Bold Drive: Great Canadian Road Trips - Special Edition
15 Canada From Coast To Coast with more than 1 million kilometres of public roads, it’s the perfect destination for a drive – for majestic nature, cultural attractions and epicurean delights
26 Places To Stay: Hotel Julie – An Ontario Weekend Escape
Situated in picturesque Stratford, the recently opened Hotel Julie is creating quite a stir – this Shakespeare-inspired boutique hotel is nothing short of breathtaking, inside and out
28 Style: What To Pack – Road Trip Edition Essential wardrobe picks and grooming products to take along
32 California’s Desert Eye Opener Indigenous insight, geological adventure and pioneering people in Coachella Valley prove there’s a lot of heritage heft under all that hot water in historic Palm Springs
36 East Coast Epic A Gaspe Peninsula journey to Land’s End
42 A Greek Romance How a road trip through an ancient land is the catalyst to rekindling a spiritual passion – for travel and for love
46 Postcard From… The Great Spirit Circle Trail
ON THE COVER
Pointe-au-Père lighthouse, in Pointe-au-Père
Maritime Historic Site
Photography: Mathieu Dupuis/Le Québec maritime
BOLD DRIVE
SUMMER EDITION 2024
EDITOR IN CHIEF
Vivian Vassos
SENIOR CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
Vawn Himmelsbach
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Liz Fleming, Ruth J. Katz
Brittany Johnson, Aaron Rasmussen
ART DIRECTION AND DESIGN
Megan Cronje
CONTRIBUTORS: PRINT + DIGITAL
Jennifer Bain, Jim Byers, Martha Chapman, Loren Christie, Anita Draycott, Meagan Drillinger, Alison McGill, Jennifer Merrick, Darcy Rhyno, Dick Snyder, Michele Sponagle, Doug Wallace, Jennifer Weatherhead
PUBLISHER + CEO
Marlon Moreno
VICE PRESIDENT + ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER
Catalina Gordon
DIRECTOR OF PUBLIC RELATIONS
Rebecca Marissa Cohen
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Jamid Sepúlveda
WEB DEVELOPER
Komodo Innovations Inc. info@komodoinnovations.com
Rahul Nair
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BOLD Driver® is published by Moreno + Company. Opinions expressed in Bold Drive® are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher or advertisers. BOLD Drive® does not assume liability for content. The publisher accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other material. Printed in Canada by Solisco.
Photos: Visit Greater Palm Springs (Cabot's Pueblo Museum); Omega; Makedonia Hotel (Lobby); Marc Loiselle/Le Québec Maritime
(The Frederick-James Village); Mark Perez (Hotel Julie); Christian Dior.
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is an open road
NE OF MANY THINGS that I love about Canada, is the very wellnoted change in seasons. My favourite, without doubt, is summer. It’s the time of the year when cities all across the country come alive. There is so much to do during the summer – whether that means road tripping, heading to a cottage or cabin, attending the countless food, music and art festivals that take place in our cities or simply having a delish cocktail by the pool and soaking in some of the best summer tunes ever made – summertime means finding the perfect time to explore the world carefree.
But also, the summer season has a very special meaning for me. You see, as the school year came to an end when I was much younger, the notion of summer camps were not on our radar – primarily because we were four children with a wide range of interests – which would have meant four different summer camps and, secondly, because although my parents were hard-working people, it would have put a little dent in their well-balanced cheque books.
Instead, as a family, we opted for something simpler yet as rewarding. We’d pack our bags, overload our 1992 Dodge Caravan with three Coleman coolers with enough food to feed an entire battalion, blankets, mosquito repellant, pillows, camping tents and, yep, there was the annual ritual to make a quick stop at a gas station to buy a map –there was no GPS system back in that day.
What made those trips super special was that once we were all piled into the minivan and ready to go, we would pick the destination – as Dad pulled out of the driveway – while my younger brother figured out the best route and my baby sisters put into practice their knowledge of geography; Mom and I planned the meals and the number of stops along the road.
I am forever grateful that my parents skipped the camps and that we inherited something so enriching and equally valuable: a sense of adventure and discovery.
It’s in that spirit of discovery and freedom that the summer brings that we’ve devoted this special issue to discover places with natural beauty that allows us to kick up our heels and just be free.
Like Tom Cochrane said, “Life is a Highway.”
Wherever the road of life takes you, never stop exploring. Wishing you a safe and beautiful summer,
For this issue, we asked our wily wanderers for their most incredible road trip experience
BRITTANY JOHNSON
Hotel Julie, A love letter to Stratford, p26
My most memorable road trip was a glamping birthday trip to Ithaca, that took my husband and I through the Finger Lakes. The fall colours were so vivid and bright, and every stop along the way - a cheese shop, a cider brewery, wineries, a rustic outdoor pizza spot –everything was magical that fall. @britlynne
DOUG WALLACE
Desert Eye Opener, p32
A drive through Andalusia in the south of Spain was a real treat in so many ways – the food and the scenery and the people. Each city was more beautiful and more romantic than the last – Córdoba, Seville, Cádiz, Ronda. And there is a White Villages route that is absolutely breathtaking @travelrighttoday
JAMES ROSS
East Coast Epic, p36
Unexpected discoveries are the joy of a great road trip. I complained ‘lame’ as my wife pulled into an aquarium on our Gaspé drive – but when an aquarium naturalist had us in waders splashing around tidal pools observing trapped sea creatures, the stop became a fascinating trip highlight. @thejamesross
CEO + Publisher
ROD CHARLES
Greek Romance Revival, p42
After a week in Thessaloniki my wife and I rented a vehicle for a 'spiritual adventure' to Meteora, famous for its sky-high monasteries and jaw-dropping views. It was my first time driving in Europe. We held hands, drove through mountain tunnels and savoured the beauty of Greece along the way.
@rodalcharles
Photo:
ON OUR RADAR
Pacific Rim National Park, near Tofino
Photo: Destination British Columbia (Pacific Rim National Park)
From Coast to Coast
7 EPIC CANADIAN ROAD TRIPS
Our senior contributing editor Vawn Himmelsbach goes on tour to give you the most inspiring and ultimate road trips across Canada
cANADA IS THE WORLD’S second-largest country, spanning 9.9 million square kilometres and bordering three oceans. It’s home to diverse landscapes, from lush forests, rolling plains and snow-capped mountains, to Arctic tundra, rugged coastline and more lakes than any other country on the planet. And, with more than 1 million kilometres of public roads, it’s the perfect destination for a road trip – whether you’re looking to immerse yourself in majestic nature, cultural attractions or epicurean delights. Here, in no particular order, are 7 of our favourite epic Canadian road trips.
