Fall Edition 2024 - The Cruise Edition

In this issue

21 ON OUR RADAR Stylish Stays: A quick spin around the globe reveals the most notable spots that inspire us

24 PLACES TO STAY Our intrepid traveller booked a room at one of the most elegant all-inclusive resorts in the Caribbean to celebrate a milestone birthday, and why you should too

30 ISLAND SPOTLIGHT

St. Kitts & Nevis may be two separate islands, but they make up one beautifully diverse island nation

BOLD TASTE At The Pig, a kitchen plot-to-table foodie haven, it feeds the body and enlivens the spirit

LIBATIONS There’s nothing quite like taking a sip at the top of Canada

39 ASK A LOCAL Hotelier Franck Arnold, managing director of The Savoy, gives us his insider guide to London

40 THE GLOBETROTTER Influencer and tastemaker Amy Chang

42 STYLE What to pack for the land of lakes and volcanoes

49 THE BOLD CRUISE REPORT The ultimate journeys, from river cruises to super yachts – everything you need to know about the latest ships, new ports, cool excursions and the must-do experiences

70 SPOTLIGHT From rebirth to reimagining, two grande dames of London’s hotel scene are ready for their close up

76 INSIDER’S GUIDE TO … Hobart, Tasmania

82 WISH YOU WERE HERE Postcard from … Neko Harbour, Antarctic Peninsula

Photographs:

With the pigs at The Pig near Bath, in England.

ODYSSEY.

EPIC SEA VOYAGES, whether it’s for 10 years, as the legend of Odysseus was destined, or 10 days, as most of us mere mortals in the here and now can manage are, nevertheless, odysseys in their own right.

One source defines cruising as “to sail about in an area without a precise destination, especially for pleasure.” And a pleasure it certainly is. Experiencing new places – in some cases a new place

Sailing Italy on the newly launched Explora Journey’s Explora II

every day – is a bit thrilling, a bit voyeurlike, taking a quick peek and vowing to come back for a closer look. There’s a seachange happening, too. Travelling by ship is no longer only the domain of the Navy, royalty or those of a certain “vintage” (although clearly they’re onto something). Intimate floating boutique hotels and enormous floating all-inclusive resorts at sea and just about everything in between (yacht-style ships, anyone?), are appealing to all ages.

But there’s more to it. There’s a mind/ body/spirit connection that humans have to the water. Studies show that those of us fortunate enough to live in proximity to it are mentally healthier; and those of us that spend our holidays close to it are better for it afterward. The air is fresher, the sunsets are brighter, the dark skies an explosion of stars, the sound and feel of the waves gently rock. You are at once infused with a sense of calm and peace; stress, anxiety – even depression – have been shown to subside when you’re on or near the water. Celebrating life at sea also comes with additional benefits. Ports of call open new worlds to travellers, places that may otherwise go unexplored. Meeting locals who are blessed with a nearness to water, learning about their town, their culture, their food (yes, I’m always ready to learn about the food!) are ways to connect with the community before boarding a ship. By land or by sea? That is the question. Why not both? In this digital age where we can work productively without being behind a desk certainly encourages thinking about it. It sparks our inner nomad to take the plunge. On the rivers, a simple step off the beaten path can mean pulling up to the dock of a quiet European hamlet just in time for lunch; on the ocean, spotting whales off the deck

of an expedition ship is awe inspiring; and sailing out to sea, just that – the sea, in all its blue wonder.

For me, that blue wonder is the real draw. There’s still an element of the unknown, a siren’s call that beckons from the waves. Like Odysseus, as a traveller, I’m destined to answer.

Vivian Vassos Editor in Chief

ON THE COVER

Come Sail Away

Photographed by Nicola Majocchi/Gallerystock

CONTRIBUTORS

For this issue, we asked our #boldtravellers for their most meaningful travel experience.

TIM JOHNSON

To Pre- or Apres Sail?, pg52

“My most significant travel experience was watching the Northern Lights unfold across the sky in the Swedish Arctic. I had my father with me, and he was seeing them for the first time – or at least the first time in a long time. We got there by dog sled, arrived to a crackling fire and lingonberry tea. Splendour and warmth. Just a perfect travel moment.”

Tim Johnson has visited 151 countries on all seven continents, always in search of a good story. He’s taken the TransSiberian across frozen landscapes during the coldest winter in a decade, cruised on a submarine below the Antarctic Circle, tipped back fermented camel’s milk in a Mongolian tent, and heli-hiked in Greenland. @timjohnsontravels

MARGARET SWAINE

Grazing the Waves, pg68

“In a lifetime of meaningful travel experiences in over 136 countries some do stand out. After two weeks in Sri Lanka, I felt connected to our excellent driver Anton, clearly striving to support his family. Through Facebook and

occasional messenger texts from him I get updates on bombings, political turmoil, despair and just this month his move out-of-country.” Margaret Swaine has toured the globe many times over as a travel journalist, wine and restaurant critic and feature writer. She has authored more than 2,000 articles for numerous magazines and is the founder of the Wine Writers Circle of Canada and the Travel Media Association of Canada. @margaret.swaine

MARCK GUTT

Postcard from Neko Harbour, Antarctic Peninsula, pg82

“I love uniqueness almost as much as I love wildlife, which is why endemic species trigger my inner globetrotter. For years, I travelled to different destinations in Mexico and Central America looking for resplendent quetzals, a stunningly colourful bird that cannot live in captivity. I was in the right place, at the right time and with the best company, but no luck. In 2021 it all changed. The Dota cloud forest, in Costa Rica, surprised me not with one, but with a couple of quetzals. I can see why many pre-Columbian cultures considered it a deity. I still shed a tear when I remember that day.” Marck Gutt is an awardwinning travel journalist and professional photographer. Inspired by nature and ancestral wisdom, his work focuses on wilderness, diversity and conservation and has been featured in titles such as Esquire, National Geographic and Travel + Leisure. @don.viajes

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Vivian Vassos

SENIOR CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Vawn Himmelsbach

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Liz Fleming, Ruth J. Katz, Brittany Johnson, Aaron Rasmussen

ART DIRECTION AND DESIGN

Megan Cronje

CONTRIBUTORS: PRINT + DIGITAL

Jennifer Bain, Jim Bamboulis, Jim Byers, Rod Charles, Loren Christie, Judi Cohen, Anita Draycott, Meagan Drillinger, Marck Gutt, Tim Johnson, Alison McGill, Jennifer Merrick, Sabrina Pirillo, Amanda Ross, James Ross, Darcy Rhyno, Toby Saltzman, Dick Snyder, Michele Sponagle, Margaret Swaine, Doug Wallace, Jennifer Weatherhead

PUBLISHER + CEO

Marlon Moreno

VICE PRESIDENT + ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Catalina Gordon

DIRECTOR OF PUBLIC RELATIONS

Rebecca Marissa Cohen

WEB DEVELOPER Komodo Innovations Inc. info@komodoinnovations.com

Rahul Nair

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BOLD Traveller ® is published by Moreno + Company. Opinions expressed in BOLD Traveller® are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher or advertisers.

ON OUR RADAR

NEWS. FINDS. PEOPLE. OPINIONS. OBSESSIONS

STYLISH STAYS

Five hotels that inspire us with thoughtful touches, decor details and wellness ways, so much so that you’ll want to bring it home. By Vawn Himmelsbach

HOTEL DESIGN

Photograph:

HOTELS ALLOW US TO ESCAPE from day-to-day life, but they can also spark inspiration that we bring home with us. Architecture often plays a role in hotel design, as does the destination itself. But interior design – from Zen-like minimalism to whimsical art deco – can give a space personality and create a mood that guests “feel” as soon as they walk through the doors. And some are so inspiring, we just might want to steal a few décor ideas to replicate at home. Here, five stylish stays that inspire us:

2. CLARIDGE’S, LONDON

While Claridge’s has been around for more than 200 years – and was once frequented by Queen Victoria – there’s nothing stuffy about this Victorian-era hotel. It manages to stay relevant, thanks to collaborations with influential designers: Diane von Furstenburg, Guy Oliver and David Linley, to name a few. It still retains its art deco glamour from the jazz age, with black-and-white checkered marble flooring in the lobby and bold geometric designs in the 1930s-style Fumoir bar. In your room, you might find silk de Gournay wall panels, birch veneer tables and bronzedbrass screens, which you’ll wish you could take home with you. Plus, there’s a subterranean spa, designed by André Fu – inspired from his time in Japan – with limestone, oak and bronze that exude a Zen-like calm. claridges.co.uk

1. ROYAL MANSOUR, MARRAKECH

Designed in Moorish-Andalusian style (by OBMI design firm), you’ll feel like you’re entering a palace when you pass through the hotel’s grand cedar-and-bronze gates into three hectares of gardens. That’s intentional: The hotel was designed to look like a Moroccan palace with its arched doorways and vintage-style floral tiles, featuring the work of more than 2,000 local artisans (which you can seek out in the surrounding medina). Its 53 garden-style riads, each with a private roof terrace and solarium, reflect traditional Moroccan design. But the hotel also pays homage to fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent, who traveled to Marrakech to design his haute couture collections. It’s also a top wellness destination: the Spa Royal Mansour Marrakech, with the lacing of its iron walls, is a sanctuary designed in traditional Moorish style. royalmansour.com

Photographs: Royal Mansour Marrakech; Claridge’s London; Manon Les Suites

Guldsmeden Copenhagen; The Whitby Hotel New York; The Warehouse Hotel, Singapore.

3. MANON LES SUITES GULDSMEDEN, COPENHAGEN

It may sound like an unlikely mash-up, but the Danish brand’s bohomeets-luxe style, with its Balinese touches and hygge vibe, works. Guldsmeden has created its own distinctive style across its boutique properties (in Denmark, Norway, Iceland, France, Germany and Bali). At Manon Les Suites, its most luxe offering, 87 suites offer fourposter beds, multicoloured rugs and handcrafted accents. The brand prioritizes natural materials that age well, like fine wine; the idea is to make design more sustainable rather than based on the trends of the moment. The pièce de résistance is the hotel’s jungle-like pool deck, surrounded by lush foliage and dangling fish lamps. There’s also a rooftop spa featuring a traditional Nordic sauna, aromatic steam bath and cold-water bucket bath (with, of course, some Balinese flair). guldsmedenhotels.com

4. THE WHITBY HOTEL, NEW YORK CITY

Forget about minimalism – The Whitby is all about maximalist design, with a kaleidoscope of bold colours, textures and patterns. Part of the Firmdale Hotels Group, The Whitby was designed by Kit Kemp, Firmdale’s co-owner and design director. Her signature style extends from the 87 guestrooms to the on-site orangery, outdoor terrace and book-lined drawing room. Here you’ll find an eclectic mix of contemporary low and high art, playful bespoke wallpaper and groupings of ceramics, baskets and candles (not to mention Kemp’s signature all-marble bathrooms that create a spa-like feel). If you’ve ever wondered how to pull together seemingly unrelated design elements without it looking too busy, a stay here will inspire a lot of ideas. firmdalehotels.com

5. THE WAREHOUSE HOTEL, SINGAPORE

Asylum, the designers behind this boutique 37-room hotel, have put a modern spin on industrial design while incorporating the hotel’s storied past. Originally built in 1895 as a spice warehouse – part of the Straits of Malacca trade route – the building was once home to opium dens, secret societies and even a disco. Now, the heritage building – with its vault ceilings and exposed brickwork — is a homage to local talent and Singapore identity. Even the cups and saucers were made by local ceramics studio Mudrock (so you can, in fact, pick up some décor to bring home with you). Many of the rooms are loft-style, with the original windows and beams, and feature elegant touches such as leather-lined desks and tiered trays shaped like bird cages. Plus, there’s a rooftop pool and one of the hippest restaurants in town, Po, from The Lo & Behold Group. For anyone looking to turn a loft into an ‘industrial luxe’ space, The Warehouse will serve as inspiration. thewarehousehotel.com

PLACES TO STAY

SANDALS ROYAL BAHAMIAN

Hotel check in/check up – our intrepid traveller booked a room at one of the most elegant all-inclusive resorts in the Caribbean to celebrate a milestone birthday, and why you should too. By Marlon Moreno

CELEBRATING 50 IN PARADISE As I approached my 50th birthday, I knew I wanted to celebrate in style. The Caribbean has always called to me, with its turquoise waters and sun-drenched shores. So when the opportunity arose to visit Sandals Royal Bahamian in the Bahamas, I didn’t hesitate.

A LUXURIOUS TRANSFORMATION

Sprawling over 15 acres, the resort has recently undergone a multimillion-dollar transformation, enhancing its already stunning architecture modelled after colonial Bahamian mansions, tiered white marble water fountains and soothing pastel colours. The new Island Village is a highlight, featuring standalone villas named after remote

Bahamian cays. Each villa captures the Caribbean essence of the Bahamas, with its hues of pinks, blues and whites, adorned with shiplap wood planks and striped awnings that create an inviting and relaxed ambience.

UNMATCHED AMENITIES

One of the first things that struck me upon arrival was the light filled, open air to the sea grandeur of the resort. With 404 rooms decorated all in white, with local art and photos depicting island life, including the all-new Crystal Lagoon Swim-up Suites with butler service, one truly feels looked after. The resort features two sky-sized pools, perfect for lounging under the sun, and the Coconut Grove lounge area is a serene spot to unwind with a cocktail in hand.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION While many top resorts are situated on nearby Paradise Island, Sandals Resort Bahamas enjoys a prime location on New Providence, the same island as Nassau. Upon your arrival at Lynden Pindling International Airport, you won’t have to worry about hailing a taxi. The resort offers complimentary shuttle transportation for all guests, ensuring a seamless journey. For those booking top-tier suites, you can indulge in private luxury transfers in a chauffeur-driven Rolls-Royce or Mercedes-Benz, adding a touch of elegance right from the start.

WHAT YOU LOVED

One of my favourite experiences was visiting Barefoot Cay, Sandals Royal Bahamian’s private island, just a five-

Photographs:

minute boat ride from the resort. This secluded slice of paradise features two tranquil beaches with calm waters, perfect for snorkelling, relaxing or swimming. The island is equipped with a pool, whirlpool, swim-up bar and a delightful restaurant — all included with your stay. As a solo traveller, escaping to this serene island was exactly what I needed. It offered a peaceful retreat with hammocks in shaded areas and private cabanas overlooking the crystal-clear water. The best part? The open-air spa, allowing me to fully embrace relaxation before heading back to the resort. The short boat ride means one can visit for an hour or spend the entire day soaking in the beauty and tranquillity.

