Essentials Guide Warsaw by the British International School, Shanghai

FIRST EDITION

THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE WARSAW W W W.N OR DAN GLIA.COM /WAR S AW

THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE WARSAW W W W.NOR DAN GLIA.COM /WAR S AW

THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE

WARSAW WWW. N ORDANG L IA.COM /WARSAW

Secondary Design - Travis Murray Primary Copywriting - Anna Kutor Copyediting / Proofreading - Aelred Doyle While every possible effort has been taken to ensure that the facts contained within this guide are accurate, Nord Anglia cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that this guide may contain. No part of this guide may be reproduced or distributed, by electronic means or any other, without the prior permission of Nord Anglia Ltd.

TABLE OF CONTENTS PREPARING TO GO Introduction p 8 History p 20

Money and Banking p 58 Getting Connected p 60 Health Care p 64

Culture p 22

Temporary Accommodation p 68

Demographics p 24

Finding Housing p 74

Cityscape p 25

Getting Settled p 80

Country Map p 26

Culture Shock p 82

Language p 28

Education p 85

Climate p 29

Education Supplement p 92

Regional Map p 30 Administrative Preparations p 32 Address, Phone

LIVING IN WARSAW

and Finances p 34

Health and Wellness p 135

Embassies p 36

Eating and Drinking p 138

Books, Films and Music p 40

Shopping p 146

WHEN YOU ARRIVE Landing p 46 Getting Around p 49

Neighbourhood Descriptions p 154 Conclusion p 168

helpi ng others thrive

Education and learning have always been our focus and our area of expertise. Our people and the people we work with all have a good understanding of what this means to us. We aim to provide students with the opportunity to be the best they can be. www.thebritishschool.pl

Introduction

y moving to Warsaw you’re embarking on an exciting, absorbing – and often amazing – journey. In a city once seen as the ugly duckling of Eastern Europe, newcomers are usually surprised to find a modern, manageable metropolis that is firmly rooted in history yet amazingly forward looking. Those who delve beneath the surface discover that the ‘phoenix city’ has a lot more mojo up its sleeve.

Though wartime scars and rough-around-the-edges socialist structures still linger, the city has benefited from a major construction boom and ongoing efforts at urban renewal in the past two decades. Today, Warsaw exudes a yin-yang synergy of old-world charm, communist leftovers and 21st-century modernity that lures a constant flow of foreigners from all over the globe. Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re here for a year-long interlude or planning to settle for a lifetime, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find plenty in the way of business opportunities, cultural enrichment and quality of life.Â

arsaw has a reputation for being a formal, business-oriented city. As one of Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most rapidly growing capitals, there are certainly plenty of international businesses and corporate HQs to house cubicle dwellers and bureaucrats, but the multitude of parks, user-friendly public spaces and mushrooming dining and imbibing venues offer a myriad of entertainment possibilities. In truth, Warsaw constantly changes costumes in her many roles as the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s business capital, chic urban seductress, steely business titan and fledgling contemporary artist.Â

he beauty of living and working in Warsaw, here in this vibrant microcosm of Poland, is the aura of authenticity and consistent development, even in paths well-worn by the locals. This city presents a great deal of opportunity for foreign entrepreneurs and families alike â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a diversifying expat community, cultural immersion and a good deal of historic treasures and gastronomic delicacies.

Warsaw also poses its own unique set of difficulties, from linguistic barriers and long-winded bureaucratic procedures to unexpected cultural quirks. Successfully adjusting to this new environment, culture and community takes time, a good attitude, flexibility and most of all patience. But getting through the settling-in phase will bring its rewards: new friendships, a broadened network of business contacts and a world of new experiences. 13

his Essentials Guide Warsaw is designed to help you establish a Warsaw residence smoothly and speedily. The transition from newcomer to in-the-know expatriate isn’t necessarily a tiptoe through the beetroot field. Despite its challenges, Warsaw is now a much easier place to live and work as an expat. Whether you’re moving with the aid of a relocation company or going the do-it-yourself route, these pages will guide you in your search for the right neighbourhood, the right restaurant, the right market or simply a relaxing, green oasis.

