BQ Plus April-May 2016 by BQ Magazine

BQ Magazine Supplement Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition 2016

P L U S

Volume 1: Issue 1

April 2016

Best-ever’ DJWE opening ushered in five days of luxury

Gulf Pearls take centre stage at DJWE 2016

Exhibition revived history of the region’s treasures

International cultural heritage abounds

Exhibitors took pride in pieces steeped in meaning

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Record-breaking number of brands dazzled Doha’s VIPs and visiting crowds

CONTENTS

PLUS DOHA JEWELLERY AND WATCHES EXHIBITION 2016 PUBLISHER: GULF STAR GROUP CHAIRMAN MOHAMMED MANSOUR RASHID AL KHATER

CONTENTS APRIL 2016, ISSUE 1

1. ‘BEST-EVER’ DJWE OPENING USHERED IN FIVE DAYS OF LUXURY 6

MANAGING DIRECTOR P.K ABDULLA

5. JEWELLERY BOX

6. THE MIDAS TOUCH

FROM DAZZLING PEARLS, SPARKLING DIAMONDS, PRECIOUS STONES AND AUTHENTIC GOLD, AMIRI GEMS BRINGS YOU ALL THINGS BRIGHT AND BEAUTIFUL

BUSINESS DIRECTOR NAVEED ABDULLA OPERATIONS DIRECTOR NISHAD ABDULLA

RECORD-BREAKING NUMBER OF BRANDS DAZZLED DOHA’S VIPS AND VISITING CROWDS

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF PRIYA D’SOUZA

2. THE MAGNIFICENCE OF DJWE 2016 8

MANAGING EDITOR TINA SNOJ

DIGITAL EXECUTIVE FERRAS MOHSSEN SALES & MARKETING MANAGER BOSCO MENEZES

7. GRACE AND ELEGANCE

8. ALL THAT GLITTERS

EXQUISITE MONTBLANC PIECES MADE A DAZZLING REGIONAL DEBUT AT DJWE 2016

SENIOR CORRESPONDENTS STASA SALACANIN RABIN GUPTA STAFF CORRESPONDENTS KHADIZA BEGUM DADA ZECIC PIVAC

AMIRI GEMS IS DEFINED BY A RANGE OF EXQUISITELY-DESIGNED JEWELLERY

LEADING BRANDS, NEWEST EXQUISITE COLLECTIONS, DISTINCTIVE DESIGN AND A TRULY ENCHANTING EXPERIENCE!

3. GULF PEARLS TAKE CENTRE STAGE AT DJWE 2016 12

FIFTY ONE EAST DAZZLES AT THE 2016 DOHA JEWELLERY AND WATCHES EXHIBITION WITH FINE JEWELLERY AND TIMEPIECES

9. STANDING THE TEST OF TIME 28 GIANTTO AND ROGER DUBUIS MASTERPIECES CAPTURED THE IMAGINATION AT DOHA EXHIBITION

SALES & DISTRIBUTION HAMZA AHMAD SHANEEF P.P STAR HOSPITALITY

10. IT’S ALL IN THE DETAILS

GENERAL QUERIES BARBARA MOGRO REACHUS@BQDOHA.COM T: +974 4491 3761 F: +974 4491 3778

11. UNCOMPROMISING STYLE AND QUALITY 31

PRINTERS AL JAZEERA PRINTING PRESS PUBLISHED BY GULF STAR GROUP PO BOX 19177, DOHA, QATAR T: +974 4491 3761 F: +974 4491 3778 WWW.BQ-MAGAZINE .COM BQ Plus

SUZANNE KALAN AND MARIA JOAO CONTINUE TO CREATE STUNNING COLLECTIONS THAT ARE BOTH INNOVATIVE AND UNIQUE

EXHIBITION REVIVED HISTORY OF REGION’S TREASURES

4. INTERNATIONAL CULTURAL HERITAGE ABOUNDED AT DJWE 2016

EXHIBITORS TOOK PRIDE IN PIECES STEEPED IN MEANING

WHILE THE BAMFORD WATCH DEPARTMENT IS SYNONYMOUS WITH UNCOMPROMISING STYLE AND QUALITY, EXCEPTIONAL CRAFTSMENSHIP IS WOVEN THROUGH GRAFF’S RICH HERITAGE

12. PREVIEW

OF PAST AND UPCOMING EXHIBITIONS IN THE JEWELLERY AND WATCHES INDUSTRY

COVER: A SIGNATURE PIECE FROM JAIPUR-BASED JEWELLERS AMRAPALI

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DJWE OPENING

‘BEST-EVER’ DJWE OPENING USHERED IN FIVE DAYS OF LUXURY Record-breaking number of brands dazzles Doha’s VIPs and visiting crowds

Under the patronage of H.E. the Prime Minister and Interior Minister, Sheikh Abdullah bin Nasser bin Khalifa Al-Thani, the thirteenth edition of Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition (DJWE) was opened to crowds on 22 February by H.E. the Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of State for Cabinet Affairs, Ahmed bin Abdullah Al Mahmoud at the new Doha Exhibition and Convention Center in West Bay, following a glittering VIP reception. Organized by Qatar Tourism Authority and delivered by Elan Group and Fira Barcelona, DJWE 2016 was the largest ever edition of the leading jewellery and watch exhibition. The hundreds who flocked into the glimmering interiors of West Bay’s new Doha Exhibition and Convention Center (DECC) seemed impressed by the

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brand-new displays, and keen to participate in

More than five hundred brands from twenty-seven countries were on display at the 2016 edition of the exhibition, offering greater variety and choice of high-quality products than in any previous year DJWE’s new activities and services. “It was a superb first day, and best ever visitor response,” said Ahmed Al-Mulla, chief operations

officer of Elan Entertainment soon after the opening. “Having worked hard to make this edition of DJWE stand out for highest quality, widest choice, and unparalleled visitor experience, we are delighted by its success.” More than five hundred brands from twenty-seven countries were on display at the 2016 edition of the exhibition, offering greater variety and choice of high-quality products than in any previous year to all visitors. The new DECC’s vast pillar-less floor area, superb lighting, central location and amenities provided over 29,000 sqm of exhibiting space, an increase of 16 percent on the 2015 edition. Renowned for luxury Each jewel exhibited at DJWE is evaluated for size, clarity and quality,

DJWE OPENING

and the exhibition standards allow entry to only the world’s most precious metals: platinum; palladium; pure and sterling silver; and white, yellow, and rose gold. With new, more stringent selection criteria in place, and an abundance of rare and one-off creations, DJWE 2016’s showcase for the world’s loveliest gems reaffirmed Doha’s eminence among locations renowned for luxury.

Each jewel exhibited at DJWE is evaluated for size, clarity and quality, and the exhibition standards allow entry to only the world’s most precious metals: platinum; palladium; pure and sterling silver; and white, yellow, and rose gold Visitors had a variety of new activities and services ornamenting DJWE 2016: on-the-spot gem certification through the International Gemological Institute’s mobile gem-testing lab; four information seminars providing details about process, choosing and maintenance of the astonishing creations on display; jewellery and horology workshops for enthusiasts and designers to see great craftsmanship at work; and special viewing areas for greater privacy while taking a closer look at individual pieces. The sparkling exhibition was made possible through the generous support and energy of its Official Sponsor, QNB, joined by a distinguished line-up of official partners – Qatar Airways, Hilton Doha, and MPP.