DINING IN While you can order room service anytime, why bother

the Bahamas’ national bird. Outfitted in pinks and greens, La Plume serves exquisite French cuisine in a modern atmosphere. My top three meals: Saumon Niçoise, Canard à l’Orange, and the ever-classic Escargots à la Bourguignonne — a true culinary delight!

DINING LOCAL

Sandals Resorts offers “Island Inclusive,” a dining program off the resort to introduce, celebrate and support locally owned restaurants by giving Sandals guests access to some of the destinations’ top dining experiences – from a craft cocktail bar offering unique spirits in an upscale setting to a cosy café serving French and Mediterranean delights. Participants receive a US$250 voucher and off-site roundtrip transportation. My pick: Sapodilla Estate – Once a private home, Sapodilla is a womanlead business and provides an intimate culinary experience tucked away in a lush garden setting with live music and a fine dining menu. Staples include creamy Long Island corn chowder, lobster and shrimp linguine and chocolate molten cake.

WHAT COULD BE BETTER

when there are so many incredible dining options? Each of the 10 specialty restaurants has its own authentic ambience with artwork from local artists, and feature cuisine created by award-winning chefs. Worth ordering at Butch’s Island Chop House is the panko-crusted divers scallops with slow braised briskets and sweet potato mousseline. Simply mouthwatering. There are also two eclectic gourmet food trucks: Sweets ‘N’ Tings offers coffee drinks, grab-and-go treats and custom crêpes to start your day on a sweet note. Meanwhile, Coco Queen serves locally inspired tacos and fresh seafood, perfect for enjoying with the salty air and swaying palms. My favourite dish? The freshly made conch fritters. My favourite spot was La Plume, a stunning restaurant inspired by the vibrant feathers of the flamingo,

While the resort excels in creating a romantic atmosphere for couples, I noticed a missed opportunity to better cater to solo travellers. Additional activities or social events specifically designed for those travelling alone could enhance the experience and help foster connections among guests. Solo travellers can enjoy the luxury of the resort but would benefit from a few more tailored options to make their stay feel inclusive and engaging.

EXPLORE NASSAU IN STYLE

For guests staying in select butler suites and who love to drive, there’s an opportunity to explore the island in a complimentary MINI Cooper. Discover every inch of this Caribbean gem at your own pace, complete with a guided map to all the must-see spots in Nassau.

sandals.com/royal-bahamian/

ABOVE AND BEYOND

For discerning travellers seeking the ultimate all-inclusive escape, Impression Moxché by Secrets is redefining the concept of luxury.

MEXICO’S RIVIERA MAYA coastline is as idyllic as it gets. Turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea gently kiss the powder-soft white sand beaches, while a fringe of swaying palms dances along the edges. This enchanting coastline stretches for miles, weaving together secluded coves, ancient Mayan ruins, and eclectic beach towns. It’s a place where time slows down, and where luxury is defined by getting back to nature.

For discerning travellers seeking the ultimate all-inclusive escape, Impression Moxché by Secrets sets a new standard for naturemeets-ultra-luxury. Tucked within the gated Corasol residential community just north of downtown Playa del Carmen, this AAA Five Diamond resort is a dreamy design of oasis-style infinity pools, thatched bamboo, stone, and sand. This sets the scene for an elevated experience complete with exclusive suites, extravagant beachfront penthouses, and personalised butler service.

A hotel-within-a-hotel on the grounds of the Secrets® Moxché Playa del Carmen, guests enter through a private lobby into a sanctuary of sophistication. The resort’s 195 upscale suites are designed with rustic-chic modern decor and warm, earthy tones. Think luxurious marble bathrooms, rain showers, and furnished terraces — complete with soaking tubs to enjoy those stunning views. The design seamlessly blends indoor and outdoor, bringing the natural beauty of the Riviera Maya directly to your doorstep. A continuously replenished in-room rolling bar ensures you have everything you need without leaving your suite.

We love the Oceanfront Villas in particular for the front-row access to the Caribbean Sea, plus the private plunge pools, terraces, and outdoor showers. For ultimate privacy, the Beachfront SwimOut Suites feature direct pool access. The Penthouse Suite has panoramic ocean views, a private infinity pool, and an expansive living space. However even the entry-level suites are sure to

please, thanks to their expansive layouts, plus amenities like fully stocked minibars, robes and slippers, an espresso machine, and a pillow menu.

The poolside experience is flawless, with four secluded pools, including a lavish rooftop infinity pool with panoramic 360-degree views of the turquoise Caribbean and the island of Cozumel in the distance. For those who prefer the beach, Impression Moxché by Secrets delivers a beach club with a sugary shoreline, an additional pool, and a restaurant.

At Impression Moxché by Secrets, food is an art form. With 14 gourmet dining options between the resort and its neighbouring Secrets® Moxché Playa del Carmen, the culinary experience is a dizzying array of delicious. Best part? There is no need for reservations.

For the true foodie, Impression Moxché by Secrets offers three exclusive dining venues, including a rooftop restaurant, Cielo

Impression Rooftop. At the casual Seaside Beach Club, tuck into grilled seafood specialties. Embark on a seven-course tasting journey at Teodoro, a signature restaurant available to Impression by Secrets guests — a complimentary experience for those staying five nights or more. Guests in Master Suites have unlimited access.

Relaxation is redefined at Impression Moxché by Secrets, and the resort’s spa takes that seriously. Whether you’re in the mood for innovative treatments or traditional therapies, the 21 treatment cabins provide a haven for recovery and rejuvenation. The spa also offers an extensive menu of wellness options, including nutritional advice and treatments using locally sourced natural ingredients, for that added touch of personalised wellness extravagance.

For those who like to stay active, the resort’s location along the Riviera Maya provides easy access to water sports, from snorkelling to kayaking and paddle boarding. If golf is your game, the Corasol residential complex houses the Gran Coyote Golf Riviera Maya

course, an 18-hole masterpiece designed by PGA legend Nick Price. Just a short drive away is the renowned El Camaleon Mayakoba, another must-play course for golf enthusiasts.

Surrounded by the natural beauty of the Riviera Maya, Impression Moxché by Secrets immerses guests in a tropical world. Man-made cenotes offer a taste of the Yucatan’s unique features, bringing guests closer to the natural world without having to sacrifice creature comforts. If you’re feeling adventurous, the ancient Mayan cities of Tulum and Cobá are just a short drive away. Or, if you prefer to stay closer to the resort, Playa del Carmen’s buzzy Quinta Avenida is only 10 minutes away.

But above all else, what guests can expect at Impression Moxché by Secrets is the ultimate in relaxation and personalised service. Part of the Impressions by Secrets resorts experience is reimagining the all-inclusive concept. The Endless Privileges® luxury inclusions promise a next-level service in terms of compliments for your stay. Guests enjoy a welcome bottle of tequila or rum and sparkling wine and fresh fruit upon arrival. They also have access to 24-hour concierge services, 24-hour private in-suite dining, maid service three times daily, and a complimentary 25-minute wellness experience, just to name a few.

From the seclusion of spacious suites to the attention to detail through personalised butler service, the ability to dine wherever and whenever, and a perfect balance of activity and zen, Impression Moxché by Secrets is an all-inclusive escape a cut above the rest.

LET US TAKE YOU THERE

Did you know that Transat takes care of all the details, including your taking flight with the award-winning service on Air Transat, which Skytrax recognized as the world’s best leisure airline in 2024? Treat yourself and upgrade. Air Transat offers its guests the exclusive Club Class Cabin with priority check-in, seating, complimentary snacks, meal and wine, spirits and cocktails, spacious seats, 2 check-in luggage and more. Air Transat flies nonstop from Toronto to Cancun daily this winter.

Park Hyatt St. Kitts Nevis Peak Suite

Photographs: St. Kitts Tourism

+ Park Hyatt

St. Kitts Nevis

ISLAND SPOTLIGHT

ST. KITTS & NEVIS

THE ISLANDS OF ST. KITTS & NEVIS may be two separate islands, but they make up one beautifully diverse island nation – and a stunner of a nation, at that. Located in the string of islands known as the Lesser Antilles, St. Kitts & Nevis are just off the coast of Puerto Rico, and is one of the smallest countries in the Western Hemisphere.

St. Kitts is the largest of the two islands and is known for its lush rainforests, volcanic peaks, and postcard-worthy beaches. The most prominent feature of the island is Mount Liamuiga, a dormant volcano cloaked in greenery, and the backdrop for spectacular hikes. Beaches like Frigate Bay and South Friars Bay tempt visitors to frolic along the long stretches of powdery soft sand. Watering holes set up on the beach, where you can find locals sipping on sundowners and watching the world go by. This is barefoot luxury at its best.

Just across the water is Nevis, the smaller sibling that has a reputation for tranquil and unspoiled landscapes. The island is dominated by Nevis Peak, a stratovolcano wrapped in mist and verdant slopes. Together, the two islands have been shaped by tumultuous history, with influence from both European colonizers and Africans brought over by the slave trade. Today the vibrant culture shows influence from African, British, French and indigenous traditions.

WHERE TO STAY: The iconic Park Hyatt St. Kitts

Christophe Harbor unveiled a range of new upgrades and amenities at the end of 2023. The 124 rooms overlook the aquamarine waters of the Caribbean and feature spa-inspired bathrooms with rainfall showers. Elevated suites have rooftop decks, while bi-level penthouses or three-bedroom villas have private plunge or swimming pools. One of the newest features to be added is the Topgolf Swing Suite, a simulation suite where guests can choose from golf, football, and soccer, or watch a movie with family and friends in a private room with a large-screen television and cozy leather couches. The resort also opened the new Sea Urchin retail outlet, and Banana Bay Market, offering snacks and sundries.

OR SET SAIL WITH: Regent Seven Seas Cruises, Emerald Yacht Cruises, Oceania, Holland America, Royal Caribbean, Seabourn. To book with BOLD’s trusted partners: RSSC.com; or emeraldcruises.ca visitstkitts.com —Meagan Drillinger

Park Hyatt St. Kitts Welcome Walk

The Full English

How does a garden grow? At The Pig, a kitchen plot-to-table foodie haven, it feeds the body and enlivens the spirit. By Vivian Vassos

“DO YOU HAVE WELLIES I can borrow to muck about in the garden?” I ask The Pig.

“Yes, plenty of Wellies for you to borrow!”

The Pig replies.

This was a happy exchange, because I do love a muck-about in a garden, especially one with The Pig. There’s a cornucopia of surprise and delight – from funky purple broccoli and curly kale a zillion ways to funkier fungi sprouting like glistening stalagmites behind secret greenhouse doors.

The English spring weather is calling for rubber boots and layers, so I pick a pair of Hunters from the bright lineup

tucked under a bench to ward off the chill – but head chef Alex Proudman at The Pig in New Forest is smokin’ hot.

He has emerged from a hut, bearing a tray of freshly smoked salt – a whoosh of white, from the puff cloud of steam that enshrouds him, to his chef’s smock, like a magician revealed as the salt-smoker hut door swings wide. Proudman, along with kitchen gardener Alex Sultan, is taking us for a guided muckabout of Sultan’s domain – the bounty of which feeds the majority of Proudman’s menu. The chef’s having fun, especially when he invites us back to his kitchen, and pours us all a shot of damson liquor derived from one of Sultan’s fruit trees. But not before he reminds Sultan he’ll need fresh inspiration (of the garden

BOLD TASTE

Photographs: The Pig Hotel

variety) for tonight’s menu. Perhaps a few nasturtium blossoms for tonight’s grilled mackerel; or a head or two of cauliflower, to give it a romanesco twist with gallybagger cheese and a side of pickled shallots.

The Pig in New Forest is the original, the concept being “Rooms and Kitchen Garden Food.” A restaurant with rooms that sounds approachable and not precious (hence the name); a culinary-led hospitality offering that’s spread throughout England from New Forest in Brockenhurst to Bath to the Beach and beyond. Since it was launched by English hotelier Robin Hutson and his wife Judy, The Pig’s creative director, in 2011 with The Pig in New Forest, the company has been on a roll. “We’ve opened eight hotels over eight years since…” Pig chief executive officer Tom Ross says, while we sit by a crackling fire at The Pig near Bath, “…almost every year. It’s not unusual for us to do more than one property at a time.” Over those years, says Ross, the company has looked at about 40 possible locations.

And nothing should be too perfect. They try to leave the chips and cracks that keep these places authentic, says Ross. It’s a mishmash of shabby chic meets English Grandmama’s sitting room; prints of the fabric and the artwork varieties cover nearly all the available space, from overstuffed comfy couches to walls lined with themed art – flowers, horses, portraits – while floors are wonderfully mismatched tiles, dark hardwood beams in the rooms, while marble is a material of choice in the modern spacious baths. And what a bath; I’m partial to a soaker that helps my body fight the jet lag. A soothing massage in one of the property’s wee rustic potting sheds set back in the gardens among the wildflowers allows me to breathe.

IN 2023, the hospitality private equity KSL Capital Partners invested in a share of The Pig, and cash infusion has allowed the Hutsons to broaden their reach and as of this year, pull back as the chairman and creative director respectively. Ross will take the reins. Next up, the newly minted Pig and the Village Pub (this autumn) at Barnsley House in the Cotswolds. (“It's an absolutely sensationally beautiful building,” says Ross. “Everytime I see it, even now, I think it’s a perfect Pig hotel.”) Next year sees The Pig meeting the set-jetting trend, with the opening of Groombridge Place in Kent, spotted in the film Pride & Prejudice – and in time for the author Jane Austen’s 250th anniversary of her birth. The Pig on the farm, in Stratford-uponAvon, will also make its debut.

Apropos then that we start this food and foraging journey at the Pig near Bath, a city known as one of Austen’s haunts. There we find a kindred spirit. The Pig near Bath’s head chef is Sophie Fenlon, born in England, but raised in British Columbia. She’s surveying the bounty of head gardener Zack Jones. As she

Clockwise from left: The Pig - near Bath; The Pig founders Robin and Judy Hutson; Ham hock terrine with tarragon mayo from The Pig near Bath’s own pigs and kitchen garden.

walks, she runs her hands through herbs, releasing heady aromas, and clips the top of a frilly golden stalk of rhubarb and absentmindedly tucks it into her smock’s sleeve pocket. I ask her if the strict ethos of The Pig – serving only a 25 mile menu, from where more than two-thirds of its ingredients must come and the rest not too much further – is a challenge. “I actually like the challenge,” she says. “It gives me a chance to be creative and to have fun.” Speaking of fun, Fenlon attempted a bit of mischief when she added a dollop of Maple Syrup to her menu. She was busted, but you can’t blame a True North gal for trying. She makes up for it with her namesake roasted tomato soup. All is forgiven.

