Bold Traveller Spring/Summer 2023 Europe Spotlight

BOLD EUROPE

SPRING/SUMMER 2023

CONTENTS

20 BEAUTY: FRAGRANCE Spring’s Fresh Takes – The scents of the season inspire a sense of the past but with a look to the future

22 STYLE: THE WATCH REPORT Haute Horology – The definitive guide to the ultimate in men’s and women’s timepieces

26 STYLE: OBJET D’ART A Time & A Place – Charting the evolution of the wristwatch from its royal roots

37 SECRET EUROPE From the English countryside to the vineyards of Champagne to the alps of Switzerland, allow us to present a BOLD Traveller view of where to go next

38 Southern Sisters Celebrating the smaller cities of Évora, Portugal and Seville, Spain

42 The Good of Bad Ragaz Wellness, wine and world-class cuisine are on the menu in this small Swiss town

44 English Country History, intrigue and royalty reign at this UK hotel

46 Champagne Dreams Experiencing a lunch like no other in the vineyards of Épernay

50 Island Life A top travel advisor shares her insider info on two lesser-travelled European idylls

52 Madrid’s Magnetism The Bold Decoder’s guide to the best of everything, from art to tapas, in the Spanish capital

58 WISH YOU WERE HERE Postcard From… Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge, Vancouver Island

BOLD

Spring/Summer 2023

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FROM THE BOLD TRAVELLER DESK

WELCOME WELLNESS!

WITH SUMMER just around the corner, many of us are slipping into a welcome feeling of lightness. Our seasonal shift is almost cleansing, a transition that opens our spirits to a wealth of possibilities. This is also the time to start planning the next getaway, whether a long weekend or a longer, well-deserved break. As reported in a recent dispatch on boldtraveller.ca, travel is a proven moodbooster. In fact, just the act of planning can add that spring in our step that starts in the happiness centre of our minds.

And, as much a buzzword as mindful is, it does carry meaning beyond the zeitgeist. We’re not just looking for mindful meditation retreats, we’re being more mindful of how and even where we travel now. At Bold Traveller, we are always grateful for the opportunity to share wonderful wellness destinations and the experiences one can have while there. From California to Los Cabos, these places excel at the idea of rest, relaxation and more importantly, a deeper body, mind and spirit connection. And how does one define a wellness getaway? For some, it’s an active adrenaline rush, while for others, it’s calm and tranquillity that books the ticket.

For this issue, in “The Road to Wellville,” contributing editor Vawn Himmelsbach takes us along, with her shortlist of feel-good places across the globe. Restoring balance in the Himalayas? Check. Boosting longevity in Thailand? We say, why not?

In “Secret Europe,” we’ve asked our intrepid writers and travel experts to share their go-to getaways. Just off the-not-too-beaten path, or

looking at old favourites anew, the stories will inspire you to book a European vacation as soon as you can take off.

Your engagement in the places you visit, dear reader, goes beyond a simple stay; but understanding the privilege of immersing yourself in where you are. Since we are in the storytelling space, I invite you to join the Bold Traveller community. Share all your wellness – and beyond – stories of where you are in the world. Tag #iamaboldtraveller (and follow @boldtravellermag) and share your photos and experiences, and we will do our best to repost and tag you back.

It doesn’t have to be the most lavish or farflung, it could even be a mini-break in your own backyard. Because if it’s one thing we all know now, it takes a village, and the networking and connection to the things that bring us joy or

joyful inspiration is key to our health and wellbeing.

There is so much more to share when it comes to this good news about travel. It just makes you feel good. And, to borrow from a wise sage, that’s a good thing. Safe travels!

Vivian Vassos Editor-at-Large

PS Don’t forget to sign up for the Bold Traveller weekend newsletter and post card of the week, to start your Mondays off with a little bit of dreaming about your destination next. boldtraveller.ca

“TRAVEL IS A PROVEN MOOD-BOOSTER. IN FACT, JUST THE ACT OF PLANNING CAN ADD THAT SPRING IN OUR STEP THAT STARTS IN THE HAPPINESS CENTRE OF OUR MINDS”

Vivian at the Forum in Rome, an eternal European favourite

ON OUR RADAR

ROAMING MODE

Where to go next? Here, a few quirky, off-the-beaten-path places to consider

BY VIVIAN VASSOS

1. CLOCK THIS HÔTEL DES HORLOGERS, Le Brassus, Switzerland

There may not be anything quite as precise as a watch made in Switzerland and, at this hotel in the French-Swiss area of the Vallée de Joux, precision is, well, precisely the point. Inspired by watchmakers and their craft, everything here is perfectly designed – from ensuring a view of the Risoud Forest from all 50 rooms, to the Michelin-starred offerings at the hotel’s dining establishments. The stunningly verdant Risoud presents unique opportunities to connect with nature and with history, from ancient forest bathing to walking in the footsteps of those who dared to flee during the Second World War. The on-sight Espace Horloger gives guests an insight into the art of watchmaking, while the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet is also in the village of Le Brassus. The building alone is worth a visit: Its circular, watch-faced design and green roof make it a must on both watch and architecture lover’s bucket lists. hoteldeshorlogers.com/en

2. WALK ON WATER ESTONIA’S WETLANDS

Yes, that’s what we said. Walk on water. In Estonia’s wetlands, you can do just that. Rent a pair of specially designed wetland shoes, and take a stroll. Soomaa, a protected area of the country, covers 390 square kilometres of bogs, marshes and bird, orchid and nature preserves. After winter’s snow melts and heavy rains, what Estonians call the fifth season, occurs, immersing the area in “the great flood.” But it’s not just about water here – it’s also typical to overhear a local say “The forest is our church,” as more than half of the country’s mainland is covered in woodlands. The garden as therapy is a daily meditation, with “fast” food coming as fast as it grows. It’s no wonder that Estonia is the first Baltic country to be recognized by Michelin, with 31 spots on the foodie-revered ranking’s list. visitestonia.com/en/

3. RETHINK ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME PUT AFRICA BACK ON YOUR BUCKET LIST

Don’t just take our word for it. Take the word of stylemakers such as Chanel and Valentino. In December 2022, the venerable Parisian fashion house chose to partner with Dakar, Senegal, where it held its Métiers d’art 2023 collection show, and its first in Africa. Valentino also set its sights on the continent, when the Italian house’s designer, Pierpaolo Piccioli, swapped the reimagining of dresses with South African designer Thebe Magugu. Fairways are beckoning, with some of the best golf – from the PGA-rated courses of Egypt to Morocco to South Africa – playing through. southafrica.net/us/en/travel

And, by all means, take that safari, but go beyond. Spend some time in the capital cities, such as Nairobi, Kenya, where you can stay at the historic landmark Fairmont The Norfolk hotel before heading out to the game parks. A special place in the city’s origin story, as Nairobi’s urban plan was developed around the property, which, along with its Kenyan sister properties Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club and Fairmont Mara Safari, also provides city-to-safari experiences. The Norfolk’s played host to the likes of Ernest Hemingway, so take a journal and write your own story. And don’t miss Kigali, Rwanda, where you can combine an urban visit with a once-in-a-lifetime trek to see the lowland gorillas.

fairmont.com/norfolk-hotel-nairobi

Photo by Jarek Jõepera/Visit Estonia

Soomaa National Park, West Estonia

DESERT CANVAS

On a trip to Scottsdale, Charmaine Noronha discovers the Sonoran Desert provides the perfect backdrop for an arts-based adventure.

ON A WARM November night, a sea of spectators ooh and aah as flames shoot 30 feet in the air from the waters of the Arizona Canal, in sync with the sounds of Bruno Mars. A handful of others use pedal power on bikedriven generators to light up a grove of tree-like sculptures, while a gaggle of kids gleefully hop on LED panels that light up with each bounce. These and other dazzling installations illuminate Scottdale’s waterfront as far as the eye can see.

Everyone has gathered here to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Canal Convergence, an annual festival presented by Scottsdale Public Art. The 10-day festival brings together dozens of works of art from around the world, including a number from Canadian artists, plus workshops, live performances and more. Event organizers have deemed the event sustainable, grassroots arts.

“We wanted to have a signature event for Scottsdale, and it’s going to get even bigger in the future,” says Wendy Raisanen, curator of exhibitions and collections at Scottsdale

Arts. “We’re planning on turning it into an arts version of sustainability similar to South by Southwest [in Austin, Texas].”

A large-scale arts event in Scottsdale, you wonder? While thoughts of the southwest city usually conjure up images of the arid Sonoran, sprawling golf courses and delightful cacti-laden desert hikes, what many people don’t know is that it’s also a city with a thriving arts scene and iconic architecture. Canal Convergence is just one of Scottsdale’s intriguing arts attractions.

1. THE SCOTTSDALE MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART (SMOCA)

Award-winning architect Will Bruder beautifully transformed a former movie theatre into The Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art. SMoCA’s minimalist building has four galleries, one of which features “Language in Times of Miscommunication,” an exhibition that explores the complexities of social realities during miscommunications. Recently, the museum hosted an exhibition of 40 works by notable Black artists including Kehinde Wiley, Amoako Boafo, Tschabalala

Self and others, drawn from the collection of Scottsdale locals Iris and Adam Singer. Titled “In Our Time: Selections from the Singer Collection,” the exhibition would have been equally at home in New York or Los Angeles. smoca.org

The Sybil B. Harrington Cactus and Succulent Gallery at the Desert Botanical Garden

“The Doors” by Donald Lipski is part of the Scottsdale Public Art Program.

