Issue 3 • Edition 6
Featured in this issue
FIVE HOTSPOTS FOR RUFFED GROUSE BY: BILL MARCHEL
PLUS MORE! • A Fishing Rod is a Fishing Rod, Right? Wrong! • Fall Walleye Patterns
By: Jim Kalkofen By: Dave Csanda
• The Great Minnesota Forest Fire of 1910 • Fall Muskie Fishing in the Brainerd Lakes Area
By: Don Walker
By: Bernie Barringer
• Your Best Shot Read Online: www.brainerddispatch.com or www.brainerdoutdoors.com
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Welcome
MY AUTUMN LAMENT
Summer, like the days of our lives, has a way of slip sliding away and early autumn brings us the first real hint of that. It’s summer’s last hurrah, before the chores of autumn and winters icy siege. Everywhere you look in early fall the subtle changes become more evident. Maybe it’s the foggy morning over the still lake as the cool air meets the warm waters, or the dew-covered grass that dampens your sandals on your morning trip to the garden. It might be the waning sunlight each evening as darkness creeps in earlier and earlier. Those little yellow goslings in the yard that are now are as big as their parents, and fairs and festivals, and back to school sales. Kitchens filled with canning jars and fresh vegetables. Carpets of lily pads bob on the surface of the lake while bass hover safely under their leafy umbrellas. Yes, my friends, summer is losing its grip, and although you seem so powerless, and have little choice, somewhat chagrined, you watch it slip away. You try to think of all of the things you wanted to do this summer but somehow the list you made in March still seems to be largely intact. The days seemed to have been way to busy and your spirit too lackadaisical to get anything done. It’s as if June and July just gave us a taste of summer and then snuck off someplace, never to return, and suddenly you became conscious of their absence, but its to late now to recoup them. Like the days of our lives, we have so little control of time, and nature’s ongoing events. Like a ball rolling down a mountaintop, life seems to just pick up speed as it heads towards its inevitable conclusion. We wish for it all to slow down, and give
By: Mike Holst
us a chance to digest it, and enjoy those lazy days of summer, but you’re drawn back to the words of an aging grandmother who told you when you were little, “If wishes were horses, beggars would ride,” and although it was to much for your little mind to comprehend way back then, it seems so fitting now. It seems so ironic and more than a coincidence, that when you were born, and your little heart was set in motion, there was a correlation between the beats of your heart and the second hand of a clock, and every moment that you live they both tick on in harmony like the hands of time, and when your heart finally stops--well so does time, at least for you. But our Creator did grant us one ability that seems to be unique, and ours alone, and that’s the capability to recollect, and reflect, and at least in our own minds bring back those summer days long gone by and revisit them again. We need only each day, to take the time to store those future reminiscences for years to come. We have one other fine feature, and that is the capacity to edit our memories, and keep the best of the best, and delete all of the storms, trials, and tribulations that seek to make us sad, and when we want, bring back just the good times to enjoy them over and over again.
M I K E H O L S T Mike Holst lives in Crosslake
Mn. He is a published fiction author and has five books currently in print. You can check his web site for more info on them. Mike also writes a weekly column for the Northland Press which is a small town newspaper in Crosslake. He contributes quite regularly to the Brainerd Dispatch open forum. www.mikeholstfictionwriter.com.
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Welcome ...................................... 3 A Fishing Rod is a Fishing Rod ... 5 Fall Walleye Patterns .................. 7 Test Your Walleye IQ .................. 10 Five Hotspots For Ruffed Grouse... 12 Hawk Ridge................................ 16 Fall is Big Pike Time! ................... 18 Fall Muskie Fishing ..................... 20
Five Hotspots For
RUFFED GROUSE
The Great Minnesota Forest Fire of 1910 ...................... 22 Service Directory/Calendar ....... 25 Your Best Shot ............................ 26
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The Great Minnesota Forest Fire of 1910
506 James Street • P.O. Box 974 Brainerd, MN 56401 (218) 829-4705 www.brainerddispatch.com www.brainerdoutdoors.com Visit us on Facebook 4
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STAFF: Publisher .................................... Tim Bogenschutz Advertising Director .........................Sam Swanson Copy Editor ............Roy Miller and Brian Peterson Marketing / Special Projects Coordinator ... Nikki Lyter Magazine Layout ..................................Andy Goble Ad Design .......................................... Jeff Dummer, Andy Goble, Jennifer Fuchs, Lisa Henry, Angie Hoefs, Cindy Spilman and Sue Stark Sales.................................................. Dave Wentzel Online Sales Manager ........................... Phil Seibel Outdoor Traditions is a trademarked magazine published by the Brainerd Dispatch, P.O. Box 976, Brainerd, MN 56401. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. ®2010
On the cover: Nate Spilman with dog Zip after a successful hunt. Photo by Lindsy Spilman
A FISHING ROD IS A FISHING ROD,
RIGHT? WRONG! RACKS
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at stores like Gander, Fleet and Reed’s. These mass-produced rods sell from a few bucks to hundreds of dollars. And they catch fish. One of the most prolific Brainerd lakes rod builders does it his way, and designs custom rods for individuals, one at a time. Kris Kristufek (pronounced kris-ta-feck) admitted that he is now in the midst of a hobby that went wild. The Breezy Point resident sold his first custom rod in 1997. However, the translation for “custom” might be “elegant, one-of-a-kind masterpieces” after examining his creations. Kristufek said,“People want functionality and action they can’t find in store-bought rods.” He starts with top-quality rod blanks, usually graphite or bamboo. He measures and interviews each prospective client. Owners become part of the design process, selecting colors, wraps, action, handles, etc. In his woodshop, he creates a unique handle that matches the hand, grip, forearm and reel of the person. He uses the best Fuji guides in the world, with more per rod than “store” rods. “They reduce friction and increase sensitivity,” he said. A balanced rod feels weightless and makes casting all day effortless. He compared a quality rod to a car with balanced tires and the front end aligned being a joy to drive. “Same as a perfectly balanced fishing rod,” he said. Each rod blank has a spine, and he carefully determines the spine and applies the guides accordingly. This reduces the phenomenon of rod twist, makes landing fish easier and increases balance. Rod construction materials baffle even industry insiders. For instance, Kristufek said there are about 1,800 rod blanks available. He has 250 spools of different colored thread for wrapping guides onto rods. More than 100 types of handles in 10 different woods, cork, foam, etc., can be selected to fit the customer’s personality. He said the Fuji rod guide catalog is one-half inch thick. “There must be hundreds and hundreds to choose from,” he said. He uses only the Rolls Royce of guides, and they amount
Photos Provided by Jim Kalkofen
to about $10 per rod. The fascination of satisfying customers and himself is gratifying to Kristufek. So is customizing rods for special needs, such as 8-foot musky rods with 14-inch handles. Or lake trout rods for a Lake Superior captain who fishes with stainless steel wire and needed a “bluegill” soft tip and gradual bend for a long rod. The rod is the only shock absorber when handling big lakers on wire. Tuna and shark rods, bamboo rods, flyrods, spinning and casting, all start their lives in the lathe, with hands crafting each element of the finished product. He was especially proud of a rod built recently for an injured war veteran. A rocket-propelled grenade blew off the soldier’s left arm and only a thumb and finger remained on the other hand. “He couldn’t hold a rod and loved to fish, so I poured a foam handle with a groove to accept his ‘hook.’ It worked, and he was able to hold the rod, while casting and reeling for muskies,” Kristufek said. Making it possible for people with no hands or arm to fish is one reason he keeps coming to the shop. His enjoyment in making a custom rod may be a gauge of success. But, teaching others adds immensely to his enjoyment. He has taught 34 adult rod-building classes locallyand is gearing up for a winter season to introduce
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more people. “Each student receives a rod blank, the tools, parts and instruction to build what will become the best rod in his (or her arsenal. Many gals take the classes),” he said. Kristufek’s sessions run Friday, Saturday and Sunday for a total of about 16 hours, starting in November at Gander. The cost is only $250, and students should call him directly to schedule - 218-562-4512. About 200 students have taken his classes. He estimated 300,000 people build one or two rods a year, with about 200 guys trying to make it professionally. “Only a handful can make a living and feed a family doing this. You can’t get paid for all the hours that go into these projects,” he said. For the past several years he has been making about 150 rods annually. The business he calls LakeLady Custom Fishing Rods took off when Marv Koep asked him to build a rod (which became eight rods) for then Gov. Jesse Ventura when he hosted the 2001 Governor’s Opener locally. “The publicity with the cigar-chewing governor catching fish with my rods was the kick-start I needed,” Kristufek said. Customers from England, Italy, Australia and Saudi Arabia use his rods, but most are ordered by anglers in the Upper Midwest. Kristufek had not built a rod until retirement from AMOCO, where he worked for 32 years. Well, technically, he built a rod for his grandmother at age 5. He broke her bamboo rod, and brought her a willow branch tied with string and a hook as a replacement. Now 67, he has about 15 years of experience and knows his hobby has gone wild. “I hardly get to fish much anymore,” he said. As if that’s not enough, Kristufek is also a volunteer medical courier for the National Marrow Program based in Minneapolis. With a worldwide registry of bone marrow and stem cell donors, he flies from donor hospitals to transplant hospitals everywhere in the world. In the past six years, he has made 47 international trips, each saving a life. J I M K A L K O F E N has been in and around
boats all his life. He has been director of the largest walleye tournament circuits for two decades, and was inducted into the National Freshwater Fishing Hall of Fame.