Fenlon depends on constant communication with Jones; they try to meet on a daily basis, sometimes Jones will tell Fenlon they’ve got a surplus of something, “say Jerusalem or sunchoke artichokes,” she says, “and that will be on the next day’s menu. We have a very good relationship.” Fenlon worked in a lot of big cities as a chef, “so you kind of lose touch with the food that you’re getting,” she says. “You don’t really know, necessarily, where it’s all coming from. A big part of me wanting to join The Pig hotels was because I wanted to reconnect with the food, really use the seasonal products and stay within that 25 miles.” The main menu is divided into columns, with veg/vegan dishes first, then meats and poultry, and then fish and seafood. Fenlon’s pork and venison dishes are both outstanding (and don’t miss anything that contains

Jones’s peppery greens or sweet forced rhubarb either).

At The Pig on the Beach, we’re invited to a sunset sparkling wine tasting, some of it English, which takes place in the enclosed gazebo on the lawn. It’s romantic, strolling along the path to the illuminated folly. So English. The room is lined with overstuffed banquettes and anchored in the middle by a circular settee that could be from the set of Downton Abbey. We’re greeted by Connar Baird, the property’s director of beverage, with a glass of Hugo, and the bubbles are flowing. We’re doing a comparison – is it French Champagne? Is it English sparkling? Is it terrible of me to say I like them all and, even with my semi-educated palate, can’t really tell a huge difference. I think, now quite rosy-cheeked, I’ve got a crush on Hugo.

I’ve come too early to try The Pig’s new launch, its own house wines, Alpaca Block Chardonnay and Alpaca Block Field Blend Rosé, out autumn 2024, made from grapes grown at The Pig in the South Downs, where the climate is increasingly allowing for the planting of vines. Where Eagles Fly (not when pigs fly) is a blend made from grapes on 40-year-old Pinot Meunier vines planted among some of the oldest surviving Seyval Blanc vines in Kent, at The Pig at Groombridge.

I do get to meet an actual pig, here at the beach, with a few egg-laying hens as well. But how to pick a Pig? “The property has got to appeal,” says Ross. “As you drive up the driveway, you have to be drawn in by it. There’s got to be something about it; it’s got to have character and a sense of place; it’s got to have people and an energy in the area that will also support it. We give it the ‘Darling Test:’ It’s got to sound exciting and fun to your partner: ‘Darling, we’re going to The Pig on the Beach.’ ‘Well,’ replies Darling, ‘that sounds fun!’” And it is.

That’ll do, Pig.

thepighotel.com

Clockwise from far left: The Pig - New Forest; CEO Tom Ross; the lookout suite at The Pig on the Beach; a view of the kitchen garden from the greenhouse; and crispy Poole Bay oysters, black garlic mayo and pickled cucumber, both The Pig on the Beach.

MOUNTAIN

There’s nothing quite like taking a sip at the top of Canada. By Vivian Vassos

I’MSITTING IN A LIGHT-FILLED ROOM, the warmth of the sun’s rays only defied by the snow-capped peaks that are my window’s view. I’m at Rundle Bar, snug in the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel, sipping on a Seedlip-spiked concoction, while soaking in the Rocky Mountains. It’s got to rank as a bar with the best view in the world; earlier in 2024, it was named as having the best patio in Canada by Canada’s 100 Best.

The keeper of this cocktail domain is Sam Clark, creative director of beverage at Banff Springs. Clark’s clearly not afraid of heights; recently promoted, he is formerly the regional bars manager at a few other western properties at Fairmont, including Chateau Lake Louise and Jasper Park Lodge. His “Mountain

High

Series” of cocktails are inspired by the three storied properties. Clark joins me on Rundle’s patio, and we start talking about the movement toward low to no alcohol in drinks. He orders the Peak, which is one of the juices from a local supplier that is on the menu.“It’s made with blue Spirulina,” Clark says of its striking, near-matching the sky’s blue. “Like they say, you eat with your eyes, here you drink with your eyes. It’s eye-catching.”

There’s a time and a place for theatrics, he says, “but having drinks that speak for themselves and allow me to highlight the hero spirit but, at the same time, garnishes are minimal, not too wasteful or overbearing, in a beautiful glass, it’s a really great drinking experience.” He tells me of a recent trip and being at a Brazilian barbecue restaurant in Amsterdam. The cocktails were so good, he recalls, but they weren’t on fire or over the top, and paired perfectly with the food. “So simple and beautifully presented; they were there, but the presentation didn’t take away from spending time with your friends,” he says. “That’s where I am taking Rundle Bar. There’s beauty in simplicity.”

Behind simplicity lies thought. The less is more ethos isn’t quite what Clark means. My non-alcoholic Berry Tea Collins cocktail features flavours of Seedlip Spice, Saskatoon Berry (an Alberta staple), lemonade and smoked black tea, mimicking a gin-meetsmescal-style sip. The bar also has its own namesake Rundle Gin, and offers a light version of tonic as a mixer. On another menu, Clark had the Mad Hatter, featuring Seedlip Grove as its hero,

Sam Clark

Photographs: Fairmont Banff Springs

with a splash of cranberry, lemon and, naturally, a syrup made from black tea, since it is a tea party the Hatter is throwing in Alice in Wonderland.

And a wonderland it is, from the “health-forward,” polyphenolboosted black tea to the vitamin C of lemon and cranberry – to the landscape itself. “There are really incredible ingredients throughout Alberta that motivate me to be creative,” says Banff Springs Hotel’s executive chef Atticus Garant, who has come over to say hello. “We’re so fortunate to have all this incredible agriculture, and this patio. I could sit on this patio and this view and just feel creative for hours,” he says as he waves his hand toward the towering Rundle Mountain in the near distance. “Just looking, it might be the colours, the green or the blue; it’s like sitting in a simulation; it’s so unreal all the time, even when it’s raining. That’s the thing, there are so many great restaurants like 1888 Chop House and Castello just in this hotel, it’s like playing in the ultimate culinary sandbox.”

Clark agrees. “Our non-alcoholic program has developed definitely from looking within Alberta and the ingredients that we have and the opportunity to showcase our producers,” he says. “And in collaboration with chef Atticus to tell the story that goes beyond just a cocktail that’s made with no alcohol; but still profiling our familiar flavours. Pineapple weed would be a great example of something that’s here in Alberta in abundance.”

Pineapple weed is pretty much wild chamomile and it grows like watercress and looks a little like dandelion, says Garant. The small yellow bud-like flowers are dried, sometimes made into a tea, or “I threw some into distilled [white] vinegar and let it sit; I ended up with this florally, almost fruity vinegar; I also roast up spruce tips, and blend with olive oil. Pair it with a torched white fish like Hamachi, and it works really really well.”

That’s where the collaboration between bar and chef is so important, adds Clark. Having access to ingredients the chef can get a hold of – “so, when chef talks about roasted spruce oil, then my head goes into, ‘okay how can I tap into that resource?’” It sparks that creativity in Clark, pushing him to think about what they can offer the guest, from a drinking experience, “whether it’s a local tea, a cocktail made with gin or tequila, with a hint of spruce oil garnish on top that’s going to add that depth of flavour.”

That’s what’s really exciting about being in Banff Springs, and working with Garant, he adds. “Putting our heads together over food and drink – let’s see how we can tell that story in a glass, as well as on the plate.” banff-springs-hotel.com

WINE NOT?

ON THE

HOMEFRONT

When winemaker Jonas Newman starts talking about sparkling wines, you can almost see the stars in his eyes. It was, in fact, a winemaker of a much earlier age who, when leaving the wine sitting a tad too long in the bottle first tasted what we now know as Champagne. It’s alleged that that winemaker, a French Benedictine Monk named Dom Pierre Perignon, uttered “Come quickly, I am tasting the stars! Newman is known for his Ontario sparkling wines, which he produces with his wife, Vicky Samaras, at Hinterland Winery. More recently, he’s been recruited by The Grange of Prince Edward Winery, along with viticulturalist Mike Peddlseden to grow the winery’s offerings. And boy, is it growing. This year, WineAlign awarded bronze medals to The Grange’s County Gamay, a red with hints of black cherry, plum and kirsch; and to the 2017 Lafontaine du Loup Rosé, a traditional method sparkling, showing off Newman’s talents and a refined finish on the palate. I took home a bottle of both – as well as the silver-medal winning Estate Series 2023 Pinot Gris.

During our visit, the tasting room was buzzing; lunch was also served, featuring chef Keirra Reid’s take on the best local ingredients of the County. Stars, indeed. grangewinery.com

FURTHER AFIELD

The Famiglia De Cerchio Wine Group of Abruzzo, Italy, launched its Torre Zambra Madia Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2021 in Canada in June 2024; introducing this organic, sustainable and vegan wine to an intimate gathering of media and oenophiles hosted by Torre owner Federico de Cerchio. It’s already scored major points with the likes of American wine critic James Suckling and Italian wine critic Luca Maroni, and will only set you back about $17. On its heels come two new releases, both 100 percent Montepulciano varietals: the Villamagna Riserva 2019 (DOC Villamagna), with a cellarability of 20 years; and the Colle Maggio 2021, which can sit in the wine cellar for about 10 years. Saluti! famigliadecerchio.it/en

ASK A LOCAL

THE HOTELIER

Franck Arnold, the managing director of The Savoy, gives us his insider guide to London. Prior to taking on the directorship of The Savoy, what’s considered one of the world’s greatest hotels, Arnold was the general manager at The Ritz-Carlton in Toronto. Here, he shares his BOLD List of what to do and where to go.

fOR A GREAT DINING EXPERIENCE outside of The Savoy, go to Arlington, which opened in March this year by legendary restaurateur, Jeremy King. Arlington is the revival of Le Caprice, which was the place to go and a regular haunt for royals and rock stars during the ‘80s and ‘90s. It’s still an experience in the ‘who’s who’ of dining and a sure spot for good food at a decent price and a fantastic atmosphere. It’s very ‘London.’

For a true fine dining experience, head to Gordon Ramsay’s three Michelin-star, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, in Chelsea. You are guaranteed a superb and memorable experience.

I love Borough Market where the home chef will be in their element, browsing amongst the fresh fish, seafood, charcuterie, bakeries, cheese and wines. There’s also a plethora of ethnic restaurants to try out. Go to The Ginger Pig and get the best sausage roll you’ll ever eat. And just have fun walking around looking at everything… It’s so vibrant.

The Tower of London near the Tower Bridge is worth a visit. My top tip for ‘beyond the beaten track’ is the Ceremony of the Keys, a unique ceremony that has been taking place since the 14th century. It’s one of the oldest surviving enactments of its time. It allows visitors to see the Tower of London at night when it’s closed to the public.

Covent Garden is right on our doorstep here at The Savoy and is a real privilege of our location. There are many great restaurants, high end shops, boutiques… it’s so versatile. It’s also right in the middle of the theatre district and one of the most popular places in London, which gives it real character.

I would also recommend taking a stroll through Soho, which is also right on our doorstep (our location really is the best in town!). Spend an evening wandering, go into a pub, have something to eat in one of the restaurants. Breathe in the atmosphere, it’s extraordinary.

I first came to London to work in 1992 and got to know Camden Town, which is still a unique London location. The breadth of characters you find there has always fascinated me. You won’t find anywhere else like it in the world.

Enjoy the Royal Parks. Regent’s Park is my favourite. If you’re up early, you’ll see Londoners cycling through at 6am on their way to work. In the summer there are fantastic concerts, like the music in Hyde Park. thesavoylondon.com — as told to Vivian Vassos

Franck Arnold

The Savoy Lounge

Jeremy King's Arlington restaurant; fresh offerings are on the menu (below, right)

Photographs: The Savoy; Arlington Restaurant; Visit Britain

BEAUTY ESSENTIALS

Maybelline Sky High Mascara Lash

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Editor’s Pick

The beauty gets we’re loving now. By Vivian Vassos

Burberry Goddess Eau de Parfum Gorgeous square bottle, signature vanilla scent, a drop of woodsy smoke and a hint of lavender – what’s not to love? shoppersdrugmart.ca

Trinny London Just Joyous lipstick It hydrates with hyaluronic acid and plumps with peptides, adds buildable colour in 11 lovely shades, is TSA friendly and adds a touch of glossy sheen. Kiss, kiss. trinnylondon.com

Belif Aqua bomb depuffing eye gel with Caffeine + Hyaluronic Acid This new Korean skincare formula battles puffiness and dark circles, brightens and energizes with caffeine, hydrating hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and vitamin C. It’s a long haul flight’s best friend. sephora.com/ca/en/

The Tower Bridge

FAVOURITE TRAVEL

DESTINATION I enjoy travelling to big cities where there is a lot of energy, buzz and art. I feed off of that pulse and it excites me, which is why New York City and Paris are my favourite places to travel to.

DREAM TRAVEL DESTINATION

S AMY CHANG

TANDING OUT FROM THE CROWD in the digital beauty space is no easy feat, but Amy Chang - amychang - is not your average beauty influencer. With more than 1.6 million dedicated followers on tiktok and 598k on Instagram, Chang is anything but ordinary. Sharing her meticulously vetted and thoroughly researched beauty finds alongside relatable content about motherhood, niche topics like hair loss, adult acne and her personal adoption journey, Chang connects with women everywhere – online and off. Whether she is travelling across the globe, sharing her knowledge at a beauty conference, shaking her crystal-filled locks at a live concert, or making arts and crafts with her two little ones, Chang is a tastemaker with her manicured finger on the pulse. Here, Brittany Johnson gets the inside scoop.

Ever since I was a little kid I have always wanted to travel to Egypt and see the great pyramids of Giza! I plan on taking my girls there when they’re older.

FAVOURITE TRAVEL MEMORY

My husband and I recently took our two daughters to New York City and we did a tour of the Metropolitan Museum. We hired a tour guide and it was a lot of fun showing the girls the Egyptian artefacts and the knight’s armour (my girls are into princesses, lol) and paintings of queens and kings. I love that travel memory because it brought me a lot of joy sharing one of my passions – art, with my girls.