Photographs: Scott McGinty for Experience Scottssdale and Christine Johnson for Experience Scottsdale

2. WESTERN SPIRIT: SCOTTSDALE’S MUSEUM OF THE WEST

Wander three blocks from SMoCA to Scottsdale’s Museum of the West to explore the region’s history, brought to life through Western and Native American art and artifacts. The museum’s exhibit “Light and Legacy: The Art and Technique of Edward S. Curtis” features the work of a photographer and ethnographer who captured images of indigenous tribes in the early 20th century to document cultures that he feared were vanishing. Western Spirit also displays Native American artifacts including Navajo chiefs’ blankets, robes and regalia.

scottsdalemuseumwest.org

3. NATIVE ART MARKET

The Native Art Market is Old Town’s only Indigenous-owned store. Located between SMoCA and Western Spirit, the gallery retails beautiful, authentic Native American pottery, paintings, fashion, jewelry and decorative items

from more than 300 artists representing nearly 30 tribes. The proceeds go directly to the artists. The indoor market was created during the pandemic to help Native artists affected by the disruption of cultural events throughout the United States.

From Thursday to Monday between 11 am and 5 pm, you can catch riveting dance and musical performances in-store. On Saturdays from November through March, the market sets up an outdoor space where visitors can meet the artists and see live performances. thenativeartmarket.com

4. ARTWALKS

Year-round on Thursday nights (7 pm to 9 pm), you can join free ArtWalks in the Scottsdale Arts District. Dozens of galleries open their doors, and this is the longest-running event of its kind in the country. scottsdalegalleries.com

5. WONDERSPACES

Wonderspaces is a year-round, evolving art show featuring interactive, innovative and fun artwork from around the world. The ’gramfriendly Scottsdale installation is the first permanent location of the popular art pop-up. View current artwork at Arizona.Wonderspaces.com.

6. CATTLETRACK ARTS COMPOUND

You might drive by this collection of 1930s adobe structures without realising that they’re part of an artist colony set on 13 acres. In the 1970s, this hidden-gem art enclave housed Fritz Scholder, an influential Native American

painter credited for reinventing Native American painting, as well as sculptor Louise Nevelson. Philip C. Curtis, Cattle Track’s most famous artist-in-residence, founded the Phoenix Art Museum in 1936.

Visitors can step inside the studios of painters, pottery makers, dancers, photographers and even blacksmiths to view their work, interact with the artists and purchase their creations. Spend time with artist Mark McDowell if you can – he’ll regale you with entertaining stories about the compound for days! cattletrack.org

7. TALIESIN WEST

Pulling up to Taliesin West, the winter home of renowned architect Frank Lloyd Wright, feels otherworldly. The architectural wonder is set against a backdrop of towering cacti, the McDowell Mountains and the Sonoran Desert. In this desert, the renowned architect built this expansive mid-century modern compound to align with its natural surroundings and materials. Wright called it “standing on the rim of the world” of Paradise Valley.

Wright began work on the house – now a UNESCO World Heritage Site – in 1937. Audio and guided tours explain how light and landscape intermingle to create architectural symbiosis.

Today, Taliesin West is home to The Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation and The School of Architecture. The Foundation offers themed tours, as well as Sunsets and Sips – think happy hour with sweeping mountain vistas. franklloydwright.org/taliesin-west

experiencescottsdale.com

“Into the Breath” by Stefano Ogliari Badessi at Wonderspaces Arizona

Knight Rise at Sunset museum tour

THE ROAD TO WELLVILLE

Ready to reset and recharge?

Here, our shortlist of feel-good places across the globe – from Carlsbad to Koh Samui.

BY VAWN HIMMELSBACH

THESE DAYS, a trip to the spa isn’t just about getting a massage or a facial. Health and wellness centres are becoming destinations unto themselves, often combining ancient healing techniques with the latest in cuttingedge medical research. Many offer packages or programs that tackle a range of health issues to leave you glowing from the inside and out.

THE SPA AT LA COSTA

Omni La Costa Resort & Spa, Carlsbad, California

BEST FOR: Whole-body wellness

As you step into The Spa at La Costa, you’re immediately wrapped in the aroma of earthy vetiver, soothing sandalwood and sensuous jasmine – a new signature scent inspired by the famed flower fields of Carlsbad. This scent, Sundarya, is infused into all of the spa’s signature treatments.

When Omni La Costa Resort & Spa first opened its doors north of San Diego in 1965, it attracted Hollywood’s elite – like the Rat Pack – for its seclusion and sunny SoCal vibe. Spread out over 400 acres dotted with palm trees and bougainvillea, it was known as the “original destination for mind, body and sport.” The resort has changed and expanded over the years, but continues to carry this tradition forward in its spa, offering a whole-body wellness experience. The sprawling 43,000-square-foot spa features Spanish Mission-style architecture and an outdoor courtyard with a private pool, waterfall showers and spa café, which uses herbs

straight from the spa’s very own herb garden, warmly known as Alicia’s Garden, named for the long-term member of the culinary team who tends to the herbs. There’s also a therapeutic reflexology path, with smooth beach stones laid in a pattern that stimulates pressure points on the feet.

The spa recently entered into a new partnership with Ayurvedic skincare brand Shankara, which uses synergistic blends of anti-aging, antioxidant-rich ingredients and therapeutic essential oils in its products. Ayurveda is a traditional system of health and wellness developed in India – practiced for thousands of years – based on a holistic approach to physical and mental health.

Shankara has been a pioneer in the beauty

and wellness space since 2001, sourcing allnatural ingredients in a responsible manner and donating 100 per cent of its profits to humanitarian causes worldwide.

Embracing the Shankara philosophy, The Spa at La Costa has introduced five new face and body treatments to its spa menu, including the Shirodhara Treatment, in which a stream of warm herbal-infused oil is continuously poured over the forehead to quiet the mind, calm the nervous system and ease tension held around the head and neck.

Also noteworthy is the Chakra Balancing Treatment, which balances the body’s energy centres (known as ‘chakras’) with an Ayurvedic kansa massage wand, full-body aromatherapy massage and the placement of chakra stones.

Omni La Costa Resort & Spa, Carlsbad, California

Recharging at The Spa at La Costa

Circular massage motions along the spine with the kansa wand helps to awaken the chakras, while specific stones are used to balance the body.

You can take your wellness journey a step further with customizable half- and full-day retreats. The spa has also teamed up with the health experts at Best Life-ing to offer private healing experiences and custom-curated wellness retreats. Best Life-ing, a ‘wellness concierge,’ opened its first location in Miami Beach two years ago, followed by a second location at The Spa at La Costa. By bringing together different healers, teachers and coaches, you can choose from a variety of healing modalities, workshops and experiences to support your individual journey.

The healing modalities include regression hypnotherapy (exploring your subconscious mind to discover past-life memories, heal trauma and align with your purpose), conscious breathwork (controlled breathing for relaxation, meditation or therapeutic purposes), reiki (an ancient healing method that manipulates energy flow in the body), yoga (Kundalini, Bhakti or advanced), guided meditation and life coaching, as well as massage and bodywork.

Also on offer are massages, facials, body wraps and clinical treatments, as well as couples massages with Champagne and chocolatecovered strawberries. Along with an Athletic Club, eight pools and two golf courses –complemented by the Golf Performance Institute – the resort makes for an idyllic getaway with a focus on whole-body wellness.

omnihotels.com/hotels/ san-diego-la-costa

We may have started on the road to wellness in California, but here are three more destinations to get your healthy glow on.

1.THE SPA AT WALDORF ASTORIA

Los Cabos Pedregal

Los Cabos, Mexico

BEST FOR: Self-love retreats

At the tip of Mexico’s Baja California peninsula is the Waldorf Astoria Spa, spread out over 24 secluded acres, offering treatments inspired by the phases of the moon, the power of the ocean and Mexican folk healing techniques. Through the use of herbs, rituals and energetic healing, the spa creates bespoke experiences in open-air treatment rooms. Come here for the spa’s wellness vacations, including its new Self-Love Retreats, which include breathing sessions, mindfulness workshops and spa treatments.

waldorfastorialoscabospedregal.com/ spa

2. KAMALAYA KOH SAMUI

Koh Samui, Thailand

BEST FOR: Boosting longevity

This Thai wellness sanctuary – nestled in lush tropical vegetation alongside a stretch of private beach – combines holistic medicine traditions from East and West, with a menu of more than 70 therapies and treatments. It also offers a range of comprehensive wellness programs, including Wellbeing Sabbatical, Sleep Enhancement and Embracing Change. New is Kamalaya’s Longevity House, which features regenerative treatments such as IV vitamin infusions, ozone therapy and hyperbaric oxygen therapy. kamalaya.com

3. EAU SPA

Eau Palm Beach Resort & Spa, Palm Beach, Florida

BEST FOR: Indulgent self-care

Eau Spa takes self-care to a whole new level. You’re greeted with a glass of Champagne upon arrival at this 42,000-square-foot spa playground for adults – where indulgence is encouraged. Float a candle in the bronze wishing well before your treatment, complete with customized scents, music and lighting colour. Then relax in a swinging chair with bubbly and whipped cupcakes in the SelfCentered Garden, an oasis with draped cabanas, lush water gardens and central dipping pool. eaupalmbeach.com

A welcoming entrance at The Spa at La Costa

Beachside at Waldorf Astoria Los Cabos Pedregal

SAVOURING ST. MARTIN

How to have a Foodie vacation in the Culinary Capital of the Caribbean.

BY MEGAN HONAN

FROM FINE-DINING French establishments, to unpretentious Creole street food – there is something for everyone in the foodie destination of St. Martin. Here’s our shortlist of culinary experiences you won’t want to miss.

Nestled in the archipelago of the Leeward Islands lies St. Martin, a quick four hour flight from most major cities in North America – and yet upon my arrival I feel worlds away. Famed for its blend of two countries on one island, St. Martin is home to both Dutch Sint Maarten and French Saint-Martin. Which is perhaps why the island is dubbed the “Culinary Capital of the Caribbean,” offering plenty of local flavour within 100km. Recently, tourists and chefs alike have flocked in droves to the island for a taste of Michelin-informed French dishes, as well as the comfort of heart and soul Creole food.

