BROOKLYN
BREAD Good Food News « Delivered Fresh
Thursday, November 25, 2010 « Vol. 1, No. 2 « Free Publication « Brooklyn, NY
MY PERFECT DAY By Saul Bolton PAGE 15
The good folks of Eagle Street Rooftop Farm held a Giving Thanks Dinner at Brooklyn Kitchen this past Saturday. Photograph by Allen Ying – see pages 6-12 for more
INSIDE THE FREE MAGAZINE THAT’S FULL OF GOOD FOOD & DRINK...
Tasty Things To Try This Weekend
Making Pork Schnitzel, The Prime Meats Way
Second Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake-Off Benefit
Life Behind The Bar At Sycamore
PAGES 4-5
PAGE 13
PAGES 14-22
PAGE 37
BROOKLYN BREAD
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Thursday, November 25, 2010
From The Editors
Almanac
Our Team
THURSDAY November 25 Showers
Editor Danielle Franca Swift
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Editor Jack Wright
High Temperature: 48 Low Temperature: 40 Chance of Turkey: 100% Sunrise: 6:54am Sunset: 4:32pm Moon phase: 89% visible
FRIDAY November 26 Few showers
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High Temperature: 47 Low Temperature: 32 Chance of Rain: 30% Sunrise: 6:55am Sunset: 4:31pm Moon phase: 81% visible
SATURDAY November 27 Sunny
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High Temperature: 46 Low Temperature: 35 Chance of Rain: 0% Sunrise: 6:56am Sunset: 4:31pm Moon phase: 71% visible
SUNDAY November 28 Sunny
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High Temperature: 49 Low Temperature: 35 Chance of Rain: 10% Sunrise: 6:58am Sunset: 4:31pm Moon phase: 61% visible
Project Manager Dan Mathers Assistant Editor Jon Roth
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F THIS is the first time you have set eyes on this publication, welcome! We hope you will enjoy our richly flavored mix of words and photographs, all of which is intended to inform you about the wonderful things to eat and drink and visit in Brooklyn... and then inspire you to go and support the artisans and vendors who produce and sell this borough’s bounty in the best way possible! By the way, if you caught last week’s issue (our first ever), we’re delighted to have you back. Whether you are a new or returning reader, here’s a snapshot of what’s in this issue: there are tasty things to try in the borough this weekend (pages 4 and 5); an events guide that will have you salivating (page 7); recipes for pie crust, bread, fondue, pork schnitzel and collard greens; a mouth-watering walk around Brooklyn with local restaurant pioneer Saul Bolton (page 15); the fascinating story of the Foffe restaurant family from the folks at the Brooklyn Public Library (page 19); an interview with the man behind the bar at Sycamore (page 37)... and photographic coverage of events from pie bake-offs to flea markets and benefit dinners. It all adds up to one thing – a celebration of Brooklyn’s diverse food culture... the people who produce the goods, and the people who enjoy them. That’s what makes Brooklyn Bread different from any publication you’ve ever seen. Enjoy the issue. Enjoy Brooklyn. Danielle Franca Swift & Jack Wright
Contributing Editor Jason Greenberg Illustrator Liza Corsillo Distribution Catherine Barreda Advertising Sales Erica Izenberg Jen Messier Contributors Stella Dixon, Emily Elsen, Melissa Elsen, Cathy Erway, Sara Franklin, Joy Holland, Sarah McColl, Annie Novak, Laura Nuter Photographers Jen Campbell, Sara Heidinger, Justin Nunnink, Lawrence Sumulong, John Suscovich, Allen Ying Brooklyn Bread is published every Thursday by Brooklyn Bread Press P.O. Box 150026 Brooklyn, NY 11215 (917) 740-1072 www.brooklynbreadpress.com Printed on recycled paper using soy-based inks.
Thursday, November 25, 2010
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Inside This Issue
A smorgasbord of photographs, advice, wisdom and wit! Things To Try This Weekend 4-5 How about a couple days filled with treats both inspiring and indulgent?
The Events Guide 7 Plenty of ways to enjoy yourself in the week ahead.
Humble Pie 8 The art of baking crust, by the girls at Four and Twenty Blackbirds.
The Cheese Report 8 Laura Nuter has some irresistible fondue recipes.
Eagle Street Rooftop Farm’s Giving Thanks Dinner Held at the Brooklyn Kitchen p6-12
Our Favorite Things 9 Places to drink coffee, enjoy breakfast, eat cake, and throw back a nightcap.
A Lily And A Loaf Of Bread 11 Sarah McColl reports on an inspiring new business idea.