1
Vancouver Island
WHILE IT WOULD take seven hours to drive the length of the island, one of Vancouver Island’s most scenic routes is from Nanaimo to Tofino along Highway 4 – otherwise known as the Pacific Rim Highway. The route winds through temperate rainforests and rugged mountains before reaching the stormswept coastline of Pacific Rim National Park. Don’t miss a stop at Cathedral Grove, where you can walk among towering ancient Douglas fir trees, some of which are around 800 years old. In Tofino, Canada’s surfing capital, experience “rustic luxury on nature’s edge” at the Relais & Chateaux Wickaninnish Inn and go whalewatching on a floatplane tour of Clayoquot Sound. You can rent a car in Victoria; or, from Vancouver, drive to Horseshoe Bay and catch the ferry to Nanaimo.
2
Eastern Townships, Quebec
NOT FAR FROM MONTREAL, you’ll find yourself driving through rolling countryside and historic villages, past farms, orchards, vineyards, lakes and mountains. In fact, there are three scenic routes to choose from – the Townships Trail, the Summit Drive and the Wine Route – each with dozens of cultural attractions and epicurean stops along the way. While the options are endless, a few highlights include visiting the abbey and sampling award-winning cheese at Saint-Benoit-du-Lac, a monastery erected by Benedictines from France in 1912. Or stopping for a picnic in the lavender fields at Bleu Lavande – or experience it virtually with the immersive Chromatic Fields installation by Moment Factory. Don’t miss North Hatley, a village on the shores of Lake Massawippi, where century-old Victorian homes are now inns, B&Bs and restaurants, along with boutiques, art galleries and antique shops. Rest your head at the nearby Relais & Chateaux Manoir Hovey, a historic lakeside getaway.
Dempster Highway, Yukon
THIS CLASSIC ROAD TRIP takes you far off the beaten path – so far, in fact, that you’ll exchange traffic jams for wildlife crossings. At 740 kilometres in length, this all-season road – most of it gravel – crosses the Arctic Circle, so you’ll need a rugged vehicle for this trip (and a spare tire or two). But you’ll also traverse some of the most beautiful scenery on the planet, from stark tundra to rugged snow-capped peaks. Start near Dawson City in northern B.C., then head north to Inuvik in the Northwest Territories. Along the way, stop for a visit at Tombstone Territorial Park in the Yukon, home to the Tr’ondëk Hwëch. Keep driving, and you’ll find yourself at 66° 33’N – aka the Arctic Circle – with views of the Richardson mountains. The end of the road is Inuvik, where you can visit the Inuvialuit Cultural Centre, the Aurora Research Institute and even an Igloo Church.
Prince Edward Island
ONCE YOU PICK UP your rental car from the Charlottetown airport, the island is your oyster. While there’s no shortage of scenic vistas here – like red-sand beaches, rolling countryside and storybook villages – P.E.I. is also a foodie’s paradise, known for its world-class shellfish. In Charlottetown, learn how to shuck a scallop at the Culinary Institute of Canada, then drive to New Glasgow, where you can partake in a classic lobster supper with all the fixings. From there, head to New London and take a chef-led class at The Table, a culinary studio set in a renovated church. Or, stay for The Chef’s Table, a seven-course culinary experience featuring fresh island seafood, foraged foods and hyper-local produce. Finally, make your way to Malpeque Bay where you can sample the world’s best oysters.
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The Viking Trail, Newfoundland
ON NEWFOUNDLAND’S NORTHERN
PENINSULA is the Viking Trail, a 489-kilometre route that features majestic nature, lively culture and, of course, Vikings. The trail starts near Deer Lake on Highway 430 (there’s an airport there, or you can take the six-hour ferry from North Sydney in Nova Scotia and drive three hours to Deer Lake). From there, it winds its way through Gros Morne National Park, an ancient landscape of mountains, fjords and beaches formed by colliding continents; it’s also a UNESCO World Heritage site (and worth an extended stay). The trail then takes you to L’anse aux Meadows National Historic Site – also a UNESCO site – home to the only known Viking settlement in North America. The archeological site, which offers a glimpse into Viking life, dates back to the year 1000. Stay the night in St. Anthony, known for whalewatching and icebergs, where you can soak up Newfoundland’s famous hospitality.
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Alberta Badlands
THERE’S SOMETHING RATHER MAGICAL about driving through landscapes where dinosaurs once roamed. In the Badlands, there’s no shortage of road trips to choose from – the area is spread out over 90,000 square kilometres. But whichever route you choose, you’ll drive past rolling grasslands, sandstone canyons and fields of hoodoos (sandstone formations that take millions of years to form). In Drumheller, visit the Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, home to the largest collection of dinosaur skeletons in the world. Nearby is Horseshoe Canyon and Horse Thief Canyon, both of which offer sunset views over the Badlands. Then, on the drive from Drumheller to Dinosaur Provincial Park – a UNESCO World Heritage site – pull over to visit the Atlas Coal Mine National Historic Site, where you can ride a 90-year-old narrow-gauge train. Pull over again for the Hoodoo Trail, where you can stretch your legs on a hike to see these otherworldly rock formations up close.
7
Cabot Trail, Cape Breton
ANOTHER OF CANADA’S CLASSIC road trips, this two-lane highway hugs the dramatic Cape Breton coastline over 300 kilometres, with jaw-dropping views around each bend. While it’s worth the drive for the views alone – the wild Atlantic, windswept shores and lush forests – another joy of roadtripping in this part of the country is the infectious Maritime hospitality. Stop in historic towns with Celtic and Acadian roots – where you’re sure to hear a fiddle playing somewhere – and go whale watching, shop for souvenirs from local artisans and feast on lobster rolls and Acadian salt cod fish cakes. While you could drive 300 km in a single day, it’s best to stretch this road trip out over three or four days to enjoy everything Cape Breton has to offer. The Cabot Trail can be looped in either direction; there are various starting points, including the Trans-Canada Highway.