GO LOLO ST. MARTIN’S STREET FOOD SCENE

In need of a home-cooked meal, I set out in search of lolos, open-air food stands that line the pier of Marigot. Here, local chefs, better known as Belongers, serve up creative, flavourful Creole dishes. At Hot Spot, a small stand tucked next to the market, the sound of sizzling hot johnny cakes greets me, along with owner Darrell Brooks. “Welcome to the best lolo on the island. I swear to you, no better deal in town,” says Brooks, and the menu backs him up: a full islanders breakfast, consisting of fried plantains, codfish, eggs, home fries, bacon and, of course, johnny cakes – all for $10.

Johnny cakes are baked bread patties that over decades have become a homegrown tradition in St. Martin. “There were no bakeries back in the day, so johnny cakes were prepared

by wives to give to their husbands to bring to plantations,” says Brooks. “They wouldn’t have time to eat breakfast, so they would pick at the bread all day. They were originally called journey cakes, as it was eaten on the way to work, but over time with our accent it just turned into johnny cakes.”

Harbour at Marigo, the French capital of St Martin

Photographs: Saint Martin Tourism, La Cigale Restaurant, Loterie Farm

GO LOCAL HEAD TO A SECRET FOODIE HIDEAWAY

I drive onwards, deep into the Colombier region. Twisting into the mountainside, the snaking roadway opens once more to rolling green pastures, home to grazing cattle. The region is lush and tropical, thanks to Pic Paradis, the highest point on the entire island, pushing more rain and moisture into the valley than any other spot.

Here lies one of the island's best kept secrets, Loterie Farm. Home to St. Martin’s only private nature reserve, the land boasts 135 acres of hiking trails, a restaurant and spring-fed pools – an adult wonderland of sorts. I joined the owner, William ‘BJ’ Welch, for some guavaberry cocktails in the Jungle Room, a Caribbean take on tapas. “I grew up in California surrounded by hippies,” says Welch. “Which is probably why sustainability is so important to me. Most of what you see on the menu is straight from our land.”

Welch’s restaurant has brought new panache to the region, while still paying homage to its rugged island heritage. The menu reflects

this sentiment with ribeye steak being served alongside Creole Mahi Mahi. “As for future plans, I want to open a new fine dining destination with a North African twist. I want to move away from the European flair of the island and introduce something new,” says Welch.

Before leaving, I’ve already solidified plans to return and experience the next evolution of local cuisine.

GO FRENCH RESERVE A GOURMET TABLE WITH A WATERFRONT VIEW

Later, standing on the edge of Baie Nettlé, I watch as the sky smatters into a rainbow of colours – red, yellow, orange and pink. I’ve

arrived at La Cigale, a well-known institution on the island renowned for their traditional French cuisine. First opened in 1998, the family run restaurant is nestled in a lagoon, where candlelight adds a warm glow to waterfront tables.

The Maître D pulls out my chair, inviting me to relax with my toes in the sand. A warm breeze blows through, causing the palms overhead to dance. The head chef, David Sendron, makes his way over to my table with a huge grin on his face. “Welcome to our little slice of France tucked away in the Caribbean!” he says. I knew I was in for a treat.

The menu is peppered with seafood dishes that make my mouth water, featuring lobster truffled bisque soup, sea scallops, and fresh sea bass fillet. I have a hard time deciding, so I do the rational thing and order a sample of each. With each bite, I can taste the salt of the sea, which is only further complimented by the minerality of my wine.

Sendron makes his rounds one last time, ensuring each guest leaves no morsel behind. “There’s something about this place. I don’t know what it is, but in St. Martin every bite of food and every sip of wine just tastes better. It’s magical,” he says.

I can’t help but agree. st-martin.org

For more, read the BOLD Traveller guide to St. Martin: What to do and where to stay, at boldtraveller.ca.

La Cigale Restaurant dinner service with a beach view

The pool at Loterie farm, home to St. Martin’s only private nature reserve

“The Local Love” cocktail made with Guavaberry, coconut, lime and leetchi

FROM PRICEY CREAMS

to age-defying serums, many of us happily, and heavily, invest in elaborate skincare regimens. But what about sunscreen? Too often it’s an after-thought or simply no thought at all. Yet, one in six Canadians will develop skin cancer in their lifetime – with 80,000 diagnosed this year alone – which means sunscreen needs to be the most important skincare step of all. So, whether it’s the backyard or beaches this summer, fun in the sun starts with full protection.

While that burning ball of hot plasma we know as the sun has been powering the earth for the past 4.5 billion years, the idea of avoiding its rays is relatively recent. Around 3100 B.C., ancient Egyptians began using rice bran to protect themselves from the sun’s darkening effects while millennia later First Nations people harnessed sunflower oil and aloe gel to avoid burning. But it wasn’t until 1932 that Australian Milton Blake developed the first commercial sunscreen for widespread use.

Almost a century later, pharmacy shelves are now jam-packed with modern iterations, yet many of us still don’t routinely embrace this literal lifesaver. Whether it’s the “hassle,” the allure of the oxymoronic “healthy tan” or simply a general lack of understanding around the dizzying array of choices, overcoming excuses to sunscreen literacy is the first step.

SUNSCREEN 101

A basic primer starts with the fact that there’s no one-size-fits-all. First, SPF, or sun protection factor, indicates how many of the sun’s UVB rays it blocks. SPF 30 blocks 97 percent while SPF 100 blocks 99 percent – a scant difference, but most doctors don’t recommend anything below SPF 30 (SPF 15, for example, blocks 93 percent) and, at no time does the higher the SPF mean lounging longer in the sun.

Not all topical sunblocks are created equal, but skipping the SPF is no longer an option if you want to save your skin. Amanda Ross breaks it down and goes deeper into the science.

SUN SIGNS

EXPERT TIP: Always choose broad spectrum coverage, which means both UVA and UVB rays are blocked (UVB rays cause sunburn while UVA rays contribute to cancer and premature aging).

MINERAL OR CHEMICAL?

All sunscreen comes in two formats: mineral (often called physical) or chemical. Mineral sunscreen’s mainly titanium and zinc oxide ingredients create a physical barrier that sits atop your skin and deflects the sun’s harmful UVA and UVB rays to prevent them from getting absorbed. Their natural ingredients are coral-reef safe (Hawaii, for example, only allows reef-safe sunscreen) and their consistency has come a long way from the cakey, white-nosed lifeguard look (transparent versions of zinc

Photographs: Courtesy of the brands

oxide are thankfully becoming the norm). They’re now also considerably lighter than they used to be with a variety of tints on offer to better blend with a variety of skin tones.

EXPERT TIP: Mineral sunscreens may be more gentle on sensitive skin around the eyes.

Chemical sunscreens’ lower price point and wider availability means they dominate the market. These sunscreens work like a sponge that soaks up the sun’s damaging rays and then releases them as heat. And, while their main ingredients – avobenzone, octinoxate and oxybenzone – can sound alarming, there’s no scientific concern about their actual safety to humans. “Research shows chemical sunscreens are safe for babies, children and adults,” says Dr. Janet Ip, a cosmetic physician at Vancouver’s Project Skin MD and a UBC clinical instructor, who also has a medical practice with a special interest in skin cancer. “We should be far more concerned about the chemicals in the packaged food we eat.”

EXPERT TIP: This category is much easier to apply, too, which means that if people are more likely to lather up with a chemical sunscreen, then that’s a win.

CLIMATE CHANGES

While everyone should be wearing sunscreen regardless of age or gender, suncare selection should adjust according to climate. Canadians live above the 37th parallel – the latitudinal line dermatologists use to separate the northern hemisphere into intensity of the sun’s rays –with north of that line being less intense, which is a positive for us Canucks. Yet, even within our own country, there are vastly different conditions from coast to coast, which also dictates what type of sunscreen you’ll need. B.C. is humid so a light texture would be more comfortable while a more emollient formulation lasts longer in drier Alberta. Ontario is both dry and humid so a light, but creamy texture works best here.

EXPERT TIP: When you’re travelling south of the 37th parallel, your vacation research should factor in a climate-suitable sunscreen you’ll actually want to wear.

PHYSICALLY FIT

Activity also dictates your sunscreen line-up. Everyday protection for the city should be lightweight and 35-40 ml should be enough to cover the entire body (if you’re in an office, a mineral face powder sunscreen to touch-up your morning application should suffice). Conversely, recreational sunscreen needs to be water-resistant, long-lasting and should be

reapplied every two hours (note that if you’ve got combination or oily skin, extended use of chemical or mineral recreational sunscreen can lead to pores becoming clogged). And if you suffer from skin conditions like melasma, gentler mineral sunscreen is always recommended. “Any kind of sun exposure can make melasma and hyperpigmentation worse so a higher SPF does hold some value,” says Dr. Ip.

EXPERT TIP: To help navigate these pesky dermal issues, the Canadian Dermatology Association offers a Recognized Sun Protection logo on products that have passed rigorous tests for having low potential for irritation, are minimally or non-perfumed, and non-comedogenic.

It's all a lot to take in, but there’s also a lot at stake. “It’s about saving your skin at any age,” says Dr. Ip. So spend a few pre-summer moments formulating a sun defence plan— your skin will thank you for years to come.

FIVE GO-TO SUNSCREENS

1 Dermalogica’s Porescreen SPF 40 minimizes the appearance of pores in a faintly tinted mineral sunscreen made with green microalgae, squalene and vitamin E. 30 ml, $77; available at dermalogica.ca

2 Men’s cult-fave brand Jack Black offers up its Moisture Therapy Lip Balm SPF 25 with shea butter and avocado oil to give you something to smile about. 7 ml, $14; available at Holt Renfrew.

