Part I
Part III
Contents
Part II
The Start of Alexander McQueen Pages 6-9
Current Brand Analysis Pages 12-13
The Revamp Pages 14-55
PART I The Beginning of Alexander McQueen
You’ve got to know the rules to break them. That’s what I’m here for, to demolish the rules but to keep the tradition
- Lee Alexander McQueen
McQueen's Artisanal Quality
A
lexander McQueen’s work has and always will have a huge impact on the fashion industry, both for his radical experimentation in his designs and embodying a darker strain of Romanticism while innovating the ways in which he presented them. His deliverance is composed of a complex network of intertextualities that comprise literature, theatre, painting, music, and dance; add that with his statement made clothing and Alexander McQueen began developing his dangerous reputation.
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His choice of materials a gamut of conceivable combination’s, but with a hard edge. The natural materials used by McQueen add an unexpected element to his designs and reflected his interest in nature and later referencing these elements in his collections, Once making an entire dress out of cuttle-fish and mussel shells, and clothed models neck to ankles in a sheath of razor shells. The amount of detail and precision that goes into each of his garments are nothing short of showroom pieces. Going on to say how his clothes were not meant for the everyday person, women who wore Alexander McQueen exude power strength and the right amount of sexy. Fall 2009 ReadyTo Wear
The men he dressed were fitted to perfection with his master tailoring skills but adding a much needed change of scenery for what menswear was offering at the time. For instance, in 1997 Lee was under investigation for using human bones, teeth and other body parts in his designs, Only to later recreate that in his 2010 fall menswear collection titled “An bailitheoir cnámh,” a Gaelic phrase that means “the bone collector,” referenced bone and skin extensively but in pattern rather than actual object. McQueen explained that he had an interest in “the hard edge of technology of textiles,” which included molded leather body corsets, white lace, wooden fan skirts, and striped silk. McQueen has also been intrigued by the effect computers can create and has often used “digital mechanics for inspiration. McQueen himself might well have conceived his collections primarily as Dionysian, in that he rejected the merely pretty, the banal and the conventional, appealing instead to a set of qualities that encompasses irrationality, spontaneity, visceral reactions and the rejection of conventions. Audaciously setting a different fashion stage in England, where his outlandish fashion shows have brought energy and attention to a fairly quiet and conservative fashion market.
Fall 2010 Ready To Wear
Runway Experience Alexander McQueen was a designer whose creativity and originality were expressed through his conceptual complexity runway presentations of avant-garde installations and performing art. Like a painter or writer of the Romantic Movement; McQueen associated unfettered emotionalism with the appreciation of beauty with all his shows evoking an uneasy pleasure that merged wonder and terror with the Romantic concept of the Sublime and beyond the sublime. He had a way of engaging deeply in other philosophical abstractions of the Romantic Movement such as historicism, nationalism, and naturalism: A/W 1995: Bum’s The Word: This collection astounded many due to classic Scottish references alongside erotic pieces such as the Bumster trouser, which exposed the lower part of a womans lower back.
S/S 1999: Art Class: Models walked the open space in futuristic chiffon and origami-esque pants surrounded by two large, white machines. For the finale, Shalom Harlow spun on a platform while the two machines spray-painted her white dress.
S/S 2005: Time for a Game: In Lee's Spring 2005 collection he sent models down the runway in traditional form until they lined up as a human chessboard. Billowing floral dresses and skirts contrasted against the futuristic human game board, complete with a robot voicing commands in the background.
S/S 2010: Armadillo Crossing: McQueen’s Spring 2010 collection showcased his true talent as a one-of-a-kind visionary. His sense of color as well as proportion and print met sheer technical skill and craft through structured mini dresses and jumpsuits, as well as those unbelievable armadillo heels.