California THE ULTIMATE
Photo: Trace Rouda (Sunset In Southern California).
PLAYGROUND
IN CALIFORNIA, THERE ARE PLENTY OF REASONS TO SAY “ LET’S PLAY ! ”
SUNSHINY SEASIDES and bright lights in big cities, check. Top-table food and wine, check. Great outdoors and natural wonders, check. We say, game on.
What if there was a place perfect for epic adventures, with no limits to how far you could explore? What if taking a swing was more than just a golf moniker (though there’s plenty of that, too), and riding a wave meant experiencing the surf from beyond just a longboard? Where you’re encouraged to play with your food – it is where farm-to-table has its origin story, after all – and play hopscotch on the sidewalks along Hollywood’s Walk of Fame.
Free spirits have always flocked here, from the fortune seekers of the California gold rush to the starstruck searchers of Tinseltown to Silicon Valley icons. This is California, America’s Ultimate Playground. Beyond the glitz, the glamour and the gigabytes, there’s a California that ignites our inner child.
“California’s playful lifestyle, paired with our abundance of experiences, creates something no other destination can claim – California is the Ultimate Playground,” said Caroline Beteta, president and CEO of Visit California. “The power of play is scientifically proven, and majorities of every generation aren’t satisfied with the amount of time they spend playing. It’s time for that to change.”
Yes, we have the science to back that up. A new study conducted by the National Institute of Play (NIFP) – The Power of Play: Losing and Finding Ourselves through Everyday Play –strengthens findings from decades of research and provides a vital call to action for all of us to seek out more play in our lives.
“When we play, our brains ‘light up’ and the neural pathways formed from repeated playful times (whether early or late in life) shape how alive we feel, how well we learn, how cleverly we create/innovate, and how we relate from that point forward,” the study says.
So why not incorporate play into your next getaway? In California, there are plenty of ways for Canadians to get their game on, spark joy and rekindle that childlike spirit that reinvigorates our mental and physical well-being.
TAKE A WILD WELLNESS BREAK IN NEWPORT BEACH
Yes, we said ‘wild wellness.’ It’s a new well-being idea that goes beyond trending. It takes you out of the spa (but we won’t say no to that either) and into, yes, the wild. And with Newport Beach’s proximity to the sea, there’s a sense of calm known as “blue health” that naturally follows. Imagine watching whales at play in their natural habitat. It’s a positive and powerful experience that can influence stress-relief on your body and your mind. Bring on that inner peaceful feeling. Make sure you book a tour with professionals, such as Newport Coastal Adventures, for a deeper dive into these wonderful mammals’ lives and their marine environment. The best part? There are sightings all year round, but winter to spring is when the grey whales come out to play.
GO FOR GOLD IN GOLD COUNTRY
California isn’t called the Golden State for nothing. This is the place where the infamous Gold Rush began. Fortunes were made and lost, but the State’s reputation as being golden continues today. Start by celebrating the 100th birthday of California’s Highway 49, named for the California Gold Rush of 1849. Take
a drive through Gold Country, and many of the State’s historic mining communities. It winds its way over 480 kilometres (300 miles), from Sierra County’s Sierra Nevada mountain country to the north, to Sacramento and El Dorado Counties at its heart to Madera to the south; there’s a new way to discover that sense of history and play, every day. It’s here you’ll find boutique wineries featuring Rhône Valley varietals, farm to fork ranches and preserved, 19th century architecture along Highway 49.
WALK AMONG GIANTS AT THE FOOT OF MT. WHITNEY
Look up – way up. At Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, you can take a stroll along the Trail of 100 Giants in Long Meadow Grove, where giant sequoia trees make their home. Or take the Congress Trail, where you can experience the mental wellness benefits of forest bathing and come face to face with the planet’s largest living giant – the General Sherman Tree – which stands 84 metres (275 feet) tall and more than 10 metres (36 feet) in diameter. Speaking of giants, many of these natural wonders are found near the foot of Mt. Whitney, which is standing guard at more than 4,400 metres (14,000 feet). And how fun would it be to drive through a different kind of tunnel, one that was created by Mother Nature? Ride through the famous Tunnel Log, a felled 84-metrelong (275-foot) tree, in Sequoia National Park’s Giant Forest, which has rested on the forest floor since 1937. Nature’s playground has a brilliant way of repurposing!
Photos Clockwise: Visit California & Myles Mcguinness (Gold Country) (Joshua Tree); Patricia Elaine Thomas
(The Rolling Hills Of Temecula), Kapulya (Sequoia National Park In California).
ROCK YOUR BODY IN JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK
It’s here where the high Mojave Desert meets the low Colorado Desert, and there’s something about this desert that encourages us to just breathe, rising and falling, slowly and deeply, echoing its rolling dunes and rock formations. Experience a different kind of forest bathing among the whimsical shaped Joshua Trees, a type of Yucca tree. Their branches reach skyward; their fuzzy needle toppers reminiscent of a cheerleader’s pompoms. The Salton Sea can be spotted in the distance, but it’s the boulders that are calling to our inner child. Climbing here is an institution in itself. With more than 400 climbable rock formations and over 8,000 climbing routes, Joshua Tree is a natural playground. Take a class at Joshua Tree Rock Climbing School to hone your skills. When night falls, the sky fills with stars, where amateur astronomers can test their knowledge of the constellations. It’s the magic of the desert at play.
PLAY GROWNUP WITH WINE TASTINGS IN TEMECULA VALLEY
This is one of California’s true wine country gems. Citrus farmers made this an agricultural haven, but the terroir here has proven to be a great place to also grow grapes. The desert soil, with its granite base, is rich with the minerals the vines need to thrive; the microclimate spoils the hillside vineyards with cool mornings and plenty of all-day sunshine, tempered by the Pacific Ocean breezes. More than 50 wineries, of which 27 are award-winners, now create their vintages in Temecula Valley, where a diverse landscape gives way to diverse varieties of grapes – more than 30, from coolclimate Chardonnays to warm-weather lovers such as Zinfandel, Syrah and Grenache. This region is also home to a diverse culinary scene – wine pairings play perfectly with the SoCal foodie flavours of this region. Two of the valley’s many dining establishments of note, Pechanga Resort Casino’s Great Oak Steakhouse, and Temecula Creek Inn’s Cork Fire Kitchen, both received the Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator magazine in 2023. Sip away.