April 2016

DJWE INTERVIEWS

THE MAGNIFICENCE OF DJWE 2016 Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition (DJWE) is one of the most sparkling artisan events in the international jewellery calendar, showcasing the world’s most stunning creations and exclusive timepieces. This unique annual international event is held once a year in Doha, Qatar, and the 13th edition of the DJWE was staged 23 – 27 February 2016 at the new Doha Exhibition and Convention Centre (DECC). The DJWE focused upon the latest trends, attracting an ever growing number of visitors (approximately 30,000), to examine and enjoy the widest possible

ranges of fine quality jewellery and watches. It has also become an event of choice for many regional and international brands, helping the industry’s tradespeople showcase their newest exquisite collections in one of the fastest developing regions in not only the GCC, but in the world. Over 500 of these tradespeople joined the 2016 event, with a significantly increased number of new participants attending. BQ Plus asked some of international brand managers to share their thoughts about current developments in this exciting and exclusive industry.

Luxury Galore

Paris Gallery is a leading luxury retailer in the Middle East. BQ Plus speaks with Salman Abdul Rahim, general manager of Paris Gallery. Tell us about your brand. Our brands are elite, luxurious, fashionable and internationally famous. What kind of impact do you expect from Doha Jewellery & Watches exhibition, 2016? The event truly exceeded our expectations. Through DJWE 2016, people got to know our brands better, and it provided a superb platform for us to exhibit all our latest collections to our clientele. Many were launched exclusively for the first time at DJWE, prior to being presented to the international market, which meant that our esteemed customers in Doha saw them first!

worldwide, and by 2022 we will have the best, most elite, luxurious and updated store situated right here, in Doha.

What current trends are you witnessing in the jewellery and watches market? The market is particularly strong at the moment. As international financial conditions become increasingly unstable, clients look to invest in something that will hold its value over the long term. And, of course, people are always looking for something new and precious. Our customers are extremely well informed with regards to the latest fashions and trends, and those attending the DJWE in Qatar are always assured of staying one step ahead of everyone else by witnessing the hottest brands for themselves before the rest of the world.

Those attending the DJWE in Qatar are always assured of staying one step ahead of everyone else by witnessing the hottest brands for themselves before the rest of the world

What impact the FIFA 2020 World Cup have on luxury retailers such as yourselves? To be honest, we need to invest more in our market sector in Qatar. We must open up more department stores and provide better facilities for our valued customers. We have extremely solid credit and business relationships with our suppliers

What is your vision for the future of your brand? We need to continue to discover and market new concepts to regenerate our brand, to make it more relevant to the younger generation. To do this, we must utilize all the latest tools that will the younger generation engage with – particularly social media.

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DJWE INTERVIEWS

The TAG Heuer Effect

TAG Heuer is a Swiss manufacturing company, founded in 1860, designing and manufacturing and marketing highly exclusive, top quality watches and fashion accessories. BQ Plus catches up with Anneclaire Richomme, marketing manager of TAG Heuer at DJWE 2016 Tell us about your brand. Swiss based TAG Heuer has been an avant-garde, designer watchmaker since 1860. The brand has spanned and influenced the history of contemporary watchmaking, especially in the field of chronographs, and has an unequalled reputation for time accuracy. TAG Heuer communicates across four significant areas: Art, Lifestyle, Sport and Heritage. We have built upon and extended our active presence in the world of sport to create timing instruments and watches that are commonly regarded as the most accurate in the world. TAG Heuer is also the world leader in high precision luxury chronographs, which boast an unparalleled mechanical accuracy of 1/10th, 1/100th, 1/1000th and even 5/10,000th of a second. What kind of impact do you expect from exhibiting at DJWE? Because Qatar is one of our strongest markets in the Middle East, we decided to mount an exclusive international preview of the TAG Heuer Connected Watch at the DJWE. In the Middle East deliveries of that watch will soon begin, and we wanted to share its premiere with our guests and clients, granting them the privilege to experience it before anyone else in the GCC region. We recognize that DJWE is a vitally important platform in today’s timepiece sector, enabling key players within the industry and the market press, as well as watch lovers from all over the region, to gather and exchange experiences and view the latest up to the minute trends. Indeed, we see it as crucial for us to be present at this event, not just to establish company visibility, but to get a deeper understanding of the market in general. The outcome of the fair was very positive for TAG Heuer and we have achieved a strong momentum for the brand, particularly for the TAG Heuer Connected Watch. Unveiling it allowed us to show our most “Avant-Garde” product and demonstrate our dynamism not only to consumers but also the entire industry.

What trends are you seeing in the market related to watches? Contemporary consumers like innovative styling, as well as the solid reliability that Tag Heuer has always offered.

Because Qatar is one of our strongest markets in the Middle East, we decided to mount an exclusive international preview of the TAG Heuer Connected Watch at the DJWE What is your vision for the future of your brand? We are continually launching products to bring pleasure and satisfaction: the pleasure of owning a piece that is aesthetically beautiful, offering the highest precision quality, and the satisfaction of obtaining the best value for money our profession has to offer. We aim to allow our customer to enjoy a completely contemporary design for an unbeatable price in relation to the quality offered!

April 2016

In Contemporary Idiom Payal Mehta, the founder of Payal New York (launched in 2009), is an independent jewellery designer specializing in bespoke fine jewellery. Payal New York has recently introduced its first showroom in the Middle East. In an interview with BQ Plus, Mehta talks about her journey in this highly competitive industry.

Tell us about your work I love jewellery. I have been surrounded by jewellery my whole life. I want to make jewellery that seems effortless in its expression, particularly one piece that can be used to beautify everyday events such as lunch, a business meeting, or dinner. Pieces that are not overpowering, but can still dazzle and inspire every day. I always try to create pieces that are close to my own experience, because people love glamorous items that simultaneously feel good. What type of materials do you prefer to use? I love to use gold, white gold, and lots of diamonds. Sometimes I oxidize silver, and many other forms of precious material. How are lower gold prices affecting your business? I always adjust the gold price when I sell it. I do not see my creations as just commercial pieces; I see them as works of art. So I try not to focus on the gold, or the material used – my work is about so much more than that. And my price is pretty competitive. So current material prices don’t affect my business too much.

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DJWE INTERVIEWS

What trends are you seeing in jewellery production? At the moment, people seem to prefer one piece that they can treasure. I work a lot with younger girls, since they are the next generation of buyers, and this generation loves colour. To get a better idea about current trends I interviewed 25 younger girls in different countries all around the world, posing questions about their likings, style, preferable colours etc. It was interesting to learn that they love more fun colours in jewellery, such as orange and cocktail green!

Gulf clients adore jewellery in its own right – it is an integral part of their culture What kind of person wears your jewellery? I have a wide range of customers, from all kinds of nationalities, but one common factor is that they know what works best for them. What challenges are you currently experiencing? After moving to the UAE, I immediately noticed changes in cultural attitudes towards jewellery. For example, my clients in the USA prefer minimalist jewellery to suit their busy lifestyle, but Gulf clients adore jewellery in its own right – it is an integral part of their culture. So I don’t need to educate them in any way about the timeless value of jewellery – they already know that. What’s next? What’s your vision for the future of your brand? My vision is to give my customer the ultimate jewellery buying and owning experience. I don’t want them to come in my shops and just buy – I want to give them an unforgettable retail experience to accompany an unforgettable piece of jewellery.