3 A lightweight serum full of vitamins, antioxidants and chamomile, Summer Fridays’ ShadeDrops Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Mineral Milk sunscreen comes reefsafe, too. 50 ml, $47; available at Sephora .

4 The Anthelios Age Correct SPF 50 by La Roche-Posay is chock full of skincare ingredients like fragmented hyaluronic acid, PHE resorcinol, and niacinamide for a double-whammy age-control cream and sunscreen in one. 50 ml, $54.95; available at Shoppers Drug Mart.

5 Ombrelle’s Daily UV Anti-Dry face moisturizer SPF 60 protects and hydrates skin (and is non-comedogenic) for up to 24 hours. 50 ml, $25; available at Walmart.

SPRING’S FRESH TAKES

The scents of the season inspire a sense of the past but with a look to the future.

BY AMANDA ROSS

Photograph: Peter Augustin/Gallerystock

RAGRANCE HAS the power to evoke such intense memories that the experience bears a name: a Proustian moment. Whether it’s the aroma of a tea-doused madeleine, Chanel No5 or the interior of a new car, scent can transport you to another time and place with just one whiff. Whether it’s tea with your grandmother or the first day of high school, memories are forever locked in rose and jasmine, and even the volatile organic compounds of a newly minted Mazda.

As babies, it’s our sense of smell that’s the first to develop, which works to help us feel safe and secure from the outside world. The scent of a mother’s milk sends a signal to our limbic system, the part of the brain that controls emotion and memory. And science shows that, at any age, scent can lower stress and improve mental clarity – keys to our ongoing happiness and wellbeing.

In the digital age, however, sights and sounds have taken centre stage, which threaten to supplant the nose and the key role it plays in that happiness and wellbeing. What’s more, like any muscle that doesn’t get used, our olfactory senses become dull as we age so it’s important to take the time to stop and smell the roses –literally.

To help with that task, here’s a bevy of fresh spring fragrances – some with rose, others with spice – but all are designed to delight and deliver a whole new set of meaningful memories in one fell sniff.

1. NINA NATURE BY NINA RICCI

In 1932, former Italian-born seamstress, Maria Nielli, opened her Nina Ricci-labelled fashion and perfume house in Paris and, almost 100 years later, that feminine legacy lives on in the new limited-edition Nina Nature eau de toilette. Made with Granny Smith apple extract and upcycled lemons from the food industry (their zests still alive with citrus oil), this clean, vegan fragrance hits all the right notes when layered with jasmine, vanilla and white musk. 50 ml, $92, thebay.com

2. MISS DIOR BLOOMING BOUQUET

First launched in 2014, Miss Dior’s Blooming Bouquet in hits of orange, rose and musk relaunches this season in a more lightweight glass bottle adorned with a couture jacquard bow handcrafted in the workshop of one of France’s most renowned ribbon makers, Maison Faure. 100 ml, $180, holtrenfrew.com

3. GUERLAIN AQUA ALLEGORIA FORTE NEROLI VETIVER

One of the world’s oldest beauty companies also happens to be one of its greenest. Guerlain ships product by boat, not air, to keep its carbon footprint down and works to protect bees. This spring, Neroli Vetiver joins the Aqua Allegoria Forte opus with a floral and spiced eau de parfum offering made with fig, pettigrain distilled from orange tree leaves and French beetroot alcohol – all housed in the iconic beeadorned bottle. 75 ml, $156, sephora.ca

4. PACO RABANNE INVICTUS VICTORY ELIXIR

This year saw the passing of Franco-Spanish designer Paco Rabanne, a veritable renaissance man who dabbled in everything from fashion sketches for Dior to costume design for the movie Barbarella. In 1968, Rabanne launched his inaugural fragrance, Calandre, while this spring’s launch of Invictus Victory Elixir marks his creation of a heady new men’s scent in notes of amber, wood and spice. 100 ml, $145, beautyboutique.ca

5. CHANEL ALLURE HOMME ALL-OVER SPRAY

For men on the move, there’s Chanel’s new sensuous Allure Homme, a fresh and woody eau de toilette body spray redolent of bergamot, black pepper from Madagascar and Japanese green citrus extract. 100 ml, $99, holtrenfrew.com

6. MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN 724 EAU DE PARFUM TRAVEL SET

Slip these tiny vials of Maison Francis Kurkdjian 724 eau de parfum in the custom Globe Trotter spray case for a sophisticated scent wardrobe wherever you go. Inspired by the smell and feel of big city energy, fragrances like bergamot from Italy and jasmine absolute from Egypt are as well travelled as you. Five 11-ml refills with a Gold Edition Globe Trotter case/$355, franciskurkdjian.com

The jaw-dropping “Peacock” watch for women from Chopard’s High Jewellery Collection

HAUTE HOROLOGY

Time keeps on ticking. Here,

LAST YEAR’S Watches and Wonders Geneva (a new name, a new show!) was a groundbreaking success. And, after two years of virtual showings, it was a wonder, indeed, to have several dozen brands convened in Geneva, exhibiting – in person! But this year’s event at the Palexpo hosted nearly 50 brands, showcasing thousands of glimmering, glittering, mystifying, brain-defying, and simply stunning timepieces. And, for those who love complications, there were the usual frontal-lobe-defying mechanical movements that utterly dazzled. Whether you go in for simple, sleek and clean lines, or jewel-encrusted, fanciful dials, there was something for the casual shopper and the serious collector.

WATCH TRENDS TO WATCH (OKAY, FORGIVE US!)

LARGER FACES: The streamlined, more diminutive cases of yesteryear are fading into the memory bank of watchmakers. Statement-making cases are on the rise, so look for bolder, more decorative, more in-your-face beauties, as well as cases that make statements, all by themselves.

BRAZEN COLOUR: Yes, of course, the neutrals and the subtly-toned palette will always appeal to certain customers, but expect to see much more colour this coming year. Bold hues, bright statements, vibrant faces, lively watch bands. The Ralph Lauren women’s watches were shown with a red band and white face and, in truth, it could be unisex (another popular theme to look for), but if you look at the same Stirrup model with a black band and a black face, it speaks an entirely different language. Look for mix-and-match choices like that.

MIXED MEDIA AND MATERIALS: You’ll find a mélange of colours, textures, materials and metals in the newest-trending watches. And that is not surprising, as sustainability is also a keynote moving into the future. A melding of surface ornamentation, or unique watch bands, or the unusual use of a unique material all speak to individuality.

MORE IS MORE – EMBELLISHED WATCHES: You’ll find more decorative touches, unique staccato notes of explosive design and interesting twists on old themes, as les manufactures allow their design teams to dream of Michelangelo, Monet or Max (as in Peter). Expect excitement and euphoria.

SMART WATCHES: Apple and Samsung have not cornered the market here. You’ll see plenty of watches that speak to the latest in technology and that do things you never dreamed of – like helping you to start roasting a chicken at home while you are still at the airport. Well, not quite. But smart is a key word for the coming years.

Also, the popular GMT watches (Greenwich Mean Time – ground zero, so to speak, for setting the base for all other global time zones) have been very popular in recent times. And with the rise of “revenge travel,” fulfilling the pent-up desire to go, go, go, we are also seeing elegant, handsome watches that have the benefit of presenting your time as well as the time somewhere else…or in many other places. Another look to pay attention to is the retro reinvention of older styles, but with a modern twist. As we noted, this season there is truly something for everyone –and at price points that will span everything from affordable to aspirational.

Ruth J. Katz clocks in to the (watch) faces of the future.

THE LATEST WRIST ACTION 1 2

1. GLITTERATI

Heads will turn when you sport the Bell & Ross women’s BR05 Diamond watch (40mm. case), which is available with a black rubber or satin-polished steel band – or a satin-polished steel with centre links, set with 218 diamonds. Ooh, la la. From US $11,000; bellross.com

2. BIRDS OF A FEATHER

The jaw-dropping “Peacock” watch for women from Chopard’s High Jewellery Collection – part of the Animal World series – requires nearly 350 hours of expert craftsmanship, and astounds with 2,230 gemstones (including tourmalines, sapphires, tsavorites and lazulites), all set in 18-kt. white gold and titanium. Price upon request; chopard.com

3. HORSEY SET

From Ralph Lauren's Stirrup Collection, the smaller model (with quartz movement) will suit a lady’s wrist, and features a white face and red leather band. Designed with striking Roman numerals, a printed minute track, and oxidised, sword-shaped hands, captured in the iconic stirrup shape. CAD $3,250; ralphlauren.com

Photographs: Courtesy of the brands

4. GLOBETROTTER

Harkening to its rich tradition to champion co-branded watches, Asprey has partnered with Andersen Geneve to create the 'Heures du Monde' classic worldtimer, with its rich bluegold, guillochéd pattern, inspired by a bit of Art Deco and a touch of Bauhaus. The 39-mm. case, in pink gold, encircles the names of worldly destinations for the ardent jet-setter. Price upon request; time.asprey.com

5. NATURAL WONDER

Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Collection mushrooms each year, presenting more handsome timepieces worth coveting and collecting. This Royal Oak Selfwinding (37 mm.) unisex watch in 18-kt. yellow gold features an exquisite turquoise face, cut from a single stone (mined in Mexico), and then ground with precision, sandblasted and polished, before being incorporated into this exquisite timepiece. Price upon request; audemarspiguet.com

6. MILITARY PRECISION

The new Supermarine Chrono (43 mm. outer case measurement) for men from Bremont features a three-piece case construction with a DLC-coated middle-case barrel. This chronograph sports GMT functionality that assuredly appeals to global explorers, who will also appreciate the sleek construction, a mere 15.8 mm. thick. US $6,795; us.bremont.com

*prices are approximate and subject to change without notice.