NEED MORE REASONS TO CHOOSE CALIFORNIA FOR YOUR NEXT ESCAPE?
From hiking through Yosemite to surfing in Surftown USA, there is something for every traveller in California. So, let’s play! Come and visit The Ultimate Playground. WHAT’S YOUR CALIFORNIA PLAY STYLE? Take The Ultimate Playground Play Quiz today to find out! The Ultimate Playground Play Quiz visitcalifornia.com
Places to Stay Hotel Julie, A love letter to Stratford, Ontario
The best place to stay in Ontario’s famed theatre and foodie town. By Brittany Johnson
hOW TO TAKE A STRATFORD staycation that is all heart? Here, we make a weekend getaway to Ontario’s theatre town inspired by Shakespeare. If you’re looking to make the most of your vacation time, a staycation is just the ticket. Trade long travel days, fighting lines and long wait times for something closer to home. Less stress and more rest is at the heart of any great staycation, and Stratford, Ont.’s new boutique hotel, Hotel Julie, is all that and more..
Situated in picturesque Stratford, the recently opened Hotel Julie is creating quite a stir. Affectionately referred to as their “love letter” to Stratford by Paula McFarlane and Jake Tayler, the husband and wife duo and aspiring hoteliers, this Shakespeare-inspired boutique hotel is nothing short of breathtaking, inside and out.
With the city of Stratford and the river running through it gleaning it’s name after Stratford-on-Avon in England, the charming city is home to North America’s
largest classical repertory theatre company, the Stratford Festival. The festival, originally known as The Stratford Shakespearean Festival, among a number of other iterations, runs more than a dozen productions each and every season, drawing theatre lovers from across the continent to the quaint town.
The address is only a stone's throw away from the Avon Theatre; the couple and their design team took an 1800s inn and lovingly transformed it into a glorious, modern tribute to Shakespeare. The name “Hotel Julie” itself derived from the starcrossed lover, Juliet, of the beloved classic Romeo and Juliet, but with an updated spin. Weaving the beauty of the old in with the new – each suite wows with a moody, rich colour scheme and elevated modern design aesthetic, evoking Elizabethan-era undertones and poetic detailing at every turn.
The bar for the exceptional is really defined by the details, and the team behind Hotel Julie haven’t missed a beat. The hotelier couple tapped creative director, Autumn Hachey, and interior designer Jillian Smith-Moher – along with
their expert team of collaborators – to bring to life the grand vision for the Innturned-hotel. The captivating burning heart logo, an homage to the playwright’s tragic love stories and which you will find embossed on even the deliciously scented artisan soaps, speaks volumes. Plush velvet curtains, luxe tapestries, awe-inspiring wallpaper and striking marble tables and countertops, all blend seamlessly together to create an experience – if called anything other than “poetic” would surely, like a rose, not smell as sweet.
Aptly named the “Serpent Suite,” the bold green haven created in Flat 4 was truly breathtaking. From the raised serpentine material on the custom club chairs, to the keyhole shaped doorway with plush theatre drapes separating the living spaces, every element was a work of art. I personally fell in love with the red marbled table, a stunning focal point in the middle of a velvet taupe rounded couch and two deep green armchairs. A splash of red for love, for lust, or for the blood shed in many of Shakespeare's plays, this distinct pop of colour amongst a sea of delicious green absolutely made my
interior-design-heart swoon.
During high season, mid April through to the end of October, or what in Stratford is known as “theatre season,” the city is abuzz, brimming with locavore-driven dining options, ample watering holes and quaint shoppes. Pazzo’s Pizzeria never disappoints for lunch or dinner, and the Boar’s Head is an excellent stop for a drink in a pub setting. The quiet season, November to the start of April, is equally as lovely, only with less hustle and bustle, which many Stratford lovers prefer.
From theatre lovers and history enthusiasts, to decor worshippers and even those just stopping through, the hotel is quickly becoming a chic and welcoming retreat, weaving itself seamlessly into the rich tapestry of Stratford.
Without a thorn in sight, this magnificent rose is a luxe-leisure escape in every sense of the word.
The only tragedy will inevitably come –at check-out time.
Hotel Julie, 92 St. Vincent St. N. in Stratford, Ontario; (226) 271-1765. Book your own stylish stay at the hotel via Hoteljulie.com.
BOLD Drive: What to Pack
On the Road Again
There’s a certain freedom to simply packing a bag – without the worry of carry-on limitations and lost luggage – and tossing it into the trunk of your car. No worries about over-packing, as the weather and the dress code can differ from destination to destination. Here, the editor’s picks for life on the highway. By Vivian
Vassos
1. The Jacket
Choose a hybrid design for lightweight ease and movement for breezy days on the golf course or the hiking trail, yet warmth and a streamlined, sporty look for casual nights out. Eugene hybrid knit and lightweight down jacket with waterproof zippers, Rudsak, $495, rudsak.com
2. The Hoodie
Layers are the way to go, whether protecting yourself from the chill or from the intensity of the sun. Pack a hoodie that features UPF 50+ protection, a classic fit and thumb holes at the cuffs for a little extra coverage. It’s anti-odor finish makes it great for that morning run, too. Sombra Men’s Hoodie, Cotopaxi. Altitude Sports, $99.99, altitude-sports.com
3. The Shirt
Natural fabrics such as linen (and don’t worry about the wrinkles!) wear well. New Zealand menswear brand Rodd & Gunn has come to Canada, and the company has stocked a great selection of shirts that will help keep you cool. According to the designers, linen’s natural breathability can help to regulate temperature. Gimmerburn pre-washed linen shirt, $179, roddandgunn.com/ca
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4. The Trousers
The classic cargo pant has come a long way: This straight leg pant still feels tailored but with a utilitarian edge. Loose straight surplus pants with adjustable drawstring waistband, $118, Levi’s.
Trail trainer, $200, from On. Even better, is On’s Cyclon program, which recycles used parts of On runners to create new ones. on.com/en-ca
5. The Jeans
The original zip fly, created in 1967, never gets old. The selvedge weave gives the denim a sturdier, polished finish, and the straight-leg cut looks great on everybody. 505 regular fit men’s jeans, $148, Levi’s.
