FIRST EDITION
THE ESSENTIALS
GUIDE B R AT I S L AVA 1
W W W.NOR DAN GLIA.COM /B R ATIS LAVA
THE ESSENTIALS
GUIDE B R A T I S L AVA W WW.NOR DAN GLIA.COM /B R ATIS LAVA
THE ESSENTIALS
GUIDE B R A T I S L AVA WWW.NORDANGLIA.COM /BRATISLAVA
Essentials Guide Bratislava 1st Edition Copyright Š Nord Anglia 2011 All Rights Reserved Chief Editor - Travis Murray Primary Design - Valle DMG Secondary Design - Travis Murray Primary Copywriting - Susan Jefferies Secondary Copywriting - William Lower Copyediting/Proofreading - Aelred Doyle While every possible effort has been taken to ensure that the facts contained within this guide are accurate, Nord Anglia cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that this guide may contain. No part of this guide may be reproduced or distributed, by electronic means or any other, without the prior permission of Nord Anglia Ltd.
TABLE OF CONTENTS PREPARING TO GO Introduction p 8 History p 20
Money and Banking p 66 Getting Connected p 68 Health Care p 72
Culture p 24
Temporary Accommodation p 76
Geography and Cityscape p 31
Finding Housing p 82
Country Map p 34 Climate p 38 Language p 40 Regional Map p 42
Getting Settled p 84 Culture Shock p 88 Education p 91 Education Supplement p 98
Administrative Preparations p 44 Address, Phone and Finances p 46 Embassies and Consulates p 48 Books, Films and Music p 52
LIVING IN BRATISLAVA Health and Wellness p 142 Eating and Drinking p 144 Shopping p 152
WHEN YOU ARRIVE
Neighbourhood Descriptions p 160
Landing p 58
Conclusion p 166
Getting Around p 60
Maps p 182
helpi ng others thrive
Education and learning have always been our focus and our area of expertise. Our people and the people we work with all have a good understanding of what this means to us. We aim to provide students with the opportunity to be the best they can be. www.nordanglia.com/bratislava
Introduction
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n first learning of the prospect of moving to Bratislava, the first question that comes to many expats’ mind is: “Where’s that?” While many may be unfamiliar with this city, by car it’s just an hour northeast of Vienna and under three hours northwest of Budapest.
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Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia and once the capital of Hungary, is a city of many surprises. While maintaining some elements of its historic past, the city is dynamic, energetic and eclectic. Once branded with stereotypical Eastern European drabness, Bratislava has gone to great lengths to shed that image and, for the most part, welcomes Westerners with open arms. The city and its people are vibrant, friendly and enterprising.
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or most expats coming to Bratislava, it’s a temporary move, although you will encounter those who came and fell in love with more than just the city. They are the ones who fell in love with a lifestyle or with a Slovak. Either way they’re here to stay.
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or a city with a population of under half a million, the depth and breadth of its cultural activities may surprise you. There’s an abundance of fine dining, an active expat community and a welcoming host population.
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Bratislava is not a large city, so you may quickly cherish the lack of some big-city frustrations. Most of the time you can drive across the city in about half an hour and the public transit system is extensive. Yes, the language is difficult and the bureaucracy can present a challenge, but all in all, life is good here.
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his Essentials Guide to Bratislava will help you plan ahead before moving and settle in easily once you arrive. A mix of the old and the new, you’ll find both quaint, cobblestone streets and stunning, contemporary homes, not to mention everything in between. Excellent international schools, high-quality health care and cultural and recreational activities galore make Bratislava a place you should soon become glad to call home.
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CONTENTS
PREPARING TO GO INTRO
Preparing to go will be as much a mental journey as it will be a practical one. Understanding more about the culture you are about to encounter will help prepare you for the experience. You can read a book or watch a movie we recommend or you can engage in your own research. Either way, the process will reward you. The practical aspects of preparation are, of course, vital to ensuring that your journey begins on a positive note. This section will help you prepare on both fronts.
History p 20 Culture p 24 Geography and Cityscape p 31 Country Map p 34 Climate p 38 Language p 40 Regional Map p 42 Administrative Preparations p 44 Address, Phone and Finances p 46 Embassies and Consulates p 48 Books, Films and Music p 52
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HISTORY History
Bratislava has seen many masters and, not surprisingly, has had many names.