LED light mask. I have been using it for years and am always amazed at its ability to soothe inflamed skin – breakouts, redness and even help with inflammatoryinduced pigmentation. Red LED light is proven by studies to help with inflammatory skin issues and these types of face masks are so easy to use.

FAVOURITE BEAUTY TREATMENT

I love getting HydraFacials! There was a period of time last year where I went to get one every 4 - 6 weeks and my skin was flawless – no breakouts, no clogged pores.

TOP BEAUTY

TIP

Listen to your skin! Do not force something onto your skin just because it’s trending. If you notice something irritates your skin or stings a little upon application, wash it off right away and just know it’s not for you.

BEAUTY INSPIRATION My mom was my first beauty inspiration. She sparked my initial love of makeup and skincare. I watched my mother every day apply a full face of makeup. My mom is 74 and, to this day, and she still wears lipstick and foundation and looks so glamorous. Once that spark was there, my second beauty inspiration fanned the flames –

SunHee Grinnell. She was the former beauty director at Vanity Fair and I read the magazine religiously looking for her beauty articles and recommendations. She deepened my love for the world of beauty. And when I got to meet SunHee in real life for the first time five years ago, it was such a dream! I look up to her so much as an Asian American woman in the beauty space who paved the way for other AAPI women to be here.

DREAM BRAND

COLLABORATION I would love to collaborate with Netflix! They’re on my vision board!

MOST ASKED BEAUTY

QUESTION “What to do about breakouts?” My answer: do everything and anything you can to reduce inflammation – red LED lights, soothing cold chamomile tea bag compresses (steep tea bags, then put them in the freezer and use them as cold compresses on a pimple), white willow bark or BHA (both reduce inflammation), and barrier supporting serums or moisturisers.

DREAM SPA DESTINATION Asia is known for its spas. I would love to go to Japan and spend a week in an Onsen just soaking in hot springs and eating delicious Japanese food.

WHAT IS ALWAYS IN YOUR TRAVEL CARRY-ON I know some poo-poo doing skincare on a flight, but I love doing my skincare routine on a long-haul before going to sleep. I bring the works: a mini Garnier micellar bottle, a hypochlorous acid mist (currently loving the Avenova one, which is in a small bottle so it’s great for travel), a barrier support serum like cocokind’s Ceramide Barrier Serum, and a rich moisturiser (currently been loving the PCA HydraBright moisturiser). And I always bring Summer Friday’s Jet Lag Mask and the Rhode Peptide Lip with me!

Amy Chang’ s

TOP 3 DESERT ISLAND PRODUCTS

1. Allies of Skin EGF Growth Factor & Peptide Serum: growth factors are incredible at stimulating cellular regeneration, promoting the formation of collagen to make skin bouncy and youthful looking. I have been using this serum for almost a year and absolutely cannot live without it.

2. Kosas Dream Beam SPF: this is one of my favourite mineral tinted spfs. I struggle with melasma, so using a tinted spf is important for me because the tint helps block visible/blue light that can trigger my melasma. I also love how dewy this makes my skin look and it evens out skin imperfections.

3. California Naturals two-in-one: I love how gentle this shampoo/ conditioner duo is. I use it on my girls as it’s perfect for kids since there’s no suds, no tears. It makes my hair really soft and would be a perfect multifunctioning product for a desert island situation.

YOUR DEFINITION OF “LIVING BOLDLY” Going after your dreams. Most people wait for their dreams to happen to them, but my mother always taught me to never wait for what you want – go after it. 1

WHAT

TO PACK FOR

Nicaragua

Exploring the land of lakes and volcanoes

tHIS LESSER-TRAVELLED

Central-America gem is shaking off its secondfiddle past. No longer the understudy to Costa Rica or Belize, the country is ready to share its diverse natural wonders – unspoiled sandy beaches and lush rainforests, naturally, which live in harmony alongside ancient volcanic landscapes and peaceful lagoons.

Adventure is Nicaragua’s middle name: volcano surfing and ziplining are what the cool explorers are doing now; physically exhilarating, yes, but it also serves up luxurious getaway vibes with coastal retreats that are considered among the best in the region. Charming colonial cities are famous for their architecture, superior coffee (good morning!), chocolate (how sweet!) and artisanal crafts share Nicaraguan culture and tradition.

Getaway experiences, such as those at Rancho Santana – affectionately known

as “The Ranch” – allow one to get to know Nicaraguans on a deeper level. The expansive, eco-friendly resort and residential enclave sprawls across 2,700 acres of Nicaragua’s pristine Emerald Coast. Miles of green where raindrops cascade from the rainforest canopy while hummingbirds and butterflies dance around you are a living-in-the-moment affair. In the heart of the jungle, the calls of monkeys and the melodies of birds fill the atmosphere with nature’s song.

The Ranch features a variety of lodging options, from spacious rooms and suites at The Inn to condo-style residences and homes with ocean views. This seaside escape is both an adventurer’s enclave and a wellness sanctuary. It features five distinct beaches and three swimming pools, along with a sea turtle sanctuary. The Spa in El Bosque is a 6,000-squarefoot treetop retreat; yoga is practiced at the ocean-view pavilion. Chefs showcase fresh ingredients from a wealth of sources:

the property’s 50-acre farm, its sevenacre garden and by also supporting local suppliers.

It’s here you can feel the thrill of surfing Central America’s top waves, horseback riding on the beach, sandboarding on coastal dunes, hiking, birdwatching and participating in nature tours – all without leaving Rancho Santana. Under the radar? No longer. It seems we’ve let the secret of Nicaragua out. ranchosantana.com, visitnicaragua.us — RMC

Photograph: Rancho Santana

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Ancient Greek Sandals

Iris embellished leather sandals, $315, net-a-porter.com/en-ca/

Mercedes Salazar Tassel earrings, $186, int.mercedessalazar.com

Emporio Sirenuse Sarah printed cotton-poplin kaftan, $712, net-a-porter.com/en-ca/

Yves Saint Laurent SL 552 Cat Eye sunglasses, $490, holtrenfrew.com

Farm Rio Lace Garden printed tiered cotton-voile midi dress, $393, net-a-porter.com/en-ca/

Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen Invisible Broad Spectrum SPF 40 PA +, $52, 50ml, sephora.com/ca/en/

Rimowa Essential Red Gloss carry on, $1,175, rimowa.com

Fragrance Du Bois Wild Orange Day Eau de Parfum, $550, 100ml, fragrancedubois.com

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Mercedes Salazar Jungle Paradise handbag, $308

I REGENT, THE MOST-INCLUSIVE CRUISE LINE

T’S AN EXCITING time to set sail with Regent Seven Seas Cruises®. The cruise line’s sixth ship, Seven Seas Grandeur®, made her debut in November 2023 and, with only 746 guests, she is among the most spacious sailing vessels per passenger on the water. Since her launch, Seven Seas Grandeur has made the transatlantic crossing with ease, sailing the Caribbean and the Mediterranean. For more than 30 years, Regent Seven Seas Cruises, the world’s leading luxury cruise line, has offered its guests its Unrivaled Experience. What started out as good beginnings in 1991 is now a flawless sparkling gem of the sea. And the Regent standard truly is all-in with the most inclusive unrivaled experience beginning before you even come onboard. When you arrive, you’ll find no hidden extras, no surcharge for the best dining spot on the ship, no battling for the wifi password, no worries about working out the tip for the barman or the butler. Just unpack once, and see the world.

But there’s more. For Regent, it also means giving guests the ultimate voyage and exclusive immersive experiences. Regent has expanded its new cruise collection with the Immersive Overnights series, which allows guests to stay longer – two nights – in each of the ports of call on these itineraries. A Geisha performance in Kyoto, Michelin-star dining by the seaside in Athens, or a starry night stroll through romantic Rome, are just a few of the immersive experiences on a cruise from the Immersive Overnights series. Guests can even have dinner in Helsinki during the famed White Nights season, when the city is awash in a never-ending sunset glow.

Speaking of sunsets, wine-tasting at the golden hour in Tuscany is part of the brand new Sunset Over Tuscany Mediterranean sailing, where you cruise from Venice, Italy, to Marseille, France. Along the way, make immersive overnight journeys in Lucca, Malta and Naples, before finishing in Provence. The series has added 24 new shore excursions for a total of 50; and 12 new land programs. Delight in a Kobe beef at dinner in Japan, sip on Croatian wines surrounded by the vines or take a leisurely drive along the storied Amalfi Coast in Italy.

And don’t forget Regent’s unrivaled experiences: Shore excursions – day or night – are included in Regent’s revolutionary unlimited shore excursion program. The voyage fare includes gourmet cuisine on all Regent Seven Seas Cruises ships’ spectacular specialty restaurants and al fresco dining spots, a sommelier-approved wine list and mixologist’s pick of spirits, entertainment, valet laundry service and so much more. For guests staying in Concierge-level suites and higher, beat the jetlag and start your journey sooner with Regent’s one-night, pre-cruise hotel package.

“We are incredibly excited to offer such a diverse selection of travel experiences to enrich our unique Immersive Overnights collection, as well as adding a completely new itinerary for guests to enjoy,” said Andrea DeMarco, President of Regent Seven Seas Cruises. “The collection features an overnight stay and multiple days in every single port of call, allowing discerning travellers the opportunity to truly immerse themselves in Europe and Asia’s rich history and vibrant cultures, all while reveling in spacious all-suite accommodations and personalized service onboard The World’s Most Luxurious Fleet®.” This is slow travel at its best.

Being on board a luxury Regent Seven Seas ship is like living in a boutique hotel. Service, staff, space – all at a level of excellence for the 490 to 750 guests across the six-ship RSSC portfolio. The all-suite ships feature all-balcony accommodations. And the luxury of unpacking once but having the experience of visiting different destinations over the course of your journey, and then returning to your spacious home-away-from-home. From the mini-bar stocked to your liking, to the marble bathrooms, walk-in closets and cozy sitting areas – and the largest balconies at sea – you’ll always feel there’s plenty of room for everything.

No matter which of Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ fleet of six ships you choose to set sail on, there are more than 4,000 included shore excursions across 550 destinations to experience. Of course, there are also options for pre- or post-cruise stays, which are meticulously curated by Regent’s expert shore excursion teams.

Immersive, innovative, incomparable. Regent, unrivaled.

For more information, please visit RSSC.com, call 1-844-4REGENT (1.844.473.4368) or contact a professional travel advisor.

WHAT TO BOOK:

WE LOVE THE BRAND NEW Sunset Over Tuscany Mediterranean sailing, but here are three more to consider. Another brilliant idea: Regent’s impressive mid-cruise land programs, which provide the chance to stay in-destination, travel deeper and explore over multiple days ashore. Hotels, local cuisine, tastings and tours are just part of the fun. From relaxing in natural hot springs in Tuscany or standing among the ruins of Herculaneum to a hands-on cooking class on the Amalfi Coast – a two-night land program could even see you immersed in the history of Berlin and its sister-city Potsdam. Prices start from $999 per guest. Happy sailing!

Seven Seas Voyager

Adriatic Elegance

Trieste, Italy to Athens (Piraeus), Greece

October 5, 2024 – 10 nights

Experience Immersive Overnights in three of the Adriatic’s finest cities – Trieste, Italy; Zadar, Croatia; and Kotor, Montenegro – before sailing to Athens (Piraeus) for two nights on this elegant 10-night adventure. From Croatian nightlife to the ancient wonders of Greece’s Peloponnese peninsula and more. New shore excursions include “Exquisite Rome by Night” and “Dinner by the Sea at Posta Vecchia.”

Seven Seas Explorer

Blossoms, Towers and Temples

Tokyo, Japan to Tokyo, Japan

March 5, 2025 – 14 nights

Embarking from Tokyo, guests will experience Immersive Overnights in Kyoto (via Kobe), Japan; Seoul (Incheon), South Korea; Shanghai, China; and Japan’s glittering capital Tokyo on this 14-night Asian adventure. New shore excursions include “Kobe Beef Dinner Experience” and “Geisha Performance with Dinner.”

Seven Seas Navigator

Enchantment in Northern Europe

Copenhagen to Stockholm

June 27, 2025 – 10 nights

Immersive Overnights in Copenhagen, Denmark; Berlin (Warnemunde, 2 nights); Helsinki, Finland; and Stockholm, Sweden (2 nights) on this 10-night exploration of some of Northern Europe’s most culturally rich cities. Spend more time exploring historic Berlin and royal Potsdam. New shore excursions include “White Nights Helsinki Cruise” and “Shadows of Rostock & Night Watchmen.”

BOOK NOW: RSSC .com or call 1-844-4REGENT (1.844.473.4368) or contact a professional travel advisor.

THE BOLD CRUISE REPORT

On the water

TO TAKE A CRUISE now is not the cruise of your grandmother’s era. Of course, high quality service and black tie evenings still sometimes are on the agenda (and why not!), but there’s a whole new adventure that awaits.

Whether it’s sailing into the far reaches of the Antarctic or up the narrowest of Norway’s fjords, ships are state-of-the-art, allowing for diving deep into the heart of diverse cultures and landscapes that are somehow more awe-inspiring when viewed from the water. Today’s cruise ships are designed to offer immersive experiences that are as much a holiday as they are an educational journey. Expert guides, accomplished naturalists, lauded chefs and more enrich the mind and the body. With all of this readily on deck, a traveller who chooses to cruise may board a novice and yet disembark an expert. Sound good? We think so too. To help you make your cruise plans, allow us to present the BOLD guide to cruising now.

50 SHIP REVIEW Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ Grandeur

52 PORTS OF CALL Take an extra day or two before you embark – or after you disembark – in some of the world’s best cruise ports.

54 PORT CITY ESCAPES Enhance cruise getaways and linger longer with a bonus mini-stay (or two!) at a captivating land destination near your departure point.

62 HEALTH FIX Taking a well-being approach on the water.

64 CRUISING TWO WAYS Sailing the Dalmatian Coast with Emerald’s Azzurra and Windstar’s Wind Surf.

68 DINING & DRINKING How to sail and work up an appetite on board the Vista, Oceania’s first new ship in more than a decade.

ifand unequivocal indulgence of a ship, it is the Fabergé egg enameled in shades of the sea and embellished with white pearls, spinning sublimely in the atrium lobby heart of Regent’s Seven Seas Grandeur. Named Journey in Jewels, the exquisite creation – honouring the ship’s godmother, Sarah Fabergé, great-granddaughter of Peter Carl Fabergé – speaks volumes of the quest for magnificence by Regent Seven Seas Cruises (RSSC), itself trademarked as The World’s Most Luxurious Fleet.