6. The Shoes
Sneakers are the modern man’s go-to, 24/7. For driving days, look for a retro-inspired, super comfortable – and super on trend – suede sneaker, like the Club C Grounds UK, $120, from Reebok. reebok.ca For hitting the trails, whether hiking or
7. The Watch
8. The Bag
Omega’s latest Seamaster Aqua Terra collection is an elevated classic, in three sizes, for him and for her. From the black dial and its horizontal “teak” pattern inspired by the deck planks on sailboats, to the steel butterfly-closure bracelet, this sleek watch is easy to read, looks sharp with a suit or a T-shirt, and like any good statement watch, feels, well, timeless. Seamaster Aqua Terra black dial chronometer with date window, rhodiumplated hands and illuminated indexes, water-resistant to 150 metres, 41 mm face, $8,500, Omega. omegawatches.com 5 7 8 6
We love a collab, but this one is all heart. Elizabeth Hardy, the Canadian designer of Espe (espe.ca), a cruelty-free line of handbags and accessories, is partnering with her son, Ben Pollox, for his new line of utility-inspired, ethically-made men’s bags, called Benjamin Gordon. With this capsule collection, Ben answers the question: “How can an everyday guy wear a bag without feeling like he’s trying too hard?” Our faves for him are Ben’s crossbody and sling options, and women who are fans of minimalist style will love them, too. The collection features nine designs, with prices ranging from CDN $28 to $110. benjamingordon.ca
Sombra Men’s Hoodie, Cotopaxi
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THE DOPE DOPP-KIT
1. Keep It Clean
3
ClarinsMen Active Face Wash, for all skin types is a cleansing gel that gently cleans and tones skin and soothes razor burn. $32, clarins.ca
2. Smooth Operator
The Barbershop Pro Metal Series rotary shaver from Conair makes it easy to stay stubble-free when you’re on the road – the floating flexible heads are showerproof, its high-speed motor charges via USB, and its shiny metal casing is not too shabby looking either. $149.99, conaircanada.ca BOLD Drive: What to Pack
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3. Hair Force
Vichy Dercos Energy+ Fortifying Shampoo for anti-hair loss can help reinforce the hair and scalp, repair damage from breakage, and strengthen and fortify the hair fibre to aid in the reduction of hair loss. $23.95, vichy.ca/en
4. It’s The Balm
5. The Eyes Have It
L’Oréal Paris Men’s Expert Power Age
Revitalising Eye Care cream hydrates and firms the eye contour, $17.99, Shoppers Drug Mart.
6. Mr. Brightside
Byoma De-Puff and Brighten Eye Gel does exactly that – reduces puffiness and brightens up the undereye area– with ceramides, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C. This one is great for him and for her. $18.99, Shoppers Drug Mart. 1
Dior Le Baume is a multi-purpose balm that revitalises and soothes skin, especially for those dry areas like the hands, lips and parts of the body, and it comes in a cool, 50mL travel-sized compact for easy packing. $81, Dior, dior.com/en_ca
7. Save Your Skin
Belif Aqua Bomb broad spectrum SPF 50 does double duty as a lightweight moisturiser and a shield against the sun’s harmful rays. And don’t forget to dab a bit on the tops of your hands, especially if they’re on the wheel all day. $38, Sephora, sephora.com/ca
8. Stick To It
Blue Lizard Sensitive Mineral Stick SPF 50+
If a cream or gel sunscreen isn’t your thing, or you need something for on-the-go reapplication, try this zinc-oxide based solid, easily absorbed formula. It’s also great for those harder-to-apply spots like the ears and the back of your neck. $14.99, Shoppers Drug Mart.
Auto Pilots
You’re all packed and ready for that road trip. Now, get in the (electric) car and drive.
THE EV 101
If you’ve questions about switching to an Electric Vehicle (EV), we’ve got your answers. We asked the experts at Cadillac, the automotive company that’s just launched LYRIQ, its latest EV. Everyone wants a better planet, but many of us also want to see as much of this big beautiful world as we can. One way to do it is by driving an EV. But what does that mean? For the Cadillac LYRIQ, it means a range of about 500 kilometres on a single charge. Other features include Super Cruise, the first truly hands-free driving assistance tech that works with compatible highways. Integrating apps is easier with Google Built-In, as well as the MyCadillac app, which helps find charging stations, route maps, tracks your charge status, access roadside assistance (OnStar is also on board) and more. cadillac.com/electric/lyriq
A few things to know:
• Speed, starting and stopping and outdoor temperatures can affect how far you can go on a full charge
• A special energy recovery system keeps the LYRIQ’s battery warm for better efficiency in cold weather
• You can charge your vehicle at home, using a 208 or 240 V wall outlet, the same type used for dryers and ovens, for about 83 kilometres of charge per hour
• Public chargers tend to use high-speed charging tech, for about 120 kilometres of range in 10 minutes
The bottom line :
Think of it like your cell phone – 80 percent and below is a good operating charge, but you may want to plug in before the battery drops to below 10 percent.
SPACE CX
For Mazda’s latest, bigger is really better. With the company releasing its first-ever CX-70, a premium two-row, five-passenger SUV, you won’t have to worry about packing it all in, or your impact on the environment when you get behind the wheel. The CX-70 is available with three electrified engine options, including a plugin hybrid with up to 42 kilometres of range, and standard i-Activ AWD, pairing performance and efficiency. It also has a moonroof or panoramic roof option to let the light in. And, according to the company, it’s been built for those with a passion for adventure and travel in mind. mazda.ca
A DESERT EYE-OPENER
Indigenous insight, geological adventure and pioneering people in Coachella Valley prove there’s a lot of heritage heft under all that hot water in historic Palm Springs. By Doug Wallace
Photos: Visit Greater Palm Springs (Cabot’s Pueblo Museum), (Indian Canyons Nature Reserve), (The Spa At Séc-He, Agua Caliente Cultural Plaza); Doug Wallace (Sculpture), (Red Jeep Tours).
This spread: Scenes from Cabot’s Pueblo Museum
oTHER THAN THE OVERALL glam reputation of Palm Springs, I had no idea about the city’s history, except what I’ve gleaned from Hollywood tales of movie-star shenanigans.