S/S RTW 1998, The Golden Shower
Lee McQueen's Legacy Alexander McQueen was best known for his astonishing and extravagant runway presentations, which were given dramatic scenarios and narrative structures that suggested avant-garde installation and performance art. His fashions were an outlet for his emotions, an expression of the deepest, often darkest, aspects of his imagination. He was a true romantic in the Byronic sense of the word – he channeled the sublime; but his technical ingenuity always imbued his designs with an innovative sensibility that kept him at the vanguard. It was precisely his romantic yearnings that propelled his creativity and advanced fashion in directions both unimagined and unprecedented. His vision of fashion relentlessly questioned and challenged the requisites of clothing. Rare among designers, he saw beyond clothing’s physical constraints to its ideation and ideological possibilities.
PART II Current Brand Analysis
SARAH BURTON There has been a shift in the McQueen aesthetic, but not necessarily in a bad way. After Lee's death, the brand seemed to need a more feminine touch and Sarah Burton stepped up to the plate and hit it off right. One could see Lee's passion in flowing through her as she carried out his last designs in her Fall 2010 RTW show. She embodied everything about the brand Alexander McQueen, but she does it in a much more tamed manner. Burton is not the dark romantic that he was, Sarah brings a more gentle touch to McQueen's wild side by being very private and finding majority of her inspiration in the beauty of nature which is something Burton revisits heavily throughout her collections.
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There is without a question that Sarah Burton's garments are exquisitely constructed and beautifully interpreted but there is no respite from the light hearted romance and the flame that once ignited Alexander McQueen began dimming down and now are offered a brand where it is edge to edge without visual relief. With the amount of detailing and innovation that goes into Sarah Burton's collections, they stand on the cusp of couture but remain stagnant under the prĂŞt-Ă -porter umbrella limiting the creative freedom to appeal to a mass market. It is time to preserve the operatic McQueen aesthetic in a couture line and lower the decibel levels for ready-to-wear.
Fall 2010 Ready To Wear
Read-to-Wear has shied away from an art form and has quickly transpired into state of mass production. A realm where Runway shows lack creativity and hardly leave a lasting impression and collection after collection is constant repeat off a central idea. Lee never intended for his brand to fall into this vicious cycle of brands not staying true to their identity, especially where his designs would deemed commercial. Possible considerations could mean it is time for Sarah Burton to begin her own independent label where her artistry can truly flourish. She has proven time and time again that she is capable of delivering delicate romantic garments but it is time for her to develop her personal style out of the shadows of Alexander McQueen and into a refreshed light. Alexander McQueen as a brand should not have to fall into a category where creativity must be sacrificed in order to achieve mass appeal, especially for consumers who will never understand and respect the quality, attention to detail and what it means to wear an Alexander McQueen garment; and though no one can top what Lee did for his brand, progressively moving from Sarah taking over with, "Angels and Demons," there was a certain notion that the brand would eventually move toward the couture route solely based on the tragedy that has ridden the luxury market for so long.
Fall 2013 Ready-To-Wear
PART III Discover The Future of Alexander McQueen
New Logo Development
Further Development
Signature Logo
When drafting the new logo, we sought after a typeface that would be modernized enough to appeal to our customer for future years to come, but still be recognizable to the brand of Alexander McQueen. Alls aspects of the brand had to properly be shown depicting Lee McQueen's bold mentality and Sarah Burton's equal traditional patronage to the brand. Discovering a base font that paid homage to one of McQueen's most innovative fashion shows, “Platos Atlantis,� and with Lee's notorious image for his avant-garde, theatrical runway shows, he will go down in history for having some of the most creative and controversial fashion shows of his time, making the decision conclusive.
When drafting the "Q" we understood the wrong typeface could ultimately ruin the brand, so we sought after fonts representing the British heritage the most. Looking for a font that was just as striking but not as over powering, and one that would balance the base font; much like Sarah was to Lee. Once selected, the predominance of the "Q" too recalls the previous logo, so this too was a conscience decision to not completely change the brand identity and to keep the respect for the tradition that McQueen was built on.
Promotional Logo
With the promotional logo there had to be an even bolder statement. We want to immediately grab our consumers attention so we decided to incorporate a tint of color. Chosing to go with deep ruby red for the "Q", the color is associated with strength, power, and passion; We stand by this decision and know this will translate seamlessly to our customer because our brand never has never complied with "The rules of fashion" and neither does our customer. Alexander McQueen will continue to set trends and change the way consumers perceive fashion.