Experiencing Grandeur on a short cruise, I learned the all-suite, all-balcony, all-inclusive ship was meticulously crafted to embody a cruise environment craved by people accustomed to splendid surroundings, service and food, as well

to-space and guest-to-cruise ratios at sea.

ARTISTIC AESTHETIC

Artistically inspired by art nouveau, Grandeur projects an aura of quiet opulence; its elegant spaces are decorated with a multi-million-dollar 1,600-piece art collection, including three original Picassos. Among my favourite spaces to relax, the Observation Lounge on Deck 11 is stunning by day with panoramic ocean views, but breathtaking by night when illuminated by a massive, flowershaped light fixture spanning the ceiling. The serene library is a lovely place for quiet repose, its vast windows overlooking distant horizons.

DINING IS A SUMPTUOUS AFFAIR

Dining on Grandeur is delicious to the palate and gorgeous to the eye. A wall of

with sashimi grade tuna stacked on crisp lettuce and asparagus spears, capped with sliced peppers and a black olive. Salmon appeared in a bowl of broth topped with tiny, diced vegetables. The magnificent glass Bonsai Cherry Tree sculpture gracing the foyer of the Asianinspired Pacific Rim restaurant leads to a romantic teahouse atmosphere for tasting fragrant and mouth-watering Asian delicacies. Regent’s signature Compass Rose Dining Room evokes the atmosphere of an enchanted forest, its archways embedded with sparkling crystals. While its unique menu concept allows guests to customize entrées with various sauces and side dishes, I was surprised to see guests order whole lobsters as appetizers for their filet mignons. Other guests raved about Prime 7 Manhattan-style steakhouse, notably housing original art by Picasso.

Photographs: Regent Seven Seas Cruises

ACTIVITIES GALORE

SWEET SUITES

While some guests didn’t mind the drizzle for outdoor pickleball, bocce, or golf on the putting course inspired by famous golf courses, I preferred indoor indulgences in the Serene Spa and Wellness Center with its sauna, steam and cold rooms. In the Culinary Arts Kitchen, I learned to create Pasta Limone (lemon pasta) and French crepes.

Like the ship’s public spaces, Grandeur’s varied accommodations are elegantly designed with bespoke finishes. Most expansive, the lavish two-bedroom Regent suite houses original artworks by Picasso, a Steinway Baby Grand piano, plus a private sauna and spa. Ensconced in a Superior Veranda Suite (sans butler), I was delighted by the luxuriant space featuring a wide balcony with a table and chaises longues, separate sleeping and living areas, and the marble-clad bathroom with twin sinks, big shower and deep soaking tub. Seeing L’Occitane amenities from Provence, I couldn’t wait to linger in a bubble bath. Impressive touches included a buffet counter set with Champagne, flowers and fresh fruit.

ALL-INCLUSIVE STYLE

While Grandeur is the newest in RSSC’s fleet – sister to Seven Seas Splendor and Seven Seas Explorer – each of its six ships is a destination unto itself, providing the sensations of a luxury resort for guests who appreciate a sophisticated travel experience with attentive service and superb cuisine. RSSC’s all-inclusive style includes gratuities, no-fee dining at all specialty restaurants with top quality wines, complimentary access to all spa areas, and unlimited, immersive shore excursions led by expert guides. My memorable RSSC experiences include exploring Asia on Seven Seas Navigator, and the Mediterranean on Seven Seas Voyager.

What to book

As Regent Seven Seas Cruises span the globe, with itineraries ranging from seven to 16-nights, guests have myriad choices for 2025 and beyond.

My top pick for gourmands and oenophiles, Seven Seas Grandeur’s 11-night Epicurean Escape from Lisbon to London (Southampton) in February includes tasty experiences in Portugal’s historic Porto, and the lush winery regions of France’s Bordeaux and Normandy, enhanced with cultural experiences along the way.

Sunseekers and adventurers are sure to revel in Seven Seas Grandeur’s 14-night Colorful Caribbean Shores itinerary looping from Miami in March for the ultimate winter escape. Along the way, port excursions include snorkeling in Aruba, exploring Grenada by jeep, spelunking in Barbados’ famed Harrison’s Cave, and swimming with stingrays in Antigua.

For a scenic Asia experience, Seven Seas Explorer’s 14-night Iconic Asian Capitals itinerary from Hong Kong to Tokyo in February provides incredibly easy access to sites that would be difficult to organize independently. Excursions include highlights of Ishigaki in Japan; a high-speed ride on the 21st Century Shanghai & Maglev Train to Shanghai, China; tours and a tea ceremony in Busan, South Korea; and the most revered sites of Osaka, Japan. rssc.com

TO PRE- OR APRÈS SAIL?

That is the question. Tim Johnson says yes, take an extra day or two before you embark –or after you disembark – in some of the world’s best cruise ports

VERY CRUISE IS A WONDER: step onto the ship, arrive in your state room, unpack your bags, and then wait for the world to come to you. And, while not all port cities are created equal, some are true standouts – and worth booking a voyage that either departs or arrives there, so you can spend a few days enjoying and exploring. Here are four of our favourites from around the world.

1. Sydney, Australia

YOU’LL NEVER FORGET SAILING into Sydney. Often done at daybreak, your ship will navigate past the “Heads,” towering sandstone promontories that guard the two-kilometre-wide entrance to one of the world’s greatest urban harbours. From there, it’s all icons and beauty – passing under the soaring Harbour Bridge, past the white “sails” of the Opera House, toward the glassy skyline.

Once you dock, you’ll find the Overseas Passenger Terminal is right in the middle of The Rocks, one of Sydney’s coolest districts. Walk the cobblestones to historic bars and restaurants. And there’s so much more, just beyond, all within an easy stroll – the Royal Botanic Garden, the galleries and museums in the CBD, maybe lunch at the House Canteen, right inside the Opera House. From there, hop on a little ferry at Circular Quay to find your own hidden beach on the bays and coves nearby.

Photograph: Sydney, New South Wales/Tourism Australia

WHO SAILS HERE? Sydney is a major port for cruises bound for the South Pacific, as well as New Zealand and other parts of Australia. Many lines call here, including Regent Seven Seas Cruises, Cunard, Silversea and Royal Caribbean.

2. Athens /Piraeus

BUILT BACK IN THE 5TH CENTURY

BC, the port at Piraeus has been receiving ships for a very long time. Sitting just eight kilometres southwest of Athens, the harbour itself is busy and fascinating, a mix of big and small vessels, all going somewhere, often in a hurry. Blue Star ferries headed for the Isles, hardworking fishing boats coming in with their catch, plus luxury yachts, little sailboats and cruise ships. But nobody lingers long at the port, especially with so many ancient wonders awaiting, just up the road.

You can hop on the metro (cost: less than $2) and ride right into the heart of town. Alighting at Monastiraki Square, you won’t quite believe your eyes. Look up, right there, seeming to hover above it all, is the unmistakably legendary form of the Acropolis. Visit the main sites first

– the Parthenon and the (truly fabulous) Acropolis Museum. Then enjoy some time hanging around Plaka, the old town. Browse along Ermou, the main pedestrian shopping street. Then take your pick of sidewalk cafes and restaurants serving all your favourite Greek bites, from souvlaki with homemade tzatziki to moussaka and dolmades and a heaping salad adorned with a huge chunk of feta. WHO SAILS HERE? Piraeus is Europe’s fourth busiest passenger port, and a major start or finish point especially for Mediterranean and Greek Islands cruises, including those by Emerald Cruises yachts, Regent Seven Seas Cruises, Scenic Cruises, MSC Cruises and Explora Journeys.

3. Tokyo / Yokohama

WHILE SOME SHIPS USE TOKYO’S International Cruise Terminal, many Tokyo/Japan cruises will actually sail from Yokohama, about half an hour away. It is a very interesting city on its own, home to almost four million people. Off the ship, you can stroll the redeveloped waterfront among red-brick warehouses renovated into shops and restaurants. And you really shouldn’t miss one of the world’s coolest food museums. The Cup Noodles Museum lets you pretend you’re a noodle making its way through the factory, then guides you to make your own chicken ramen, before visiting the downstairs, allnoodle bazaar for lunch.

And all that Tokyo offers is nearby. Just hop on the subway. With a city like this – vast, almost unknowable, so much to see and do – where do you even start? Hopping on the Tokyo rail line will take

you to the lights of Shibuya in about 36 minutes. Get swept away at its famous scramble crossing, where as many as 3,000 people cross the road, all at once, at any given time. Then the rest of the Japanese capital awaits: temples and the Imperial Palace and the national garden, sushi and curry and okonomiyaki, the shops of Ginza, sumo, baseball, and so much more.

WHO SAILS HERE? Yokohama and Tokyo are major cruise ports for Japan and Southeast Asia cruises, including both of Scenic’s luxurious discovery yachts, Eclipse I and II. Norwegian, Regent Seven Seas Cruises and Holland America Line also make stops, among many other cruise lines.

4. Amsterdam

THIS CITY IS PEACE-LOVING and freewheeling, carved up by hundreds of canals and crisscrossed with so many bike lanes. Home to works by the likes of Van Gogh and Rembrandt. A place for Panenkoeken, and stroopwafels, and those perfect crispy little cups of French fries (always dipped in fritessauce). In so many ways: Amsterdam is just the best.

Fortunately, many river cruises leave from the central part of the city. They’ll sail out over the Dutch lowlands, past picture-perfect windmills en route to the Rhine. But definitely spend a few days here before embarking, visiting the masters at the Rijksmuseum, joining shoppers on De Negen Straatjes, and just maybe taking a walk along the tulips.

WHO SAILS HERE? Many river cruise lines, including lovely, sleek and upscale AmaWaterways ships, Uniworld River Cruises and Emerald Cruises.

SmoothSailing

Enhance cruise getaways and linger longer with a bonus mini-stay (or two!) at a captivating land destination near your departure point. By Aaron Rasmussen

PORT CITY ESCAPES

Photographs Courtesy

Of The Resorts

CURE POST-CRUISE CABIN FEVER with a retreat to the serene boutique hotel The Roundtree, located in the heart of Amagansett on eastern Long Island. Tucked between the famed Amber Waves Farm and Balsam Farms, this historic property dates back centuries and provides a tranquil break that’s easily accessible via train from New York City.

Unlike flashier Hamptons hotspots, The Roundtree exudes a vibe of privacy over parties. Accommodations in shingle-clad cozy cottages or a refurbished 250-year-old barn embrace the essence of quiet luxury. Here, the soothing symphony of chirping cardinals, cawing crows and the thud of beanbags during games of cornhole in the shadow of a silo set the perfect tone. Each evening, guests gather around firepits to roast s’mores, or relax in basket chairs suspended from trees that dot the sweeping lawn.

This member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World equips guests with bicycles to explore the nearby Atlantic Ocean beaches, where The Roundtree also has a five-bedroom house, once owned by playwright/screenwriter Neil Simon, available for guest stays of at least two weeks.

Autumn’s arrival brings a dreamy transformation to The Roundtree’s outdoor spaces, with technicolour leaves floating gently to the ground and the fragrant scent of woodsmoke wisping through the crisp air. Inside, beds adorned with Frette linens and plush bedding create a cloud-like sleep oasis in rooms designed in soothing Scandinavian hues of white and grey. Instead of the rhythmic lull of lapping ocean waves, let the distant train whistles and the gentle chorus of crickets serenade you to sleep.

BONUS TRIP: The Hudson Valley, just a short hop north of New York City, is home to a selection of high-end lodges, including the estate hotel Troutbeck. Set on 250 acres in Amenia, this wellness refuge is dedicated to rest, relaxation and rejuvenation.

SET SAIL WITH: Regent Seven Seas, Cunard Line, Viking Cruises, MSC Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Norwegian Cruise Line. To book with BOLD’s trusted partners: RSSC.com; or msccruises.ca, theroundtreehotels.com, troutbeck.com

NEW YORK CITY TO THE HAMPTONS

Roundtree bikes in Amagansett Square

LOS ANGELES TO PALM SPRINGS

FOR LANDLUBBERS HOPING to regain their sea legs, an escape to the sun-drenched desert is just what the captain ordered.

The 22-key, 230-acre sanctuary Sensei Porcupine Creek in Rancho Mirage, a 20-minute drive from Palm Springs, basks in the glow of the Santa Rosa Mountains. Once the personal haven of Silicon Valley billionaire Larry Ellison, this opulent resort offers a seamless blend of relaxation and adventure.

The manicured greens of the Coachella Valley property’s worldclass 75-acre course provide golfers with breathtaking desert scenes. Time spent on the links – highlighted by the 217-yard 15th hole with its dramatic 220-foot elevation drop – is rewarded with an afternoon outdoor treatment in one of the spa’s idyllic garden rooms.

For those eager to explore the storied glitz and glamour of historic Palm Springs, rent an e-bicycle at BIKE Palm Springs and embark on a self-guided tour of this old-school Hollywood outpost’s most iconic sites. Start the journey at Seward Johnson’s towering 26-foot-tall, 12-ton sculpture Forever Marilyn, her windblown skirt in a permanent twirl high above the walkway leading to the Palm Springs Art Museum. Just a zoom away lies Monroe’s

former home, a masterpiece designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in the Old Las Palmas neighbourhood.

The legendary House of Tomorrow, famously known as Elvis’ Honeymoon Hideaway, is another must-see showstopper. Built in 1960, a bay of windows on the residential gem resembles the bridge of a cruise ship, a fitting homage to your post- or precruise bonus break. Zip across town to seek out Frank Sinatra’s surprisingly modest abode, or venture into the Indian Canyons neighbourhood to admire the many vibrant, candy-coloured doors fronting its resident mid-century modern masterpieces.

BONUS TRIP: Take in sweeping views along the Pacific Coast Highway as you head north to Santa Barbara. Renowned for its historic architecture, stunning beaches and upscale shopping, the city epitomizes sophisticated Californian allure.

SET SAIL WITH: Silversea, Regent Seven Seas, Cunard Line, Oceania Cruises, Princess, Royal Caribbean International, Seabourn, Celebrity. To book with BOLD’s trusted partners: RSSC.com, sensei.com, santabarbaraca.com

The pool at Sensei Porcupine Creek

The yoga pavillion at Sensei Porcupine Creek

TUCKED MIDWAY DOWN the Florida Keys, the 60-acre Hawks Cay Resort on the isle of Duck Key is an ideal destination for cruisers unwilling to bid farewell to their best aquatic life. Bottlenose dolphins frolicking in the aquamarine waters off the island enhance the spirit by cheerily greeting guests to the sprawling getaway that features a full-service marina, saltwater lagoon and five swimming pools.