PREPARING TO GO

CONTENTS

PREPARING TO GO INTRO

Preparing to go will be as much a mental journey as it will be a practical one. Understanding more about the culture you are about to encounter will help prepare you for the experience. You can read a book or watch a movie we recommend or you can engage in your own research. Either way, the process will reward you. The practical aspects of preparation are, of course, vital to ensuring that your journey begins on a positive note. This section will help you prepare on both fronts.

History p 20 Culture p 22 Demographics p 24 Cityscape p 25 Country Map p 26 Language p 28 Climate p 29 Regional Map p 30 Administrative Preparations p 32 Address, Phone and Finances p 34 Embassies p 36 Books, Films and Music p 40

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HISTORY History

Traces of the city’s layered past, with all its triumphs, tragedies and inherent complexities, are intricately woven into the tapestry of the landscape, often in moving and unexpected ways.

xuding a sense of steely determination and strength, Warsaw (Warszawa) wears its roller-coaster history and cultural heritage on its sleeve. Traces of the city’s layered past, with all its triumphs, tragedies and inherent complexities, are intricately woven into the tapestry of the landscape, often in moving and unexpected ways. It’s a remarkably proud and picturesque place that rightly deserves its accolade as the ‘phoenix city’. Situated on the banks of the Vistula River in the central lowlands of Poland, Warsaw traces its beginnings to the 10th century but was only put on the map in the 13th century when Mazovian dukes built a stronghold on a high embankment next to the river. The township grew in size and importance under the direction of the dukes and later, in 1569, became the seat of the Sejm, the Polish parliament, thanks to its central location in the new union between Lithuania and Poland. Following a fire at the royal Wawel Castle in Krakow in 1596, the king’s permanent residence was moved to Warsaw, ushering in a long period of prosperity and intense architectural activity. In 1815, however, Poland’s weak international position allowed the Russians to take control over the city, and despite a sequence of rebellions it was not until the onset of World War I that this rule effectively ended. Warsaw once again became the administrative capital and the scientific and spiritual centre of independent Poland in 1918. The German invasion of 1939, however, ensured that this feeling of freedom was all too short-lived.

Warsaw during WWII

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HISTORY The systematic annihilation of Jews and the destruction of Warsaw by Nazi troops, followed by the 63-day-long Warsaw Uprising in 1944, left some 850,000 Varsovians dead and 85 percent of the urban landscape in ruins. The west bank of the city was a smouldering burial ground on which new socialist authorities painstakingly rebuilt all of the old monuments from the 14th and 18th centuries. Apart from these elaborate renovations, the rest of the city was rebuilt in decidedly socialist fashion, with wide boulevards, large squares for political gatherings, a profusion of monumental buildings and blocks after characterless blocks of grey, dull flats. The only area where the pre-war architecture and urban layout remained intact was Praga, on the eastern bank of the Vistula River, an area that evaded much of the wartime damage.

The rapid economic growth, technical progress and increasing demand for debonair design of the past two decades triggered an explosion of new-age structures and an exciting period in spatial expression.

The economic and political paradigm shift of 1989, when Poland and the rest of Central Europe shook off the communist yoke, moved the city in a new direction. The rapid economic growth, technical progress and increasing demand for debonair design of the past two decades triggered an explosion of new-age structures and an exciting period in spatial expression. With the state of architecture and interior design characterised by dramatic change and transition, Warsawâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ever-expanding cityscape now boasts a number of sleek skyscrapers, several high-rise commercial buildings and a forest of visually pleasing commercial sites and culinary establishments. As a result, 21st-century Warsaw is a vibrant city full of beauty, culture and an eclectic mix of old and new.

Old versus new architecture in Warsaw

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CULTURE Culture

Preserving their traditions and creative flair helped Poles cope with the trauma of communist dictatorship.

assionate, Powerful and Poignant – a number of words beginning with the letter P have been used to describe Polish culture. Most applicable, however, is the word Profuse. The country’s past, present and nascent artistic and ethnic traditions are still practised, not only in Krakow, Poland’s so-called capital of culture, but in Warsaw too. Preserving their traditions and creative flair helped Poles cope with the trauma of communist dictatorship. In response to the climate of fear and political and social distress, art developed in two different directions: the official art circuit spawning Socialist Realist odes to the state, and an underground art scene that strove for artistic freedom in the face of censorship and oppression. The strong contrast between these parallel perspectives in art profoundly influenced Poland’s cultural artifacts, which range from monumental stone statues of brawny soldiers and statesmen encrusting Soviet-era landmarks to contemporary poster art. Nowadays, Warsaw serves up a smorgasbord of artistic delights. The city’s creative vim and vigour can be felt from the impressive classical music