This will be a turning point in fashion and we are more than ready to continue taking the necessary risks of challenging the status quo in order to remain ahead of the curve. Just one look at our refined logo will be enough to captivate you in to joining the extensive Alexander McQueen client list.
Address: 10 Amwell Street EC1R 1UQ London
Alexander McQueen Goes Couture Beginning the Autumn/Winter 2015, season, Alexander McQueen will exclusively become an houte couture fashion house until Spring/Summer 2018 when pop up shops will begin to be implemented. Constructing made to order pieces under the new Artistic Direction of Brian G. Edwards. Under this new direction, Brian Edwards will be responsible for Revamping Alexander McQueen and reigniting the brands flame. Through this change, efforts will be aimed to reintroduce the brand, Alexander Mcqueen in a dexterous and methodical manner by delivering future showroom pieces constructed with the handcrafted, artisinal qualities of couture with wearable high fashion everyday appeal. Alexander McQueen will also like to take this as an opportunity to broaden our market to better satisfy our clients by partnering with Sean "Jay-Z" Carter and Armand De Brignac to offer a complimentary bottle of champagne for all custom made orders. As well as the Camel Valley Vineyard for all in house wine for guest during fashion shows and showroom fittings. In the beginning stages of off the Revamp, Brian Edwards will present a capsule collection fashion show of his latest designs to show the audience the future direction of Alexander McQueen. By carrying out the value of tradition that has already been instilled in the brand, Alexander McQueen will emerge from the shadows bringing the same intensity that gave the brand its' renown notoriety. Continuing under this direction, Alexander McQueen wholeheartedly understand the importance of building a designer-client relationships where there is complete understanding of what our client's likes and desires are allowing each client to feel like a brand muse; While appropriately representing the brands design codes.
Many fashion houses are losing site of their design values for many seasons in attempts to achieve mass appeal and not focusing on who actually is purchasing their garments; not taking risk to and pushing the boundaries of fashion resulting in the devaluation of the luxury industry so by removing the brand from the ready-to-wear market we are able honor the legacy of Alexander McQueen and to always deliver fresh and exciting ideas for every collection and runway experience.
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London Atelier
The Alexander McQueen Haute Couture House will undergo more modern modifications to better accommodate our clients schedules and convenience with our overall brand experience by installing a private on sight runway where clients may be flown in for fittings or other design discussions along with an in house runway and showroom where our most esteemed guest will exclusively experience a first hand look at the seasons collection before orders begin. Through this initiative Alexander McQueen aims to give our clients a one of a kind experience where they are accommodated in a likeliness of their everyday lifestyle.
Alexander McQueen Stores
The Fashion Show
Once fulfilling the 2014 seasons orders, all flagship stores will cease, while remaining key stores in cities such as: United Kingdom, Dubai, Paris, Milan, San Fransisco, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing, Tokyo, Miami, Las Vegas and New York will be home to future pop up shops with a mix of exhibitions from the brand's latest and most memorable designs with the use of instillations curated from artist around the world who in return will have the opportunity to showcase their talents. Understanding that Alexander McQueen is an aspirational brand, this decision will still alloq us to continue to connect with that aspariational shopper, or for those who simply admires Alexander McQueen as a brand and want to have to opportunity to experience the artistry behind the brand.
Officially starting off the Re-vamp will be the Alexander McQueen 2015 A/W fashion show. This will be a privately held event and will be the first look into the future of Alexander McQueen under the new artistic direction of Brian Edwards. Selected attendes will recieve a press release which will act as an invitation gaining exclusive acsess to where when and why this event will take place. See right.)
Capsule Collection See next page.)
What We Offer
made-to-
our expressionist concepts through our designs to
measure garments and couture pieces for both men and
compliment the entire physique of our client to fully
women through the A/W,S/S 2015 seasons. Classifying
represent the Alexander McQueen brand in its' entirety.
designs as contemporary dark romantic works with
the utilization of the dark dramatics of theatrical
costume design and master tailoring as our medium.
profile events or any platform where our pieces can be
Through this we will maximize on a limitless range
showcased; as a couture house that believes fashion
of
necessary
has no limits, we will continue pushing the status quo
hardware, stopping at nothing to accomplish the
allowing garments to stand out amongst fellow fashion
collaborative dream
houses with the rigt call of attention grace and class.