Hawks Cay is a sanctuary for water enthusiasts that blends luxury and activities. Whether you’re drawn to diving, snorkeling, stand-up paddleboarding or chartered fishing expeditions, adventure is always on the menu. Families fresh off a cruise will find Hawks Cay particularly accommodating. Children chomping at the bit to unleash their energy can meet fellow travellers their own age at Camp Hawk, where newfound friends might wage water cannon battles in the Pirate Ship Pool or swim with mermaids and hunt for hidden treasures together at Coral Cay Activities & Adventure. And Hawks Cay’s signature Dolphin Connection program is the only resort-based program that affords guests of all ages the opportunity to interact with the intelligent sea creatures in their natural environment, creating unforgettable memories.

BONUS TRIP: For an exclusive adults-only hideaway, venture to Key West at the southern tip of the Keys, where Little Palm Island Resort & Spa sits. On a private four-acre island, 30 quaint thatched-roof bungalows are surrounded by pristine powdery white-sand beaches, providing guests unparalleled seclusion.

SET SAIL WITH: Emerald Cruises, Virgin Voyages, MSC Cruises, Oceania Cruises, Carnival Cruise Lines, Norwegian Cruise Lines. To book with BOLD’s trusted partners: emeraldcruises.ca or msccruises.ca, hawkscay.com, littlepalmisland.com

MIAMI TO THE KEYS

Tranquility Pool, Hawks Cay Resort

SpaTerre Waiting Room

Shore Station

THE YACHT LIFE

MSC Cruises’ MSC Yacht Club gives fans of cruising a next-level travel experience

WWHAT IS IT ABOUT A CRUISE that is so magical? Perhaps it is the romance of the epic journeys of the past, or the spirit of adventure when it comes to sailing the high seas.

And, what if, on your own epic journey, you could set sail in a ship within a ship? A floating boutique hotel, complete with concierge services and private dining is what MSC Yacht Club is all about. On 15 of its fleet of 23 ships, MSC Cruises, the world’s third largest cruise line, offers all its guests the option to upgrade to the MSC Yacht Club. And, when the MSC World America launches in April 2025, it will have the largest, most luxurious MSC Yacht Club in the fleet, yet still feel intimate with just 152 suites.

After you’ve taken a moment to breathe in the exclusive lounge at the port terminal, your butler will escort you to the gangway – you’re VIP before you step foot on board. Spacious balcony suites are fully stocked with all the amenities, from plush towels and beach towels to self-care organic toiletries and a fully loaded mini bar. A chic slip of a watch-like bracelet allows you key-card style access to all the MSC Yacht Club’s exclusive public spaces, and indicates to the staff that you’re someone who appreciates that added level of service. Need something more? The butler service is available 24/7.

This “ship-within-a-ship” concept is perfect for those who are seeking a retreat, but still want the excitement and energy of big-ship cruising. All the bars and restaurants are easily reserved by MSC Yacht Club’s dedicated concierge; have a dinner reservation and your butler will come to your door just in time to escort you to whatever restaurant you choose on the ship and make sure all is perfect.

Relaxation is full speed ahead here; from a blissful hour at the spa with its thermal suite and water circuit to the MSC Yacht Club-only pool, complete with cabanas, lunch buffet and bartenders mixing the best cocktails, overlooking the ocean.

Being a guest of the MSC Yacht Club means you have priority disembarkation and embarkation, reserved seating in the ship’s theatre so you can always enjoy nightly entertainment without rushing to get the best seats, and bespoke, smaller-group shore excursions (more than 90 to choose from!) – and the best part? It’s an all-inclusive experience, including a premium drinks package, for a stress-free, seamless vacation.

“The new shore excursion offering has come following customer feedback and a desire for a more exclusive experience for MSC Yacht Club guests,” says MSC Cruises Head of Shore Excursions,

Marialuisa Iaccarino. “Guests will benefit from a seamless experience between the butlers’ service onboard and the excursion experts ashore as well as having the opportunity to relax and fully immerse themselves into each destination’s culture, cuisine and traditions.” Learn how to make perfume in France? Oui, oui. Have an authentic Greek dining experience on a private catamaran in Santorini? Opa! Or simply chill in your private cabana in the lush surrounds of Jamaica; these are just a few of the excursion experiences available to MSC Yacht Club guests.

Once per sailing, indulge in a specially crafted afternoon tea, served in the MSC Yacht Club’s Top Sail Lounge, complete with butler service and champagne; before-dinner cocktails are mixed to the sounds of live music. And there’s always a light bite available if you’re feeling peckish; have a snack while taking in the lounge’s panoramic ocean view.

If you love a good glass of wine, you’re in luck. While dining at the MSC Yacht Club Restaurant, you’ll experience excellent service and be able to tap into the knowledge of some of the top sommeliers at sea. The wine menu includes choices from all over the world, and special selections are paired with each night’s menu. In keeping with MSC Cruises’ Italian roots, the ship’s chefs focus on Mediterranean cuisine, with a hint of international flair using as much of the local produce as possible to order; vegetarian options and dietary restrictions are always taken into account.

Families are also welcome at the MSC Yacht Club; top notch extras allow parents to enjoy their vacations as much as the children. There’s an on-board Kid’s Club with a full roster of activities; when the fun’s over at the club, there’s no need for parents to interrupt their vacation day, as their butlers will pick up the kids and reunite them with their parents.

Sustainability is core to the MSC Cruises brand. The ocean is MSC Cruises’ home and the company and its founders do everything they can to make sure it is healthy and safe for generations to come. In the Caribbean, MSC’s Marine Reserve on the cruise line’s private island, Ocean Cay, is dedicated to the preservation of the sea and its coral reefs. Here, MSC Yacht Club guests will lounge on a private beach by the crystal blue waters of the Bahamas, and satiate their appetites at the dedicated restaurant – you’ll even find your butler making sure you stay hydrated and you have everything you need for a fabulous day at the beach.

“There are even more advantages of the MSC Yacht Club just waiting to be discovered by guests,” says MSC Yacht Club Executive Director, Marion Baland. “The beauty of the MSC Yacht Club lies in its ability to offer the best of both worlds. Whether guests are seeking a vibrant and varied entertainment experience for the whole family or a more serene and leisurely pace, it caters to all preferences. It is exclusivity and privacy in a world of choice.”

Highlights from the MSC Yacht Club ’ s Exceptional Excursions

Genoa, Italy: Immerse yourself in an authentic pesto cooking class in Santa Margherita Ligure.

Cannes, France: Enjoy a sensory experience and exclusive perfumemaking workshop.

Akureyri, Iceland: Be invigorated at the Fontana geothermal baths in Iceland Invergordon, Scotland: Try worldfamous whisky at Glenmorangie Distillery in Scotland.

Cozumel, Mexico: Enjoy a luxurious catamaran and snorkelling experience in Cozumel, Mexico.

Falmouth, Jamaica: Enjoy a plush cabana in the forested grounds near the Martha Brae River.

For more information about MSC Yacht Club or to book your MSC Yacht Club excursion visit msccruises.ca/plana-cruise/excursions/msc-yacht-clubexcursions

Taking a well-being approach on the water. By

Liz Fleming

C Take me to the River

RUISING, SOME SAY, is a floating exercise in self-indulgence. We eat too much (remember the old adage that cruisers gain a pound a day?), exercise too little and come home feeling just a shade guilty. But it doesn’t have to be that way. There are alternatives that can keep you on track, no matter how luxurious the experience. River cruising in particular offers a great blend of relaxation and rejuvenation, with late autumn 2024 and spring 2025 itineraries presenting exceptional opportunities. Marked by fewer crowds and milder weather, the shoulder seasons are perfect for healthy indulging on the water. An active river cruise may help you to discover new destinations and a refreshed and revitalized you.

AMAWATERWAYS ON THE DANUBE

Luxury and wellness can go happily hand-in-hand, as AmaWaterways’ proves. An upscale river cruise ship known for its spacious staterooms and expansive wellness centre, AmaMagna’s cruises are ideal for wellness-focused travelers.

Guided biking and hiking tours are always available for those who want to combine healthy exercise with exploring the beautiful surroundings in which you’ll find yourself. Onboard, a wellness program that includes yoga and fitness classes –often conducted in a dedicated space with panoramic views – is very popular, and there’s also a fitness centre. The ship’s chefs have created a menu that focuses on fresh, organic produce, whole grains and low-fat dishes and special dietary requests are accommodated.

Vegan diet? No problem, AmaMagna’s chefs will ensure that your meals are every bit as tempting as those served to the carnivores. amawaterways.ca

AVALON ON THE RHINE

Avalon Waterways is a stand out for its Active & Discovery cruises, which offer three styles of shore excursions and are designed for travellers looking for both adventure and relaxation. Itineraries such as their “Active & Discovery on the Rhine or the Danube” are great for either late autumn and spring voyages and offer a diverse range of wellness activities.

Onboard dining includes options designed for health-conscious travellers; with dishes crafted to support a balanced diet. On many days ashore, you can take guided bike tours through the European countryside, exploring historic towns

Photographs: Scenic (pool, Christmas markets); Avalon (workout)

and maybe having a healthy sip or two at wineries along the way. On select ships, Avalon has yoga and stretching sessions, and fun team activities like corn hole, which are a great way to unwind after that big bike ride. avalonwaterways.ca

SCENIC’S WELL-BEING IMMERSIVE ITINERARIES

For those eager to explore the Danube or the Rhine this fall or next spring, one of Scenic Luxury Cruises & Tours’ “SpaceShips,” Scenic Jasper, offers an all-inclusive luxury experience with a significant focus on wellness. Its cruises are ideal for those who want an immersive, health-conscious experience with dining options that always include a variety of healthy choices featuring fresh, organic ingredients that are calorie-conscious and nutritious and also delicious. Ebikes are available for guests who prefer to explore destinations at their own pace, while guided biking tours tailored to different fitness levels and

interests are also on tap. The ship includes not only a state-of-the-art wellness area with a range of activities, including yoga classes and stretching sessions but also a wellness coach to provide personalized advice and support. scenic.ca

UNIWORLD ON THE GARONNE IN FRANCE

Uniworld Boutique River Cruises, a line that is well-known for its luxurious and personalized service, also offers a great wellness-oriented experience aboard the S.S. Bon Voyage, which sails on the Garonne River in France.

The ship has a stable of bikes on board, whether you choose to go on a guided tour or prefer to roll along on your own. Escorted biking tours are designed to offer gentle exercise – no need to be an Olympian to take part – while giving ample opportunity to take in the picturesque French countryside. Walking tours – guided or not – are also available. The SS Bon Voyage’s onboard wellness centre offers a range of treatments, including massages and facials, all of which will help to make you feel endlessly relaxed. uniworld.com/ca

THE VIKING DIET

Another healthy lifestyle option, Viking’s Longship fleet is known for providing a balanced approach to wellness that includes health-conscious dining with menus that include dishes low in fat and high in nutrients, with plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables. Viking also provides complimentary bike rentals for use in various ports and guided bike tours and hiking excursions are always available. vikingrivercruisescanada.com

What to book

Merry Cruising! The Christmas markets of Europe. Book now for 2024 or reserve for the 2025 season.

Emerald Cruises

Prague & Christmas Time on the Danube DURATION: 7 Days

DEPARTURE: December 18, 2024, to December 24, 2025. Experience the Rhine, Main, and Danube rivers, where breathtaking landscapes, rich cultural tapestries and intriguing histories blend seamlessly with the grandeur of world-class cities and the quaint charm of romantic towns. Visitors can explore Budapest, Bratislava and stroll through the holiday markets of Vienna while cruising on this mini-itinerary. emeraldcruises.ca

Scenic Cruises

Rhine Christmas Markets

DURATION: 8 Days

DEPARTURE: Various dates starting in early and mid-December 2024. Be immersed in the magic of a European Christmas while cruising along the Rhine. Strasbourg, the spa town of Baden-Baden, and Heidelberg Castle, as well the World Heritagelisted Rhine Gorge are all stops. Experience festive cheer at Cologne’s Christmas markets and explore Amsterdam’s storied canals. Enjoy the timeless traditions of Christmas –roasted chestnuts, aromatic glühwein and lively atmosphere of bustling holiday markets. scenic.ca

DINING & DRINKING

Grazing the Waves

Vista’s Toscana restaurant

Sailing the Vista, Oceania’s first new ship in more than a decade, Margaret Swaine works up an appetite.

ON BOARD OCEANIA’S NEW VISTA in January, my husband Bill and I met a very loyal fan of the cruise line. An ex-pilot who found freedom at 55, he had already taken over 50 cruises on an Oceania ship. When Oceania christens a new vessel, he told us he’s among the first to book. What inspires such loyalty to a cruise line and why the excitement to be among the first to be onboard? The answer to the second question was obvious as soon as we put foot on deck. That everything-new smell, the gleam of the floor-to-ceiling glass windows, railings so shiny they’re like mirrors and the pure opulence of design, it all was so impressive.

Vista, launched in May 2023, is the first new ship to be built for Oceania in more than a decade and the first of their Allura class vessels. We’ve been on two of its fleet mates, the Marina sailing Polynesia in 2018 and the Nautica cruising the Mediterranean in 2016. This ship has the same basic dimensions as the Marina, but with more grandeur and glamour, such as a sweeping staircase that rises from deck five to six, crystal chandeliers, champagne colours, generous splashes of gold throughout and standard staterooms measuring 290 square feet, among the most spacious at sea. With a passenger capacity of 1,200 and 800 crew, it’s considered a midsize ship.

The cruise industry’s postpandemic revival has been impressive. According to the industry body Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA), around 31.5 million took a cruise in 2023, a healthy increase over 2022. The forecast for cruise capacity shows an increase of 10 percent from 2024 through 2028; to meet demand, Oceania’s eighth vessel, the Allura, is set to launch in July 2025. To set themselves apart, Oceania claims to be “the finest cuisine at sea” and trademarked the slogan. They not only aim high with their signature restaurants, but also with their hands-on Culinary Centre and Chef’s Studio. On Vista, this space has been expanded to 24 individual cooking stations. The Privée private dining experiences for a select eight that pay up extra (all meals in other venues are included in the fare), includes Odyssey, which is a multicourse meal with fine wine pairings and the six-course Dom Perignon dinner. We’ve found both the wines and the dishes at these meals to be top notch and

well worth the price.