Traditional Polish dancing

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CULTURE

Grand Theatre and Polish National Opera

productions in the opera to the avant-garde dance performances staged in run-down factories. This vibrancy is also tangible in the stylish and eclectic range of fashion shows and the trailblazing modern design products, as well as in the expanding number of cultural venues, the latest of which are the state-of-the-art Chopin Museum (www.chopin. museum) and the interactive Copernicus Science Center (www.kopernik.org. pl). Exhibitions and festivals draw crowds of major international stars and up-and-coming talent in the fields of cinema, dance, theatre and street art, to list but a few. Visitors may be surprised by how eagerly Varsovians have embraced consumer culture, with a dizzying selection of shopping venues and entertainment outlets. But below the surface lies a society still firmly rooted in the traditional values of family, community and the Catholic Church. Poles’ strong religious devotion inspires regular church attendance – at a rate estimated at about 70 percent of the total population – and continues to exert a major influence on the moral values of the country as well as on its political life. Annual celebrations follow the religious calendar, with Christmas and Easter the most important of the year.

Below the surface lies a society still firmly rooted in the traditional values of family, community and the Catholic Church.

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DEMOGRAPHICS Geography

The Vistula (Wisla) River, famed for its wild and unregulated riverbanks, snakes its way through the capital and separates its lively and flourishing centre from its more downtrodden eastern districts.

arsaw is Europe’s ninth-largest city, covering 518 sq km. This extensive territory is for the most part flat, appropriate for the capital of a country whose name is derived from the Polish word for ‘plain’. The city is fringed by the Kampinos National Park to the west and the Kabacki Forest to the south. It’s in the east-central area of the country, in the heartland Mazovia Province, the largest and most populous of Poland’s 16 provinces. The Vistula (Wisla) River, famed for its wild and unregulated riverbanks, snakes its way through the capital and separates its lively and flourishing centre from its more downtrodden eastern districts.

Population

s the largest metropolitan area in the country, Warsaw is currently home to an estimated 1.72 million people. These figures are swayed by the increasing number of commuters, numbering in the thousands, who arrive in the city during the working week. There are no exact figures for the number of expats living and working in Warsaw, but Eurostat, the European Union’s statistical office, puts the number of foreigners in Poland at about 35,000, which amounts to just 0.1 percent of the population.

Evening crowd, Warsaw

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CITYSCAPE Cityscape

city of contrasts, Warsaw is a mish-mash of the old and the new. Sacred temples rub elbows with gleaming sky-piercing buildings and sprawling public parks offer respite from the hustle and bustle of the metropolis, while residential enclaves with grey blocks of flats evoke the same images and emotions as they did forty years ago. The city’s diversity takes into account all preferences and needs: forests, a monumental river bank, a few small lakes and parks that criss-cross the city from north to south. Warsaw is divided into 18 districts, the largest of which is Wawer to the east of the Vistula River and the smallest Zoliborz, a precinct just north of the lively centre. Right in the middle of the urban jungle is the Palace of Culture and Science, a 230-metre-tall cake-shaped structure that is an ever-present reference point to get your bearings. This indelible landmark was commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift’ from the Soviet Union to the Polish citizens, a towering symbol of socialism that still carries a bitter aftertaste.

Warsaw is divided into 18 districts, the largest of which is Wawer to the east of the Vistula River and the smallest Zoliborz, a precinct just north of the lively centre.

Białołęka

Bielany

Bemowo

Targówek Żoliborz

Wola

Rembertów

Praga Północ Praga Południe

Śródmieście

Wesoła

Ochota

Ursus

Wawer

Mokotów Włochy Wilanów Ursynów

Warsaw’s districts

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LANGUAGE Language

As foreigners will soon discover, Polish, by world standards, is considered a rather difficult language to master.