DJWE INTERVIEWS

Leonori, Naturally

BQ Plus speaks to Elisabeth Boccalatte, the marketing manager of traditional Italian jewellery brand - Leonori. Tell us about your brand. Founded in 1962, Leonori Jewellery has become a leading international supplier of quality pieces over the last 50 years. Three generations of jewellers have been passionately creating brand Leonori, establishing an original and unmistakable style. Their product collections are still released as limited editions, and each stage is carried out by hand, from casting to polishing, in accordance with traditional skills that have been handed down from father to son.

The Doha exhibition provides us with an accurate overview of what jewellery clients really want, and how companies should move forward and adapt in relation to style and design What kind of impact do you expect from exhibiting at DJWE? We are extremely satisfied with the exhibition because we have seen first-hand how the Qatari people have fallen in love with our products. Our most valued strength is our direct relationship with our clients, based on a relationship of trust and reliability that has been carefully forged and maintained over many years. By exhibiting in Doha we have been able to realise, adapt to and meet the needs of our clients at first hand, a process which is highly important to us.

What trends are you seeing in the market related to jewellery? The Doha exhibition provides us with an accurate overview of what jewellery clients really want, and how companies should move forward and adapt in relation to style and design. From our experience here and in the broader international jewellery market, we can access new retail strategies, and explore and advertise the quality of stones that we use, and the craftsmanship of our brand. What is your vision for the future of your brand? We believe that true luxury is derived from excellent craftsmanship and rare creativity. In our opinion, our products, made by true artisans, are individual works of genius, and always illustrate the attention that we put into our work. Every one of our jewels signifies something sophisticated and eternal. We foresee a bright future, with billions of new consumers waiting for us to meet them. Which is why we need to continue to work to the highest standards to satisfy our clients discerning needs.

One thing is clear â&#x20AC;&#x201C; for all the jewellery and timepiece manufacturers and retailers that participated, the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition 2016 delivered a glittering event, beautifully designed and meticulously planned to help build business, profitability and grant a joyful experience for both visitors and exhibitors alike.

April 2016

GULF PEARLS

GULF PEARLS TAKE CENTRE STAGE AT DJWE 2016 Exhibition revives history of region’s treasures Natural Gulf pearls, the traditionally prized gems of the Arabian Peninsula, took pride of place at Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition (DJWE) 2016. This year’s representation ranged from the world’s largest single collection of loose natural pearls through heritage pearling demonstrations and new design techniques, and offers unrivalled opportunities to learn about the pearl-trading history of the region. The historical angle is of perennial interest, according to Mohamed Al Mahmood (of Al Mahmood Pearls, Bahrain, hosted at DJWE 2016 by Amiri Gems), who notes that several thousand pearl-diving boats used to ply the Gulf around Bahrain and Qatar, the area richest in oysterbeds in the region. “Local pearls have always enjoyed a special significance; the sweet-water springs of the Gulf near Bahrain give a special character, colour and lustre to our pearls,” said Al Mahmood. “You will find slightly different colours and characters in different places, even quite close to each other.” Following a long period of great decrease in diving and trading, Al Mahmood describes a new trend over the last five years, which suggests that interest in pearl-diving is returning. Rising prices for quality natural pearls are probably contributing to this new interest. A single good pearl may be BQ Plus

valued at QR 100,000 or more, and pearls become even more valuable again when they are well matched, graduated and strung as part of a set. It could be possible for a very high-quality necklace of large, excellent natural Gulf pearls to be worth as much as QR 30 million. Al Mahmood emphasised, however, that good pearl dealing has never been only about profit, because valuable expertise about pearls is founded on long experience and love of the subject.

impossible to replace true experience with technology.” At Alfardan Jewellery, Hussein Alfardan remains a pre-eminent world authority on Gulf pearls and a renowned collector respected for his expertise. At the centre of Alfardan’s pearl chamber at DJWE, a vast casket glimmered with the thousands of specimens Alfardan had gathered, sorted and evaluated. It constitutes

It could be possible for a very high-quality necklace of large, excellent natural Gulf pearls to be worth as much as QR 30 million “One is always learning something new with pearls,” he said. “They are living gems. With all the technology we have, you may yet learn the real character of a pearl from the man who drills it, who handles thousands of pearls in a day and feels through the tips of his fingers the texture and surface of the pearl. Perhaps the drill goes fast, showing the interior is soft; the driller may say, ‘I have a doubt about this one,’ even if by technology and eye it had appeared to be natural. It is

Vijay Shah from Hashimi Pearls, Bahrain

the largest collection of loose Gulf natural pearls in the world and is almost beyond value, though it might be estimated at between one and two billion Qatari riyals. “Qatar is, as always, one of the best and most celebrated in pearling,” said Alfardan, with reference to DJWE 2016’s strong showing in pearls. “People came a long way to see this. The long history in the region

GULF PEARLS

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GULF PEARLS

Hussein Alfardan remains a pre-eminent world authority on Gulf pearls and a renowned collector respected for his expertise

vcontinues to be encouraged by the energy of collectors and of eminent cultural figures here who are interested in and enthusiastic about pearls. We were gathered at the right time, in the right place, with the right people.” Collectors of pearls also provide the impetus for recording and categorisation of the specialised vocabulary that has described equipment, tools and the pearls themselves over the years. While most Arabic speakers might refer to a local pearl as lulu khaleeji, there is a whole language of particular characteristics documented. A round, clear, lustrous pearl of good quality is yakka. The lowest quality, by contrast, is khashra. Occasionally, divers find light-freckled pearls which emerge from the oyster naturally marked as though engraved, and which can be called munammash; and then there are also thahabi, golden pearls, and safri, golden-grey pearls which shine like metal. Al Majed, in business in Doha since 1945, emphasises this heritage aspect of pearls. Al Majed focused strongly on displaying antique and museum-grade pieces as examples of Qatari heritage and national treasures. A number of creations in pearls from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries were on display, among antique engraved arms and finely crafted, wooden jewellery boxes from India. One of the most remarkable displays was a pair of earrings which featured two near-identical, very large teardrop-shaped pearls. Each BQ Plus

was an extraordinary gem in its own right, but for two such close siblings to be found is extremely rare, especially among natural Gulf pearls. The large diamonds in the same earrings, though highly costly, were really only there as decoration for these rare pearls.