A TIME & A PLACE

Charting the evolution of the wristwatch, from its royal roots to its modern complications.

BY VIVIAN VASSOS

WHEN CAROLINE MURAT, Napoleon Bonaparte’s youngest sister, needed to tell the time, she went to a Bonaparte court favourite, Abraham-Louis Breguet. The then Queen of Naples did not want a pocket watch, or a watch that she would have to pin to her gown. She wanted functional jewellery. She wanted a bracelet.

And, so, the first wrist watch was born, aka Breguet’s Reine de Naples. It comes as no surprise that the innovation was inspired by a woman, and Caroline was known to be a bit of a fan-girl – as was Marie-Antoinette – when it came to Breguet’s creations. In fact, Breguet also designed one of the most complicated watches of the time for Marie-Antoinette, known as the no. 160, a self-winding model that she wore throughout her reign.

Breguet’s timepieces and “bracelets” were sported all over Europe, from France and the Kingdom of Naples, to Austria and Italy. In England, Queen Victoria took a Breguet travel clock on her royal tours, and then there’s the Duchess of Wellington, whose style no. 3023 is a quarter-repeating, neoclassical model that is currently on display at The Louvre in Paris.

But it is Caroline Murat’s “bracelet” that is truly worth celebrating. “Breguet was an artist; a founder neo-classicist in watchmaking and opposite of the more Baroque,” Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca tells me during our meeting in Santa Monica at The Fairmont Miramar, during the 2023 Frieze Art Fair. “He was also an engineer and an astronomer.” Clearly the company infused the original founder’s astronomy leanings into current watch styles,

such as the Men’s perpetual Classique 7337 and the new 7327, both featuring the phases of the moon and starry nights. Time, a Marca adds, is intrinsic to the human experience. “Everyone needs to know the time, and my objective – always a desire of mine – is to show how [through watchmaking] time is passing.”

Speaking of time, Breguet partnered with the artist Pablo Bronstein to create ephemeral

works – a series of wallpapers, with the final work for Frieze LA shown this past February at the fair and, of course, inspired by time and timepieces. To my eye, the panoramic artwork’s abstract flow was reminiscent of Salvador Dali but, says the House of Breguet, it also reflects Bronstein’s fascination with the industrial revolution. The next Frieze x Breguet partnership will include the female independent curator Somi Sim, who, according to the House, is presenting an exhibition of artworks she’s chosen centred around the different notions of time.

Apropos, as the Reine de Naples was created, in a way, by a woman for women. Caroline ordered it in 1810 and received it in 1812. It’s said that the strap was akin to a finely wrought gold thread.

What a Marca brings to the table now, he says, is the ability to facilitate, to put together, these iconic legends and styles like Reine, and present them to the modern watch wearer, collector, aficionado.

With the Reine de Naples, a Marca understands that it was Caroline who defined the form of the watch. “The shape has not changed,” he says, “but it might possibly evolve.” Baroque, as a Marca defines it, “is not clean, it’s heavy; we wanted something clean, and innovative,” he adds. The numerals are Arabic, a detail that has been maintained in the new iteration of the watches. Although an original from the 1800s is yet to be found, the watch was relaunched early this century, using notes from the substantial and carefully preserved Breguet museum archives, which are located in Paris and in Zurich.

Fit for a queen, if we do say so ourselves. breguet.com/en

The men’s Classique No. 7337, $54,600; Royal de Versailles, Toronto.

The Reine de Naples No. 8918, in light rose, $46,200; Royal de Versailles, Toronto

VIRGINIA

Photos: Courtesy of Visit Virginia

7 EXPERIENCES YOU’LL CARRY IN YOUR HEART FOREVER

VIRGINIA IS A LAND full of surprise and delight. Its history encourages a closer look; its present day calls for exploration. It’s a place of firsts – of the first vitis vinifera vines planted by wouldbe winemaker Thomas Jefferson brought from Italy by his friend Filippo Mazzei, for example. A founder of America, but also a founder of winemaking in America. You can still visit the vineyards at Monticello, Jefferson’s home in Charlottesville. There’s a royal connection, too. Virginia was named for Queen Elizabeth I, by King Charles II (almost deja vu, if we do say so). Court gossip went into overdrive: It was heard through the grapevine that Sir Walter Raleigh, a lover of the Queen’s, suggested it.

Speaking of firsts, Virginia was the first place in North America to be settled by the English, inspiring the King to nickname it The Old Dominion (a bit of trivia: it’s still officially known as the Commonwealth

of Virginia, and is one of the 13 original States). Jamestown is a year older than Quebec City, born more than 400 years ago; it’s long-shed the vestiges of a dominion, yet it does not shy from its storied past. From being the Mother of States to recognizing its role in the American Revolution, remembrance and reconciliation is in the fabric of modern Virginia.

It’s also a land of welcoming green spaces, beautiful beaches and those places that live in our imaginations through song (“my old Virginia home”), and pop culture (Dirty Dancing, anyone?). From the Shenandoah Valley to the Blue Ridge Mountains to Chesapeake Bay, it’s easy to fall in love with this place.

It’s where Baby and Johnny dirty danced their way to love – parts of Virginia stood in for a fictional resort area in the Catskills; and where a real-life Johnny (Cash, that is), fell in love with June. But, like Baby, you can’t put Virginia in a corner. Its cultural and geographical diversity and complex history make it unique among its sister states. From Eastern Canada, it’s a short drive; or a quick flight to Washington Dulles airport – which is actually in Virginia – from across the country.

The place is for lovers, after all. Need a little romance? Here, seven more reasons to fall in love with Virginia.

1STAY AT THE SALAMANDER REVEL IN VIRGINIA’S WINE AND HORSE COUNTRY

This resort and spa in Middleburg was created by its CEO Sheila Johnson, the co-founder of the BET Network, and America’s first black woman billionaire. Horse lovers will want to book for the equestrian centre, with 25 acres offered for entry-level equestrians, trail rides and lessons – and a unique Equine Communication program, in which leadership and “horse whispering” are paired up. For those of us who prefer to keep our feet on the ground, there are also archery skills to take in. The spa is inspired by nature, and has scored a Forbes five-star rating.

THE SKY’S THE LIMIT AT THE OBSERVATORY AT PRIMLAND RESORT, AUBERGE RESORTS COLLECTION

Speaking of greater heights, Primland in the Blue Ridge Mountains raises the bar. Surrounded by pristine, age-old forests, it’s a back-to-nature getaway with a luxurious twist. Being enveloped in 12,000 acres of the outdoors is just a start to wellness. Golf here, too, is among the best in the US, with some of the resort’s cottages positioned on the fairways (we like the log cabins and treehouses on the property, too!). Fair, indeed, as once the sun sets, all eyes look to the sky. The Observatory features state-of-the-art telescopes, and takes advantage of the area’s clear, dark nights.

WADE INTO UNCHARTED WATERS

AND JOIN AN OYSTER FARMER IN CHESAPEAKE BAY FOR THE ULTIMATE FOOD AND WELLNESS EXPERIENCE

If you’ve yet to experience “merroir” (think terroir, but of the sea), this is the place to do it. And, because there are eight regions across the waters where oysters thrive, practicing the art of merroir is easy. These are nature’s superfood on the half shell, loaded with zinc and omega-3 fatty acids, not to mention these pearly delights also possess anti-inflammatory properties. At Lynnhaven River, a tributary of Chesapeake Bay, oyster farmers at Pleasure House Oysters will put you to work, sustainably harvesting the sweet, briny treats, which can be shucked and enjoyed straight from the salty shallows.

CHANNEL YOUR INNER SINATRA

AT THE CAVALIER HOTEL AND BEACH CLUB, WITH ITS ON-SITE DISTILLERY

This historic resort is for those who love a throwback to those swinging Rat-Pack days. Frank Sinatra and Ella Fitzgerald performed there; Elizabeth Taylor and Muhammad Ali have stayed, as have 10 US presidents, since it opened its doors in 1927. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, a recent multi-million dollar renovation has restored the resort with a nod to its glamorous past. Spend sunny days seaside at the Beach Club, but when Happy Hour beckons, order a cocktail at The Hunt Room where, like the secret speakeasy scene of a century ago, Tarnished Truth Distilling Co., serves up its craft bourbon, rye whiskey, gin and vodka. Can’t decide? Take a seat in the tasting room, or a tour of the distillery. Tell them we sent you, and they just may break out the moonshine.

TAKE TO THE OPEN ROAD

CRUISE THE BACK OF THE DRAGON, ONE OF THE BEST DRIVES IN THE US FOR MOTORCYCLE ENTHUSIASTS

At an elevation of 3,500 feet, the Back of the Dragon delivers a natural mountain high. Add to that 32 miles filled with thrilling curves and serene stretches, plenty of pit-stops for local food and drink, and a community of bikers from all over the planet, and this is one helluva ride. But you don’t have to only be on your bike to enjoy it – automobile lovers get behind the wheel and feel just as much joy on this scenic drive also known as Route 16. Other iconic roadways include the Skyline Drive, which runs more than 100 miles along the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains in Shenandoah National Park, or stretch your legs on the many hiking trails along the way.

STRETCH YOUR SEASON GOLF AND GREEN SPACES ALMOST ALL YEAR ROUND

If taking in stunning views while teeing off is your idea of a good golf time, the mountain courses in Virginia are second to none. Take your game to greater heights at Wintergreen Resort’s Devils Knob or Stoney Creek for a truly elevated experience. Hit the fairways in Williamsburg, considered by the pros at Golf Digest as one of the world’s best golf destinations, and play on courses designed by legends Pete Dye, Arnold Palmer, Tom Clark and Curtis Strange, or work on your birdies and eagles at one of 220 public golf courses.