In recent years the influence of English has been particularly strong, due in part to globalisation but also to the desire of Poles to have a Western orientation.

olish is the official language of the Republic of Poland and the mother tongue of the vast majority of its 38 million people. As with all living languages, Polish reflects the history and values of the country and its people, and is in constant flux alongside the historical, social and cultural changes. Due to the close cultural and political ties of Czech Bohemia with Poland and the German colonisation of western parts of the country, these vernaculars have had a large and lasting impact on the Polish lexicon, particularly in the realm of vocabulary. Later, during the 17th century, thanks to the dominance and cultural influence of the PolishLithuanian Commonwealth, Polish spread through various regions of Central and Eastern Europe. From this high point, the language’s sphere of influence shrank with the onset of Russian control, but it is widely understood and spoken by people in the western areas of Lithuania, Ukraine and Belarus as a first or second language. As foreigners will soon discover, Polish, by world standards, is considered a rather difficult language to master; after all, it has a bunch of consonant clusters and nasalised sounds, and abounds in grammar and punctuation rules with twice as many exceptions as rules. Like the Slovak and Czech tongues, Polish belongs to the West-Slavic group of the Indo-European family of languages. It uses the Latin alphabet and is augmented with diacritical marks appearing above and below certain letters. Polish is extremely rich phonetically, with 10 vowels and 35 consonants. As an inflectional language, it distinguishes seven cases, and has three genders in the singular and two in the plural. Verbs are conjugated by person, tense, mood, voice and aspect. All things considered, learning the language may take years of concentrated time and effort, but it’s advisable to acquaint yourself with the basic vocabulary and grammar early on to enable you to handle simple everyday situations and make your stay more rewarding. As in any country, Polish people appreciate it when foreigners make an effort, and it’s also polite to briefly apologise for not speaking the local language. In recent years the influence of English has been particularly strong, due in part to globalisation but also to the desire of Poles to have a Western orientation. English is increasingly used by the younger generation and in business circles, as well as in the expanding tourist service industry. If you get lost or need help, there’s often a friendly English-speaking local to help you out in larger cities and beyond, although of course in villages and remote spots you cannot rely on this. Strong links with Russia and Germany mean these languages are also widely spoken, especially in border zones.

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CLIMATE Climate

oland has a mixture of continental and maritime climate, due to its geographical position in central Europe. Lowlands characterise the larger part of the country, with high mountain ranges following the parallels of latitude in the south. Warsaw, close to the centre of the country, has a predominantly continental character and experiences extreme fluctuations in seasonal temperatures and mild precipitation. You’ll find that it has four distinct seasons, with bitterly cold grey winters; relatively hot, humid and rainy summers; and crisp and mostly clear weather in between, making the autumn months perhaps the most pleasant time of the year and by far the best time to invite friends and family to come for a visit. October’s bursts of vivid golds and reds create a stunning panorama.

The autumn months are perhaps the most pleasant time of the year in Warsaw.

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Jan

Millimetres of Precipitation

Average Daily High in ºCelsius

here is usually snow from December through February, when temperatures can dip as low as -20°C. Mostly sun-filled warm days can be expected from May to September, with temperatures reaching 20-25°C, at times climbing even higher. However, it’s important to mention that the weather’s most remarkable feature is changeability; in the course of two or three days temperature differences can vary by as much as 15-20°C.

Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Warsaw climate chart

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ADMINISTRATIVE PREPARATIONS Administrative preparations

This process can be complicated and can take up to three months, so starting as early as possible is recommended.

hether you’re moving from a neighbouring country or a different continent, prepare for the immigration and work permit process well in advance. This process can be complicated and can take up to three months, so starting as early as possible is recommended. For updated procedures and regulations on Polish visas and work permits, contact the Polish embassy or consulate in your home country before relocating.

Visa and documents

itizens from the European Union and the European Economic Area do not require a visa to enter and stay in Poland for less than three months. The only requirement for entry is either a passport or identity card that is valid for at least 90 days following the departure date. However, while identity cards are accepted at all points of entry to Poland, the local authorities may not accept them when applying for a residence permit; so if you’re an EU citizen and wish to reside and work in Poland longterm, it’s best to have a passport. As an active participant in the Schengen visa agreement, which facilitates the free and unhindered movement of holders of Schengen visas throughout the 25 countries included in the regime, any visa or residence permit issued by one of the Schengen States is also valid in Poland. For tourist or business travel of up to 90 days in duration, Poland also extends the no-visa entrance courtesy to a group of nations including Australia, Canada, the UK, the US, Japan, Hong Kong, South Korea and dozens of others worldwide. The complete list of visa-exempt nations can be found on the Ministry of Foreign Affairs’ website, www.msz.gov.pl.