“The long history in the region continues to be encouraged by the energy of collectors and of eminent cultural figures here who are interested in and enthusiastic about pearls” “As the fourth generation of the family in this business, we positioned our pearls and heritage pieces in the centre of our display area at DJWE,” Safari said. “This supported our interest in informing and educating members of the community about the history and traditions of pearls, locally and regionally. With our traditional pearl workers here, who demonstrated every day the ancient historical techniques of cleaning, drilling and stringing pearls, we showed the work that our grandfathers used to do before the petrochemical industry arrived.” The traditional designs for pearl jewellery continue to be observed and refined at Hashimi Pearls (Bahrain),

represented at DJWE and in Doha through Arts & Gems, a family jewellery house which brings together traditional handcrafting techniques with modern, elegant designs. Vijay Shah, for Hashimi Pearls, explained that design for pearls starts with the character of the stone. Bahraini pearls are classically a creamy colour, best accentuated using 21-carat gold which enhances their brilliance. The pearls are threaded on silk, which is both strong and very flexible to allow the strands to hang well, and they are exceedingly carefully matched for colour and size. Because every pearl is different from every other, ‘matching’ means positioning each individual gem in relation to the others around it to find the proper beauty of the whole arrangement. For the same reason, very high-quality necklaces and strands are graduated in size, rather than appearing to be composed of identically-sized pearls. “It was excellent to be displaying natural Gulf pearls in Doha,” said Shah. “Many Qatari customers also come to Bahrain to look at pearls. Everyone in the Gulf knows and loves Gulf pearls as a product of their motherland; and we design accordingly to local taste.” The traditional designs by which a wearer may display pearls to their best advantage include the single strand, which is the classic pearl necklace. When small pearls are used in many thin strands to compose a rope, it is called mishllah. The necklaces composed of multiple, separated strands of larger pearls belong to the category of traditional bridal design called zalada. Most popularly, one single large and beautiful pearl in a setting designed to show off its individual beauty is called dana: the queen among pearls. Shah noted that in his own past research he found out that Doha’s favourite gemstone has a long history of exclusivity. “Pearls in former centuries were only permitted to be worn by royalty and billionaires,” he said. “Indian maharajahs and European aristocrats might at the same time have been wearing Gulf pearls from the same oyster beds.”

GULF PEARLS

April 2016

INTERNATIONAL HERITAGE

INTERNATIONAL CULTURAL HERITAGE ABOUNDS AT DJWE 2016 Exhibitors take pride in pieces steeped in meaning

International heritage and personal histories were the surprise stand-outs at this year’s Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition. Many exhibitors proved to be collectors for love at least as much as they are jewellers for profit, and dozens of the pieces on show at the 2016 edition boasted fascinating backgrounds as well as a breathtaking appearance. “Remarkable happenings are connected with these jewels,” said Ahmed Al-Mullah, chief operations officer of Elan Entertainment. “In parallel with the successful introduction of educational seminars and workshops at DJWE, we are delighted the exhibition evolved into more than a major luxury event – it was a cultural opportunity and historical tour of the world.” The King of Italy’s grapes Italian jeweller Veschetti displayed a delicate brooch of silver, gold, diamond and saltwater pearls in the form BQ Plus

of a naturalistic bunch of grapes on the vine, which used to belong to the family of Victor Emmanuel II, King of Italy (1820-1878) and first king of a united Italy since the 6th century.

“It is a piece of royal jewellery, almost certainly commissioned and created for a lady of the court” “It is a piece of royal jewellery, almost certainly commissioned and created for a lady of the court,” recounts Veschetti. “This style of work is very typical of Mario Buccellati, one of the most important jewellers of that period, though it has remained unsigned. Buccellati also created jewels for the celebrated Italian poet Gabriele d’Annunzio, who was his client and great friend.”

Pearls and diamonds represent the grapes on the brooch, while two naturalistic silvery leaves spring from the top. Lacking white gold, jewellers of the period used silver to give a white colour in precious pieces; but Bucellati also made vine-leaves in yellow gold, examples of which can be found with fellow-Italian jeweller La Piramide. Out of the abyss La Piramide displayed an intriguing necklace design in which diamond-encrusted gold swirls around 2 large, unusual yellow ‘melo’ pearls. “I was in Ha Long Bay, in Thailand,” remembers designer Roberto Sciaguato, “diving for a special kind of pearl which comes from a shell called melo melo. Underwater, in a deep place, I found a large, promising shell. When I lifted it, from underneath burst out a manta ray which had been hiding there, and startled me. But I succeeded in taking the shell, inside which I found a large and beautiful

INTERNATIONAL HERITAGE

April 2016

INTERNATIONAL HERITAGE

yellow pearl. This is how I found the design for this necklace, which shows the pearl in water, half-enclosed by the manta. On the back, engraved words describe shafts of light entering darkness to lighten the soul.”

“Ladies wore four or five necklaces at once of different lengths, and bracelets right up the arms. It was an era of lavish style” La Piramide also held a giant rare pearl from the former collection of the Emperor of Vietnam, and a carved emerald (currently in Italy) commissioned by Emperor Napoleon to portray his beloved. The Duke’s dinner Another imperial green stone had a story to tell at Glenn Spiro. Ian Rose, managing director, draws aside the paper protecting a beryl necklace, and a river of green fire flashes into life. It terminates in a luminous pale green crystal the size of a child’s fist. Glenn Spiro bought the beryl (a gemstone related to emerald) as a loose stone from a woman who had it from her mother, who, in turn, had it from hers. As a young woman, that grandmother

Italian jeweller Veschetti displayed a delicate brooch of silver, gold, diamond and saltwater pearls in the form of a naturalistic bunch of grapes on the vine, which used to belong to the family of Victor Emmanuel II, King of Italy (1820-1878) and first king of a united Italy since the 6th century.

lived in 1920s Paris, where fashionable society embraced extravagance and hedonism. “Ladies at that time weren’t wearing one necklace,” said Rose. “Led by Queen Mary in England, high fashion revived the days of the Maharajahs: ladies wore four or five necklaces at once of different lengths, and bracelets right up the arms. It was an era of lavish style.”

Glenn Spiro bought the beryl (a gemstone related to emerald) as a loose stone from a woman who had it from her mother, who, in turn, had it from hers. As a young woman, that grandmother lived in 1920s Paris, where fashionable society embraced extravagance and hedonism.

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One evening, the young lady attended a luxurious dinner gala thrown by an exiled Romanov (the Russian royal house). Very possibly, the host was the Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich, first cousin of Tsar Nicholas II, assassin of Rasputin and lover of Coco Chanel. At dinner, each lady was given a gift. The young lady who became the grandmother received the 302-carat beryl. Two generations later, Glen Spiro set it on a necklace of yellow and white gold lavishly ornamented with 22 opals (weighing nearly 100 carats), 28 green tourmalines, 278 round paraiba, 276 tsavorites and 3,196 round yellow diamonds – a fittingly opulent tribute to the history of an extraordinary gem. The astrological amulet Jaipur-based jewellers Amrapali also recreated the days of the Maharajahs, with exuberant, colourful masterworks reflecting the traditional motifs of royal Indian culture. One of their signature pieces was a collar of gold, South Sea pearls, and polki diamonds set round with nine enormous gemstones – catseye, yellow sapphire, emerald, blue sapphire,

INTERNATIONAL HERITAGE

ruby, diamond, pearl, red coral and black hessonite – standing for nine planetary influences. This is the sacred, royal Navratna, or ‘nine gems’ design. Apart from its astrological significance, it bears an amazing story of craftsmanship. “Except the diamond and pearl, each gem is carved with lotus flowers,” explains Sameer Lilani, head of UK operation. “Each stone has different physical properties, and must be carved using different techniques and tools, but each must look the same. Therefore, for this necklace, the emerald carver went first. The finished emerald was passed to the hard-stone expert, who used it as the model to carve the ruby and the two sapphires.