FOLLOW THE CROOKED ROAD

AND DISCOVER BRISTOL, THE BIRTHPLACE OF COUNTRY MUSIC

Head out and explore Virginia’s Heritage Music Trail – a nearly 300-mile meander through southwest Virginia, and some of its most charming towns. This is where The Carter Family, including the inimitable country legend June Carter Cash (the greater woman behind the great man Johnny Cash), were instrumental in the music style’s beginnings. Tunes can be heard throughout this part of the state, from Blue Ridge Highlands to Appalachia; it’s the tie that binds this community, from Friday night jamborees to outdoor festivals. Guitar- and fiddle-making are elevated artforms here; rock star Eric Clapton waited several years for a Wayne Henderson original; the maker was also an award-winning guitar picker.

Ready for more love?

Go to virginia.org/canada

THE INSTANT ESCAPISM FIX. FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE TO TRAVEL

The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

Photo: Phillip Glickman

SUMMER IN

EUROPE

FROM THE ENGLISH COUNTRYSIDE TO THE VINEYARDS OF CHAMPAGNE TO THE ALPS OF SWITZERLAND, ALLOW US TO PRESENT A BOLD TRAVELLER VIEW OF WHERE TO GO NEXT.

SOUTHERN

SISTERS

In Spain and Portugal, two small cities stand out for their heritage, culture and cuisine.

BY DARCY RHYNO

ÉVORA, PORTUGAL

SIPPING A GLASS of local red wine, I look around the walled courtyard of my historic guesthouse and spot the tree just beyond the pool. When I checked in, the friendly, third generation owners of the 18th century Casa do Escritor (Home of the Writer) invited me to help myself to an orange from the tree. It’s a warm January day in the southern Portuguese town of Évora – temperatures are in the mid-teens this week – and the ripe fruit hangs heavy on the branches. I pick one, peel it and bite into the juicy flesh. It tastes of sunshine.

This is my favourite time of year to visit the southern regions of the Iberian Peninsula. Évora lies 140 kilometres south of Lisbon. Sevilla is 530 kilometres south of Madrid, Spain. The peninsula is known for having the warmest winters in all of Europe. Évora is more like a large town and Sevilla a small city, but they have a lot in common beyond the mild climate – each has a rich cultural heritage, beautiful architecture and unique culinary personalities.

I have a particular fondness for Évora. It’s a cultural gem. The European Union recently named it the European Capital of Culture for 2027. Leaving my sunny spot at the guesthouse, I set out to explore. The history of this partially walled, easily walkable capital of the Alentejo region and a UNESCO World Heritage Site runs millennia deep. Founded by Celts, then ruled by Romans starting in 57 BC, Évora reveals itself in layers. Near the centre of town, I linger in the Roman temple of Diana. In 715, the Moors conquered Évora and stayed until the Portuguese took over in 1165. I tour the cathedral built a century later, then follow the eight kilometre, 500-year-old Prata Aqueduct to the edge of town where houses and shops are built between some of the arches.

As evening falls, I duck into a typical Alentejo restaurant. No reservations are required. No menu is offered. Mom might be in the kitchen, preparing the evening feast. Dad might be the sommelier, pouring a red, blended at a local winery just for him. I’m served a hearty meal starring slow-cooked porco preto, a regional pork dish distinctively flavoured by the animal’s diet of acorns from the Alentejo’s famous cork tree forests.

The next morning, I spend my last hours in Évora at the Home of the Writer. In the courtyard, I peel another orange, close my eyes and turn my face to the warming winter sun, savouring the flavours of summer. casadoescritorevora.com

The Temple of Diana, an ancient reminder of Roman times

Photograph: Pierre-Olivier

SEVILLA, SPAIN

LEANING OVER the railing atop La Giralda – the bell tower of Seville Cathedral and the city’s signature landmark – I peer down upon the church’s sprawling rooftop and supporting buttresses. This is Spain’s largest cathedral and the world’s third largest. Cloistered within its sanctuary walls grows a quiet garden of orange trees heavy with fruit. Beyond the cathedral spreads four square kilometres of winding, cobbled streets. Seville is known as the Pearl of Andalusia, Spain’s southern region for which Seville serves as capital. The streets are a labyrinth of historic buildings, plazas and smaller churches, among them three UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the cathedral itself.

Seville’s walkable streets – many are pedestrian only – wend through neighbourhoods past tapas bars, quiet parks, busy markets, public squares and Christian sanctuaries. Tourists view the elegant architecture from horse-drawn carriages, double-decker tour buses, rental bikes and electric scooters.

The city’s Moorish and Arabian beginnings are stamped on many of its most important structures. The cathedral itself is a converted 12th century mosque and the Giraldi bell tower I’m standing in was originally a minaret. The Alcazar Palace next to the cathedral is a Christian site built on a Muslim residential fortress, astonishingly beautiful for the intricacy of its Moorish carved stone and glazed tile decor.

From the top of the tower, I snap a few more pics and descend its 35 levels back down to the street. The view from the tower is grand indeed, but walking Seville’s streets among the cafes, bars, shops and shoppers with the aroma of espresso and spicy paella filling the air, is the best way to get to know the Pearl of Andalusia. spain.info/en/

Flamenco dancers performing in Plaza España

Golden tower (Torre del Oro) is a 36-meter-high tower built by the Almohads in the 12th century and was part of the Moorish city wall

Old picturesque passageway in the medieval Jewish Quarter

Baths of Dona Maria Padilla at the Royal Alcazar

Plaza España with view of Cathedral

View of Metropol Parasol, the largest wooden structure in the world, in La Encarnacion square

Photographs: JP Files, Humphrey Muleba, Despina Galani, Tânia Mousinho, Clement Duguerre, Stéphan Valentin

In this small Swiss town, wellness, wine and world-class cuisine take centre stage.

BY BIANCA BUJAN

The Good of Bad Ragaz S

WITZERLAND STUNS as a landlocked locale lauded for its awe-inspiring Alps and decadent indulgences, but beyond the ski culture, chocolates and cheese is a smattering of small towns and villages to discover, each offering their own distinct charm.

Found a mere hour and a half by train from Zurich is the serene Swiss spa town of Bad Ragaz (Bad being German for “bath”). Well known to Europeans as a sanctuary for its historic and therapeutic thermal waters, the secret spot is less known to visitors from

abroad. The thermal springs of the nearby Tamina Gorge have been a source of wellness for centuries, as the mineral composition and temperature of the water (36.5°C) are proven to have powerful healing properties.

The springs flow into Bad Ragaz, where Europe’s first-ever indoor thermal water pool was built in 1872. The site is now home to Tamina Therme, the most abundant aquatic spa in Europe today, offering more than 8,000 square metres of thermal baths, plus several saunas and spa treatments, resulting in an allaround wellness wonderland.

Bad Ragaz is also found within a surprisingly

successful wine region. It’s minutes from Maenfeld, home to Europe’s oldest winery, Schloss Salenegg, which dates back to 1068. The German-speaking Swiss region produces prize-winning Pinot Noirs from the vineyards of Maienfeld, the main city in the Bündner Herrschaft and the largest and best-known wine-growing region in Canton Graubunden.

And as the perfect culinary complement to the wondrous wine scene, Bad Ragaz has a phenomenal food scene, too. The city has been deemed “the culinary capital of Europe” for its diverse and distinguished dining options. Most notably, you’ll find three Michelin-star

Photographs: Courtesy of Grand Resort Bad Ragaz

Aerial view of Grand Resort Bad Ragaz

The Opulent lobby

Signature dish: cucumber from the garden with buttermilk and mustard

designated restaurants under one roof. Housed in Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, a trifecta of gastronomic gems awaits.

With Executive Chef Sven Wassmer at the helm, Memories restaurant recently received three Michelin Stars and a Green Star, recognized for its culinary celebration of the alpine region in all dimensions. Ingredients are sourced locally and presented perfectly on the plate, like Saibling fish (a specialty) sourced from nearby Val Lumnezia served with burnt cream and fir tree. For dessert, an iced bowl of fresh, farm-sourced blackberry sorbet doused in a house made, barrel-aged Negroni excites the taste buds.

IGNIV – the Romansh word meaning “nest” – is one of three locations based on the concept by Andrea Caminada. Two Michelin stars have been awarded here, recognizing the stunning small-dish sharing experience that takes the meaning of the word “nest” literally, with bite-sized morsels meant for sharing and dishes like the egg royal and vegetable tartlets garnished in greens to mimic the comfort and communal sharing that comes with “nesting” with family or friends.

Verve by Sven rounds out the trifecta, awarded one Michelin star both for its sophisticated dishes and emphasis on sustainability and fair trade. More than 90 per cent of the produce used is sourced directly from the Swiss Alps. At the entrance, a glasswalled wine cellar stands poised to impress, showing off the substantial stock on offer. Brunch on a waffle and caviar with brown butter egg yolk cream while sipping on a mimosa before heading for a soak at the Tamina Therme – which happens to be right next door. resortragaz.ch/en

Thamina thermal spa

Verve by Sven Restaurant interior

Pool exterior with view of the mountains

SECRET

English Country

History, intrigue, royalty. With 10 centuries of history, this UK hotel has it all. Kim Pemberton checks in.

Coombe Abbey house

Formal garden overlooking the lake

Afternoon tea sampler platter

Photographs: Courtesy of Coombe Abbey

AFTER PASSING a long, treelined driveway, over a water moat and through a heavy, arched wooden medieval door, I’m not surprised to learn Coombe Abbey, in England’s Warwickshire countryside, is marketed as “no ordinary hotel.”

After all, the Abbey is filled with 10 centuries of history, beginning as a monastery for Cistercian monks in 1150. Thirty years later, both the stone-built cloisters, which still exist today, and the 650 acres of woodlands surrounding it were surrendered to King Henry VIII during the dissolution of the monasteries in Tudor times.