Unsurprisingly, given they have been around for millennia, the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians owns the whole of downtown Palm Springs. One square mile of the heart of the city – known as Section 14 – is part of the Agua Caliente Reservation, established in 1876. As a result, all the downtown businesses lease their spaces from the 450-member tribe, which owns about 13,000 hectares of land in the region in total.
The full story – all 8,000 years of it – is revealed at the new Agua Caliente Cultural Museum, a 930-square-metre space set within a cultural plaza, built on the site of a sacred mineral spring. This new hub for Indigenous tourism showcases the history and culture of the Agua Caliente Indians. A 360-degree digital animated backstory begins the tale, followed by scale replicas of people and practices, cultural artefacts and artworks. I then wander through a visual timeline that lines up more recent history and become transfixed with video remembrances of present-day band members. Evidence of the tribe’s long possession of – and connection to – the land, comes last with a room of archaeological findings, some carbon-dating back 8,000 years.
The plaza also includes an Oasis Trail of native plants and rocks, with water features inspired by the tribe’s ancestral lands, and the high-style Spa at Séc-he, which translates to “sound of boiling water” in the Cahuilla language.
“IT CONTAINS A SEISMIC UNDERTONE, AS WE JEEP OUR WAY TO THE SAN ANDREAS FAULT”
The Spa at Séc-he, Agua Caliente Cultural Plaza
Red Jeep Tours
DIGGING THE GEOTOURISM ON THE FAULT LINE
My history lesson continues just north of the city of Indio with Red Jeep Tours. Only this time, it contains a seismic undertone, as we jeep our way to the San Andreas Fault and drive around on top of it. I hang on while Darrell Black Feather weaves around rock and ridge, cuts and canyons, relating stories of the history and geology here, explaining the shifting of the North American and Pacific tectonic plates. The sparse plant life, which doesn’t look like much, also comes with a story or two about desert culture, as does the lone roadrunner that we spot on a hill – apparently not very picky about what it eats. (Rattlesnake, anyone?)
Our jeep rolls into a natural palm oasis, where Black Feather reveals that palms are not trees but actually plants. We walk through the longhouse and family huts of a recreated Cahuilla Indian village, which sits on an actual ancient village site. This provides the link between the tour, the land and the Indigenous people who once called the fault zone home.
ROOTING AROUND IN A SETTLER’S LEGACY
At Hopi-style historic house Cabot’s Pueblo, a museum at the edge of the city of Desert Hot Springs, we startle the docent manning the office – it appears we are the only visitors. Our eyes glaze over when she asks us if we want the Wi-Fi password, until we realize that the audio guide can be pulled up on our phones. What I think is going to be a quick whip through an old house turns out to be quite the tale, a riveting meander through a labyrinth of a property, built by an eccentric desert homesteader.
Cabot Yerxa turns out to be an early pioneer, entrepreneur and native-rights advocate, and one of the founders of Desert Hot Springs. One of the first things he did after homesteading the 160 acres in 1913 was dig a well, discovering the famous hot springs the area is now known for. Second, he dug another well, this time hitting the cold water of the Mission Springs Aquifer. Finding his good fortune to be a bit of a miracle, he named the area Miracle Hill.
Following a stint in the army and a few trips abroad, Yerxa returned to the desert and built his 35-room patchwork pueblo out of adobe bricks and scavenged material – using even secondhand nails. The audio story takes us through each room of the main part of the property, weaving together eyebrow-raising anecdotes of life in the desert for Yerxa and his wife Portia. This quirky historic figure is still remembered for his vision of a city growing out of the arid desert.
There’s truth to the notion that the most rewarding vacation is one that gives back, not just environmentally or sustainably, but culturally as well. In the Coachella Valley, I find that in spades, supporting the heritage and learning something new at the same time.
Sit by the pool all day if you want to, but I’ll be out in the desert looking for more legends.
A Gaspé Peninsula road trip to Land’s End. By James Ross
Percé Rock
Gaspesian artist Marcel Gagnon and the Pointe-auPère Lighthouse; (right) lobster supper elevated at La Maison du Pêcheur
Photos: Mathieu Dupuis/Le Québec Maritime (Whales Off Forillon National Park), Roger St-Laurent/Tourisme Gaspésie (Seafood Dish); Marc Loiselle/ Le Québec Maritime; Mathieu Dupuis/Le Québec Maritime (Pointe-Au-Père Lighthouse); Gaspesian Artist Marcel Gagnon.
Whether this is Land’s End or Land’s Beginning depends on how you approach it.
THAT IS THE ARGUMENT
I put to my wife as we left Quebec’s Grande-Grave in Forillon National Park in a whale watching zodiac, following some playful, showboating humpbacks far out to sea. Minke whales, white-sided dolphins, and seals joined the performance, jumping, flashing their tails and arching their sleek bodies through surf that was gradually getting more tempestuous.
We turned for home, pounding through the chop and spray until the welcoming Cape Gaspé lighthouse materialized on the horizon. These limestone cliffs would have comforted mariners in day’s past, while the small lighthouse high atop would have warned the sailors off from an untimely meeting with Land’s Beginning. Just as I thought the Land’s Beginning argument was gaining traction, however, our know-all whale interpreter pointed out that Gaspé is an indigenous Mi’kmaq word meaning “Land’s End.”
I must also stand corrected on my story title. I found that our road trip to Land’s End was not a drive to a dead-end, but rather a wonderful circle trip, and the outcrop that is Forillon National Park was but a magnificent pause midway through our journey. We will return to Forillon in due course, but let’s start at the beginning, which for us was at the Pointe-au-Père Maritime Historic Site, just outside of the Gaspé in Rimouski. Three exhibits on this site will become themes for our coming adventure.
Firstly, the Empress of Ireland museum tells the story of the tragic 1914 sinking of this transatlantic liner, one of the worst Canadian maritime disasters. This coastline is notorious for its intense fog, shoals and tides. This then explains the need for the 33-metre-high Pointeau-Père Lighthouse. You can climb its 128 steps
for a terrific view. We will be passing 14 more of these sentinels on our coastal journey. The third feature on the site is the Cold War submarine Onondaga, where we take a fascinating onboard tour. How is this a theme for our trip? Well, after my wife witnessed what a submariner’s life was like in those cramped quarters, a road trip around the peninsula stuck in a vehicle with me suddenly seemed more palatable.