The enamel protects the gold from the wearer’s skin, and adds a private pleasure to the wearing of the piece – a secret for the owner’s eyes only

Twenty years after he started farming pearls, Wan turned to jewellery design, and remembered the black pearls he had found. The idea of a necklace was born – a necklace unlike anything the world had seen before.

This was then repeated with three more experts for the other stones. Just the carving probably took the team 250 hours. A lot of effort goes into making it all look effortless!” The exquisitely worked back of the necklace is a riot of floral ornament in brilliant red, green, white and gold mina kari or enamel painting. The enamel protects the gold from the wearer’s skin, and adds a private pleasure to the wearing of the piece – a secret for the owner’s eyes only. “Although not always,” says Lilani. “We have one client who bought a spectacular necklace with a painted back to wear to her daughter’s wedding; she tells us that she has worn it just once facing forward – at the wedding – but a hundred times facing La Piramide displayed an intriguing necklace design in which back, because she loves the diamond-encrusted gold swirls around 2 large, unusual yellow enamel so much.” ‘melo’ pearls.

The forty-year necklace If forty hours seems a long time to carve one stone, how about forty years to make one necklace? Robert Wan started out as a farmer of pearls in the South Seas, supplying the jewellery trade. He used to keep the very largest pearls (more than 15mm diameter) in his safe, with the idea that eventually they could be displayed in a Tahiti museum of pearls. One such specimen was a large and beautiful black pearl, very rare, which, in Tahiti, signifies power. Seven years later, Wan found another black pearl of similar size and quality. Twenty years after he started farming pearls, Wan turned to jewellery design, and remembered the black pearls he had found. The idea of a necklace was born – a necklace unlike anything the world had seen before. To find the other matching pearls has taken twenty more years. The spectacular result was displayed for the first time at DJWE 2016: a choker of twenty-five giant black pearls, begun in Wan’s forties and completed in his eighties. Robert Wan’s son now oversees a pearl farm in Qatar. April 2016

INTERNATIONAL HERITAGE

The last pink sapphire Moussaieff also unveiled a one-off masterpiece of rare stones at DJWE 2016: a colour-changing pink and purple sapphire necklace, containing 151 carats of sapphires, and 53 carats of diamonds. “Natural purple sapphires are very rare – and colour-changing sapphires, which move between pink and purple depending on the light, are even rarer,” said Moussaieff. “Many people do not even know that they exist.” The necklace gains value because so many rare stones are brought “I imagined the Sultan ring transforming into a magnificent poison ring (a ring with a secret compartment). I worked out a together. subtle mechanism for the ring to open and reveal the message, and then, to enhance it, I also moved the diamonds to the sides.” The pink, oval 22-carat central sapphire was obtained when Mousalso to engrave a message under the it cut specially, to contrast with the saieff flew in person to the purple sapphires. The whole is an stone – ‘joy’ in beautiful Arabic calligheat and dust of East Africa to view incredibly rare suite of stones that raphy. I started searching in India for the rough at the mine. “I bought it have come together as a family over light-colored stones that would let the then and there,” she said, “and had many years. You would never know message show through, and found the to look at them that it has been such most beautiful faceted amethysts.” a painstaking search to find all their But Amina fell in love with the brothers and sisters.” amethysts in an unexpected way. “This is when the concept completely The whole is an incred- evolved! I imagined the Sultan ring transforming into a magnificent ibly rare suite of poison ring (a ring with a secret stones that have come compartment). I worked out a subtle together as a family mechanism for the ring to open and over many years reveal the message, and then, to enhance it, I also moved the diamonds to the sides.” The joyful poison ring Amina’s final words as a designer Ultimately, what shone out of the jewels on display at DJWE 2016 was of fine jewellery speak about the spirit the creative passion of the designers of DJWE as a whole. “As an artist, for their materials and work. Egyptian you’re constantly changing and evolvjeweller Azzy Fahmy’s head designer, ing. It’s such a beautiful process to see Amina, described how her idea for an your designs coming to life, from a ordinary ring transformed when she sketch to a wonderful masterpiece.” ‘met’ the stones. Lead image: One of Jaipur-based jeweller Amra“To begin with, I aimed to create pali’s signature pieces was a collar of gold, South a classic ‘Sultan’ ring, with a large Sea pearls, and polki diamonds set round with nine enormous gemstones – catseye, yellow sapphire, Moussaieff also unveiled a one-off masterpiece of stone and signature Azza Fahmy emerald, blue sapphire, ruby, diamond, pearl, red rare stones: a colour-changing pink and purple sapdetails. I was fascinated by the concoral and black hessonite – standing for nine planephire necklace, containing 151 carats of sapphires, tary influences. and 53 carats of diamonds. cept of hidden messages and decided BQ Plus

INTERNATIONAL HERITAGE

April 2016

DJWE COLLECTIONS

From dazzling pearls, sparkling diamonds, precious stones and authentic gold, Amiri Gems brings you all things bright and beautiful. These collections were presented by international jewellery designers at DJWE 2016.

Letalis

Hazoorilal

Cushion tanzanite earrings from Letalis

Hazoorilal by Sandeep Narang is the only brand in India to present the Lily Cut and Orchidea Cut diamonds which are truly one of their kind pieces. They are renowned for diamonds, gold, polki, kundan jewellery and are one of the early pioneers of coloured diamonds.

Letalis

Pear shaped tanzanite with 2/3 band diamond band set in 18 kt gold from Letalis

Palmieroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s large precious stones become the â&#x20AC;&#x153;creative pretextâ&#x20AC;? to give life to small fascinating encircling sculptures. Gold and diamonds embrace and capture the stone and originate elaborate structures and curvatures that intensify the stone natural beauty.

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Palmiero

The Flowers Collection by Carlo Palmiero is a celebration of Nature. Precious jewels whose ambitious aim is to represent Nature and pay homage to it through the brilliance of precious stones and the nobility of gold.

Mariani

Samer Halimeh

DJWE COLLECTIONS

Samer Halimeh jewels have continuously captivated the most illustrious clients. The individual beauty and uniqueness of each creation naturally garners an aura of exclusivity.

“Hand crafted from 18ct White Gold by expert craftsmen in the Theo Fennell London Flagship Store, the beauty of the water lily has been set in an infinite spotlight. Delicately encased in 0.82 ct Diamond studded 18ct White Gold ‘petals,’ this beautiful ode to nature features a 9.49ct Blue/Green Tourmaline at its heart.

Theo Fennell

Mariani

Theo Fennell

With each new collection, Mariani still proves its unmatched ability to satisfy the needs and desires of the contemporary world all the while remaining true to the history that has nurtured its heritage.

Striking iridescent 10.12ct Ethiopian Opals star in these classic Gem Set Cufflinks finished off beautifully with 2.21ct Pavé Diamond surrounds. Hand-crafted from 18ct White Gold and Black Rhodium in the workshop above Theo Fennell’s London Flagship Store, the right birthstone or a favourite colour can personalise a pair of Gem Set Cufflinks in an instant.

