British MODE October 2013 by BritishMODE

October 2013

Stylist Aaron Carlo On Little Mix

Wedding Fairy Bling Bouquets

Kevin Freeman

On Celebs & Vogue

Nano-Tech The Latest Beauty Trend

d e k i Sp

@BritishMODE

BritishMODETV

britishmodemagazine.co.uk

Editor-in-Chief Gabriella Enriocco

Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s PA Sophia Moretti 07514412050 Fashion Editor

Moira Valenti

Features Editor

Isabelle Porteous

Beauty & Fragrance Editor Caroline Topperman

Bridal Editor

Rebecca Martin

Columnists

George Watts Belinda Chorley Vicki Lord Kelly Millar

@BritishMODE

BritishMODETV

britishmodemagazine.co.uk

Writers

Sophie Milner, Kirsti Reid Madeleine Spencer , Kimberleigh Spreadbury

In House Artists

Alex Douglas Newton Caroline Jeffery

Photographer Liam Smith

Videographer Daniel Gold

International Presenter Ileana Madarnaz

International Videographer Lizbella Molina

HR Manager Samantha Roberts

Monsoon

Spiked

Regulars

Contents

10 Editor’s Letter 37 British MODE Loves 76 British MODE Loves Menswear 128 Wedding Fairy SOS 164 British MODE Loves Bridal 182 Honeymoon Essentials

Cover Look

Fashion 12 24 28 32

Pritch London Unzipped Leather & Lace; Iconic Duality I’m on fire - Hosewear My London Fashion Week Experience 42 Autumnal Accessory Obsessions 46 Draw In Light AW13 Photography; Luke Woodford 48 Jose Clemente AW13 Makeup and Hair; Rosie Lee 58 3 Young British Designers You Accessories; Rosie Fox Knitwear for Renaissance by Joanna SutherShould Know land-Young 62 Unleash Your Inner Vixen Sculptured rose skirt to order from 64 Contemporary Japanese Kevin Freeman at Renaissance Designers 72 Style Rebels & Green Heros 78 Aaron Carlo On Working With Little Mix 86 Celebrity Stylist & Columnist Vicki Lord, On Recent Trends

Beauty 94 Art Deco Giveaway 98 Inside Our Beauty Editor’s Makeup Bag 100 This Season’s Hottest Lip Trends 102 Nano-Tech Me

Misc

108 Breakthrough Breast Cancer 198 Diego Jacquet’s Beef Empanadas 200 Jeremy Pascal’s Cool Cocktail Recipes 204 Claude’s Kitchen Cocktails 210 Master Mixologist Nick Strangeway Shares His Been Cocktail Concoctions 186 Xynergy Anti Ageing Fitness Plan

Bridal 110 Renowned Designer Kevin Freeman On Vogue & Working With Celebrities 112 Dare To Be Different Belinda Chorley 128 Wedding Fairy SOS 137 Siobhan Craven-Robins, Planning A Perfect Wedding 140 Bejewelled Brooch Bouquets 142 Creating Your Own Beautiful Bridal Bouquet 144 2013-14 Wedding Cake Trends 146 3 Renowned Cake Designers On Future Trends 150 The Sweet Stylist 152 The Wedding Fairy’s Big Day Breakdown 158 Hen Parties for the Daring & Sophisticated 164 Contemporary Venues For The Decidedly Trendy Bride 176 Secret Retreats Adventurous Asian Honeymoons

Image courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Editor’s letter The Rebirth of Rebellion

This month we celebrate fearless designers, unafraid to express themselves in the most utterly unique and rebellious fashion. The rebel has been for so long, a point of discussion, a topic to be shunned, someone to be frowned upon; yet this season we experience a refreshing rebirth of rebellion and the freedom which comes along with it. Design is in many ways a reflection of life as it is, in the moment; yet seldom do we pause to consider the incredibly well thought out representations of modern society - in its ever changing form. These intricately designed creations, meticulously crafted by the most patient and artistic amongst us, serve a purpose far greater than is thought. Not only are they a historical documentation of an age and of an era, they become the life raft of a young child, or the hope of a young adult who is yet to discover who they truly are. Both ironically and iconically, fashion will always be an ever changing mirror, with the ability to grant us a glimpse into a past filled with endless stories, or to reveal a present and a future filled with our innermost thoughts, hopes and dreams. At a time where everything is changing and so little is stable, it is always heart warming to see British designers, particularly young talent, continuing to ‘break through’ and to succeed. The growth of something truly extraordinary is always interesting to observe, but as Editor-in-Chief of this wonderful publication, I have the unique privileged of being able to experience something of the sort, first hand. This season draws inspiration from several of the world’s largest ethnic groups, particularly those from Asia - a trend which we have touched upon slightly this month. As ever I hope you will enjoy October’s issue and continue to observe as we go from strength to strength, creating a forward thinking magazine for those who don't hesitate to challenge themselves, and for those who realise that change is the only way forward.

Gabriella Enriocco

Gabriella Enriocco, Editor-in-Chief 11

Pritch

London

Unzi

ipped

Article by Sophie Milner

High in rock star glamour and more haute couture than hells angels, Pritch London offers a stylish and unique take on the classic leather jacket. Founded by the smart and sophisticated Arina, the designs are purpose-built for the head-turning, innovative and cosmopolitan woman. In the deepest, darkest and most dangerous blacks, Pritch London designs are unrivalled in elegant defiance. The traditional leather jacket is reborn. Each individual and distinctive

tric designs. Why leather jackets? They are effortlessly cool, absolutely timeless and dripping with rock and roll glamour. Inspired by making something out of nothing, the brand has reinvented and restyled the humble leather jacket; transforming it like a phoenix from a simple wardrobe staple to a defiant and striking style statement. The vision of Pritch London is clear and consistent - create the most outstanding jackets that demand attention and express

design mirrors the independent and free nature of its wearer. The new face of leather is neither blasĂŠ nor hell-bent; it is affluent, invitingly rebellious, and dangerously chic.

diversity for those individuals who dare to push the boundaries of fashion and life. This philosophy is ingrained deep within the brand and each and every piece in the collection is overflowing with individualism. Innovative, energetic and original are Never just an item of outerwear, each design words regularly associated with designers, is an outspoken piece of wearable artwork. and Arina, founder of Pritch, is no exception with her ground breaking and elec- The ideal clientele are the fascinating, dar17

Who do you want to be today?

ing, and metropolitan women of today. The brand knows its customer well, enticing the affluent rebels with a risquĂŠ style vibe. Her multi-layered personality shines through the multifaceted designs and the unique features on every jacket, which embody the very essence of her individuality.

ences, playing up to dreams of fashion rebellion and hell-bent style revolution. Elegant designs and classic tailoring steal an unrivalled rock star edge in Pritchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more feminine creations. Glossy leather in high-shine gothic black injects a rock and roll influence into the trailing trains and peplum waists of the classically ladylike silhouettes throughout the collection. Seductive contours and nipped in waists gracefully flare over the hips, creating defiantly chic and eye-catching designs. These pieces combine an energetic and unapologetic mix of class and rebellion which conjure images of edginess, direction and power.

Designs are imagined without limits. The collection oozes with character that is rich in rebellion and dark with desirability. Fiercely fringed epaulettes adorn the shoulders of Pritchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s outspoken Shotgun jacket. Midnight black soft suede creates a more sensuous approach to biker chic. Studs stand strongly across shoulders like cast-iron stalagmites on the Studded Eagle. These designs are For Pritch, experimentation is key to creoverflowing with on trend biker influ- ativity. Many of the designs feature patch20

All images courtesy of Pritch London

work seams, additional capes, removable sleeves and hidden sections that create unanticipated and endless style combinations to match any outfit or look. The only question asked, 'who do you want to be today?' The outspoken designs play to every fantasy: rebel, vixen, and rock star. From a radical good-girl-gone-bad to a sinister but seductive queen, those who wear Pritch become style chameleons. Ultimately, the designs reflect and echo the strength of womanhood: multidimensional, strong and outspoken. Unrivalled in quality and produced to perfection, the jackets are crafted from the finest leathers in Italy. Antelope Silk, Agneau Guanterie and Agneau Guanterie Suede â&#x20AC;&#x201C; fabrics of such a high calibre which are fit for rock and roll royalty. The

seductively soft leathers and suedeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s are then adorned with customized silver zips and branded zip pulls, metal snaps, and an original lining to create the ultimate haute couture statement leather piece. Invitingly rebellious and dangerously energetic, Pritch designs inject power and prowess. The head-turning designs defy ages and forever demand attention. Combining outstanding leather craftsmanship with articulate and daring designs, the collection is as much about asking questions as it is about making statements. Who do you want to be? Who do you dare to be? Whether a demure vixen darling, or an anarchic rock star royal, be unapologetically rebellious in Pritch. 21

Left wears Top £28, Skirt £28 Right Wears Gilet £49, Dress £39 All items by Oh My Love

Image courtesy of Valentino

Leather & Lace Iconic Duality Article by Rebecca Martin

Across the runways from New York to Paris, a myriad of designers merged tough girl chic leather with the sensual romance of lace, combining two eternal classics and in turn creating collections of perfect equilibrium that see leather and lace taking a starring role as two of the most popular trends for both SS13 and AW13. From the full leather skirts, laser-cut to incorporate delicate black lace that formed the basis of Jason Wu’s SS13 ‘Extreme Femininity’ collection, to engineered lace and layered leather looks shown by Proenza Schouler for AW13, right now texture truly is reigning supreme.

style, leather has become a fashion mainstay. From its original form as the functional shearling aviator jacket, the black leather jacket has gone on to become one of the most iconic pieces of clothing in history, and one that remains incredibly current today. Combined with blue denim and white cotton as the calling card of bad boy heartthrobs James Dean and Marlon Brando, rocked by the achingly cool Danny Zuko and his T-Birds in 1950’s themed film ‘Grease’, and serving as the spiked, studded and safety pin emblazoned uniform of The Sex Pistols and Vivienne Westwood in the 1970’s punk era, the leathFew can question the er jacket’s populariimportance leather ty spans the decades. and lace has played in fashion history, with Style icon Elvis Presley crafted a potent its prominence refusing to wane. Origi- image as the bad boy of Rock n Roll, with nally born out of functionality rather than his iconic leather outfits synonymous with 25

Testament to lace as an equally timeless fabric, Coco Chanel described it as one of few ‘precious objects’ which has managed to keep its main characteristics ‘precious elegance, lightness and luxury’, even in the face of industrialisation. One of the defining features of the 1920’s flapper style made iconic by the silver screen goddesses Zelda Fitzgerald and Clara Bow; delicate lace combined with silk and chiffon in dazzling drop-waist dresses, gave a romantic edge to tea dresses and was crafted into the most glamorous of cloches and skull caps. Even in the sartorially restrictive 1940’s when war led to restrictions in the use of certain fabrics, the lace blouse remained a wardrobe staple, paired with satin skirts for soirées. 26

Elizabeth Taylor’s lace wedding dress in ‘Father of the Bride’ (1950) became the most imitated dress of the post-war era during the 1950’s, with lace becoming the fabric of choice for all fashion focused brides and darling prom princesses. In contrast, the swinging 1960’s saw lace feature on simpler shapes, with lace collars and cuffs decorating velvet mini dresses, a look made famous by the likes of models Mary Quant, Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton. Today, Valentino’s SS13 collection features feminine white lace dresses paired with bold white leather handbags, with their AW13 collection boasting a statement red leather trench coat along with a blue leather A-line dress with white lace yoke and cuff detailing, serving as further testament to the versatility of these two fashion staples. With delicate lace juxtaposed against high-shine patents at Jonathan Saunders, or paired with soft buttery leathers at Lanvin and Erdem, it is impossible to ignore the significance of these two iconic fabrics and their perpetual capability to adapt across the seasons and over the decades.

Image courtesy of Louis Vuitton

his reputation. Consulting costume designer Bill Belew to design the famous allblack leather outfit for his ’68 Comeback’ TV Special in December 1968, Elvis formed a relationship with the designer lasting the duration of his life, seeing Belew create some of Elvis’s most iconic leather pieces memorable today.

Image courtesy of Star Works Group/Vivienne Westwood FW13

I’m On

n Fire

Hosewear 29

Article by Sophie Milner Valiant, heroic, and fearless are words rarely associated with bags and accessories. When the accessories have been crafted from recycled fire hoses that were once used to save peoplesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; lives, a different story is set alight. Estonian brand HoseWear are the masterminds that create bags, iPad cases, belts and much more, that are durable, aesthetically pleasing and eco-friendly.

been an obsession with items that have a past, vintage pieces if you will. Something is instantly more exciting and enticing when we know there's a heart wrenching story behind it. This type of vintage fashion has charmed the fashion pack with its enigmatic history, surrounding each cherished piece. Alluring and mysterious, the ability to imagine the tale behind the garment breathes a new life into a piece. Through upcycling The secret to HoseWearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s success lies in the old fire hoses, HoseWear ignite an edgy exhilarating and fascinating story that burns and ultra-modern twist on this concept. behind each striking bag. There has always 30

This story burns clear and bright. The fire hoses that are sculpted into bags, laptop covers and iPad cases were once used to save lives. Hoses that gave people a second chance at life are given their own second chance through durable, edgy and inimitable fashion. Rarity, individuality and uniqueness are qualities that are endlessly desired in fashion. Nobody wants to be the same. Unique is different. Unique is special. HoseWear embody this notion through the philosophy of their collection; every piece is a one-off, one of a kind creation. Fire hose serial numbers are still in tact and emblazoned over the items. Some have markings from fire fighters and their battles, whilst others are more worn and 'burnt out'. No two items are ever the same, with the wear and tear mirroring their bold, exciting and fearless past. This heightens the individual character and charm of each bag, providing an exclusive sense of extraordinary and individualistic style.

Messenger bags are stylistically timeless, yet rarely are they incredibly durable. Old and retired fire hoses remain fierce and strong; they can still take 20 bar pressure, which is plenty for your laptop, diary and phone. This innovative re-usage of decommissioned fire hoses injects a surge of practicality and effortless cool into classic styles. Tougher than leather yet kinder than animal skins, HoseWear are essentially a fiercely edgy brand promoting sustainability. Upcycling has caused a blaze in the fashion world. Sculpting and crafting fire hoses into modern, practical and durable accessories has saved animal skins, gallons of oil, water and many other natural resources typically used during the manufacturing process. Each HoseWear messenger bag, tote, iPad cover or laptop case has been carefully crafted from the ashes of its former life. The desirability of individual charm coupled with the compelling story that burns behind each piece are qualities that draw us and bond us to our sartorial choices, and are what make HoseWear such a unique company. This is eco style at itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most exciting and edgy. Upcycling might not save the world, but each bag holds a life-saving story. To find out more visit www.hosewear.com 31

â&#x20AC;&#x153;it all blurs into an enchanting conveyor belt of chicnessâ&#x20AC;?

My London Fashion Week Experience By Sophie Milner

From clichés of whirring across the capital in a taxi to fashion shows, to being sabotaged by a car splashing water over a well-planned outfit as it drives by, as expected, London Fashion Week was far from ordinary. Reporting for the magazine I experienced the bi-annual style spectacle of sartorial Shangri-la. Arriving at Somerset house is like stepping into a carnival of fashion. It is circus of chic. Fashion week is like being on a roundabout that never stops spinning. You try to focus and take in your surroundings: the people, the atmosphere, and the clothes; yet so much is happening at every angle that it’s almost impossible. Every glance at each dynamically dressed individual makes your eyes pop and your brain whirr. Blink and you’ll miss that fantastic feathered fascinator. Look away and you’ll miss that couple twinning in matching checks. You focus. You see. Then it all blurs again into an enchanting conveyor belt of chicness. When reporting for a magazine you are not only viewing the most cutting edge collections in fashion, you are sharing them with the world. In journalism you must be organised. A diary or planner is essential. Check

and double-check the location of a show. Ignore the clichés: there is nothing glamorous in diving for a taxi to shoot you across town to a show moments before it is set to begin because you turned up at the wrong location. You’re seated. The music starts. The most enticing reports on designers’ collections are when you can almost feel the show; reports that make the images on the pages come alive and capture the spirit of the designer. Note down everything you see, feel and sense. Every emotion. Every image and picture that sparks in your mind as you see the collection unfold down the catwalk. The show finishes. Take thirty minutes, have a coffee and turn every feeling jotted on paper into sentences. Fashion week can be the most stirring and enticing learning experience. Inspiration comes at you from all angles. It builds a wall around you. Fashion is a powerful thing. It shows who you are without you having to say anything. Experiencing cutting edge fashion first hand lets you look into the future. Take your seat, look around you, have your pen ready and let the magic of a new season unravel. 33

Model on the left Wears Gilet £49, Dress £39 Model on the right wears Top £28, Skirt £28 Designs by Oh My Love

Model on the left Wears Jacket £55, Trouser £32 Model on the right Wears Dress £39 Designs by Oh My Love

LOVES Alexander McQueen wide belt £334.02

Borbonese matte cuff £241.73

Givenchy 'Antigona' large shopping tote £927.35 Weekend by Max Mara 'Ovest' fur collar £155

Michael Kors 'Selma' large tote £345

Fendi structured pump £1569.65

Chanel Vintage leather and chain belt £750

Giuseppe Zanotti Design metallic cuff ankle boot £1080

G.V.G.V. short glove £372.6

Versus Safety Pin Leather Dress £635 Proenza Schouler sleeveless tiered dress £1363.58

McQ by alexander mcqueen leather skirt £1131.20

Repossi 'Maure' ring £3069.15

Fendi fur cuff £399.94

Alexander Wang panelled dress £751.50

Anthony Vaccarello spike pump £569.98

Emanuel Ungaro butterfly earrings £219.75

Proenza Schouler 'PS13' handbag £1973.87

Black metal heel cutout shoe boot - river island £65

Alexander McQueen stained glass print dress £1585

Christian Louboutin Lamu 120 leather ankle boots £945

Iosselliani Faded Fringe Necklace £416.00

Roberto Cavalli Printed stretch-crepe dress £630 Jean Paul Gaultier Demesure Cuff

Michael Kors buckled ankle boot £241.73 41

Autumnal Accessory Obsessions Article by Kirsti Reid

Burberry

Burberry's accessories collection this season is reminiscent of the punk era in an array of studded purses, bags and shoes, alongside animal inspired abstract prints and textured leather. The colour palette consisting of metallic golds and silvers mixed with dark hues of black, aubergine and cerulean blue is on trend with colours of the season. The embellished nature of the collection including all over studding detail and oversized zips, creates an edgy feel that is both stylish and sophisticated. Burberry's statement shopper and cross body bags are perfect for adding that element of punk rock to any outfit. Ankle boots and ballet pumps are the 42

style of choice for the collection, each with their own unique details such as a peep toe or elastic inserts for the perfect fit. Animal print is a reoccurring motif, including a pair of striking calfskin and gold cuffs, along with silk scarves in leopard print with matching ballet flats. Overall the collection flows cohesively with each purse paired with a matching handbag as well as complimentary shoes and an umbrella. Burberry have hit the spot and covered every one of our accessory cravings with this collection from a practical and an aesthetically pleasing point of view. Each piece appears to personify itself in a bold way and deserves to be worn with confidence and attitude.

Richard Weston

Award winning architect Richard Weston turned his hand to fashion design in 2010. He debuted his first collection of silk scarves with unique prints of scanned and magnified images of the insides of the natural world. His focus on rocks, fossils and minerals are an inspiration and his years of experience photographing this area of choice inform his design work. Digital silk printers on the banks of Lake Como are used to produce his prints - each with sewn, hand rolled edges. In addition to scarves, Weston also applies his prints to iphone cases and silk bound journals for a personal, and more artistic feel. AW13 sees a series of prints influenced

by layers of built up car enamel from the Dagenham and Detroit Ford factories dating back to 1970; the paint, which had built up over the years from hand spraying and gathered on the tracks and skids. Once the layered paint hardened they created a structured medium with mineral like qualities. The colour palette is reflective of this particular process with the inclusion of dark, slightly macabre colours as a base, shades of black, navy and purple feature heavily, shot through with swirls and slices of gold, red, blue and pink. His collection of prints have an artistic, fine art feel yet are applied to a 3D product giving it a place in the fashion accessory market also. 43

Images courtesy of Rachel Entwistle

Rachel Entwistle British born jewellery designer Rachel Entwistle, a graduate of University of the Arts in Mexico, discovered a passion for her career whilst travelling in Central and South America – where she became inspired by the cultural relativity in the creative arts. The new designer of the year nominee explores all aspects of the landscape both physical and spiritual in her jewellery work and her latest collection is no exception. Based in East London, Entwistle runs her own jewellery business and co owns boutique Thor & Wistle. To the designer's delight, her new collection entitled “Alchemical” showcased at London Fashion Week. The inspiration

for the collection comes from the philosophical tradition of alchemy, which translates in her artwork as symbols and intricate interlocking shapes, primarily through rings and necklaces. Her delicate work has a gothic undertone which is complimentary and versatile when it comes to styling. Entwistle works mainly in gold and silver, portraying a spiritual story through her mediums. Her cultural background and experience is evident in the work she produces and her enthusiasm for sustainability and working ethically comes through as recycled, fair trade raw materials – which are often used. Overall, the collection is unique and challenges the everyday ideas and perceptions of life. To find out more visit rachelentwistle.co.uk 45

Draw In Light AW13 Article by Krsti Reid

Draw in light is the collaboration of designers Harry Barford and Polly Wilkinson which was founded in 2009. Fatefully, the pair were born in the same hospital in West London on the 20th April 1985, which sewed the seeds of a life long bond; they spent their childhood growing up together. Barford and Wilkinson attended the University of Brighton, studying Textiles for Fashion with Business and were graduates in the summer of 2008. By December the following year “Draw 46

In Light” was created and the pair have been based in their East London studio ever since. This Autumn/Winter will be Draw In Light’s eighth season, they’re stocked in twenty stores worldwide; it is note worthy that they complete the entire manufacturing process from design to print at their London studios. A solely a women’s wear label, the brand specialises in understated garments. Using mostly silk and jersey fabrics, ease and fit lend them-

Images courtesy of Draw In Light, Photographer Ben Weller

selves comfortably to these fabrics properties and so are central to what the brand stands for, Uniqueness, Feel and Luxury. The Autumn/Winter 13 collection is inspired by the sea and skies. Each garment is completely unique and individual due to the free hand silk screen technique which is the distinctive stamp of Draw In Light’s work. The brand combines individuality, delicateness and femininity with a raw edge to create a signature look for which they are famed. The colour palette, similar to that of their previous Spring/Summer collection, is in an array of grey hues with a splash of crimson red on a blanket of stark white and darkest black. The colours from Spring/ Summer have been updated and translated to convey a darker, emotional tone. The sea and skies inspiration is taken literally with prints of stormy night skies on oversized jumper dresses and ships in the night on silk maxi dresses. As much as the influence is taken literally, it as just as much conceptual in other pieces. Intricate monotone repeat print illustrations on T shirt dresses and high neck mini dresses evokes a warped reality and give a hand rendered feel to the collection. The silk screen prints echo the moody, dreaminess of the colour palette with placement prints of choppy seas and pirate like ships under a blanket of stars. The silhouettes are clean and angular and often kept simple so as not to distract from the print. The style of the collection is varied and diverse, having more formal dresses and double breasted coats to less formal hooded sweatshirts with board shorts. Draw In Light have experimented with sheer and transparent fabrics in order to create a layered and reflective effect, like the transparent rain coat over the long maxi dress with printed bottom. High necklines, round necks, long sleeves,

T shirt sleeves and floor length maxi dresses are all strongly featured in this collection. The styling details are quirky in themselves, using found items such as a paint pot and brush to a chair and a ladder, all of which add to that hand rendered, ‘one of a kind’ idea. It helps to portray the garments as pieces of art, that had to be made and physically painted before construction. At one point, an English Bull Terrier is used in the Autumn/Winter 13 look book, a nice touch to emphasize their British roots and the fact that everything they produce is made in London. Overall, Draw In Light’s collection is thought provoking and individual, staying true to their roots and translating their influence in an unusually edgy, albeit feminine way. 47

3 1 W A e t n e m e l C e s o J pencer S e in le e d a M Article by

Peruvian-born Jose Clemente's AW13 collection is clearly inspired by classic European design, visible in the tailoring and playing with texture and colour to suit his vision and achieve his trademark flair. This slightly deconstructed aesthetic manifests itself through the mixture of prints, fab-

novel combinations is evident through his feminine, diaphanous dresses paired with dark leather shoes, the half-unzipped russet leather dress or prim shirt that is unexpectedly rendered peekaboo by the lace fabric. Accessories plays a key part in the mixed element, women's wear uses tradi-

rics and cuts to make novel combinations. tional leather shoes, brogues and stilettos, to highlight the soft, hazy textures of the In the case of menswear this is apparent clothes. The traditional high-shine menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s throughout the collection. There are clas- shoes are shown with a knotted leathsic black and white shirts coupled with er neck cord. The gently dishevelled and coloured trousers and patterned blaz- heavily tattooed appearance of the moders, a pair of corduroy trousers with a els is also key in invoking a sense of play. printed shirt and leather collar. Above all, he rejects uniformity, refusing to There are also more than a few historical stick to a hackneyed three-piece suit. and cultural references running through the collection. There are nods to the 70s, In his women's wear, the desire to create thanks to the wide-brimmed hats and an-

Jose Clemente 53

imal prints, and a South American influence represented in the layering of shawls and textures. These Peruvian touches are also seen in the dusty, warm colours which make up the palette, away from the monochromatic black and white. There is a rather Western, British influence as well - waistbands which echo corsets make an appearance and the subtly mismatched separates calls quintessentially British eccentricity to mind. Of course, Clemente is not the first to bring this marriage of Western fashion with the more exotic to the forte. Since the decline of the heavily influential Parisian couturiers in the 1960s, who would dictate the cut, colour and accessories that were de rigueur and would then be copied the world over; fashion has now opened up to become a melting pot of styles allowing for a less restrained aesthetic. A designer now has the ability to merge their own background with the canonized aesthetics of fashion.

al market. It is significant that the fashion weeks attended by editors are still those of London, New York, Paris and Milan and that it is at these fashion weeks that the coveted looks of the season are decided. Whilst to some extent the exchange works in both directions (take Matthew Williamson, who infuses all his collections with the riot of colours inspired by travel to far-flung destinations), the overriding cut of clothes being sold worldwide are those that have adopted Western specifications and homogeneity; it is cut that is so crucial in determining the real feel of the clothes. A pencil skirt, for example, can be embellished and printed but due to its shape will always have a certain impact on a womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s posture and gait.

Although the odd Japanese kimono or Peruvian polleras may make guest appearances on the catwalk, it is far more common to see colours and patterns adopted to give a taste of the country and, for most designers who Despite this being the case, Western design wish to bring their heritage into the mix but elements still dominate the collections of still remain relevant in the cut throat fashthose designers who wish to sell to a glob- ion world, this is the option open to them. 54

Zoe Barling photography

Teija FW13

3 Young British Designers You Should Know

Image courtesy of Emilia Wickstead / photography by Grazia from Imaxtree

Article by Kirsti Reid

Emilia Wickstead FW13

Fringe 2012. Teijaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Autumnal collection is structured and full of volume. The Finnish born designer is constantly influenced by her heritage, giving her work a dinstinctive Nordic edge. This latest collection is no exception to her working concept of protection and camouflage. The colour palette is earthy and dusky with a hint of off white to balance it. Classic styles are reworked, combining traditional tailoring techniques with modern draping and construction, to update a look which still manages to remain timeless. Iridescent, metallic finishes on the fabrics gives the collection a new age, futuristic look whilst still being wearable. Silks and chiffons emphasize the soft, feminine silhouettes, contrasting against harsher more masculine fabrics also used, such as leather. The collection is designed to take the wearer from day to night with minimal effort from a choice of peplum dresses under statement coats, gathered high waisted shorts and jackets with oversized collars and lapels.

Emilia Wickstead Teija Eilola Central Saint Martinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s graduate Emilia Wickstead has created a name for her Teija Eilola is a Royal College of Art self originally as a made-to-measure graduate who built a name for herself atelier in 2009. Since 2011 however, when she became a finalist in Fashion she has produced a ready to wear col-

Jenna Mulligan AW13

lection bi-annually. Her AW13 collection contains a range of Prince of Wales check and florals which are key patterns that have transitioned through into Autumn from Summer. The unique colour palette is comprised of earthy tones splashed with teals and pastel pinks. Silhouettes are clean with classic 50s style shin skimming skirts, three-quarter length sleeved dresses, elegant trouser suits and floor length gowns. There is a definite tailored theme to the collection with jacket dresses and shirt collared separates being a heavy feature. Wickstread opts for a varied style of neck line throughout the collection including strapless, buttoned-up collars, deep Vs and roll 60

necks. It is a collection which evokes thoughts of traditional Britain, of royalty and nobility but also of the countryside, horseback riding and afternoon tea. Jenna Rosina Jenna Mulligan womenswear designer under the brand “Jenna Rosina”, graduated from University of Ulster Belfast earlier this year. Her final collection entitled ‘Genuflection’ represents a strong woman, full of femininity and confidence. Mulligan’s influence for the collection is mainly architectural, drawing inspiration from ecclesiastic buildings, both interior and exterior. This representation is de-

Images courtesy of Jenna Mulligan

fined through the structured, pronounced silhouettes and bold choice of colour palette. The colour palette is a combination of cobalt blue, lime green and darker reds and blacks to ground the palette which very much resembles those of stained glass windows, generally found in ecclesiastic construction. The shapes are so-

phisticated and graceful yet angular and commanding, portrayed by broad shoulders, backless dresses and peplum jackets. A mix of one piece outfits and separates with jackets, varying sleeve lengths and high necklines all add to the personality of the woman wearer, an icon of versatility and power. 61

Unleash Your Inner Vixen

By columnist Kelly Millar

Many things can inspire you, including those unique pieces that live in your wardrobe or drawer that make you feel defined; when you wear it, you feel your inner goddess leap with exhilaration! Every bit of your being just knows, it’s so you.

style, I believe there are moments when every woman wants to feel a little outlandish, creative, worldly or even slightly exotic. It is our feminine nature after all. Many women I’ve worked with over the years expressed something similar, that is wishing they could show their uniqueness through their style and the clothes that they wear. The problem is not knowing how to pull it all together so that it works. Left to their own devices and busy lives they often end up opting out.

All of us ladies like to feel unique, and what better way to express our personalities and individualism than through what we wear. It’s much easier to do biker-chic when you’re in your 20’s and are finding yourself and your own personal style. Somehow, if you blunder or look a little severe, no one will hold it against you. The first thing that communicates who But how to pull off edgy when you’re in you are visually is your wardrobe. Howevyour 30’s and 40’s and it still feel like you? er, you don’t have to 'scream' to be heard. Although creating an edgy look doesn’t I’m a big believer that fashion should be mean all black, one of my all time favourfun, always. There are many different occa- ite looks and notorious signature styles is sions and aspects of your life that you need wearing subtle, understated tone-on-tone to dress for, and it can be a daunting task to colours such as aubergine, slate green, find the perfect balance of looking appro- pearl grey, champagne and mocha etc. (of priate and feeling authentic in your style. which there is a plethora this autumn). Regardless of your day to day personal Using subtle, tone-on-tone layering cre62

ates a look of indisputable cool sophistication. The key is how you combine them. You can create interest by combining textures, patterns or unexpected accessories. Having style is not about perfection, in fact I believe that is a thing of the past. We are more and more moving towards embracing our true selves with all of our uniqueness and eccentricities. You can blend styles to find your 'voice.' Designers are combining all sorts of styles from a variety of eras, and the fantastic thing is, it’s all available now! Just look at hemlines, or trouser styles. We have just about every length and width available to us this season, which can flatter every body shape. If you want to add an edge to your look that speaks volumes and gives off a certain attitude and punch, you can do so beautifully with just the right, key pieces or accessories. Remember, contrast always draws the eye. Combine mid-range with designer and use fabric and textures to express your personality. Throw on a favourite winning piece or seasonal trend, but bring it to life with a 'touch of edgy.' It keeps your look current, fun and balances refined, more sophisticated attire. That’s the key to approaching getting dressed for any occasion.

The epitome of edgy is looking street chic. This is where you’ll find that your intuition and a little guidance goes a long way! Think 'unexpected pairings:' It’s about enhancing your style with some bold, slightly tough accessories whilst maintaining glamour and elegance. Pair sophistication with street chic. Combine studded accessories with a feminine ensemble, or a leather biker jacket over a fitted, casual dress and fabulous, bold ankle boots with zips. It’s not about shocking, but making a statement. Some of my absolute must have accessories that will add edgy chic to any outfit this autumn are as follows: Roberto Cavalli earrings, Burberry studded clutch, Dior watch, Versace bracelet, Gucci earrings, Alexander McQueen Biker Jacket, Chloe earrings, Diane von Furstenberg clutch, Givenchy earrings, Chloe bracelet You can retain the essence of your personal style and simply add one or two eye-catching details to create a striking look. Draw upon your own tastes to channel your inner rebel and most importantly, do it your way. So go ahead, be brave and express your 'inner edgy!' 63

Contemporary Japanese Designers By Madeleine Spencer The Second World War was a harbinger of change for Japanese fashion. Prior to Japanese officers in the army and navy adopting the Western clothing they had seen on English marines stationed at Yokohama, traditional clothes were not only the norm, but were considered to be the only decent option. For women, this consisted of a Kimono in public and potentially a more casual Yukata at home; men wore a Haori loose knee-length coat with wide-legged Hakama.

It would take the dawning of another era with an effect as monumental to Japan as the Second World War to bring about a second change in fashion – the technological boom. Japan being an economic powerhouse in the 1980s had an enormous impact on culture and the fashion subculture – namely, street style. It was this style that fuelled that Japanese fashion revolution and brought designers Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto to the fore. Their avant-garde designs struck a Once officers started wearing the new style, cord with the Japanese youth and resonathowever, the donning of western style dress ed worldwide – these were the first two (suits in particular) increased in populari- Japanese designers to be lauded globally. ty, soon becoming common amongst businessmen, teachers and university lecturers More recently, Japanese street style – though, at home, traditional attire re- has evolved into a mix of voluminous, mained very much the accepted standard. high-fashion pieces mixed with grunge, 66

Images courtesy of Takashi Nishiyama & Yasutoshi

punk and chintzy details often inspired by pop culture and the arts. These individual aesthetics have carved out niches with a huge number of followers that has, in turn, promoted the work of home grown designers who invariably fuse tradition and modernity. The movement has also been compounded by the cotton-planting initiative providing more Japanese sources for fabric following Tsunamis that have rendered soil too saline for rice to grow (an initiative that has been especially successful in Tohoku following 2011’s Tsunami and has recently been implemented in Hannan, Osaka). Street style draws heavily from the crossover between technology and the arts – Anime animations and Manga drawings have had noteworthy impacts on fashion. It is therefore fitting that Japanese designer Yasutoshi Ezumi bridges subversive fashion with haute couture – he produced an entire collection for AW13

on Anime, incorporating swathes of layered and belted fabrics that produce simultaneously clean and inventive silhouettes that are so synonymous with modern Japanese style. Other previous collections have also demonstrated this bold aesthetic that plays with contrast: in Ezumi’s Rectangle collection he showed a series of monochromatic, texturally impressive pieces. In his Line collection the fabrics are flowing with an emphasis on the simple cut; the String Theory collection is layered, multifaceted and embellished and his Square and Body collection is a triumph of conflicting proportions coupled with intense flashes of colour. Given Ezumi’s brand mission to merge aesthetics found in society and phenomenon, it is unsurprising that the focus throughout Ezumi’s designs is on re-imagining cuts and fabrics to this powerful effect. 67

西山

Similarly, 23-yearold Takashi Nishiyama has drawn inspiration from societal and technological influences in his designs. Nishiyama won the 2010 ITS competition (no mean feat – amongst the judges were Viktor & Rolf and John Galliano) for his ‘Monster Hunter’ collection in which he represented what he considers to be contemporary Japanese pop culture in an international competition. The designs were based on both the hugely popular Japanese television-based computer game (in which players hunt monsters to collect weapons), and the commuters on public transport who enjoy playing games on a train – the end result is a fusion of formal with something akin to a blurred reality. On the one hand, there are echoes of kimonos and origami in formal, layered fabrics. The clothes are floor-length, monochromatic and modest in terms of the amount of flesh displayed. On the other hand, there are leather head piec70

es, either worn so low as to obstruct vision (an effect furthered by hair being combed over models’ foreheads) or constructed so as to invoke ideas of weaponry and armoury. There is also an element of deconstruction – pieces are torn, revealing panels of black under white and models are drowned in fabrics and the aforementioned sections of hair swathed to conceal identity. This fusion of traditional and non-traditional is now deeply embedded in the design culture of Japan and the aesthetic produced is unique – both elaborately constructed and slightly pulled apart, practical and restrictive, heavily detailed and monochromatic. Designers who hail from Japan are bound by the history of design and empowered by it – in very few places are so many elements at play and subcultures competing for sartorial representation.

Style

Rebels &

Green Heroes

Images courtesy of Star Works Group

Article by Moira Valenti

The long time darling of the British fashion industry, Dame Vivienne Westwood stands fairly and squarely at the increasingly important ethical wing of the industry; Westwood's gone from cultural to climate revolutionary in the dramatic sweep of her lifetime - anarchist to 'ecologist.' As the acknowledged epi-centre of the creative capital of punk styling, Maclaren and Westwood's vision has returned as the punk genre with a new elegant twist; rebel chic. 1970's unconventional is now a 'statement' expression of 2013 mainstream fashion. This season's narrative for Westwood's collection comes across as the dandy in a mixture of guises, from wearing hounds tooth and checks to over-sized hoodies and stylised tracksuit bottoms. The layering theme remains alive and well, drop-crotch pants

provide extra swagger with some pant hems suitably halfmast. Eyelet studded belts enhanced the effect. Accessories took the form of gothic jewellery with facial scars and blemishes signifying the rogue; the 'outlaw' persona with the Westwood pencilled-on 'O' eye patch, 'war' paint to the cheek bones and drawn-on moustache. These affectations reference perfectly iconically the ever-green pirate motif, alongside the strong colour palette insinuating pirate flamboyance. The gestures of the models: the 'V' sign, spitting on the runway all signifying that anarchy lives on! Colours this fall range from black, startling red, blues through to yellow, with large-print check turning up the volume. Westwood showcases the coat, back in all its tailored glory and tails were everywhere, from morning jacket to Mackintosh, front tail even made a debut; whether single or 73

double, on cardigans, coats and jackets. The tail added a swish of derring-do and raffish elegance. An over-sized 'hoody' and stylised 'trackie’ bottoms completed the non-conformist look. With a nod to ecology, natural fibre and Leopard print woollens rubbed shoulders with patch-pocket tops, some with patent leather-look sleeve 74

appliqué detail. The rising ethical side was signposted in slogans on T-shirts and leggings - the message, “climate change.” There is a change of climate between the fashion rebellion of old and the rebel chic of today; whatever the philosophy behind the creation, one thing remains, distinctive and edgy style which speaks to each generation.

LOVES Menswear Kenzo padded leather jacket £1100.51

Linda Farrow Luxe round frame sunglasses £710.29

Gareth Pugh Draped Cotton-wool Sweater £509.08

Versace medusa belt £315.68

Gareth Pugh Draped Cotton-wool Sweater £509.08

Gucci leather front jacket £1841.49

Balmain skinny lambskin trouser £1322.37

Lanvin velcro gloves £210.46

Mr. Hare 'Scarpa' boot £440

Image courtesy of Aaron Carlo

Aaron Carlo

Celebrity Hairdresser

This month we had the honour of catching up with celebrity stylist and former model, the incredibly handsome Aaron Carlo. Carlo who is currently Art Director of Headmasters Pro Artistic Team, has worked with some of Britain’s most highly acclaimed artists, including the legendary Spice Girls. Having already reached great heights in his career at such an early age, his talent, drive and keen eye for trends paired with an envi-

able ability to translate these looks flawlessly on to any woman, has earned him great recognition throughout the industry. Saint Laurent, GHD, MAC and L’Oreal are but a few of the brands Aaron has worked with unsurprising when considering Carlo’s creative abilities and can-do attitude. Today we bring you an interview which touches upon trends, the absolute must-have hair products and of course, celebrities! 79

â&#x20AC;&#x153;If you have medium to fine hair, a good clip-in weft is essential to add volume...â&#x20AC;?

Image credit: Headmasters

â&#x20AC;&#x153;A good nourish-

Image credit: Headmasters

ing serum is an absolute must... my favourite is Kerastase Elixir Ultime...â&#x20AC;?

You began your career as a model, it's clear must for women who want to look after their to see why, but how did you transition hair; my favourite is Kerastase Elixir Ultime, into becomas it is very ing a stylist? moisturising but not I enjoyed too heavy. modelling A good dry but really felt shampoo is a the need to handbag eshave some sential – it’s sort of crefantastic for ative outlet, when you’re so I trained on the go and as a hair stylist and joined the Headmasters team. I was lucky enough to have some good contacts from modelling, which helped me build my client base and land hair jobs in music and fashion as well as in the salon. At the time it felt like it took forever to be able to go free- need to freshen your lance, but in reality I have actually only style up or add some been doing this job for a few years. volume. I use Headmasters’ Big Glam What 5 products should every Hair Volumising Dry woman be using? Shampoo, £2.99, as My absolute top product as a stylist is it is very light and L’Oreal Professionnel tecni.art Pli. It is leaves no residue. a hugely versatile product for weight- If you have mediless hold – it can be used on wet or dry um to fine hair, a hair, on roots for volume or ends for curl. good clip-in weft is A good nourishing serum is an absolute essential to add vol82

ume – I would advise having them professionally cut and coloured to match your own hair, so there is no obvious difference. A lightweight hairspray is key to maintaining your style – you can use different strengths depending on how much hold you need, and top up throughout the day to minimise flyaways. When it comes to selecting a new hair style, what are your tips for women wanting a drastic change when it comes to colour and also the cut? Doing your research is really important – find lots of images of styles you like, as well as styles you don’t like. This will make it really easy to communicate with your stylist and give them a clear idea of what you’re trying to achieve. Also, listening to your stylist is important – they will be able to give you expert advice on what will and won’t work for your particular hair type. At the moment we're loving edgy, short cuts – which face shapes do they most flatter and for those who it may not work so

well for what would you recommend instead? Not everyone can pull off short hair, particularly if they are high fashion, edgy cuts. Your whole image needs to work with your hair, so unless you dress with an edge then the style may look out of place. Short cuts look amazing particularly on oval face shapes with delicate features, but cuts can be adjusted to work with different face shapes and accentuate different features – for example, if you have a long face shape, having a longer fringe can look great. As a stylist what can you simply not live without? I have a lot of things I can’t live without which come with me in my kit bag wherever I go – I definitely don’t travel light. If I had to choose, I would say my postiche brush for tweaking hair, straighteners, hairdryer and definitely my iPad because I am always doing research and looking at the latest trends. You sometimes travel abroad with clients and have recently been in Tokyo. How was the trip with Little Mix and do your travels abroad inspire your future work – if so in what way? Tokyo was incredible and I felt so comfortable there – it’s such a vibrant city and I love their sense of style, which rivals London for being so eclectic! I am often working so don’t always get to experience the tourist side of cities I visit, but I love getting the insiders’ view of different cultures. I recently visited Los Angeles and was blown away by their don’t-care attitude to style – it was individual and cool, and no one was affected by anyone else’s opinion. Working with young pop acts has definitely inspired me in my own work as they are so fresh and on-trend. 83

‘Little Mix and I work well together because it’s a real collaboration’

Image credit: Headmasters

You're obviously very close to Little Mix, do which inspires me in my work. Also, being they generally request certain styles or are they nominated for Creative Head’s It List Fashquite experimental when it comes to their hair? ionista was amazing – it’s a sought-after award and I am very proud to have been nominated. I love working with the girls, and I’m very Working with the Spice Girls was an absolute lucky because they are really highlight for me as I have been open to and love trying new a fan of them since I was little! things – some acts are the opposite. Little Mix and I work Finally, are you currently workwell together because it’s a ing on any exciting projects? real collaboration; I’ll come If so please share a little bit up with new ideas or trends with our readers in terms that I’d like to try, and the of what we can expect. girls have an amazing sense of style so will come to me as well with new ideas or someWe have just shot the new thing they have seen which they want to try. Headmasters Collection 2014 – it’s look ing incredible and I am so excited to see everyone’s reaction when it is unveiled next You've also worked with the Saturdays and year. I also have lots of exciting plans with many other celebrities, but what have been Little Mix; their new album will be coming the major highlights of your career thus far? out so that is definitely one to watch. Session styling is my passion, and I have fashI have been incredibly lucky in my career so ion and beauty shoots scheduled in between far, and the travelling has been fantastic – I my other commitments – it’s been a busy love getting to experience different cultures, year and looks set to be the same in 2014!

Beauty

Fashion Style

aaroncarlo.com 85

Celebrity Stylist

On Recent

Punk please

The punk look never seems to go out of fash- are great for showcasing your best side ion and this year it was back with a vengeance! and are perfect for creating an edgy look. To be a beautiful misfit with plenty of attitude experiment with a deep side parting, keeping the hair worn flat at the roots area, curl hair from the mid length to ends and slightly back brush for a really effortless undone look. Deep side partings 86

If you fancy an updo hair style you could try a cool textured Mohawk - very on trend at the moment and fairly easy to create. For those wth longer locks , faux mohawks look fabulous and you can always mix it up by using different tones.

Columnist, Vicki Lord

t Trends

Masculine and bold

Slicked back

Many designers have embraced a more masculine, androgynous style this season. This is an impressively empowering and strong look which is not always easy to pull off. I would suggest keeping the hair sleek but giving it a slightly feminine finish with a pony tail either high at the crown of the head or if this is too daring for you try having a pony tail to the side to soften the look.

Devout attention to hair is the key to sporting this incredibly striking look that will leave you looking like a Madonna. For this â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;angelicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; trend try a strong middle parting and letting your hair fall loosely down your back. Slick down the root area using gel before applying a high gloss spray all over crown area to really reflect the light, creating a true halo of shine. 87

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The trend this year is a move away from the more heavily sculpted hair styles to more tousled, textured tresses.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Image courtesy of Diane Von Furstenberg

Image courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Calmly Curled

trend. I would highly recommend a good gel, shine spray and hairspray such as BumThe catwalks at London Fashion Week ble and Bumble Bb Gel and Bumble and were awash with plenty of playfully Bumble Shine On for all these looks. To finpink pieces in this year’s AW 13 collec- ish and set, opt for L’Oreal Elnett hairspray. tions as seen at Diane Von Furstenberg, To find out more about Vicki Lord visit Mulberry and Eudon Choi. The models vickilord.co.uk looked graceful and ultra feminine with this wonderfully soft and natural style. The trend this year is a move away from the more heavily sculpted hair styles to more tousled, textured tresses. The best hair styles to suit this look would be to have your hair naturally loose and softly curled. Once you have curled your hair softly with tongs try spraying a dry shampoo such as Bumble & Bumble on the root area to absorb the extra grease then slightly back comb to create a soft flyaway undone wave. I recommend Aveda Pure-Abundance-Volumizing-Hair-Spray to finish the look and make sure it stays perfect throughout the day.

Femme Fatale It seems Velvet Underground’s classic song Femme Fatal was ringing in the ears of designers at London Fashion Week as seductive looking models strutted down the catwalk with hair styles that simply screamed sex appeal, for designers such as Marc Jacobs & Louis Vuitton. This superb look gives a very alluring air of stunning temptress. This is such a dramatic look and very daring, perfect really to chase away summer blues. Dark glossy bobs will look amazing with this vampy trend, although if you don’t fancy having the chop and want to keep your luscious locks try out the faux bob to give the illusion of a strong dramatic jaw length bob. If you’d prefer an up do style try a slick bun with high shine for a stunning and demure look which totally compliments this foxy 89

Stylist Valentina Tiurbini, hairstylist Andrea Martinelli, photographer Gabor Szantai, make-up artist Zannie Vong, stylist assistant Lara Tutton

Leather jacket, Jezebel grey Pritch London, Dress, Lillian Mayro, Shoes, Karen K

Model wears: dress, Eva Letova, socks, Wolford, Gloves, Burberry, Boots, Karen K

Model wears: Voltage leather jacket, Pritch London, Hot pants, Prada, Hat, Borsalino, tights, wolford, Boots, Karen K

Leather jacket, Studded Eagle Pritch London, Hat, Alexandra Harper

50% Off At AEOS During October

On All Products With Code:

BritishMODE The above code expires at the beginning of November. The discount is available on all online purchases via the official AEOS website, accessible via www.aeos.net. The code may be used more than once on seperate occasions, but can only be used once perindividual payment.

Giveaway

Win All The Following Prizes By Entering Online: http://is.gd/tfVJMP All prizes are from Artdecoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest collection and will be shipped directly from the company.

Perfect Colour Lipstick Art Couture Mascara

Nail Lacquer

Magnetic Beauty Box & Shadows

Inside Our Beauty Editor’s Makeup Bag

Tom Ford Lipstick in Vanilla Suede £36.00

With the focus being on creating a beautiful smokey eye, Tom Ford’s lipstick in Vanilla Suede will give me the ideal contrast in a sensuous nude lip. Its subtle colour enhances the shape of my lips while helping to define my punk-inspired look. Perfect for day or night, a nude pout gives any look a contemporary edge and never goes out of style.

Chantecaille Aromacologie Biodynamic Lifting Mask £135.00 Whilst I love fashion week and the excitement it brings, it can take a toll on my skin. For an infusion of vitamins, nutrients and moisture I turn to my Chantecaille Aromacologie Biodynamic Lifting Mask. Not only is my skin hydrated and more youthful in the morning, but this formulation is also perfect for recycled plane air and anti-aging!

Burberry Beauty Lip Definer in Nude Beige £16.00 The perfect compliment to any nude pout, ensuring my lipstick lasts all day. With its smooth formulation, my lips feel silky and soft.

Micropolish Face Rejuvenator £15.00 For an added touch of luxury, Beauty Lab’s Microdermabrasion Polish is never out of reach. The hypoallergenic formulation contains quartz and gold dust to polish the skin, while the glyco-peel renews the skin cells for a perfect glow. I use this once or twice a week to rejuvenate my complexion.

Giorgio Armani Eyes To Kill Quad Eyeshadow Palette £49.50 In trying to attain the perfect sultry smokey eye, I was thrilled to discover Giorgio Armani’s Eyes to Kill Quad Palette. The palette is a harmonious blend of the richness of the rocks, earth, sea and vegetation. Available in a variety of combinations, its colours are found in the rugged beauty of the Italian coast. I am confident that everyone will be able to find their ideal something.

Dolce & Gabbana Secret Eyes Mascara 23.50 Blank Canvas Cosmetics F16 Contour Brush £15.18 This season I am loving a flawless complexion with a perfect nude pout, highend punk-inspired smokey eyes and contoured cheekbones. To accomplish this I keep my Blank Canvas Cosmetics F16 Contour Brush close at hand. Made for powder applications, it is a multi-purpose brush which I can use on my cheeks, face and neck. It is the ideal tool for sculpting the perfect cheekbones.

The piece de resistance for a smokey eye are extra long and defined lashes. Dolce & Gabbana’s Secret mascara is the latest formulation in technological luxury. The fibres encapsulate Gold Pearls which give lashes their length and the intelligent brush ensures that you reach every hair. 99

This Season’s

Hottest Lip Trends Nars Heat Wave £18.50

MAC Fixed on Drama £15.00

Merlot This season we’re leaving our glosses at home in favour of rich, matte colours. Warm plums shades and deep burgundy contrast beautifully against the perfectly smooth canvass of your skin. These new shades are an invigorating representation of the bold colours which welcome fall. They create a look that is feminine, fierce and powerful.

100

Brick A bright red lipstick is timeless, but every once in a while we need a change. Echoing the rusts, coppers and bricks of this season’s colour trends, why not try a rich brick shade? A warmer and more contemporary hue than its red counterpart, it tends to be more flattering on most skin tones.

Dior Rouge in Angelique Beige £25.00 Nude You have decided to take the plunge and wear this season’s wet smokey eye. Your eyes are the windows to your soul and with such an intense look, every gaze will be on you. The question is what to pair it with? We never recommend a bold eye and a strong lip, so this is a perfect excuse to reach for a matte nude lipstick. Look for a beige nude that is one shade lighter than you lip colour to create subtle contrast and define the shape of your mouth.

Dior Addict Extreme Bonne Aventure £24.00 Wet Look If you are looking for a glamorous, high fashion lipstick, look no further than Dior. try a metallic shade on your lips. Although we love a dramatic smokey eye, this is another great way to draw attention to yourself and your lovely pout by adding shine and dimension. 101

Na Te

102

ano ech Me Article by Caroline Topperman

There is a silent revolution altering the beauty landscape on a global scale. Cosmetics companies are diving head first into the world of nanotechnology and opening new avenues to bring us the best possible formulations in skin care. Improved creams containing nano-particles are hitting store shelves with chemical compositions which were impossible to achieve even a decade or two ago. These skin care lines are not the same re-packaged formulations; they introduce a previously untapped way of delivering active ingredients with the ability to penetrate into the skin. Nanotechnology can now be found in an abundance of cosmetics such as: moisturisers, makeup, hair care and sunscreens. Billions of dollars are spent on anti-ageing research as scientists strive to develop new ways to help us stay younger for longer. As a result, cosmetic companies have been working on developing more advanced ways of achieving this goal and nanotechnology allows for previously unattainable results. In order to be classified as nanotechnology, a particle or nano-particle, has to be no larger than one ten-millionth of a meter in size, or in other words, no bigger than 100nm. These nano-particles have been used to improve the solubility of ingredients, add a touch of shimmer to

creams or deliver all natural, healthy components directly to the dermis. In the past cosmetic companies used liposomes and niosomes as the delivery vehicles, however, nano-particles and nano-structured lipid carriers have been found to be far superior. What does all this technological speak mean for the consumer? In short, nano-structured lipid carriers are the vehicles which bring the ingredients below the surface of the skin, to the dermis, whilst keeping their molecular structures intact. Skin, the bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest organ, is designed to be a defensive barrier against pathogens, toxins and viruses - many of the ingredients found in skin care lines are in fact too large to penetrate this â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;barrierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. The idea is that the smaller the particle size of the active ingredient, the easier it will be absorbed by the skin. Visualize a small capsule within which the active ingredients are stored and delivered into the skin. Enhanced levels of skin hydration and increased levels of antioxidants are just a few of the many benefits that are possible. To understand how nanotechnology can help two compounds mix, it is best to picture the effects of oil and vinegar mixed for a salad dressing. Both liquids co-exist with the oil suspended in the vinegar. In nano emul103

sions, one ingredient will remain intact within another, but each droplet is nano-sized. This creates a smooth, uniform solution which can be evenly applied on the skin. As with any new and developing technology, there are always many questions which need to be answered and concerns relating to potential health risks. The dermis is

104

comprised of a network of capillaries which could potentially absorb the nano-particles and carry them through the bloodstream. One specific concern is related to titanium dioxide which is frequently used in sunscreens. Whilst it is an effective ingredient, in its normal formulation it leaves behind a chalky residue. With the use of nano-technology, the chalky residue disappears and the product becomes t ranslucent. The concern is that the titanium dioxide, when nano sized, could react to sunlight and produce free radicals which would damage skin tissue. Although it is important to understand new technologies it is just as important to remember that their safety is constantly under review by regulatory bodies. With the recent arrivals of BB and CC creams straight from Asian markets, it is worth taking a look at their contribu-

tion

the

world

skin

care. only are they unhealthy for your skin but they also create pre-mature ageing. Thanks When looking to nourish the skin and create to nanotechnology, these ingredients can a flawlessly smooth canvass, countries like be delivered more effectively into the skin, South Korea and Japan are at the forefront where they can have the maximum effect. of the skin care world. Known for its inno- AmorePacific, a South Korean company vative technologies, South Korea has been which is quickly gaining ground, has over talked about in die-hard beauty circles for 140 global patents in green tea and skin over a decade now. What we now know as a related technology. Over 5,000 years ago, BB Cream, or a blemish balm, was originally green tea, bamboo and red ginseng were created by Dr. Christine Schrammek, a Ger- commonly used because of their health benman dermatologist, to protect her patient’s efits. Today, AmorePacific combines these skin following surgery. In 1985, ‘Nano Gold Ener- centuries old traditional Asian this cream was introduced into botanicals with modern techgising Face Cream the South Korean and Japanese nology to bring unique skin skin care markets where it be- binds particles of care products to the market. came the prized cream of South Currently, it is the only cosgold to silk Korean actresses who highly metics company to cultivate its microfibres. ’ value flawless porcelain skin. own green tea, harvested from Scientists then took the BB cream and rein- the volcanic mineral rich soil of JeJu Island. vented it by adding skin whitening proper- Although Asia remains at the forefront of ties as well as varying shades which, when these technologies other cosmetics comoxidized, match a user’s skin tone. Follow- panies are adopting the same ingredients. ing this refinement, CC or colour corrective Chantecaille, for instance, has an energizcreams came about. Developed to be the ing face cream in its collection. Nano Gold older sister to the BB creams, they contain Energising Face Cream binds particles a larger number of nourishing ingredients of gold to silk microfibres. Silk is a natuand a greater ability to even the complexion ral protein which is highly moisturising by reducing redness. They often also pro- as well as being an antioxidant and an anvide sun protection, have anti-ageing prop- ti-inflammatory. Gold also has high anerties and provide higher levels of hydration. ti-inflammatory properties as well as being Like all modern cosmetics, they take advan- anti-bacterial and a detoxifier. This is an tage of nanotechnology. For example, Am- ideal combination of ingredients to bring arte uses nanotechnology extensively in its intensive healing properties to the dermis. creams, to give them an incomparable look and feel, as well as to accelerate skin renewal. The race to develop optimal skin care formulations which take full advantage of Asian cosmetic companies are now gaining potent ingredients continues. Cosmetics ground in the Western world and essentially companies are spending billions of dolattempting to eliminate the use of synthetic lars each year, striving to help us eliminate ingredients, replacing them with all natural skin conditions and grant us the fountain of pure botanicals. Many synthetic ingredients youth. Whilst technology advances and naclog pores and cause skin care problems notechnology makes strides throughout all by creating a barrier on the surface of the industries, we are sure to see amazing new skin thus blocking its ability to breathe. Not products which we can only dream of today. 105

Breakthrough Breast Cancer

This month we are delighted to be associated with Breakthrough Breast Cancer Text SIGNS to 70500 for your free handy TLC guide today!

1,000 women a month die of breast cancer in the UK 50,000 women a year are diagnosed with the disease

Join the first Great Pink Bake Off!

Friday 18th October (or anytime during October) gather your friends, family, colleagues and share your baked goods in exchange for a donation.

Purchase an exclusive product from leading brands such as:

Avon ghd M&S

108 Breakthrough Breast Cancer will benefit and

Sign up today to help save lives â&#x20AC;&#x201C; visit pinkbakeoff.org or call 08080 100 200 For more information go to the website: www.breakthrough.org.

Most women don’t check themselves regularly because:

Philanthropy

They are unsure of how to self examine They are unsure what they are looking for They forget to check themselves regularly A 49 year old woman experienced thickening and pain and was quietly worried. The G.P. Missed the importance of the symptoms. Hearing the charities radio campaign she texted for a guide and went on to be treated for four lumps.

TLC, Touch, Look, Check Touch your breasts. Can you feel anything unusual? Look for changes. Is there any change in shape or texture? Check anything unusual with your doctor.

look out for: 1. Thickening of the skin 2. Change in the shape of the breast 3. Pain in the breast

Breast cancer can affect anyone: The charity funds 25% of the UK’s breast cancer research: At their own research centre At Kings College Hospital, London At The University of Manchester The focus is on prevention, detection, diagnosis and treatment

One of Breakthrough’s own staff scientists was affected by the devastating disease when she was 31 and 12 years later again. She knows just as well as anyone, how important their work is.

109

Renowned Designer Vogue & Working 110

Kevin Freeman On With Celebrities Interview by Gabriella Enriocco Editor-in-Chief

111

112

Photographer: Barry Jeffery Stylist: Kate Jeffery Hair: Craig Chapman

Gabriella: During the 80's you ran a made to measure bridal wear company in North London, named Diva Bridal wear. One would imagine that Renaissance Couture has a distinctly different clientèle and tone; yet in both instances you cater to women who want to make a statement, and are rather drawn to the high octane gowns which you so expertly create. Are there any parallels between your original business and Renaissance couture? Were the gowns you created at Diva Bridal wear also very theatrical?

I had two commercial breakthroughs with Diva, the first being the production of a bridal gown with a black bodice (which was unheard of at the time) and the second was the production of a very simple backless crepe gown that was a direct contrast to the mass market ‘meringues’ that were popular in the 80’s. This simple crepe gown received more orders than anything else I made and it was this that prompted me to go and work for other designers to find out whether I should start thinking about mass production.

Kevin: I was very lucky with Diva in that the first sample I produced was used for an editorial in Brides magazine which gave the business a massive boost. Diva was a much more low key affair centred largely around North London and the Midlands with a much smaller client catchment area. I was new to the bridal market and very much learning about the business and of course, didn’t have the benefits of social networking sites to promote it as a global brand. I concentrated much more on bridal fairs; Clothes Show Live, National Wedding Shows etc to promote the business and worked out of a small studio in my home without any high street presence and limited press. The gowns were much more ‘theatrical’ in the sense that I hadn’t yet developed terribly sophisticated design sensibilities and didn’t fully grasp the notion of holding back (some people would say I still don’t!). I think at that time my intention was to offer something completely different to the mainstream, whereas now it is not my sole intention to do that - my intention now is to create beautiful, avant garde pieces that demonstrate a strong and unusual design aesthetic.

Gabriella: Could you describe the transition period where you worked as an assistant designer to both Catherine Rayner and Angela Stone? Kevin: At the time,

‘my intention now is to Catherine Rayner a hero of mine create beautiful, avant was in terms of bridal and cut - she garde pieces that demon- design had won Bridal Deof the Year strate a strong and un- signer several years in suc– probably usual design aesthetic.’ cession the 80's equivalent

of Ian Stuart. I knew I needed to learn more about the business of bridal manufacture and answered a small ad for an Assistant Designer to a bridal company in the back of the Evening Standard… it turned out to be for Catherine Rayner. I worked in her Chelsea studios for a while, concentrating on grading patterns for her MM (Made to Measure) Gold Label clients and assisting on the production of a new collection. All the gowns were cut in the studios and sent to outworkers for production, returned and sent to the retailer who had ordered them. She had a large Chinese clientele and it was interesting to see how the British designs were reinterpreted for a Chinese market in terms of proportion, balance and shape 113

but still with the same names as the British equivalents. The studio was frantic and not a terribly friendly place and I left to work further down the Kings Road at Angela Stone’s boutique. Angela differed in approach in that she had a boutique where clients would come and meet the designer, place an order and the gowns would be made in the basement workroom of the shop. I much preferred this environment because although Catherine offered a ‘semi-couture’ service she never met the client whereas Angela did. The most useful information I took away from both of these designers was how to cost gowns and I learnt quickly to value my own couture pieces. Gabriella: On your website you mention that you can in fact source “unusual” materials from specialist suppliers. To date, what has been the most unique and perhaps challenging gown you've had to create? Kevin: Every dress is a challenge because it doesn’t exist before I meet the client. I don’t repeat designs or re-use patterns so everything offers a new batch of problems to solve which is the bit of my job that I love. I have received commissions over the years that have seen me dying silk using boiled onion skins, hand painting metres of silk organza with a big emulsion paint brush, burning things, shredding and fraying things and using combinations of fabrics that shouldn’t work. For one bride who wanted a red and silver gown I found the most exquisite double woven ivory silk organza embedded with real silver threads which was flown in from Italy. It was extremely expensive and I had to dye it in a big bucket from B&Q… I had a slightly sweaty head that day. Something that was extremely exciting was being asked to recreate the iconic gold lame sunray gown designed by William Travilla for Marilyn Monroe. I was lucky enough to have the original gown in the studio for a couple of 114

hours to see how it was constructed and then worked with a hand pleating company to produce the fabric before producing my version. My next challenge is to create a gown from cork! Gabriella: “We are often asked to produce the impossible, we really believe that nothing is impossible - everything is a new adventure and every client is a new beginning!” Although each creation in many respects begins with a blank canvass, do you have a muse or particular designer who inspires you, regardless of the project? Kevin: When I am working with a client, then that client is my muse. I have to get to know a client very quickly to ensure she feels secure in the made to measure process and that she feels confident enough to feel she has an input into her gown. It is essential that the client feels the gown is being developed with her rather than the process being something that happens to her. Everyone has bits they want to enhance, hide, corset, pad or disappear and this process allows that. The best thing that friends of my clients say about my work is that they couldn’t imagine what the bride would wear but when they saw it was perfect. When I am developing a collection then my muse is my friend and model Simone Piper. Simone has done runway for me and has appeared in many of my shoots (including Vogue Italia, several covers and an incredible Chris Bulezuik shoot). As well as being exquisitely beautiful – she has the jawline of Audrey Hepburn and can photograph like a 50's Dior model or an aggressive punk - she also brings a quiet intelligence to my work which I love. When she puts on a gown, it is almost as though the gown breathes and comes to life. She works ridiculously hard in the most taxing situations to get ‘the shot’ and has been through a myriad of styling concepts which she carries off