It is also at this historic site that my wife agrees with my decision to travel our route counter-clockwise, as I like to drive on the edge. Route 132 will initially take us south across the Matapedia Valley, and this part of the drive, away from the coast, gives me a chance to give a quick geography orientation. The Gaspé (Gas-Pay) Peninsula, Gaspésie in French, is a 31,000 square kilometre chunk of Quebec that extends 240 km into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. French is widely spoken, but Anglophone tourists are treated very nicely, won’t starve, and will quickly figure out how to order a bière at a Microbrasserie.
We return to the coast at Pointe-ala-Croix, with a brief stop at the Battle of Restigouche National Historic Site on Chaleur Bay. On July 8, 1760, the last naval battle between French and English took place here, sealing the fate of New France. From here we steer northeast, the coastal highway will hug the water (and everything else worthwhile) for the rest of our trip. Each town we pass through has its own picturesque features, whether a museum, quaint harbour or lighthouse, which are in such abundance that not only is there an official lighthouse trail, but locals also use them when giving directions – as in, drive past your third lighthouse and hang a right. Lighthouses along the coast are hard to miss, which I guess is the point, and each has its own story, its own personality. We pass our first one in Carleton-sur-Mer, along with our first microbrewery. I find both hard to drive past without taking a break.
The landscape slowly shifts from gentle rolling farmlands to the rollercoaster hills of Haute-Gaspésie. After two days of travelling through sleepy fishing villages, we arrived in vibrant Percé, with its eclectic mix of artisan shops, bistros, and seafood eateries. Percé’s star attraction,
and the region’s most iconic landmark is the 400-million-year-old, 433 m. long, 90 m. wide, and 88 m high, Percé Rock. We grab mandatory selfies with the pierced rock behind and then book a boat trip to get a closer look.
Bateliers de Perce offers a fantastic boat trip, for views around the rock and an afternoon touring Bonaventure Island, where 110,000 northern gannets make up the world’s largest and most accessible colony. We amble along Les Colonies trail to where the gannets squawk, feed and make guano. The noise and stench is incredible, but the spectacle is worth the sensory risks. On the cliffside trek back to the wharf, we see puffin, razorbills and seals basking on the rocks.
Just north of Percé is Gaspé’s largest town, Gaspé (population 15,000). Explorer Jacques Cartier planted a wooden cross near here in 1534 and claimed the territory for France. The Jacques Cartier Monument National Historic Site is worth a visit, as is the Musée de la Gaspésie, which displays, among other things, a dented torpedo fired into the dangerous rocks by a German U-boat prowling offshore in 1942.
At the easternmost tip of the Gaspé is Cap-Bon-Ami, where the ragged Appalachian Mountains tumble precariously into the Atlantic Ocean. Forillon National Park is known for dramatic views, hiking, sea kayaking, wildlife, whales and historic sites. We stay two nights and indulge in a bit of everything, hiking Le Chute trail to a pretty waterfall, climbing up to the summit of Mont Saint-Alban for its panoramic view, and trekking Les Graves trail to land’s end to stand beside the cliff top lighthouse we had seen during our whale watching tour. We go kayaking along the ragged shoreline in search of harbour seal colonies, drop into Hyman &
Sons General Store, a restored shop that served the area’s golden era of cod fishing, and visit Fort Peninsula, a Second World War naval base built to protect the Gulf of St. Lawrence from U-Boat attacks and provide a haven for the Allied fleet in the event Great Britain was invaded.
The north coast of the Gaspé is a spectacular mix of rocky coves, hills and more lighthouses. From Forillon, Route 132 soars to celestial heights before dipping into deep bays, then out onto windswept capes. The shoreline is a constant companion, the highway squeezed to the coast by the Chic-Choc Mountains. We stop to do some mountain hiking in Parc national de la Gaspésie and to smell the flowers at the expansive Redford Gardens in Grand-Metis.
Our amazing road trip returns us to Rimouski, full of the memories and sensations of the natural beauty, impressive scenery and varied landscapes of this coastal drive, and of the cultural attractions and culinary delights that abound, where every lobster fisher, guide, naturalist, chef, artist, and every lighthouse, has a story.
Northern gannets, Les Colonies Trail
Photo:
Jean-Pierre Huard/Le Québec Maritime (View Of Percé Rock, The Frederick James Villa And Part Of The Village Of Percé), Mathieu Dupuis/Le Québec Maritime (Colony Of Northern Gannets).
Road Trip Tips
THE ROUTE
Route 132 begins some 350 kilometres east of Quebec City and is a 10 1/2-hour drive from Toronto, so you have a ways to go from a major hub before your Gaspé road trip technically even starts. I consider this a positive. Any closer and this delightful drive might be overrun. Although it is doable in two or three days, this certainly is not recommended.
MUST STAY
At Forillon National Park we stayed in a funky, spaceship-shaped Oasis, a fairly new Parks Canada accommodation. Built high on stilts, with a clear view of the night sky and open to the sound of the pounding surf, this seaside glamping option fits in perfectly with the landscape of Land’s End.
MUST EAT
The best seafood in Percé can be found at La Maison du Pêcheur. The seaside restaurant has a diverse menu of delectable seafood options. Authentic dishes like sea urchin cream soup, cod cheeks, Gaspésie lobster, salt-cured cod pizza and something called winkles in garlic sauce (sea snails), give you a taste of the region. Throughout the Gaspésie, casse-croûtes (roadside food stalls) serve up the Québécois staple poutine, gravy-smothered cheese curds and fries.
MUST DO
Exploramer was described inadequately as a hands-on aquarium for visitors who like touching wet things, including a rare blue lobster and all manner of crustaceans. There is a shark exhibit including Great Whites that lurk in the area – but they are not in the touch pool. Most captivating was a walk on the seafloor at low tide. Donning baggy hip-waders with attached rubber boots, we went skulking around the tidal flats and splashing through the pools with an interpreter, observing all kinds of fascinating sea life trapped and exposed.
FAVOURITE LIGHTHOUSE
We had to take a short detour on a dirt road off the main route, but it was worth it to tour the Pointe-à-la-Renommée lighthouse station on the peninsula’s north shore, to learn of the life of a keeper and his family, and to tour the first maritime radio station in North America. The lighthouse itself was kidnapped and re-situated in Quebec City, until a public outcry brought it back home.