Try This At Home! 13 Cathy Erway shows us how to enjoy the best food around... in our own homes.
A Perfect Day In Brooklyn 15
Second Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake-Off It’s a tough job, but someone had to judge it p14-24
Join Saul Bolton of Saul Restaurant as he enjoys a day to remember.
Adopt An Animal 17 Two gorgeous dogs and one cute cat need a home. Can you help?
Edible History Of Brooklyn 19 The fascinating story behind Maison Foffe in Brooklyn Heights.
From Soil To Plate 23 Sara Franklin on how to make collard greens sexy again.
Kings County General Store At Southpaw Artisans peddle their lovely wares, and you get to enjoy them p28-34
The Big Picture 32 Pies. A lot of pies. At the second annual Brooklyn benefit bake-off.
Confessions Of A Waitress 35 An illuminating, charming look into the life of a server, by Stella Dixon.
Bartender Of The Week 37 Andy Zimmerman on life at Sycamore.
Brooklyn Bread Rate Card 39
First Annual Hattie Carthan Market Farmy Folks Soirée
Everything you need to know!
Featuring locally-produced wines, breads and other goodies p36-38
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Thursday, November 25, 2010
Tasty Things To Try This Weekend
Your fun guide to some serious eating in the wonderful borough of Brooklyn... by Jason Greenberg Sunday Suppers At Lot 2 Every Sunday evening starting at 6pm, Lot 2 in Greenwood Heights offers a four-course family-style meal for $25 ($12 for kids) that changes weekly. According to the restaurant, it’s a chance to “slow down, eat simply and appreciate the people and things we value most.” Recent dishes have included ciderbraised chicken, heritage roast pork loin with brown butter apple sauce and gingerbread ice box cake with whisky-cream cheese frosting. Stop in to join what is quickly becoming a neighborhood tradition. 687 6th Avenue, 718499-5623, lot2restaurant.com.
Sundae Of Broken Dreams At Brooklyn Farmacy & Soda Fountain Stepping into Brooklyn Farmacy is to step back in time, into a Norman Rockwell moment of Americana. Peter Freeman took over this abandoned former pharmacy on the corner of Sackett and Henry and with help from the Discovery Channel’s Construction Intervention opened this old-fashioned soda fountain and ice cream shop. Behind the bar, soda jerks prepare childhood favorites like milk shakes, sundaes, floats and of course egg creams. It’s also part-country store – the walls are lined with local products and the flavors change seasonally. One mainstay is the Sundae of Broken Dreams: Adirondack Creamery’s vanilla ice cream, broken pretzels, warm caramel sauce and whipped cream. A sundae that transports you to wherever your happy place might be. 513 Henry Street, 718, 522-6260, brooklynfarmacy. blogspot.com.
Dumplings At The Good Fork Located in an unassuming building, on the sometimes desolate Van Brunt Street, the Good Fork has been bringing diners to Red Hook since 2006. Husband-andwife team Ben Schneider and Sohui Kim offer their accessible menu full of comfort foods like homemade pappardelle with lamb ragu, or roasted brussels sprouts with poached egg and serrano ham. But it was the Korean-influenced items on the menu that got nationwide attention. When Bobby Flay challenged their beloved dumpling to a throwdown, and lost, people took notice. The dumplings are famous for a reason. The light airy wrapper and the perfect pork and chive filling combine to create something special. 391 Van Brunt Street, 718- 643-6636, goodfork.com.
Cheers! Urban Oyster’s Fermented Craft Beer Crawl happens every Saturday. Photograph from urbanoyster.com
Irresistible: There’s a reason the Good Fork’s dumplings have become nationally famous. Try them.
Urban Oyster’s Fermented NY Craft Beer Crawl On Saturday afternoons throughout the year, Urban Oyster walking tours features a craft beer crawl through Williamsburg. The approximately three-hour tour begins at Mugs’ Ale House, at 125 Bedford Avenue, and continues to a variety of craft beer bars as well as a brewery and a beer store. Tickets for the event must be purchased in advance for $55 and includes at least 10 beer tastings (which seems about right), “substantial” food to help absorb the alcohol, a beer tasting guide sheet, and a tour guide with maps. www.urbanoyster.com.