April 2016

DJWE PARTICIPANTS

THE MIDAS TOUCH Amiri Gems provides a vast variety of styles and wide range of exquisitely-designed jewellery, to be passed on from generation to generation

Sheikh Nawaf Bin Nasser Al Thani’s passion for gems and jewels led to the founding of Amiri Gems in 1994. When it was conceived, Sheikh Nawaf envisaged a company that would represent the crème de la crème of international elite watch and fine jewellery brands in Qatar. In line with his vision and guidance, the company has surged to new heights. BQ Plus catches up with them at DJWE 2016. What are the brands that the new Amiri Gems flag store includes? The Flagship store has individual boutiques for Adler and Chatila. Amiri Gems carries jewellery brands such as Amrapali, Palmiero, Theo Fennell, Mariani, Oro Trend as well as Amiri Gems own line of jewellery. For watches Amiri Gems represents Concord, Jacob & Co, Franc Vila, Royal Diamonds, Icelink, Vogard as well as several customized and small watch manufacturers. We have also diversified our portfolio to include brands, such as Dottling that provide clients with customized safes and watch winders.

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Tell us more about the design, decor & facilities the new boutique includes? The new flagship boutique is approximately 700 m2. We worked with a world renowned architecture firm, based in Italy, for over a year to develop the concept for the boutique. The interior fixtures took a year to implement, as we had to ensure that the quality and finer details were as to our specification. Virtually all the material had to be imported, from the marble to the lighting, to make certain that the store was one of a kind. We have included two private rooms as it is very important to us to give our clients their privacy and to make them most comfortable. Upstairs the boutique boasts a very lavish Majlis room that is a fusion of European décor and Qatari traditional culture. The store also features separate boutiques for Adler and Chatila. We have been working with these brands for a number of years and their success in Qatar has prompted us to open up boutiques for them to cater to our clientele. Amiri gems reflects Sheikh Nawaf’s passion for gems and jewels, what criteria do follow in choosing brands and products? From a very young age, our chairman, Sheikh Nawaf has had a strong passion for the luxury market. Sheikh Nawaf’s passion for gems and jewels led to the founding of Amiri Gems in 1994. Sheikh Nawaf envisioned a company that would represent the crème de la crème of international elite watch and fine jewellery brands in Qatar. Inline with his vision and guidance, the management team at Amiri Gems partners with brands that we believe that have good potential in the long term. Qatar is a dynamic market and the consumers’ tastes are constantly changing with clients having a hybrid of Arabic/ European tendencies. Amiri Gems caters to a wide consumer base, so we ensure that we have something for all our clients for different tastes and different price points.

DJWE PARTICIPANTS

How, in your opinion, are the retail markets evolving in Qatar for your premium watches & fine jewellery brands? With ease of transportation nowadays, clients are travelling more frequently and as a result are being influenced by new trends be it from New York, London or even Tokyo. This has resulted in the retail market in Qatar being very similar to global markets and as a premier retailer the management team are constantly monitoring trends and new products worldwide.

Amiri Gems is looking to open up a further two boutiques by the end of 2016. We are currently in talks with hotels and shopping malls to select the right locations. Consumers are becoming more sophisticated buyers these days and are often enquiring about movements used in watches and exact sizes of diamond, quality, etc. This development is well received here at Amiri Gems as we believe it is very important to convey all information about all our products. Do you have any plans to add new brands into your portfolio? Details please. Amiri Gems is always looking to add the right brands to its portfolio. As mentioned earlier, our focus is to find the right brand with a long term plan to support and build a presence in the Qatari market. We are always in discussions with brands and forging relationships with them, as always we will launch with these brands at the annual Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition. Would you consider the opening of additional boutiques in the region? This has always been something in the back of our minds. We have seen numerous retailers following that pattern however the complexity of the GCC is something we need to consider. For the moment, we have no plans. What future plans does Amiri Gems hold for Qatar? Amiri Gems is looking to open up a further two boutiques by the end of 2016. We are currently in talks with hotels and shopping malls to select the right locations. Are there any plans to launch your own brand and designs? Amiri Gems has its own jewellery line. The Amiri Gems jewellery line has been in development for many years and was launched recently. We have taken our time to ensure that our manufacturing was done to the highest standards and our designs were innovative. We work closely with our designers so that each piece of

Sheikh Nawaf Bin Nasser Al Thaniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s passion for gems and jewels led to the founding of Amiri Gems in 1994.

jewellery is a work of art. We are working closely with numerous Object Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Art manufactures for customized projects with different corporate entities. Could you briefly describe the profile of the typical Amiri Gems customer? Amiri Gems holds a diverse product portfolio that caters to nearly all segments of our market. Our goal is to give the right product at the right price. We cater to expat communities, all the way to foreign delegates, to the ruling family. What trends and patterns have you been discerning with regard to buying habits of premium watches and luxurious jewellery in the Qatar? As mentioned earlier, we believe that the frequency of travel by our clients has an influence on their taste. We see that the latest trends abroad especially in North America and Europe has had a direct affect on buying habits. What challenges does Amiri Gems face in Qatar? Like all businesses, Amiri Gems faces the usual challenges. However with the current growth in the region and with the business foresight of Sheikh Nawaf and talented workforce at Amiri Gems we are confident that we will continue to grow at an unprecedented pace. April 2016

DJWE PARTICIPANTS

GRACE AND ELEGANCE Exquisite Montblanc pieces make dazzling regional debut at Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition Two of Montblanc’s high end limited edition writing instruments were seen for the first time in the Middle East when they are unveiled at this year’s Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition. Montblanc was at the Ali Bin Ali exhibition stand showcasing a selection of Montblanc’s expertly crafted timepieces, male jewellery and leather accessories.

The collection is enhanced by a new model that highlights again the ambition of Montblanc to share the passion for fine watchmaking Previewed at an exclusive reception for collectors on the eve of the show opening, the unique Montblanc Limited Edition Boheme Skeleton Papillon and Limited Edition Etoile Mystérieuse writing instruments are the latest additions to an already magnificent collection of jewelled writing instruments handcrafted by Montblanc. The Limited Edition Boheme Skeleton Papillon fountain pen is a one of a kind artisan piece crafted in solid red and white gold, and adorned with 1,402 brilliant cut diamonds totalling 7.21 carats and 37 flawless sapphires. Fragile butterflies and Keatsian plant tendrils delicately envelop the solid gold skeleton barrel and cap, culminating in a beautiful bloom. The 18 carat gold nib with platinum inlay is finely engraved with the iconic Montblanc emblem, as well as the significant

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4810 numeral - a reference to the 4,810 metre height of Europe’s highest mountain, Mont Blanc, and Montblanc’s symbol of excellence. Montblanc’s stunning Etoile Mystérieuse fountain pen continues the Maison’s heritage of exceptional craftsmanship in writing instruments. The elegant sterling silver writing instrument in black precious lacquer and crafted into a simple, yet elegant, curved silhouette includes 60 brilliant diamonds cascading down the barrel. A further 43 diamonds adorn the silver plated clip, while the signature Montblanc diamond floating in a transparent dome offers a crowning feature. In homage to the spirit of the legendary Montblanc Meisterstück Fountain Pen launched in 1924, Montblanc introduced a new watch collection to honour its 90th anniversary in 2014. From 2015 onwards this collection will assume its future position among the Montblanc watch families as the Heritage Spirit Collection. The collection is enhanced by a new model that highlights again the ambition of Montblanc to share the passion for fine watchmaking. The Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum interprets one of the most contemporary and useful complications - the world time function - in a new, innovative way. The earth is anchored at the core of this complication, that is named Orbis Terrarum, the Latin term for “globe”, “earth”, and “world”. This timepiece adopts a universal approach, telling the time in 24 timezones all over the world, thanks to a manufacture complication developed in-house by the Montblanc master watchmakers. The watch is driven by a self-winding mechanical movement, calibre MB29.20, beating at the frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 hertz) with the exclusive complication developed in-house by Montblanc.