Coombe Abbey later became the home of Princess Elizabeth Stuart, the daughter of King James I, from 1603 to 1608, and played a significant role in England’s tumultuous royal

past involving Guy Fawkes.

His ill-fated Gunpowder and Treason Plot in 1605, to blow up Parliament and assassinate King James I (a plot still celebrated in the United Kingdom every November 5 with bonfires and fireworks) included sending armed gunman to Coombe Abbey to kidnap the King’s nine-year-old daughter, and put her on the throne as a puppet queen. Luckily for the princess, her guardian Lord John Harrington got wind of the rebellion and was able to hastily spirit the princess away to safety in nearby Coventry.

These days the rich history of Coombe Abbey, a hotel since 1995, comes alive for guests who will find quirky details from days of yore at every turn, from the stone sarcophagus in a lower level passageway and the carved oak confessional boxes in the lobby, to four poster beds draped in sumptuous dark velvets in one of

the lavishly furnished grand bedchambers.

The Lady Craven room, named after Lady Elizabeth Craven, whose family owned the Abbey for more than 300 years, oozes elegance and has expansive views of the manicured formal garden and parkland beyond.

While the feature rooms are indeed special, all of the hotel’s 121 suites have their own unique style, with opulent bedding and interesting historical artefacts on display. My suite had original oil paintings, heavy velvet curtains held back by brass rings, a private garden patio and even an old-fashioned chain pull for the toilet and a brass “towel maid” holder.

There’s so much to see throughout the hotel it’s a destination unto itself, but nature lovers will also appreciate its fairy-tale setting. The original grounds of Coombe Abbey are now a country park, run by Coventry City Council, with numerous walking trails, a serpentine lake where swans and herons can be seen and, for the truly adventurous, a rope course and zip line. coombeabbey.com

Princess Elizabeth Stuart, the daughter of King James I

Traditional Sunday roast

Dining room interior

Champagne Dreams

Dreams

On a quick trip from Paris to the French countryside, Loren Christie experiences a lunch like no other.

THE

ISN’T MY birthday or New Year’s Eve. It’s just a Friday in December but as the door opens I am immediately greeted with a glass of bubbles. The bubbles in hand? A glass of Perrier-Jouët’s 2017 Blanc de Blancs, a tribute to Chardonnay, the signature grape variety of this iconic French champagne house; elegant, dry and floral.

And that door? Since 1811, the cellar masters of Perrier-Jouët have fiercely guarded its privacy, opening it only to welcome VIPs rumoured to range from Queen Victoria to Victoria Beckham. After Epernay and its surrounding vineyards were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015, demand from the general public began to build. So, in June of 2021, the legendary champagne producer started welcoming a limited number of visitors to the original home of their owners, the Maison Belle Époque, situated at a prime address across the street from Moët & Chandon in Epernay's fabled Avenue de Champagne. Only for lunch. Limited to no more than 12 people. Twice a week; Fridays and Saturdays only.

With champagne in hand, the lunch, which is more accurately billed as a gastronomic experience, begins with a small tour of the ground floor’s salons, dining room and bar. As it turns out, the Maison Belle Époque is a showcase of one of the largest collections of Art Nouveau in France; original pieces by Rodin and Toulouse-Lautrec are complemented by ornate pieces of furniture by Henri Guimard, best known for designing the iconic entrances to the Paris Metro.

The Art Nouveau movement, popular from 1890-1910, produced elegant art and design that was inspired by the organic natural forms of the stems and blossoms of flowers and plants. In fact, the signature wreath of Japanese

anemone flowers that adorn the bottles of Perrier-Jouët’s champagnes were designed by Art Nouveau pioneer Emile Galle in 1902 for the brand’s “Belle Époque” prestige cuvée.

This connection to Art Nouveau and nature is woven into the DNA of the Perrier-Jouët brand. The 5-course “Banquet of Nature” luncheon, inspired by renowned French chef Pierre Gagnaire, and created and realized by his protegée, Executive Chef Sébastien Morellon,

were combined to awaken our taste buds, and a veal blanquette, which, when paired with the Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque 2013, mimicked the flowering of the vines on my tongue. Each course created to compliment the accompanying champagne.

Our host is Sébastian Lebon. His title is brand ambassador, but he could easily have added sommelier and art historian to his credentials and no one would have batted an eye. In between courses, he guides you on a sensory experience further connecting the elements of nature to the tasting experience. Before the first course, we are presented with pieces of chalk and bottles of scents; cornflower, jasmine and violet. He instructs us to drop the scents on the pieces of chalk. “Smell the florals and the minerality of the chalk,” he says in perfect English, with a heavy French accent. “It will enhance the taste of the champagne.”

After the second course, he invites us to explore the textures of the champagne when we are presented with a selection of flowers in small vases. The Angel’s Wing is velvety and rich to touch. The orchid is delicate, dense and satiny. We are asked to compare the sensations of touch to the texture on our tongues.

The experience ends with Turkish delight combined with vanilla, marshmallow and a liquorice panna cotta, created to match the House’s Belle Époque Rosé 2010. So unusual and so delicious.

was designed to pair with the cellar master’s champagnes.

The opposite of how a drink and wine pairing typically works, our menu matches the stages of growth in the surrounding vineyards, from seed to maturity highlighting the various floral notes and the unique chalk-based soil for which the Champagne region is renowned.

The dishes are art in themselves: Scallop Pascaline with a nettle sauce, which created the taste of chalkiness in my mouth, poached sea bass in a sea urchin bisque, flavours that

Despite being a regular Friday, the experience feels like a celebration. A celebration of art, nature and gastronomy. “Every occasion is special for us,” says Lebon. “There is always a bottle ready to be opened.”

Epernay is a one hour and 20-minute train ride from Paris’s Gare de L’Est. The Maison Belle Époque on the Avenue de Champagne is an easy five-minute walk from the train station. Lunches are available on Fridays and Saturdays and by advance reservation only. Call +33 (0)6 74 27 05 88 for details or contact them on Instagram @belleepoquesociety for more information on the Perrier-Jouët ecosystem.

CELLAR MASTERS OF PERRIER-JOUËT HAVE FIERCELY GUARDED ITS PRIVACY, OPENING IT ONLY TO WELCOME VIPS RUMOURED TO RANGE FROM QUEEN VICTORIA TO VICTORIA BECKHAM

Executive Chef Sébastien Morellon

EXPERT PICKS

MADEIRA, PORTUGAL

PORTUGAL HAS BEEN on many travellers' radars for the last few years. To elevate your experience, hop on a budget-friendly flight from Lisbon on TAP Portugal or RyanAir, starting from $68 and arrive in an entirely different climate on Madeira. Just under two hours by plane, the archipelago of four islands in the North Atlantic is about 500 kilometres off the coast of Morocco. The capital, Funchal, is on the main island and feels like a carefully urban-planned community with its consistent terracotta-shingle roof tops. Along the way, you will see cables for zip line excursions across gulleys that make you feel like you are in Hawai'i or St. Lucia. The subtropical climate makes this a great escape for spring or fall. Madeira is not only home to the famous wine that shares its name, but also the volcanic, rich soils of the island are perfect for cultivating an amazing array of fruits and vegetables, many of which originated from all across the globe. They produce a small banana you cannot purchase outside of the country and more than 10 different varieties of passionfruit!

DON’T MISS:

Make sure you take a ride on the Monte Toboggan ride, which is a wicker basket on wooden runners. The first rides date back to 1850 as a standard form of transportation for the wealthy residents up on the hilltop. Take a day to golf with ocean views 500 metres above sea level at the 18-hole Palheiro Golf Course.

Try a glass of Poncha, the national drink, which is made with aguardente de cana, honey, sugar, and either orange juice or lemon juice. Ask for passionfruit juice for a great variation!

THE BEST TIME TO VISIT: If you can go during New Years Eve, plan ahead because Madeira is known for its extremely vibrant fireworks sequences. It is one of Europe's best NYE events.

ISLAND LIFE

Even our well-travelled editors need a second opinion when it comes to where to go in Europe. Vivian Vassos asked Shalene Dudley, a top Canadian advisor, to tell us where she’s booking next. Her advice? Get off the mainland and head to one of these lesser-travelled isles.

MALLORCA, SPAIN

HOW MANY GOLF courses can you fit on a Mediterranean island? Well, for Mallorca, the answer is 20. Golf lovers: Look out for the yearly Mallorca Golf Open sponsored by Rolex, BMW and Emirates, to name a few. This year, the event takes place in October. This island destination is one of Spain’s Balearic islands and has everything from pristine beach resorts, topclass golf and nightlife to castles and cathedrals. It is easy to get to Mallorca from most major airports in Europe but the most common is from Barcelona or Madrid. Multiple options are available starting from $25 with airlines like RyanAir and Vueling. It is a quick 50 minute flight. Visit stone-built villages and hop over to music festivals and art shows. Take a catamaran from the north coast and have lunch with a view or rent from a wide variety of super yachts by the day or the week.

DON’T MISS:

Vineyard tours come in all forms! Private tours with dinner in the vineyard, helicopter wine tours, sunset boat tours with a sommelier, an old town wine tour in Palma, or take the Wine Train! This destination has a diverse array of activities for any budget.

Try the national drink, Palo de Mallorca. It is made from a famous Mallorcan liqueur called “Palo,” made from carob pods, ginseng and caramel. This is a strong one, ranging from 25 % alcohol and up!

THE BEST TIME TO VISIT: March through May, for less crowds and average temperatures from 15 to mid 20s celsius range. For hot, beach and sailing vacations, visit in June and July.