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FALL WALLEYE PATTERNS
A DAY AND NIGHT DIFFERENCE C O M E S E P T E M B E R , cooling weather begins chilling and mixing the water in our Brainerd area lakes. Eventually, this “fall turnover” process disrupts the summer thermocline and reoxygenates the extreme depths. Once turnover is complete, water temperature and oxygen content are fairly consistent from top to bottom, and there are no barriers to fish movement. This stability allows walleyes to move extremely deep in fall. Local anglers traditionally fish deep midlake structure using heavy jigs tipped with minnows or livebait rigs baited with large chubs. It’s superb fall walleye fishing at its finest. Yet it’s not the only game in town, because all walleyes don’t immediately move into deep water at this time. In fact, some do just the opposite. Few anglers realize that walleyes and baitfish are also
Photos provided by Dave Csanda
able to move extremely shallow in early fall, and that there are incentives to do so. In natural lakes throughout the Brainerd area, weeds are beginning to thin, lay down and die, providing fewer hiding places for baitfish and better hunting conditions for walleyes. At night, shiners cluster at river and creek mouths in early fall, as well as in narrows areas between lakes connected by current flow. By mid-fall, frogs and salamanders begin leaving swamps and entering shallow muddy bays, drawing walleyes to feed on them in the shallows at night. And in deep, clear natural lakes like Pelican, Whitefish, Gull and Ten Mile, ciscoes gather along mainlake sand flats in late fall to spawn in the shallows at night once water
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temperatures dip to around 40 F. The largest walleyes in the lake often feed on them atop shallow shoreline flats that plunge directly into deep water. In effect, a combination of factors enhance shallow feeding effectiveness at this time of year, at least during brief windows of opportunity before the majority of the walleyes begin settling into deep water for winter. The common factor between them is, shallow walleye feeding activity often occurs under the protective cover of darkness, when walleyes have a visual advantage over their prey, and feel safe prowling the shallows. Undoubtedly, the monthly periods around the full and dark moons of September, October and even November (brrrr!) are key trophy times for shallow night walleyes. Bright, full moon conditions often delay the bite until well into the night, such as after midnight, as opposed to beginning just after sundown. On the plus side, a full moon casts plenty of light, allowing you to see what you’re doing. Clouds or dark moon conditions tend to promote feeding activity all night long, theoretically from sundown until dawn, allowing you to fish for a few hours after sunset or before dawn with good results. On the down side, it’s blacker than black out there during a dark moon, and you need to be organized, carry a flashlight or head lamp, and keep your gear to a minimum to avoid tangles and assorted tackle problems. Let’s look at some classic, early fall night walleye patterns.
“Lipped” shorelines Shorelines with a distinctive, wall-like “lip” that drops into 2 or 3 feet of water are better fishing areas than those that have a gentle slope extending from shore. Walleyes run baitfish up against the wall at night.You can fish them equally well from shore or from a boat; you might also be able to wade them if it’s not too deep. Don’t just make casts straight out from or into the shoreline; cast somewhat parallel to the wall to keep your lure in the fish zone. Use steady retrieves with floating-diving minnow imitators or jigs tipped with softbaits. Impart occasional pumps and pauses to your lure when using suspending minnowbaits to trigger following fish into striking.
Inside weedlines Gently sloping beaches allow baitfish to escape into
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inches of water, and are thus not necessarily good places to fish from shore. However, you can easily wade out to deeper water of 3 feet or so to see what lies offshore. Perhaps there’s an inside weededge that draws walleyes at night, or patches of rock or gravel. The weeds may be too tall fish over; if so, focus casts along their inner edge. If it’s too deep for wading, fish from a boat.
Weed tops Weeds extending all the way to the surface — a typical summer condition — can be difficult to fish over. But in fall, receding weeds that have open water above their tops are easy to fish with both casting and trolling techniques. Dead, brown weeds attract few walleyes, however. To fish expansive weedbeds, longline troll a shallow-running minnow imitator on 75 feet or so of line, back and forth over the weeds, using your electric trolling motor for stealth. A spinner harness tipped with a nightcrawler, with a split shot or two on the line about two feet ahead of the spinner, is another option. Once you determine an area of fish activity, consider switching to casting tactics.
Small rock reefs Small rock reefs rising near the surface are easy places to circle with your electric trolling motor while casting to their tops with minnow baits or shad crankbaits. Once you determine an area of fish activity, which is usually at the upwind end or very top of the reef, consider anchoring. Continue casting cranks, or switch to a lighted slip bobber, small jig or hook, a couple of splitshot on the line, and bait the rig with a leech. Cast partway to the key spot, and let the wind drift the bait up and over it. Big boulders are key spots that attract walleyes shallow at night.
Large rock shoals Large rock reefs have more room to check and for fish to roam than small reefs. Try longline trolling minnow imitator crankbaits, like size 13 rainbow trout pattern Original Rapala Minnows, across their tops and along their edges. Walleyes typically relate to the highest crests or biggest boulders after dark.To make your baits run a touch deeper, add a split shot or two to the line ahead of the lure. Your lures don’t need to touch bottom at the shallowest crests of the shoal, but they should be relatively close.This is the No. 1 fall trophy walleye pattern on Mille Lacs Lake. Photos provided by Dave Csanda
Bay mouths The mouths of shallow bays draw walleyes in spring and fall. In fall, fish move in and out of the bay at night to feed on frogs and salamanders that are returning to the shallows from the adjacent swamp. Cast free-swimming minnow imitators, or swim grubs or shad baits on jigheads. Intercept passing fish at the bay mouth, casting from shore, wading or fishing from a boat. Proceed to the back marshy shoreline and cast the area from a boat; the bottom is probably too soft for wading.