DJWE PARTICIPANTS

ALL THAT GLITTERS Fifty One East dazzles at the 2016 Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition with fine jewellery and timepieces

Fifty One East astounded visitors with a showcase of their most exquisite collections at the Doha Jewellery & Watches Exhibition 2016. Their breathtaking pavilion showcased major luxury brands including three special wings for Rolex, Chanel and Boucheron, along with showcasing other brands including Azza Fahmy, Bremont, Brusi, Christian Bernard, Clerc, H. Moser & Cie., Hueb, JJeweles Milano, Luca Carati, Pasquale Bruni, Porsche Design, Tudor, Yvan Tufenkjian and Zeades.

“We consider participating in the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition as part of our heritage now, after years of successful shows” Bader Abdullah Al-Darwish, chairman and managing director of Darwish Holding, said: “We consider participating in the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition as part of our heritage now, after years of successful shows. It is with great pride that we presented our sophisticated refined jewellery and unique timepiece collections during the prestigious event.” During the DJWE 2016, the only other exhibition that Rolex participates in worldwide other than Baselworld, visitors saw a selection of the brand’s collection including the new generation of its most prestigious

model, the Oyster Perpetual DayDate, known as the “presidents’ watch”. Rolex presented three exceptional versions of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster in a new 39 mm size. The yellow or white gold models combine Rolex’s watchmaking art with the captivating natural charms of gold and colored gemstones. Chanel presented Les Talismans de Chanel, its new High Jewellery collection. The new jewellery sets express their power through magnetic and solar jewels, fascinating and mysterious creations, and daz-

ring and the Lion Antique necklac. Boucheron graced the show with yet another scintillating High Jewellery collection. “The Bleu de Jodhpur” is a bold jewellery interpretation of the Blue City of Jodhpur, with Art Deco inspired features. The French Maison showcased the romantic,

Azza Fahmy Ring - Inspired by an Indian traditional tiger ring that was historically worn by men, this 18kt gold stack ring is created around a 3.5ct faceted garnet

Bader Abdullah Al-Darwish, chairman and managing director of Darwish Holding

zling and hypnotic sparkles. Chanel also revealed unique pieces for the first time including the Lion Birman

yet chic and contemporary, Quatre Radiant new collection to include the Rose Gold Edition and small versions in white and yellow gold. Guests were also romanced by dreamy collections from celebrated Italian jeweler Pasquale Bruni. Fusing masterful techniques, audacious creativity and precious stones, the newest collections released are a stunning tour de force. In addition, Pasquale Bruni also presented its latest Giardini Segreti collection which gives every woman her own secret garden. H. Moser & Cie. showcased their “Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept” being part of SIHH, in addition to the Swiss Alp watch and the Pioneer collection. April 2016

STANDING THE TEST OF TIME

No matter where you are in the world, a Giantto timepiece is there to remind you that the most valuable thing that exists is time. With its daring approach to luxury and avant-garde design, Giantto typifies a lifestyle dedicated to the relentless quest for distinctive luxury. Giantto is not for the faint of heart. The collection projects a worldly elegance that is at home shimmering in the twilight breeze that blows through Hollywood Hills, or glinting in the firelight of a sizzling Moscow rendezvous. Giantto participated in the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition with Paris Gallery and will soon open their own boutique within Paris Gallery. In addition to its production models, Giantto also offers a number of limited edition timepieces. Prized by collectors, these watches typically feature a combination of precious metals and diamonds. The G2 Limited Edition was launched at the exhibition, along with other Limited Edition masterpieces. With this handmade, custom and over-the-top designs, Giantto truly sets itself apart from other watchmakers. This attention to individuality, aided by Giantto’s proximity to the entertainment industry, has attracted the attention of a large number of celebrities, including stars of films, sports and more. The company’s A-list clientele includes such boldface names as Kim Kardashian, Niki Hilton, Hulk Hogan, Jaime Foxx and world champion boxer Manny Pacquiao. GG , the founder, owner and designer/creative force behind the Giantto group was present at DJWE representing these exquisite timepieces. For more than quarter of a century, this Eastern European craftsman has single handedly created super luxurious diamond pieces specifically for those who want more out of jewellery or a timepiece than the average consumer. His unrelenting motive is to keep the artistry and craft within the industry and to continue to create one of a kind marvels for years to come. GG has an undisputed passion for his work in creating exclusive, unparalleled masterpieces. BQ Plus

DJWE PARTICIPANTS

THE SWISS CONNECTION Roger Dubuis masterpieces captured the imagination at Doha Exhibition

Roger Dubuis, renowned manufacturer of fine Swiss watches of high technicality and extreme complication, exhibited a range of their finest creations at the recent Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition. The Roger Dubuis collection of unique timepieces, was on view at their partner Ali Bin Ali’s booth, at the premier event for the luxury watch and jewellery industry in the wider Middle East region. “The Middle East is an increasingly important segment of our global market and watch aficionados from the region are among some of our most frequent customers, which is why we brought some of our best creations to the region through this event,” said Jean-Sebastien Berland, Roger Dubuis regional brand director.

After a number of standout handwound skeleton models, Roger Dubuis proudly introduces the first Automatic Skeleton watch to emerge from the Manufacture With the Astral Skeleton, Roger Dubuis celebrated the skeleton calibres with a stunning line-up of Excalibur models. Visitors to the Roger Dubuis had the opportunity to fully immerse themselves in the magnificent world of Roger Dubuis by donning the Oculus Rift glasses, which transported them into a unique sensorial 3D virtual reality experience.

DJWE PARTICIPANTS

April 2016

DJWE PARTICIPANTS

IT’S ALL IN THE DETAILS

With over 27 years of experience designing fine jewellery, Suzanne Kalan continues to create stunning collections that are both innovative and unique Suzanne Kalan showcased her award-winning Fireworks and Vitrine collections at Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition 2016 (DJWE). New jewellery designs from these collections were previewed at DJWE. Designing in 18-karat gold, Suzanne’s custom-cut colorful gemstones and dramatically placed diamonds add a modern twist to the traditional design. Her Fireworks collection has been revered by the jewellery industry for its breathtaking design which marries the chaos of scattered baguette diamonds with large custom-cut gemstones. Kalan developed the “Vitrine” concept, custom cutting gemstones flat on top and bottom in order to reveal a pave diamond panel behind the gemstone. Until today, the Vitrine custom cut continues to be an important design signature and figures prominently in the Fireworks collection, with some of the most glamorous and creative pieces showing off an explosion of scattered baguette diamonds behind large topazes and amethysts. Besides an evident love of colour and large scale in her jewellery, Kalan’s designs are infused by a seesawing duality between symmetry and asymmetry, beautifully manifest in every piece. In the past four years, Kalan’s daughter Patile Kalandjian has joined the family company and designs the KALAN by Suzanne Kalan Collection. Set in 14-karat gold, the collection features an array of hand-picked semi-precious stones with accents of diamonds and sapphires. Her designs have caught the attention of many tastemakers and celebrities including, Rihanna, Jennifer Lopez and Sofia Vergara. Suzanne Kalan is available worldwide, including at Harrods, Net-a-Porter, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Dover Street Market and TSUM. BQ Plus

THE JEWEL OF THE JEWELLER

The pearl is a constant in Maria Joao’s collections

Maria João has dreamed about the world of jewellery and diamonds since her childhood. She presented her collection, entitled Desert Jewels, at the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition 2016.