That is because for Bill and me, what floats our boat is food. We’ve tried other cruise lines but seem to always drift back to Oceania. On the Polynesia trip, three of the Culinary Discovery Tours we did, The Culinary Secrets of the Sacred Island of Raiatea, Gourmet Dinner at St. Regis Bora Bora and Polynesia Culinary Experience on the Marquesas island of Nuku Hiva, were so delicious they’re indelibly in my taste memory.

We had great hopes for this Maya Montage voyage on Vista, a round trip from Miami to Costa Maya Mexico, Roatan Island in Honduras, Panama, Costa Rica, Guatemala, Belize City and Cozumel. However, no one can control the weather and we were hit with such stormy seas that two of our port stops were cancelled and, in the end, all three of our onshore culinary experiences. To make up for the Maya Mexico cancellation, we did have a free, fun, informative cooking lesson organized by Kathryn Kelly, Executive Chef and Director of Culinary Enrichment for Oceania.

Kathryn Kelly, Executive Chef

In a follow up via email, Chef Kelly wrote, “We are the only cruise line in the world designed specifically for foodies, by foodies, earning the reputation as the cruise line of choice for gourmands.” I’d agree but hope for better luck on a future voyage.

Cancelled culinary onshore tours aside, the endless offering of activities onboard along with 11 culinary venues, cooking lessons, special private dinners, cocktail parties with the captain and crew and wine tastings, our taste buds were well looked after.

Our suite also came with a personal butler ready to deliver whatever we wanted – within reason. Shortly after we entered, Anthony arrived impeccably dressed and ready to serve. “I’ll have caviar and hard drugs,” said Bill. The latter request was a display of my husband’s teasing humour but the caviar was a demand that had to be met. Sure enough on the days when caviar was available, a very generous serving was delivered to our suite. On a typical voyage, Vista is stocked with 60 pounds of caviar per week. My husband got more than his share.

The answer to my first question, why loyalty? For us, while we are way too many cruise miles away from President’s Circle (60 cruise credits) to get there in our lifetime, we’d be happy for go for Bronze (five credits) and try out Allura next year.

oceaniacruises.com

EUROPE SPOTLIGHT

The Adriatic

Sunset views of the walls of the Old Town of Dubrovnik, Croatia

Two Ways

Onofrio's Fountain, Dubrovnik, Croatia

THE CLASSIC SAILING SHIP

Ruth J. Katz on board Windstar’s Wind Surf

IT WAS A GLORIOUS DAY: An azure sky, blanketing the crystalline-toaz, lapping waves in the Ionian Sea; a caressing breeze on my cheek, a sun-kissed warmth on my shoulder and a pale pink drink with a colourful umbrella in it in my hand. But the crowning gift of Gaia’s bounty that day on board Windstar’s Wind Surf sailing vessel, was the billowing, snow-white, gently-flapping sails – soaring on five masts, more than 60 metres skyward –majestically unfurled, helping us waltz that day from Kotor, Montenegro, to Taormina, Sicily, a destination more popular than ever since the filming of “ White Lotus.” Our ship, about the size of two football fields in length, sports nearly 850 square metres of sails performing masterfully, chugging along, at nearly 16 knots.

Although Wind Surf is one of the largest sailing ships in the world, her relatively small size (compared to the behemoth cruising vessels that can transport 6,000+ people), enables her to easily slip into dockside berths, thus avoiding off-shore anchorage, requiring tenders to shuttle passengers back and forth for excursions. The Wind Surf is a cozy home; my stateroom, a hair under 19 square metres, was one of the best laid out I’ve ever experienced. The naval architects had made clever use of every square inch of space. Not to be overlooked, but rather prized for their even smaller size, are Wind Surf’s two sister ships, Wind Star and Wind Spirit, each with a 148-guest capacity. (Fully booked, Wind Surf accommodates 342 passengers.)

My journey was a mere eight days – if only, longer! – from Venice to Rome. We first soaked up the splendours of Croatia’s Istrian peninsula, in the atmospheric medieval town of Motovun, today an artists’ colony. (I spotted an aging poster for a 2021 film festival!) Snugly perched on a mountain crest, it is also home to Istrian brandy – and while we were there, to truffles galore. A charming hamlet, with ancient, cobbled streets and equally old stone buildings, dotted with dowager residences.

Our other stops along the Adriatic were all places I had wanted to see and experience, with the crown jewel being Dubrovnik, which is known quite appropriately as the pearl of the Adriatic. The walled Old Town’s ramparts are a tempting draw and should not be missed. Once home to serious bastions and more than 150 canons, this medieval fortification was completed in the 13th century, and is about two kilometres long. If you are inclined to walk the ramparts, allow at least two-plus hours, although you can alight at the mid-way point.

Not to be missed, either, is the 14th-century Franciscan Monastery, with an intimate museum, featuring assorted relics, liturgical objects, pharmaceutical paraphernalia, medieval tomes and even jewelry. This pharmacy is a Mecca for anyone seeking a fountain of youth, as it sells its world-renowned “Mala Braca 1317 AD” face cream, an alchemic, unguent potion, following a secret, centuries-old formula. Of course, I bought a lot.

OTHER DUBROVNIK MUSTS: The Rector’s Palace (with its Cultural History Museum inside), and the Dubrovnik synagogue, arguably the second-oldest in Europe; it also lays claim as the oldest Sephardic synagogue in the world.

In and around Wind Surf’s docking destinations, you’ll have an opportunity to poke about in delightful towns and hamlets, depending on the shore excursions you select. If you’ve already seen Pompeii, and even though fresh excavations make it an everchanging marvel, I would heartily recommend the land excursion at Sorrento be Herculaneum (Ercolano). Having been to Pompeii twice, I opted for Herculaneum and was utterly gobsmacked by its excavation and restoration work.

Windstar’s extraordinary staff of caring, attentive room stewards, wait staff and navigation personnel make all the difference. The staff:guest ratio is 1:1.5. You’ll think of something you need or want, and suddenly it will appear! You’ll not be disappointed by any meal, whether in the casual Stella Bistro, the Veranda/Candles restaurants or the more formal Amphora Dining Room. Windstar has an affiliation with the James Beard Foundation, and thus it’s not surprising that even when you look to grab the salt, you’ll find a tray with three petite troughs – for Hawaiian black salt, smoked applewood salt or Himalayan Mountain pink salt.

WHEN YOU GO: Windstar has a fleet of six all-suite yachts and two more Star Class Vessels coming on line in 2025. (The lovely Wind Surf will be undergoing a complete interior makeover in the next two years.) The company sails to 80 countries, 330 ports and offers 2,300 shore excursions. windstarcruises.com

Photographs Courtesy Of Windstar And Emerald Cruises.

THE YACHTING WAY

THE FIRST TIME I SAW THE ADRIATIC, I was a twentysomething back-packing through Europe. It was that riteof-passage, dividing line between youth and adulthood. After a dreary night crossing on an even drearier tanker/ferry from Brindisi, Italy, we arrived at sunrise and Corfu, Greece, where the Adriatic meets the Ionian Sea. The island looked splendid to my weary eyes, with glimmering pink sand and crystal clear waters with reefs worth getting waterlogged for. I couldn’t resist dipping a toe, and then some.

That was a lifetime ago, so when I was given the chance to revisit the Adriatic, this time the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia, I took it.

But first things first. I’m not backpacking, but sailing on Azzurra, Emerald Cruise’s luxury yacht. Yes, at 110 metres long, it does look like it could be part of a rock star’s fleet but, no, you don’t have to have a superstar’s bank account to sail on it. That said, there is an air of exclusivity about it. Azzurra carries 100 passengers, with a friendly, international crew of 72. There are plenty of chill spaces where you can seek solace, such as the Sky Bar on the top deck with its bar, hot tub and sunbeds; the Aqua Pool deck and its quaint cafe; and the Observation Lounge at the bow of the ship (I spent a few mornings sipping cappuccino all by myself, taking in a good book and the view). The cabins are spacious for two, including the bathrooms (the Missoni Home towels and robes don’t hurt either). Better still, its sleek profile allows it to dock at many smaller ports that big cruise ships can’t, yet it’s stable enough to traverse the Mediterranean – and the Red, Arabian and Adriatic seas.

We start in Dubrovnik, and immediately there’s an air of familiarity. The city played King’s Landing in Game of Thrones (GoT) and it’s just as stunning in real life, no filter required. It glows hot in the evening sun and, in that moment, it’s not hard to imagine Jon Snow and his knights storming the gates while Daenarys torches it all from dragon-back. As I walk alone within its Old Town walls (a UNESCO world heritage site), I’m picking up the local tongue. It’s a rough Slavic/Latin hybrid of which

I understand every fourth or so word (one of the languages my parents speak at home is a Slavic Macedonian dialect akin to Bulgarian, similarly spoken in North Macedonia).

At a glance, Dalmatia has some in common with northern Italy: Seafood and pasta are staples, rather than my plant-forward Mediterranean and Balkan diet, and architecture – Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance are in evidence. Red clay tiles cover the rooftops of the island towns, lending a Venetian-inspired continuity but also, a bit of “where am I today again?” And Croatians are a no-nonsense, proud, daresay forward lot, perhaps still experiencing the growing pains of a suddenly popular tourist destination, particularly due to the legions that come for a piece of GoT.

I find myself alone once more, in Split, in the bowels of the Roman Emperor Diocletian’s Palace. The room is all stone walls, arches and columns, and it hums familiar again. It’s here that Daenarys kept her dragons before her march to Westeros. Yet it’s not the fiery breath of the beasts that lilts through the air, but song. Coming from an adjacent chamber, a half-dozen men, dressed in white with stark red sashes around their waists, are harmonizing a capella, to a small crowd. Known here as Klapa music, its roots are in the church. I barely catch a word – mother, love, heart – but as the singers go from song to song, their expressions do the translating: sadness, devotion, romance.

I return to the ship and to the sea. We arrive at Hvar’s harbour, but even the petite Azzurra has to weigh anchor offshore of the island’s shallow dock. Instead, the ship’s private tender is speeding guests back and forth to town. But who needs to go ashore? The marina platform, which gives direct access to the sea at the ship’s stern is open. Swimming and kayaking? 007-esque sea scooters or bouncing on a floating trampoline? The Adriatic beckons once more. I dip a toe and dive in.

WHEN YOU GO: In late 2023, Azzurra was joined by its sister yacht, Sakara, and both will sail the Caribbean November 2024 to April 2025; both ships also sail the Adriatic May through August, 2025. emeraldcruises.ca

Vivian Vassos sails the Dalmatian Coast on Emerald’s Azzurra

LONDON

Calling

From rebirth to reimagining, two grande dames of London’s hotel scene are ready for their close up. By Vivian

Vassos

tHE GRAND STAIRCASE stretches upward with its red carpet tumbling over marble treads, splitting at the halfway point. Do I go left or right? But before I do, I’m told by Emiel Danneels that I must rub the nose of the lion’s head at the newel post, and the one on the right, to be exact. It would be what Sir Winston Churchill would do for luck, every morning, before climbing this same staircase. I give its nose a quick tickle.

An enormous crystal chandelier illuminates the steps, and the scene above: a balcony of arches that allow people to spy those below and from where Churchill would deliver his daily pep talk to his staff. Danneels is the concierge and hotel historian at Raffles London at The OWO, and he’s obliging a small group of hotel guests with a behind-the-scenes tour. Behind every door is a new plot thickening, antiqued-filled offices-turned sumptuous guest suites; walls lined with books; fireplaces awaiting a light.

The OWO is The Old War Office, and Raffles, one of the world’s most storied hotel brands. I am following the ghost of Churchill and his web of intrigue. Bits of the ghost of James Bond were spirited here as well, as the character’s creator, the author Sir Ian Fleming, worked in the building during the Second World War. His office numbers? 006 and 007.

I feel less spy and more debutante as I climb the steps. How many diamonds may have descended these stairs during the season, I wonder? And, although there’s something unmatched by the original Raffles in Singapore, The OWO London must be the current jewel in the Accor crown.

Living in a building with so much significance to the Western world as we know it is a bit of a mind-blower. The Elizabeth Tower (and Big Ben, its bell), the Houses of Parliament, the Horse Guards Parade and Whitehall are all within view; Buckingham Palace a quick walk through St James’ Park. Built in 1906 as the new HQ for the British Army, it was a testament to Edward VII’s maximalist baroque tastes, perhaps a backlash of his mother Queen Victoria’s austere ways.

Austerity be gone, this was all in. And modern-day transformative master designer Thierry Despont’s vision plays well in this environment, building on the history with layers of heritage-inspired paint colours, fabrics and wallpapers and maintaining all of the building’s over-thetop characters. Crystal, polished wood, glossy marble, the eyes are delighted.

Raffles London At The OWO

It brings the expected gravitas of the Raffles brand, but adds its own distinct personality. There’s no Long Bar, no peanut shells crunching underfoot or Singapore Slings on tap. At OWO, I’m snug in The Guard’s Bar, the hotel’s signature splashes of red (perhaps in reference to the colours of England’s patron saint, St George) add to the warmth of the narrow space. Champagne is more the game; gin tonics and craft cocktails are at home here. There’s a speakeasy too, deep in the bowels of the building; the door is only marked by a number above it: 007. Upstairs, Michelinstarred chef Mauro Colagreco lends his name and know-how to three restaurants. The bright and airy Saison is relaxed and welcoming and perfect for solo diners,

Mauro’s table seats only 20, while his namesake resto is his homage to the seasonal English garden.

I’ve been booked into the Atkins Suite for the night. It’s named for Vera Atkins, said to be one of Sir Winston’s favourite spies. She worked in special ops in France. The suite is one of the hotel’s corner rooms, all eight of which are named for significant woman to the war effort – from spies to nurses to the influencers of the day, Nancy Astor and Clementine Churchill; the living area of the Atkins Suite is all curves and splashes of ruby red against wood panels.

But the bedroom is an oasis of serene calm. Cream and white with hits of gold and camel are a visual sigh, dark wood paneled built-ins the only sign

Photographs: Raffles; The Dorchester

of a building of an age. But modernity still reigns when it comes to amenities: the requisite hair dryer is joined by a straightening iron; the bath and yes, a bathtub! are stocked with 1906, the bespoke products doused with the fragrance created by London-based perfumer Azzi Glasser, giving a nod to the building’s birth year.