Creek mouths Inflowing creeks and creek mouths are universal fish attractors for baitfish and walleyes. Fish may move into the creek itself, or linger around the mouth. Chances are the area may have firm enough bottom to wade. Fish from shore, wade or from a boat, using minnow imitators or jigs tipped with softbaits. Creek mouths, like shoreline points, are distinct areas that draw fish to you, concentrating them in limited areas where shorecasting is effective. In broader areas lacking features to concentrate fish, you’re usually better off fishing from a boat, allowing you to cover more water.
Narrows Narrows sections between two bodies of water are great places to find shallow walleyes at night, particularly on the down-current entrance to the narrows. Cast from shore, wade or from a boat, or longline troll the general down-current entrance. Current attracts walleyes! Note, however, that current can reverse direction through narrows due to changes in wind direction, stacking water against one end and pushing it out the other. React accordingly. Walleyes do!
D A V E C S A N D A is a veteran outdoor communicator/TV co-host who works at Lindner’s Angling Edge Television in Baxter. He is also president of the Brainerd Lakes Area Chapter of Let’s Go Fishing (www.lgfwsbrainerdarea.com), a Minnesota-based non-profit volunteer organization that takes seniors, youths and veterans fishing for free.
TACKLE TIPS Rods, Reels and Line Use long, 7- to 7 1/2-foot, medium power, medium action spinning rods to enhance casting distance, hooksetting and control. Use premium, soft monofilament line like Sufix Elite, generally around 10-pound-test. Superlines allow you to cast farther, but you don’t want to try to removing superline knots and tangles in the dark.
Lures Floating-diving balsa minnows like the Original Rapala Minnow, size 11 or 13, for longline trolling in the shallows. Suspending minnows like a Rapala Husky Jerk size 12 or 14, Smithwick Rogue or Storm Suspending ThunderStick, for casting or trolling. Use shallow-running and deep-diving versions, as needed. Shad crankbaits like Rapala Shad Raps (balsa) size 7 or 8, or Glass Shad Raps (plastic-bodied) size 7. Balsa is stealthier for spooky fish on calm, moonlit nights, and works well in extremely shallow water. Plastic-bodied baits are noisier for windy or darker nights when shallow fish are more aggressive. Coundown Rapalas, size 9 or 11, for casting into strong winds, and for sinking applications. Allow the bait to sink as deep as needed before starting your retrieve. Assorted 1/4-ounce jigheads, such as VMC Neon Moon Eye Jigs, with large hooks that accommodate softbaits. The collar should have either a wire keeper or lead barbs to secure softbaits in place. Assorted 3 1/2- to 4-inch softbaits like grubs and shad tails, dressed on jigheads. Trigger X Walleye Formula 3 1/2-inch Paddle Tail Minnow, Berkley Power Bait 4” Power Grub rigged tailup for smooth swimming retrieves. Lighted slip bobbers, split shot, hooks or small 1/32-ounce jigs for anchoring and casting to shallow reefs, or for casting offshore. Spinner-crawler harnesses for trolling over weed tops (mostly a summer tactic, with occasional fall applications). In all cases, you needn’t bump cover or bottom to catch shallow walleyes at night, since they willingly strike free-running lures in the shallows. Use steady swimming retrieves most of the time.With neutral-bouyancy lures, impart occasional pumppauses to your retrieve, allowing the lure to momentarily suspend in place and infuriate following walleyes into striking. Carry lures in small tackle boxes that can tuck into pockets if wading or walking. Add a couple of small snaps to facilitate lure changes without having to retie knots, and few split shot to troll shallow-running lures a bit deeper. Otherwise, anything else is optional. Keep things to a minimum so you don’t have to carry it or trip over it.
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Test Your Walleye IQ T E S T I N G Y O U R F I S H I Q C A N B E F U N , informative, and useful when it comes to outsmarting your favorite species. The more you know, the better informed you’ll be when you’re trying to track down a trophy or a meal. We’re reminded of Joe Friday on “Dragnet.” If you’re old enough to remember that early television classic. Just the facts, ma’am.
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Photos provided by Ted Takasaki
Where and when do walleyes spawn?
Do walleyes rely only on sight?
Regardless of the body of water that walleyes inhabit, they spawn in temperatures around 42 to 54 degrees in shallow water on gravel or hard bottom. They need flowing water to provide oxygen to the eggs and to keep silt from smothering them. There is a theory that walleyes evolved within river systems. When available, they will return to rivers and creeks to spawn. They will also spawn on rocky, mid lake humps.
No way. They have extremely well developed lateral lines and sensors which permit them to sense prey many feet away. They can actually single out a baitfish swimming erratically from the rest of the school. They can feed 50 feet down in murky water.
How many eggs does a mature female walleye lay? This was a recent question put to us and we had to look up the answer ourselves. Female walleyes lay approximately 50,000 to 60,000 eggs per kilogram, or 2.2 pounds, of body weight. Do the math. A 5 pound fish can lay 300,000 eggs! A 10-pound fish can produce over a half a million. Walleyes are broadcast spawners. Parents abandon their offspring and provide no protection for the young, which are born into a harsh eat-or-be-eaten world. Of the eggs laid, only about 5 to 20 percent actually hatch. Only one of every 10,000 of those will survive. It’s easy to see why releasing those pre-spawn females is important.
Walleyes eat mostly other fish, right? The answer to that is yes, and no. Walleyes are opportunistic, which means that they will eat what’s available. Walleyes start off by eating plankton during their early days, shift to insects, and later to other fish. Even adult fish eat insects when they are handy. Shiners, perch and other small fish can be the primary forage depending on the body of water and the time of year.
Are rainstorms a good thing when it comes to walleye fishing success? Again, yes, and no. Cloud cover and wind favor active feeding because of reduced light penetration and low pressure which frees fish of all kinds to be more active. But scientists believe walleyes are especially sensitive to lightning and thunder, which can turn them off. Stable weather is often good because walleyes will turn to predictable feeding patterns and stay in the same locations for a while.
What is the walleye’s preferred temperature range? Does moon phase matter? Walleyes have a reputation for liking cool water. We suspect that’s based on the spawning temperature. But scientists say walleyes like 60 to 70 degrees, and some say they’re most active at 73 degrees. It’s a key bit of information to know since water temperature is the single most important determining factor on where walleyes will be. Remember this motto from our friend, walleye pro Jason Przekurat. “North, south, outside, in.” This means that walleyes are active on the north side of lakes first where water warms first. They then spread to the south around the rim. As water continues to warm, they head towards deeper water and mid-lake structures when available. As fall approaches, the migration is reversed.
So how good are their eyes really? Walleyes have eyes more light sensitive than humans. This explains why they’re most active in twilight or after dark when they see well but their prey can’t. It also explains why walleyes can be found very deep in clear water or in cover, such as weeds, or on the windy side of a lake, or on a reef where waves cut light penetration. Yellow perch, which are closely related to walleyes, lack the same eye construction so they are often a walleye’s preferred meal. Walleyes also see shades of color, mostly yellow, green, and orange. They are rumored to be blind to colors like blue. But remember, water clarity and depth affect the actual color they can see so what they react to best will vary with conditions from day to day. We’ve seen situations when blue can be the preferred color over everything else.
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The answer to that question depends on who is asked. We couldn’t find a scientific study on the topic, but when fishermen are asked, they all seem to have an opinion. The conclusion is… Just as many big walleyes are caught during each moon phases, new, first quarter, full and last quarter.