“The mystery of the pearl surpasses our imagination, our creativity” “I am in love with pearls. Pearls of all shapes and sizes. The mystery of the pearl surpasses our imagination, our creativity. The colour, shape, lustre of pearls is so fascinating, as is the way they come into this world. “To make a collection in which the Pearl is associated to a jewel, is a constant in my work as, for me, the pearl transmits security, subtlety and attitude. If we associate pearls with quartzes and rubies, we have an explosive combination of sensuality, of love. The jewel becomes a symbol of purity, of light, of the mystery of life. It was based on these passions that I elaborated a collection of exclusive jewels for the Qatar fair. ‘Desert Jewels’ are unique and exclusive handcrafted jewels. This is my way of working. Creating unique pieces, creating dreams, creating desires. Having clients that wear ‘jewels with attitude’.”

DJWE PARTICIPANTS

BEJEWELLED BY GRAFF

Exceptional craftsmenship is woven through Graff’s rich heritage.

UNCOMPROMISING STYLE AND QUALITY

The name Bamford Watch Department is synonymous with uncompromising style and quality

Bamford Watch Department are proud to be the first company to personalise a range of steel sports watches. The business was started in 2003 and has been based around the personalisation of various iconic sports watches from some of the major brands in the watch world. The Bamford Watch Department customisation is undertaken independently of the various watch brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Heuer etc. This means that while the original brands warranties are no longer applicable, your watch is covered by the Bamford Watch Departments own full five year guarantee. Bamford Watch Department works independently from the major watch brands much in the same way as Brabus might customise a Mercedes Benz. They offer their clients a range of watches customised to their own specification or a choice of designs from our own customised range. Bamford Watch Department are driven by their passion for engineering excellence and innovation. Inspired by the demand of their clients to wear watches that are exclusive and individual. They have also created within their various ranges some special limited edition series based around the most desirable of sports watches from Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Bamford Watches are available with a wide range of personalised elements, including their own unique formulae of military grade titanium coating (MGTC) and graphite particle coating (GPC) and bespoke dial colour options service.

Laurence Graff OBE founded Graff Diamonds in 1960. Today, after more than five decades at the pinnacle of the luxury jewellery industry Graff continues to push the boundaries of ever-greater innovation and excellence. Graff exhibited their beautiful jewellery at the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition 2016. Among the fine pieces showcased were the exquisite emerald necklace and earrings, incorporating over 550 carats of emeralds and 90 carats of diamonds. Adding a further allure the floral jewel at the centre of the necklace can be removed and worn separately as a brooch.

Crafted in Graff’s London workshop, another piece at the exhibition was an extraordinary emerald and diamond necklace that exemplified the attention to detail necessary in the technique of colour matching gems, featuring an incredible three dimensional design, requiring true perfection from every angle. Incorporating 28 cabochon drop emeralds increasing in size which lead the eye fluidly to a central single outstanding 38.68 carat pear shape cabochon emerald; this is a highly unique piece, and an epitome of stunning craftsmanship. Each emerald is carefully and skillfully pierced, which is highly risky as emeralds are notoriously brittle, and then crafted into individual pavé mounts with a pear shape diamond set between to prevent the delicate stones from touching the next. April 2016

OTHER EXHIBITIONS

THE UNIQUE AND LASTING APPEAL OF BASELWORLD Switzerland - Baselworld 2016, the unmissable trendsetting show for the global watch and jewellery industry came to a positive conclusion on 24 March after eight eventful and memorable days. 1,500 of the world’s most famous and prestigious brands representing the entire spectrum of watches, jewellery, diamonds, gemstones, pearls as well as machinery and supplies united in Basel with renowned buyers and the global press to take the pulse of the market, celebrate the unveiling of new collections and experience first-hand the launch of trendsetting innovations and creations. The latest edition of the undisputed trendsetting event for the world’s watch and jewellery industry, Baselworld 2016, lived up to its reputation as the launching pad for global trends. The show once again was the nerve centre for more than 145,000 attendees that comprised representatives from exhibiting companies, buyers and visitors and journalists from over 100 countries. At the focal point of the entire industry, Baselworld 2016 provided attendees the unique opportunity to take the pulse of the market, discover

those new trendsetting collections that will prevail for the following 12 months, and equally importantly, to capitalise on the enormous business opportunities that are available exclusively at Baselworld. Thierry Stern, president of Patek Philippe, agrees: “Baselworld is always the most important event of the year in terms of meetings, in fact it is the time of year where we meet all our partners and numerous journalists around the world in a concentrated period.” Jean-Claude

Biver, president of the LVMH Watch Division and CEO TAG Heuer, confirmed that the industry has every reason to be optimistic, saying: “Considering the political, economic, financial and monetary tensions in the world, I am still quite optimistic for 2016, taking into account our results during these days of exhibiting at Baselworld. The general atmosphere at Baselworld has shown us that this optimism for our brands is shared by many of our retailers.”

A NEW CHAPTER IN THE WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY Dubai - Taking place from 14 to 17 April 2016, Vicenzaoro Dubai is the unique networking platform designed for the Jewellery Business Community in one of the main luxury destinations in the world. At its second edition, Vicenzaoro Dubai is an unmissable event designed for key players of jewellery production who will be presenting their latest and exclusive collections to the most qualified

international operators: a privileged opportunity to access whole markets of the Middle East, Russia, Africa, Central and South-East Asia. The exhibition format, subdividing the layout into different communities, is conceived to meet the most dynamic needs of the international gold and jewellery demand, providing a complete overview of the exhibition offer and guiding the

buyers in their business visit. During the four days, an exclusive calendar of networking events, seminars on the latest trends, one-to-one business meetings, conferences and workshops, will be organized in cooperation with leading international organizations, aimed at supporting the future of the jewellery industry on a global scale.

INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY & WATCH SHOW Abu Dhabi - The International Jewellery & Watch Show, a five-day event, will be held 3-7 May, 2016 at the Abu Dhabi National Exhibition Centre in Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates. JWS is dedicated to those passionate about exquisite fashion jewellery. The event is proud to BQ Plus

showcase some of the best names in the business, the latest jewellery & watch trends and features exclusive jewellery sets as well as the everyday piece that presents a touch of glamour. JWS 2016 promises selling opportunities to high end consumers; increased

exposure and awareness of your brand in the region; outreach and networking with Abu Dhabi high-end buyers; consolidating relationships with existing customers; platform to launch new products and benefit from local and regional media coverage.