How a road trip through an ancient land is the catalyst to rekindling a spiritual passion – for travel and for each other. By Rod Charles
Thessaloniki at sunset
THIS IS HOW A WELLPLANNED, one-city getaway turned into a strategically coordinated three-city road trip that would form the backbone of our romantic getaway –with a spiritual twist.
Where it started
Since Athens had always been a destination on our ‘to get to’ list and was only seven hours by car from Thessaloniki it made sense to add that spot to the itinerary. A month later Meteora went on the list after hearing about the UNESCO World Heritage site from a friend who gushed about the spiritual experiences he had enjoyed there.
My wife and I began our journey to celebrate our 10th wedding anniversary in Thessaloniki, a city overflowing with restaurants, shops, museums and historic landmarks. With a population of more than one million, Thessaloniki offers visitors a chance to savour outstanding food paired with some of the finest wines in Europe.
We stayed at the exquisite Makedonia Palace Hotel, an ideal spot for romance, with a pool, spa and balcony overlooking
the city. Located on the Thermaic Gulf along a pedestrian walkway, Makedonia is where you will find Chef Sotiris Evangelou, a national celebrity who takes pride in creating authentic Greek dishes for his diners.
After taking a bit of solo time in the afternoon so that my wife could immerse herself in ‘retail therapy,’ it was decided that we would have dinner together at the hotel. We sipped wine on the stunning patio and tried several regional appetizers under a humid night sky. The highlight of my evening was trying new plates and watching my wife energetically devour squid, a dish that would normally cause her to recoil in horror. Seeing her go back for seconds was a testament to the culinary skills of Chef Evangelou.
While the food in Thessaloniki is fantastic, it is the wine for which the region is known. Located roughly 120 km southeast of Thessaloniki are the protected designation of origin (PDO) Slopes of Meliton and the protected geographical indication (PGI) Sithonia. These designations ensure that the wines are from these protected regions. It sits on the middle leg of the Sithonia peninsula and, true to its name, on the western slopes of Mount Meliton. It is home to Domaine Porto Carras, one of the oldest vineyards in Greece.
The Plaka neighbourhood, Athens
Makedonia Palace
Where it went
After a week in Thessaloniki we rented a car and made the three-hour drive to Meteora. This was my first time driving in Europe and I have to admit feeling apprehensive about operating a vehicle on foreign soil. But my wife was very encouraging despite being uneasy herself. Once on the outskirts of the city our worries evaporated and the drive itself turned into a fantastic adventure. We coasted through winding mountain tunnels and drifted along the highway, sharing treats while listening to music.
I did not expect this phase of our trip to have room for romance but we were captivated by the remarkable landscape. I took my foot off the gas and slowed down, my left hand on the wheel and my right hand in hers.
A rustic landscape with a collection of Eastern Orthodox monasteries in Thessaly built on giant rock pillars, Meteora has six remaining monasteries that visitors can access by pathways and staircases along the walls. We visited two of them during our stay – The Holy Monastery of Varlaam and the Grand Meteora, the largest of the six, which we ascended on our second day. Seeing those steps on the Internet is not the same as looking up at them in person. Since I don’t like heights I had to channel my inner warrior before beginning the climb, while reassuring my nervous wife that there was nothing to be anxious about. Joined by crowds of people under a blistering sun, we made our way
up those narrow, calorie-wrecking steps to stomach-churning heights.
It wasn’t an easy climb and I wouldn’t suggest trying it during a heat wave but it was worth every cramped muscle for those views of the nearby town of Kalambaka and the other monasteries. At Grand Meteora we were able to meditate, give thanks and light candles in honour of family and friends. As strange as it may sound, the struggle to get up those steps was a sacred experience in its own way, drawing us closer as we encouraged each other to keep going.
Fittingly, on the way to the capital from Meteora, we stopped for an unplanned visit in Kamena Vourla, a vacation town with several water-side restaurants and a gorgeous beach. We parked, put on our swim gear and willed ourselves into the chilly waters of the Malian Gulf. After days of being around crowds we could enjoy this beautiful spot together, grateful for a silent moment. We bobbed and hugged, reminisced about our wedding in Toronto and shared jokes under the searing afternoon sun.
After that quick stop we hit the road for Athens, where the atmosphere of the Plaka neighbourhood enthralled us. We visited the National Archaeological Museum and checked out the Acropolis of Athens. The climb to the top of the Acropolis was worth every painful stride for those views of the city and an opportunity to get close to this historic landmark.
After leaving the Acropolis, we took our dehydrated bodies over to a nearby restaurant that had several outdoor fans and sat down without even looking at a menu. We were stiff but content as we shared drinks and cooled off together in the shade.
“We did it, we did it,” was all either of us had the energy to say.
And we’re still in love…
Dining in Thessaloniki, meditating in Meteora and enjoying the archeological wonders of Athens had been part of the plan. Pushing our limits up the steps of Meteora and the Acropolis during a heat wave and stumbling onto a beach in Kamena Vourla, while unexpected, was all the more exhilarating – unplanned, spontaneous experiences that created some of the most memorable moments of our trip.
As with a relationship itself, the unexpected occurrences of joy and connection are what we most tightly hold onto – and continue to desire, even if we don’t know when the next such moment will come. visitgreece.gr
The Holy Monastery of Varlaam, Meteora
Makedonia Palace Lobby
Wish you were here
Postcard from
The Great Spirit Circle Trail
WHILE CANADA is home to the world’s largest freshwater lake (Lake Superior), it’s also home to the world’s largest freshwater island. Manitoulin Island, in Lake Huron, has more than 100 lakes of its own. It’s accessible via the MS Chi-Cheemaun ferry in Tobermory – on the tip of Ontario’s Bruce Peninsula – from May to October, but there’s also a swing bridge (via Highway 6) accessible year-round. While Manitoulin Island is an outdoor playground, it’s also rich in First Nation history. There are seven reserves along the Great Spirit Circle Trail that are open to visitors and provide a glimpse into the lives of the Anishinaabe. While here, visit the Ojibwe Cultural Foundation, go on a medicine walk with a local Anishinaabe guide and take in a traditional song and dance performance – and be sure to try fresh smoked trout with Bannock and berries. —Vawn Himmelsbach
Manitoulin Island: Courtesy of Destination Canada.