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he Slovak Republic came into existence on January 1, 1993, the result of a peaceful separation from the Czech Republic. But the roots of the country as we now know it go back to the sixth century, when Slav tribes first arrived in the region from the east. The kingdom of Great Moravia was founded in the ninth century, but within a hundred years it fell to the Magyars (Hungarians) and the region remained part of their kingdom for the next thousand years, although not always under their rule. Bratislava’s geographical location, and its proximity to bordering countries and cities, has played a pivotal role in shaping the current city and its cultural make-up, and has contributed to its history over the thousands of years since its first recorded colonisation. Some of the most notable aspects of this modern city come from the fact that although Bratislava is currently the Slovak capital, over its existence it has been in turn the site of a Roman settlement, the stronghold of the Moravian Empire, the capital of Hungary and a prominent German city, referred to as Pressburg, the German name for the city. Although settlement can be traced back to the Neolithic Era (5000 BC), the Celtic settlements of the area first proved significant enough to justify the establishment of a mint in approximately the third century BC, followed by the establishment of a Roman defence system and the introduction of grape growing, a practice still common throughout Slovakia. Bratislava has seen many masters and, not surprisingly, has had many names. It’s impossible to do justice to Bratislava’s history within the scope
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HISTORY of this guide. As you would expect, there are numerous online and printed resources that provide everything from a tourist’s overview to a historian’s perspective on Bratislava. However, one aspect of Bratislava’s history that is important to you, a soon-to-be expat living in this community, is its long history of multiculturalism. Germans settled here in the Middle Ages and, along with Slovaks, the number of Hungarians increased after the Turkish Wars. At one point in the city’s history, most inhabitants could speak three languages: German, Slovak and Hungarian. Also, Bratislava was home to a large Jewish community, along with Italians and people from the Balkans. Long before the term ‘multiculturalism’ existed, Bratislava was a multicultural urban centre that tolerated many diverse religions. On one street you could find Saint Martin’s Cathedral and an ancient Jewish synagogue, and on another nearby thoroughfare stood a mosque built by Mohammedan merchants.
For over 150 years, the city was a significant strategic fortress on the frontier separating the Christian and Islamic world.
One might argue that the Turkish Wars were the most dramatic events in the history of Bratislava. For over 150 years, the city was a significant strategic fortress on the frontier separating the Christian and Islamic world, on the front lines in the wars between Islam and Christianity. In 1683 Turkish troops marched up the Danube, occupying and devastating every suburb of Bratislava but failing to take the city itself. Finally defeated near Vienna, the century-and-a-half-long Turkish threat to the city came to an end. Serving as the seat for the Hungarian parliament from 1536 until the last session in 1884, Bratislava was also the capital of Hungary, with the Crown
Devin Castle tower
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HISTORY
War memorial in Bratislava
Tower in the castle serving as the home of the Hungarian crown jewels for over 230 years. 19 kings and queens had their coronation here. The Hungarian influence on Bratislava, and Slovakia as a whole, is still evident. An ideal spot from which to reflect on Bratislava’s long and fascinating history is the top of the Devin Castle ruins in the western end of the city. Today the site is a national park, with several trails winding their way to an assortment of archeological exhibits throughout the grounds. With the view from where you’re standing, you’ll immediately understand the site’s strategic importance. Looking north you’ll see the confluence of two major rivers, the Danube and the Morava. In medieval times, if you controlled rivers, you controlled trade. The Danubian Road, an extension of the famous Silk Road, ran by here, as did the Amber Road, the trade route connecting Baltic countries to southern Europe.
An ideal spot from which to reflect on Bratislava’s long and fascinating history is the top of the Devin Castle ruins in the western end of the city.
Look to the west across this narrow spot in the Danube and you’re looking at Austria. In fact, if your cell phone provider sends automated messages whenever you enter another country, you might get one while standing here, still firmly on Slovak soil. Just a few decades ago, the park that you’re now enjoying was designated a military zone and was a maze of barbed wire and watch towers. Its sole purpose was to prevent ordinary citizens from escaping the Eastern Bloc into the West and freedom. Stand here and try to imagine how heartbreaking it would have been for captive citizens in a totalitarian regime to be so close to a life that was, thanks to barbed wire and machineguns, so distant, foreign and unattainable.