Applying for a visa is mandatory for citizens of many countries, including Russia, Albania, Belarus, Ukraine, China, Serbia, Moldova, Montenegro, Macedonia and India.

Applying for a visa is mandatory for citizens of many countries, including Russia, Albania, Belarus, Ukraine, China, Serbia, Moldova, Montenegro, Macedonia and India. Visa options depend on the purpose and duration of your stay, but visas for tourists and business visits are often grouped together under the collective terms ‘regular visas’ and ‘short stay visas’. Visas for short stays are issued in one of two categories, for either tourism or business. The duration of the short-term tourist visa is based on the applicant’s requirements and the length of time granted can vary from one day to several weeks or more, but not over 90 days. Business visas are designed for people entering Poland in order to engage in business activities, but do not authorise the holder to gain employment. Holders of this temporary visa may attend various business functions but

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ADMINISTRATIVE PREPARATIONS may not be paid during their stay in the country. All applicants must have a valid passport, travel itinerary and proof of: • adequate prospective accommodation in Poland • health insurance / coverage for medical treatment • financial means to stay in Poland Additionally, for business visas the applicant must include a letter from the employer giving details of the purpose and duration of the trip, as well as a letter of invitation from a Polish company. Individuals who plan to take up employment or to stay longer than three months (for example, as an employee, student or non-employed resident) will also need to apply for various types of visas.

When moving to Poland as a family, be prepared to provide a range of documents and records, as schools and universities will require these.

Family members are entitled to apply for the same type of visa for the same period as the principal visa applicant. The application process is the same as for the head of the family, and all visa paperwork should be submitted at the same time. The required documents for application are: • proof of family relationship in the form of birth and / or marriage certificate • proof of accommodation, health insurance and sufficient financial resources When moving to Poland as a family, be prepared to provide a range of documents and records, as schools and universities will require these. Before you move, contact your child’s current and previous schools and request authorised copies of all their certificates and diplomas. Also bring along birth certificates and medical records, as these will come in handy when applying for various permits. Here is a checklist of documents you’ll need to bring with you for a long-term stay in Poland: • • • • • • • • •

Valid passport, national identity card and visa Birth certificates of all family members Children’s school records University diploma and certificates of skills Driving licence Marriage certificate Medical records Inventory of personal effects shipped Car documents

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ADDRESS, PHONE AND FINANCES Address and phone

Be aware that business hours may be completely different in your home country so taking care of business by phone may be very inconvenient.

otify your credit card company and bank of your change of address or your impending trip abroad so that they don’t become suspicious of foreign transactions and block your charges. Do the same for magazine subscriptions and any Internet payment transfer services that require a current, active address. If your mobile phone works in Poland and you want to keep your current number, you may want to consider roaming with your current service. Depending on your phone, you can also replace the foreign SIM card with a local Polish one, which will be convenient and much more economical. This process is easy and inexpensive as Poland has a dizzying array of networks and contract or pay-as-you-go options, each with a wide range of tariffs covering connection fees, call charges and insurance.

Finance

nother step in the pre-move planning process is deciding how you will manage your financial expenses once you’ve settled into your new home. Regardless of whether you decide to keep your current account, it’s advisable to set up a bank account in Poland so you have a place to transfer your funds and arrange monthly payments for the rent, utilities and other expenses. To open an account in Warsaw, all you need is your passport and evidence of your local address – a utility bill usually suffices. Contact your bank in your homeland to get details on procedures for international transfers. Check the status of your taxes and pension plans and make the necessary arrangements for these to be processed while you are away.

Old Town spring gardens in Warsaw

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helping others to be the best they can be Education and learning has always been our focus and our area of expertise. Our people and the people we work with all have a good understanding of what this means to us. We aim to provide students with the opportunity to be the best they can be. WWW. N OR DA N G LI A .COM /WAR S AW

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