Photography: David Levine Model: Simone Piper Hair: Simon Webster Makeup: Lucille DeeAccessories: Rosie Fox Assisted by Anna Lena Fockeler and Philip Warford

beautifully since we began working together. With regard to designers that influence me, the constants are the great couturiers: Dior, Balenciaga, Lacroix, Galliano and Gaultier. Every season something new inspires and excites depending upon the design sensibilities of the designer. I adore Ellie Saab and Marchesa and Sarah Burton for McQueen is extraordinary! Gabriella: Your work has been published in Vogue Italia as part of the 'Abandon Fashion Series'. What was it like working with world renowned photographer Luke Woodford, and did you all share the same vision for the photoshoot? Kevin: I first met Luke just after he had completed his street people series and wanted to branch into fashion photography. We met through a fashion networking site and have since become good mates. The first shoot took place on a freezing, rainy November day on Brighton beach by the old pier. The model, Micky Sasse was extraordinary; whilst the hair stylist and I shivered in massive coats on the verge of tears from the cold, Micky posed endlessly on a groyne in a tight fitted fishtail wool suit and skyscraper heels. Luke was relentless and the pictures were phenomenal. I later used the resulting image as the conceptual basis for the gown which was exhibited at Brighton Museum and which Luke photographed for the Vogue Italia shoot.

hard on a crumbling staircase to keep her head still whilst manipulating the full skirts of the gown. The resulting shot reminded me of the Three Graces and of a fairy story about Twelve Dancing Princesses and was selected to be exhibited in Milan as part of their Top One Hundred Fashion Photographs of the year – an amazing accolade for the whole team. To get a result like this image relies heavily on the creative team understanding each other, everything came together that day – hair, makeup, styling, model, photographer and designer – I think we knew that something wonderful was happening which is an incredibly exciting feeling.

The concept for the Vogue Italia shoot came initially from an image on my mood wall in the studio. I had a photograph by Tim Walker of a model wearing Ellie Saab which had been montaged in movement to create drama and the suggestion of lightness in the image. I asked Luke if we could try and recreate the movement and drama – he of course jumped at the idea. Luke found the most amazing (abandoned) location which was an old school with fantastic architectural features and damp running down the walls. Simone worked extremely 115

116

Photography: David Levine Model: Simone Piper Hair: Simon Webster Makeup: Lucille DeeAccessories: Rosie Fox Assisted by Anna Lena Fockeler and Philip Warford

Gabriella: Have you ever worked with anyone within the media or public eye? Kevin: I design a lot of gowns for media celebrities and people in the public eye. My gowns tend to be statement pieces and attract attention so therefore attract a media following. I have regular clients who have stage costumes made for them but my favourite commission had to be from 60s icon Sandie Shaw who asked me to make her gowns when she performed for the first time in twenty years at Vintage at Goodwood. Sandie is great fun to work with and absolutely adores clothes. I made her a huge black draped ‘diva dress’ which she said had ‘never made her feel more beautiful’. Gabriella: Of all your creations which is your personal favourite and why? Kevin: It has to be the Vogue Italia dress. The design was based on the coastal landscape around Brighton’s old pier. The bodice was made of layers of silk taffeta, sequinned mesh and silk/lurex organza to emulate sea water pooling in stones on the beach. The cut is strong and contemporary with delicate panelling and top-stitching, creating wonderful shapes around the body. The skirt is made from 190m of circular frills stitched vertically onto a tulle base, fabrics are a combination of silk dupion, silk/lurex mix, silk organza, silk tulle and manmade organza; whilst the frills are burnt and distressed to represent the burnt old pier reflected in the sea water and are then interspersed with crystal and ostrich feathers to add ‘shade’. This gown has been photographed more than any of my others; it has appeared on magazine covers, in music videos and in catwalk shows and went to a great home when it was sold as part of a sample sale a couple of years ago.

Kevin: I’ve always taught and lectured in Fashion Design since I left college, having developed fashion courses, written Foundation degrees and delivered Masterclasses in places as diverse as Tamworth Sports College and The Royal Albert Hall. Teaching reminds me of what I don’t know, challenges my own preconceptions about design and allows me to give back to the future fashion industry. I have just accepted a new role as Head of Fashion at Highbury College in Portsmouth. The college has a strong commitment to their fashion provision and have invested in new equipment, allowed me to re-staff it with industry professionals and we are now in discussion about the delivery of a Higher Education programme from September 2014. I Gabriella: You are going to be holding courswill also be travelling to China at the end of es in Illustration and Pattern Cutting. Could October to help formulate an internationyou kindly share with us a little bit about that? al fashion project with a fashion college in 117

Photography: Luke Woodford Model: Micky Sasse

Guangzhou, which is an amazing opportunity. Highbury realise that fashion education needs to be current and constantly evolving and my industry experience and the development of my own work can co-exist with this delivery to produce a very exciting and directional fashion environment. It is a big and exciting challenge. Gabriella: For anyone wanting to follow in your footsteps what is the best piece of advice you could offer? 118

Kevin: England has a formidable reputation

for Fashion Education and I would seriously recommend that anyone who wishes to undertake a career in fashion goes through University first. The University system is set up to have strong links with industry, can provide sound work experience opportunities both here and abroad and has the status to showcase and promote emerging talent. It is important that students apply for the right course ie the college that feels right for them and offers exactly what they are looking for in terms of course delivery, content and support; talk to current students and

Photography: Luke Woodford Model: Simone Piper

see what they feel rather than applying for a college you have heard of that may now be relying on reputation rather than delivery. I recently lectured at Norwich University of the Arts supporting the first Third Year cohort through their final collections (a new course). I was blown away by the facilities, standards of teaching and the fact that the students maintained a very strong individual identity rather than producing a generic college style. The course centres on excellence in production with a strong focus on couture finishing and tailoring techniques coupled

with sound design sensibility. It's an amazing fashion educational establishment led by educational fashion phenomenon, Sue Chowles. Gabriella: Finally, whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s something less obvious that you would like people to associate with Renaissance Couture? Kevin: I make a mean panto dame costume? I have made washing machines, flying mermaids and totem pole costumes for one of the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best dames Jason Sutton! 119

www.renaissancecouture.co.uk

120

76 Western Rd, Brighton, East Sussex, BN1 2HA

Photography: Chris Bulezuik Model: Simone Piper

121

Dare To Be

Different

This month we are utterly spellbound by Belinda Chorleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Leather Princess & Mary Anne dress

122

123

‘...taken from the corset which I created for Keira Knightly’

124

Photography by Dave Kai-Piper

Leather Princess My Leather Princess dress features a distressed silver leather long body corset with a traditional back laced up fastening and contemporary lines taken from the corset which I created for Keira Knightly, which was worn in the movie Anna Karenina. This definitely sets off the short Alice skirt so beautifully. It is a waspie based tulle skirt which is made from flesh and pistachio coloured taffeta! 125

Mary Anne

The dress is made in a vibrant denim blue changant taffeta with a silhouette not dissimilar to the look that was so popular during the times of Mary Antoinette. Tulle side panniers tied to the inside of the skirt create a shape which is flat at the front and wide at the hips, dramatically enhanceing the small waist. The top is a separate garment with a contemporary twist to the 18th Century vents in the side, allowing the skirt to flair out from the waist. The front is waist-coated and fastens with covered buttons and keyhole button, creating the appearance of a tailored garment. I covered the front corset base to avoid any of the bones showing as I wanted it to be stripped of detail. This wedding dress is aimed at the more adventurous bride who definitely does not follow the pack! Of course this style is available in ivory. 126

Beyond Burlesque +44 (0)20 8340 7729 / +44 (0)7787 505597 mail@beyondburlesque.com beyondburlesque.com

127

y r i S a O S F g n i d d e W

Our voice of the wedding world reveals all the latest goings-on from the aisle of I do! 128

For me, the real drama of any celebration is always in the detail. It’s those tiny moment’s of magic that stand out and take any wedding from fine to fabulous in seconds. And let’s face it, we all want our wedding to make an impact and leave our guests wanting an encore right? In my World, M is for Memorable and that is exactly what your big day should be. Average is just plain offensive! A few cheeky showstoppers never did anyone any harm in my book and this month, I am pretty confident we have some real jaw-droppers on our hands that will guarantee to gobsmack...

Bouquet Bling! To start with, this glitzy mash-up of a crowd pleaser will surely have the magpies swooping overhead?! Yes when it comes to fresh ideas, designer Debbie Carlisle is literally full of them - in the silver, gold and very sparkly variety. Forget flowers, jewels are the next big thing when it comes to walking down the aisle with a bouquet to die for. From Classic Vintage to Glamorous Hollywood styling - DC has something for all tastes and desires. I personally love the fact you can also integrate sentimental items of jewellery or buttons to create a truly personal memory bouquet – the perfect solution for carrying keepsakes from lost loved ones with you on your wedding day. The team can also incorporate something blue into the arrangement, making the jewels as visible or invisible as you like. In-fact you could go the whole hog with something old, something new, something borrowed and something blue! Do all the traditions for good luck in one job lot - perfect. To check out the full gallery of gorgeousness visit the website – www.dcbouquets. co.uk, and drift off into bouquet heaven.

Hey sugar! Sweet treats are made of these and who am I to disagree – as the famous Eurthymics song goes! I am not gonna lie girls, when it comes to a taste tester of the sweet treat variety, I am generally up there and front of the queue! I have a seriously sweet tooth and this month, I had the absolute pleasure of rocking up and delving into the rather delicious World that is London’s Cake and Bake Show. And I have to say ladies, the show certainly did not disappoint. Every time I think I have seen it all from the World of baking, someone comes along and throws a fresh twist on a traditional three-tier or 129

Rosalind Miller. These silhouetted beauties were simply sensational and real boundary pushers in terms of what can be made possible... one creation even had the power to literally light up the space! The running theme across the three cakes displayed was so bang on trend - a true delight to witness. For info on the show and details of the next, please visit www.cakeandbakeshow.co.uk Next month I’ll be bringing you more from the show and introducing the latest craze hitting the World of Weddings... cake sets! Intrigued? I hope so!

Rosalind Miller Cakes; Best Wedding Cake Designer 2012 & 2013rosalindmillercakes.com

whips up a flavour mash-up to die for... as I said, I am serious about cakes! And on that theme, the show highlight for me was the utterly sensational Cakes of the Future exhibition. Over 25 of the UK’s most respected cake maker’s contributed to this glimpse into the future of cake making and trend setting ideas we are likely to see coming through over the next year. We had cakes as spheres that were hung from the ceiling through to a helter-skelter creation I was desperate to dive into! This was more a collection of edible art than a line-up of classic wedding

Graham Wyles photography

Reader SOS

Help George! I am looking for a really fun cakes we are all used to seeing. At the heart wedding venue in the South West of England of the feature was a selection of Oriental in- that is easy to access and none of my guests spired designs by award winning cake maker will ever forget! All aboard for a skylark I

130

Wedding Fairy SOS Exclusive!

say! I am a big lover of all things Nautical, in-fact everyone in the wedding biz is totally loving this look right now. So, on said theme, allow me to introduce Brunel’s SS Great Britain – a super-stunning ship and wedding location I guarantee no-one will ever forget! Without doubt, the World’s first ever luxury liner makes quite a setting for any big

In homage to my running theme this month, I’ve joined up with the lovely people over at PartyParade.co.uk, to bring you a delicious mix of finishing touches and delicate decoration. The whole butterfly accessory thing is still flying high this season

day celebration, I think you will all agree. Say I do on the Promenade deck, take a seat onboard to dine in fine first class style and then kick-off your heels to bust some moves on the dance floor inside the Haywood Saloon. What a day to remember. For more details on visiting the breath-taking magnificence of this ship in general and wedding’s on board visit www.ssgreatbritain.org

and I totes adore the sophisticated simplicity this collection brings to the table. And the best bit is that your wedding fairy has bagged an extra 10% discount off every purchase for you to soak up from now until the end of 2013! That’s extra cash for you to splash on all your lovely savings! All you need to do is pop WEDDING13 in the discount box and you are good to go!

131

to be on-trend with their wedding day makeup, here are Sarah’s top 5 most wearable trends for A/W 2013: 1) LUCIOUS LIPS - this season a big focus on the catwalk was a stronger lip. Just remember if you choose this look, to keep the rest of your makeup natural 2) DEWY SKIN - a great look for making skin look younger, just be sure to choose the right formulation so you don’t end up looking greasy/ too shiny in your photos 3) BAMBI LASHES - most brides love long, glossy lashes - if yours are a little short, use individual lashes to enhance your own 4) SEXY SILVER - silver/ platinum eyes are a big trend, but to avoid your makeup looking dated in years to come, just use a small amount smudged into your contour, rather than all over the eye area

BRIDAL BEAUTY BUZZ ALERT

5) PUTTY TONES - an easy to wear trend which looks great on brides, use the natural tones on your eyes but add a soft pink to the cheeks to avoid looking too washed out

Connect with Sarah for more beauty adShe’s the woman who has styled 1,000 vice via her website – www.sarahbmakeup. brides and created over 16 cover looks for co.uk and on twitter @bridalbeautybuz the award winning Conde-Nast Brides Magazine. Whenever any of my girlfriends are having a full-on lippy, liner or lashes And finally... crisis, I know exactly who to turn to. Oh yes we are in for a treat this month girls, as Make the gig your own! In the words of I exclusively share a few pearls of wisdom Madonna - Express yourself don’t repress and beauty snippets from the day-to-day yourself! The real drama of any big day diary of award winning make-up artist Sa- is created from within. Really think carerah Brock. I had the pleasure of catching fully about your interests and passions as up with the lovely lady herself for a good a couple and build these into your celegossip and chit chat on all things bridal. bration. If you are both mad film buffs And for chic brides-to-be who want and love old-school Hollywood glamour 132

a la Miss Monroe or Lizzie Taylor, why not consider this as an inspiration point to start planning from? It might be that you are hardcore addicted sky-divers, in which case the skyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quite literally the limit! Ok that was extreme, but you get the idea! Be original and inventive at every opportunity, focusing primarily on the things you love and how you can integrate into the wedding. Even by just adding some subtle touches together such as; selecting your favourite flowers for the bouquet or personalising the reception menu can be really effective. Re-creating the menu from your first dinner date is always much fun and makes a fabulous talking point!

Always think about the demographics of your big day and any regional specialities especially on the culinary front. Are there local customs, traditions, or food produce that you can tap into? The best way to really personalise any wedding is to utilise the people and things that surround you on a daily basis. Always think what can we do ourselves or what skills can we tap into via our community of friends and family. Invest time in this strategy from the beginning and I am pretty confident your big day will be one to remember!

TWF X

www.theweddingfairy.tv @weddingfairyuk 133

Model Wears Vintage Styler Lauren headband ÂŁ125.00 www.vintagestyler.co.uk

Lucille Limited Edition Clutch ÂŁ75

10% Off During October Using Code BritMODE

Model Wears Martine Wester Kaleidoscope statement necklace ÂŁ108

Renowned Wedding Planner Siobhan Craven-Robins

Top Tips to Planning a Perfect Wedding 137

Timing This really is crucial to the success of the day. We have all been to parties and events that went on too long, dragged in places or where we were looking at our watches wondering when would be a polite time to leave. Your day has to be well paced, not just for your guests, but for you. It is an exhausting day that whizzes by in a flood of adrenaline and leaves you wilted but thoroughly elated by the end of it! Realistically, the right amount of time from start of the ceremony to end of the reception is 10 hours. Allow no more than 90 mins for your drinks reception and dancing for 3-4 hours is plenty.

Interesting Décor You don’t have to blow your budget on décor – there are affordable things that can be done that make your reception area look a little different. Colour changing LED lights that fluctuate as the evening draws on, differing heights of arrangements on the dining tables prevents the room looking static and coloured linen adds interest to the tables.

Considering Your Guests It is your day, but you have invited people that you really want to share this memorable occasion with. It is important that you are consid-

138

Images -Pippa MacKenzie, Lloyd Dobbie, Dave Poole

erate to them. For instance if your ceremony location has limited parking, think of providing transport for them to the reception venue. Keep them entertained – the group photographs usually take place during the drinks reception, ensure your guests have sustenance to keep them going and something to entertain them whether it is live music or interactive entertainment such as a magician, palm reader or caricaturist. It helps pass the time for them and keep them in a jolly mood ready for the much anticipated speeches!

Allow Enough Time To Plan Planning your wedding should be an enjoyable experience, and hopefully, a onetime experience! A common thing I hear from couples whose weddings I haven’t planned is that they wished they had relaxed more into the planning instead of feeling fraught and anxious. It is time consuming planning a wedding and I suggest leaving yourself at least 8 months if you are planning it without professional help. Set aside a morning each weekend and an evening each week to do wedding things. Don’t let it take over your life or be something you have to fit in between meetings and commitments. Keeping some time aside each week, makes it enjoyable, something to look forward to and keeps you on track.

Set A Budget This is so important as wedding costs can quickly runaway in the excitement of planning and the wish to have everything you want. Make a list from the outset of everything you want for your wedding and the estimated cost. There will always be extras you hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t thought of, so a contingency fund is also a good idea. If you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t afford your wedding

yet, then think of delaying it while you save more money. Being in debt is not a recommended way to start married life, no matter how wonderful your wedding was! To enquire about Siobhan Craven-Robins visit siobhancraven-robins.co.uk

139

140

Photography by Emma Case

Bejewelled Brooch Bouquets Bridal Editor Rebecca Martin reports on a recent bridal trend which is quickly becoming a favourite amongst contempory brides

The brooch bouquet is quickly emerging as the posy of choice for stylish brides seeking a unique yet modern alternative to traditional floral arrangements. Constructed with thoughtfully sourced brooches and embellishments and delicately hand crafted, the result is a stunning bejewelled masterpiece that guarantees to govern attention on the big day. Brooch bouquets are largely bespoke, catering to individual tastes and colour schemes. Taking into consideration the requirements of each bride, designers are able to tailor make a bouquet to exceed all expectations. Family heirlooms and vintage pieces can be incorporated seamlessly, with ‘something old’ or ‘something borrowed’ becoming part of a stunning arrangement. Smaller, more personalised bouquets can be crafted for bridesmaids, with specific references to each bridesmaid’s personality, creating a sentimental yet extraordinary keepsake of the day - a tiny crystal embellished initial or a

beautiful charm referencing their favourite things, all serve as a thoughtful touch. Regardless of your colour scheme, the brooch bouquet can flourish. Icy silvers intersperse with glittering crystal seamlessly, and those who prefer a more structured shape will discover that even bouquets made up of the most traditional colour schemes are given a much more modern edge - perfect for today’s chic bride. For those seeking something even more unique, coloured bouquets, in shades of gunmetal grey, crimson red and even elegant black, give a tougher look whilst the dazzling embellishments ensure the finished article is one that remains elaborate yet eternally tasteful. With such attention to detail and careful consideration of how different colour tones work together, the result is breathtaking; an exquisite jewelled bouquet that will draw gasps of admiration on the big day, and serve as a wonderful memento and treasured keepsake for many years to come. 141

Creating Your Own

Beautiful Bridal Bouquet Before you can create your bridal bouquet, it is important to select the right flowers. I always ask brides which flowers hold a particular meaning to them and try to incorporate these if possible to create a really personalised, special bouquet. Obviously the time of year in which you are getting married will determine which flowers are in season, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worth bearing this in mind before you set the date if you have 142

your heart set on a particular flower. Also, the flowers you choose should complement the look and colour scheme you have chosen for your big day. I would recommend a visit to your local florist wholesaler for inspiration and to see which combination of flowers work well together. Once you have purchased your flowers, you must then ensure that they are

Emma Case Photography

Article by Charlotte Howard of Hayford & Rhodes

conditioned correctly so that they look their best for the actual wedding day. Some flowers such as peonies and freesias, are bought closed and must be left to open over a few days. Other flowers have a very short lifespan as a cut flower, such as sweet peas for example, so these must be bought closer to the wedding or kept in a cool space. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important to balance these different requirements whilst preparing to make your bouquet.

time so that the stems start to spiral attractively. Position the flowers so that you create a beautiful soft domed shape. Once you are happy with the design, tie the bouquet at the point where you were holding it. Trim the stems to the desired length and cover with your chosen ribbon. You can make the bouquet the day before the wedding to save time â&#x20AC;&#x201C; just keep the bouquet somewhere cool and in a small vase of water so that it remains well hydrated.

When it comes to making the bouquet, firstly remove all the foliage from the To find out more about Hayford & Rhodes stems and de-thorn the roses carefulvisit hayfordandrhodes.co.uk ly. Take a central flower then place another flower behind it at a slight angle. Continue to add more flowers in this way, turning the bouquet a little each

143

144

2013-14 Wedding Cake Trends

Article by Shelly Shulman

I love designing new cakes and when I start work on a new collection I always begin by taking a look into the key trends coming through in the wedding world, not just in wedding cakes but also in bridal fashion. My first stop when designing is to look at the new bridal gown collections for the coming season. A bride’s wedding dress often dictates the style and theme of the wedding, and so can have a substantial impact on the design of the cake. Our Red Carpet collection shows perfectly how you can use elements of your dress within the design of your wedding cake. Pleating, patterns, draped fabric and beautiful lace all lend themselves well for translating into the most wonderful wedding cake designs. Just as brides are seeking an abundance of textures with their dress design, they are also seeking similar detailing for cakes, a look that is particularly stunning on an all-white cake. Ruffles, quilting and even delicate frills are all stand-outs effects. Vera Wang’s 2014 collection showcased a black and white palette, and I predict this being a big trend for the coming wedding season. Such a minimalistic colour palette looks especially fabulous when combined with the twentiesinspired Great Gatsby trend that has been extremely popular this year. The incredible Sarah Burton design worn by Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge inspired a renewed love for all things lace, and this is a trend that remains strong for coming seasons. I expect to see vintage themed wedding cakes for a while yet! Lace work, sugar flowers and soft pastel hues work amazingly well and if you are not a fan of icing then the current trend of naked cakes is just up your street. For every bride seeking a neutral or monochrome colour scheme for their wedding cake, you will find another who craves colour for their big day. Colour is a strong trend for 2014, with pinks and purples continuing to dominate the

wedding industry. The great thing about colour is it can be used in very different ways; colour your wedding cake with coloured icing to make a bold statement or for a more traditional look, retain a more subtle white or ivory icing which beautifully disguises a stunningly coloured ombre cake inside, a sure fire conversation starter following the all-important cutting of the cake! Another incredible way of injecting some colour into your wedding cake, in a way which is subtle but breathtakingly beautiful, is to look towards the trend for hand painted cakes. Hand painted flowers look stunning and florals once again continue to be a popular trend as we move into 2014, with even the simplest of wedding cakes becoming breathtaking when dressed with stunning arrangements of fresh flowers to match those in your bridal bouquet. 145

Renowned Cake Designers On Future Trends

Helen Mansey Bellissimo Cakes

On Trends Geometric patterns, lace, metallics, statement sugar flowers. On Design Gold and silver as accents on the cake or painted onto the whole cake, nude, peach and blush tones, bright colours including purple, yellow and teal. Designs will include a lot of textures and embellishment. Geometric patterns including chevrons, quatrefoil and Moroccan patterns are becoming popular. Lace will feature on many wedding cakes from simply a piece of lace wrapped around the cake to lace from the wedding dress translated onto the cake. On Inspiration From researching what is going on in the industry at the moment to looking ahead at Bridalwear collections for next year gives a good indication of what will filter down onto cakes.

Rosalind Miller 3 Silouhette cakes

On Innovation On the Big Day Edible lace is a great new product, I like The wedding cake can be the centrepiece to incorporate it into my sugar flow- of the reception which ties in all the others to give them a delicate full look like er elements of the wedding together. corsages you could have on your dress.

146

Ceri Olofson Olofson Design On Trends I try to avoid following trends too closely as I think it affects the originality of a design. That being said, clients are inspired by the cakes they see in magazines or blogs and so I am often looking at ways of re-imagining certain details into a new custom design. Ruffles donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seem to be diminishing in popularity, as well as the use of colour, and Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m seeing more and more clients wanting a design that is a total contrast to the venue. We've seen modern art themed cakes in front of a Turner painting, a minimal architectural structure surrounded by ornate chandeliers, and vibrant colours with lots of gold embellishment in an elegant mansion.

On Design I see there being a split in future design directions. There are those who are hankering after the exquisite detailing and elegance of more classic designs and those that want to challenge tradition and reflect their own unique style. I do 147

think that larger cakes hold an enduring appeal as clients realise what a fantastic centrepiece the cake can make in their reception. All manner of inspiring flavours are up for grabs, with clients feeling more adventurous and emboldened by the variety available. Rightly so, the cake is no longer a sad after thought, with slices of heavy fruit cake languishing on platters or wrapped in paper napkins! On Inspiration The majority of inspiration comes from the client. This is the spark that then sets off all sorts of research and development, looking at concepts and details that can be worked into the cake design. Whilst I obviously have my own designing style, it all comes as a response to the individual clients. That’s why every cake I design is so different. I particularly like looking at non-bridal inspiration that doesn’t scream wedding- couture gowns, paintings, sculpture, the venue, or seasonality. On Innovation I like seeing traditional techniques and good old fashioned quality craftsmanship being applied in new ways, I’d love to see a royal icing piping revival. Personally, I enjoy exploring the edible mediums available to us in ways other than the prescribed cutters and 148

tools. When you start making things that don’t have any ready made tools or tutorials, there’s a feeling of being a mad inventor. Sometimes it’s a revelation, other times you realise why it’s not been done before...! On Displays Displays are getting more and more elaborate. Even with classic designs, the chunky silver cake stand is losing favour, and the cake sits on an elegant ceramic pedestal stand or a billowy cloud of fresh flowers. Placement in the room is evolving with the idea of it being a centrepiece, making sure all the guests get a fantastic view for a longer period. Basically a lot more thought is going into how the display can enhance the cake design, rather than being plonked on a table covered in a creased white tablecloth. On the Big Day It provides a focal point, is a way of decorating the venue and tying your theme together. It’s also often the one time that everyone really gets to gather around the couple and take a photo, which means it makes it into one of the strongest lasting memories of the day, long after the last crumb has gone. It’s also one of the few elements that you can have entirely custom crafted, with a million pos-

sibilities to incorporate your style. With so much else on the day you can customise and choose colours, but the basics are decided already, however the cake doesn’t need to have these fixed criteria. Well that’s how I work anyway!

Rosalind Miller

Rosalind Miller Cakes On Trends At the moment, the trends that we have noticed are metallics, painted cakes, and very tall cakes. On Design I predict that wedding cake ‘rules’ will become a lot more relaxed. Couples will feel less pressured to just have a traditional cake. We are already seeing an increase in demand for dessert taOn Displays bles, rainbow cake filling, dummy cakes with kitchen cakes to serve, and unusual flavours. Tall pedestal stands rather than the short drum-type stands are becoming popular. On Inspiration I worked for many years studying, teaching, and practicing design, so I am very observant and pick up inspiration from all around me. At the moment I’m really inspired by Hans Christian Andersen fairytales and Scandinavian art and culture.

On the Big Day The wedding cake is the focal point of the reception normally and cutting the cake is the first thing the couple does together once they are married. The design process also means that they couple can really add their own ideas and vision to the cake to express their personality.

On Innovation There’s a lot of innovation in the cake design industry, and designers are always coming To find out more about the designers visit: up with great new ideas. The most exciting rosalindmillercakes.com and innovative trend that I have seen reolofsondesign.com cently is water-colour technique on cake. bellissimocakes.com

149

The Sweet Stylist dessert table to perfection. Sweet tables offer sweets displayed in exquisite glassware; both stylish and tasteful providing a distinctive twist. The Sweet tables feature delightful confectioneries, whilst the dessert table showcases delicious baked goods and confectionery styled to ‘wow’ any wedding guest.

Distinctive and eye-teasingly good their confectioneries are destined to take yourself and your wedding guests down If you are looking for something novel, nos- memory lane in the finest of style, maktalgic and memorable to ensure that yours ing “all your sweet wishes come true.” is a most distinctive reception then you might want to consider The Sweet Stylist. Prices begin at £160.00 Based in Ascot, Berkshire, they can advise, To find out more visit thesweetstylist.co.uk plan, theme and customise your sweet or 150

Graham Nixon Photography

Every wedding planner aims for a wedding reception which is a feast for all the senses. For the bride and groom and their assembled guests the sights, sounds, textures and tastes of the day will magically linger on for years to come; the icing on the cake, so to speak. The catering options for that special day can be as individual and stylish as the couple wish, with the range of bespoke options ever widening to suit all tastes and pockets.

Get 10% Off This October By Using

BritMODE

151

152

Big Day

Breakdown

153

The Wedding Fairyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Big Day Break Down

By George Watts Review Pt 1 - by Moira

There may be any number of things a prospective bride and groom need in order to prepare for 'the big day' and one of them most certainly is this little treasure penned by TWF himself. If marriage is in your stars, what better way to embark on it than to trip down the aisle, armin-arm, so to speak, with the only other man who's committed to your 'happily ever after.'

His style is utterly engaging, highly entertaining whilst surprising with his valuable insights and tips for getting the most out of your big day. He will make you laugh and smile in recognition as he transports you towards an array of ideas, know-how and savings, certain to help you avoid pitfalls for the unwary. From his 'three fundamentals,' to insider information on This is a book bursting with essential wedding which outlets offer you the smartest deals, gems from the get-go, revealing how to cap- his wedding dress advice is simply a 'wow!' ture all your treasured memories as you embark on the sweeping, confetti strewn path You'll discover that aside from the fact that to 'I do!' George pin-points how the betrothed this essential wedding preparation comcan hold onto those special memory markers panion is a must, you'll recognise George along the way, and all in the most cost effective as a personal and National Treasure. manner. As George himself might point out, the perfect day owes much to planning ahead. To purchase visit any good book store. 154

Loves Bridal Christopher Kane embellished shift dress £3662.79 Chanel Vintage pearl necklace £595

Valentino floral dress £1932.92 Jenny Packham Cosmic Earring Mint Rose £182.00

Louis Vuitton Vintage monogram embossed pouchette £1406.4 Collection 'Ani Bis' pump £549.38

156

Saint Laurent pointed toe pump £383.95

Ermanno Scervino fleur de lis earrings £369.18 Tom Ford Jasmin Rouge eau de parfum 100ml £210.00

Louis Roederer Cristal 2005 Magnum £525.00 Armand De Brignac Ace Of Spades Rosé £475.00

Neuhaus Luxury Selection Box 1.5kg £140.00

157

Hen Parties for the

Daring & Sophisticated Article by Kimmy Spreadbury

Darling Collectives ‘Rare as is true love, true friendship is rarer’ is a fine quote by Jean De La Fontaine, which adequately sums up the strong and enduring bonds of friendships women share on the journey towards marriage. With the well-deserved rise of ‘girl power’ and bachelorette style holidays, many women are taking time out to relax and spend time with friends. 158

From skiing to Goddess spa weekends, hen parties have evolved into a bespoke package celebrating all things feminine. Alice fell down the rabbit hole and found herself at a tea party, but if she had taken the other path she would have found veils of lace, pearls and an altogether rather different sort of tea. Hol-

‘10% Off Exclusively For British MODE readers’ loway Smith Noir has opened its doors to the mysterious and sensual world of burlesque nostalgia and feminine tease, providing a truly unique and risqué hen party. Here polyester sashes are tossed aside in favour of seductive luxury. Inspiration and ambiance is artfully created by means of a thirty minute tease class in boudoir elegance, accompanied of course with vintage cocktails.

their femme fatale and take part in a titillating tea party with a twist. All of the exquisite fabrics are painstakingly sourced, and hens will work with only the very finest quality silks, ribbons and velvet, to ensure an original and unique design, with the blushing bride gifted a delicate and beautiful garter at the end of this very grown up tea party.

Holloway Smith Noir’s lingerie boutique prizes the natural feminine form and celebrates curves with decadent lace, pretty florals and accents of pearls. Here, for two truly liberating hours, women are invited to seek out

This month only, British MODE readers get an exclusive 10% off on their amazing Tassel Making & Tease Tea Party! Email hens@darlingcollective.com quoting British MODE to receive this offer. 159

Unique Home Stays Olive Grove Seclusion, privacy and tranquillity encapsulate the essence of this AndalucĂan farmhouse. Residing in the striking mountains, overlooking the Sierra Tejeda National Park, the Olive Grove presents a beautifully rustic backdrop for your hen party, peppered with discrete mod-cons. Tapas and fresh flowers celebrate your arrival and welcome you and your guests to the hospitable and warm Spanish way of life. Local produce is prized and provides a rich spectrum of colours and tastes to tease the palette, and a culinary break can be combined with your stay so you and your guest can truly experience the prized local gastronomy. The Unique Home Stay also offers an optional spa package, ensuring that the blushing bride-to-be 160

is primed and polished ahead of her big day. After breakfast, shaded by fragrant bougainvillea, guests can enjoy a refreshing dip in the azure pool, dropping away to reveal breath-taking views of the wild olive groves and tempting Mediterranean sea. Guests can also enjoy guided tours of neighbouring cities and excursions into the nearby national park. Dinner is served from the delightfully idiosyncratic al fresco kitchen, after which you and your closest friends can retire to one of the luxurious four double bedrooms for the ultimate sleepover. In keeping with the local geniality, an indigenous tree is planted for each visiting group, nurturing the landscape and creating a sentimental, living memory for years to come.

Eagles Rest Set majestically in the picturesque mountains of Puerto Banus, Andalucia, Eagles rests offers an unusual and decadent retreat for cosmopolitan women. From your private pool, up to eight lucky hens can gaze across the mountains and harbours, perhaps even catching a glimpse of the retreats namesake. Luxury and opulence is paramount, with a lavish marble staircase connecting the three levels and extravagant bedrooms. Here friends can relax, gossip and rejuvenate together in the Spanish terraced gardens, and for a spot of retail therapy, the Golden Mile offers an abundance of luxury designer boutiques, in which to while away the afternoon.

touch of rustic Spanish life, with local fresh produce and sights before heading to the 'millionaires playground'. From this vibrant and luxurious port, guests can climb aboard a three hour cruise, anchoring at a quiet beach before partaking in water sports. Alternative activities form an exhaustive list comprised of canoeing, mountain biking, 4x4 jeep safari, laser clay pigeon shooting and spelunking (cave exploring). Under the Spanish sun ebullient play and homely tradition harmoniously rub shoulders to provide an alternative hen party getaway focused on friends, relaxation and style.

To enquire about Olive Grove or Eagles Rest A trip to neighbouring Marbella provides a visit uniquehomestays.com 161

Silvanus Cornwall, in recent years has become one of the top locations in England for 'holidays', thanks to its idyllic countryside, quaint harbours and postcard perfect towns; yet some homes still retain an air of contemporary luxury. In a scenic, elevated position above Mevagissey, the vast and impressive retreat of Silvanus offers modern finesse alongside traditional luxury. Set amongst two acres of private, landscaped gardens, Silvanus embodies extravagance and fun. From the cricket lawn, tennis court and home cinema, to the private raised bar with its very own disco hall.

the night away. Additional sleeping arrangements are also available in the adjacent property, Skippers. Sumptuous details sit elegantly amongst crisp architecture and clean lines, providing an emotive dĂŠcor of Kevin McCloud meets Nigella Lawson.

Surrounding activities promote a 'back to basics' attitude with nostalgic days on the beach and the wonderful Eden project a mere ten miles away. Here you can rediscover the simple joys of friendship, away from the stresses of work, taking time to relax before a decadent dinner and delightfully retro disco. An emotional farewell at the kennels can be The modern manor's interior boasts five avoided as the ultimate party house permits double bedrooms, two twin rooms and a several dogs and if the English weather deseparate honeymoon suite; offering more nies the sun, thankfully the pool is heated! than enough room for ten guests to dance 162

Contemporary Venues

164

For The Decidedly Trendy Bride

165

Natural History Museum Article by Kimberleigh spreadbury

Just as heritage fashion has experienced a recent revival in popularity, so too has the charm of heritage restoration, creating a new genre of wedding venue quite unlike anything we have ever seen before. With modern brides yearning for venues that combine this heritage charm with unequivocal luxury, along with the convenience of central city locations, the wedding venue rule book is being rewritten. Magical hidden nirvanas, nestled amidst the historic landmarks and cosmopolitan addresses of our great cities, 166

see a world transformed into a place where history combines with epic extravagance - the result being a truly breathtaking wedding day. We have unearthed four jewels in the crown of five star luxury wedding venues, all offering a unique heritage setting combined with exquisite service, delectable menus and opulent settings in which to exchange your vows and begin your future together.

To enquire about The Natural History Museum Tel: +44 (0)20 7942 5434

One would imagine that there is little more romantic than uttering those special vows in the presence of precious friends and family before taking your first steps together as a married couple, amidst thousands of years of history. The magnificently sculpted gothic arches of The Natural History Museum create a magical ambiance under which to hold your special day, the smooth stone reflecting the solid foundations you as a couple both share and celebrate.

the stunning artefacts become a romanticised backdrop for your day entirely. If your celebrations require even more space, The Earth Hall shimmers in futuristic style complete with a metallic globe sculpture and celestial maps adorning the monumental walls. The Earth Hall comfortably seats up to 500 guests for reception soirĂŠes. Alternative settings include the light and spacious Darwin Centre, with lovely outdoor seating and privAn iconic and ileged views spectacularly of the Nature beautiful Longallery, or don building, even an amalwith its vast arches, skyward spires and hand gamation of various cocoon-like rooms carved gargoyles, The Natural History Muse- and use of all three spectacular spaces. um stands as a monument to early 19th century British architecture and Romanesque ro- Multiple galleries, intriguing platforms and mance. Offering a choice of three stunning staircases adorned with terracotta sculptures spaces, the museum embodies elegance and draw the eye through the many levels of this instyle, oozing a luxury with which many other credible building; inviting guests to explore an venues simply cannot compete. From dinner alternative world of mystery and enchantment. served beneath a Diplodocus, to a spectacu- Glancing upwards, guests are treated to an exclularly lit, twinkling dance floor, its resident wed- sive art gallery complimented by attention grabding experts pull out all the stops to transform bing celling panels, reflective of an era captivated each setting, lending this exquisite venue a with its natural surroundings and discoveries. delicious blend of nostalgia and opulent style. In addition to the incredible surroundings ofThe grand Central Hall comfortably hosts up-to fered by the Natural History Museum, their 1,200 guests (700 dinner guests,) with each room expert team of dedicated planners work with expertly lit, draped, polished and dressed to suit an extensive list of the finest quality supplithe grandeur of the occasion. From breath tak- ers, working to bestow the ultimate in luxing flower arrangements to theatrical lighting, ury and glamour upon your special day. 167

Mansfield Traquair Article by Kimberleigh spreadbury For those journeying North towards the roll- ry of this unique location certainly will. ing hills and vast lakes of Scotland, Mansfield Traquair makes the journey truly worthwhile. Appropriately known as 'Edinburgh's Sistine Chapel', Mansfield Traquairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sculpted to draw the eye skyward with breathtaking artworks were created by the use of dramatic architecture, Mans- Phoebe Anna Moss, who later married field Traquair offers a jaw dropping set- palaeontologist Dr Ramsay Traquair in ting for your perfect day. If the picturesque 1873. Her passion for Celtic illuminated landscape and vibrancies of Edinburgh manuscripts and Pre-Raphaelite art, is rearen't quite exciting enough for your flected in the romantic atmosphere. With guests, then the exquisite five star luxu- her imagination and passion, the Church 168

blossomed from a simple place of worship to a grand mural of art, architecture and a testament to Edinburgh's vast heritage. Through the monumental halls and archways of this wondrous venue, a fairy tale can begin with the love and magnitude only a wedding deserves. With each detail meticulously tended to by the venues management team, every wish is granted and every dream realised in making your big day the best day of your life.

join you for a stunning reception amidst the exquisite decadence of the surroundings. The rich historical significance and grand majesty of this dramatic building, combined with the finest bespoke planning service and incredible cuisine, makes Mansfield Traquair a truly awe-inspiring luxury wedding venue.

To enquire about Mansfield Traquair visit Mansfield Traquairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s passion for food tran- mansfieldtraquair.co.uk or contact Joanne scends all expectations, even from a luxuPagan via 0131 474 6195 / ry venue. Gastronomy is delicately crafted joanne@heritageportfolio.co.uk using local produce, serving up a delectable feast to amaze the palate of up to 300 dinner Images by Blue Sky Photography guests, with the potential for 400 more to 169

One Mayfair Article by Rebecca Martin Formerly St Markâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Church, this incredible Grade I listed building was built between 1825 and 1828, standing as one of the finest examples of the neoclassical design for which architect John Peter Gandy is famed. Since being deconsecrated in the 1970â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, One Mayfair has been painstakingly hand-restored, to such an incredible standard that some might say it even exceeds its former glory.

are transported to a world of sheer opulence and stunning excess. Three main spaces are available for hire, from the modernised Mezzanine lit by twinkling gilded chandeliers, to the Basement, or the piece de resistance; the Grand Hall, an 800 sq. ft. masterpiece of architecture where up to 600 guests can dance the night away beneath magnificent vaulted ceilings and breathtaking stained glass windows.

As guests enter the commanding frontage of Both the Mezzanine and the Grand Hall are One Mayfair, located within the cosmopoli- licensed for marriage ceremonies, each pretan exclusivity of Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s West End, they senting a glamorous scene in which to ex170

change your vows and amaze your guests. The spectacular chancel area of the Grand Hall is the jewel in the crown of One Mayfair, an imposing and impressive area steeped in history and rich in detail, from the intricately carved dark wood to the majestically beautiful stained glass windows. Family and friends will marvel at the incredible architecture of the room, whilst revelling in the incomparable luxury that a wedding day at One Mayfair can offer. The venues dedicated ‘TLC’ team, are experts in making sure your big day is better than you could ever have dreamt it would be. Whether opting for their semi-bespoke service or not, One Mayfair’s personal wedding coordinators will work with the best suppliers in the industry to create a day you will remember forever.

For further information visit onemayfair. com or alternatively Tel: 020 7380 1663 Photography by Wise Productions and Bespoke Events 171

One Marylebone Article by Rebecca Martin With its central London location, right in the heart of the capital and mere moments away from leafy Richmond Park, One Marylebone is quickly gaining a reputation as one of the most dazzling five-star wedding venues available. Delicately restored back to the original Neoclassical designs of renowned architect Sir John Soane, this Grade I former Holy Trinity Church houses three breathtaking172

ly impressive spaces, along with a perfectly manicured courtyard. Deconsecrated in the mid-20th century, One Marylebone has wholeheartedly retained the incomparable grandeur one would expect from a building with such a rich religious heritage. Fitting for a venue renowned for housing the most exclusive of weddings, the stunning design marries the classic with the contemporary, resulting in a perfect unity.

Exterior Image by Olivia Shaw Photography

The venues Galleries and Basement offer dramatic settings for a smaller union. Providing a more contemporary space, The Basement combines a maze of high ceilings, grand arches and statuesque pillars, with spaces between serving as the perfect place for guests to catch their breath between celebrations and enjoy the ambience of the venue. During the daytime natural light floods in through the grand full length windows of the East and West galleries, bathing the space with a delicious heavenly glow. Crystal chandeliers hang from elaborately corniced ceilings, catching sun rays during the day and twinkling like starlight at night. With all spaces available to hire for exclusive use throughout the whole day and night, The Galleries in particular provide an exceptionally romantic space in which to hold a ceremony, before moving celebrations into Soane Hall; One Maryleboneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;jewel in the crownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Retaining the original mosaic and stained

glass features of its original design, Soane Hall is a truly magnificent space. Up to 250 guests can dine in the most opulent of surroundings, with the opportunity for a further 250 guests joining the happy couple later as they dance the night away beneath the elaborate 27ft high ceilings. The option is available to enjoy the hall in all of its natural glory; alternatively you may choose to transform the space with help from some of the best names in the production industry, transporting your guests to a world of ultimate extravagance and decadence, exquisitely complimented by the unique original features of such a historic building. One Marylebone offer the opportunity for couples to work with some of the best suppliers in the UK, with dedicated wedding coordinators delivering a fully bespoke service, creating a venue that exceeds all of your dreams and expectations on you big day. To find out more about One Marylebone visit onemarylebone.com or Tel: 020 7380 1663

173

D&G sequin embellished pouchette £835

Thierry Lasry 'Lively' sunglasses £372.01

A.P.C. art deco ring £57.14

Mary Katrantzou printed scarf £589.56

Chanel Vintage pearl cabochons bracelet £342.81 174

Lucien Pellat Finet drum bag £254.57

Chanel Vintage camelia bracelet £1428.65

Anton Heunis leaf motif earrings £149.4

ck one 3 in 1 face makeup SPF 8 £25

Alexander McQueen printed dress £738.36 175

Secret Retreats

Adventurous Asian Honeymoons Article by Kimberleigh Spreadbury Whilst most girls have been planning their dream wedding day since they first learnt to tie their laces, it would appear that the romantic souls at Secret Retreats have been dreaming up the ideal Honeymoon to accompany it. Redefining luxury as the interactions, experiences and memories in the world around us, Secret Retreats have built an incredible empire throughout Asia, which is simply drenched in style.

ebrating the unique architecture, surrounding nature and local cultures. Designed and nurtured by the creative and experienced minds of Bruno Ferret and Federico Asaro, each five star resort utilises and promotes the countries local history, traditions, culture and cuisine. An affectionate and mutual relationship with local farmers provides restaurants with fresh ingredients and an authentic taste - surpassing expectations with the strong social and ecological founSecret Retreats create a bespoke experience dation Secret Retreats so greatly cherish. steeped in tradition and authenticity, by cel176

Silolona Vessel If relaxing in a world of luxury whilst sailing peacefully in calm blue seas is your idea of heaven, then the Silolona Vessel, gliding effortlessly through the Indonesian waves will most certainly appeal to you. Whilst afloat on the crystal blue waters, luxury and style remains a prominent feature, with just five private cabins aboard making this retreat an intimate and exclusive getaway.

scape around them, creating quality bonding experiences. From swimming with turtles, to a steamy volcano trek or authentic fishing at sea, the Silolona Vessel ensures a relaxing and magical adventure and the ideal start to the first chapter of your married life.

To find out more about this getaway along Your best swimwear is vital as couples are with other trips round Indonesia visit http:// immersed in activities each designed to en- secret-retreats.com/en/discover/indonesia courage interaction with the stunning land177

The Tree Of Life

In keeping with the traditional palaces and forts around it, The Tree of Life, as its emotive name suggests, offers a sensual, private and mystical hideaway for newly weds. Comprised of fourteen luxury villas nestled deep in the Aravalli hills, this resort provides a quiet escape from the city, a peaceful nirvana immersed in history and arts, and with 'you' at the heart of its design. From couple orientated menus in the elegant restaurants, to spa treatments and soothing meditation, The Tree of Life combines the magical ambiance of India with classical romance.

dial Mughal gardens providing a dramatic backdrop to any romantic getaway, complete with an enchanting elephant trek or simple peaceful stroll below the stars after midnight. Guests have the humbling opportunity to interact with the remarkable residents by teaching a class at the local school, or may alternatively decide to partake in tranquil meditative sessions, giving a privileged insight into a unique and magical way of life. Intimacy, love and family is at the heart of this resort, and even whilst relaxing in your own private pool, a sense of belonging and kinship is felt throughout, creating a truFrom the sumptuous pink stone walls of the ly memorable and treasured experience. hidden city, privacy and luxury is paramount in this breathtaking environment, abundant To enquire visit http://secret-retreats.com/en/ with ancient spirits and wildlife. The primordiscover/india 178

The Scent

For an altogether vintage atmosphere look no further than The Scent Hotel in Koh Samui, Thailand. As expected with any Secret Retreat's boutique hotel, the dĂŠcor expertly blends elegant Thai architecture with Colonial charm, giving a nostalgic nod to the 1950's and 60's.

postcard views across the crystal clear waters, couples can also enjoy explorations to the local coral reefs, as well as trying their hand at fruit carving or relaxing whilst watching a classical film surrounded by the old school ambience of the hotel, before leaving the resort with a deeper understanding of their own spirit and roles as soul mates.

This delightful boutique hotel offers couples the ultimate personalised and hospitable atmosphere, with staff striving to create The enquire about a honeymoon in this a secret world to be enjoyed and explored. glorious location visit http://secret-retreats.com/en/retreats/the-scent-hotel Experienced perfumers contribute delicate and calming scents, which drift throughout the resort and spa, taking you on a sensory adventure. Combined with a gorgeous authentic beach front restaurant and picture

179

The Jahan, Mekong River History and adventure are elegantly combined aboard The Jahan. Weaving its way through The Mekong River, Vietnamese and Cambodian cultures harmoniously marry to create an utterly unique experience with plenty of heart. On board The Jahan twenty six light and airy cabins await, oozing extravagance and offering a new dimension to river cruising. On board this floating sanctuary guests can completely unwind at the vesselâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spa, pool and dining suites - all providing the ideal lookout to bask in the peaceful, tranquil, scenic surroundings.

ing villages and luscious flora. A highlight of The Jahan's itinerary is for travellers to be immersed in, and assist the communities along the river; establishing lasting and memorable bonds with the people who are so integral to keeping this beautiful country and culture alive.

As a floating boutique, The Jahan offers a dreamy escape with an explorative voyage through time, and of course the destination itself offers so much more. From the breathtaking yet tranquil path it carves through the river, to the rich encounters with locals, the result is an original experience which A keen eye may very well catch a glimpse of firmly places this Secret Retreat as a fanthe rare Irrawaddy dolphin or the wild water tastical escape worthy of Asia's grandeur. buffalo, whilst gliding past the friendly floatVisit http://secret-retreats.com/ to enquire 180

Sukoon Houseboat Another facet to Secret Retreats extensive portfolio is the luxurious Sukoon Houseboat. Drifting across Kaashmiri's Dal Lake, it transports the intemperance and charm of boutique hotels onto water. A chic deck offers uncompromised views of the lake and mountains. Guests can blissfully bask in the glorious sunshine whilst listening to the calming sounds of the water. Known as the 'paradise' gateway to the Himalayas, the boat is surrounded by lotus flower fields and floating vegetable gardens. Inside the intimate five suite boat, intricate carved panels adorn the walls, the extensive use of natural wood and hand-woven carpets creating an atmosphere of warmth, comfort and stability craftsmanship. Each room is simplistic and reminis-

cent of the Victorian era, allowing you to reflect without any superficial distractions. Twice awarded the CNBC Travel award for Best Resort for health and rejuvenation, staff treat the well-being of guests with their utmost consideration. Guests are invited on romantic excursions, to lost and forgotten temples, on safari and privileged walks through saffron fields offers an emotive and rich relationship with the locals and their breath taking environment. Food for the soul surpasses expectation as authentic curries and spices lead you on a sensual exploration and provide the idyllic finishing touch to this natural wonder. Visit http://secret-retreats.com/en/retreats/sukoon-houseboat to enquire 181

Muang La Nestled in the shadows of ancient Buddhist temples, the Muang La Resort, Burma, captures the essence of the enigmatic and beautiful region of Laos. Inspired by luxury tents found in South Africa, resort designer Jean Paul Duverge created Muang La as a fixed lodge in celebration of its breath-taking location and authentic sceneries. A rope bridge entrance ignites a sense of exploration and adventure in the heart of those travelling to the Muang La Resort. Built in the traditional Laotian style and framed by fragrant and delicate gardens, the Muang La divulges a tranquil and natural setting. Local artists and crafter's supply the exquisite furniture and dĂŠcor, in keeping with the be182

spoke nature and philosophy of the resort. Comprised of nine luscious rooms, Muang La offers immersion into the laid back and harmonious lifestyle, through exceptional massages and local hot springs and the gentle flow of the Mekong River. For couples wishing to celebrate their newly-wed status in style and in an ambiance only a bespoke, rural hideaway can bestow, then look no further than the private and secret world of Muang La! This is truly a perfect getaway for those seeking a relaxing honeymoon which encapsulates both the traditional and cultural aspects of one of East Asia's most strikingly beautiful locations. To find out more contact dream@secret-retreats.com

Cabochon Taking a step back from the bustling and vibrant streets of Bangkok, the Cabochon Hotel and Residence beckons softly, promising peace and serenity to all who enter within. Crisp clean lines and a seductive ivory toned exterior are every inch as luxurious as one would expect, making it a rather cosy sanctuary for the romantic adventurer, who's seeking a semi-secluded hideaway.

The rooftop terrace pool offers a relaxing getaway with exquisite views and an Oriental retro glamour exclusive to the boutique. Downstairs in a warmly lit restaurant, local Thai cuisines and lesser known dishes from Isan, Chiang Mai and Laos are celebrated and served by the friendly and attentive staff; eager to display the grace and hospitality of their strong family heritage. Within the inviting and warming walls of the Cabochon, Stepping inside evokes a nostalgic ambiance amongst the treasured antiques, guests are of the Orient circa 1920, with a fresh and in- treated to a classic, peaceful home, with hisviting dĂŠcor of warm leather trunks and an- tory, opulence and wealth at its very heart. cient timber panels. Each of the eight sleeping quarters echoes the traditional charm of To find out more contact dream@secret-rean era gone by, with quaint leafy balconies treats.com offering a tranquil nook to reflect on the day. 183

Current Offers - Health Retreat at Tree of Life, India Dates: 20-27 October, from £2259.42 per person – airport transfers, 7 nights’ accommodation, full board and program for 7 days - The Mystic Mekong - Photographic Explorations with Andrew Lim Dates from: 19 - 26 October 2013 from £2034.40 per person - 7 nights’ accommodation, return flight Bangkok - Luang Prabang, all transportation, guide and all meals as indicated in the program. For 7 or 8 participants - rates may vary -Stay 3 nights and Pay only 2 on Sukoon Houseboat From 25 October to 30 November 2013, book 3 nights and pay only 2! Offer available when booking with the code SRNEWS-0813 -A unique opportunity to sail on a Silolona Vessel Rates: £1350.10 per day/person, full board, all taxes included visit secret-retreats.com to find out more

Xynergy Anti Ageing Fitness Plan Article by Caroline Topperman

186

e all want to look younger: We want luminous skin, thick shiny hair, strong nails and a strong body that can do anything and take us anywhere. In this modern day world of stress filled deadlines, the constant beeping of smart phones etc. we forget about ourselves and what we are doing to our bodies. Sluggish around 3pm regardless of the coffee? Consider your diet and exercise plan. With so much dietary information, it's tough to know what to eat, how much, which supplements to take, when to exercise and how much. The secret to your success is to keep it simple, follow a plan that's easy and fits your lifestyle. With over 20 years experience in the fitness and nutrition industry, Rick's diet incorporates latest findings in nutritional science about combining healthy protein and snacking, keeping you on track all day. Protein is an essential element, it regulates blood sugar levels and keeps you satiated for long periods. Regular healthy snacking prevents you from reaching for sugary snacks by 3pm.

ready for anything the day throws at you. Begin with a glass of warm water mixed with the juice of half a lemon kick-starting the liver, your digestive functions and metabolising fat. A protein-based breakfast helps weight management with carbohydrates providing energy, helping with cognitive function. Try 2 free range eggs, 1 piece of rye or wholegrain toast with organic butter or olive oil margarine. In a hurry, then the Sun Warrior Protein shake with rice milk and berry shots makes for the perfect 'on-the-go' breakfast; high in protein and amino acids keeping you full until lunchtime. Add 1 tablespoon of Sapphire Blueberry Shots for a nutrient dense cellular fuel perfect for hair, skin, nails and energy.

It’s crucial to be conscious of what you are putting into your body. Supplements help ensure that you get all the essentials your body needs. Highly processed foods make us feel sluggish, slowing down our metabolism. With Xynergy the focus is on eating healthy, wholesome foods with selected supplements to round out the diet. You are encouraged to eat: Berries, fresh fruit and vegetable juice, nuts – especially almonds. Eat salmon or small fish and bitWhen your complete nutritional system is ter greens such as chicory or rocket which all based on healthy foods, you will find yourhave liver cleansing properties. And plenty of self releasing unwanted weight, your brain stewed apples – they’re the perfect gut soother. function will improve and you will feel and look younger. For lasting results you have to A healthy diet consists of a balance of protein, make great nutrition part of your lifestyle. carbohydrates and fats, none of these should be avoided, each meal having a balance of the To find out more visit www. xynergy.co.uk three. Start with a great breakfast, you'll be 187

Beef Empanadas

190

World Renowned Chef Diego Jacquet Shares A Delectable Recipe

Ingredients / Serves 18 500gr flour 000 125gr lard 1 egg 200ml water 1 tsp salt 500 grs minced Argentine quality beef 500 grs minced onions 1 bunch spring onions 2 cups of potato brunoise 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp chilli flakes 1 tsp dried oregano 3 tsp Chopped parsley Olive oil Salt & pepper

Diego Jacquet is a incredibly talented world renowned chef, who began his career in Buenos Aires. Jacquet is currently Chef Patron of restaurants Casa Malevo and Zoilo in London, and of boCHINche in Singapore.

Procedure The secret of a good empanada is moist! Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why the secret here is same amount of meat and onions. 1- Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas 4 2- For the pastry dough, combine the flour and salt in a mixing bowl. 3- Cut the lard into sugar cube sized chunks, add to the flour, and rub the fat into the flour until it forms fine crumbs. Add the mixed egg and water to form a soft dough. Set aside in the fridge to rest for an hour. 4- For the empanada filling, heat one spoon of olive oil in a large fry pan at medium heat. Add the onion and 2 spoons of fine sea salt, cover and let it sweat for 10 minutes. 5- Add all spices and meat and let it cook cover for other 15 minutes stirring continuously. Return the meat and juices to the pan and mix well, set aside to go cold. 6- Finally add potatoes, finely chopped spring onions & parsley let it cook only 5 more minutes. Take aside, rectify season and let it rest. 7- To fill the empanadas, take the pastry out of the fridge, and on a wellfloured surface, roll out a thin sheet. Using a saucer or a tea plate, cut out discs of pastry. 8- On one half of the pastry circle place the filling, brush the edge with egg, fold over, and crimp the edges together. (if you are not used to, just press the edge with a fork) 9- Brush with egg and place on a greased baking tray. 10- Bake for ten minutes or until golden. - Buen provecho!!!! 191

Cool Cocktail Recipes Pascal is currently bar manager of The Perkin Reveller perkinreveller.co.uk 020 3166 6949

192

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I believe that mixology is like being a kind of chef but working around different types of alcohol. Discovering different types of bars & bartenders made me realise how vast mixology really is.â&#x20AC;? 193

British Noggin Ingredients 40ml White chocolate & spices Scotch Whisky 15 ml Frangelico 40ml full fat milk 1 whole egg 10ml Sugar syrup (rich syrup) Toasted Almonds

Method 1. Blend the ingredents together 2. Shake 3. Double strain in to a brandy balloon 4. Garnish with toasted almonds and/or grated milk 194

Lemon Cooler Ingredients 30ml Lemongrass infused beefeater gin 25ml Homemade lemon Verbena Cordial 15ml Lemon juice Angostura Bitters Fever-Tree Bitter Lemon

Method 1. Blend ingredients with 4 dashes Angostura Bitters 2. Shake all ingredients except the bitter lemon 3. Strain into a glass of crushed ice & add bitter lemon 4. Decorate with lemon grass & dried lemon 195

Claudeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kichen Cocktail Recipes

196

Amalfi Lemon & Lavender

Martini

Ingredients

Method

Sipsmith Gin 50ml

1. Blend ingredients together 2. Mix in a cocktail shaker or any container with a tight fitting lid 3. Double strain into a chilled Martini glass 4. Garnish with Lavender sprig.

Amalfi Lemon 25ml Sugar Syrup 25ml Lavender Sprig 2 Sprigs

Calories 145 Recipe courtesy of AMUSE BOUCHE | CLAUDEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S KITCHEN 51 Parsons Green Lane, SW6 4JA | 020 7371 8517 AmuseBoucheLondon.com | @AmuseBoucheLDN

197

198

Parsons Green Sour

Ingredients Bulleit Bourbon 50ml Lemon Juice 25ml Sugar syrup 25ml

Method

Egg White 1 egg

1. Dry shake Bourbon, lemon juice, sugar syrup, & egg white 2. Shake with ice & strain 3. Pour red wine down a bar spoon to create red wine float. 4. Garnish with Lemon chunk.

Percheron / Red Wine Float

Calories 160

Recipe courtesy of AMUSE BOUCHE | CLAUDEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S KITCHEN 51 Parsons Green Lane, SW6 4JA | 020 7371 8517 AmuseBoucheLondon.com | @AmuseBoucheLDN

199

200

Negroni Sgabliato Ingredients Campari 25ml Martini Rosso 25ml Champagne 50ml

Calories 130

Method 1. Pour Campari & Martini Rosso over ice, stir briefly & top with champagne. 2. Garnish with Lemon chunk and twisted orange peel Recipe courtesy of AMUSE BOUCHE | CLAUDEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S KITCHEN 51 Parsons Green Lane, SW6 4JA | 020 7371 8517 AmuseBoucheLondon.com | @AmuseBoucheLDN

201

Master

Nick Mixologist Strangeway

Shares His Beer Cocktail Concoctions 202

Ingredients 25ml Gin 25ml Lemon Juice 2 Spoons Seville Marmalade 10ml Gomme Tangle Foot Lemon Wedge

disco Badger Disco Badger is based around traditional flavours of the countryside, gin the national spirit, marmalade and lemon - it incorporates very historically relevant ingredients, notable through its distinctive flavour profile.

Method

1. Bleind the Gin, lemon juice, Gomme & Seville marmalade together 2. Stir with a barspoon & fill the glass with ice 3. Top with Tangle Foot 4. Garnish with a slice of lemon wedge 203

Ingredients 25ml Lemon Juice 25ml Orange Juice 25ml Bourbon 20ml Maple Syrup

Ferrets Bells

This is a rich, full bodied cocktail, accentuating the almost maple flavours in Fursty ferret, combined with the classic combination of bourbon and orange juice.

Method

1. Stir ingredients together with a bar spoon 2. Fill a pint glass with ice 3. Top with Fursty Ferret 4. Finally garnish with an orange wedge 204

Ingredients 5/6 Basil Leaves 10ml Honey 2 Dash Angostura bitters

Golden Champion

Honey Badger

This is a light, very natural and fresh tasting cocktail. It looks intriguing with the basil leaves, combined with 1/4 bottle of Golden Champion which creates a delicate scent and refreshing flavour.

Method

1. Stir ingredients together vigorously with 1/4 bottle of Golden Champion - to dissolve the honey & release the basil flavours 2. Fill a glass with ice and add another 1/4 bottle Champion then garnish with basil leaf

205

Fizz

Hopping Glory

206

Ingredients 25ml Blended Whiskey 1/2 Bar spoon Absinthe 20ml Lemon Juice 15ml Gomme 1 Egg White

This is a slightly stronger and more complex drink. Based on a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;morning glory fizzâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, a traditional eye opener adapted from Modern American Drinks, by George Kappler 1895. The hops in the ale compliment the rich flavours. This is aimed primarily at current cocktail drinkers as a point of difference.

1. Shake the ingredients without ice 2. Shake again with ice 3. Strain into an empty glass 4. Top with 1/2 a bottle of Hopping Hare

Nick currently runs a drinks consultancy company called Strange Hill with Cairbry Hill. They have worked with clients such as Jameson, Wyborowa, King Ginger and Absolut Craft.

207

AUSTIN REED The New Season