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HISTORY
Look south from your perch here and you’ll see central Bratislava, a couple of kilometres away. The trade that transpired within that once walled city operated under the protection, in part, of the fortress where you stand, the fortress that now stands in ruins, albeit thankfully preserved. The modern-day capital of Slovakia continued to serve a variety of important roles with the formation of Czechoslovakia, serving as an administrative centre for the first Czechoslovak state in 1918. Bratislava became the city’s official name at the time of its annexation into the Czechoslovak Republic in 1919, which later formed part of a satellite state under the control of Nazi Germany during World War II. Under the communist regime controlling Eastern Europe, the importance and strategic relevance of Bratislava was largely diminished within the Czechoslovakian state, with the seat of power moving to Prague, the capital of today’s Czech Republic. Following this period of communist rule, Bratislava once again became a capital city, this time of the Slovak Republic, after the ‘Velvet Divorce’ and the peaceful dissolution of Czechoslovakia on January 1, 1993. The various rulers and resulting cultural influences have all contributed to the architecture of the region, and ultimately to the culture of this vibrant European city.
Bratislava has been a treasured prize in military conflicts throughout history.
Bratislava has been a treasured prize in military conflicts throughout history. When you walk through Old Town, it’s entertaining to ponder what relics may lay buried beneath your feet, waiting to be discovered and to add yet another chapter to the rich history of this dynamic city.
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CULTURE Culture
The culture has been gradually changing with more exposure to the West and many traditional social customs are loosening, especially among young people.
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he descendants of Slavic peoples who settled around the Danube basin in the 6th and 7th centuries, Slovaks were traditionally of the peasant class and continue to have strong links to the land. A significant percentage of the older generation remains rural and relies on agriculture. Being governed by foreign rulers for so much of their history means that many Slovak customs, laws and traditions have been influenced by other cultures, and many of their cultural movements are still in their early stages. The culture has been gradually changing with more exposure to the West and many traditional social customs are loosening, especially among young people. The family is the primary social structure and ties are extremely strong. Slovaks are a very private people and can come over somewhat formal and reserved. They contain their emotions and only open up once a personal relationship has been established. Greetings are expected, usually accompanied by handshakes and direct eye contact, though close friends and family members are kissed on both cheeks. First names are rarely used in business, and academic or professional titles should be used. Otherwise people are addressed as Pan or Pani and their surname. Slovaks tend to be very diplomatic people, only becoming more open and direct once they get to know someone well. Women have equal rights and opportunities and can be found in most professions. However, as in most countries, men still predominate in high-level positions and control most of the wealth, as well as retaining a privileged position within the family home, with the women expected to take care of most household chores and child care. Divorce is common,
Slovak dancing
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CULTURE
Left - Church in central Bratislava
gay and lesbian relationships are generally closeted and same-sex marriage is not legal. Children are raised much more strictly than generally in the West. They are expected to be quiet and attentive, to keep their clothing clean and to act like miniature adults. Slovaks attempt to instil a strong work ethic in their children by assigning them chores at a young age, and education is compulsory through grade ten. While post-secondary education is highly valued, there are unfortunately insufficient spaces for all those applying.
Slovak children are raised much more strictly than generally in the West.
While Roman Catholicism is the dominant religion with 68.9 percent of Slovaks part of it, the next highest percentage of the population, at 13 percent, claims no religious affiliation whatsoever. Protestants make up 10.8 percent, Greek Catholics 4.1 percent and 3.2 percent belong to other denominations. There are a number of public holidays throughout the year, many associated with the Church. These include Epiphany on January 6; Good Friday, Easter Sunday and Easter Monday; July 5, which marks the day saints brought Christianity to the country; September 15, celebrating Our Lady of the Seven Sorrows; November 1st, All Saints Day, when Slovaks remember their dead; and, of course, Christmas. Secular holidays are New Year’s Eve and Day; May 1; May 8, the liberation of the Slovak Republic; August 29, celebrating the uprising during WWII; and September 1, Constitution Day. There are also local festivals at the end of the school year and in August and early autumn to celebrate the harvests. Bratislava is a very cultured city and residents have their choice of ballet, opera, the philharmonic orchestra or various theatrical productions. Museums and galleries also abound.
Next Page UNESCO World Heritage village of Vlolinec
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CULTURE
W Bratislava is host to a wide variety of cultural centres, theatres, concert halls, cinemas, galleries and museums.
The Slovak National Theatre by night
hen considering culture in Bratislava, one has to take into account the diverse influences that have shaped not only the city itself, but central Europe and the Slovak Republic in particular: the Roman Catholic influence, the long period of Hungarian rule, the subsequent German control and of course the communist regime. Bratislava is host to a wide variety of cultural centres, theatres, concert halls, cinemas, galleries and museums. The Slovak National Theatre consists of two separate buildings, one historical and one new, with the former having roots dating back to 1776 and constructed in a Neo-Renaissance style. The Slovak National Theatre is just one of sixteen venues where drama, ballet and opera can be enjoyed. For lovers of orchestral and classical music concerts, the Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra provides regular concerts in their concert hall, known as the Reduta Building. The beautiful building alone (originally commissioned as a granary in 1773) is well worth visiting, and is considered one of Bratislava’s most important cultural artifacts. The decision to convert it into a cultural centre came at the end of the twentieth century, providing an exquisite structure in neo-Baroque, Rococo and Art Nouveau styles in its Old City location. Art lovers can indulge themselves with a variety of art museums, galleries and open exhibits across the city. The rich history of the region is preserved in various museums scattered around Bratislava, from the castle’s Historical Museum to the Music,
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CULTURE Natural History and other museums where you can learn about the cultures that have contributed to the history and culture of Slovakia. Any visit to Slovakia should include a visit to some of the castles and ruins to be found throughout the country, and those immediately accessible from the capital include Bratislava Castle and the Devin Castle ruins, at what was historically considered an extremely strategic location at the confluence of the Danube and Morava rivers. A day trip by boat up the Danube to view the Devin Castle ruins makes for an ideal historical day out. Bratislava, and Central Europe as a whole, is full of deeply-rooted folkloric traditions and cultures of Slavic, Germanic and Hungarian origin. Many people believe that Slovak culture is one of the most dynamic of these traditions. This is evidenced by the traditional folk festivals where you can see high-energy folk dancing complete with colourful outfits and traditional equipment. From a modern-day perspective, Bratislava offers a wide range of leisure and entertainment activities, with easy access to numerous restaurants and traditional pubs and wine bars. Cocktail bars have increased in popularity in recent years. What has been dubbed the ‘UFO’ restaurant atop the modern Novy Most bridge offers unparalleled views of the city. Bratislava has also become extremely popular for stag weekends from the UK, resulting in the city’s being dubbed ‘Partyslava’ by some.
Bratislava, and Central Europe as a whole, is full of deeply-rooted folkloric traditions and cultures of Slavic, Germanic and Hungarian origin.
Reduta Building home of the Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra
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GEOGRAPHY AND CITYSCAPE Geography and Cityscape
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he capital city of Bratislava is in the southwestern corner of the country, where the borders of Austria and Hungary meet Slovakia. It’s nestled on the edge of the Little Carpathian Mountains and sits astride the Danube River. Another river, the Morava, forms the northwestern boundary of the city, and the Little Danube and Vydrica Rivers are nearby. As well as being partly located in the mountains, Bratislava is also situated on the edge of the Zahorie and Danubian lowlands. Although flooding has been a problem in the past in some of these low-lying areas, the government is now in the process of building new flood protection to address this issue.
Although flooding has been a problem in the past, the government is now in the process of building new flood protection to address this issue.
In addition to the many rivers in the area, Bratislava has a number of both natural and man-made lakes within its boundaries. Some of the more popular ones are Kuchajda in Nove Mesto, Strkovec Lake in Ruzinov and Zlate Piesky and the Vajorny lakes in the northeast. Rusovce Lake in the south is a favoured destination for nudists. The city covers 367 sq km and goes from a low point of 126 metres above sea level at the river to a high of 514 metres at Devinska Kobyla. Bratislava
Lale Kuchajda and the Millennium Towers, Bratislava
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GEOGRAPHY AND CITYSCAPE
Like most European cities, Bratislava is a mix of the old and the new.
Forest Park is within the city’s boundaries and forests cover most of its 27 sq km. Horsky Park in the city centre is the largest park, and across the river is another large natural area, Janko Kral Park, built in the 1770s. The zoo is in Mlynska dolina and the Botanical Gardens are on the banks of the Danube. The political and economic centre of Slovakia, Bratislava is home to both the national government and many financial institutions and large businesses. It boasts numerous universities, museums, theatres and galleries, and has a thriving cultural scene. Like most European cities, Bratislava is a mix of the old and the new. The Old Town contains most of the city’s historical buildings, dating back to medieval times. Among the oldest is Michael’s Gate, the only surviving section of the town’s medieval fortifications. The Bratislava Town Hall and City Museum are also housed in buildings dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries. There are a number of baroque palaces throughout this area, as well as many churches and cathedrals, some dating back to the 13th century. Bratislava Castle, Devin Castle and Rusovce Mansion are other important
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GEOGRAPHY AND CITYSCAPE historical landmarks, as are the Roman ruins of Gerulata, which date back to the 1st to 4th centuries AD. More recent buildings of interest include the Novy Most bridge, with its spherical tower restaurant; the Kamiz TV Tower, with its rotating restaurant; and the inverted pyramid headquarters of Slovak Radio. The beginning of the twenty-first century has seen a building boom radically alter the cityscape. Along with private real estate development, new public and private buildings, including the Most Apollo and the Slovak National Theatre, have transformed the city.
Bratislava’s location in the heart of central Europe makes it an ideal place from which to explore the rest of the continent.
International, multi-lane highways connect Bratislava to neighbouring countries and the rest of Slovakia. The D1 motorway heads east and the D2 connects the city with Hungary to the south and the Czech Republic to the northwest. The two motorways are linked by a partial ring road on the south side of the Danube, the fastest way to get from one end of the city to the other. Bratislava’s location in the heart of central Europe makes it an ideal place from which to explore the rest of the continent. Vienna is only 62 km away, Budapest 196 km and Prague 324, making them easily reachable.
The Carpathian Mountains, Slovakia
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LIVING IN BRATISLAVA
MAP LISTINGS
7 Hopsasa Play Cafe Sustekova 51, Bratislava (0917 449 570, www.hopsasa.sk, hopsasa@ hopsasa.sk) 8 Horaren Lesna 1, 811 04 Bratislava (5478 9050, www.horaren.sk) 9 Klub Palisady Sancova 9, 811 06 Bratislava (0915 428 124, www.klubpalisady.sk, info@ klubpalisady.sk) 10 Trampolino OC Cubicon, Stare Grunty 24, 841 04 Bratislava (0903 779 793, www.trampolino.sk, trampolino.sk@gmail.com) 11 The Bratislava Puppet Theatre Dunajska 36, 811 08 Bratislava (5292 3668, www.babkovedivadlo.sk, bbdbrtis@stonline.sk)
community 1 Jewish Religious Community in Bratislava (5441 6949, www.chatamsofer.com, znoba@ stonline.sk) 2 Masses in English – Orthodox Church Panenska, Bratislava 3 St. Ladislav Catholic Parish Veterna 1, 81103 Bratislava (0905 829 830, www.catholics.sk, feedback@ catholics.sk) 4 Bratislava International Church Palisady 48, 81106 Bratislava (5443 3263, www.bratislavainternationalchurch.org, BratislavaInternationalChurch@ gmail.
12 ZOO Bratislava Mlynska dolina 1, 842 27 Bratislava (6010 2111, www.zoobratislava.sk, zoo@ zoobratislava.sk)
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helping others to be the best they can be Education and learning has always been our focus and our area of expertise. Our people and the people we work with all have a good understanding of what this means to us. We aim to provide students with the opportunity to be the best they can be. WWW. N OR DA N GLI A .COM /B R ATIS LAVA
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