What tactics are best to catch walleyes? Thousands of articles and books are written about this topic. It can be confusing. But there is an easy way to think about this. Ask yourself but one question: what technique will show a lure to the most walleyes in the least time? That is the name of the game after all. The more walleyes that see your live bait or lure, the higher the odds are that one will take what you are offering. Are the fish stacked on a mid-lake humpt in a small area? Then target them with jigs, a Lindy Rig, or a slip bobber. Are they spread over a huge area like you’ll find in spots like Lake Erie’s Western Basin? Then troll lures or spinners. Start at the upper end of the trolling speed right for what bait you are using and slow down if you have to. With crankbaits, your speed should be about 1.5 mph up to 2.8 mph. Spinners work best down from 0.8 mph up to 1.7 mph. Did you “ace” the course? A good grade translates to you having a better chance to put walleyes in your boat.
T a k a s a ki
T E D T A K A S A K I is one of the country’s top pro walleye fisherman and a former PWT champion. Not only has Ted won many fishing tournaments, he is the CEO of Lindy Little Joe, Inc. maker of fine fishing products.
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Expect to find late-season ruffed grouse in hazel brush where the birds eat the catkins.
Five Hotspots For
RUFFED GROUSE which were good. R U F F E D G R O U S E D R U M M I N G C O U N T S conductFollowing are five hotspots in which to look for ruffed ed this spring were up slightly in some areas of the state grouse. and down slightly in other areas. “The grouse population is probably still near the high Gray dogwood thickets: end of the 10-year cycle beThroughout most of the cause drumming counts this forested regions of Minnespring were between the sota, the favorite fall food of values observed during 2009 ruffed grouse is the fruit of and 2010,� said Mike Larson, gray dogwood.This head-high DNR research scientist and shrub produces small, white grouse biologist. berries on red stems. Ruffs When the ]ruffed grouse find the fruit irresistible. hunting season gets underGray dogwood grows in way on Sept. 17, hunters damp areas and is prevalent tromping the aspen forests in the transition zone where amid a kaleidoscope of colalder lowlands rise and meet orful foliage should expect an aspen forest. Also look for grouse numbers to be simigray dogwood along creeks, A good hunting dog can help a hunter locate lar to the past two seasons, especially those with an open grouse both before and after the shot.
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canopy. Ruffed grouse may be found feeding on dogwood fruit throughout the day, but the best time to hunt is during late afternoon, since grouse will fill their crops before going to roost. Woodcock can also be found in and around gray dogwood.The clean forest floor under thick dogwood clumps of gray dogwood allows woodcock to easily walk about during their search for earthworms. By mid-October most of the gray dogwood fruit will have been consumed by grouse and a variety of other birds such as robins and waxwings. Then ruffed grouse will concentrate around other food sources.
grouse habitat. But during times of high grouse populations don’t discount logging roads that run through mature forests. Often, those roads provide the only “edge” within an old stand of timber, and thus will attract grouse.
Logging roads: Many plant species on which ruffed grouse forage are sun-loving plants. Logging roads create openings in the forest which allow certain plant species to prosper that would otherwise be unable to compete. Dogwood, chokecherry, hazel and other grouse favorites grow along logging roads. Grouse are also attracted to logging roads because many have been planted with clover, another favorite grouse food. Also, ruffs can gather gravel for their crops, and take a dust bath on logging roads. Old logging roads can The best trails are, provide a grouse hunter with of course, those that opportunities, especially late pass through ideal in the day.
Photos provided by Bill Marchel
This is ideal ruffed grouse habitat. In the foreground is an aspen clear-cut and in the background is a mature aspen forest.
Ten- to 15-year-old aspen clearcuts: If there is such a thing as a classic ruffed grouse covert, it would have to include an area that was logged a decade or so ago. If the area also has mature aspens and alder lowlands nearby, so much the better. The late Gordon Gullion, a ruffed grouse expert, claimed that ruffs preferred the clearcuts as brood rearing cover. His theory was that the stem density of regenerated aspen, and the resulting overhead canopy, provided protection against predators. Whatever the reason, decade-old clearcuts do hold grouse. Small openings in the clearcut - like log landings and natural meadows - that allow sunlight to reach shrubs such as hazel and dogwood make a good spot even better.Ten year-old clearcuts are also good areas to find woodcock, especially during early and midOctober when the birds are migrating through Minnesota.
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One-year-old aspen clearcuts:
Hazel thickets during late season:
These areas are sleepers.To the uninformed, a 1-year-old cut is just a tangle of waist to chest high aspen stems. Some hunters call the springy aspen stems buggy whips. Most hunters make a mental note to hunt a recent clear-cut a few years later, after it has grown a bit. That’s a mistake. The leaves of one year-old aspen stay green and remain on the stem longer than other leaves. By mid to late October, those leaves may be the only green vegetation above the ground. Grouse find them irresistible. They’ll often stuff their crops full of the green leaves. Hunt the edges of these clearcuts, but don’t be afraid to work the middle of the cut. You may find birds far from protective cover, and have a rare chance at flushing grouse in the relative open. Late afternoon is best, same as when hunting any food source.
December hunts for ruffed grouse bear little resemblance to October jaunts. For sure, the uplands are sterile of woodcock, the cold and snow having chased the fistsized birds south nearly two months prior. The dogwood clumps so attractive to grouse in October are barren of fruit, and mostly barren of grouse, too. When winter descends upon the forest, many hunters have trouble finding grouse. Since the fruits and greens favored by ruffs have all but disappeared by then, the birds have relocated to areas with abundant food. Grouse will pick away at a variety of edibles, but the catkins of hazel are their favorite early winter food. Grouse prefer the large catkins on hazel growing in areas exposed to the sun over the smaller catkins found in shaded spots. Therefore, look for the best hazel thickets to be in open areas and on edges. Overgrown cattle pastures are almost always good, especially when close to typical aspen cover. Remember, grouse will be grouped around available food, so it may take a bit of walking to find them. Tracks in the snow will help you locate the birds. It is usually to your advantage to hunt at a fast pace until tracks indicate a group of grouse has been feeding in the area, and then slow down and hunt the territory thoroughly. Make note of these spots because they will often be productive year after year. Other late-season foods preferred by grouse are the catkins of ironwood and birch. As noted earlier, Minnesota’s ruffed grouse population is at or near its 10-year high. Now is the time to get out and enjoy a hunt for the king of the uplands.
B I L L M A R C H E L is a wildlife and outdoors photographer and writer who lives near Fort Ripley. His work has appeared in many regional and national publications and he writes a monthly column for the Brainerd Dispatch. He can be reached at bill@billmarchel.com
Ruffed grouse prefer edge habitat where sunlight is allowed to penetrate the forest canopy allowing preferable foods like dogwood and hazel to grow.
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Ruffed grouse come in two different color phases, the red phase and the gray phase. As you can see here each color phase also has unique, slight tone variations.
