoah National Park has much more to offer, including 500 miles of hiking trails. If you’re looking for an excuse to extend your trip, this is a great place to stay a couple nights. I’ve stayed at several campgrounds in the park, as well as Skyland Lodge. All the typical campground

Scenic Mabry Mill in the Meadows of Dan.

The views always change in the Great Smoky Mountains.

amenities you’d expect from a quality national park are available, and the lodge offers solid room and dining options.

You’ll exit Skyline Drive at the town of Front Royal, Virginia. Stop there for a meal at The Apple House just outside downtown. If you’ve already filled your belly with blackberries at Skyland Lodge, stop anyway for the homemade cake batter apple butter cinnamon donuts, served hot and fresh. If possible, I suggest continuing about an hour north of Front Royal in historic and beautiful Harper’s Ferry, West Virginia. A common stop for those tackling the Appalachian Trail, the town rests on a hillside, surrounded by mountains, at the convergence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers. The best views are at the top of the Maryland Heights trail. Downtown has plenty of options for a lunch break, but depending on how much time you have, check out a local tubing company for a lazy float down the river.

Section 6: Rally Time!

If you can’t make the time to go all the way to Harpers Ferry, the Rally grounds are around a three-hour ride from most points along the Virginia section of the BRP and Skyline Drive. Exiting near Roanoke, Lexington, Staunton or Harrisonburg accommodates road options that don’t require major highways. If you choose Roanoke, you’ll go right by my hometown of Forest.

I considered ending with something emotional and deep about driving on the Blue Ridge Parkway in a car growing up and not recognizing the grandeur of it all or taking it all in.

About how living so close I didn’t fully appreciate the pure blue and purple silhouettes of the Blue Ridge Mountains every day while going to and coming from school. About how, despite being so close my whole life to such a fantastic work of nature, I haven’t spent nearly enough time in it. But this isn’t intended to be an inquisitive or powerful message, so I’ll conclude with one simple message: whatever route you choose to Richmond, for the love of all that is holy, don’t take I-95.

Matt Wank was handed a gift in 2010 when a friend with a motorcycle was willing to let someone else ride it until he could sell it. Matt immediately got his motorcycle license and hasn’t looked back since. Over the past nine years, Matt’s motorcycle journey has included other brands, but in September of 2018, he finally took ownership of his beloved F 650 GS. Matt works as a web performance and security professional— a demanding job but one that also affords him the motorcycling lifestyle. In his free time, Matt enjoys motorcycling of all types, SCUBA, reading (paper copies, as work has him staring at enough screens already), playing with his one-year-old golden retriever, reading BMW ON cover-to-cover, and hopefully, contributing to Owners News as well.

Fear on Route 389

By Dustin Silvey #224778

“What!?” I shouted at Janel while biting into a granola bar at a pullout along the highway.

“I said, do you want to take some photos!?” Janel screamed back, sitting on her bike a few feet away. Another large semi-truck screamed passed us, followed by the echoing sound of the wind it brought with it. In the five minutes we had been parked along the road, at least 50 large semi-trucks had flown past us at well over 100 km/hr (60 mph). The narrow road had dozens of pullouts for the truckers to take breaks, and we took full advantage of them, allowing our brains to recoup from all the truck dodging.

“Yeah, let me grab the camera,” I snuck between the noise of the convoy trucks.

Ontario is known to road trippers as the “never-ending province.” Most Canadian provinces’ landmasses run north to south; Ontario’s, however, runs east to west. Even the shortest route across Ontario is 1500 km (930 miles) of mostly flat road. We decided to take the shortest route east as it would cut down on the driving time, put us into the more remote areas of Quebec when we crossed the border, and hopefully cut down on traffic. The first two points worked out great, but on the last one, we were just plain wrong. We didn’t realize it, but we had put ourselves on the main trucking route through Ontario.

It wasn’t all trucks; there were many deer, rabbits, friendly people, and small French-Canadian communities. Exploring was not on our agenda; however, the marathon of our cross-Canada trip had begun: 3400 km (2100 miles) in nine days, from West Hawk Lake, Manitoba, to Labrador City, Labrador. I realize this only averages around 380 km a day, but in the previous weeks, we averaged about 200 km a day with many days off. This was a giant leap. The distance wasn’t even the most challenging part, 170 km of the trip was stated as dangerous dirt roads with no cell service or support. At this point, we were all in, and I was excited.

The ride through northern Ontario was primarily uneventful: Janel continued to get better at riding (although she would never admit it), we did our best to stay out of the way of the trucks, and we tried to keep warm as the summer had not yet arrived in this part of Canada. We had our last Ontarian meal at a diner in the small town of Matheson. Sitting at a window table, we ate our sandwiches and watched as the dark clouds that had locked out the morning sun finally broke. On day three of our marathon, we covered 1350 km (840 miles), and I could tell Janel was already tired. She was a little less cheery but never complained about the riding, only the rain and wind. I knew she was stressed about the ride along the dirt roads into Labrador; doubt had crept into her mind if she could do it. I did my best to stay positive, and as we left the diner into the afternoon sun’s warmth, I hoped Quebec

“Of all the liars in the world, sometimes the worst are our own fears”

~ Rudyard Kipling

Dodging trucks in Ontario.

would lift her spirits.

Crossing the border into Quebec, we felt an instant change in the atmosphere: traffic dropped to almost none, the semi-trucks were gone, and the trees grew close to the roads. We felt revitalized. The curves got more frequent, and as we came around one corner, sitting in the middle of the road was a black bear. After coming to a stop, I honked my horn several times, but the bear almost seemed irritated by the fact we wanted him to move off the road. Janel and I slowly crept the bikes forward while the bear stared, annoyed at us, until finally, our game of chicken ended with the bear sauntering off the highway and into the trees.

We rode out of the forests and into the farmland that is western Quebec. Large, colorful houses with vast amounts of land stretched over the horizon. It was beautiful but also confusing as most things looked the same, and our GPS wasn’t working all that well out here. Once we finally located our bed and breakfast for the night, we were fascinated by the fact our hosts did not speak English. Quebec and the rest of Canada are seen as very different (some of New Brunswick could be added in there, but I will address that in a future story); political ideas, language, and culture are contrasting between the two. Growing up on the west coast of Canada, Janel and I were not as exposed to the French Canadian language or culture as much as we should have been. As the kind hosts of our bed and breakfast tried desperately to converse with us, I felt a bit ashamed at my lack of speaking one of Canada’s two official languages. What surprised me the most, however, was less

than 50 km away in Ontario, everyone spoke English and likely no French. The transition from crossing the border into Quebec was like passing into another country, not another province.

In the rest of Canada, Quebec-ers are rumored to be snobby about the French language; however, we never once encountered this as we continued through rural Quebec. The most common experience we had with people not speaking English was them apologizing to us for that fact. My response was always the same: “I am in your home; I should speak your language, which, in reality, is also my language.” The few times we were in areas with cell service, the Google Translate app got us through conversations. Most of the time, we used hand signals and would laugh our way through, asking simple things such as “What time is breakfast?”

Another thing people on the west coast say is that people from Quebec are rude and unkind. We experienced the opposite. One example was on the third day of riding across the province when we arrived in another rainstorm at our bed and breakfast on Lake Saint-Jean. Tired and wet, we unloaded the bikes with the help of our hosts. We were on day five of the nine days and had ridden just over 2200 km (1370 miles). Janel was moving slowly, and I could tell she was tired from the riding, and being damp wasn’t helping the situation. When we rode into this rural area, I noticed there was nowhere to eat nearby, so as we pulled out one of our pannier bags, I told Janel to go inside and shower, and I would ride out to get us something to eat. Janel being Janel, she wouldn’t let me go alone and informed me we would both head out for dinner. I went in to tell our hosts we were off,

Crossing Quebec.

and in their broken English, they said: “Do you want our car?” This was one of those moments where my Indian family would have been disappointed in me. It is almost a cultural rule that you politely decline any offer three times before finally accepting. Respecting my heritage was not on my list of priorities at that moment, and an astounded “YES!” came out of my mouth. The short drive into town was the first time we had been in a car in five weeks. It was nice to see the rain hitting the windshield instead of my visor and not worry about the cold wind blowing outside.