Alexander
sub-mediums
will
exclusively
from
fabrics
between
dyes,
offer
to
client and designer.
With Alexander McQueen's master tailors and
craftsmen, successfully incorporating principals of RTW such as functionality with the art culture of couture fashions will not only be wearable but also maximizing
Garments will be constructed exclusively for high
P r o t o t y p e s
Silk CO2 Technology Blend
2 Piece Crocodile Leather Harness
Stitched Crocodile Leather skirt
Pulled Raw Silk
Dyed Silk Organza Embedded with EPA Technology
Silk Satin Lining
Dyed Rabbit Fur Cape
3D Floral Stitched Cashmere Wool Suit
Painted Floral Detailing
About Our Products Catalytic Clothing
CO2 technology
By using Catalytic technology, this brings together the worlds of fashion and chemistry with the potential to clean the air we breathe.
This technology Visualizes the level of the greenhouse gas in the air in real-time, using a pattern of over 100 flickering LED lights sewn into the fabric. A microprocessor and CO2 sensor, data to the dress.
EPA Fabric
Skins & Furs Are recycled
Tule Embedded with sensors that are able to intelligently read the surrounding atmosphere and in turn create kinks in the fabrics surface. On days when the air quality is particularly poor.
There will be no killing of animals for our products. We will solely let nature take it's course
Clientele The target market will continue to consist of the upper echelon and renown public figures, who's ages range from mid 20's to mid to late 40's. However, Alexander McQueen would like to expand to not only attract fashion's elitist but also the gain the attention of art exhibitionist to later have our pieces displayed in museums apart of fashion exhibit. Catering to the artisinal sweet tooth of our customer is what continuously drives Alexander McQueen and has continuously driven our brand. Our clients will whole heartedly understand the proficiency and innovation that is couture and will immediately be intrigued by our refreshed aesthetic.
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Clients will have it instilled in their minds that they will never receive another garment quite like ours anywhere else on the luxury market; and now with the new Alexander McQueen international accessibility, it gives us greater access to the entire world. When science allows the human race to reside on the moon, you can guarantee Alexander McQueen will there fulfilling those needs.
Where we Stand Because Alexander McQueen has solely become an couture house the Brand's place on the perceptual map has risen significantly. By taking the chance of honing in on our true customer and not mass appeal we are targeting a very select group of fashion's most influential indiviuals who respect the craftsmanship of Alexander McQueen. In terms of accessibility, due to the brand focusing all operations in one central location in London we are left with very low accessability until pop up shops are implemented.
• • • • •
Exclusivity Creating one-of-a-kind garments Bringing “art for art sake” back to fashion Using originality to create masterpieces Bringing McQueen’s original aesthetic back into the brand • Personal relationship with clients • Making couture what it use to be through exclusivity and craftsmanship • Hand delivered purchases
• Appealing to customers who are not familiar with all design aspects of Alexander McQueen.
• Gaining World Wide Appeal • Collaborations with artist, to create memorable moments • Promoting “Art for Art Sake” • Obtaining higher clientele • Theatrical/unforgettable shows • Changing the direction of couture • Pop-up shops in future- to maintain the attention of younger clientele, as well as those who can not afford couture pieces
S
W
O
T
• Risk losing current customer • Other couture houses being worn by celebrities to high profiled events
36 Future Packaging
Logo Applied Upon completion of an Alexander McQueen custom garment(s), clients will have the options of having their garment personally delivered or by appointment to visit the London Atelier.
Garments will be packaged in a black calfskin wrinkle resistant travel/garment bag with stitched logo detailing as well as a complimentary bottle of champagne courtesy of our partners, Sean "Jay-Z" Carter and Armand de Brignac.