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Photos provided by Bill Marchel
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A COOL NORTHWEST WIND COMES OFF THE RIDGE
and a silhouette comes into view… a red-tailed Hawk. You can see this bird and many others at Hawk Ridge Nature Preserve, located along skyline drive in Duluth. Hawk Ridge sits high above Duluth with beautiful panoramic views of Lake Superior. Hawk Ridge is also an IBA (Important Bird Area) and one of the best hawk-watching sites in the country. During the early 1900s hawks were used for target practice. Many were innocently killed here and elsewhere in the country simply for fun. After nearly 50 years of illegal shooting that took place within the city limits of Duluth, these actions were halted in 1951 as the Duluth Bird Club (now known as the Duluth Audubon Society) was organized. Soon after, the number of migrating birds steadily increased. They were counted for just a few days during September, increasing to daily counts that started in 1972. The operation of a banding station was also started that year. This operation now leads the nation in total number of birds captured and banded. The first naturalist program was started in 1974 following a friends group of Hawk Ridge to support its education programs and research. Raptor Ridge might be more accurate since all raptors, such as hawks, owls, eagles and falcons use the ridge each year during the migration. What attracts nearly 100,000 raptors to Duluth’s Hawk Ridge each fall? The migration is an ongoing relationship between topography, geology and weather. Duluth’s topography is dominated by steep hills that climb up from Lake Superior with an average of over 1,000 feet of elevation using the two airports. Lake Superior and the surrounding area play a major role in creating this migration corridor (Sawtooth Mountains) known as Hawk Ridge. As the migration continues south, food and shelter are extremely important. The great size of Lake Superior prevents the migrating raptors from finding food and shelter, which funnels the birds to the ridgeline in great numbers.
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The northshore geology is ancient and complex with one billion years of formations caused by fire and ice. Duluth lies atop a mid-continent rift that erupted with molten basalt and flowed for 22 million years. This basalt flow was 10 miles deep and, over time, sunk when cooled to form what is now the Lake Superior basin. During the last ice age a number of glaciers carved and scoured the basin creating the present day shoreline. The glacial ice then receded and melted, filling the basin and creating what we now know as Lake Superior. The lake remains one of the coldest and deepest lakes in the world! The weather in Duluth can change very fast and without warning. The size of Lake Superior greatly influences the local weather, creating thick fog and lake-effect snow. It’s always a good idea to check the weather before visiting Hawk Ridge and Duluth. A good flight day is when the wind comes from the northwest providing a tailwind for the migrating birds. All other wind directions are generally poor with little or no activity. A day with a northwest wind can produce several hundred to several thousand birds in a matter of hours. In bad weather such as rain, snow and poor visibility created by fog, the bird migration slows or stops until the weather improves. The best times to view the birds are between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., depending upon the weather of course. Since 1972 Hawk Ridge has successfully captured and banded 23 species of raptors totaling 93,625 individuals. The banding station operates from mid-August through late November with an average of 3,000 raptors each fall. The banding station is staffed 24 hours a day to capture both diurnal (day) raptors such as hawks and eagles and nocturnal (night) raptors such as owls. Very little was known about owl migration until Hawk Ridge banded 1,402 Saw-whet Owls in 1995. Hawk Ridge offers banding station tours in September and October for its $100.00 members and for anyone who participates in the adopt-a-raptor program at the $100.00 level. If you choose to adopt they Photos provided by Judd Brink
will send you a certificate of adoption, color photo, fact sheet and most importantly notification of your bird when recovered. This is a unique opportunity for the public too witness how the birds are captured and banded. Banding data helps us to understand population trends, migration seasons and ecology as well as providing educational resources. Why do birds migrate? Migration is the movement to find a food source. For birds their food source could be seasonal or availability. Most of the raptors that are moving southward are long distance migrants with some spending the winter in Central and South America. With years of banding data and newer gps devices we know how far our raptors are traveling. A group of raptors, owls are mostly short distance migrants only moving as far as the next food supply. Minnesota’s smallest owl is the Sawwhet standing 8 inches tall and weighing only 5 ounces with a diet of mice or voles. For example for every 50 miles traveled the snow depth decreased by 6 inches it would be beneficial to migrate to obtain the same food in more suitable conditions. Birds have very interesting migration patterns with some birds having reverse paths during the spring and fall. The spring migration is very scattered and extends over a longer period of time in contrast with the fall migration that is much more predictable and concentrated. During the early morning hours the sun starts to warm the ridge and the heat rises to create thermals of warm air. The migrating raptors use these thermals and updrafts to help them glide and soar above the people watching them. Larger birds such as eagles and vultures take full advantage using their large wings to “ride” the wind effortlessly. The smaller raptors need to expel some energy but the tailwind does make the job easier for them but they also move much faster. The peak raptor migration starts in mid September with Broad-winged, Sharp-shinned and Cooper Hawks. Later in the fall, October through November, the larger birds such as Eagles, Goshawks and Rough-legged Hawks can be seen. During the peak season several thousand birds can be seen in a single day with Broad-wing Hawks being the most abundant in the sky. For example, the record daily high for Broad-winged Hawk
Data provided by Hawk Ridge
is 101, 716 on Sept. 15, 2003. A large group of soaring raptors is known as a “kettle” and can contain hundreds to thousands of birds. I have witnessed several Kettles and it is quite amazing. Several Hawk Ridge staff (counters/banders) and volunteers start their annual duties in August and finish in December. Volunteers are mostly available on weekends to help you with the identification and education of migrating birds. The volunteers also bring down newly banded birds from the banding station for their adopt-araptor program and for other groups like schools. Hawk Ridge is 2 1/2-hour drive from the Brainerd lakes area and is the best fall raptor watching site in Minnesota. The view of Lake Superior atop Hawk Ridge during the peak migration and fall color season is definitely worth it, even though a little planning is recommended. A few things to take with you are a good pair of binoculars, warm clothing, rain/ wind gear, folding chair and a snack. Again, the most important thing is to check the weather because it is more extreme atop Hawk Ridge and Northwest winds are best for viewing the birds. I have personally made over 30 trips in my 20-plus years of visiting Hawk Ridge and it is fun for all ages. Hawk Ridge is hosting its annual ‘Hawk Weekend Festival’ Sept. 16, 17, and 18 of 2011. This year’s festival includes events, programs, birding classes, banding and of course hawk watching. It is a great opportunity to learn more about migrating raptors and get tips from the experts on how to identify them in flight. This event is very popular, so it’s best to call or go online to make reservations in advance as space is limited for local hotels and the banding station. For more information about this weekend or reserving time at the banding station you can visit Hawkridge.org. J U D D B R I N K is the owner of MN Backyard
Birds offering birdscaping packages using bird feeding stations for your enjoyment. We install and maintain bird feeding stations for commercial and residential customers in the Brainerd Lakes Area. Judd also leads bird-guided walks and tours in the area. He can be contacted at jb@mnbackyardbirds.com
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Fall is Big Pike Time!
QUESTION: AFTER A SUMMER OF HOT WEATHER AND EVEN HOTTER WATER, WHAT HAPPENS IN THE NORTHERN PIKE FISHING WORLD AS NATURE COOLS DOWN FROM LABOR DAY TO ICE-UP?
Answer: Pike action heats up! There are many options to the “whereto-go” question. In the Brainerd lakes area. ome of the better big-pike lakes are Mille Lacs, Whitefish, Gull, Mitchell and a handful of medium-sized lakes and mine pits. Yes, some 40-inch class fish lurk in other waterways, but they’re rare. In fact, pike over 40 inches long are rare in most places. To grow to trophysize proportions, big pike need deep water, minimal competition, good food and a desire by anglers to release medium size pike of 28 to 36 inches. Many area lakes are populated with numbers of hammer-handle pike due to great spawning habitat. Each year, thousands of new eating machines enter the system. Lakes with this situation produce quantities of pike, but quality is almost non-existent. Food, if it includes ciscoes, tullibees and similar delicacies, really porks-up pike.