Shalene A. Dudley is the lead travel concierge at Latitude Concierge Travels, Ltd., in Burlington, On., and a member of The 1000 Club, a first-of-itskind global community created to recognize the individual travel advisor for their achievements in sales. You can reach Shalene at (416) 799-4364, toll-free at (833) 9332929, shalene@latitudeconciergetravels.com; latitudeconciergetravels.com; the1000.club

MADRID’S MAGNETISM

For art, history, culture and unforgettable tapas, no Spanish city can beat Madrid, reports Doug O’Neill

BOLD DECODER

WHEN TO GO STAY EAT DRINK SEE AND DO

From top left: Santo Domingo Terrace in the background the dome of the Almudena Cathedral; the iconic Metropolis building dome; sculpture Menina "Wonder Woman 1984"; The Arch and coffee shops at Plaza Mayor; sculpture Menina "The Tattooed Infanta"

Photographs: Agustín Martínez. César Lucas Abreu. Álvaro López for © Madrid Destino

BEST TIME TO GO

MADRID IS A CITY that literally sizzles during the summer with temperatures that can soar above 35° C. It’s worth it to brave the heat for Madrid’s take on Pride, which starts each year in late June and runs through early July. What used to be a small celebration in the late 1970s has since grown into one of the largest celebrations of LGBTQ pride in Europe.

For better weather, lighter crowds, and affordable prices, try visiting during the spring or fall when temperatures are more pleasant. The days are sunny, and you’ll be able to enjoy events like Apertura Madrid, held each year in the fall. For several days in mid-September, some of the best galleries and museums in town inaugurate their new exhibitions during the Apertura Madrid Gallery Weekend. The best part: All events are free.

During its short but powerful annual run, the event transforms the city into the temporary modern art capital of the world. Attracting international art collectors, dealers and fans, Apertura Madrid is one of the most important gallery weekends in the world, second only to its counterpart in Berlin in number of visitors.

STAY

FROM HERITAGE to homey, Madrid’s finest hotels offer overnight stays for every stripe of traveller—and lobby bars you won’t find anywhere else.

THE MIDDLE OF CHIC SALAMANCA

The five-star Heritage Madrid Hotel is a Relais & Chateaux gem in the tony Salamanca neighbourhood. Stunning visual elements abound throughout: exquisite hand-painted silk panels, antique vases, marble tables and a smattering of 18th- and 19th-century art works. heritagemadridhotel.com

ALL DOWNWARD FROM HERE

The rooftop bar atop ME Madrid Reina Victoria offers the best panoramic nighttime views of the city. The avant-garde hotel is perfectly located (for culture buffs, especially) in the historic Plaza de Santa Ana quarter. Onsite charging stations for electric cars are a welcome touch. melia.com

BUY THE BOOK

Guests swoon over the book-lined walls of the elevators at Only YOU Boutique Hotel. They’re indicative of the innovative touches by acclaimed designer Lázaro Rosa-Violán, who won multiple awards for his décor achievements in the popular boutique property. onlyyouhotels.com

LOITER IN THE LOBBY

Guests at the 48-room Art Deco-styled Gran Hotel Inglés can’t be blamed for not wanting to leave the property. The hotel’s chandeliered cocktail bar, LobByto, seduces visitors with its whimsical touches of old writing desks, antique typewriters and, of course, topnotch martinis. granhotelingles.com

EAT

LOCAL CHEFS have discovered the joys of fusing Asian influences into traditional Spanish dishes. Curried pork cheeks, anyone?

CHEEKY IN THE KITCHEN

The chefs at upscale Ana La Santa Restaurant, in the ME Madrid Reina Hotel, combine Spanish, South American and Asian influences in their menus. Expect traditional dishes like carrillada (pork cheeks) to be elevated with a slashing of red curry sauce. A definite cosmopolitan vibe to this upmarket eatery. melia.com

COMFORT FOOD, MADRID-STYLE

Lineups start as early as 10am at Maricastaña resto-bar, where first timers are advised to choose the menú del día: three-course, fixedprice lunchtime menu for around $15. The place is also jam-packed during Sunday brunch, lured no doubt by the signature nachos with guacamole and black beans, and fried green tomatoes. It’s located in trendy Malasaña. maricastanamadrid.com

From far left: ME Madrid Reina Victoria rooftop; “Purple Causa” a traditional Peruvian potato dish served as a salad; Jalisco mule cocktail served in a traditional skull from Ginkgo Sky Bar; “Tablao Flamenco” wall artwork from Flamenco Villa Rosa; Seafood stand “El Señor Martín” at Mercado San Miguel; A tasty “Jamón Serrano” plate

Photographs: ME Madrid Reina Victoria, Ginkgo Restaurant & Sky Bar, Flamenco Villa Rosa, Mercado San Miguel.

IN NEED OF A CHURRO FIX

Don’t leave Madrid without sampling traditional churros con chocolate. Best bet: Chocolatería de San Ginés, founded in 1894, is open 24/7. chocolateriasangines.com

FOR FOOTLOOSE FOODIES

Some of Spain’s finest flamenco dancers have graced the floors of Flamenco Villa Rosa, a popular restaurant that has been serving tapas and main courses since 1911. Just off Plaza de Santa Ana. tablaoflamenco1911.com

NOT YOUR RUN-OF-THEMENU PAD THAI

The Michelin-starred Krachai Thai Restaurant, in Madrid’s smallest neighbourhood of Las Salesas, has been scooping up culinary awards for years. If you’ve had Iberian ham or pork three nights running, reserve a table at Krachai. krachai.es

DRINK

ENJOY A LATE, late dinner or grab a pre-party nap. Whatever you do, just don’t hit the bars and nightclubs until 1am or 2am. Pubs are a different matter.

HEMINGWAY DRANK HERE

Ernest Hemingway was a regular at Cervecería Alemana in the 1950s. The wood-panelled establishment, which occupies a prized spot on the southern edge of Plaza de Santa Ana, is staffed by white-shirted waiters. cerveceriaalemana.com

WASABI IN YOUR NIGHT

The Ginkgo Restaurant & Sky Bar commands excellent views from the 12th floor of VP Plaza España Design 5. End your evening with an Asian-inspired nightcap with a kick. Mixologists have a thing for mixing tequila with fruit and anything hot. ginkgoskybarmadrid.com

BREWED ON THE PREMISES

The craft beer movement arrived in Madrid when Fábrica Maravillas installed their vats and started pouring several years ago. If you only drink one pint, opt for the Malasaña IPA, named after the local neighbourhood. fmaravillas.com

NOSH WHILE YOU WALK

Slices of Iberian ham. Cheeses from the Basque country. Rioja wines from Navarre. Mercado San Miguel first opened as a wholesale food market 100 years ago. Today, visitors converge on the 30-plus food stands for mouth-watering tapas and pub grub. Tip: Avoid sitting in traffic jams with the taxi metre ticking away. Just hop the metro and get off at Metro Sol. mercadodesanmiguel.es

A BOOK FOR EVERY BEVERAGE

El Padrino, located inside Only YOU Boutique Hotel, is a bar-bookshop combo. The much-revered Padrino bookshop once occupied part of the main floor of this aristocratic building. Tapas include Iberian hams and strong cheeses. Frequent literary readings, poetry nights. onlyyouhotels.com

Photograph: César Lucas Abreu © Madrid Destino

SEE + DO

SIESTAS ARE STILL a thing in this town, but don’t be fooled: Madrid is action-packed all day long

THE ART OF FREE SIGHTSEEING

Can anyone really absorb the works of Goya, Velazquez, Murillo and El Greco all in one visit? Museo Del Prado is Spain’s national art museum and is absolutely packed with art. Insider’s tip: see what you can on your first visit and then return on a weeknight between 6pm and 8pm when admission is free. museodelprado.com

WHEN THE SUN GOES DOWN

As sunset arrives, make haste for Cuartel de la Montaña Park, where you’ll find The Temple of Debod (Temple of Blood) draped in a golden light. The Egyptian temple was erected outside Aswan, Egypt, in the 2nd century, then dismantled and reassembled in Madrid in the 1970s. madrid.es

THE STREET THAT NEVER SLEEPS

Gran Via (which means “Great Way”) is excellent for shopping. The 1.3-kilometre street is sometimes called “Spanish Broadway,” a nod to the concentration of hotels, theatre, upscale stores and shopping centres. It’s Madrid’s “street that never sleeps.” Expect lots of Lacoste and Zara.

ART THAT SPEAKS TO THE MASSES

Museo Thyssen has lots of Picasso and Kandinsky amongst its collection of 1,000 paintings, which run the gamut from abstract and modernist to impressionists and religious iconography. A cool innovation: instead of exhibit-by-exhibit audio guides, museum curators have produced themed audio tours with subjects such as Sustainability, Fashion and Inclusive Love. museothyssen.org

A beautiful sunset as madrileños walk in front of The Royal Palace of Madrid

POSTCARD FROM

CLAYOQUOT WILDERNESS LODGE, VANCOUVER ISLAND

NO ONE EPITOMIZES luxury and comfort better than Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge, 18 nautical miles from Tofino, on Vancouver Island, adjacent to an estuary. This eco-tourism retreat, owned by Baillie Lodges, which operates a string of luxury wilderness lodges in Australia and New Zealand pulled out all the stops to ensure their first Canadian venture is a success. After buying the 242-hectare property in 2019, the company spent millions updating the main buildings and accommodations, consisting of luxury safari tents, with streamlined contemporary furnishings. The lodge, located in the Clayoquot Sound Biosphere Reserve, provides off-the-grid adventures like whale watching, horse-back riding and kayaking, to name just a few of the activities that keep guests busy during the day, before they return to indulge in what the lodge does best – fine dining. —Kim

Pemberton clayoquotwildernesslodge.com

Post your best pictures on Instagram using #boldpicks and tag #iamaboldtraveller for the chance to be featured on this page in a future issue.

Photo: Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge