[Title will be auto-generated] by the British International School, Shanghai

FIRST EDITION

THE ESSENTIALS

GUIDE BUDAPEST W WW.NOR DAN GLIA.COM /B UDAPEST

THE ESSENTIALS

GUIDE BUDAPEST W W W.NOR DAN GLIA.COM /B UDAPEST

THE ESSENTIALS

GUIDE BUDAPEST W W W.N OR DAN GLIA.COM/BU DAPEST

Secondary Design - Travis Murray Primary Copywriting - William Lower Secondary Copywriting - Susan Jefferies Copyediting / Proofreading - Aelred Doyle Secondary Copyediting - Alexandra Fekete While every possible effort has been taken to ensure that the facts contained within this guide are accurate, Nord Anglia cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that this guide may contain. No part of this guide may be reproduced or distributed, by electronic means or any other, without the prior permission of Nord Anglia Ltd.

TABLE OF CONTENTS PREPARING TO GO Introduction p 8 History p 20

Money and Banking p 58 Getting Connected p 60 Health Care p 64

Culture p 24

Temporary Accommodation p 68

Geography and Cityscape p 28

Finding Housing p 74

Demographics p 29 Country Map p 30 Language p 32 Climate p 33

Getting Settled p 80 Culture Shock p 82 Education p 87 Education Supplement p 94

Regional Map p 34 Administrative Preparations p 36

LIVING IN BUDAPEST

Address, Phone and Finances p 38

Health and Wellness p 136

Embassies p 40

Eating and Drinking p 138

Books, Films and Music p 44

Shopping p 146

WHEN YOU ARRIVE

Neighbourhood Descriptions p 154

Landing p 50

Conclusion p 162

Getting Around p 52

helpi ng others thrive www.nordanglia.com/budapest

Education and learning have always been our focus and our area of expertise. Our people and the people we work with all have a good understanding of what this means to us. We aim to provide students with the opportunity to be the best they can be.

Introduction

oving to Budapest? If so, you’re about to call one of the most beautiful cities in the world home. It’s also home to one of the world’s most challenging languages, which may seem daunting at first. However, most Hungarians recognise their mother tongue’s complexity and don’t expect foreigners to learn much more than the basics. The most important phrase in any language? “Thank you.” Köszönöm!

When you first arrive you’ll likely be swept away by the city’s architectural beauty. You may also find that Hungarians are more formal than you’re accustomed to. For the most part, they’re very polite; that may even catch you off your guard at first. You’ll get used to it. Some expats have said that after being in Budapest for some time and then returning home, the first thing that strikes them is how rude everyone seems.

here are two main groups of expats in Budapest: those here on a posting or transfer for an average of three years, and those who have moved here on a more permanent basis. The latter group often comprises expats married to Hungarians. However, don’t be surprised to hear some expats say things like “I came here for three weeks ten years ago.” Such can be the allure of Budapest.

hether here to work, study or both, living in Budapest will not only add spice to your life (literally, as the paprika capital of the world), it will undoubtedly add spice to your CV. Although it’s a small country of only 10 million, many of its educational institutions are world-renowned. It’s also a cultural cornucopia, with everything from world-class opera and folk art to a thriving visual arts community. Of course, as with living anywhere, there are challenges.

To the newcomer, the bureaucracy may feel on one day comedic, on the next crippling. You won’t be the only one to recognise this. Most Hungarians do too. But it’s improving.

his Essentials Guide Budapest was created and designed to help you prepare for your move and to provide assistance with the essentials once you arrive. The expat community in Budapest is strong and close and readily embraces newcomers. Budapest is culturally rich and home to exceptional international schools, and you’ll have access to all Western-style amenities. Since it’s literally the centre of Europe, there’s no better place to explore not just a new country, but an entire continent.

PREPARING TO GO

CONTENTS

PREPARING TO GO INTRO

Preparing to go will be as much a mental journey as it will be a practical one. Understanding more about the culture you are about to encounter will help prepare you for the experience. You can read a book or watch a movie we recommend or you can engage in your own research. Either way, the process will reward you. The practical aspects of preparation are, of course, vital to ensuring that your journey begins on a positive note. This section will help you prepare on both fronts.

History p 20 Culture p 24 Geography and Cityscape p 28 Demographics p 29 Country Map p 30 Language p 32 Climate p 33 Regional Map p 34 Administrative Preparations p 36 Address, Phone and Finances p 38 Embassies p 40 Books, Films and Music p 44

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HISTORY History

Hungarians are incredibly proud people with a memory as long as their history.

odern Hungary was formed on June 4, 1920 – and no Hungarian will ever let you forget it. These are incredibly proud people with a memory as long as their history. The result of the Paris Peace Talks of 1919, the Trianon Treaty, saw Hungary lose two thirds of its land mass, and millions of Magyars become citizens of foreign states overnight. That treaty played a significant role in shaping the events of 20th-century Hungary. It was a century that was not kind to this nation. In just a few short decades, Hungary went from being a wealthy and powerful member of the Austro-Hungarian Empire to an impoverished and humiliated state. It has been a thousand years since the Magyars, renowned and feared mounted warriors, thundered out of Asia and across the steppes. Little stood in their way, because they brought with them a device that gave them a distinct military advantage: the stirrup. They could outmanoeuvre their enemies, and the speed and accuracy of their mounted archers was deeply feared. You may be familiar with the term ‘parting shot’; it perhaps came from these highly skilled warriors. At full gallop, they would unleash their rapid, accurate airborne assault and, after turning to ride away, pivot in their saddles and fire again with equal and deadly accuracy. You may also be familiar with one of their early, much-maligned leaders of around 400 AD, Attila the Hun. While Hungary’s history is fascinating, intriguing and colourful, for your purposes knowing some of Hungary’s 20th- and 21st-century history may be the most helpful. As skilled as the Magyars were at the parting shot, they’ve also shown a great talent for shooting themselves in the foot. If you’re a history junkie, you may find Paul Lendvai’s The Hungarians: A Thousand Years of Victory in Defeat fascinating. Incredibly well researched, it makes sense out of events that seem, on the surface, to lack any sense at all.

Attila the Hun

Let’s start our journey into Hungarian history at the Paris Peace Talks. In an effort to impress the allies with Hungary’s new-found liberalism and forward-thinking ways, Hungary sent a prominent feminist to Switzerland to contact the Allies in hopes of preventing the dissection of the

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HISTORY

Bela Kun country. Unfortunately, the conservative Swiss were nothing but alarmed by her and everyone bore witness to her public and constant arguing with her staff. Another forward-thinking Hungarian, Bela Kun, overthrew the government in 1919 to form a communist, Soviet sphere state. That did Hungary no favours in the eyes of the Big Three (England, the US and France) during the talks. Although Hungary’s experiment with communism was brief, enough damage was done in Paris to convince the delegation that Hungary had to be contained. Following that brief communist period, Hungary was declared a monarchy, led by an admiral in a land-locked country with no navy. The inter-war years saw banks collapse in 1931, followed by mass unemployment. Despite pressure from Germany, Hungary initially remained neutral at the onset of World War II. In fact, they refused passage to German convoys and opened the borders to 100,000 Polish refugees after the fall of Poland. (There remains a strong affinity between the Poles and the Hungarians.) But the promise of regaining territories lost after the Trianon Treaty was powerful, and in 1940 Hungary joined the Three Power Pact (Japan, Germany and Italy). It didn’t take long for Hungary to seek a peaceful resolution. In 1942, Hungary quietly tried to arrange contact with the United States and Great Britain, and in 1943 it was in secret negotiations with the Allies about changing course. In 1944, Admiral Horthy made a public radio address seeking a ceasefire with the Soviet Union. Hitler was of a different mind and had Horthy’s son kidnapped, summoning Horthy to Berlin while sending German troops to occupy Hungary. A puppet Nazi government under Arrow Cross, Hungary’s Nazi party, was established and a reign of

Hungary joined the Axis powers in the hope of regaining territory lost in the signing of the Trianon Treaty.

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HISTORY

Budapest endured the second-longest siege of World War II, after Stalingrad.

Admiral Horthy

terror began. In 1944, even with defeat clearly inevitable, the ruling Arrow Cross thugs still managed to export almost half a million Jews and other “undesirables” to Auschwitz. Hitler wanted to save Vienna at all costs, and the cost was Budapest. He refused to allow the German or Hungarian armies to attempt to break out, and Budapest endured the second-longest siege of World War II, after Stalingrad. The Soviets captured Budapest, and so began the second reign of terror. Following the death of Stalin and Khrushchev’s famous denunciation of him in the Kremlin, many believed that reforms would be, if not embraced, at least tolerated. This did not prove to be the case. There was a popular uprising in 1956, started by students. The determined, inventive and courageous Hungarians faced tanks with rocks, a few single-shot rifles, home-made petrol bombs and an unending supply of ingenuity. That week, October 23-29, there was every appearance of a Hungarian victory. The Soviets withdrew. However, a week later they returned with 2,000 tanks to suppress a basically unarmed city of less than two million people. October 23 remains one of the most important national holidays in Hungary. An estimated 200,000 Hungarians fled to the West in 1956, arguably one of the world’s greatest brain drains. Those who did not flee and were accused of participation in the revolution faced either imprisonment or execution.

Heroes’ Square, Budapest

A satellite Soviet state through the cold war, it wasn’t until the 1980s that significant change began to take place, not just in Hungary but in Poland and other countries as well. In 1989, democracy returned to this noble nation. Today, Hungary is a member of NATO and the EU and her democracy is active, animated and very much alive.

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HISTORY

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CULTURE Culture

Hungary has produced more Nobel Prize winners per capita than any other nation.

ungarians are a fascinating people. Reserved and somewhat formal, it sometimes appears that the twentieth century, with its relaxation of social niceties, passed them by. Social interactions are extremely polite and vigorous handshaking or kissing on both cheeks are common practices, as is a deference to older people, although this is slowly eroding with the onslaught of Western influences. Hungary has a highly educated society and, according to the World Factbook, it has a higher literacy rate than Canada, the US or the UK. The people are prolific readers and Hungary has produced more Nobel Prize winners per capita than any other nation. There are state-funded and private universities, technical schools, religious educational institutions and private and state-funded colleges to choose from, mainly in the capital, although there are well-known institutions in larger towns across the country as well. In addition to being well educated, Hungarians are highly cultured, with the arts an integral part of everyday life. The government ensures they are accessible to all and it’s not uncommon to see people of all age groups and socio-economic backgrounds at the opera. Theatres, museums and art galleries can be found throughout the city and are all well-attended. Hungarians have a tendency towards melancholy and even their national anthem attests that they are a people “torn by fate”. The fact that they have one of the world’s highest suicide rates would seem to confirm this inclination to gloom and despair, a characteristic of which they are well aware. They are fiercely proud of their heritage and some even to this day bemoan the loss of two-thirds of their country almost a century ago. National holidays include 1848 Revolution Day (March 15), Saint Stephen’s Day (August 20) and the 1956 Uprising Memorial Day (October 23). These are significant events, and wreaths are laid at the feet of statues, which are everywhere, or at prominent sites around the country.

Hungarians are fiercely proud of their heritage and to this day bemoan the loss of two-thirds of their country almost a century ago.

Hungary is predominantly a Roman Catholic country but, as in many Western countries, church attendance is in decline. Easter is the most important religious holiday, followed by Christmas and Whit Monday. The ball season lasts from early January through to Ash Wednesday, and Carnival Season (Farsang) celebrates the end of winter throughout February. An interesting outing on November 1 is to go to a cemetery, as graves are decorated with flowers and candles on the Day of the Dead – a far cry from the trick-or-treating which takes place in the UK and North America. While birthdays are usually celebrated with family and close friends, name days are often celebrated more publicly, in the workplace for example.

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CULTURE Approximately two-thirds of Hungarians now live in towns or cities, but traditional culture continues to be celebrated and folk arts and crafts continue to be available. Hungary has one of the richest folk art traditions in Europe, excelling in weaving, embroidery, pottery, woodcarving and furniture making. Although old customs are inevitably losing some of their allure with younger generations, these crafts can be found at every festival and at tourist attractions around the city. For the most part, Hungarians meet their friends and entertain outside the home in cafes and restaurants. Being invited to dine at a Hungarian’s home is a compliment and often a more formal affair than in some other countries. Flowers, chocolates and wine should be given as gifts, and be prepared for a plentiful meal, as hospitality is often measured by the amount of food served. Drinking plays an important role in Hungarian social life, with wine (from the world famous Tokaj or Eger for example) and pálinka (fruit brandy) the most popular beverages. Drinking coffee is also a popular way to start one’s morning, serving an almost medicinal purpose for some. Hungarian men can still be quite sexist in their attitudes, but many expats note that Hungarian women are strong and often seem to rule the roost. Families tend to have a much closer relationship with each other than in some other cultures and children are often said to be at the centre of Hungarian society.

Per capita alcohol consumption in Hungary is only exceeded by Ireland and Luxembourg.

Most of Budapest was built in the 19th and 20th century, with broad boulevards and stunning architecture. Some buildings still feature bullet holes left from the Second World War, while others are beautifully renovated to maintain the image of the city. Budapest itself is a safer city than many other European capitals; children, for example, can safely travel unaccompanied on public transport to and from school, and while you must always exercise caution, the likelihood of being attacked on a main street at night remains low.

The famous embroidery from Kalocsa is often used and worn even today, and the technique is passed on from generation to generation.

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GEOGRAPHY AND CITYSCAPE Geography and Cityscape

Budapest is at the geographical centre of Europe, making it an ideal spot from which to explore the rest of the continent.

I. Castle District II. Rózsadomb III. Óbuda IV. Újpest V. Belváros VI. Térézváros VII. Erzsébetváros VIII. Józsefváros IX. Ferencváros X. Köbánya XI. Újbuda XII. Hegyvidék XIII. Angyalföld XIV. Zugló XV. Rákospalota XVI. Mátyásföld XVII. Rákosmente XVIII. PestszentlörincPestszentimre XIX. Kispest XX. Pesterzsébet XI. Csepel XII. Budafok-Tétény XIII. Soroksár

he Republic of Hungary occupies the Carpathian Basin and its capital, Budapest, is at the geographical centre of Europe, making it an ideal spot from which to explore the rest of the continent. Budapest is a large yet livable city, covering 525 square kilometres. It’s divided in two by the Danube River (Duna), with Buda, comprising one-third of the city, on the western bank and Pest, comprising the other two-thirds, on the eastern. Their geography couldn’t be more different – Buda sits on nine hills while Pest is completely flat, lying on the western edge of the Great Plain. There are also a number of islands in the Danube which are part of the city; the main one, Margit Island, has been turned into a beautiful park, complete with its own thermal pools and jogging trails criss-crossing the island. No cars are permitted on the island to keep pollution minimal, but you can use the number 26 bus or the little tourist train (kisvonat) to take a tour around the island if you don’t fancy a walk.

III

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DEMOGRAPHICS Buda is the preferred home of most expats with children, with private homes, villas and small residential buildings sprawling over the treecovered, rolling hills. Pest, on the other hand, tends to attract young, childless couples and empty-nesters, lured by restaurants and cultural attractions. The city is divided into 23 districts, each with its own local government, numbered clockwise in widening circles. They’re named with Roman numerals (I-XXIII). The lower the number, the closer to the city core; the higher the number, the further out. Postcodes have four digits; the two middle digits tell you the district. For example, 1037 is in District III. There are a total of 11 bridges linking Buda and Pest, eight of them wellknown. In Pest, the main thoroughfares radiate out from the Danube, crossing the ring roads, with the streets in between in a grid pattern. In Buda, main roads tend to follow the valleys between the hills, with winding streets in the upper reaches. Remember that the same street name can be found in many different districts (and in cities throughout the country), so be sure you always know the district of your destination.

Demographics

ungary’s population is just under 10 million, with Budapest home to 2 million. Over 90 percent are ethnically Magyar (Hungarian) and minorities include Germans, Serbs and other South Slavs, Slovaks and Romanians. Roma are about 7 percent of the population and their integration is an ongoing challenge, as for many nations in Europe. The expat population of Budapest is estimated to be over 200,000.

The expat population of Budapest is estimated to be over 200,000.

Crowd in central Budapest

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LANGUAGE Language

Hungarian is said to be one of the most difficult languages in the world to learn, and is only spoken by approximately 14 million people worldwide.

Most Englishspeaking expats don’t take the time to learn Hungarian, as it will probably never be used elsewhere.

ungarian is in the Ugric group of the Uralic family of languages and differs dramatically in vocabulary and structure from Indo-European languages. It’s very distantly related to both Finnish and Estonian, but only in terms of grammar structure – vocabulary is completely different. It’s said to be one of the most difficult languages in the world to learn, and is only spoken by approximately 14 million people worldwide. It’s very poetic and some literal translations bear a resemblance to 18th-century English. Hungarians consider it the most beautiful language in the world. Hungarian has 44 letters, with 14 vowel sounds and 25 consonant sounds, many not found in English. The sounds remain consistent, so if you take the time to learn them you’ll almost always be able to pronounce a word. The stress is always on the first syllable, but there may be another if the word is a compound one – these are numerous and can present a challenge when you try to locate them in the dictionary. To give you an idea, the longest word in Hungarian is reputed to be legeslegmegszentségteleníttethetetlenebbjeitekkent. While not used in regular conversation, it’s easily understandable by Hungarians. Most English-speaking expats don’t take the time to learn Hungarian, as it will probably never be used elsewhere. The one benefit of the difficulty of the language is that it tends to make the expat community much tighter. People have a greater need to rely on one another for information and assistance that they cannot obtain from locals; unfortunately, they’re also less likely to establish significant social relationships with Hungarians. Remember you’re a guest in this country; apologise for not speaking the language before asking if someone speaks English (Angol). Learning the most common everyday phrases is a good idea, and most Hungarians are very appreciative when one attempts to converse with them. Pronunciation can be exceedingly problematic, so don’t be surprised if you’re met with a blank stare or a broad smile when you speak – many of the sounds are quite unlike anything in English! As ever, practice makes perfect. There are many language schools, but if you choose not to study, you’ll still get by. You’ll gradually learn to recognise common words in supermarkets, shops, restaurants and the transit system, and carrying a pocket dictionary can also be helpful. There’s usually at least one staff member who speaks good English in expat shops, and usually someone with a little English just about everywhere in Budapest. German is the next most common second language, with Italian, Spanish and French much rarer. In the countryside, English-speakers become much rarer. Don’t forget that dictionary!

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CLIMATE Climate

ungary has a temperate climate and Budapest lies in the Continental climatic zone, one of three in the country. Winters are generally not too severe, with temperatures seldom dipping below -10 Celsius and averaging -3 to +3 from December through February. Snowfall varies but is generally pretty minimal in Pest and melts fairly quickly, while the Buda Hills can see significant accumulation. Winter does tend to be very damp and grey, with sunny days few and far between.

Hungary is the meeting point of three climactic zones: the Oceanic, Continental and Mediterranean.

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Millimetres of Precipitation

Average Daily High in ºCelsius

By March the temperature is beginning to climb, with an average high reaching 12 degrees, and by May Budapest is into the 20s. Early spring is a beautiful season but late spring (May and June) sees the most rainfall. Summers are quite hot but are not particularly humid, with average highs ranging from 25 in June to 27 in July and August, with temperatures in the mid-30s not uncommon. September is usually a gorgeous month, with the least precipitation and temperatures in the mid-teens to low twenties. October is also quite pleasant, but by November the clouds and rainfall return and highs average 8 degrees.

Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

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ADMINISTRATIVE PREPARATIONS General

If your company doesn’t provide assistance obtaining work or residence permits, hiring the services of a relocation company is strongly recommended.

valid passport is required by all people entering Hungary and it’s important to remember that your passport must be valid for at least another six months after the expiration date of any mandatory Hungarian work or residence permits. A visa may or may not be required, depending on whether your home country has a bilateral agreement with Hungary. If you’re not sure, check with the Hungarian Consulate in your home country. It’s recommended that you bring all of the following documents, which may be necessary to meet legal, employment or educational requirements. • • • • • • • • • •

Birth certificate Marriage certificate Diplomas and CV Children’s school records Medical records Vaccination schedules Driving licence Proof of health insurance Employment contract (if applicable) Lease agreement / purchase contract (if accommodation has been secured before your arrival)

If your company doesn’t provide assistance obtaining work or residence permits, hiring the services of a relocation company is strongly recommended. Meeting the bureaucratic requirements to get the mandatory Hungarian documentation can be a complex, timeconsuming process, with the challenge compounded by the fact that many government personnel have limited English, if any at all. Regulations can and do change frequently. Hiring a relocation company will help ensure that your application meets current requirements, and could save you time and frustration.

Non-EU citizens Work permit Everyone other than EU citizens or spouses of Hungarian citizens needs a work permit to be employed in Hungary. Most of the necessary paperwork for the work permit is handled by the employer and includes proof of qualifications and health certification. Once a work permit is granted, the employee must apply for a residence permit. If you’re a citizen of a country that doesn’t have a bilateral agreement with Hungary, you’ll need to apply for a residence permit at the Hungarian Consulate in your home country or in the country where you hold a valid residence permit. Once this is granted you’ll receive a 30-day visa which allows you to enter Hungary to collect your residence permit at the Immigration Office. If you don’t

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ADMINISTRATIVE PREPARATIONS require a visa to enter Hungary, you can apply for your residence permit once you’re here. This must be done at the relevant local immigration office within 90 days of entering the Schengen Area. Non-EU citizens can only spend 90 days of any 180-day period in the Area on a visitor’s basis. The documents required for a residence permit are as follows: • passport, valid for a minimum of 18 months • 1 passport photo • proof of accommodation (lease / home ownership document) • proof of means of living (bank statement / employment contract) • if working, a work permit • if married, a marriage certificate • if with children, their birth certificates • proof of health insurance

If you don’t require a visa to enter Hungary, you can apply for your residence permit once you’re here.

Once you receive your residence permit, you’ll receive an address form that must be kept in your passport. Once granted, both work and residence permits are valid for up to two years and can be renewed if desired. If any of your documents expire in less than two years (i.e. your lease), that will be considered the last date that you are legally able to remain in the country. These documents give a foreign citizen the right to both reside in and travel to and from Hungary, and act as documentation for legal residence during your stay. All family members relocating with you will need to apply for the residence permit. Once you have a valid residence permit and address form, you can then apply for a tax card and a social security booklet.

EU citizens Citizens of EU and EEA member states don’t require a work permit to work in Hungary, but you must hold a valid identification document, with photo, issued by your home country, and you need to register with the immigration department to apply for a registration card. This has no expiry date, as long as your passport remains valid. You’ll need to provide proof of accommodation, employment and health insurance, as well as the ability to cover you and your family’s costs during your Hungarian residency. Upon receipt of all of the necessary documents, the registration card will be immediately issued by the Immigration Office. Once you get the registration card, the relevant authority will post your address card to you. It’s important to remember that your registration card is only valid with your passport – it’s not a stand-alone document – and that all three documents (passport, registration card and address card) should be carried together at all times.

If any of your documents expire in less than two years (i.e. your lease), that will be considered the last date that you are legally able to remain in the country.

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ADDRESS, PHONE AND FINANCES Before you leave

Many companies will block the use of debit or credit cards in foreign countries unless they have been advised in advance of your travel plans.

ne of the greatest resources for international living is Internet banking and communication. Living abroad is dramatically different today than it was even 10 years ago, but it can be easy to let that lull you into a false sense of complacency. There are a number of things you should do prior to leaving your home country to minimise or eliminate potential problems down the road. Be sure to notify all banks and credit card companies of your relocation plans. Many companies will block the use of debit or credit cards in foreign countries unless they have been advised in advance of your travel plans. Credit card companies also generally require a local address, so be sure to maintain a mailing address in your home country. Arrange for online payment of bills where possible, or leave a supply of postdated cheques when necessary. Check with your bank about the procedures for transferring money internationally and make any required arrangements around taxes, pension plans and other financial matters. Ensure that you’ve packed all documents and educational and medical records, and bring a generous supply of any prescription medications you may require. (See the Health Care section for additional information.) If you’re shipping your furniture, remember to check if your appliances and electronics will work in Hungary. If you’re bringing your family pet, EU citizens must ensure they have a pet passport. Non-EU citizens must show a veterinary health certificate which proves that the animal meets all EU requirements. If travelling by air, it’s necessary to contact your airline to ensure that all criteria are met so there are no last-minute crises to deal with.

Right - Post office in the castle district Inset - Fisherman’s Bastion at night

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EMBASSIES Embassy of the Republic of Argentina 1023 Budapest, Vérhalom u. 12- 16. A . ép. II. em. 3 (06 1 326 0492, embargen@nextra.hu)

Australian Embassy 1126 Budapest, Királyhágó tér 8-9 (06 1 201 8899, www.australia.hu, ausembbp@mail.datanet.hu)

Embassy of the Republic of Austria A lot of embassies hold cultural events or bazaars every year for the community, a good chance to meet other nationalities.

1068 Budapest, Benczúr u. 16 (06 1 479 7010, www.austrian-embassy.hu, austroamb-budapest@pronet.hu)

Brazilian Embassy 1123 Budapest Alkotás utca 50, B épület, II emelet (06 1 351 0060, www.brazil.hu, embassy@brazil.hu)

British Embassy 1051 Budapest, Harmincad u. 6 (06 1 266 2888, www.britishembassy.hu, info@britemb.hu)

Embassy of Bulgaria 1062 Budapest, Andrássy út 115 (06 1 322 0824)

Embassy of Canada 1027 Budapest, Ganz u. 12-14 (061392 3360, www.canadaeuropa.gc.ca/hungary, bpest@international.gc.ca)

Embassy of the People’s Republic of China 1068 Budapest,Varosligeti fasor 22 (06 1 413 2400, www.chinaembassy.hu, chinaemb_hu@mfa.gov.cn)

Embassy of Croatia 1065 Budapest, Munkácsy Mihály u. 15 (06 1 354 1315, croemb.bp@mvp.hr)

Embassy of the Czech Republic 1064 Budapest, Rózsa u. 61 (06 1 351 0539, www.mzv.cz/budapest, budapest@embassy.mzv.cz)

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EMBASSIES Embassy of Denmark 1122 Budapest, Határõr út 37 (06 1 487 9000, www.ambbudapest.um.dk, budamb@um.dk)

Embassy of the Egyptian Arab Republic 1125 Budapest Istenhegyi út 7/b (06 1 225 2150, egyptembassybudapest@yahoo.com)

Embassy of the French Republic 1062 Budapest, Lendvay u. 27 (06 1 374 1100, www.ambafrance-hu.org, Consulat.BUDAPEST-AMBA@ diplomatie.gouv.fr)

Embassy of the Federal Republic of Germany 1014 Budapest, Úri u. 64-66 (06 1 488 3500, www.deutschebotschaft-budapest.hu, info@ deutschebotschaft.hu)

Most embassies have short opening hours and you often need to book an appointment; check with the embassy beforehand.

Embassy of Greece 1063 Budapest, Szegfû u. 3 (06 1 413 2600)

Embassy of India 1025 Budapest, Búzavirág u. 14 (06 1 325 7742, www.indianembassy.hu)

Embassy of the Islamic Republic of Iran 1143 Budapest, Stefánia út 97 (06 1 460 9260, www.iranembassy.hu, embiran@nextra.hu)

Embassy of Ireland 1054 Budapest, Szabadság 7-9 (Bank Center, Gránit Torony) (06 1 302 9600, www.embassyofireland.hu, emb@hu.inter.net)

Embassy of Israel 1026 Budapest, Fullánk u. 8 (06 1 200 0781, http://budapest.mfa.gov.il, info@budapest.mfa.gov.il)

Embassy of the Republic of Italy 1143 Budapest, Stefánia út 95 (460 6200, www.ambbudapest.esteri.it/ Ambasciata_Budapest, ambasciata.budapest@esteri.it)

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EMBASSIES Embassy of Japan 1125 Budapest, Zalai út 7 (06 1 398 3100, www.hu.emb-japan.go.jp, culture@japanembassy.hu)

Embassy of the Republic of Korea 1062 Budapest, Andrássy út 109 (061351 1179, http://hun.mofat.go.kr/eng, hungary@mofat.go.kr)

Embassy of the United States of Mexico 1024 Budapest, Rómer Flóris u. 58 (06 1 326 0486)

Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands 1022 Budapest, Füge u. 5-7 (06 1 336 6300, www.hollandnagykovetseg.hu, bdp@minbuza.nl)

Embassy of the Kingdom of Norway 1015 Budapest, Ostrom u. 13 (06 1 212 9400, www.norvegia.hu/embassy, emb.budapest@mfa.no)

Embassy of the Islamic Republic of Pakistan 1125 Budapest, Adonis u. 3/A. (06 1 355 8017, www.pakistanembassy.hu, parepbudapest@yahoo.hu)

Embassy of the Republic of Poland 1068 Budapest, Városligeti fasor 16 (06 1 342 5566, www.budapeszt.polemb.net, budapeszt.amb.sekretariat@ msz.gov.pl)

Embassy of the Republic of Portugal 1126 Budapest, MOM Park C Épület, IV, Alkotás u. 53 (06 1 316 2645)

Embassy of the Russian Federation 1062 Budapest, Bajza u. 35 (06 1 302 5230, www.hungary.mid.ru, rusemb@euroweb.hu)

Embassy of Serbia and Montenegro 1068 Budapest, Dózsa Gy. u. 92/B (06 1 322 9838, ambjubo@mail.datanet.hu)

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EMBASSIES Embassy of the Republic of Slovakia 1143 Budapest, Stefánia út 22-24 (06 1 460 9010)

Embassy of the Republic of Slovenia 1025 Budapest, Cseppkõ u. 68 (06 1 438 5600, http://budimpesta.veleposlanistvo.si, vbp@gov.si)

Embassy of the Kingdom of Spain 1067 Budapest, Eötvös u. 11/B (06 1 342 9992, www.maec.es/embajadas/budapest/es/home, Emb. Budapest@maec.es)

Embassy of the Kingdom of Sweden 1027 Budapest, Kapás u. 6-12 (06 1 460 6020, www.swedenabroad.com/budapest, ambassaden. budapest@foreign.ministry.se)

Check with your embassy to see what networking events it holds.

Embassy of Switzerland 1143 Budapest, Stefánia út 107 (06 1 460 7040, www.svajcinagykovetseg.hu, bud.vertretung@eda.admin. ch)

Embassy of the Kingdom of Thailand 1025 Budapest, Verecke u. 79 (06 1 438 4020, www.thaiembassy.org/budapest, thaiemba@mail.datanet. hu)

Embassy of the Republic of Turkey 1062 Budapest, Andrássy út 123. (06 1 344 5025, www.budapeste.be.mfa.gov.tr, embassy.budapest@mfa.gov. tr)

Embassy of the United States of America 1054 Budapest, Szabadság tér 12 (475 4400, www.usembassy.hu, webmaster@usembassy.hu)

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BOOKS, FILMS AND MUSIC Books Embers Sandor Márai (1942) One of the great 20th-century Hungarian writers, Marai’s books portray the end of the Austro-Hungarian era and the calamity of the ensuing wars. This riveting novel takes place over one night, with the reunion of two men who were once friends in a far different time.

Getting informed before you leave will help you avoid culture shock and will greatly improve your enjoyment of your time in Budapest

Fatelessness Imre Kertész (1975) Kertész won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 2002, and many consider this his greatest work. A 15-year-old Hungarian Jew is deported to Auschwitz and Buchenwald. Surviving, he returns to Budapest and must confront those who were spared. It's powerful and unwavering stuff. Under the Frog Tibor Fischer (1992) Booker-nominated black comedy about a group of basketball players in post-war Budapest who travel naked to games and dream of escape, culminating in the disaster of 1956. Fischer’s wit and zest for language make the tragedy all the more affecting. Written in English. Prague Arthur Phillips (2002) Huh? No really, this is set in Budapest. It follows a group of American expats living there right after the end of the Cold War. Not a Hungarian novel really, but a great depiction of the city in the brief moment before everything changed again and a nice historical primer in the portion of the novel dealing with a centuries-old publishing house. NOW YOU SEE IT, NOW YOU DON'T Marion Merrick Written in a lively and entertaining style, this book chronicles everyday life in the author's first – and communism's last – seven years in Hungary. The sequel, House of Cards, follows the transformation of 1989 which left no one's life unaffected.

Music FERENC Liszt (1811-1886) Despite spending little of his life in Hungary, Liszt is synonymous with Hungarian classical music (and always referred to himself as Hungarian); he has been called the greatest pianist ever seen in terms of sheer playing ability. He was also rock-star famous in his day and one of the most celebrated teachers of the 19th century. He’s best-known for his piano

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BOOKS, FILMS AND MUSIC works, such as Annees de Pelerinage and his Piano Sonata in B Minor. Béla BartÓk (1881-1945) Hungary’s other genius of classical music was part of the twentiethcentury trend that saw a breaking down of centuries-old harmonic structures and a turning to indigenous musical sources for inspiration – in Bartók’s case, he became fascinated by Hungarian folk music. His masterpieces include his six string quartets and his Third Piano Concerto. Kispál és a Borz Alternative rock band (the name means Kispal and the Badger) founded in 1987 by schoolmates who went on to work at the state gas provider together – an old-school approach from before the fall of the Berlin Wall. They cemented their legend by breaking up after a huge farewell concert in summer 2010. Immensely influential. Quimby Still going strong 20 years on, this is one of Hungary’s most popular rock bands. They’ve tried a variety of approaches over the years, with ten-plus albums under their belt, plus a greatest hits collection.

Hungary has a rich cultural history and tradition. Delving into it through some of our suggestions will not be a waste of time.

Films Merry-Go-Round Zoltán Fábri (1956) A young woman’s taste for freedom is contrasted with the reality of her tough rural life and her father’s insistence that she marry a rich old man, since “land marries land”. The man she loves is determined not to lose her. The Red and the White Miklós Jancsó (1967) A Russian-Hungarian co-production which didn’t please the Soviets when it turned out to portray the Russian Civil War as a brutal, heroismfree conflict rather than a glorious revolution. My 20th Century Ildiko Enyedi (1989) Twin girls born in Budapest in 1880 are separated and go on to live wildly different lives in a world exploding into modernity. Werckmeister Harmonies Béla Tarr (2000) A small town is entranced by a sinister travelling circus and the carcass of a whale it transports along with it. This black and white classic only gets more disturbing as the tension builds to a horrifying denouement.

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XXXXXXX CONTENTS

WHEN YOU ARRIVE INTRO

When you arrive in Budapest try to get your bearings. If you don’t already have one, purchase a map at the airport and follow your route to the hotel as you make your way there. At the hotel, ask the concierge to help you orient yourself in terms of the front entrance to the hotel – this way you’ll be able to go for a walk and more easily be able to find your way home. You can also ask your concierge to help you mark on your map places that you will be visiting such as your company, prospective schools and housing options. Quiz the concierge about traffic patterns and get their opinion on travel times between different areas of the city. When combined with the opinions of others like your relocation agent and colleagues, you’ll be better informed to decide where you’ll live and where your children will go to school.

Landing p 50 Getting Around p 52 Money and Banking p 58 Getting Connected p 60 Health Care p 64 Temporary Accommodation p 68 Finding Housing p 74 Getting Settled p 80 Culture Shock p 82 Education p 87 Education Supplement p 94

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LANDING XXXXXXX When you arrive

In a new city, it can often be a challenge to find like-minded individuals who speak your language.

t can be quite overwhelming to relocate to a new country where you don’t speak the language, especially if it’s your first overseas assignment. First of all, it’s prudent to register with your home country embassy so that they’re aware that you’re here and know how to reach you in case of an emergency. Many people are unaware of the resources that embassies offer their citizens. In a new city, it can often be a challenge to find like-minded individuals who speak your language. The sooner you meet other expats, the sooner you’ll have a support group to lean on. There are a number of clubs in Budapest that make getting connected a relatively easy task. All Nations Lions Club Budapest www.alncb.hu British Women’s Association www.bwa.expatshungary.com Open to women who hold a UK passport or whose spouses do. International Families Club Ildiko Jaro (06 1 376 5740) International Women’s Club (IWC) www.iwcbudapest.hu A social club for women of all nationalities. North American Women’s Association (NAWA) www.nawabudapest.com Primarily a social group for North American women, it’s open to other nationalities who may join as Friends of NAWA. Professional Women’s Association of Budapest www.pwa.hu Organisation for professional women. Budapest Beer Drinking and Rugby Watching Club Self-explanatory! They most often meet at Champs. For more information contact Alan Rees at reesalan@talk21.com. Budapest Celtic FC Supporters Club Watch the games at the Caledonia with like-minded souls. Budapest Hash House Harriers budapesthash@gmail.com Meets every Sunday at Battany tér for running, walking and socialising.

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XXXXXXX LANDING The Australian Society Meets the first Thursday of every month at 7pm at Champs. For more information contact the Australian Embassy. Friends of Canada www.ccch.hu Social activities for Canadians and friends. Viking Club www.vikingclub.hu Monthly get-together of Scandinavians at Longford Irish Pub. The Dutch Society www.nlclubhongarije.com Meets on the first Friday of every month at 7pm at Henry J Bean’s Bar and Grill. Open to all Dutch-speakers (Flemish and Afrikaans, as well!) American Chamber of Commerce www.amcham.hu British Chamber of Commerce www.bcch.com Budapest Chamber of Commerce and Industry www.bkik.hu Budapest Enterprise Agency www.bvk.hu Joint Venture Association www.jointventure.hu HUNGARIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY mkik@mkik.hu, www.mkik.hu CANADIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE IN HUNGARY kathy.casey@ccch.hu, www.ccch.hu HUNGARIAN-FRENCH CHAMBER OF COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY 06 1 317 8268 GERMAN-HUNGARIAN CHAMBER OF INDUSTRY AND COMMERCE ahkung@ahkungarn.hu www.duhik.hu

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GETTING XXXXXXXAROUND Arrival

Depending on traffic, driving time into the centre of the city runs 20-30 minutes, with travel to Buda taking 1030 minutes longer.

ewcomers generally arrive in Budapest by air at Liszt Ferenc International Airport’s terminal 2, 24 km southeast of the city centre. There are limousine and car services that can meet you at the airport and transport you to your destination. Alternatively, you can use the taxi service at the airport (currently Fötaxi has this contract). There’s a stand just outside the terminal, and all drivers speak enough English to communicate with passengers, though it may be helpful to have your address already written out to be on the safe side. Fares are based on the district you’re travelling to, with fares to downtown Pest averaging around HUF5000 and fares to Buda around HUF6000. Depending on traffic, driving time into the centre of the city runs 20-30 minutes, with travel to Buda taking 10-30 minutes longer. Beware of independent cab drivers who try to get your business – they have no fares posted and are a rip-off. There are also a number of car rental companies in Budapest, and cars can be picked up at the airport. You’ll need a valid driving licence, a passport and a credit card. If you book online you may receive a discount, and additional insurance is available on all rentals.

Budapest Airport

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GETTING XXXXXXX AROUND Another option is the Airport Minibus, which takes all passengers going to the same area for a flat fee of HUF2100. You can buy your ticket at the Airport Passenger Service desk. The city can also be accessed by a city bus that will drop you at Köbánya Kispest, the last stop at the southern end of the Blue Metro line. From terminal 1, where discount carriers land, there are also regular trains into the Nyugati Train Station (Nyugati Pályaudvar), which is in the centre of Pest, on the Blue Metro line.

Taxis

ost taxis are clean and reasonably priced, and you should round up to the nearest HUF100 when paying. The addition of an extra 10 percent tip is appreciated. While all operators can take orders in English, not all drivers are bilingual (or understand our attempts at Hungarian!) so it’s advisable to write out your destination on a piece of paper. Avoid hailing a taxi on the street, unless you want to pay almost twice as much as you would by ordering one by phone. The main companies are: • • • •

City Taxi (06 1 211 1111) Fotaxi (06 1 222 2222) Buda (06 1 233 3333) Tele5 (06 1 555 5555)

• 6x6 Taxi (06 1 266 6666) • Taxi 2000 (06 1 200 0000) • Radio Taxi (061 377 7777)

Avoid hailing a taxi on the street, unless you want to pay almost twice as much as you would by ordering one by phone.

Taxi queue at Budapest Airport

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GETTING XXXXXXXAROUND Public transportation

If you’ll be using public transit a lot, monthly passes are a great deal.

udapest has an excellent public transit system of subways, buses, trolleys, trams and electric commuter trains called HEV. Tickets are available at all Metro stations from automated machines, and most stations also have cashiers at ticket windows. As the machines aren’t always reliable, you’re best off buying from the cashier. Tickets can also be bought at some news stands, tram stops and on some buses, but to be safe you’re probably better off purchasing them at the Metro station and keeping a supply with you. Tickets can be bought individually, discounted in books of 10 or in the form of daily, weekly or monthly passes. If you’ll be using public transit a lot, monthly passes are a great deal. They’re good for all forms of transport within Budapest County and are valid for 30 days from the date of purchase. You’ll need a passportsize photo; there are photo machines in major Metro stations, with four photos costing HUF700. If you’re using a ticket as opposed to a pass, you need to validate it before starting your trip on the Metro or immediately upon boarding a bus, tram, trolley or commuter train. Insert the ticket into the machines at Metro station entrances and in the red or yellow boxes on trams, buses and trolleys. The yellow boxes automatically stamp the ticket, but you must

Tram in Budapest

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Bus in Budapest

pull the black lever on the red boxes to punch it. Tickets are valid for 60 minutes after stamping or for 90 minutes on the night service. Passes and tickets are checked by BKV inspectors at random and you’ll be fined HUF6000 on the spot if you can’t produce your pass or validated ticket. If fined, get a receipt, as foreigners can be overcharged by unscrupulous inspectors. Public transportation runs from 4:30am through 11pm and is both regular and frequent. Night trams and buses run on an abbreviated schedule. Schedules are posted at all stops and detailed system maps are posted in all Metro stations. Budapest has three subway lines, with a fourth under construction. The three existing lines all converge at Deák Ferenc tér in the heart of downtown Pest, where you can transfer at no additional charge to another line. The number 1 Yellow line was constructed for the millennium celebrations in 1896 and has been restored to its original style. It runs east-west through Pest. The number 3 Blue line basically runs north and south through Pest, with the number 2 Red line currently the only one linking Buda to Pest. The main tram line is the 4/6, which runs from Széll Kálmán tér (formerly

Passes and tickets are checked by BKV inspectors at random and you’ll be fined HUF6000 on the spot if you can’t produce your pass or validated ticket.

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GETTING XXXXXXXAROUND Moszkva tér) in Buda, across the Margit híd (bridge), around the large ring road through Pest and back over the Petöfi híd to Buda. Numerous older tram lines run throughout various parts of the city, and the bus and trolley system is extensive. Tickets are only valid for one trip, so if you need to transfer to another tram, bus or trolley or onto the Metro, you’ll have to validate another ticket. The number 2 tram runs along the Danube and is a fabulous way to see the city. The HEV runs to and from Csepel Island and Ráckeve in the south, Szentendre in the north and Gödöllö in the east.

Fare information • • • • • • • •

Tickets and passes: www.bkv.hu/english/jegyek/index.html Metro schedule: www.bkv.hu/english/metro/index.html Bus schedule: www.bkv.hu/english/busz/index.html Tram schedule: www.bkv.hu/english/villamos/index.html Trolley bus schedule: www.bkv.hu/english/troli/index.html Suburban schedule: www.bkv.hu/english/hev/index.html Night services: www.bkv.hu/english/ejszakai/index.html Other schedules (cogwheel, railway, chair lift, funicular, boat service): www.bkv.hu/english/egyeb/index.html

Walking

Beware when strolling on smaller streets, where dog owners do not always pick up after their pets.

est is a fabulous city for walking, with a number of cobblestone walking streets in the central core. The main one, Váci utca, runs from Vörösmarty tér (the main square in the heart of downtown) to the Vásárcsarnok (large indoor market hall), and is full of tourists much of the year. Pavements on the main avenues are quite wide and cleaned regularly, but beware when strolling on smaller streets, where dog owners do not always pick up after their pets. There are no pedestrian crossings at most major intersections; instead you cross by using a tunnel under the street.

HEV commuter train in Budapest

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GETTING XXXXXXX AROUND Buda, on the other hand, presents a bit more of a challenge with its rolling hills, but major arteries tend to follow the valleys in between and smaller streets often zigzag, with staircases for pedestrians from one level to the next in the central core.

Driving

on-EU citizens may drive with their existing driving licence for one year, after which they are required to apply for a Hungarian licence (EU citizens are no longer required to do so). It’s a complicated process that must be done in Hungarian, and requirements may vary from district to district. You need an application form from your district document office, along with a valid residence permit, a valid foreign driving licence along with a Hungarian translation, a passport and a medical examination. Your best bet is to hire a driving instructor or relocation expert to guide you through the process and acquaint you with the rules of the road. Driving in Budapest can initially be a challenge, with lots of one-way streets and few permitted left turns, though a GPS will certainly alleviate most of the difficulties. Note that you give way to the right when there are no signs. Traffic can be a nightmare in peak periods, and long traffic jams are not uncommon. You need to always keep your driving licence, a copy of your passport, your residence permit, third-party liability insurance documents and car registration documents in the car with you, but it’s illegal to leave them in the car; remember that police do spot checks. There are parking metres on every street downtown, and tickets should be visible inside the car. If you get a parking ticket, it’s cheaper to pay it the same day, which can be done at the metre itself or at the post office. Parking is free after 6pm and on weekends and national holidays downtown, and generally free in most suburban areas.

Non-EU citizens may drive with their existing driving licence for one year, after which they are required to apply for a Hungarian licence.

Seatbelts must be worn, and car seats or boosters must be used for children up to 150 cm or 12 years old, and they must be in the rear seat. It’s illegal to use hand-held mobile phones while driving, and Hungary has zero tolerance for drinking and driving. Right turns on red lights are not permitted, and right of way is always to the right, unless otherwise specified. Headlights must be turned on when driving outside the city limits, and stickers must be purchased for use of the highways. These should be purchased at service stations before entering the highway and can be bought for 4-day, weekly, monthly or annual time periods. It’s recommended that you keep your receipt as proof of purchase, as fines have been received when retailers have failed to properly enter the data into the system.

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MONEY XXXXXXX AND BANKING Currency

Many banks provide services in English, with at least one member of staff in a branch speaking the language, at least in central Budapest.

he only currency once used by a socialist European state and still in circulation is the Hungarian Forint (HUF). First introduced as the official currency in 1946, it was expected to have been replaced by the Euro by now, but this has been delayed until later in the decade. Coins come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 forint denominations and banknotes in 500, 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, 10,000 and 20,000 forint denominations. Note that when getting change you should never accept HUF200 notes, which have been discontinued – this is a common scam.

Banks

ou’ll need to provide your passport and proof of residence in order to open a bank account in Hungary. You’ll immediately receive your account number, but it can take up to two weeks to receive your bank card in the mail; you then call the bank (they speak English) to get a PIN. You can then activate your card. Accounts can be opened in either Hungarian forints or in a foreign currency. With personal accounts, there's a national depositor guarantee for the return of your money up to a certain limit, in case your bank becomes insolvent. Many banks provide services in English, with at least one member of staff in a branch speaking the language, at least in central Budapest. Regular hours are 9am-5pm, with most branches closing earlier on Fridays. Banks are not open on Saturdays, with the exception of some shopping mall locations, nor are any open on Sundays or national holidays. Even simple transactions at the bank can be time-consuming, so be prepared and always give yourself more time than you would normally anticipate.

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MONEY AND XXXXXXX BANKING Bank (debit) cards are used extensively, as are bank transfers for the payment of bills. Salaries are generally paid electronically.

ATMs

TMs are very common in Budapest and accessible any time. You may withdraw forints at the daily exchange rate from your home country accounts through the Cirrus and PLUS networks or via your credit card.

Exchanging money

Most people never think to use the airport ATMs, and pay higher rates by changing money in their home country.

ost places accept euros, but you’re probably better off using forints as you won’t get a very good exchange rate. There are exchange booths everywhere in central Pest but they may offer less favourable rates than using your bank card at an ATM. Beware of scam artists changing money on the street – if caught changing money with anyone other than an authorised change booth or bank, you could be arrested. The Hungarian forint is convertible back to any other currency but the buy rate is never as good as the sell rate, whether in an exchange booth or a bank. Coins are never accepted for exchange in any currency, so if you’ve accumulated a lot of them, you may want to try to use them up first before breaking more bills. You no longer have to retain your currency exchange receipts as proof of exchange. You should use an airport ATM rather than pay a higher rate by changing money in your home country. If you want to bypass queues, pay for your shuttle ride by credit card and then go to an ATM once you’ve settled into your hotel.

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GETTING XXXXXXXCONNECTED Mobile phones

Initially you may find making a phone call in Hungary somewhat confusing.

ungary has country-wide 3G coverage. Landlines are going the way of the dodo bird, and mobile phones are everywhere. You can either purchase a new phone or, if you have an unlocked mobile, you can purchase a new SIM card and sign up for mobile service with one of the local providers. There’s a variety of plans available; the least expensive is generally the pay-as-you-go option, and you should be able to find an English-speaking member of staff who can explain the various packages. The main providers are T-Mobile, Vodafone and Telenor, with locations throughout the city and in every mall. Remember to take your passport when you go to open an account. Initially you may find making a phone call in Hungary somewhat confusing. Hungary’s country code is 36 and Budapest’s area code is 1. All other area codes have 2 digits. Budapest phone numbers have 7 digits, all others only have 6. You must dial the national access code, 06, to place calls to a different area code. Mobile phone numbers vary according to the provider and are preceded by 06 20, 06 30 or 06 70. To call a cell phone, dial all 11 digits (i.e. 06 20 111 1111). To call a Budapest landline from a mobile phone, dial 06 1 and then the seven-digit number. To reach an international operator, dial 00. To call an international number, dial 00, then the country code, area code and number you’re calling. For outsiders calling Hungary, they must use their own country’s exit code and then Hungary’s country code, 36, before dialling the area code and phone number.

Internet

here are two main Internet service providers in Hungary: UPC (www. upc.hu) and T-Home (www.t-home.hu). There are also many smaller companies; a full list can be found on the Council of Hungarian Internet Providers' website (www.iszt.hu/iszt/english).

If you opt for a telephone line connection, be aware that line usage charges may be charged on top of your basic Internet usage.

There are Wi-Fi sites throughout Budapest. In most cases it’s free, but some establishments do charge a nominal usage fee.

Post

s a variety of services are offered at the post office, you’ll find that there are many outlets in every district but hours can vary, with the ones in the malls tending to stay open later. Both bills and parking tickets can be paid there, often resulting in long lines, so be prepared to wait. Damaged paper currency is exchanged at a bank or post office.

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GETTING CONNECTED XXXXXXX For those residing in a flat, the street name is written first, followed by the street number, the floor number and then the flat number (Rozsa utca 99 IV. 29). The second and third numbers in the postal code refer to the district where the street is located (1064 would be the sixth district, 1123 would be the twelfth). Technically, packages for mailing must be wrapped, secured with heavy duty tape and tied with a string in a bow, which can then be taped to the package. Some post offices will ignore this last requirement.

Courier There are a number of international courier services available: • UPS 06 1 877 0000, www.ups. com/content/hu/en/ index.jsx • Royal Sprint Courier Service 06 1 216 3606, www.royal.hu

• DHL 06 40 454 545, www.dhl.hu • Fedex 06 29 511 900, www.fedex.com/hu

Letters are addressed in the following manner: Name Budapest Rozsa utca 99 Hungary 1064

Packages for mailing must be wrapped, secured with heavy duty tape and tied with a string in a bow.

Post box in Budapest

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XXXXXXX

helping others to be the best they can be

62 CONTACT admissions@bisb.hu TO ARRANGE A VISIT TO OUR SCHOOL OR TO ORDER OUR PROSPECTUS

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GETTING CONNECTED XXXXXXX Media

here are a few English-language newspapers in Hungary. The Budapest Times is published weekly and is available at news stands, through home delivery or online. Their coverage is independent and unbiased and offers in-depth stories on politics, business, economy, social issues, culture and the arts. www.budapesttimes.hu The Budapest Business Journal (BBJ) is a weekly publication that focuses on economic, financial and business issues. Subscriptions are available. www. bbj.hu Funzine is an English-language lifestyle and events magazine that comes out twice monthly and covers just about everything going on in the city. It’s free and available at any number of locations throughout the city. www. funzine.hu

International English-language magazines and newspapers are somewhat difficult to find, but can be purchased at some news stands and in some bookstores.

Time Out is another events and lifestyle magazine published monthly. International English-language magazines and newspapers are somewhat difficult to find, but can be purchased at some news stands and bookstores. The news stands in the lower level of MOM Park or in Mammut 1 by Match are good sources, as is Bestsellers at Október 6 utca 11 in District V.

Websites

n addition to those listed above, there are many more websites geared to the English-speaking expat community in Budapest, providing everything from local news to restaurant reviews.

• Budapest Week www.budapestweek.com Happenings in and around Budapest.

• Expatecho www.moveoneinc.com/expat-echo Advice and information for expats.

• Caboodle www.caboodle.hu Great source of information and services for expats.

• Expats Hungary www.expatshungary.com Local news, events and other information.

• Central Europe www.centraleurope.com Up-to-date local news for all of central Europe.

• Xpatloop www.xpatloop.com Advice and information.

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HEALTH XXXXXXX CARE Jet lag There are no safety issues with the Hungarian food supply, unless you count the calories and fat content in traditional cuisine!

et lag, although a temporary disorder, can cause havoc when trying to adjust to a new city. While fatigue and insomnia are the most common symptoms, it can also cause anxiety, irritability, confusion, constipation, diarrhea, dehydration, headaches, nausea, concentration and coordination problems and memory loss. Irregular heartbeats and weakened immune systems, though rare, have also been reported. Generally, the more time zones you cross, the greater the jet lag. There are a number of easy things you can do to minimise the effects of jet lag. Gradually ease into your new time schedule while still in your home country so that you won’t have to adjust all at once. You can do this by going to bed an hour earlier each week leading up to your departure. Avoid alcohol and caffeine for a day or two before, during and after flying, and drink plenty of water. Break up your trip if travelling over many time zones and, upon arrival, adapt to the local time zone as quickly as possible. Try not to nap, get out in some sunlight and stay up until your regular bedtime in the new time zone.

Water

ap water in Hungary is safe to drink, though if you’re in an older building you may want to have it checked for lead content. Bottled water is plentiful and generally served in restaurants, although some will serve tap water if requested. For bottled water, a blue top means fizzy; green is lightly carbonated and pink is natural.

Food

here are no safety issues with the Hungarian food supply, unless you count the calories and fat content in traditional cuisine!

Health care

espite having a slightly lower life expectancy than in many Western countries, Hungary has a relatively good standard of health and a low incidence of disease, with the exception of an intermediate risk of Hepatitis A, bacterial diarrhea and tick-borne encephalitis. Respiratory conditions such as asthma may be aggravated by allergies and air pollution. There are no vaccinations required for entering Hungary, although there are requirements for school admission. You should bring your children’s vaccination schedule, and you may want to also consider the hepatitis or tick vaccine, especially the latter if you intend to spend a great deal of time outdoors and in the woods. Some physicians recommend the tuberculosis vaccine BCG; consult your doctor before arriving.

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HEALTH XXXXXXX CARE Hungary has a national health care system, funded by various contributions and taxes, that is free to all citizens, as well as expats employed by Hungarian companies and British nationals, as Hungary and the UK have a reciprocal health agreement. Other EU citizens are entitled to ambulant care, with the costs being reimbursed up to the equivalent costs in their home country. First aid and emergency treatment is free for both residents and tourists alike. There are no extra fees for services, with the exception of drugs, dental care and rehabilitation. Many Hungarians ‘tip’ their doctor in the hope that this will provide them with better care and faster service – this can mean appointments are arranged much sooner. Although the government is trying to discourage this practice, it’s difficult when salaries are so low.

The majority of expats prefer to use private medical clinics and hospitals.

There are expats who rely completely on the public system and, for the most part, they have few complaints. The majority, however, prefer to use private medical clinics and hospitals, both for communication reasons and for the quality of the facilities. English-speaking doctors are not always easy to find in the public system and, while there are some new and ultra-modern facilities in Budapest, most of them are old and not up to the standards most expats are used to and expect. Private clinics generally charge expats a much higher rate; most will process your insurance claims for you, but be sure to confirm this ahead of time. Dental tourism has become quite a large industry in Hungary, as prices remain low in comparison to other countries. Quality is equal to that found elsewhere and Austrians, for example, flock across the border for much cheaper care.

Emergencies

n an emergency, call 104 (ambulance) or 112 (emergency), both of which can take calls in English. The lack of specialist emergency departments in hospitals has resulted in a highly skilled and well-equipped ambulance service capable of providing extensive medical care onsite. Ambulances are either basic, emergency or mobile intensive care units, and are manned by paramedics or physicians, depending on the level of service. They’re available 24 hours in all parts of the city, and helicopter or plane transfer is also available in more remote locations. It’s generally not advisable to go directly to a public hospital yourself, as not all hospitals have emergency departments and emergency services can rotate between facilities. People with a valid health insurance plan must have their ID card and their medical insurance card ready. If you’re using a private clinic for your health care, check if it provides a 24-hour medical emergency line.

The lack of specialist emergency departments in hospitals has resulted in a highly skilled and well-equipped ambulance service capable of providing extensive medical care onsite.

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HEALTH XXXXXXX CARE Pharmacies

Each district has a 24-hour pharmacy, and a sign on the door of any pharmacy will direct you to the closest one.

harmacies, called either Patika or Gyógyszertár, are plentiful in Budapest and usually have a sign with a green cross, making them easy to identify. They’re generally well-stocked and can provide medications for most ailments. Each district has a 24-hour pharmacy, and a sign on the door of any pharmacy will direct you to the closest one. Drugs are relatively inexpensive in Hungary, but most pharmacies do not accept foreign insurance, nor are there electronic files in most locations. Remember to get a receipt if you can claim reimbursement. If you have refills remaining on your prescription, it will be returned to you. Many products that are readily available over the counter in other countries either require a prescription or must be specifically requested, and can often be considerably more expensive than at home. It may be advantageous to stock up on a variety of OTC medications to bring along with you if you want to ensure that you have what you need when you need it! Óbuda Gyógyszertár 1032 Budapest, Vörösvári út 84 (06 1 388 6142) Deli Gyógyszertár 1123 Budapest, Alkotas utca 1/b (06 1 355 4691)

Preparations

t’s probably wise to have a health check-up prior to coming to Hungary, and to ensure that you have an adequate supply of any required medications. If you have specific medical issues, you should bring along any relevant reports and records so that your new physician has a comprehensive overview of your condition and treatment plan. Although no vaccinations are required to enter Hungary, you may want to discuss this issue with your doctor.

Insurance

ost expats have insurance coverage arranged through their employers, but do review the coverage to see if any supplemental coverage is required. If so, it’s generally less expensive to purchase this in your home country than in Hungary. Regardless of where you purchase your insurance, study the fine print closely as plans vary widely between providers and you don’t want to be caught without adequate coverage.

Medical centres

ost expats choose to have their health care needs met at one of the private medical centres, and if they require hospitalisation there are

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HEALTH XXXXXXX CARE some very nice private hospitals in and around Budapest. Bethesda Children’s Hospital 1140 Budapest, Bethesda utca 3-5 (06 1 364 9020, www.bethesda.hu, bethesda@ bethesda.hu) Open 24 hours Dr. Rose Private Hospital 1051 Budapest, Roosevelt tér 7-8 (06 1 377 6737, www.drrose.hu, info@drrose.hu) Available 24 hours via telephone to register an appointment FirstMed Centers 1015 Budapest, Hattyú utca 14 (06 1 224 9090, www.firstmedcenters.com, info@ firstmedcenters.com) Mon-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat 9am-2pm, plus 24-hour hotline

Emergency numbers • Ambulance: 104 • Police: 107 • Fire: 105 • English language crimeline: 06 1 438 8080

Medicover Health Center 1037 Budapest, Szépvölgyi Business Park, Montevideo utca 5 / 1132 Budapest, Westend Healthcare Centre, Váci út 22-24 (06 1 465 3100, www.medicover.hu, info@ medicover.hu) Mon-Thurs 7am-7pm, Fri 7am-3pm Pasarét Dental Clinic 1026 Budapest, Pasaréti út 8 (06 1 488 7919, www.pasaretdental.hu, klinika@ pasaretdental.hu) Mon-Thurs 8am-6pm, Fri 8am-4pm Profident 1075 Budapest, Károly Körút 1 (06 1 342 2546, www.profident.com, office@profident. com) Mon-Sat 8am-9pm RÓzsakert Medical Center 1026 Budapest, Gábor Áron utca 74-78/a (06 1 392 0505, www.medical-center.hu, info@medical-center.hu) Mon-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat 9am-2pm, plus 24-hr hotline S.O.S. Dental Non-stop Dentistry 1061 Budapest, Király utca 14 (06 1 269 6010, www.nonstopdentist.com, info@sosdent. hu) Open 24 hours Telki Hospital 2089 Telki, Kórház Fasor 1 (06 40 372 300, www.telkikorhaz.hu, info@telkikorhaz.hu) Available 24 hours upon appointment

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XXXXXXX TEMPORARY ACCOMMODATION Temporary accommodation

Most of the global brand hotels are in downtown Pest.

f you’re not moving directly into your home upon arrival, Budapest has a wide range of temporary accommodation options, from hotels to apartment hotels to short-term rental apartments. The option you choose depends in part on how long you need to stay there. Five-star hotels may be great for a short-term stay, but get rather pricey as the weeks fly by.

Hotels

ost of the global brand hotels are in downtown Pest, as are smaller boutique hotels which have been popping up in recent years, offering a unique alternative to formula design brands. Five-star hotels offer all the amenities a seasoned traveller is accustomed to, and four-star hotels are also fine. You may want to view anything with lower ratings before booking, as it might not be up to international standards. Three stars in Hungary can sometimes seem generous. The following five-star hotels are in District V in the heart of Pest, with a fabulous view over the Danube, the Chain Bridge and the Castle. Intercontinental Hotel Apaczai Csere Janos u. 12-14 (06 1 327 6333, www.budapest.intercontinental.com) Marriott Hotel Apaczai Csere Janos u. 4 (06 1 486 5000, www.marriott.com) Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Roosevelt tér 5-6 (06 1 268 6000, www.fourseasons.com/budapest) Stunning renovation of a classical building.

The Four Seasons Hotel, Budapest

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TEMPORARY ACCOMMODATION XXXXXXX Other excellent hotels in Pest: Corinthia Grand Hotel Erzsabet korut 43-49, District VII (06 1 479 4000, www.corinthia.com/Budapest) Another stunning restoration. Kempinski Hotel Corvinus Erzsabet tér 7-8, District V (06 1 429 3777, www.kempinski.com/es/budapest) Sofitel Hotel Roosevelt tér 2 (06 1 266 1234, www.sofitel.com/Budapest) Le Meridien Erzsebet tér 9, District V (06 1 429 5500, www.lemeridienbudapest.com)

The Intercontinental Hotel in Budapest

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XXXXXXX TEMPORARY ACCOMMODATION Boutique hotels: MAMAISON Andrássy Budapest 1063 Budapest, Andrássy út 111 (06 1 462 2100, www.mamaison.com/budapest) Boutique Hotel Zara 1056 Budapest, Só utca 6 (06 1 577 0700, www.zarahotels.com) Soho Boutique Hotel 1074 Budapest, Dohány utca 64 (06 1 872 8210, www.sohoboutiquehotel.com) Atrium Fashion Hotel 1081 Budapest, Csokonai utca 14 (06 1 299 0777, www.atriumhotelbudapest.com) Hotel Palazzo Zichy 1088 Budapest, Lörinc pap tér 2 (06 1 235 4001, www.hotel-palazzo-zichy.hu)

Four-star hotels K&K Hotel Opera Revay utca 24, District VI (06 1 269 0222, www.en.kkhotels.com) Radisson Blu Beke Hotel Budapest Terez korut 43, District VI (06 1 889 3900, www.radissonblu.com)

The Andrássy Hotel, Budapest

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TEMPORARY ACCOMMODATION XXXXXXX Budget hotels: Budapest Károly Central 1075 Budapest, Károly Körút 3/A (06 1 327 0930, www.centralbudapesthotels.com)

Apartment hotels: Queens Court Hotel Dob utca 63, District VII (06 1 878 0300, www.queenscourt.hu) A new five-star all-suites hotel in Pest with full kitchen facilities. Millennium Court – Marriott Executive Apartments Pesti Barnabas utca 4, District V (06 1 235 1800, www.marriott.com) Studio, one- and two-bedroom apartments in the heart of the city with 24-hour staffing. The Mamaison Residence Izabella Budapest Izabella utca 61, District VI (06 1 475 5900, www.mamaison.com/budapest.html) A four-star facility just off the UNESCO-protected Andrássy út, offering spacious and quiet suites with kitchenettes and free Wi-Fi and buffet breakfast. Starlight Suites Hotel Merleg Merleg utca 6, District V (06 1 484 3700, www.starlighthotels.com) Adina Apartment Hotel Hegedus Gyula utca 52-54, District XIII (06 1 236 8888, www.adina.eu) There are fewer hotels in Buda, but there’s still a good range of options.

Five-star: Hilton Hotel Hess A. tér 1-3, District I (06 1 889 6600, www.hilton.com/Budapest) Located in the Castle district, offering great Danube and city views.

Four-star Danubius Gellert Hotel Szent Gettert tér 1, District XI (06 1 889 5500, www.danubiushotels.com) While the Gellert Hotel has not been updated recently, it’s in an impressive Art Nouveau building overlooking the Danube and provides free access to the famous Gellert Spa & Baths, which are housed in the same building. For a night or two, it may be worth it!

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XXXXXXX TEMPORARY ACCOMMODATION Normafa Hotel Eotvos ut 52-54, District XII (06 1 395 6505, www.normafahotel.com) This hotel is up in the hills in a quiet, forested area. Hotel Castle Garden Lovas utca 41, District I (06 1 224 7420, www.hotelcastlegarden.hu) Art‘Otel Budapest Bem Rakpart 16-19, District I (06 1 487 9487, www.artotels.com) On the river.

Boutique hotels: Buda Castle Fashion Hotel Uri utca 9, District I (06 1 224 7900, www.budacastlehotelbudapest.com) Lanchid 19 Design Hotel Lanchid utca 19-21, District I (06 1 419 1900, www.lanchid19hotel.hu)

Budget hotels: Best Western Orion Hotel Dobrentei ut 13, District I (06 1 356 8583, www.book.bestwestern.com)

Apartment hotels: St George Residence Fortuna utca 4, District I (06 1 393 5700, www.stgeorgehotelbudapest.com) Hotel Charles &Apartments Budapest Hegyalja utca 23, District I (06 1 212 9169, www.charleshotel.hu)

Short-term apartment rentals

The Baths at the Danubius Gellert Hotel, Budapest

There are hundreds of furnished apartments available on a short-term rental basis on the Internet, but looks can be deceiving. Rather than booking something before you leave, you may want to spend a few nights in a hotel before committing to an apartment, especially if you’ll be staying there for more than a few nights. Another option is to use the services of a relocation company. They will have many existing contacts and this should help ensure that you’re not disappointed. Apartments will generally be more spacious and much less expensive than an extended hotel stay. Before signing an agreement, always check the length of the lease, the rental fee, the use of utilities and the security deposit, and do an inventory checklist both when moving in and when leaving.

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FINDING XXXXXXXHOUSING Finding housing

Most families with school-age children choose to live in the residential areas of Buda, where the international schools are.

here are many wonderful areas in Budapest in which to settle, and each family is going to have to carefully consider their own situation and determine their priorities before making a decision. Most families with school-age children choose to live in the residential areas of Buda, where the international schools are, while childless couples tend to prefer being in the centre of the action in Pest. There are many things to consider. How large is your family and how much space will you need? Do you want a single-family home or would you prefer a flat? How important are green space and safe, outdoor play areas to you? Are there children in the neighbourhood? Where is your children’s school, and is there bus service? How many cars do you have? Do you need to be close to public transportation? Where is your place of work, and how much of a commute are you willing to make? What stores and services are nearby? Do you want to rent or buy? Furnished or unfurnished? In the current economic environment, there’s an abundance of rental properties available in Budapest. These range from single-family homes to classical or contemporary flats. If you’re looking at renting a larger house for at least two to three years, there’s a good chance you’ll have to ship your furnishings to Hungary or purchase new ones here, as most homes of this size are not furnished.

House in Budapest District II

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House in Budapest District II

Unfurnished properties generally contain kitchen appliances, and there may be some built-in wardrobes and light fixtures. Furnished properties typically contain everything needed, from furniture to linens to houseware, though you’ll inevitably need to fill in some gaps. A detailed inventory will list all items. Obviously furnished properties have higher rent than unfurnished ones. It’s certainly worth considering using a relocation firm when searching for your new home. They’re fully conversant with the legalities and can negotiate on your behalf with real estate agents, who generally have no incentive to push for a reduction in the rent. They can also assist you with arranging your utilities and services – this can be a nightmare for non-Hungarian-speakers, who can quickly be overcome by the long lines, the lack of English-speaking staff and the seemingly endless stacks of paperwork.

Arranging your utilities and services can be a nightmare for non-Hungarianspeakers, who can quickly be overcome by the long lines, the lack of Englishspeaking staff and the seemingly endless stacks of paperwork.

Types of housing

est is the business, commercial and cultural centre of the city, and the architecture in the core is truly spectacular. The city underwent a construction boom unprecedented in Europe in the years leading up to its millennium celebrations in 1896, and neoclassical buildings line streets large and small in all the central districts. Restoration of these magnificent buildings has been ongoing since the fall of communism,

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FINDING XXXXXXXHOUSING and it’s not unusual to see a freshly restored building next to one still displaying bullet holes from the 1956 Revolution. As you go further out, you’ll find lots of former villas and estates on the winding residential streets, many broken up into smaller flats.

Inside, you’ll find flats with towering windows and doors and 12-foot ceilings, along with original oak parquet floors. These flats surround a central courtyard bordered by the original iron railings, and some have small French balconies overlooking the street. Many of these flats have been renovated, and there are plenty available for rent in Districts V and VI, with Districts VII and VIII also popular in recent years. Modern buildings housing contemporary apartments are interspersed among the old, where renovation of the original building was not possible. Rents can vary significantly, depending on size, neighbourhood, location of the flat within the building and overall quality and condition of the building. Flats overlooking the Danube are considerably more expensive to rent than ones without this panoramic view. As side streets tend to be narrow, the higher the floor the brighter the flat, and often the higher the price. Flats in renovated buildings with new lifts command a higher price than those in buildings that have not been recently updated. Newly-built flats often have higher rents and also usually have balconies and parking, which most older buildings cannot provide. Additional costs on top of rent generally include common fees, gas, electricity, water, Internet, cable and phone. Parking may also be an added expense. Most expats with children live in Buda, where there’s an abundance of green space and single-family homes, and where most of the international schools are. There’s also much greater variety in residential options. Larger buildings line the main thoroughfares and the streets in the core areas closest to the Danube, but in general these are of 20th-century construction and not as impressive as in central Pest. They’re filled with flats, and the same conditions apply as in Pest. As you go further out, you’ll find lots of former villas and estates on the winding residential streets, many broken up into smaller flats. The smaller ones were originally hunters’ cottages, and the larger ones were aristocrats’ summer homes. Most of these have been renovated, but they should be closely examined as quality can vary dramatically.

Right - classic Hungarian flats

Newer single-family homes are also available and range in both size and in extras; some have saunas, swimming pools or Jacuzzis. They tend not to be furnished, but they will include parking and gardens. Additional costs could include garden and pool maintenance charges, in addition to utilities and services.

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Mansion in prestigious area of Budapest

Old house in the Castle district

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The rolling hills of Buda

Apartment on the Danube

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GETTING XXXXXXXSETTLED Furnishing your home

There’s a large array of quality furniture stores in Budapest to choose from, with contemporary design most plentiful.

here are plenty of furnished flats available for expats who aren’t shipping their furniture to Budapest, but these furnishings can vary in both quality and quantity, so it’s not a good idea to rent a place sight unseen. Appliances tend to be small by North American standards, and dryers tend to be the exception rather than the rule. Some expats negotiate with their landlord if they find the inventory not quite up to their standards; the higher the rent, the more likely you are to be successful in negotiating changes or additions. Others choose to purchase items themselves and either sell them before departure or ship them home. There’s a large array of quality furniture stores in Budapest to choose from, with contemporary design most plentiful. Király utca and surrounding streets in downtown Pest are home to a number of trendy furniture and interior design shops, and other shops can be found scattered throughout the city. Kéttemplom Galléria in Pest offers sophisticated Hungarian country furniture and accessories with a French country feel, and La Meridiana in Buda offers Mediterranean decor. If your taste runs to antiques, there are numerous antique shops throughout the city in which to browse. Many dealers can be found on Falk Miska utca, which runs parallel to the Danube in central Pest, as well as at the Ecseri Piac, a huge flea market in the outer reaches of Pest. Not surprisingly, there are two IKEAs – one in Buda and one in Pest – as well as two Kikas (an Austrian chain similar to IKEA), two Inkus and two Domus, all offering affordable furniture and a variety of household items. The Budapest Design Guide is published twice yearly and is an invaluable resource if you’re looking for higher quality shops and services. It’s available

IKEA in Budapest

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GETTING XXXXXXX SETTLED free of charge in participating shops throughout the city, with text in English as well as Hungarian. There’s a website (www.budapestdesignguide.hu) as well, but only in Hungarian, so you’ll probably have to use an online translator to make use of it.

Laundry Virtually all rentals come with a washing machine, but dryers are not as common (though many landlords renting to expats include them). If necessary, they can be purchased at a number of big box stores such as Auchan, Cora, Media Markt and Saturn. Dry cleaners can be found throughout the city, but laundromats are few and far between.

Live-in domestic help is not common in Hungary, and most expats hire help on a weekly basis for cleaning, laundry and ironing.

Domestic help

ive-in domestic help is not common in Hungary, and most expats hire help on a weekly basis for cleaning, laundry and ironing. Some people will also do cooking and child care. Services are generally very good and relatively inexpensive. The best way to find good, reliable help is through word of mouth, but you can also check notice boards at schools and grocery stores.

Child care

s mentioned above, some domestic help will also provide child care, and word of mouth is the best way to find someone. You can also check out www.sitters.hu, a local database for babysitters, and either www.greataupair.com or www.newaupair.com for au pairs. Some of the expat organisations also organise play groups, including the North American Women’s Association (www.nawabudapest.com) and the British Women’s Association (http://bwa.expatshungary.com).

Auchan in Budapest

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CULTURE XXXXXXX SHOCK Culture Shock Depending on your own awareness of culture shock, as well as the amount of support you receive, it can last anywhere from a few weeks to a few months.

Culture shock is the inability to understand and react to what’s going on around you. For example, the first time you go out shopping and realise that you can’t read the labels on the food at the supermarket or try to decipher a menu at a restaurant, many thoughts may run through your mind – you may feel uncomfortable or totally unable to control the situation. Experiencing a feeling of helplessness is common and to be expected. Helplessness easily turns into frustration and stress. The way people react to stress varies. Some feel depressed and isolated, some become irritable and some react with cultural chauvinism – giving the impression that the way they do things back home is the best way, and locals are just not clever enough to figure it out. Depending on your own awareness of culture shock, as well as the amount of support you receive, it can last anywhere from a few weeks to a few months. Experts say that almost everyone experiences culture shock in stages.

STAGE 1 What a wonderful world! In this initial stage, Budapest can do no wrong. It’s thrilling to see Eastern Europe up close. Interactions with the locals are seen as small victories, the food is wonderful – even if you can barely identify it – and each excursion is an adventure into a new land to be laboriously retold to friends and family back home.

STAGE 2 What in the world are you doing here? After a while, the euphoria of new travel fades. Your brain begins to notice patterns in your routines and the feeling of being an outsider sets in. It gets tiring to walk in crowds, dodge taxis who lay on their horn as if it was your fault for being on the pedestrian crossing. Trying to learn basic Hungarian is too difficult and seems pointless. In this stage, you may find yourself spending a lot of time on the phone or Internet complaining about Budapest, perhaps daydreaming of being back home.

STAGE 3 The day will come when you meet new friends who’ve been here less time than you.

Budapest is your new home. The day will come when you meet new friends who’ve been here less time than you. It’s somehow a pleasure to offer them pointers. You know some Hungarian – enough to order food, direct a taxi driver and greet your neighbours. There are social events to attend and a trip to the post office is no longer so daunting an obstacle.

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CULTURE XXXXXXX SHOCK Get a Grip So what should you do to keep culture shock under control? There are measures you can take to mitigate the negative aspects. 1) Get to know your immediate locale. You may be in a foreign city, but being familiar with a few neighbourhood restaurants, markets and green areas will at least allow you to feel that you have control over your immediate domain. 2) Start a journal. This is an invaluable tool. A journal will force you to reflect on your own feelings and consequently get you thinking about ways to control them. It will also be a priceless experience to read it a year later when you’re an old hand in Budapest.

A journal will force you to reflect on your own feelings and consequently get you thinking about ways to control them.

3) Sign up for a Hungarian class. Knowing even a few phrases right away makes a big difference when speaking to the neighbourhood shopkeeper. It’s also a good way to meet other expats. 4) Gain a new perspective. After all, you’re in an entirely new place. Try to be an explorer and see things existentially, learning from a unique and ancient culture. Keep in mind that when Hungarian people visit your country, they experience culture shock as well.

Left - Shoes on the Danube is a memorial created in honour of the Jews who perished in World War II. Next page Hungarian Parliament

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EDUCATION XXXXXXX

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XXXXXXX EDUCATION

EDUCATION IN

BUDAPEST CHOOSING A SCHOOL

ne of the biggest concerns of parents when they learn that they will be relocating overseas is how their children will adjust and be educated. “Will they be happy? Will they be safe? Will they be able to reintegrate when they return home?” These are all questions that parents ask themselves before departure. What they learn upon arrival in Budapest is that the city has a wide array of educational choices available, including world-class schools like The British International School Budapest. Parents are quickly comforted with the knowledge that their children will be safe, happy and well educated.

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EDUCATION XXXXXXX Primary and secondary schooling

Admissions departments recommend applying by early March, as most schools begin finalising their rosters at that time.

ungarian schools offer creche facilities from the age of 6 months, nurseries from the age of 3, primary school from 6-7 years of age and a wide variety of grammar schools and vocational secondary schools from the age of 12 or 14. This schooling is almost exclusively in Hungarian, though some dual-language schools exist alongside in a number of languages (English, German, Spanish and others). However, few Hungarian schools provide lessons for non-native speakers. Hungarian as a Second Language examinations do exist however, making it possible for a student with a fair knowledge of the language to attend Hungarian school. The Hungarian érettségi school-leaving examination is accepted for university admission in a good number of countries. On the international front, there are many privately-run creches and nurseries in a number of languages. There’s also a range of schools offering various curricula in a variety of languages, some with their own nurseries taking children from the age of 3, and taking them right

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EDUCATION XXXXXXX

through to university entrance examinations. The largest is the Englishspeaking group of schools, which offer either the American or British national curriculum, followed by either A-levels or the International Baccalaureate. There are also private schools offering bilingual (Hungarian-English, Hungarian-Spanish) education with a curriculum incorporating elements from both systems. In addition, there are schools following the national curriculum of their particular country – German, Austrian, French and Russian schools, for example – as well as some supplementary schools offering after-school or weekend tuition for students attending mainstream schools in a language other than their mother tongue – Dutch, Chinese, Italian, Japanese, Polish and others. All in all, there’s a wide variety, in terms of both language and curriculum offered, so that usually all requirements can be met for international families coming to live in Budapest.

All in all, there’s a wide variety, in terms of both language and curriculum offered, so that usually all requirements can be met for international families coming to live in Budapest.

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EDUCATION XXXXXXX Tips for Choosing a School Research throughout the world has consistently indicated that good teachers are the key element of children’s developmental and academic success.

Parents who have been through the process before say that finding the right school for your child starts with asking the right questions. In Budapest, expat families have a variety of schools from which to choose. The choices range from prestigious international schools to local schools. No two schools are the same, including the ones with multiple campuses. Institutions can vary in terms of curriculum, facilities, size, cost, location, activities, philosophy and sometimes even in teacher experience. Before you pick up a single brochure, contact an admissions officer or set foot on a campus, prepare to request answers to these three key questions: 1) What is the student to teacher ratio, and what certifications do teachers have? 2) How will this school prepare my child for university? and 3) Does this school provide an environment in which my child will thrive? 1) What is the student to teacher ratio, and what certifications do teachers have? Research throughout the world has consistently indicated that good teachers are the key element of children’s developmental and academic success. Furthermore, quality teachers are able to thrive when the student to teacher ratio is low. Smaller class sizes permit teachers to attend to the

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EDUCATION XXXXXXX needs of each individual student and be innovative in presenting course material and facilitating learning. Be sure to ask admissions officers about teachers’ qualifications and school class sizes. Follow up by visiting a few classrooms and feeling the atmosphere. 2) How will this school prepare my child for university? If your child is in secondary school, then knowing which country your child wants to head to after graduation will help determine which curriculum is best suited for them. American universities are familiar with the British curriculum and vice versa. The IB programme is recognised worldwide. Students who plan to study in the UK or Asia (other than mainland China) are best served by preparing for and taking IGCSE exams in Year 11. Likewise, though Canadian and Australian students have a bit more flexibility, most parents prefer to educate their children in the British curriculum. The British International School Budapest offers IB options (either the more intensive diploma programme or the certificate programme) for Years 12 and 13. Of course, an IB diploma is portable and both American- and British-system schools offer the IB programme.

Visiting a school offers the most valuable insight into whether the school is right for your child.

3) Does this school provide an environment in which my child will thrive? Ultimately, selecting a school comes down to personal taste. It’s tempting to try to generalise, but the fact is a large student body does not automatically mean a school is impersonal. Likewise, a small student body does not automatically mean a school lacks in course or activity options. If you can, visit the school and get a sense of the atmosphere. Read school marketing materials critically to determine their emphasis. Most importantly, talk to other parents. Ask what they like about the school and what they would change. Make the most of your school visit by paying attention to the tone of classrooms as well as general areas, noting interactions between students and teachers and among students themselves. Here are some additional questions that parents report are helpful when gauging a school: • • • • • • •

What is the annual turnover rate of teachers? What percentage of teachers are certified to teach in their home country? What IB classes are available? Which are the most popular? What foreign languages are available and are students required to study Hungarian? Where do graduates go to university? What extracurricular activities are available? What community service opportunities are available?

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EDUCATION XXXXXXX Universities

With both academic excellence and lower tuition than in many other European countries, it’s not surprising that so many foreign students flock here.

ungary is home to 20 state-funded universities, 11 of them in Budapest, along with six private or church-funded institutions. There are also 21 state-funded colleges in the country, three in Budapest. An additional 22 private or church-funded colleges are spread throughout the country, seven in Budapest. Applicants must have graduated from high school and are required to pass entrance exams in two subjects, with written and oral sections. In the 1980s, several post-secondary institutions launched programmes in languages other than Hungarian and, over the past decade, Hungary has become the destination of choice in central Europe. With both academic excellence and lower tuition than in many other European countries, it’s not surprising that so many foreign students flock here. Today almost all the institutions of higher education offer foreign-language instruction, either with full degree programmes or more limited student exchange possibilities. Medical and health sciences (Dentistry, Pharmacy, Veterinary Science, Kinesiology, Psychology, Physical Education) programmes account for 30 percent of all international students in Hungary. Hungarian medical degrees are recognised by the World Health Organisation and all degrees are automatically accepted in the EU. Engineering, Architecture, Economics and Business are other specialties open to English-language students. The Budapest University of Technology and Economics, Corvinus University of Budapest and Semmelweiss University are the largest state-funded institutions offering these programmes in Budapest. Central European University is a private institution in Budapest which offers English-language programmes at the master’s and doctoral level in the humanities, social sciences, law and management. It’s accredited in both the US and Europe. Budapest University of Technology and Economics 1111 Budapest, Müegyetem rakpart 3-9 (06 1 463 1111, www.bme.hu) Corvinus University of Budapest 1093 Budapest, Fövám tér 8 (06 1 218 6855, www.uni-corvinus.hu) Central European University 1051 Budapest, Nádor utca 9 (06 1 327 3000, www.ceu.hu) Semmelweiss University 1085 Budapest, Üllöi út 26 (06 1 459 1500, www.sote.hu)

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earning Hungarian is definitely a challenge, but if you’re up to it it will make your life in Budapest significantly easier. Both language schools and private tutors abound, so lack of options is no excuse! One of the most highly rated programmes is the Budapest branch of the Debrecen Summer School, which is affiliated with the University of Debrecen, offering both evening and short-term intensive courses. Another well thought-of school is the Balassi Institute in District I. It’s state-funded and offers courses at all levels. Debreceni Nyári Egyetem Budapesti Nyelviskolája (Debrecen Summer School) 1055 Budapest, Báthory utca 4 (06 1 320 5751, 30 928 6577, www.nyariegyetem.hu) Balassi Institute 1016 Budapest, Somlói út 51 (06 1 381 5100, 06 1 381 5119, www.bbi.hu)

It’s important to note that learning Hungarian is difficult if you’re only attending class a few hours each week. If you’re serious about learning the language then attend class at least three times a week and seize the opportunity to practise with your colleagues or friends whenever possible.

Budapest University of Technology and Economics

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The British International School is part of Nord Anglia Education – a world leader in delivering education excellence.

Our School by Jane Thompson Principal The British International School Budapest, Hungary

“The British International School Budapest is an environment of respect, intercultural understanding and integrity. It is a community where everyone feels involved, valued and successful. Our school is a place where individuals make a difference.”

The school is characterised by its vibrant, warm and friendly atmosphere, which ensures that members of the community feel involved and valued.

he British International School Budapest offers the English National Curriculum and IGCSE courses followed by the International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme, respected worldwide as an academically rigorous qualification and excellent preparation for success at university. These curricula all provide a coherent and structured framework from which our talented and highly professional staff can create a student-centred learning experience which supports critical and compassionate thinking, as well as independent creativity. Parents appreciate the thorough and transparent assessment which allows detailed tracking and analysis of pupil progress, and pupils thrive on the level of involvement they are expected to have in their learning, beginning at the earliest stages. Students moving to other schools in the UK or other countries experience a smooth transition and often excel in comparison to their peers in terms of academic achievement and personal confidence and poise. Students staying with us to complete the IB have been accepted to the world’s top universities, including Oxford and Cambridge. The school is characterised by its vibrant, warm and friendly atmosphere, which ensures that members of the community feel involved and valued. Students greatly appreciate the relationships they have with their teachers and the care and enthusiasm they put into their work, or as one Year

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10 student commented, “The teachers here know us all very well – too well at times!” Parents regularly enhance the life and curriculum of the school in many ways, from supporting children in the early stages of reading to offering challenging discussion sessions with our IB Business students. Great emphasis is placed on students taking responsibility and applying their learning in authentic situations – they regularly speak and debate at Model United Nations conferences internationally, participate in service initiatives both local and global and are expected to take an active role in the life of the school. From Primary through to IB, students are continually offered new challenges and experiences through extracurricular opportunities in many areas including sport, music and arts of all kinds, from martial to culinary. Admission to the school is open to all, but students applying for secondary places are asked to complete some formal tests and a basic level of English proficiency is required. Our admissions team is renowned for its helpfulness and is well prepared to support parents through the challenging process of finding the right school for their children and settling down in new environments. We warmly welcome families to visit us!

From Primary through to IB, students are continually offered new challenges and experiences through extracurricular opportunities in many areas.

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C hoosing the Right School P

arents often ask me what to look for in a new school. Helping parents to select a public school in the British independent education sector was an important part of my role as a Preparatory School Head in the UK. Parents needed to choose from a dizzying array of single sex and co-educational options, from the highly academic Winchester College to a high-quality all-rounder like Millfield School.

By Kevin Foyle, Principal THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SHANGHAI, PUXI

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On the international circuit it’s also a complex and potentially difficult process, but at least in most cases you don’t have to decide between single sex and co-educational (boys and girls together), as most international schools are the latter. The decision-

making process is further simplified if you’re looking for a particular national curriculum or national system of education. In Budapest, as in most parts of the globe, the British and American systems are most prevalent, but many other

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from independent sources (such as websites like www.xpatloop. com). Personal recommendations are best of all. Most schools will be happy to put you in touch with current parents from your home country to give you an insider’s view of the school and its performance. But be aware that the hard data available to you may be misleading. Mark Twain was, I believe, correct in stating that we should be wary of “lies, damned lies and statistics”. Schools will always wish to portray themselves in the most favourable light and will make sure that any statistics they publish support this.

systems are represented, as well as international options like the International Baccalaureate. You should of course try to gather as much information as you can, both directly from schools and

Hard data from education authorities and governments should also be treated with care. For example, in the UK all state schools and secondary independent (fee-paying schools) are listed each year in school league tables published in national newspapers. Each year the top ten is dominated by highly selective, and therefore highly academic, schools. Having taught for eight years at Winchester College, arguably the most academic school in the UK’s independent sector, I can vouch for the outstanding levels of academic performance at such schools. What is not measured by such tables, which are based solely on

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pupils’ exam results, is the value added by the school. What was the starting level of the pupils, and how does that compare with their final results? Many argue that this is a far better measure of a pupil’s progress, and indeed a school’s success. Furthermore, these tables do not seek to measure a school’s all-round contribution to a child’s education, which is best seen in the atmosphere around the school, the general behaviour of the pupils and the variety of activities they enjoy. It is often (and I believe rightly) said that the pupils are the best testimony to a school’s success, which makes visiting a school and meeting them an important part of the process. A school’s facilities can also be used to seduce prospective parents, and can be very influential in the decision-making process. However, it does not necessarily follow that a school with outstanding facilities is of high overall quality. Facilities are of course important, and most good international schools boast excellent extracurricular facilities, such as a swimming pool, theatre, sports hall and playing fields. Most schools these days also have significant ICT infrastructure in terms of suites or laptops and interactive whiteboards. A word of caution is once again in order. Are these facilities used well? Do they support high-quality teaching and learning? I strongly suggest you ask to see examples of student work in order to examine the sort of progress being made by pupils and supported by the facilities.

The staff create the right environment, and are role models with a hugely important role in inspiring and developing children in many different ways The single most important factor, I suggest, should be the quality of the people involved in the organisation. Over the years, when potential parents have put me on the spot and asked me to tell them why they should choose my school, my answer has always been staff, staff and, in the final analysis, staff. To be successful, a school has to have high quality professionals across the age range and the subject areas, dedicated to the task of bringing out the best in the children in their care. The best staff do not focus purely on exam results, despite their obvious importance. They also concern themselves with their pupils’ all-round development. Most successful people are able to communicate and interact

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successfully with others. Interpersonal skills such as polite conversation, good behaviour and social graces and understanding and appreciating other people and cultures are therefore all-important attributes. The staff create the right environment, and are role models with a hugely important role in inspiring and developing children in many different ways. Good staff cater for each child’s individual needs and understand how best to motivate and support the children in their care, thus bringing out the best in them. A great deal can be learned about a school through careful research and analysis of data, but to make an informed choice a visit is vital. Your reaction to what you see, hear and feel when you visit should determine your final decision. You will be introduced to lots of people, hopefully including the principal or the heads of school. Ask lots of questions, and make sure you get full and convincing answers on issues that are important to you and your family. During your visit,

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EDUCATION SUPPLEMENT XXXXXXX also ask yourself some questions. Would you be happy to entrust your children’s education and wellbeing to the people you meet? What is the atmosphere like? Is it purposeful? Are pupils and staff respectful of each other and communicating well? Are the pupils happy? Would you be pleased if your children conducted themselves in the same fashion? Ultimately it will come down to your gut reaction. Does the school feel right to you? And, if your children are mature enough to be involved in the decision, does it feel right to them? If the answer to these questions is yes, and the school provides the right curriculum in your language of choice, you have probably found the right school. However, if there are a number of things you immediately take against or that conflict with your own core values, then I strongly advise you to keep looking. Choosing the right school is not an exact science, but with a little background work, some searching questions and a thorough visit, you can look forward to enjoying a happy and productive partnership with your children’s new school.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Principal Jane Thompson has 11 years of experience in school leadership. She studied English and Drama at London University and completed a PSCE in Southampton, where she began her teaching career. After working in a variety of schools in the UK, from a challenging school in Southampton to a cluster of rural schools on the Isle of Arran in Scotland, she embarked on her international career. An international child herself, having been educated in Germany and attended boarding school in the UK, she very quickly settled in Hungary and embraced the enormous potential of international education. She is married to Kevin, who is also in education, and they have two children, currently at BISB. ABOUT THE AUTHOR Principal Kevin Foyle has fifteen years of ex-

perience in school leadership. He studied History, Physical Education and Sports Science at Loughborough and briefly earned a living as a professional cricketer. He began his teaching career at Winchester College, one of the UK’s leading independent schools, where he taught history and politics before taking on the job of Headmaster of Norman Court Preparatory School IAPS in 1995. After twelve very happy and successful years, the draw of a new challenge on the international circuit resulted in his appointment as the founding Principal at The British International School Shanghai, Nanxiang Campus in 2007. Inspired by the wonderful fusion of Eastern and Western approaches to learning found in Shanghai, at the beginning of 2009 he moved to take up the position of Principal at The British International School Shanghai, Puxi Campus. He is married to Gill and they have four children, two presently at BISS Puxi. In his spare time sports, reading and exploring the city, especially the beautiful French Concession, are his main interests.

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MAKING AN EDUCATED CHOICE THE BRITISH AND AMERICAN CURRICULa By John Hart, Head of Secondary THE BRITISH international school budapest and

By Mike Embley, Executive Principal THE BRITISH SCHOOL OF BEIJING

ny comparison of the two systems must start with the statement that one is not comparing like with like. The US doesn’t have a single educational system in the sense that England does. American schools do, however, have a number of accreditation bodies, who ensure that they have certain standards and fundamentals in common. US schools are also much more free to respond to the requirements, or indeed demands, of the local population. This means that special interest groups can have at times a significant effect on teaching requirements and the curriculum in those schools. This might lead to certain subjects, such as Biology, having additional strictures on what can and cannot be taught in schools. Schools in England, on the other hand, follow a single standard National Curriculum.

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Teachers in both systems have some degree of personal freedom to develop their own teaching style within the structure of the particular curriculum that they follow. The English National Curriculum specifies in some considerable detail the educational milestones that children should reach on a year-by-year basis as they progress through their school life. Children are regularly assessed in detail by teachers, who use a standardised set of criteria to assign levels to their progress. Nationally, standardised tests are also employed, which give a very strong indication of how well a child is doing compared to national standards. In the US the relatively recent introduction of the No Child Left Behind act has also introduced compulsory standardised testing in the majority of schools. The act was brought

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“It is arguably the case that the British system is slightly more advanced in terms of maths and literacy, but in truth the variation between students is higher than that between the two systems” in to address America’s relatively poor performance compared to other developed countries in terms of the academic standards of its students. International schools which follow the English National Curriculum use the same standardised testing regime and criteria as schools in England. This allows, for example, a British international school to compare and benchmark itself with the very best schools in the UK and to ensure that its standards are set at that level. Each child is assessed and set targets that are achievable for them. It’s important to note that schools are tasked with not only ensuring the progress of the very able, but also of those whose abilities are not at the top of the range. A student may not excel in national terms in all areas of the curriculum but it is important that the schools ensures that each student does as well as they can and is challenged to progress at a

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rate over and above that they might achieve at an ‘average’ school. These targets are sometimes referred to as Golden Targets and are often used as criteria for parents to judge the ‘value added’ by their school. ‘Value added’ refers to the progress that students in each school make over and above the average progress that a child would be expected to make, and is an important element in school evaluation in the UK. In the US, students are compared using a variety of different standards throughout elementary school and high school. These vary from essentially IQ-based tests to tests which track progress through the curriculum based on tests of recall or understanding. The political landscape of the US is of course more varied than that of the UK, and this has inarguably had an effect on the way in which testing is viewed. International schools following a broadly US-based curriculum will generally choose one of the larger schools accreditation bodies. These are based in different regions of the US and have also broadened their responsibilities to include some overseas US schools. These bodies include WASC (Western Association of Schools and Colleges), NEASC (New England Association of Schools and Colleges) and SACS (Southern Association of Schools and Colleges), but there are others. They try to ensure that schools meet the AYP (Adequate Yearly Progress) targets specified in the NCLB act.

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Schooling in the US generally begins at the age of around 5 or 6 years old. The initial focus in kindergarten is on playbased activities, with a transition to more formal structured learning occurring gradually as the child progresses through school. In many ways this is mirrored in the British system. Unlike in many areas of the US, however, a full system is in place for early years education. The Early Years/Foundation Stage (EYFS) curriculum is centred on developing all aspects of a very young child, both social and academic. It monitors and assesses key developmental milestones. Parental communication is heavily emphasised in the EYFS. Play is of course emphasised in the play-based learning sections of the curriculum, as are areas of continuous provision such as outdoor play, water play, sand play, arts activities and books. Even before children can read it’s important to have books around so that they begin to develop habits which will lead to a lifelong love of learning.

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Moving into primary school, the key difference might be seen to be one of approach. The core areas of teaching in fact vary little. It is arguably the case that the British system is slightly more advanced in terms of maths and literacy, but in truth the variation between students is higher than that between the two systems. There is also a somewhat wider focus in the British system, contrasted with a more national focus in the US. However, again the variation between teachers is wider than that laid down in the curriculum, with some US teachers considering it their duty to promote a wider world view where they are allowed to do so. One key area, though, is that of tradition. Many British schools still have uniforms and an explicit emphasis on teaching good manners and social skills. Both systems, of course, aim to combat bullying and other obvious social ills, but in general it would be fair to say that many US schools from primary upwards are a little more free or informal than their British counterparts. Of course this is neither good nor bad. Many parents may consider the teaching of good manners rather old-fashioned, or school uniforms a restriction of children’s freedom of expression. The British headteacher would reply that uniforms make for a family atmosphere and feeling of community, and reduce fashion pressure on both children and parents. There is no right answer to this issue, of course, and neither system can be said to be superior.

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In secondary school (high school) the differences become more pronounced. Here by most standards the average British child is indeed one year more advanced in mathematics and language than their US counterpart (based on national average statistics). The differences in approach become even more pronounced, as schools across the US have a very different and more liberal approach than that of schools in the UK. General standards in any good school in either the US or the UK will not vary hugely. The UK primary and early years system has proven to be highly successful in nurturing young minds, but aspects of the US middle school system are also being developed strongly. Both systems feature a strong emphasis on ICT skills, but the UK system is perhaps a little more outward looking. The key difference will always be one of approach. A modern forward-looking system aiming to maintain some traditional values, or a highly varied state-by-state system looking to satisfy the needs of a very varied community while maintaining a liberal tradition; in the end, it’s up to parents and students to choose the one best suited to them.

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helping others to be the best they can be

WWW.NORDANGLIA.COM/BUDAPEST

ducation and learning have always been our focus and our area of expertise. Our people and the people we work with all have a good understanding of what this means to us. We aim to provide students with the opportunity to be the best they can be. HELPING We do everything to support people and be useful to them, always keeping their best interests at heart. OTHERS Our communities: students, parents, policy makers, the societies in which we live and, of course, our own people. Our work reaches all of them. THRIVE To grow. To flourish. To learn. To be inspired. To stretch yourself further than you, or anyone else, thought possible. To experience more. To keep going, onwards and upwards, closer and closer to your aims and dreams.

CONTACT ADMISSIONS@BISB.HU TO ARRANGE A VISIT TO OUR SCHOOL OR TO ORDER A SCHOOL PROSPECTUS

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THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS By Rachel Batty, IB Coordinator THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL BUDAPEST and

By Andrew Joy, IB Coordinator THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SHANGHAI

n a diverse and multicultural city like Budapest, we are always very aware that every student at an international school has their own unique set of needs and aspirations. However, when it comes to selecting a post-16 course, I believe that there are two fundamental requirements which are common to everyone. First, it is essential that we offer a course which results in qualifications which allow every student to progress to the next phase in their education or career. The International Baccalaureate Diploma is unique in that it offers a truly international qualification which is not tied to any particular national system, leading to recognition by universities from all over the world.

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With over 775,000 students in 138 countries, the IB is expanding rapidly and is seen by many institutions as the best pre-university course around. A strong IB Diploma can let students gain admission to one of the best universities in the world.

Even more important, though, is that we help students to develop the skills, knowledge and attitudes that will lead to a successful life. We are very conscious that when students have completed their secondary schooling at The British International School Budapest, they must be ready to face the challenges of independent study at university or college, often living alone for the first time in their lives. Merely getting a student to a good university is not enough. The student needs to have the academic background and the study skills to enable them to thrive in that environment and then go on to build a successful career. In the International Baccalaureate Mission Statement, a stated aim is to “develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who help to create a better and more peaceful world through intercultural understanding and respect”. This is in line with our own mission statement, in which The British International School Budapest is described as “an environment of respect, intercultural understanding and integrity; a community where everyone feels involved, valued and successful; a place where individuals make a difference”. Certainly, the formidable combination of the top quality teaching and facilities at BISB and the highly regarded IB course is an excellent preparation for higher education. Every IB Diploma student studies six different subjects, which must include

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courses in language and literature, a second language, a social science, a natural science and Mathematics. They are also strongly encouraged to study one of the arts. This breadth of study helps to develop the sort of well-rounded education which is demanded by our increasingly cosmopolitan globalised society. BISB offers an outstanding selection of subject choices. All IB subjects incorporate a coursework element, ensuring that a significant part of the assessment is based on applying the knowledge learned in class. The science courses, for example, are designed to provide a balance between understanding theory and practical experimentation. In subjects such as Visual Arts, the entire syllabus is coursework-based, meaning that learners are actually continuously creating art as well as studying it.

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However, what particularly distinguishes the IB Diploma from other post-16 courses are three unique elements, all of which are geared towards developing the skills which will bring success in higher education and in later life. These are the Extended Essay, the Theory of Knowledge course and the Creativity, Action, Service programme. Students will find that in university there is an increased focus on producing work which is well-researched and written to a high academic standard. Working

“Every IB Diploma student studies six different subjects, which must include courses in literature, a second language, a social science, a natural science and Mathematics” on the 4,000-word Extended Essay allows them to develop some of those skills under the expert supervision of one of our experienced teaching staff. Selecting one of their six subjects, they form a thesis question in a topic of their choice before embarking on extensive research. The net result of a process which can take a whole year and several drafts and redrafts is a piece of work which is of greater quality and depth than anything they have ever done before. The Theory of Knowledge course helps students in developing their analytical and critical thinking skills. Combining a philosophical approach with a more practical look at how knowledge is obtained in contrasting academic disciplines, it encourages rigorous thinking processes as well as an understanding of different perspectives. Part of the assessment is by oral presentation, which develops important public speaking skills.

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The third of these special elements of the IB is the Creativity, Action, Service (CAS) programme, which aims to help students realise their potential to become leaders and organisers, as well as to establish their position as a contributing member of a caring community. It is a practical course which takes place outside the classroom and involves such varied activities as sport, drama, art, creative skills and community service. IB students take ownership of this process by initiating projects of their own and by reflecting on their own progress throughout. CAS projects have produced some memorable moments. Within the Creativity component, CAS students have organised and compered a school talent show and our IB dinner parties become more creative and ambitious every year. There have been some unforgettable performances in music and drama, while other students have also made essential contributions to

productions by working backstage on props and lighting. The Action part of the CAS programme has opened up opportunities to learn new sports such as canoeing, rock climbing and iceskating, as well as take part in organised cycling trips and hikes. In the area of Service, links have been established with a number of charities, both locally and internationally. Our students have been involved in the practical work of organisations such as Wonderlamp, Habitat for Humanity and the schoolbuilding project in Senegal and have also raised substantial sums of money for these charitable causes. All in all, the International Baccalaureate Diploma provides a coherent, yet varied, educational experience. The emphasis on independent inquiry and the demanding workload provide ideal preparation for higher education and promote attitudes that will stand students in good stead throughout their lives.

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Fundamentals of

Success By Mike Embley, Executive Principal THE BRITISH SCHOOL OF BEIJING

ne critical aspect of a student’s time spent at school which is often overlooked by parents when choosing a school is the ethos which the school engenders in its pupils. While it’s easy to look at class size, pupil-teacher ratios and even academic grades, the way in which the students behave is more difficult for a parent to assess in a short time. In fact, even though this element of a school’s culture can be difficult to assess, it’s just as important to a child’s wellbeing and happiness, and indeed future success, as those other areas of a school’s life which are sometimes given sole attention. The best schools realise that this issue is critical and spend a great deal of time and effort to ensure a culture of healthy mutual respect and disciplined behaviour. Students greet teachers in the corridors with “Good morning, Mr Smith” and the teachers respond in kind.

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When an adult enters the classroom, the students stand as a mark of respect. Of course, in return the students are treated in kind.

consistent high expectations coupled with guidance and a feeling of safety are crucial in the proper development of any child.

Other aspects of this culture of social graces may be seen in the dining hall, where student table manners are monitored and older students assist younger students with their food and eating habits. Also, attention to the details of uniform are at times seen as stifling by some students, but in time come to be seen as a matter of pride and belonging.

Engendering a well-behaved and socially adept student body has direct consequences for the school as a whole. Students pick up the habits of those around them very quickly, and if role models display poor behaviour this can quickly spread, leading otherwise well-mannered children down a path to less desirable consequences. Of course, all this feeds back into the academic life of a school. Teachers who are not spending many hours dealing with petty, or indeed not so petty, matters

These might seem at first glance to be small things, but as any parent will know,

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of discipline or respect can focus their energies on inspiring young minds and helping students to achieve. As mentioned earlier, it’s not only the students who are expected to take up this behavioural pattern of respect and good manners. The teaching and administration staff of the school have a role in modelling this behaviour and setting a good example. It’s vital that all members of staff are committed to upholding the values of the school and demonstrating them to the pupils at all times.

development of the children in our care as they learn to use these vital tools. The approach to the ethos of a school is a holistic one almost by definition. It is one that must be nurtured by all staff, parents and students. It is one to which a little attention must be given every day and it is, ultimately, the difference between a school which merely educates the children in its care and one which guides and cares for them while they make the sometimes difficult journey towards finding a confident, successful and happy place in the world.

In these modern times it’s important to note that these values are not aimed at stifling creativity or marking a return to some of the less pleasant ‘children should be seen and not heard’ attitudes of the past. Children can be encouraged to thrive and do, in fact, feel more secure in a compassionate, structured, pleasant atmosphere of simple good manners and behaviour. Some traditional types of behaviour are worth maintaining and adapting to serve students in the world today. This includes adapting them to the new ‘netiquette’ and Internet safety issues that students must now be aware of. The idea that children today are born knowing how to use the Internet and how to stay safe while online is patently untrue. The idea that there are no social norms to be respected while online is also false. Keeping a careful eye on these matters is vital for the safety and

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Facts Machine Give your new school all the information they can handle By Mark Angus, Principal THE BRITISH International SCHOOL Shanghai

veryone wants the business of starting in a new school to be as smooth, quick and painless as possible, especially if it’s also in a new country. Pupils want to meet their new classmates and teachers and make friends as soon as they can, while parents want to feel reassured that they have made the right decision and that their child will be happy and flourish in their new environment, so they can stop worrying! Schools also want joining a new learning environment to be a positive experience for all concerned. They want to get to know you and your child, to welcome you into the community and to be able to get on with the business of helping pupils to learn as soon as they can. So while different schools in different countries with different systems might all have their own registration, enrolment and induction procedures, each with their own particular idiosyncrasies, there is nevertheless one constant, one thing that any school wants about their new starters, wherever in the world that school is – everyone wants information.

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“

School reports vary markedly around the world, depending on factors such as whether the school is in the independent or maintained sector, the style of curriculum and assessment, the frequency of the reports and a host of other things besides

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Therefore, you can really help your new school simply by giving them as much information about your child as you possibly can. You might think that schools are only interested in dry, academic documentation. Of course this is important, but schools are about so much more than this and, as a consequence, they value and appreciate information from as wide a variety of sources as possible. It might seem irrelevant, unimportant or even silly, but you’d be surprised at what schools can make out of seemingly unpromising material.

What do schools want to know? Academic School reports vary markedly around the world, depending on factors such as whether the school is in the independent or maintained sector, the style of curriculum and assessment, the frequency of the reports and a host of other things besides. It may be that the school reports you have are familiar to us, or they may

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represent a new variation on a theme that we have not encountered before. Don’t worry – whatever the format, a school report will always provide us with useful information and therefore you should provide your new school with all the reports you have, not only the most recent ones. A range of reports over a number of years allows a school to see the ways in which a pupil has developed and gives them some idea as to what might be to come. Your previous schools may also have provided you with other documentation, and it’s useful for us to see that too. These documents might include: standardised test scores; CAT scores (cognitive ability test); educational psychologist reports; speech or occupational therapy reports; reading age scores. These and similar

“

A range of reports over a number of years allows a school to see the ways in which a pupil has developed and gives them some idea as to what might be to come

documents will always be useful, as they help us to make sure we are setting the right targets for new pupils and challenging them appropriately right from the beginning. However, other seemingly less significant material is also of use to us. Small academic prizes might not in themselves demonstrate the direction of a pupil’s future career, but they nevertheless help a new school build up a more complete picture of that pupil as quickly as possible. Therefore, don’t underestimate the value of that Year 3 award for spelling, or that teacher’s commendation for a project, or that prize for memorising times tables – they all help us to understand your child’s overall approach to school, the pride they take in their work and their ability to do well under pressure or under test conditions. Knowing this information can sometimes save us a lot of time in getting to know just where your child’s particular strengths are. Community involvement All schools, and international schools in particular, place a good deal of emphasis on helping pupils to understand the importance of engaging with the community, learning about social responsibility and tackling difficult questions about how the wider world works. Therefore, it is extremely helpful to know the level to which pupils have previously been engaged in addressing these and other related issues. For older students, we value very highly pupils who have taken part in the International Award (called the

Duke of Edinburgh Award in the UK), as it means that they are already on the way to having an understanding of the importance of civic responsibility. Likewise, pupils who have previously been involved in Model United Nations will possess a degree of political and social understanding that sets them apart from their peers. Therefore, this is information that your new school will definitely want to know about and will be useful in establishing the right sort of expectations form the outset. In the case of younger pupils, involvement in organisations such as Boy Scouts or Cubs, Girl Guides or Brownies, army, navy or air force cadets, European Youth Forum, Rotary International, Junior Chamber International, Raleigh International or any similar organisation is also valued highly. If your child has been involved in a group or organisation of this nature, your new school will undoubtedly want to hear about it. It is also useful if your child can speak enthusiastically about their involvement and what they think they learned from the experience. However, it isn’t always necessary to have a certificate or badge to demonstrate the level of engagement. If your child has been involved in any sort of charity or community project, whether at their previous school or through an outside agency, encourage them to talk about it and describe the sort of work they did and what they felt the benefits were – this is the sort of conversation that principals love to have with prospective pupils and families, and that will really help your new school welcome you into its community.

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Sports A lot of the school sport in Budapest international schools is of an extremely high standard and very competitive, and so principals are always keen to hear about new pupils’ sporting skills and exploits. Therefore, this is an area where it’s useful to provide as much documentation and physical evidence as you can. If your child has earned medals, certificates, ribbons or badges for any sort of sporting event then it’s always a good idea to bring them along to an interview or meeting. Have they set a school or district record? Been involved in a championship winning team? Won a gold medal? Been selected to represent their county, state or country? Achievements like these are things to be proud of and shared, and you should encourage your child to talk confidently about their favourite sport and discuss their achievements as maturely as possible. However, people don’t have to be an expert or a champion, or even especially skilled, to enjoy sport; it doesn’t matter at which level your child has competed or if they have ever been a gold medallist; the very fact that they enjoy and take part in a

“

If your child has earned medals, certificates, ribbons or badges for any sort of sporting event then it’s always a good idea to bring them along to an interview or meeting sport will be important to their new school, and so they should feel comfortable discussing what it is that they like about their sport, and why. Extracurricular activities There are as many extracurricular activities to potentially talk about as there are pupils in the world, so no matter what your child’s into, tell us about it! There are formal activities from which you may have supporting, documentary material (it’s helpful to collate this and be prepared to present it during an interview or meeting), or there are smaller-scale activities organised on a much more casual basis. In either

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case, it’s really helpful if your child feels secure and confident enough to be able to talk about them with us. They may be a musician who has completed grade examinations (the universal standard for describing competence on an instrument); they can show us the pieces of music they’re working on to give us a good understanding of their level so we can match them up with the right teachers and fellow musicians. They may have been in an orchestra or ensemble at their old school, in which case it’s useful if they can talk about the pieces they played, their composers and their role in the group. Or perhaps they were in a band – again, it helps if they’re able to talk about the type of music they play, their influences and the other sorts of music they like. There are so many other fascinating things out there that people are interested in, and

likewise so many fascinating things that we are interested in hearing your child talk about. Maybe they can speak other languages. Are into mountain climbing. Have an unusual pet. Have travelled to exotic locations. Have met someone famous. Collect antique coins. Like going to the theatre. Spent some time in hospital. Are part of a large family. Anything! Whatever it is, we think hearing them talk about it will help us to understand the sort of person and pupil they’re going to be. Therefore, perhaps the most important thing when your child meets people at their new school is that they know how to talk about what interests them. Can they explain when they first became interested in mountain climbing? What is the most valuable coin in their collection? Why do they like to travel? What is the play they have most enjoyed? Their aim should be to share with us their knowledge,

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understanding and passion for their hobbies and interests, so that we get a good idea of what makes them tick. Next steps In the end, you really can’t be too prepared when your child is applying to a new school: • Get as many documents together as you can, even if they seem unimportant or trivial. • Get your child ready to show off their sporting medals and ribbons. • Think about the way in which your child presents him- or herself, and make sure that they’re confident talking about and answering questions about their hobbies or interests. Doing all of this will help the school to get to know your child as quickly as they can, and then everyone – him or her included – can get straight down to the serious business of really enjoying the new school.

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the british international school Budapest, Hungary

HELPING OTHERS THRIVE

helping others to be the best they can be Education and learning have always been our focus and our area of expertise. Our people and the people we work with all have a good understanding of what this means to us. We aim to provide students with the opportunity to be the best they can be.

admissions@bisb.hu

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LIVING IN BUDAPEST INTRO

Once you have found your new home, settled in and enrolled your kids in a good school, life in Budapest begins. Those elements that comprise the quality of life that you are used to are for the most part available in Budapest. In many ways your quality of life may increase. In Budapest you’ll have access to a new world of possibilities: sumptuous and affordable cuisine, excellent shopping and fun and interesting activities to enjoy with your loved ones. This section will help guide you through the basics of living and enjoying your life in Budapest. The information and advice offered here is only the beginning, however. Beyond the borders of this book, you’ll find many hidden treasures that will surprise and amaze you while at the same time broadening your understanding of both the city and the country.

Health and Wellness p 136 Eating and Drinking p 138 Shopping p 146 Neighbourhood Descriptions p 154 Conclusion p 162

Enjoy!

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HEALTH XXXXXXX AND WELLNESS Baths

Many spas are for very specific maladies and include medical examinations and treatments, along with accommodation.

The Szechenyi Spa

ungary’s thermal waters have been enjoyed since Roman times and have historically played an integral role in Hungary’s health care system. Many spas are for very specific maladies (respiratory, muscular, arthritic, cardiac or gynaecological) and include medical examinations and treatments, along with accommodation. The growing popularity worldwide of more natural, holistic treatments has resulted in the development of huge wellness centres offering both health and beauty treatments, one of the biggest growth areas in Hungarian tourism. Budapest is one of the world’s great spa cities and there is a wide choice of both therapeutic and recreational pools. Many of the baths are stunning and worth a visit even if you choose not to take advantage of the waters. They can be somewhat confusing to navigate the first time, so try to go with someone who’s been there before, and remember to check to see if you get any money back when leaving if you only stay a few hours. Csillaghegy Baths Pusztakuti ut 3, District III

Palatinus Strand Margit Island, District XIII

Gellert Baths Kelenhegy ut 4, District XI

Romai Open-Air Baths Rozgonyi Piroska utca 2, District III

Kiraly Furdo Fo utca 84, District II

Rudas Spa & Swimming Pool Dobrentei tér 9, District I

Lukacs Spa & Swimming Pool Frankel Leo utca 25-29, District II

Szechenyi Baths Allatkerti ut 11, District XIV

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ike any large city, Budapest has an abundance of options for the active soul. There are many gyms and fitness clubs throughout the city featuring all the latest equipment, and many include swimming pools and saunas. Yoga, Pilates, aerobics and zumba classes abound, along with weightlifting, squash, tennis – the list goes on and on. Curves and Gold’s Gym are two international chains that can be found in Budapest. Curves (many locations) Margit korut 43, District 2; Romai tér 3, District 3; Madach Imre utca 13-14, District VII (www.curves.hu) Gold’s Gym Mammut II Shopping Mall, Lovohaz utca 2-6, District II (www.goldsgym.com)

There are many gyms and fitness clubs throughout the city featuring all the latest equipment, and many include swimming pools and saunas.

Recreational sports

here’s a great selection of recreational sports activities available in Budapest and the surrounding area. Hungary has a long equestrian tradition, and riding continues to be a popular pastime, with riding schools, stables and trails throughout the country. Swimming is also especially well-liked and both indoor and outdoor pools are standard in most communities. Canoeing, kayaking, hiking and cycling are all common activities and you can also find bobsledding, ice skating, skateboarding and go-karting facilities. Margit Island, in the centre of the Danube, is a fabulous site for all sorts of physical fitness activities. There you’ll find walking trails, jogging paths, both indoor and outdoor swimming pools, thermal pools, tennis courts and even a football pitch.

Riding Budakeszi Lovarda and Pony Club www.budakeszilovarda.hu

Ice skating City Park Just off Heroes’ Square (www.mujegpalya.hu) West End City Centre, top level of parking lot (www.jegterasz.hu) Skate rentals at both locations and lessons in City Park.

Swimming Császár-Komjádi Swimming Pool árpád fejedelem útja 8 (06 1 326 1478)

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EATING XXXXXXX AND DRINKING Eating and drinking

Few restaurants open before 9am, so if you like going out for breakfast your options are limited.

udapest is a very affordable European capital city and has a wide array of restaurants at all price points. Most international cuisines are represented, but variations on Hungarian cuisine are far and away the most prevalent. Few restaurants open before 9am, so if you like going out for breakfast your options are limited. Hungarians traditionally eat their large meal at noon, so lunch is often offered as a three-course meal, though you can also order from the regular menu. Restaurants open for dinner at 6pm, but most don’t fill up until 7 at the earliest. You’ll find that your plate is removed as soon as you finish, but that you must specifically ask for your bill. In some restaurants service is already included in your bill and in others it’s not, so be sure to check before automatically adding it. Tipping is generally 10 percent and is added to the bill when paying, as opposed to being left on the table. Most restaurants in the core of the city have multilingual menus, but further afield many don’t. Bring a dictionary! As soon as warmer weather arrives, tables and chairs spill out onto the pavements, with blankets on every chair as long as there’s still a bit of a chill in the air. An indoors smoking ban has been implemented and comes into effect in June 2012. Customer service can vary tremendously and you’ll find everything from dour, grim-faced waiters to service oozing with grace and charm. Hungary has a long tradition of cafe culture, going back to the midnineteenth century when intellectuals and artists would linger for

The New York Cafe has been a Budapest institution since 1895.

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EATING AND DRINKING XXXXXXX hours conversing and debating over their brew. Cafes abound and some historic ones still operate and are well worth a visit. Contemporary chains (Starbucks, California Coffee, Costa Coffee) have started opening throughout the city, copying the very establishments they hope to replace. Hungary is a huge wine producer, with 22 distinct wine areas; the vast majority is consumed within the country’s borders. Decent table wines can be found for under HUF1000, and excellent ones for under HUF3000. For the more discriminating, exceptional wines can be had but may run into the tens of thousands of forints. Most of Hungary’s wineries are open to the public and there’s a huge wine festival every autumn in the Castle district where you can taste offerings from all over the country. Wine is sold in every corner store, and there are fine wine shops scattered throughout the city with very knowledgeable staff able to make good recommendations.

Most of Hungary’s wineries are open to the public and there’s a huge wine festival every autumn in the Castle district where you can taste offerings from all over the country.

Pálinka is a traditional fruit brandy and comes in a large array of flavours, with apricot and plum the most traditional. It’s a must at all family and holiday celebrations and is also the focus of several annual festivals. Bars and clubs abound in Budapest, from traditional English-style pubs to cocktail bars to electronic music clubs. The majority of the city’s nightlife is in Pest and, as there’s zero tolerance for drinking and driving, remember to leave the car at home if you’re going out on the town, even if just for dinner.

Wine tasting in Villanykovesd

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EATING XXXXXXX AND DRINKING Hungarian cuisine

Hungarian paprika gives a unique taste and red cast to many dishes, but the paprika used is usually sweet, with the hot type offered separately.

uthentic Hungarian cuisine is definitely not for the health-conscious, unless eaten sparingly! Rich and spicy, it’s very meat-centred and generally laden with fat and calories. Its distinctive flavours are created with the generous use of Hungarian paprika, lard, sour cream, onions and garlic, although contemporary chefs are attempting to limit the fat by using vegetable oil while preserving the flavours. Hungarian paprika gives a unique taste and red cast to many dishes, but the paprika used is usually sweet, with the hot type offered separately. It’s used to make soups, stews and the dish paprikás. Onions are traditionally braised in hot lard, and sour cream is added to soups, pastas, casseroles and desserts. Other common ingredients in main courses are caraway seeds, black pepper, parsley, tarragon, savory, bay leaves and thyme, while cottage cheese, poppy seeds, walnuts and chestnuts are used in many desserts. Breakfasts usually consist of any one of a huge array of Hungarian pastries, which can be purchased at the ubiquitous bakeries, also found in most Metro stations.

Clockwise from top left: paprikás; stuffed cabbage; káposztástészta; fözelek

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Clockwise from top left: mushroom paprikash gombaporkolt; túrós csusza; rákoczi túrós; dobos torta

Lunch is traditionally a three-course meal and always starts with a hearty soup such as goulash or fish soup, with cold fruit soups common in warmer weather. This is usually followed by some kind of meat dish with potato, pasta or rice garnishes, along with pickles or salads made from seasonal vegetables. Pork, chicken, fried goose liver and game are very popular in Hungary. Beef, though available, doesn’t live up to most Westerners’ standards. Lamb, turkey and fish are all available, but seafood tends to be a little more difficult to find. Smoked meats and sausages are also extremely popular, with Hungarian salami the one that immediately springs to mind. Pörkölt and paprikás are the most common meat dishes. Both are ragouts made from pork, beef, veal or chicken with onions and paprika as the main spice, but paprikás has sour cream added. Stuffed cabbage is another traditional dish, often served at Easter and Christmas. Hungarian pastas include one with cottage cheese (túrós csusza), one with braised cabbage (káposztástészta) and one with poppy seeds (mákostészta). Vegetables may be simmered in water and thickened with roux (fözelek)

Beef, though available, doesn’t live up to most Westerners’ standards.

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EATING XXXXXXX AND DRINKING or can be deep-fried and served with tartar sauce. Pickled vegetables are common and often served as salads. Hungarian snacks and fast food are fairly limited and often found at festivals, markets, pools and beaches.

Desserts are eaten both in cafes and after meals; traditional ones include strudels in a variety of flavours, cottage cheese cake (rákoczi túrós), cake layered with walnut cream (eszterházy torta) and sponge cake layered with chocolate cream and covered in crunchy caramel (dobos tarta). Hungarian snacks and fast food are fairly limited and often found at festivals, markets, pools and beaches. Lángos is a pizza-like, deep-fried disc of potato dough, eaten plain or topped with sour cream or cheese. Kürtöskalács is a hollow pastry cone covered in sugar, baked over an open fire and then coated with nuts, cocoa, cinnamon or anything else you want. Palascinta is Hungary’s version of a crepe, both savoury and sweet, and pogácsa is a small bun that comes in a variety of flavours. Of course it’s no surprise that restaurants featuring Hungarian cuisine are everywhere in Budapest, and everyone finds their local favourite. If you’re looking for somewhere for a special occasion, here are some of the more exclusive ones:

The award-winning Gundel Restaurant

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EATING AND DRINKING XXXXXXX Gundel Allatkerti korut 2, District XIV, bordering District VI (06 1 321 3550) Gundel, established in 1910, is probably the most renowned of Hungarian restaurants. Located just off Heroes’ Square, it’s an elegant restaurant with a lovely garden area for dining in warm weather. Sunday brunches are also offered. Szazeves Etterem Pesti Barnabas utca 2, District V (06 1 318 3608)

The majority of restaurants are quite reasonably priced compared to most European capital cities.

Situated in Budapest’s oldest inn, a beautiful, protected Baroque building, its rustic interior, candlelight and gypsy music make it a romantic option. Vadrozsa Restaurant Pentelei Molnar utca 15, District II (06 1 326 5817) On Rozsa domb in the Buda Hills, this is an upmarket restaurant in a baroque villa. Kisbuda Gyonge Kenyeres utca 34, District III (06 1 368 6402) High-end Hungarian cuisine in a small and homey setting.

International restaurants Restaurants in Budapest run the gamut from Asian to Mexican and everything in between. While there are some very expensive restaurants, the majority are quite reasonably priced compared to most European capital cities. Good beef is difficult to find in Hungary, so beware of ordering it unless you’ve heard good things. Pampas Argentin Steakhouse Vamhaz korut 6, District V (06 1 411 1750) Argentinian steak dishes. Fuji Japan Etterem Csatarka utca, 54, District II (06 1 325 7870) Reportedly the best Japanese cuisine. Sushi Sei Becsi utca 38-44, District III (06 1 240 4065) Bento boxes and sushi sets. Belgian Brasserie Bem rakpart 12, District I (06 1 201 5082) Great selection of Belgian beer.

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EATING XXXXXXX AND DRINKING Chez Daniel Sviv utca 32, District VI (06 1 302 4039) Vegetarian options aren’t as difficult to find in Budapest as one might suppose, although the strictly vegan might find it more of a challenge.

Excellent French cuisine. Maharaja Becsi ut 89-91, District III (06 1 250 7544) Csengery utca 24, District VII (06 1 351 1289) Indian food. Trattoria Pomo D’Oro Arany Janos utca 9, District V (06 1 302 6473) Very popular Italian in the heart of downtown.

Vegetarian Vegetarian options aren’t as difficult to find in Budapest as one might suppose, although the strictly vegan might find it more of a challenge. Both fruit and vegetable soups are common and most menus feature two or three meatless entrees, such as pastas, risottos and cheese-based dishes. Meatless salads, sandwiches, pizzas, falafels and crepes are obvious choices for informal dining out, and many ethnic restaurants have their own traditional meat-free dishes. There are a number of restaurants that cater specifically to vegetarians, including: Vegetarium Etterem Cukor utca 3, District V Napfenyes Etterem Rozsa utca 39, District VII

Delivery As well as pizza joints, there are a number of restaurants that provide delivery services. Arriba Taqueria Terez korut 25, District VI (06 1 374 0057) Casual Tex-Mex fast food, home delivery. New York Pizza Szondi utca 37, District VI (06 1 697 4992, www.newyorkpizza.hu) Great pizza and lots of other US-style offerings. Medieval cafe in the Fisherman’s Bastion

Netpincer www.netpincer.hu Offers online ordering and delivery services for over 150 restaurants.

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SHOPPING XXXXXXX Introduction

Newcomers to the country will quickly discover that shopping on the weekend can be a challenge.

udapest is full of small, independent retailers, with well-known chains found almost exclusively in the malls and big box outlets generally located on the outskirts of the city. With many of the smaller shops you may find that quality can be lower and prices higher than you’re accustomed to. Electronics and clothing tend to be more expensive, while many food items cost less. Newcomers to the country will quickly discover that shopping on the weekend can be a challenge. With the exception of the malls and big box stores, most retailers and markets close at 2pm on Saturdays and don’t open at all on Sundays. Stores are also closed on national holidays. When shopping in small stores, it’s customary to greet the salesperson when both entering and leaving the store, and to always ask before touching the merchandise. You can usually find someone who speaks English in shops in the malls, but it’s more of a challenge in neighbourhood stores. It’s also harder to obtain a refund if you choose to return a purchase, so be sure to enquire about the return policy before parting with your cash. In many cases, once money has left your hands it’s gone for good. Larger stores all accept credit cards, but many smaller shops don’t. Bank debit cards are accepted at most retail establishments.

Left-Stall in Central Market Hall; Right-Central Market Hall

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SHOPPING XXXXXXX

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SHOPPING XXXXXXX Food shopping

If time is of the essence, your best bet is to try the big box supermarkets on the outskirts of the city.

hile one-stop shopping isn’t always a given in Budapest, it’s come a long way and continues to improve. If time is of the essence, your best bet is to try the big box supermarkets on the outskirts of the city. There are small grocery stores on most corners in central Pest, and while they’re somewhat less prevalent in Buda they’re still never too far away. When going into most grocery stores in Budapest, you’re expected to use a shopping cart or basket, and security guards are often present in the larger locations. In most you’re expected to select your own produce and weigh it, or give it to an attendant to weigh for you. Remember to look for the code (kód) as this is what you’ll have to enter on the scale. Beer and wine is sold in all grocery and convenience stores, as is liquor but generally with a much more limited selection.

Markets

ne of the joys of living in Budapest is shopping at the covered markets scattered throughout the city. Produce tends to be fresher than in many grocery stores and prices are often much cheaper. However,

Lehel Piac

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SHOPPING XXXXXXX be aware that in many cases the vendor will insist on selecting the produce for you – you can tell them you’d rather do it yourself, but not all will agree. The largest is Vásárcsarnok (Central Market Hall), on the border of District V and IX in Pest on Vámház körút. Constructed in 1897, it was completely rebuilt in the 1990s and its three floors house a wide array of merchandise. The main floor is mainly taken up with fruit, vegetable, meat and dairy products along with Hungarian paprika, while the lower level houses vendors selling fish and pickled vegetables, as well as several stores. The upper level has a number of take-out food stalls, along with a sit-down, cafeteria-style restaurant, while the rest of the floor is lined with booths selling a variety of souvenirs, ranging from folk art and linens to leather goods and toys. Also in Pest in District XIII is Lehel Piac, on Váci út just north of the Nyugati Train Station. It’s the only market open on Sundays, although not all vendors are present. It’s not as large as the Central Market, but still covers two floors (in a very strange and colourful building) and has a great selection of products.

Lehel Piac on Váci út, just north of the Nyugati Train Station, is the only market open on Sundays.

In Buda, the largest market, Fény Utcai Piac, is just behind Mammut Mall in District II and its two storeys hold a great variety of produce, meats and flowers. Budagyöngye Mall, also in District II, combines a market with food shops that carry many hard-to-find items, along with a good selection of meats, fish and cheese.

Supermarkets and grocery stores

n the outskirts of Budapest there are a number of large supermarkets, with slightly smaller versions scattered throughout the city. These include Auchan, Cora and Tesco, along with Metro, which is a bulk grocery store for which you need a membership card. Smaller supermarkets include Spar, Interspar, Match, CBA and Coop; these can be found all over the city. Specialty food shops While many of the large supermarkets have an area dedicated to international foodstuffs, the selection isn’t huge. There are a small number of specialty food shops which carry items from all over the world, as well as others that are more narrowly specialised. The British Pantry is an online food store with items from the UK where you can place orders for delivery to your home. Most larger supermarkets carry a

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SHOPPING XXXXXXX limited selection of specialty items for people with diabetes or gluten and lactose intolerances, but the best source for people with health issues, as well as for vegetarians, is Herba Ház. With the exception of the malls, downtown Pest has the best shopping for expats.

Azsia Lower level, Central Market Hall, District V British Pantry www.thebritishpantry.hu Online store offering meat and products from the UK, with home delivery. Corner Fine Foods Pasaréti út 51, District II (www.finefoods.hu) Culinaris Perc utca 8, District III; Hunyadi tér 3, District VI; Balassi Bálint utca 7, District V (www.culinaris.hu) Egészségbolt Csaba utca 3, District XII Organic products. EzerfÚszer Lövöház utca 12, District II, behind Mammut I Herba Ház Százados út 18, District VIII (www.herbahaz.hu) Specialty products for vegetarians and people with health issues. Korean/Japanese Food Store Kapy utca 52, District II Asian ingredients and prepared sushi. Middle Eastern Butcher Belgrád Rakpart 23, District V Halal butcher; beef, lamb and special cuts.

Other shopping

ith the exception of the malls, downtown Pest has the best shopping for expats. Many upscale fashion design shops can be found on Andrássy út, as well as on the recently refurbished Fashion Street and Váci utca, the long walking street parallel to the Danube. The Italian department store Coin is a relatively recent addition to the retail scene and offers men’s, women’s and children’s fashions, houseware, perfumes and cosmetics. It’s just off Vörösmarty tér in downtown Pest.

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SHOPPING XXXXXXX Malls

here are shopping malls throughout the city, with many international chains represented. They’re open seven days a week and, in the centrally located malls, you’ll usually find that at least one of the sales staff has some English. Alee Center Oktober 23 utca, District XI (www.allee.hu)

In malls, you’ll usually find that at least one of the sales staff has some English.

Campona Shopping Mall Nagytetenyi ut 37-45, District XXII (www.campona.hu) Duna Plaza Shopping Mall Vaci ut 178, District XIII (www.dunaplaza.net) Mammut I & II Shopping Mall Lovohaz utca 2-6, District II (www.mammut.hu) Mom Park Shopping Mall Alkotas utca 53, District XII (www.mompark.hu) Polus Center Shopping Mall Szentmihalyi ut 131, District XV (www.polus.com) West End City Center Vaci ut 1-3, District VI (www.westend.hu)

Mammut Mall, Budapest

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SHOPPING XXXXXXX Electronics

ame-brand electronics stores (Sony, Panasonic, etc.) can be found in most malls, and Media Markt carries a range of products.

The country has more publishers per capita than the US.

Books

or a country with a population of only 10 million (with just another 4 million worldwide who speak the language), Hungary has a lot of bookshops; the country has more publishers per capita than the US, and there seems to be a shop on every corner. English books are not quite as plentiful, but small sections can be found in many stores. Your best bets are the following: Alexandra Bookstore Locations throughout the city but the best for foreign language books are: Andrássy út 39 (worth checking out just for the in-store cafe – stunning!) Nyugati tér

The stunning Alexandra Bookstore Cafe Bestsellers Oktober 6 utca 11, District V (www.bestsellers.hu) A good selection of magazines and both fiction and non-fiction. CEU (Central European University) Bookshop Nádor utca 9, District V (www.ceu.hu) Right - Street blacksmith in Budapest

Kiraly Books Fö utca 79, District II Children’s schoolbooks and novels.

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SHOPPING XXXXXXX

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NEIGHBOURHOOD XXXXXXX DESCRIPTIONS Neighbourhoods

The districts in Buda are somewhat more diverse than in Pest, where the central core is fairly homogenous.

imilar to the arrondissements of Paris, the 23 Budapest districts are numbered clockwise in widening circles, though they are named with Roman numerals (I-XXIII). The lower the number the closer to the city core and, conversely, the higher the number the further out the district. The districts in Buda are somewhat more diverse than in Pest, where the central core is fairly homogenous. But don’t let the name fool you – Pest is stunningly beautiful.

Buda

here are many advantages to living in Buda. Air pollution can be much lower than in Pest and the summers are not quite as hot and humid. Aside from the central core, trees and gardens cover the residential areas and there are forests with walking and hiking trails. The views from the hills can be breathtaking and there are many schools, activities and facilities for children. The downside is that the winters can be much more severe, with the elevation of the hills resulting in significantly more snow accumulation than across the river in Pest. Many streets are not regularly ploughed and winter driving can thus be a harrowing experience in some areas. The further out you get, the more difficult it becomes to get around by public transportation and the longer it takes to get into the centre of the city. The most popular districts for expats are II and XII, with a smaller number choosing I, III and XI. District I District I is one of the oldest parts of Budapest and includes the historic Castle district with its cobbled streets and medieval monuments, as well as the northern part of Gellért Hill and both the Király and Rudas Thermal Baths. It’s the most central of the districts in Buda, and Pest is easily accessible via either the Chain or Erzsébet Bridges, with the Margit Bridge also nearby. The M2 Metro line has two stations here, Batthyány tér on the Danube and Széll Kálmán tér (formerly Moszkva tér) on the border of District II, and several bus and tram lines run through the area. Housing primarily consists of flats in the 4- to 5-storey apartment buildings that line the streets, and the ones overlooking the Danube with a spectacular view of Parliament command top dollar.

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Castle district (District I)

First Med Center, a private clinic offering comprehensive medical services geared to expats, is located here. Their doctors are on call 24/7 for medical emergencies and home visits can be provided. The proximity to Pest and to the Danube are two of the main advantages of living in District I, along with excellent public transit, great views and the large selection of shops and restaurants in this busy downtown core. Disadvantages are that it’s not as green as other districts, although Margit Island is easily accessible, and it tends to be more urban than residential in feel. The number and noise of tourists can be an issue for residents, and the steep climbs can pose a challenge. District I is also one of the more expensive areas in the city. District II District II, one of the most popular for expats, is much larger and extends from the Danube far out into the Buda Hills. It’s divided into II and IIA, with the outer reaches comprising IIA. Rózsadomb (Rose Hill) is the most notable part of the district and is home to exclusive villas with spectacular views. Europe’s northernmost Islamic holy place, the Tomb of Gul Baba, is here, near the Margit Bridge. The inner part of the district (II) is part of the downtown core of Buda and thus shops, services and public transit are readily accessible. Pest can be reached from District II via the Margit Bridge and Széll Kálmán tér is a major public transport hub, with a red Metro line station and trams 4 and

District II, one of the most popular for expats, is much larger and extends from the Danube far out into the Buda Hills.

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NEIGHBOURHOOD XXXXXXX DESCRIPTIONS 6, both of which connect to Pest. Numerous other trams and buses depart from the square. There’s also Mammut I & II, a very large shopping mall; behind it is a huge food market (Feny Utcai Piac) and two smaller centres. The districts in Buda are somewhat more diverse than in Pest, where the central core is fairly homogenous.

District IIA is a beautiful green area comprised of quiet residential streets along with lots of hiking trails and outdoor activities. The Children’s Railway has a stop and can take you up to Normafa and District XII. There are many smaller shops and cafes and some restaurants with play areas that cater to families, as the area is home to a large population of expats with children. There’s a cultural centre on Hidegkúti út which offers classes and events, along with an organic market every Saturday. Rózsakert Medical Center, with over 65 doctors representing 28 medical specialties, has two 24-hour phone lines, one for adults and one for children. First Med Center in District I is also easy to get to, especially by public transport from IIA. Housing in District II consists of private villas, semi-detached and singlefamily homes and flats in low-rise buildings, with flats predominantly found in the inner areas.

The Children’s Railway Budapest

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NEIGHBOURHOOD DESCRIPTIONS XXXXXXX The negatives of living in District IIA are the more limited public transport options, the length of time it takes to get into Pest and the fact that many take-out restaurants will not deliver that far out. District III District III lies in the northern part of Buda and is the oldest and second-largest district. The remains of the Roman colony of Aquincum, the northernmost boundary of the Roman Empire, can be seen at the Aquincum Museum. The centre of the district, the original town of Óbuda (Old Buda), contains cobbled Fo tér and Flórián tér, where you can see some impressive baroque architecture among the commercial and administrative buildings. Óbuda has become very trendy in recent years, with many shops, restaurants and bars in its busy core. Green areas are primarily on the banks of the Danube, on Csillaghegy and in the hills west of Bécsi út. A huge music festival, Sziget Festival, takes place every summer on Hajógyári-sziget, a large island in the Danube. There are a number of big box stores in District III, as well as a large shopping centre, Eurocenter Óbuda. There are also a couple of markets in the Óbuda core. Unfortunately, there are no large, comprehensive private expat medical clinics located nearby. While there is an area of immense high-rise communist-era blocks in District III, there are also some very attractive areas in the hills, where there are many new housing developments. Unfortunately, public transportation has not kept up with this development and a car is a necessity if living here. Traffic can also be horrendous when trying to get into the downtown core of Budapest. District XI District XI, originally Újbuda (New Buda), is where wealthy citizens lived before they moved to the Buda Hills. Kelenföld is the congested central section, while the Sasad-Sashegy areas are more residential and lie further out in the hills. Gellért Hill, an immense limestone hill rising up from the banks of the Danube, is the focal point, and the top offers one of the best panoramic views of the city. Both Gellért tér and Móricz Zsigmond körtér are main transportation hubs for buses and trams, and the latter is the main centre of the district. The fourth Metro line will eventually have all five of its Buda stops in District XI. The city’s newest mall, the Allee Shopping Center, is here, alongside a new grocery market on Október 23 utca. There’s also the world-famous Gellért Baths and the huge indoor Central Market just over the Petöfi Bridge. If you’re interested in learning Hungarian, there’s an excellent state-sponsored language school, Balassi, behind the Gellert Hotel, and both the Technical University and the Elite

District XI, originally Újbuda (New Buda), is where wealthy citizens lived before they moved to the Buda Hills.

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New Buda in winter

University of Sciences are in the district too. Snow removal can be an issue in winter, and this is something you should definitely investigate before signing a lease.

As in most districts in Buda, the areas closer to the Danube are more urban, with the streets becoming greener and more residential as you move outward. The district is large, and public transit becomes less available the further out you go. However, the road system is good and there are several routes into downtown, so traffic jams are not as prevalent as in some other districts. The highways and big box stores on the outskirts of the city are easily reached from the outer areas, so shopping isn’t a problem. Snow removal can be an issue in winter, and this is something you should definitely investigate before signing a lease. Medicover's Infopark Practice is in this district and offers a 24-hour phone iine and full services on site. Also, the First Med Center isn’t too difficult to get to and there’s a Hungarian Children’s Hospital near Allee Shopping Center. As in other districts, housing varies from flats in older buildings in the core to single family homes farther out. The expat community in this area is small.

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District XII District XII runs from District I up into the Buda Hills, much of which is covered in forest, and is often described as the lungs of Budapest. The hills are ideal for hiking and many citizens take advantage of Normafa for skiing, hiking and leisurely walks. There are a number of buses that service the district, as well as the Cogwheel Railway, which goes up to a fabulous lookout point on Széchényi Hill. In the lower part of the district you’ll find streets lined with small apartment buildings, but most of the district is covered with winding roads with single family homes. It’s one of the most expensive areas, due to the clean air, spectacular views and lush forests, and there’s a large expat community. A car is a necessity, though note that driving can be a challenge in winter, with many roads left unploughed.

It’s one of the most expensive areas, due to the clean air, spectacular views and lush forests, and there’s a large expat community.

Pest

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The negatives of residing in Pest include the dust, air pollution and noise that come with living in the core of a busy city.

streets large and small in all of the central districts. Restoration of these magnificent buildings has been ongoing since the fall of communism and you’ll see a mix of freshly restored buildings and homes that have changed little since the first half of the century. Inside you’ll find flats with towering windows and high ceilings, along with original oak parquet floors. Most of these flats surround a central courtyard with original iron railings, and some have small French balconies overlooking the street below. Many of them have been renovated and there’s a large selection available for rent in Districts V through VIII, with Districts V and VI the most popular among foreigners. In addition, modern buildings housing contemporary apartments are interspersed among older ones where renovation of the original building has not been possible. There are many benefits to living in central Pest. It has excellent public transportation with its three Metro lines, tram lines 4 and 6 and innumerable trams, trolleys and buses, making it easy to get virtually anywhere. Although large supermarkets aren’t as numerous, smaller grocery stores can be found on almost every corner, making it easy to shop on a daily basis. Streets are lined with small businesses offering all of the goods and services anyone could need, and it’s easy to survive quite comfortably without a car. Restaurants, clubs and cultural centres are everywhere, as are many of the city’s tourist attractions. The weather in winter is a definite advantage, as snowfall is usually negligible – it’s often raining in Pest when it’s snowing in Buda. The negatives of residing in Pest include the dust, air pollution and noise that come with living in the core of a busy city. Green spaces are few and far between, with the exception of the large Városliget (City Park) and Margit Island. The summer heat tends to hover over the city, with none of the fresh breezes enjoyed up in the hills.

District V is the very heart of the city and is Pest’s most expensive district.

District V District V is the very heart of the city and is Pest’s most expensive district. The majority of buildings here have been restored and many roads have been turned into pedestrian streets where traffic is either strictly limited or banned. Along with Parliament, many government buildings are located in District V, as are the big financial and corporate offices. St Stephen’s Basilica, Fashion Street and Váci utca are all popular tourist attractions. The Dr. Rose Medical Center is in District V and combines regular medical services with a small state-of-the art hospital where surgeries can be performed.

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NEIGHBOURHOOD DESCRIPTIONS XXXXXXX The benefits of living in District V are the beauty of the surroundings, the proximity to upscale shops, restaurants and cultural attractions and the ability to walk pretty much anywhere you need to go. Disadvantages include living among throngs of tourists, and being at the mercy of public gatherings that may cause disruptions on national holidays or at times of protest. Grocery stores are also not quite as plentiful here as in other parts of downtown Pest. District VI District VI is east of District V and has a thriving cultural scene. Home to the Opera, the Liszt Ferenc Music Academy, the Operetta and many smaller theatres, Andrássy út and environs are Budapest’s Broadway. The sycamore tree-lined street is also home to exclusive boutiques at the bottom and embassies at the top, where the magnificent Millennium Monument sits in Heroes’ Square, flanked by two stunning, world-class museums. Restaurants and clubs are everywhere and the large City Park and Széchényi Baths are easily accessible via yellow Metro Line 1, which runs under Andrássy út.

Disadvantages include living among throngs of tourists, and being at the mercy of public gatherings that may cause disruptions on national holidays or at times of protest.

The West End Shopping Center and Hunyadi Market are here, and Lehel Market isn’t far away. The Medicover Health Care Center is also nearby and First Med and Dr. Rose are easily reachable. Advantages of living in District VI include the shops and services and proximity to so many restaurants, theatres and attractions. The side streets in District VI don’t get many tourists, so the district as a whole is less congested. District VII District VII is the Jewish Quarter and is home to the Great Synagogue, considered by some to be the most beautiful synagogue in the world, along with a number of smaller synagogues and other Jewish restaurants and businesses. It’s an up-and-coming district with lots of nightlife, pubs and restaurants. It can get a little sketchy in some areas, so you’ll need a good real estate agent to advise you. District VIII Like District VII, District VIII still has some unsavoury spots, but the areas around the Natural History Museum have improved in recent years, and there are some beautiful renovated palaces in the area. Major redevelopment projects are planned or underway.

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Conclusion

e hope you have enjoyed our Essentials Guide Budapest and found it useful. Our goal was to provide relocating families with a primer to life in Budapest which contained practical information that would demystify the process and ease the transition to our city. As well, we hoped that the images we selected would convey the complex – and at times strikingly beautiful – character of the city and its people.

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