After our early afternoon dinner, we got to know our hosts’ farm animals. Janel fell in love with Pablo, the miniature horse, and I laughed as Janel tried her hands at milking what I can only say is the most patient goat on the planet. It was such a relaxing evening, and it felt like we were back to our normal one-day riding, one-day off. In the morning, we were refreshed and excited to start riding north toward Labrador.

Gas can be a problem for the 586 km (365 miles) of Route 389 that runs from the banks of the St. Lawrence River to Labrador City. Before heading out that first morning we gassed up and also topped up our jerrycans. The two gas stations along the route had been rumored not to have the highest quality fuel, and having engine issues along a route without cell service didn’t sound like a great idea. Packed and gassed up, we began the final two, likely most difficult, days of the marathon ride.

The first 214 km (132 miles) of Route 389 is curvy and wellpaved. There isn’t a lot of traffic, and the curves make for a fun ride. The road was being rerouted, and construction was everywhere for the first 100km. Large dump trucks smashed along rocky construction roads, while backhoes used breakers to smash the rocks below, creating clouds of dust that hung in the air. I often checked my side mirrors to ensure Janel wasn’t falling behind in the curves, but the laughter in her voice while we spoke told me she was enjoying them as much as me.

Our destination for that evening was Manic Cinq generating station and Daniel-Johnson Dam. Turning a corner into the valley of the dam was a moment I will never forget: the dam loomed over us in all its shocking height and width, making us feel like tiny ants. I have seen the Hoover Dam, but the Daniel-Johnson Dam just took my breath away; it is monstrous. The dam is 1,310.6m long and 213.97m high and features 14 buttresses and 13 arches. I really couldn’t believe the size of it. We were able to snag a tour of the dam that took us inside, outside and around, which made for a fascinating experience.

After our tour, we pulled into the local worker’s camp hotel for the evening. It was basic but had all we needed to get some rest before our final 372 km (231 miles) push to Labrador City. This section had over 170 km of bad dirt road that started the moment we left the dam site. It had some ugly torn-up pavement for a section, then the worst of the dirt was at the end, where we would zigzag train tracks. I knew Janel was nervous, but our goal was to leave early in the morning and take it slow.

Loading up the bikes in the morning sun, I was excited. This was the section of road I was most excited to ride on the whole trip. I saw the concern on Janel’s face, but I knew she could do it. We did some warm-up stretches and headed to the top of

the dam to get riding in the dirt. Janel took the first section of the dirt road well. She was nervous but soon was catching up to me, forcing me to go faster. Her confidence had bloomed over the past five weeks of riding across Canada, and I only heard concern in her voice when a semi-truck would pass us. The trucks were aware and respectful of our presence, leaving us lots of room as they passed, which was more than I could say for other parts of Canada. We came to the only shop along the route a little after two hours. There was gas there, but we had more than enough with our jerrycans to make it to Labrador City, so we pulled in, hoping to get some breakfast. The woman managing the shop was laughing and chatting with three other riders already there. She spoke English and was very sweet, but she was a little all over the place and eccentric. When I paid for my grilled cheese and a chocolate bar for Janel (yes, Janel had chocolate for breakfast that day), she charged me for one of the other rider’s gas fill up. The group of us, including her, all laughed at how all over the place she was, and it brought to mind how living in the middle of nowhere for an extended period can have some interesting effects on people. While enjoying our sandwich and chocolate, we spoke to the other riders on Harleys with 100% road tires.

“How are those tires on the road?” I asked.

“Probably not as good as yours.” One of them replied, laughing as he pointed out the window at our Motoz 50/50 tires.

We had a short conversation with them about their ride, and they explained that while they were on the gravel, they were sticking to 50 km/hr (30 mph). It was smart. There are a lot of accidents on this road when people don’t use the correct tires, and help can be a long ride away as there is no cell service for the extent of the highway.

Still having a long way to go, we didn’t want to spend too much time chatting. We left before the others, carrying on north and avoiding the massive potholes that now littered the paved section of the road. Once we were a short distance from the final gravel section that Wikipedia describes as “gravel: bad condition, very narrow and twisty,” we pulled over to fuel up the bikes. I was pouring Janel’s jerrycan into her gas tank when a trucker from Calgary came over to chat with us. He had driven this road many times and gave us some advice for the narrow road ahead: “look both ways at the train tracks, go slow through some of the corners because the trucks on the other side won’t be able to see you, and it isn’t as bad as the internet says it is.”

Taking his advice and our fueled-up bikes, we started the biggest challenge of this road trip. Readers are likely prepared for a big climatic story about how difficult the ride was or some intense deep brooding feeling that I had about the trip, but really, it wasn’t that bad. After about 30 km, I told Janel: “it looks like this was just graded,” About 2 km later, we caught up to the grader. The road was literally being graded for us as we went. What more could we ask for? There was almost no traffic, and we had to wait for one train at a crossing, but otherwise, the trip was uneventful.

As we pulled up to the provincial sign of Newfoundland and Labrador, I laughed at how easy and uneventful this day was. The part Janel was dreading most of the whole trip, let alone the nine-day marathon, wasn’t all that bad. If I had to be honest, the 1500 km of semi-truck-ridden highway across northern Ontario was far scarier and should instill much more fear than Route 389.

Gite Le Presbytere

Located across the border between Quebec and Ontario, this little bed and breakfast is a great inexpensive spot to grab a good night’s rest. This was also our first experience with a Quebec B&B breakfast, and I promise you will not leave hungry.

They have three rooms that include breakfast, all 105 CAD/night ($76 USD)

www.gitelepresbytere.net/

Vieille Ecole du Rang 3

Located on Lake Saint-Jean, this small one-bedroom B&B is fantastic. With farm animals to interact with, km of trails to wander, a hot tub, and canoes and kayaks, this is the perfect place to recoup if you have just ridden through western Quebec. And again, breakfast will not leave you hungry.

The room is 130 CAD/night ($94 USD).

They don’t have a dedicated website, but it will come right up if you Google the name.

Manic Cinq and Daniel-Johnson Dam

The dam tour was one of the highlights of our whole trip. As mentioned in the story, you go into the dam, on top of it, etc. And if you don’t speak French, you get a private tour with an English-speaking guide. Well worth the stop.

It is completely free; just make sure you book ahead.

www.hydroquebec.com/facility-tours/tours-general-public/ daniel-johnson-manic-5-cote-nord.html

If you want to see our ride over Route 389, you can visit youtube.com/@lostingear/videos.

Next month we explore Labrador: losing a drone, visiting a historic fishing village, and riding the famous Labrador Highway.

Dustin grew up in Quesnel, British Columbia, and began riding on the back of his father's motorcycle many years ago. He has a doctorate of Community Health with a speciality in Indigenous health. He currently works several contract positions with Indigenous organizations across Canada. Dustin's publication credits include The Globe and Mail, CBC, and Vice News, along with several extreme sport magazines such as Explore, Sidetracked, Canoe and Kayak, and Paddle Magazine.

Dustin and Janel currently live in Powell River, British Columbia.

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THE Journey Begins

Katherine Becksvoort #222648

Whenever I thought about it, my dream of riding a motorcycle from Idaho to the southern tip of Patagonia seemed impossible. Still, every adventure, large or small, begins with a step forward–a step toward the dream, toward the planning, the packing, the logistics, and eventually, the adventure itself. Then, when the departure date finally arrives, the adventure begins whether you are entirely ready or not.

I purchased my first motorcycle in 2016, a new R 1200 GS Adventure. I chose this bike because it was beautiful, capable and the one I had always dreamed of riding. While waiting for the bike I ordered from Pandora’s European Motorsports in Chattanooga, Tennessee, I took a motorcycle safety course. Finally, Pandora called to say the GS had arrived and asked if I would like to come by to watch her be set up. I was excited to observe the process, and the Pandora mechanics even encouraged me, under their supervision, to put a few of her pieces together. I was already hooked.

Having only ridden a 250 cc Honda Rebel during the safety course, I didn’t have the confidence to ride my big, new GS home from the dealership. Once set up, Pandora delivered it to my house, assuring me it wasn’t unusual to make deliveries to new customers. They parked her in the garage, gave me a congratulatory smile and high five for being a new bike owner, encouraged me to read the owner’s manual, and then left with the delivery van, leaving me looking at her in wonder.

Over the next year, with the change of seasons, lack of people I knew to ride with, working as a nurse full-time while also running a small business, life distractions, and any other excuses I could find, I was still intimidated by the beautiful machine in my garage. Still, I longed to gain confidence and spend time riding in the mountains and valleys of east Tennessee, although I didn’t have much spare time. Truth be told, the spontaneity of going out for an afternoon ride on my own filled my overthinking mind with images of what could happen, most of them involving some bodily injury or disaster on my part. As a surgical trauma nurse, the imagined possibilities of misfortune bounced around in my head. My confidence wasn’t there even after a year of owning a GS. Confidence, I knew, could only be earned through accumulated road miles.

Finally, my boyfriend, who shared my dream of riding around the world, said, “Either sell the bike or ride it. But don’t just stare at it in the garage.” He added, “I tell you what, I’ll meet you exactly halfway, in Amarillo, Texas.” Brandon and I had been in a long-distance relationship for several years while in nursing school, which continued while I completed my first year working.

Three days later, I was on my motorcycle with panniers packed, hugging my parents in the summer heat as I was about to leave Chattanooga and meet Brandon in Texas. I rode white-knuckled out the gravel driveway, down the mountain to the valley, and then south to Alabama. This initial journey included 100-degree days in the sun, my first rainstorm while on the bike, and severe winds with tornado warnings while crossing Oklahoma into northern Texas.

Pulling into Amarillo three days later, Brandon greeted me

with a bottle of chilled champagne and a big smile, saying, “You did it, honey. Your first long-distance adventure on your motorcycle. I knew you could.”

I was thrilled and relieved to have finally arrived. I was also excited to have a travel partner for the next leg of the journey. From Amarillo, we rode 3,000 miles together, including riding up the California and Oregon coastline, before returning to Boise three weeks later.

This was the beginning of my understanding of my motorcycle, my abilities while on it, my fears, and my enjoyment of it all, even when it can be difficult. Since that ride, I’ve taken some incredible off-road motorcycle courses, which have boosted my confidence in riding various terrain while also bringing a community of other female BMW riders into my riding sphere. Without question, having their support, encouragement and inspiration has been a continued resource for me as I advance my riding skills and dreams.

This brings me back to the adventure at hand. The dream that had been postponed previously because of life’s timing, finances, jobs, family needs, and the pandemic was finally more realistic. Riding the length of the Americas, and possibly beyond, is about to begin.

After deciding that 2023 was the year for this adventure, the to-do list began. Moving forward, Brandon and I gave ourselves a six-month window to tie up loose ends in order to take an undetermined amount of time to travel an undefined distance and explore a changing list of countries around the world on the trip. Initially, our goal was to get to Ushuaia, Argentina, within about a year of our departure. Our goal wasn’t to ride completely around the world; instead, we chose to leave the adventure open to what it would be and to let the road decide what we would experience and where it would take us during this trip. Will it still be fun after six or eight months or a year? Will the timing still feel right for continuing past the Americas to Africa? Will we even get to Ushuaia? Where will the state of the world be in the next year or a few years? How will our commitments at home be woven into the fabric of this adventure?

With all these questions in mind, we wrapped up our lives and jobs in Boise, rented our home to a friend, and loaded both our R 1200 GS Adventures into the trailer behind our camper truck to begin the drive to Chattanooga, Tennessee, where we decided to start our journey to allow me to spend time with family and friends while making our final preparations for the trip. Our stop there also allowed us to take a two-day off-road motorcycle course at the BMW U.S. Rider Academy in Greer, South Carolina, to boost our riding skills while also preparing us for various unknown riding challenges ahead.

After a month in Chattanooga and whether we felt completely ready or not, we knew it was time to push off from home to begin the first leg to the Mexican border. The loose itinerary we had created gave us about a week to travel across the country and enjoy the U.S. while also serving as a bit of a shakedown ride for our gear and packing.

Hugging my parents in their driveway and saying goodbye was the biggest challenge for me, next to finally pushing off into the unknown of what this trip would be. With a heavily loaded motorcycle carrying all our gear and a few books to enjoy, we rode out of the driveway while my parents proudly filmed and

A rest stop outside an abandoned restaurant.

photographed the moment on their phones. With tears filling my eyes, I couldn’t look back and knew we were finally heading out together toward our goal.

Freely traveling across the United States by motorcycle is an absolute gift. No matter where we all call home, there is so much to see and explore within each state, let alone each region. Every time I ride my motorcycle, whether for a day, an overnight, or an extended trip, I become even more thankful for the opportunity and the ease of travel in America.

Leaving the thickly wooded mountains of east Tennessee, we watched the landscape change as we headed across Alabama toward Louisiana. The plateaus, with bands of rock jutting along the top, slowly became more rounded and smaller before turning into gently rolling hills covered in trees and vegetation. This gave way to the red clay of the South as we approached the flatlands of the Mississippi Delta, watching fields of cotton, corn and pine tree plantations pass. Filling up at a fuel station in western Mississippi, I was thrilled to see boiled peanuts cooking in a crock pot. Not knowing where I may see this southern treat again, I filled an extra container to stash in my tank bag for a snack further down the road.

Our bikes were performing flawlessly, even as heavily loaded as they were. In my mind, I was already anticipating sending a package back home of things we might not need. And thus began the constant ruminating about what to get rid of and at what point, as well as what we might need to purchase, which we may not have packed.

Crossing through Natchez, Mississippi, Brandon and I remembered the joy we felt a few years earlier when we had ridden the Natchez Trace Parkway. This is a 444-mile recreational road and scenic drive through three states, most of which is considered a national park. Like the Blue Ridge Parkway, which extends 469 miles through the Appalachians from Virginia to North Carolina, this protected scenic road is a dream ride for motorcyclists.

Riding into Louisiana, we found ourselves in a small hotel near Monroe, craving Cajun food before the landscape and opportunity changed again. After we unloaded a few items from the bikes, checked in with family to say we were safe, and added another layer for warmth, we rode to a restaurant the hotel staff recommended. Within a few minutes of our arrival, a heaping pile of crawfish, shrimp, corn and potatoes was set in front of us with the paper towel roll hanging on a coat hanger above the table. Our fingers and lips were hot with spice, and our eyes sparkled with joy and gratitude to experience such a variety of flavors as we crossed the country.

As we continued south toward Texas, we slowly learned how our motorcycles were becoming interesting curiosities to others. People often approached us with questions whenever we stopped for fuel, a rest break or at a hotel. Our bikes were loaded with bags and gear and a spare set of tires was strapped to Brandon’s bike, in case we needed them once we crossed the U.S. border into more remote areas. Sharing our dream and goal with others while realizing the unique opportunity we have to make this trip filled my heart with humble gratitude. Every person we met expressed excitement and interest about the trip, with many blessing us for our journey ahead.

After thunderstorms and wind pushed us north to avoid the line of red on the weather map, we left Louisiana, heading towards Austin, Texas, as the landscape changed again. Desert sage and scrub of the Texas hill country replaced the pine plantations. Knowing Austin was our last major city before we crossed the border into Mexico, we planned to spend a few days there running errands, finalizing paperwork and eating our fill of Texas barbecue.

One of these errands included picking up an additional spare key for each of our bikes at BMW Motorcycles of Austin. Once there, service department personnel met us with smiles and greeted us by name as they handed us the keys. The manager, Nick, welcomed us with a warm handshake and helped with a few other needed items, then walked with us to see our packed bikes, assuring us if there was anything we needed while on the trip, he was there to help.

We left Austin and headed to Big Bend National Park, hoping to enjoy a few beautiful nights in the desert. We were surprised to discover this park’s diversity, with a population of elk, bears, mountain lions and javelinas–a pig-like animal. Seeing mountains thickly covered with oak trees and pine slowly disappearing into the desert landscape was beautiful. This ecological diversity occurs from the changes in elevation from the dry, hot desert to the cool upper mountains, combined with the Rio Grande River valley below.

That night, we slept under the stars in the brisk air of Terlingua, Texas, with the darkest night sky in the country, while listening to the sounds of the desert and dreaming of what was to come. The Mexican border is next. Even though we have explored other parts of Mexico by motorcycle before, this adventure is different. We will be heading further away from home, away from what is familiar and yet closer to discovering what this complex, beautiful world offers.

On with the adventure.

Originally from Chattanooga, Tennessee, Katherine Becksvoort is a travel nurse based in Boise, Idaho. Before beginning her second career as an RN, she spent 14 years working as an outdoor educator throughout the United States, Canada and Alaska, leading backpacking, rock climbing and sea kayaking trips with teenagers. Having completed solo hikes of both the Appalachian Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail, Katherine bought her first motorcycle, a BMW 1200 GSA, in 2016. She is currently on her way to Ushuaia.

At the entrance to Big Bend National Park.

Only on a Bike

A few weeks ago, I had lunch with fellow MOA member Randy Crank, who told me a story I’d bet will resonate with many riders. Running down a deserted stretch of highway in northern Wisconsin, Randy said the sky to the southwest had taken on an ominous appearance. Ahead was a wall of what looked like rain under a ragged line of black and blue clouds. It looked so threatening Randy pulled into the first driveway he came to, leading up to a farmhouse and barn. As he approached the house, a man came running out, frantically motioning for him to drive his bike into the barn. “Tornado headed this way!” he yelled. Once the bike was stowed, the farmer led Randy into his cozy kitchen, where his wife plied him with hot cocoa and cake. Though they had never met before, they rode out the storm together, and Randy said, “I’ve never had a better slice of cake!”

The story got me to thinking about the kind of singular experiences motorcyclists have that never would have happened had they not been on two wheels. I polled a few of my colleagues here at Owners News to see what kind of “only on a motorcycle” stories they had…

Mark Barnes (“The Ride Inside”):

“Back in 2018, I went on a dual-sport tour of central Colorado with some friends who were all more skilled and daring than me. Among the many death-defying challenges my fearless compatriots found irresistible was a climb to the top of Mt. Antero, the tallest of the area’s famed over-14,000-foot peaks. The nearly impassable “road” up the mountainside was strewn with large boulders that required lots of momentum to ride up and over, but that momentum had to be halted immediately upon surmounting each obstacle or it would hurl bike and rider to a grisly end over the unshouldered edge of the sheer precipice waiting on the other side, often forming a hairpin turn for good measure. I don’t know how long this nightmarish ascent actually

lasted, but it felt like many hours and was easily the most terrifying experience of my entire life. The reward at the summit was a breathtaking vista impossible to capture in words, second only to my first view of the Grand Canyon, along with the satisfaction (only afterward!) of having done something so outrageous and lived to tell the tale. Not only would I have never had this experience if traveling by car, I would have never had it left to my own appetite for risk. Such a big part of motorcycling is our association with fellow riders (some of whom are crazy).”

what fascinating places my motorcycle takes me next!”

Jack Riepe (“Jack the Riepe”):

Jon

DelVecchio (“Street Skills,” Cornering Confidence):

“Early in my motorcycling life I got the bright idea to do an Iron Butt Association’s SaddleSore 1000 ride. I did this thousand-mile tour in under 24 hours on a 1995 Suzuki Savage 650 thumper with printed MapQuest directions and a duffle bag strapped to my seat. At the time, I had no idea how comfortably one could actually ride a motorcycle all those miles. Minimal creature comforts and stopping for gas every 90 miles sure made it challenging. I was so high on adrenaline that I could have succeeded on a pull-start mini bike. This was my first big adventure!

The feeling of solitude at 3 AM when I left my driveway on such a long solo journey was surreal. I experienced so many things that day, from a moonlit start near Lake Ontario, to Atlantic Ocean beaches, through the ghost town of Centralia, Pennsylvania, and returning once again to that warm place called ‘home.’”

Taking this motorcycle trip encouraged me to continue riding far and wide over the next 20 years. In those early days I rode alone, but now I more often do it with great riding buddies. At this point, I’ve forgotten more small towns than most people remember. It really is true that the destination isn’t the point when riding a motorcycle. It’s the journey along the way that matters. I can’t wait to see

“I was headed east on the New Jersey Turnpike one afternoon on my Kawasaki triple when a car with two beautiful young women pulled alongside. The blonde in the passenger seat turned to me and lifted her shirt, leaving nothing to the imagination. They sped off, laughing, and I never saw them again.” Jack insists that never would have happened if he hadn’t been on his “Widow Maker.” Incidentally, Jack assured me all his stories are true. He said if he ever told a story where he rode into a little town and picked up a young lady for a ride and nothing happened, that would be a lie.

Wes

Fleming

(“Torque of the Matter”):

“My ’78 Honda CB750 came up with a flat front tire in the middle of Wisconsin nowhere. I was alone because the friends I was travelling with in summer 1992 had no problem going across the Mackinac Bridge a second time, while I obviously wasn’t going to do that. I had a patch kit for the punctured tube, but it wasn’t just punctured, it was torn, and of course I didn’t discover this until I had the wheel off and the tire sitting in the dust next to me. The destroyed tube was my spare, and I’d neglected to get another, so I was kicking myself. A local in an old beat-up pickup truck drove past me, then pulled to the side. We discussed my troubles and he said he thought there was a ‘motosickle’ shop a couple towns up the road and he’d give me a ride if I liked. Of course I liked! He was a nice guy, didn’t talk much. The motorcycle shop was a Honda dealer, and they had tubes (I bought two) and even put my tube-tirewheel back together and filled it with air. The local commented it was getting late and I’d probably have trouble putting the wheel back on in the dark, so I might as well stay with his family and get a fresh start first thing in the morning. He spent

the rest of the rather pleasant evening throwing his 20-something daughter at me and telling me how easy it was for a ‘young fella’ to get a fresh start in that area. The young woman was about zero percent interested, but clearly had been through this before, so she was unfazed by the whole thing. He made her give me a ride back to my bike, which was unmolested right where I left it, including my tools lying in the dirt, in the hopes we’d spark a romance. She did ask me to give her a short ride on the bike, which I was happy to do after I got it all back together, and we wrote letters to each other (remember letters?) for a few years. She later joined the U.S. Navy and we lost touch. What I’ll never forget about that day was the ease with which the family accepted an outsider, and a young biker at that, and just treated me like a welcome drop-in guest for the time I was there.”

Do you have an “Only on a Bike” story? Send yours to ron.davis@bmwmoa.org along with your MOA member number, and I’ll try to feature it in a future column!

Ron Davis has been a rider, off and on, for about 40 years. Over that period, he’s also squeezed in a full time career teaching high school and university classes in writing, photography, and publishing while also working as a social media writer for the tourism industry in northwest Ontario and Associate Editor for BMW Owners News. His writing has been featured by BMW Owners News, BMW Motorcycle Magazine and The National Writing Project, and his essays, sometimes on motorcycling, can be heard regularly on Wisconsin Public Radio’s “Wisconsin Life.” His recently completed novel for young adults, Sachem Summer, is about love, trout fishing and a BMW R 50/2.

Your Ruined Tush

I confess that I had some fun with this column, and I invite you to join in. Back in the day, when I told somebody I was thinking about getting a BMW, they said to beware, BMW means “Bust My Wallet.” I soon learned that riding an RT meant riding a bike that led to a “Ruined Tush.”

Yes, I tried to come up with an appropriate LT but leave that to you! Feel free to send me your cheerful thoughts but you cannot use Lacerated or Laboring. I will assemble the pack of you who bother to opine should you be at the National Rally, and we can compare war stories over an adult beverage. But I digress and suddenly find myself in the BMW way-back machine.

A whole aftermarket industry has risen and thrived, focused on one subject: your “buttisimo.” I share your pain. Those of you who carry a bit more padding may not understand. But Mike Corbin sure does. If I say the magic words “Gunfighter Seat” or “Canyon Dual Sport” or “Canyon Tour,” you are transported back to the Golden Days when you would show up at a rally, and Lo and Behold, vendors were there to save our butts (and still are to this day). Corbin was, I believe, the first guy to stumble onto the fact that there was money to be made in seats. After Corbin built one for his bike, somebody saw it and wanted it. Then they asked him where he got it, and Mike was off to the races. Eventually, his seats were found at the National Rally.

Since the National Rally was likely your longest ride of the year, you arrived with an aching butt. Did you want to ride back home suffering even more? Of course not!

I will admit I am the perfect person to opine on the history of how vendors at the National Rally have attempted to make Butt Mechanics Work (See what I did there?) What is not funny is the fact that BMW has long been producing seats that too many U.S. riders cannot use to tour comfortably, whether single or two-up. BMW is not alone among motorcycle OEMs with this problem. But what to do? Let me walk you through the

Alice in Wonderland world of aftermarket tush toys.

My journey started when a neurologist told me I had to stop riding or I would soon be dropping coffee cups for the rest of my life. I was doing that and losing feeling in my hands. Since I was maybe 30 years old, this did not go over well. He asked me what I was doing that was messing up the nerves starting at the elbow down to my hands. I then described using clip-on bars, laying on a tall tank bag, then locking my arms and rolling, rolling and rolling for hours at a time. He was aghast. “You have to stop doing that,” he said, meaning I had to learn to sit up and put weight on my tush. That riding position was not just about weight on my tush, but also about my slouch and my helmet head thrust torquing my neck and the arm reach distance to the bars. What the hell?

Back in the day, one could deal with a host of these issues not just by installing bar backs but by using bars shaped to your liking. The classic test was to sit comfortably and reach forward to find where hands met the bars. I started loading a bag and putting it behind me as a backrest. But coming up and back off my hands and tank bag caused me to figure out how to remove tension from the back while I added weight to the butt as my weight shifted backward and downwards. I was now unhappy, but at least not destroying myself. That came later, but I digress.

So now I had to move from my faux RS bike…a /7 wannabe with a Don Vesco Rabid Transit Fairing and low clip-on level bars…and move on to something else. That something else turned out to be a K Bike. All you had to do was change the oil when you mounted new tires and put gas in a custom-made Randof eightgallon tank. Here in no particular order, were the seat options you would encounter at the National Rally.

Let’s start with an oldie but a goodie–sheepskin. Believe it or not, plush long hair in various colors and sheepskin was

all the rage, even for car seats, and is still around. I’ll not comment on the stuff, but it is safe to say that anything allowing a bit of spread to your spread so that pressure points diminished helped somebody somewhat, along with a bit of airflow for cooling. Of course, then there was rain.

Next, my long-time favorite: beads. I had those for a time ON TOP of a sheer black sheep skin pelt. Tre Chic as the beads were unique and also black. But this started with cab drivers who relied on them to keep their seat cooler as I guess they got some airflow, and soon enough, somebody showed up with beaded seat pads for your bike seat.

I had a wider car set of beads and cut the back and seat apart. Because mine were strapped to a somewhat compliant sheepskin, I now realize they also conformed a bit to my tush, so that weight was distributed over more points of contact. I’ve never seen anything like them again as they were black and the beads were small. The normal car-sized ones were like sitting on marbles and did not look comfortable.

Air pads came along eventually, but before Air Hawk arrived, you could get a plastic pad with chambers you could fill with water. (Water-fillable seat pads are still available.) But Air Hawk took a concept originating in the world of wheelchairs and adapted it to motorcycle seat pads. And that set off competitors and the adaptation of OTHER wheelchair seating concepts into the world of motorcycling, most notably various types of foams, including “foams” like that “purple” foam mattress advertisement. That particular product is like an egg crate of structures that collapse under your butt.

Regarding “butt pads,” you had your choice of foam covered in sheepskin, foam with a cut out for your various parts, and compressible foam of various mattress types that “conformed” to your tush.

Let us return to seats and the most expensive option. There has been much discussion about whether you get your money’s worth with an aftermarket seat, and with this option, you face some serious decisions. First, leather or not. You could

have both leather where your tush meets the saddle (supposedly more cooling) and vinyl on the side panels. If you had leather, you best get some leather conditioner to protect it, which led me to find out what the horse folks with real saddles used. I did not buy the bike folks’ saddle cream and wondered if your leather seat would age and develop its own unique character, as they claimed, “just like a leather jacket.” Tre Cool.

There was, of course, competition over foam. Style is one thing, and performance is another. Corbin had an interesting schtick that I am not knocking or challenging but simply pointing out that it met the marketing challenge of the day: “Over time, Corbin’s foam will break in and take on your shape for a personalized fit.” And who does not want that!!

Eventually, I saw that the Iron Butt folks were gravitating to Russell seats, known for their bucket shape. Not cheap. I

ordered one and have never looked back, but I know folks who are satisfied with many other brands and even pads.

While waiting for that seat, however, I stumbled on a product originating in the wheelchair world that filled in the gap until my seat arrived and cost hundreds less than the seat. I wondered if I really needed that seat and started to have buyers regret. That said, I so love my seat that when I totaled my bike in the Dakotas, I figured out a way to get the seat back, thanks to help from Raiders out that way. Still, I imagine there are still newbies and poverty riders out there. If a new seat is not in your budget, catch me at the rally, and I’ll spill the beans on what I bought before my seat arrived, as it just might also save your tush!

So get in touch before the National Rally with your thoughts about the meaning of LT. I feel for those now squirming as they ride. There was a time

when I too, could only get relief by “Levitating Tush.” See you down the road!

Dancin’ Dave Cwi is a Life Member of the MOA as well as a Premier Member of the Iron Butt Association. He’s owned every series of BMW motorcycle from the Slash 2 to the modern RT, and has burned out his wife, who once loved motorcycling but sold her bikes after two trips with Dave. He pays for his riding addiction via marketing stints, including work in powersports. You will see him down the road.

DAVID CWI #28490

Foolishness Squared

So-called “common sense” is, of course, not very common. Foolishness, on the other hand, is always, well, close at hand. What follows is an example from our beloved avocation, but we certainly have no monopoly. Lest anyone think I’m handing down a critique from some position of superiority, I admit to understanding this nonsense firsthand as one of its long-term practitioners. Yet even with full awareness of the multiple downsides involved, I still fall prey to a particular self-defeating mindset; call this “foolishness squared.”

Racing legend Kenny Roberts famously said regarding his (then) revolutionary approach to cornering, “You have to go slow to go fast.” He was referring to braking hard early, turning abruptly at a relatively low speed, then accelerating out of the curve sooner than his competitors, an advantage he’d carry all the way down the next straight. Hold that thought.

Another old adage is, “Going fast on a slow bike is more fun than going slow on a fast bike.” Who hasn’t giggled in their helmet while wringing the neck of a small-bore, flimsily suspended, simple/ cheap-to-repair motorcycle? Conversely, who hasn’t been terrified, or at least deeply humbled, by the shockingly abrupt responsiveness of a lavishly expensive ultra-high-performance machine? In the former situation, we feel a gleeful sense of power and mastery, not because of the bike’s strength, but because we’re able to push it to its limits without hesitation. In the latter situation, we’re cowed by the huge gulf between the motorcycle’s capabilities and our own; the limits are ours, not the machine’s, and it threatens to rocket us past those thresholds before we know it, so we tiptoe along gingerly. Contrary to uninformed assumptions, exotic pedigrees don’t make mundane tasks easier to perform.

Motorcycles tempt us to augment our sense of competence by annexing theirs. I can incorporate my bike’s strengths into my own identity and feel as though I possess them. This also works the other way around: I can experience shame about my motorcycle’s weaknesses, as though they reflect badly on me. Guess who’s most likely to reach for a sense of mastery they can buy, rather than one they’d have to earn—the impatient, incompetent, and/or ignorant neophyte. There’s a perverse tendency of weaker riders to own stronger motorcycles to compensate for their own inadequacy. You can insert a joke here about phallic insecurity, and this dynamic probably is more prevalent among male riders than females, but the same outcome occurs because of naivete, too.

The consequent rider/bike pairings create a bind. If I lack skill and I’m on a scary motorcycle, my fear will prevent me from learning to ride better. I will be too anxious about the costs—to my body, my wallet, or my image—to risk falling, yet falling is a normal, inevitable part of the learning process, especially early in the learning curve. Mistakes will—and must—be made on the way to legitimate mastery, and if the stakes are too high, progress won’t occur because mistakes are unaffordable. The best I can hope for is blind idealization from those who’ll see my glorious motorcycle and assume my capabilities are commensurate with those of my bike; I just need to ensure they never see me actually ride. People can maintain this type of fraudulence in many areas of their lives, hoping to evade tests that would expose the discrepancies between branding and reality. Some even buy into their own PR, equating the illusion they’ve created with who they are and losing track of what’s true.

Ideally, much moto-learning gets done with low stakes, on a small dirt bike moving slowly over soft earth with

adequate safety gear, good coaching and a balance of playfulness and sober concentration. There must be enough tension to fuel effort and reasonable caution, but not so much anxiety that attention gets splintered by distractions or funneled down to a single point of fear. I realize not everyone starts out this way, and I respect folks who begin riding as an adult on a grownup street bike. I also wonder what learning trajectory is possible for someone whose first motorcycle is a full-sized, modern engineering marvel. Can they risk falling? Can they “sneak up” on braking and cornering skills without crossing invisible lines, losing control and scaring themselves to death? Without the experience of reaching/exceeding limits, how will they know when such limits are approaching? Excellent instruction and extensive practice in controlled environments might allow much learning to take place sans catastrophe, but I doubt this is what most late bloomers actually get, or even realize is possible and necessary. While perhaps not driven by a need for phallic compensation, they still ride bikes that far exceed their skill levels. Such riders may remain uneasy forever, or be blissfully—and dangerously—ignorant of this disparity (a state that’s sure to be temporary).

Now, my confession: I began riding in early adolescence on a Honda Trail 70. Upon delivery, the van driver hastily pointed out all the controls and left. On my maiden voyage, I clumsily popped the clutch, stood the little machine on its rear tire, and ran behind it into the yard, narrowly missing my wide-eyed father. Other mishaps followed, too numerous to recall. I learned what I could in the school of (literally) hard knocks but managed to avoid serious injury and thought this meant I knew what I was doing. I bought a half-dozen more motorcycles, ever-larger and increasingly

street-oriented, before graduating from college and purchasing my first sportbike, Kawasaki’s original 900 Ninja. I chose the Ninja after poring over magazine articles on a quest to find the most impressive, most powerful, best handling machine available. I (like too many other motorcyclists) thought performance resided in the machine when it’s really a function of rider skill. I’ve since met many good riders who’d have lapped me and that Ninja on a Briggs & Stratton minibike at a track day.

I’d never received any rider training (I didn’t even know there was such a thing) and lived in central Florida at the time, where there were neither hills nor curves. I was eyeball-deep in a world of fantasy and ignorance, but I certainly found the Ninja’s acceleration on empty rural roads exhilarating (anyone can twist a throttle and go fast in a straight line). I basked in the glow of its theoretical sporting prowess and couldn’t imagine going back to something tamer.

When I moved to the foothills of Tennessee’s Great Smoky Mountains, where there were neither flat roads nor straight ones, I hadn’t the slightest idea how to ride on sinewy mountain tarmac, much less exploit the capabilities of what was at that time considered a fire-breathing beast of a motorcycle. I just loved the way the Ninja looked, its technology, and knowing it was superlative hardware. I immediately traded up to its next two successors, the Ninja 1000R and ZX-10 for those same reasons. I got used to riding in the mountains alone, since I knew no other motorcyclists during this era. I enjoyed the scenery, but still had no clue about proper technique or how clueless I really was. It was many years later, when I finally joined a group of accomplished riders, that it dawned on me I was grossly deficient, despite having owned several more cutting-edge, big-bore sportbikes along the way. These companions

tutored me on cornering, took me to my first track day, and started me down the road to actually learning how to ride— when I’d already been a motorcycle owner for 20 years.

I eventually realized my liter-bikes were holding me back instead of bolstering my proficiency; managing them was simply too far beyond my abilities. I spent time on borrowed bikes, a Honda 650 Hawk GT and Ducati 750SS, both of which were primitive tools compared to what I’d owned, yet I was instantly faster and had more fun on them. I swallowed my pride and dropped down to a Honda CBR600F4, a machine that even today would exceed my personal performance envelope, but at least it reduced the intimidation factor enough for me to learn more easily. I began taking formal rider education, including the MSF’s basic and advanced courses, a variety of track-based schools, and the on-road training of Larry Grodsky’s Stayin’ Safe tour. I read skill-related books like Keith Code’s A Twist of the Wrist and many others, and watched what videos (on VHS back then) I could find. These were all revelations to me, despite my many years of “experience.”

It turns out King Kenny’s quote applies

to more than just racetrack cornering strategy. In order to go fast on a big bike, it’s probably necessary to first go slow on a small bike. I learned to drag my knee at Willow Springs Raceway, not on the hardcore superbike I’d ridden timidly around the track, but on a tiny pit bike in the paddock. I’m still not “fast” on any bike, but I’m much more competent than I was on that first Ninja. Lots of dirt riding alongside my street journey helped, too, allowing me to fall countless times without prohibitively awful consequences. My initial dirt bike experiences in flat, sandy Florida did nothing to prepare me for the steep, rocky, muddy, root-infested, tortuously tight trails I encountered in the Appalachian mountains; I had to start over from scratch.

In my off-roading, too, I tended to buy apex predator machinery that actually made learning harder instead of easier. Again, I had to get this lesson hammered into my head repeatedly: proficiency isn’t in the motorcycle, it’s in the motorcyclist! I’d get smoked by halfway decent riders on vastly “inferior” bikes while struggling with the frightening ferocity of my own. The dirt bike I was actually fastest on and enjoyed the most had the least horsepower and simplest suspension; too bad

it was second in a long series. As was true on the street, I kept going slower and slower on faster and faster motorcycles. That’s serious foolishness. I did develop some skills, but I made this process far more difficult and inefficient with my bike choices. I’d have done worlds better to put all that bike purchase money toward more riding classes.

For tech geeks like me, it’s always tempting to chase down the latest, greatest motorcycles and forget what truly makes riding fun, and what makes a rider both fast and safe. Authentic skill development, through solid instruction and lots of practice, is what really counts. Since my (semi-) enlightenment, I’ve often kept a smaller bike handy to allow me to work on technique more readily than I can on the brawny top-tier machines I still find irresistible. During the first half of my five-decade tenure as a motorcyclist, I was simply ignorant about all this. The second half, however, has been a mixture of knowing better and foolishly making some choices as though I didn’t. Long ago I learned I can’t fool a good motorcyclist solely by what bike I own, but it’s harder to break the habit of fooling myself.

Mark Barnes is a clinical psychologist and motojournalist. To read more of his writings, check out his book Why We Ride: A Psychologist Explains the Motorcyclist’s Mind and the Love Affair Between Rider, Bike and Road, currently available in paperback through Amazon and other retailers.

Also check out Mark’s podcast version of The Ride Inside, with essays and interviews, available through your favorite podcast app or online at BMWOwnersNews.com.

My first, and in many ways my very best, track day on a Honda Hawk GT at Talladega Gran Prix Raceway, a tiny 10-turn, 1.3 mile track in Munford, Alabama. With the least horsepower of any motorcycle I ever rode on a racetrack, I had the rubber balling up and rubbing off the tread shoulder–a feat I never repeated.

Sport Touring Tires

Tires are in a unique position for motorcyclists. We need to get the most out of them, both in performance and in longevity, but we want them to cost as little as possible. Balancing cost vs. performance/longevity can be difficult when you’re putting in long days in the saddle on your touring or sport-touring motorcycle during rally season, but this list may help you start researching your possibilities, whether your budget is large or small. (Average cost listed is based on online prices for tires only without installation, taxes or shop fees. Prices at your nearest dealer may vary.)

Michelin Road 6/6 GT

Average cost (set): $497.85 (6), $539.79 (6 GT)

michelinman.com/motorcycle

Michelin’s newest generation of its popular Road series is the 6/6 GT; GT represents the inclusion of an additional ply to better suit the biggest sport-touring bikes out there like the K 1600 GT/GTL. Road series tires are known to have some of the longest lifespans around, and Michelin says the 6s provide better cornering stability and wet grip. All Road 6 and 6 GT tires are Z-rated. Made in Spain and Thailand.

Front sizes: 6 only—110/70-17, 120/60-17, 120/70-18, 110/80-19, 120/70-19; GT only—120/70-17

Rear sizes: 6 only—140/70-17, 150/60-17, 160/60-17, 170/60-17; 6 and 6 GT—180/55-17, 190/50-17, 190/55-17

Michelin Pilot Street Radial

Average cost (set): $304.24

michelinman.com/motorcycle

Not everybody looking for tires sporting long life, highway comfort and wetweather stability is on a 600-plus-pound bike! Michelin is looking out for folks touring on smaller rides with the Pilot Street Radial’s 100% silica rubber compound, which they say provides increased longevity and excellent wet-weather grip. These are the stock tires on the G 310 R. Some Pilot Street Radials are Z-rated. Made in Spain and Thailand.

Front sizes: 110/70-17, 120/70-17

Rear sizes: 130/70-17, 140/70-17, 150/60-17, 180/55-17

This is by no means an exhaustive list, and excellent sport-touring tires from Pirelli, Metzeler , Continentaland others are out there as well— not to mention sport-touring tires for many adventure bike wheel sizes! Don’t forget to protect your tire investment with the MOA’s Platinum Roadside plan, which permits up to two tire replacements per year as part of the plan.

Dunlop Sportmax Roadsmart 3

Average cost (set): $347.28

dunlopmotorcycletires.com

Dunlop says their SR3 tires offer “ultra-high mileage” but still offer grip found on sport tires. Their “Multi-Tread” compound is doing the work here, combining a high-mileage compound in the center of the tire and a high-adhesion compound on the sides. Most SR3 tires are Z-rated, and sizes for adventure bikes are also available. Made in the USA.

Front sizes: 120/60-17, 120/70-17, 110/80-18, 120/70-18, 110/80-19, 120/70-19

Rear sizes: 150/70-17, 160/60-17, 160/70-17, 170/60-17, 180/55-17, 190/50-17, 190/55-17

Dunlop Mutant

Average cost (set): $346.37

dunlopmotorcycletires.com

If you’re looking for more off-road capability in a road-biased Dunlop tire than the SR3 is likely to provide, check out the new Mutants, which use the same Multi-Tread technology but add jointless belt construction to smooth out the ride on less than desirable terrains. An aggressive tread pattern adds better grip off-pavement without compromising the tires’ longevity. All Mutants are Z-rated. Made in the USA.

Front sizes: 110/70-17, 120/70-17, 110/80-18, 120/70-19

Rear sizes: 150/60-17, 160/60-17, 170/60-17, 180/55-17, 190/55-17

Shinko 016 Verge 2X

Average cost (set): $293.90

shinkotireusa.com

Shinko tires are often the choice for budget-restricted purchases, but that doesn’t mean they’re cheaply constructed. They sport similar dual-compound technology to many of their more expensive competitors, and Shinko claims “superior traction” and mileage no matter the riding conditions. All Verge 2X tires are Z-rated. Made in South Korea.

Front sizes: 120/60-17, 120/70-17

Rear sizes: 160/60-17, 180/55-17, 190/50-17, 190/55-17, 200/50-17

Bridgestone Battleax T32

Average cost (set): $366.96

bridgestonemotorcycletires.com

The T32 replaces the T31, and Bridgestone claims its silica-rich front tires have the best grip not just in wet weather, but in cold conditions as well. They match up with a rear sporting more grippy silica than even their most silica-rich tires, providing high traction and reliability on both ends of the motorcycle. Most T32s are Z-rated. Made in Japan. Front sizes: 110/70-17, 120/60-17, 120/70-17, 110/80-18, 120/70-18, 110/80-19, 120/70-19

Rear sizes: 150/70-17, 160/60-17, 170/60-17, 180/55-17, 190/50-17, 190/55-17, 160/60-18

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MOTOMO RALLY 2023 Crane, Missouri kronie12@gmail.com

6/24/2023 – 6/25/2023

CAMPOUT AT UNCLE TOMS CABIN Pollock Pines, California tourcaptain@bmwnorcal.org

7/13/2023 – 7/16/2023

CASCADE COUNTRY RENDEZVOUS Cashmere, Washington rallymaster@wsbmwr.org

7/20/2023 – 7/23/2023

TOP O’ THE ROCKIES RALLY Paonia, Colorado topotherockies@bmwmcc.org

7/28/2023 – 7/30/2023

CAMPOUT AT BEAR RIVER Colfax, California tourcaptain@bmwnorcal.org

8/4/2023 – 8/7/2023

INTERNATIONAL ROLLING BROCOLLI Vassar, Michigan

J. J. Dostal 810-624-5987

For complete details on any event listed, please visit bmwmoa.org and click on the Rallies & Events tab

NEW DESIGNS EACH MONTH!

Every milestone needs a commemorative t-shirt. But something as meaningful as 50 years demands more than just one! We’re celebrating every month with a new design worthy of the 50th Anniversary of the MOA. Grab one shirt or the entire series and show your MOA pride.

50th Anniversary shirts will be available in limited quantities online each month or pre-order the entire series at a discount to guarantee you get yours!

It all happens June 10th, 2023. The Day of Charity begins with a light breakfast at participating dealerships and at the MOA National Rally. Riders will then select a locally sponsored charity and join a guided ride on a fun route to visit that organization. There, participants will enjoy a hands-on and sometimes immersive experience in the work of the charity. This unusual approach provides the opportunity to develop deeper connections, and perhaps longer-term bonds with the charity, its work, and its people. Then it’s time for more riding, eats, and festivities as the Day of Charity wraps up at a designated location for more fun and socializing.

VISIT WWW.RIDEITFORWARD.ORG

• Register with a participating dealership or at the BMW MOA 50th National Rally

• Ride with fellow enthusiasts

• Learn about a local charitable organization through a hands-on experience, help to bring needed resources and bring healing through your support of the charity’s mission.

SAVE THE DATE JUNE 10, 2023 RIDE IT FORWARD DAY OF CHARITY FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT RIDEITFORWARD.ORG

8/11/2023 – 8/12/2023

30TH BLUE BUTT RALLY Virginia City, Nevada bluebuttrally@gmail.com

8/17/2023 – 8/19/2023

MIKE MCPEAK MEMORIAL RALY Village of Nakusp, British Columbia milkemcpeakrally@hotmail.com

8/17/2023 – 8/19/2023

25TH ANNUAL BEARTOOTH BEEMERS RENDEZVOUS Red Lodge, Montana registrar@beartoothbeemers.org

8/17/2023 – 8/20/2023

57TH ANNUAL 4WINDS BMW RALLY Fairmont City, Pennsylvania jmarnell@mac.com

8/19/2023 – 8/20/2023

MS RIVER ROAD RUN Monticello, Minnesota lee@hamlineconstruction.com

8/25/2023 – 8/27/2023

9TH HOPEWELL ROAD RALLY Athens, Ohio samrbooth@yahoo.com

8/26/2023 to 8/27/2023

CAMPOUT AT BADGER FLATS Lakeshore, California tourcaptain@bmwnorcal.org

9/1/2023 to 9/4/2023

RANGE OF LIGHT GYPSY TOUR Colusa, California tourcaptain@bmwnorcal.org

9/8/2023 – 9/10/2023

52ND ANNUAL WISCONSIN DELLS RALLY Wisconsin Dells, Wisconsin barnrazer@yahoo.com

9/8/2023 – 9/10/2023

KENTUCKY STATE BMW RALLY Pineville, Kentucky prorepoms@aol.com

9/21/2023 – 9/24/2023

2023 PURE STODGE IOWA RALLY Elkader, Iowa pstarally@gmail.com

9/21/2023 – 9/24/2023

3RD ANNUAL LAUREL HIGHLANDS WEEKEND SPONSORED BY THE BMW MOA Somerset, Pennsylvania gsjay@kaplitz.com

9/22/2023 – 9/24/2023

19TH THUNDER MOUNTAIN RENDEZVOUS Hotchkiss, Colorado aesurvey@aol.com

9/22/2023 – 9/24/2023

36TH ANNUAL HOOSIER BEEMER RALLY North Vernon, Indiana k12lts@gmail.com

9/29/2023 – 10/1/2023

“BACK TO JAMAICA” CAMPOUT Jamaica, Vermont kz1000@hotmail.com

9/29/2023 – 10/1/2023

41ST ANNUAL LAST CHANCE RALLY Wading River, New Jersey pjliskojr@gmail.com

9/29/2023 – 10/1/2023

CENTRAL OKLAHOMA BMW ROAD RIDERS ANNUAL CAMPOUT Talihina, Oklahoma tburull@hotmail.com

10/8/2023 – 10/22/2023

BMW MOA & IMTBIKE CELEBRATION TOUR OF SPAIN Madrid, Spain tours@imtbike.com

10/13/2023 – 10/15/2023

48TH FALLING LEAF RALLY Steelville, Missouri rally-coordinator@gatewayriders.com

10/28/2023 – 10/29/2023

OCTOBERFEST Manchaster, California tourcaptain@bmwnorcal.org

11/3/2023 – 11/5/2023

53RD SOUTH-CENTRAL BMW OWNERS REUNION Fayetteville, Texas

vp@bmwclubofhouston.com

For complete details on any event listed, please visit bmwmoa.org and click on the Rallies & Events tab

EDITORIAL

Managing Editor BILL WIEGAND | bill@bmwmoa.org

Art Director KARIN HALKER | karin@bmwmoa.org

Digital Media Editor WES FLEMING | wes@bmwmoa.org

Associate Editor RON DAVIS

A ssociate Editor JOSE ABILES

CONTRIBUTORS

David Gamari, Terry South, Matt Munn, Michael Williamson, Chuck Pryor, Graham Kier, Jean Cordalis, David Marrier, BMW Motorrad, Joe Dawson, Lee Harrelson, Susanna Parkhouse, Roger Trendowski, Lee Deyoung, Wes Fleming, Mark Barnes, Randy Crank, Matt Parkhouse, Scott Lindroth, Bill Snead, Matt Wank, Dustin Silvey, Katherine Becksvoort, Ron Davis, David Cwi, and Mark Howson.

SALES & MARKETING

MEMBER SERVICES

Advertising Director CHRIS HUGHES | chris@bmwmoa.org

Business Development Director CHAD WARNER | chad@bmwmoa.org

Executive Director TED MOYER | ted@bmwmoa.org

Membership Associate TONYA MCMEANS | tonya@bmwmoa.org

Digital Marketing Manager RAY TUBBS | ray@bmwmoa.org

Membership Manager PAULA FITZER | paula.fitzer@bmwmoa.org

Chief Operating Officer BECKY SMITH | becky.smith@bmwmoa.org

MEMBERSHIP

BMW MOA Headquarters

2350 Hwy. 101 South, Greer, SC 29651 (864) 438-0962

Membership in the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America is open to all riders, regardless of brand affiliation. Although we are united by the BMW marque, adventure-minded motorcyclists will find a home here. Join today by visiting bmwmoa.org or call one of our friendly membership associates at 864-438-0962.

For a complete listing of membership options, please visit bmwmoa. org or call 864-438-0962.

BMWMOA.ORG

BMW ON (ISSN:1080-5729) (USPS: 735-590) (BMW Owners News) is published monthly by BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Inc., 2350 Hwy 101 South, Greer, SC 29651. Periodicals postage paid at Pewaukee, Wisconsin and additional mailing offices. Opinions and positions stated in materials/articles herein are those of the authors and not by the fact of publication necessarily those of BMW MOA; publication of advertising material is not an endorsement by BMW MOA of the advertised product or service. The material is presented as information for the reader. BMW MOA does not perform independent research on submitted articles or advertising.

POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO BMW ON, 2350 Hwy 101 South, Greer, SC 29651 ©2023 by BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Inc. All information furnished herein is provided by and for the members of BMW Motorcycle Owners of America, Inc. Unless otherwise stated, none of the information (including technical material) printed herein necessarily bears endorsement or approval by BMW MOA, BMW NA, the factory or the editors. The editors and publisher cannot be held liable for its accuracy. Printed in the USA. Volume 53, Number 5

Snow Fun

For many years, I’ve participated in the MOA Mileage Contest. Looks like I’ll have to wait a bit before hitting adding miles to my R 100 R

Photo by Mark Howson #37273

NEW Lifestyle Collection

Don’t miss your chance to try on the new MOA Lifestyle Collection at the 50th National Rally!

In our continuing efforts to bring innovative products and services to our membership, the MOA is excited to offer The Lifestyle Collection. For the first time, the MOA and Klim are offering co-branded apparel. Klim is the global leader in designing, developing and manufacturing, the most advanced technical riding gear and motor sports apparel for motorcycle riders.