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That’s why big, deep lakes get the nod locally and across the pike’s range for giants. Fall is the time for big pike. They become more accessible as they cruise shallower. Consider this time a shopping spree as pike search out new restaurants. Recommendations for big pike locations follow: Early September: Use electronics to check the deep flats out to 30 to 40 feet. Big pike often hold together, and it’s not unusual to spot several big fish on the screen at one time. Once spotted at a specific depth, run that line and continue looking. Criss-cross major lake points coming off islands or main-land. Follow reefs deeper and deeper, looking for the drops into the abyss. Then, turn the boat, and aim toward the weed-edges, looking for fish that suspend at the same depth as the deepest weeds, but away from the weeds. Finally, snoop around the weed edges. Any abrupt change in the weed line direction deserves careful investigation. Where weeds run out on long points, pay close attention. October into November: Continue plugging away at the SepPhotos courtesy of Jim Kalkofen
tember pike spots until they move. Then, check edges of green coontail and cabbage weeds, and near rocky reef-tops and points. Pike are intercepting migrating bait as it seeks prime feeding (and in some cases, spawning) territory. Don’t be bashful about checking out the deep flats, because pike move frequently (and far and fast). The last weeks of season: This could be early December some years. While others are chasing walleyes, pike are feeding voraciously. There will still be some greenery left underwater, and this is the spot, no matter the depth. Mid-lake humps that top out at less than 20 feet, and grew luxuriant weeds earlier will still have some weeds standing, but most will be lying down. These areas attract bait and big pike. Main lake points and similar extensions off islands also are key. Pike anglers have favorite fall lures and baits. However, one of the mistakes is using big lures that don’t go deep enough. It’s much more preferable to reach the depths where pike live than cranking a giant bucktail only inches under the surface. The basic selection would include some cranks that dive from 10 to 25 feet deep, some jigs and plastic, some jigging spoons, and some suspending glide baits. Crankbaits could be deep-diving Rapalas, in shad or minnow styles, that can be easily cast with heavier spinning tackle or casting gear. Non-stretch FireLine is recommended to rip off weeds or set hooks. Some larger cranks demand heavy action casting gear, but are very effective. Heavy spinnerbaits like the 1-ounce Northland Bionic model will run 15 feet deep on heavy line while trolling weed lines, which is something to do while warming up in the boat. Stick the rod in the rod holder, and patrol the weed edges. The most overlooked giant pike lure is a jig and chunk of plastic. Jigs should be about 3/8ths of an ounce to an ounce. Go heavier as water depth and wind increases. The jig allows the angler to remain in contact with the bottom. A jig with a stout hook (bass-style flipping jigs with weed guards are recommended) is important. The plastic can be from six inches to 10 inches long, and the large bass worms with curly tails perform well. Experiment with color. Pop, drag, pause, jump the jig - find out the daily trigger. Even fish it into the weeds, expecting a strike as it hops into the open. Glide baits will catch walleyes, bass and pike this time of year, with the number one lure being the number 14 Husky Jerk. It won’t run more than a few feet under the surface, and is perfect when fishing water less than 10-feet deep and over or alongside weeds. Muskie anglers like Gramma baits, Reef Haw-
gs, Suicks, etc., and they also work well. They require much heavier gear, but call up some monster pike. These shallowrunning lures are snapped forward with the rod tip, paused while slack line is being taken up, and then snapped forward once again. Jigging spoons are another weapon during this season. These are one-half to one-ounce heavy-metal models that cast long distances. After they settle, pump them up about 3 or 4 feet, and let them drop to the bottom again on a tight line. Pike hit as the spoon is falling, and even monsters register only a slight tick in the line. That’s the time to set the hook - hard! This is also a weedline trick that triggers fish. Standby for big walleyes and bass while jigging a spoon. There could be dozens of final reminders about fall fishing for big pike, but in this issue, two will do. First, always use a wire leader. If in doubt, tie your own with Tyger wire or Cortland Critter wire. These brands of steel can be tied by hand. For jigs and spoons, tie direct with a swivel on the other end of the homemade leader. A snap for crank and glide baits will allow more experimenting with colors. The final reminder; Release big pike. The giants are females. Let them grow and spawn. Let someone else catch them. OK, one more reminder:Take a camera to record the action and success when fishing big pike this fall.
J I M K A L K O F E N has been in and around
boats all his life. He has been director of the largest walleye tournament circuits for two decades, and was inducted into the National Freshwater Fishing Hall of Fame.
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Fall Muskie Fishing in the Brainerd Lakes Area The author shows that there are truly big fish in the Brainerd lakes area and fall is the best time to get a grip on one of them. T H E N I G H T S A R E G E T T I N G C O L D E R , the evenings come sooner. Frost is on the ground in the morning and fishermen everywhere are putting away their stuff and picking up the shotgun or the bow. Fishing season is winding down in October. Yet this is the time when a muskie angler’s heart starts to beat a little faster. He’s putting new line on his reels, going over maps, and sharpening hooks. The muskie angler knows well that the days and nights of autumn represent some of the best opportunities of the year to boat a truly giant fish. Muskies put on the feedbag in the fall.They like big meals and big meals are abundant at this time of the year. Unlike northern pike, muskies feed very little under the ice, and they must put on a lot of weight before the ice covers the lakes in order to make it through the winter in good condition. For this reason, serious muskie anglers love fall fishing. The Brainerd area is blessed with some great waters to take advantage of fall fishing for muskies. From small lakes, like Alexander and Shamineau, to the Mississippi River and the unique opportunities it presents, to the sprawling Mille Lacs which is a world-class fishery that attracts muskie hunters from all over North America. It’s a bit of a stretch to say that Baby and Manlakes are in the Brainerd area, since they are eight miles east of Hackensack, which is a long hour away. But I include them in this discussion because they are definitely worth a day-trip. So where does a muskie angler start if he wants to capitalize on this fantastic fall fishing? Here are some pointers to get you headed in the right direction.
Alexander and Shamineau These two lakes are located south of Pillager and Motley, and represent two of the most common destinations for Brainerd area muskie anglers. They are quality fisheries with fish of all sizes. A handful of 50-inchers come out of these lakes each year, and either of them have the potential to produce a 40-pound fish in the fall. It would be difficult to find anyone who fishes them harder than Ryan Severson. Ryan is a member of the Brainerd Lakes Chapter of Muskies, Inc., and he is well-known for his savvy on these two lakes. His name is at or near the top of the contest for numbers and size
of fish caught every year. He has a few suggestions that will shorten the learning curve for anyone headed to these lakes in the fall. “The bigger the structure the bigger the fish,” he says.“In the fall I look for good feeding area with weeds that are close to deep water. If you see baitfish on your depthfinder, that’s where the muskies will be.” Severson also looks for schools of baitfish that are relating to the deep weed edges. These two lakes are clear, and there can be weeds in 15 feet or deeper, and the muskies relate to those edges. He fishes them with “Creature Baits” like the Bulldawg or Medussa, but in the fall, a sucker rigged on a quick-strike rig can be very effective.And he likes big suckers.“I like a 20-inch sucker to target large fish,” he says. “Big bait — big fish!” Large schools of bait out in the main part of the lake away from any structure can have muskies around them too. Severson says that trolling through these pods of bait can be very effective in the fall. “These fish can be in 30 feet of water. In the fall, I look for them in the main basin of the lake.”
Mississippi River Interestingly, the river running through Brainerd can produce some trophy muskies, and the last three months of the year is the best time to target them. Typically in the fall, the river drops as the frost starts to steal the runoff from feeder streams, and low fall rainfall can bring the river down to its lowest levels of the year.That concentrates some outsized fish in some very predictable spots: deep holes.There are a handful of anglers in the area who have found some spots that are annual gold mines for big muskies. It would be a bit much to expect these students of the river to give up their precise locations, but here are a few starting points that might help you find your own gold. Outside bends in the river often have deep water.Areas below riffles can be deeper too, as can narrow, necked-down areas. Those are your starting points. Once you find a spot that is deeper than the water around it, there are specific spots in that hole that are the most likely to hold the active fish. Actively feeding fish tend to be at the upstream end of the hole, looking for a meal to come along. But the fish lounging in the deepest section of the hole may be vulnerable to a properly placed lure too. These places are good spots to troll deep-diving crankbaits or drift a sucker. It’s a good practice to hold the boat off the spot and cast to the areas where the active fish might be located, and then troll the entire area before moving on to the next hole.
