3 minute read
The Bregenzerwald
Travelling the Bregenzerwald always means having to overcome dizzy heights to start with: from Bregenz you take the Pfänder, from the Rhine Valley the valley side which ascends 500 m, from the north you take the Sulzbergstock, from the east the Riedberg or Hochtannberg pass, from the south the Furkajoch or Faschinajoch.
Up and over is the way to go – the most impressive views are from the north and the west – and a space is revealed which, in all its diversity, is completely different to all that surrounds it, with the Bregenzerache uniting it all. Your route takes you through gorges and flat hollows – wide between the hills of the foothills of the Alps around Alberschwende and Lingenau, narrow between the mountains of the foothills of the Alps around Andelsbuch and Bezau, squeezed in between the alpine peaks of the Kanisfluh, Diedamskopf, Zitterklapfen and Widderstein around Schnepfau, Au, Schoppernau, Warth and Schröcken. This correlates with the division into the Vorderwald, Mittelwald and Hinterwald (front, central and rear regions of the Bregenzerwald) – a topographical spectrum which, right at the start of tourism, had travellers extolling the “charming landscape” as an “enclosed park” whilst at the same time shuddering at the “Siberian exile” on the wild, upper course of the Ache. A valley area of contrasts, borders, crossings.
Crossings Cross-border experiences also leave their mark on the locals – they know how to set themselves apart from outside. Yet the scarce rural areas have never been sufficient to feed the population. The locals had to get moving, cross borders, leave behind their homes and families. This took on many different forms: the nomadic existence of alpine animal husbandry (home, mountain pasture, alp → page 96), or in the form of seasonal migrant work outbound commuting or even emigration (to America in the 19th century in particular). Flexibility, ideas and self-help were essential to stave off poverty. The area was only sparsely populated for a long time: only plot names give rise to assumptions about the border between Celtic and Rhaeto-Romanic cultures. It was not until the High
View of the Kanisfluh
Middle Ages that Mehrerau Monastery in Bregenz encouraged the population of the area upwards of the Bregenzerache. From above, coming the opposite direction, you come across a second wave of population with the Walsers. The particle “Wald” (forest, wood) found in many of the names of places makes it clear how undeveloped this settlement area was for a long time. Naturally, the locals gladly take advantage of this remoteness: interesting as a hunting ground at best for the feudal rulers, extensive autonomy was allowed to develop which went down in literature as a “peasants’ republic”. It ended with the brief Bavarian occupation (1806 – 1814) as a result of the realignment of Europe by Napoleon.
Hard cheese and lace It was during this time that the region developed in the form you see today. Rational, mercantile methods gained importance in agriculture, desertedness became characteristic of the Vorderwald to the Mittelwald, production of hard cheese grew (alpine dairy → page 96)to such a sustainable extent that the first dairy farm school in the Habsburg Empire was established. The new rulers were the cheese barons who amassed staggering wealth with the products of the new form of agriculture, and textile manufacturers who supplied material produced by the textiles home industrybefore the railway provided factories in the Rhine valley with workers after 1902. Such changes were also accompanied by resistance – Franz Michael Felder, author and spokesman of the revolt, is still considered an exceptional character (Franz Michael Felder Museum → page 89) in the valley today, and which is why one’s own house and home are tenaciously clung to. New sources of income have to be continuously developed – the multitude of manual skills is proof of this.
This culture has succeeded in maintaining its vitality. Innovation and flexibility based on the acquired continue today in initiatives such as the Werkraum (→ page 82)and have turned the Bregenzerwald into a model European region.
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