Hang Tags Along with the garment, clients will receive a personalized hang tag with their name inscribed by the couturiers of Alexander McQueen.
In addition, clients will receive a personal keepsake with our signature skull decoratively showcased in an array of styles (i.e. a stitched gold silk threaded fur key charm with gold leaf embroidered detailing)
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Pop-Up Shop Packaging
As pop up shop launch, customers will discover Alexander McQueen's band new packetaging, from neck labels to shopping bag. Garments will be wrapped in recyclable tissue paper tied with a real black rose ribbon and topped with brand sticker. Your purchase will then go in our faux fur shopping box finished with our signature skull embossed in a brushed ruby red aluminum finish all ready for you to go in our new black sleek shopping bag with contrasting lining.
Price Tags Customers will also experience our new collectable faux leather hang tags in which each season will decorativly showcase our signature skull in an array of exciting styles. The back features a water solluble sticker where instead of customers are throwing away hangtags they are now able to be used as gifts or personal key accessories.
Artist / Writers Upon checkout customers will have the option of recieving an ostrich skin leather sketchbook or notebook with a purchase of $10,000 or more. With that comes a set of drawing and writing pencils, as well as one kneaded eraser and one rubber eraser. Wanting to encouraging those who may dream of a place in fashion whether literary or artistic, Alexander McQueen believes in pushing young artist to make their dreams a reality.
Business Cards Employees will recieve all new color specific company business cards where they may be reached and each store will have cards for ordering made to measure pieces. All black cards will serve employee cards and white textured card will be designated for Atelier services.
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The Fashion Show Concept:
The main stage levitate over the Serpentine Lake, and as the show begins lights will flicker on the main stage depicting the two before and after worlds. The catwalk itself will be a raised Plexiglas mirrored runway lined with painted wastage and as as the first model begins down the runway, holographic flames will rip down the runway igniting the show. The flames will remain lit throughout the show and die down as the final looks are revealed and the finale approaches. As the last look reaches the stage the runway will crumble and all lights will cut and the stage will fall.
Displays As guest arrive, they will witness centerfold of each platform, an interactive "performance" of models encased in glass boxes displaying Alexander McQueen's most iconic moments.
Preliminary Set draft
The Finale Front row seating will begin slightly hovering and the stage lights will flicker on the fallen city and the crowd will wait in anticipation as the stage begins slowly spinning, as the fog clears, holographically reavileaing the prototypes of Brian Edwards and Beaty McKnight.
Our Special Gift to You As guest leave, each invited attendee will receive a personal goody bag courtesy of the Alexander McQueen team expressing our gratitude in attendance of the re-vamp. The contents include a stitched saddle back leather, calf haired Alexander McQueen iPad/Mac Book carrying case. Two complimentary 750mL bottles of our in-house wine (white and red) from our partners at Camel Valley Vineyard. Bottles come in a deep forest green glass bottle designed with luxury in mind we understand that not all attendees will have an extended stay, so with our thermal temperature technology, all bottles are kept at a perfect 65oF / 18oC temperature for all long distance traveling.
Viewers at home Though the event will be held privately, viewers at home will have the opportunity to stream the show live on Alexandermcqueen. com, this will also grant you acsses to our new e-commerce, which be linked to all social media accounts where users will be updated on upcoming events such as pop-up shop launches, fashion shows as well as featured art exhibitions.
Typefaces Alien League Gradient Bold Mf Young & Beautiful Regular PANTONE 19-1629 PANTONE 188 c PANTONE 504 M PANTONE PQ-19-4003 TCX
Sources Knox, Kristin. Alexander McQueen: Genius of a Generation. London: & C Black, 2010. Print. Mie, Noé. "'I'm a Romantic Schizophrenic.' - Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty at the Met." STYLECLICKER. N.p., 05 July 2011. Web. 13 June 2016. Rowe, Keri, "Elevating the Other: A Theoretical Approach to Alexander McQueen" (2015). All Theses and Dissertations. Paper 4394. Vaughan, Heather. "Alexander McQueen: A Legacy." Alexander McQueen: A Legacy. N.p., 2010. Web. 13 June 2016.