Mille Lacs
Tim Anderson of Big Fish Hunt Guide Service has been taking Rocks are often clients to big fall muskies on Mille Lacs for years. “It’s all about the the key to finding rocks,” he says. “When the ciscoes come up to spawn on the rock muskies in the fall.
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reefs, the big fish follow.” These are big muskies that don’t see many is still green. Brown, decaying weed doesn’t attract the bait, so the lures because they spend the majority of their season out away from muskies won’t be there. Perch are a significant forage on Baby Lake, so lures that imitate structure following the schools of baitfish. But in the fall, when the perch are a good first option. Second bait comes shallow, they are vulnerable would be baits that imitate bluegills or to the angler who is willing to bundle rock bass.There are ciscoes in Baby too, up against the cold, and get out of the so don’t overlook the open-water baitbox a little. “This starts late in October fish option Severson talked about for and runs through November. And it’s Alexander and Shamineau. the best at night.” Man Lake is difficult to access so Ciscoes spawn especially heavy it doesn’t get much fishing pressure. during the full moon. The big muskies There is no public access on this 491cruise the area looking for what looks acre lake, but with a small boat (and like an easy one that has been injured I do mean small) you can follow the or sick. That’s what your bait should channel on the east side of Baby and imitate.“Crankbaits that imitate ciscoes Dawson Barringer with a fine muskie that sneak under the low bridge into Man. are good, and some of these fish are is representative of Baby Lake. You won’t get your bass boat or even caught on blades: Large bucktails and even spinnerbaits.” Heavier bucktails like the 3.5-ounce Muskie Mav- your 16-foot Lund in there, but if you are able to squeeze through, you erick will fish down to six or eight feet, which puts them in the fish will probably be the only muskie angler on the lake. There are a limited number of spots on this lake that hold fish in zone. Bulldawgs fished around the deep edges of the reefs will contact more fish during the day. Jerkbaits and glide baits will work well the fall.There are two humps and three points that drop steeply into on the rocks during the day.Topwaters even catch some fish at night. deep water, and those are the primary spots for fall fishing. Muskies “This is not a numbers thing,” Anderson said. “You might fish for often hold over deep water off the edges of the spots during the day two days to get one fish, but it is going to be a big one; at least a really and then move onto the spots in the evening. Look for wads of bait fat one!” Or you might find yourself in the right place at the right time on your depthfinder and fish through them with a crankbait, or fish and get three in one day.There are truly world class fish in Mille Lacs, under the bait balls with a tube jig like Lindy’s Tiger Tube or Red and the fall is the single best time to get your picture taken with one. October bait. Once again, this is not a numbers game but there are a No one with experience on this body of water would disagree that handful of large fish in this lake. Fall fishing is not for everyone. Especially when you may only see there are state record muskies alive right now in Mille Lacs, and very possibly a world record. 40-pounders are caught and released every a few fish a day, and a good day is when you actually catch one. Late November. And this destination fishery that attracts muskie hunters fall is one of the best times of the year to put your hands on a truly remarkable fish that few anglers every see.There are 40-pound muskies all over is only 30 minutes from Brainerd. in the Brainerd area, but of course you have to be out there to get one. Baby and Man lakes You won’t find any state record muskies in Baby or Man lakes, but Ryan Severson has some good advice for people who really want to you will find better numbers than just about any other lake in Central learn to fish these lakes for fall muskies:“The best way to learn how Minnesota. A 40-incher is a big fish out of Baby Lake, but there are to do this is to spend more time on the water.” To learn more about muskie fishing in the Brainerd area, get ingood numbers of fish in the 30- to 40-inch range. Man Lake offers a volved in the Brainerd Lakes Chapter of Muskies, Inc. www.brainerdbigger average size, but fewer fish. Baby Lake is 737 acres of great muskie habitat. It has shallow, muskies.com 218-821-3669. B E R N I E B A R R I N G E R is a free-lance weedy areas and steeply dropping break-lines. In the fall, muskies can writer living near Pine River. He divides his be brought to the net by trolling these breaklines or fishing the deep time between hunting muskies and hunting edges of the weeds with large tube jigs, deep diving crankbaits or big game with a bow across North America. small Bulldawgs. Some of the bays hold good pondweed, and right You can view his website at www.bowhuntingroad.com. up until ice-up muskies will occasionally be found in that weed if it
Photos courtesy of Bernie Barringer
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The T Th he G Great Gr reeaat at M Mi Minnesota in inn nn neesso otta F Fo Forest orreesstt F Fire iirre o off 1 1910 91 9 10
The Great Minnesota Forest Fire of 1910
I PRESUME MOST EVERYONE HAS A PASSION FOR SOMETHING
or maybe several things. One of my passions started early, and 60 years later the passion is still there, deer hunting in Minnesota. Our camp, located north of Orr, is still going strong. I have pictures from 1918 to the present. We now have three generations using the camp. Another passion I have enjoyed is the Baudette-Lake-of-theWoods area and all it has to offer. It could be because I caught my first fish, a five-pound Northern at the age of 5 and a 25-pound Northern a few years ago. My home area consists of the Brainerd lakes area, Hackensack, Longville and Leech Lake. When we moved here 43 years ago from southern Minnesota/northern Iowa, we were told that this area was a “little bit of Heaven.”We still believe that today! Now as Paul Harvey said, to “The Rest of the Story.”This is my latest passion. It started the first week of October 2010. The curator of the Lake-of-the-Woods Historical Society at Bau-
dette invited me to be the keynote speaker at the one-hundred year anniversary commemoration of the Great Minnesota Forest Fire of 1910. The commemoration was held Oct. 7-10, 2010, in Baudette. My question to the lady was “Why me?” She informed me that my father, who was 10 years old at the time of the fire, had the second most accurate account of more than 25 people who had written stories or given interview many years earlier. After visiting with me, Marlys Hurst, the curator, felt I shared my father’s passion for the fire. At a very early age, I remember hearing the stories about “the fire.” They intrigued me. I had heard them over and over, but every time it felt like they were new! My grandfather would never talk about it as he had seen too much after the fire. My information all came from my father, my visits to the historical society, and reading fire documentation.The guide for these stories was a book written after the fire by a twenty-two year old school teacher. Her book is on display at the museum today. More than 100 years ago in the fall of 1910, an immense forest fire raged savagely across the landscape of Minnesota’s northern border. This flaming inferno swept up entire towns, consumed forests, blackened the countryside and claimed the lives of those
Baudette and Spooner before the fire.
Remains of Baudette and Spooner after the fire of October 7, 1910.