The little half moon window faces the bed, and the shades swing open automatically as I enter the room. Here comes the sun.

IF WE WANT to play history roulette, we could spin the wheel and land on The Dorchester, a true grande dame of London’s hotel scene. Off Hyde Park and on the edge of

Mayfair, it may be away from the politics and intrigue, but it’s been a bastion of high society since it first opened its doors in 1931.

What started out as the estate of the Earl of Dorchester in the late 1700s morphed into the American Embassy in 1910 and acted as a hospital during the First World War. It was here that Eisenhower planned the Normandy invasion that would be the beginning of the end to the Second World War. Prince Philip threw his bachelor party here; rooms even displayed artwork by the now King Charles.

When The Dorchester re-opened its first phase of a roof-to-basement refurbishment in February 2023, it brought with it air and light. Designer

Scenes from Raffles London (from far left): the alabaster lion guarding the grand staircase (above); the Mediterranean-inspired Saison restaurant; the checkerboard marble-lined obby corridor.

Pierre-Yves Rochon has given the hotel entrance and lobby a natural flow that makes one feel at home. In The Promenade, it’s clear Rochon was inspired by English design sensibility, incorporating nature’s hues and spectacular blooms of a country garden. Toss in oversized works of art, the glimmer of gold accents and the sparkle of a mirrored baby grand piano at the Artist’s Bar, and you’ve got a hot spot for glamorous afternoon tea or later in the day cocktails. Curved banquettes and couches are strategically placed, facing the room, where one can see and be seen. I could sit here all day, breathing in the fresh-flower scented air, watching Mayfair movers and shakers meet and greet.

I’ve booked into a first-floor suite, complete with a butler. He pours me a cuppa right away, makes sure I’m not allergic to the treats that come with the tea, asks if I need help unpacking and notices I’ve left my glasses on the desk. After I’ve come back from a walk in Hyde Park, I see he’s left me a lens cleaning cloth on the desk, and has discreetly removed any allergy-offending treats.

Later, I’m having a pre-dinner drink in The Vesper Bar (yes, she was a Bond girl, too). The low-ceilinged room filled with green and turquoise velvets is like having a cocktail in a long-ago luxury cruise liner; the walls and ceiling reflect a bronzed glow from the low table lamps and opaque sconces. It’s clear the bartenders love it here; they’re all engaged in animated

conversation with their guests. Everyone looks pretty in this room. But dinner calls, and I stroll across the hall to The Grill by Tom Booton. It’s Brit food at its best, with plenty of carving and serving tableside, roast and all the comfort foods, elevated. The chef’s “All the Chicken” is an ode to the humble bird, as good as your grandmother (or a French country chef) might do; Hispi cabbage, cod doughnuts, Cornish crab and chips – all a testimony to Booton’s commitment to British cuisine.

Sophie, my sommelier, is fearless in her pairings; her depth of wine knowledge belies her youthful appearance. And perhaps that’s the point. A grande dame like The Dorchester or Raffles London at The OWO may guard their secrets, but they show off their good bones, not by hiding their age, but by enhancing it and celebrating it, always moving forward.

Ask the Concierge

One of the most knowledgeable members of a hotel staff is the Concierge. They can get you tickets to shows, maps to lesser known areas and reservations for restaurants that are otherwise booked. Don’t hesitate to ask.

THE INSIDER

Emiel Danneels, Concierge and Hotel Historian at Raffles London at The OWO WHERE TO GO

Borough Market: One of London’s oldest and largest food markets with a history spanning around 1000 years, is a charity governed by a board of volunteer trustees. Once a wholesale market catering to the greengrocers of south London, it has evolved into a hub for sustainable food production, short supply chains and social connection. Open Tuesday to Sundays 10.00am - 17.00pm (16.00pm on Sundays). raffles.com/london/

THE INSIDER

Paul Whittle, head concierge at The Dorchester. WHERE TO GO Take a seven minute walk to Wellington Arch. This is a wonderful opportunity to see the statue of the Duke of Wellington, and have fabulous views of the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace. The Duke of Wellington is famous for the battle of Waterloo, where he fought and won against Napoleon – it’s an iconic little gem in London. dorchestercollection.com/ london/the-dorchester

Scenes from The Dorchester (from far left): The lobby entrance; The Promenadse’s Liberace baby grand piano; a spot of lunch at The Promenade; (left) English country manor-meetsmodern in the Belgravia Suite.

BOLD DECODER

Tassie

Getting the down low down under. By Jim Byers

Wineglass Bay, Freycinet National Park

South West National Park, Tasmania

sSTORYTELLER AND TOUR GUIDE Frederick Cygnet is at the trendy MACq01 waterfront hotel in Hobart, Tasmania, giving us a bit of a history lesson about the area. The first known sighting of the island by a European was in 1642, when the Dutch stumbled upon Tasmania. About 130 years later the French wandered in for a look. To hear Cygnet tell the story, it was a major case of quelle surprise!

“Everything was upside down and inside out,” says Cygnet. “Bark fell off the trees instead of leaves. The aboriginal people set forest fires intentionally as an agent of renewal.” One can only imagine what they thought about kangaroos and the duck-billed platypus, a mammal that lays eggs.

Some 250 years later, Tasmania is turning the entire tourism world upside down. What was once an afterthought for foreign visitors intent on seeing barrier reefs or opera houses is now a thriving destination with excellent food and wine, trendy hotels and one of the world’s most unusual (okay, maybe bizarre) museums.

From left: MONA (The Museum of Old and New); Sunrise at Sleepy Bay, Freycinet National Park; Theresa Sainty, a local aboriginal woman and tour guide; Wineglass Bay, Eastern Tasmania

By Jim Byers.

Hobart is a free-spirited destination that feels like a smaller version of Portland, Oregon, or a larger version of Tofino, B.C.; a state with a relaxed, outdoor vibe but a growing number of attractions and posh places to stay and eat.

As he takes us around the city, Cygnet shows off striking artwork depicting immigrant Irish women, as well as the Henry Jones Art Hotel. Henry Jones and his wife gave a lot of money to charity and greatly supported the arts, he adds. The hotel is in an historic building that once housed Jones’ very successful fruit jam business. It’s also said to be haunted.

Perhaps the most astonishing offering in the Hobart area is MONA, The Museum of Old and New Art, a wild and somewhat wacky spot that you might call the duckbill platypus of the museum world. The museum was built by David Walsh, who made his money by coming up with some unusual gambling schemes that didn’t exactly make him welcome in casinos and racetracks around the world.

According to the official MONA website, Walsh “opened a small museum of antiquities to which no one came. He declared it a triumph and decided to expand.” In 2011, 10 years after he opened his less than popular antiquities museum, Walsh threw open the gates to MONA.

It’s a wondrous bit of architecture that’s mostly underground and features massive, sandstone walls, a spiral staircase and some more than slightly bizarre exhibits. One of the most unusual bits is a “poo machine” that mimics the journey of food from human mouth to the nether regions. There’s also a room with flashing strobe lights and, right around the corner from a painting that says “God Is Your Enemy,” a room filled with classical Christian paintings and the sound of monks chanting. There’s often live music at the museum, and a sleek underground bar.

Buy an “Eternity Membership,” which provides the buyer with free lifetime admission – along with the right to be cremated and have your remains stashed in the MONA cemetery. Although you can drive, most visitors to the museum arrive via a short ferry ride up the Derwent River from downtown Hobart.

MONA has definitely helped bump Hobart to the front of the tourism line. Some call it the Bilbao effect, a nod to what Canadian-born architect Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum did for visitation numbers to a previously B-list Spanish city.

The downtown is somewhat lacking in glamour, but the gleaming waterfront more than makes up for it with high-end, artsy hotels such as MACq01, which bills itself as a storytelling property and has rooms that are based on Tasmanian character traits, such as “Hearty and Resilient.”

Across the harbour is Salamanca Place, a grouping of renovated, historic warehouses that now are home to hip restaurants, galleries, home décor shops, book stores and more. Think The Rocks neighbourhood in Sydney, but with far less visitors. Just up the hill from Salamanca Place is Battery Point, a delightful area with pretty, pastel cottages, many bedecked with climbing roses.

AN ABORIGINAL EXPERIENCE

A great opportunity for an aboriginal experience that visitors can enjoy and learn from is a tour of a riverfront park area called Takara Limuna, which translates to English as “Sheoak Walk.”

It’s an easy, pretty walk that takes you along the Derwent River and past groves of gum trees, some of them showing burnt yellow or bright pink bubblegum bits of bark. The trail honours the stories, history and culture of the local Mumirimina people, who have been living here for tens of thousands of years.

Theresa Sainty, a local aboriginal woman who sometimes does guided tours of Takara Limuna and is kind enough to be showing us around, points out various plants and explains how aboriginal people used them. “You can imagine families here in ancient days doing what families do to stay alive,” she tells us. “Imagine all the teaching that took place.”

Sainty explains that people came to the river when seafood was plentiful and moved inland when it wasn’t. “I don’t like to say they were nomadic,” she says, suggesting it implies laziness to some people. “They lived here seasonally.”

We get to the final spot on the trail and find a fire pit with a round metal grate around it, cut in such a way that embers and flames will illuminate a stingray-shaped constellation that’s important to aboriginal people in the area. Sainty points out the group of stones that city workers laid out in the shape of the stingray constellation nearby.

NATURE ON YOUR DOORSTEP

From Hobart, it’s relatively easy to get a taste of the surrounding countryside. It’s a 2.5-hour drive from Hobart to Freycinet National Park. The road winds through and over small hills (one steep one is called Break Me Neck Hill) and past long, lonely beaches, including Kelvedon Beach. Freycinet is perhaps Tasmania’s most popular nature spot for visitors, a glorious area of mountains and deep, turquoise bays.

The most famous place in the region is Wineglass Bay, with the kind of water you’d expect in the Greek Isles and a white sand beach that would make Hawaiians envious. It is also backed by rugged mountains that stretch on for miles. The park features wonderful hiking opportunities – I was pretty happy with my hike to the Wineglass Bay lookout, which winds up a moderately steep hill with some 800 steps and reveals a tremendous vista –and several great beaches, including Richardson Beach, Friendly Beaches and Honeymoon Bay.

As well as notable food, Tasmania is increasingly becoming known for good wines. It’s a cool climate, so you won’t find the kind of big, blousy reds you get from South Australia. Instead, look for fruity Pinot Noirs and crisp, French-style Chardonnays, as well as sparkling wines.

Devil’s Corner is a lovely winery in the Freycinet Region that overlooks a pretty lagoon. There’s good Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but also Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Shiraz. They make two kinds of sparkling wine; one more like a Prosecco and the other more like Champagne, with lovely, yeasty notes. Fine wine, astonishing scenery, and a city that’s very much on the upswing. Visit Tasmania before the rest of the world catches on.

From top: Peppina Restaurant ‘Tutti a Tavola feast’; The Tasman, a Luxury Collection Hotel; Freycinet Lodge; Devil’s Corner Winery.

ESSENTIALS

STAY

The Tasman Hotel is a Marriott Luxury Collection property a block from the Hobart waterfront. Ask for one of the rooms in the historic wing, which once housed Tasmanian government offices. The Mary Mary bar is a gem. marriott.com

At Freycinet National Park, Saffire Freycinet is a member of the Luxury Lodges of Australia group. They offer 20 suites with wonderful views of the Hazards Mountains, which tower over Coles Bay. saffire-freycinet.com.au

Edge of the Bay features 14 ocean view suites and six modestly decorated, secluded cottages with full kitchens, two bedrooms and a patio with a barbeque. edgeofthebay.com.au

In addition to fine storytelling, the MACq01 in Hobart has a fine bar with hundreds of types of whisky and fine harbour views. macq01.com.au

EAT

Peppina is a modern, Italian place at The Tasman Hotel in Hobart. It’s got a modern, bright design that feels like a chic bistro in California and excellent food, including scallops topped with almonds and chili oil. Great pasta, too. peppinarestaurant.com

Also in Hobart, Frank serves up fine, roasted vegetables, a tasty lamb and beef mole, and other dishes.

In Freycinet National Park, The Bay Restaurant at Freycinet Lodge has lovely views of Coles Bay and a fine patio. The emphasis is on seasonal Australian cuisine, particularly seafood.

DO

Pennicott Wilderness Journeys offers a variety of boat tours that can take you out on the harbour to see pretty, hillside homes, dramatic cliffs, and the Iron Pot Island Lighthouse. pennicottjourneys.com.au

Feeling brave? Hobart hosts an annual nude winter solstice swim every June.

“Hidden Hobart” and other city tours can be arranged by The MACq01 Hotel. Tours are free for hotel guests and just $20 AUD for the general public.

CURRENCY

Prices for meals and other necessities aren’t low in Australia. But, at press time, the Canadian loonie is a little ahead of the Aussie dollar. Restaurant prices include taxes, so you’re not adding 10 - 15 per cent. Most Australian workers expect minimal tips; maybe a few dollars, so you’re saving on tipping as well. You’ll probably find prices in Tasmania to be quite similar to Canadian cities.

POSTCARD FROM

Neko Harbour, Antarctic Peninsula

Words and photography by Marck Guttman

IT'S ALL RELATIVE. After more than a decade of spinning tales about wildlife viewing and environmental conservation for titles such as Esquire, National Geographic and Travel + Leisure, I finally made it to Antarctica this past February. That same year, recreational visits to the White Continent surpassed 120,000 in a single season. I ventured to a remote place yet never felt alone, sweated where I anticipated the deepest freeze and saw greenery where I expected nothing but snow.

On board the Ponant Le Lyrial, an expedition ship that accommodates up to 244 passengers, we were well-fed (freshly baked eclairs, artisan cheese boards, reserve wines) and well-cared for (spa treatments, uninterrupted WiFi) while crossing The Drake Passage, one of the world’s most treacherous waterways. It’s all served up smoothly even while navigating a three-metre swell, but the true luxury is the powerful silence that allows you to hear the blow of a whale in the distance.

On my trip to the Antarctic Peninsula and the Falklands I was awed by intimate encounters with the humpback whales, watched gentoo penguins toboggan across the snow and witnessed a petrel feeding its chick. I kayaked next to leopard seals and lost count of the bird species. As I sifted through photos for this issue, I found this image of a zodiac dwarfed by a towering glacier in Neko Harbour. A glacier so colossal, it makes the human element look like nothing. This humbling perspective is what it’s all about. Ultimately, it’s all relative. ponant.com

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