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who could not escape its fury. The area had no rain during the entire year, and with 80 mph winds, many people could not escape. Loss of life could not be numbered because of the many homesteaders that could not be accounted for in the three thousand plus acres that were destroyed. The city of Baudette had approximately forty-seven people that died. My family’s home was two blocks from the Baudette River. The kids played in the river all summer, but because of the lack of rain, the river was very low. There was grassy sod hanging over the water. It was under one of these sod overhangs that the family huddled and waited out the fire.They probably would not have survived otherwise. Later, word got around of the survival stories. One small white Funeral Service for fire victims burried in this mass grave at Baudette Cemetery, October 12, 1910. house on the edge of town was left standing in the midst of a green lawn, an oasis in the middle of disaster and ruin. A saintly, little white-haired lady had prayed through the night, and she and her property were unharmed. More than one-hundred people had gathered there to rest until daybreak. After the fire, my grandfather, the main contractor in the area, was already at the train depot to catch the next train to Dodge County, but the people begged him to stay and help rebuild the Congregational church in the spring. All the efforts of building were on homes, businesses and schools, as winter would close in on them shortly. Remember, there was nothing left after the fire. The good news was two lumber mills were spared from the fire so they were up and running shortly after the fire even though a Same site 100 years later at the 100 year large amount of logs were destroyed. One of the “miracles” after the fire was the speed that build- commemoration memorial service October 10, 2010. ings were built. My grandfather built three storefront buildings that were used as temporary school buildings. When the school was built, he sold the other buildings to local merchants. Six days after the fire, Grandpa had a small house built on the back of their lot. He had 20 men on his construction crew with no place to eat or sleep. He built a bunkhouse for them to sleep, and Grandma fed them with the help of a hired girl. Also after the fire, there were cows, horses, pigs, chickens, cats, dogs, and people to be buried. It was still very hot there, and there were no caskets to be had so they had to dig a big trench and put the dead in rough boxes. There were 27 people buried in one trench. All communications with the outside were cut off, but in a surState marker of the mass grave. prisingly short time the Red Cross, Salvation Armyand National Guard arrived with supplies. My dad remembered Governor Eberhart standing in a boxcar handing out clothing to people. My grandfather received a sheepskin coat, and my dad and his brothers received socks. It was two and a half days before there was any food available. The Red Cross brought in the first meal consisting of ham, beans, coleslaw, potatoes, cornbread, and canned peaches.
Students and teachers standing in front of the temporary school buildings erected after the fire. Photos Courtesy of “Lake of the Woods” Historical Society
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The Rulien family had an especially touching story. Of the 12 members in the family, all but the oldest three, who were out of town, perished in the fire. Edward Rulien tried to get his family out, but they were overtaken by the fire. Right before they perished, a neighbor, who was trying to help them, heard one of the young girls tell her sister,“If we must go, we’ll go to God.” So confident was their child-like faith that even in the shadow of death this sweet assurance was dear to them.They had obviously been taught to trust God at a very young age. The Rulien family was very close to my grandfather’s family. The four-day fire commemoration came to a close on Oct. 10 at the Baudette Cemetery. It was held overlooking the mass grave where many were buried. It was a moving day I will never forget. As I sit on my deck this beautiful, breezy afternoon and listen to the birds singing in the green trees, watch the animals scamper over my green lawn, and enjoy the beautiful flower garden, it hardly seems possible that a fire like that happened.The saddest part is that it didn’t need to happen. The courts had ruled that the railway companies had to screen the smokestacks on their locomotives.They hadn’t complied yet! As I do my “fire” presentation around the state, I use the title “What Did the Fire Mean to Me?” It meant that if my dad had perished in the fire, I would not be here today. There is a 148-page book available with all the stories and many pictures. If you are interested, please contact me at 218-454-3305.
The Facts: As History Has Recorded Them 1. 2. 3. 4.
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The summer of 1910 was unusually dry. By fall, the fire danger was extremely high. A spark thrown from a passing locomotive started the initial blaze near Cedar Spur on Oct. 4, 1910. A crown fire developed on Oct. 7, and fanned by gale force winds, it quickly destroyed Graceton, Pitt, Baudette and Spooner. Forty-two people are known to have perished in the blaze. Twenty-seven of the victims were buried in a mass grave at the Elm Park Cemetery. Over 300,000 acres were burned. Property damage was estimated over one million dollars. The Red Cross and National Guard were sent to restore order, assist with burials, and attend to the needs of the homeless survivors. With the two large lumber mills still intact, residents gained optimism and rebuilding began. As a direct result of the Baudette/Spooner fire, the Minnesota State Forest Service was inaugurated in 1911. It is now call the DNR Division of Forestry, and they are celebrating their 100-year anniversary this year. The fire of 1910 was a turning point in area history. Although logging would continue to be the economy for yet another ten years, settlers began looking toward agricultures as the future of the area.
D O N W A L K E R is a lifelong outdoorsman
and sporting goods salesman for wholesalers. Currently doing a presentation with powerpoint pictures of the fire of 1910. For further info call 218-454-3305.
We want your recipes! Do you have a really great Wild Game recipe you would like to share? We are taking submissions for our Go online to:
Taste of the Wild
Northwoods Cooking Traditions cookbook!
http://bit.ly/wildrecipes and fill out the recipe submission form!
Or send your recipe card to: Taste of the Wild • Nikki Lyter • 506 James Street • Brainerd, MN 56401
*Please make sure to include the following: • Title of Recipe • Prep Time (include any marinade times) • Cooking Time • Yield • Recipe Category (Appetizer • Entree • Side Dish • Other)
• Ingredients (using standard measurements)
• Instructions • Your Name (so we can credit your recipe) *Each recipe submission gets your name entered into a drawing for a free cookbook!
• Phone Number/Email (in case of questions)
• City, State you are from
The Taste of the Wild Cookbook will be available for purchase November 1, 2011 at the Brainerd Dispatch’s 130th Anniversary Celebration held at the Northland Arboretum from 4pm - 7pm. A portion of the proceeds will go to support the Northland Arboretum.
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Early Canada Goose Season Sept. 3rd - 22nd
Bear Season Sept. 1st - Oct. 16th
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Antlerless Deer and Special Hunt Lottery Deadline
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1 Fall Turkey season Oct. 1st - 30th Moose Hunt - Northeast Season Oct. 1st - 16th
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Youth Waterfowl Hunt Day
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Archery Season Sept. 17th - Dec. 31st
Pheasant Season
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Special Youth Deer Hunt
Take-a-Kid Hunting weekend
Camp Ripley archery hunt - 1st season Deer Hunt - Special Youth Deer Hunt
Camp Ripley archery hunt - 1st season Deer Hunt - Special Youth Deer Hunt
Deer Hunt - Special Youth Deer Hunt Furbearer Trapping Deer Hunt Camp Ripley archery hunt - 2nd season
Deer Hunt 30 31 Camp Ripley archery hunt 2nd season
For more information or more events, log on to:
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Your
Best Shot
Judy Syring, Elk River, MN
Judy, owner of Woodland Wonders Nature Photography, took this wonderful fall scene shot.
Send a slide or print to “Your Best Shot” Brainerd Dispatch, P.O. Box 574, Brainerd, MN 56401. Include a self-addressed stamped envelope if you want your materials returned. Do you enjoy taking photos? Do you have a favorite image of an eagle, flower, sunset, or how about your favorite hunting partner? Here’s your chance to share it with readers of “OUTDOOR Traditions.” Send it along with a two-sentence explanation as to where, why, and how it was shot. Both could be published online and in the 50,000 copies of our new quarterly magazine, “OUTDOORS Traditions.” Each issue will have an “editor’s pick” contributed photo, including a credit line of the photographer’s name and portrait if available. Deadline for the summer edition is May 16, 2011. The Dispatch will collect images quarterly (spring, summer, fall, winter). After each issue of “OUTDOOR Traditions” publishes, we will then place the images on our website.
Upload your favorite outdoors photos at http://spotted.brainerddispatch.com/ 26 Y o u r
B e s t
S h o t
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