Smoked Meat Sandwich At Mile End A native of Montreal, Noah Bernamoff moved to New York to go to law school. He wound up dropping out and opening a Montreal style Jewish deli in Boerum Hill, and we should all be thankful. Although the short menu features the requisite (and delicious) matzoh ball soup, Montreal staple poutine and house-made salami (blended from a custom blend of brisket and short rib from Pat LaFrieda) the star of the show is the smoked meat sandwich. Smoked meat is essentially the Canadian version of pastrami. Piled on top of Orwasher’s rye and slathered with mustard, it satisfies on the
Thursday, November 25, 2010
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There are many reasons to visit Brooklyn Farmacy & Soda Fountain, but the best one might be the Sundae of Broken Dreams. Photograph by Justin Nunnink
deepest levels and redefines the deli sandwich altogether. 97A Hoyt Street, 718-852-7510.
McClure’s Spicy Bloody Mary Mix Inspired by their great grandmother’s recipe, the McClure family began making pickles in 2006. In addition to their pickles and relish they now also offer a delicious spicy bloody mary mix. Using their spicy pickle brine, tomato paste, fresh cucumber juice and other fresh and local ingredients, their bloody mary mix may have you brunching at home more often. Mixed with vodka and garnished with a McClure’s pickle, it’s a pretty mean bloody mary. mcclurespickles.com.
closely guarded burger recipe has been in his family for generations and is one very good reason to stop into Dram Shop. Along with a constantly changing beer menu, extensive whiskeys and bourbon, their excellent, albeit messy, burger may be one of the best in Brooklyn. Two thin square beef patties, piled high with shredded lettuce, tomato, pickles, mayo, mustard and melted American cheese on a sesame seed bun, it’s essentially a Big Mac done right. Each burger will cost you $10. And since each burger is accompanied by crispy hand-cut fries, it’s also one of the borough’s best deals. 339 9th Street, 718-7881444, dramshopbrooklyn.com.
Gatorita At The Levee The perfect answer to the fancy cocktail trend, has to be the Levee’s Gatorita. Made with lemon-lime Gatorade and tequila it might be the most surprisingly perfect combination. Refreshing and unlike most margaritas, not too sweet, the Gatorita is a great alternative to your PBRs. But don’t be fooled by the Gatorade, there is still plenty of tequila in each one. 212 Berry Street, 718-2188787, theleveenyc.com. On Sunday evenings, Lot 2 offer family-style dinners that are high on value and taste. Photograph by Justin Nunnink
Burger at Dram Shop Bar Dram Shop Bar partner Clay Mallows’
The burger at the Dram Shop Bar is one of the best in Brooklyn – the whiskeys and bourbons are great, too! Photograph from www.dapperscout.com
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bicycle station
Bicycle Station
Thursday, November 25, 2010
Eagle Street Rooftop Farm Giving Thanks Dinner Saturday, November 20 at Brooklyn Kitchen PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLEN YING
“The Bicycle Station is a godsend for cyclists...” Time Out New York
Han Hung, Everett Sanderson, Toby Adams, Eric Sanderson
TUNE-UPS v REPAIRS RESTORATIONS v SALES Owner Mike has more than 30 years of experience in bike maintenance and care We are open through the fall and winter and offer excellent prices for off-season sales and repairs
Brian Cicero, Vera Fabian, Gordon Jenkins, Annie Hauck-Lawson, Alana Lawson
$45 TUNE-UPS! Get your bike tuned up and be ready to ride this spring 171 Park Avenue, corner of Adelphi 1 block from Flushing Avenue (718) 638-0300 bicycylestationbrooklyn.com
Camille Valdes, Brian Moroz, Pamela Eng, Jessica Austerlitz, Sean Weiss, Stefanie Mohr, Matthew Craig
Thursday, November 25, 2010
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The Brooklyn Food & Drink Events Guide ’Tis just about the time to indulge yourselves... here are some tips
11/30 EAT/ART: Atlantic Gallery Holiday Art Show Benefiting Just Food A food-focused art exhibition celebrating food that nourishes both people and the planet – 10% of the proceeds from all purchases will be donated to Just Food. Atlantic Gallery, 135 West 29th, Suite 601, Manhattan, 212 219-3183, atlanticgallery.org,justfood.org.
11/30 Chili Season At Char No. 4 Your bourbon-and-barbecue HQ Char No. 4 is offering a Tuesday night chili extravaganza. For $22, enjoy a bowl of smoked short rib and pork shoulder chili, with baconjalapeño corn bread and honey butter. Add to that a complimentary beer-and-whiskey combo that changes each week and you really do have something of beauty. Char No. 4, 196 Smith Street, Carroll Gardens, 718-6432106, charno4.com.
11/30 Piglet Party 2010: Celebrating The Second Annual Tournament Of Cookbooks Hosted by Charlotte Druckman and food52 co-founders Amanda Hesser and Merrill Stubbs. Come raise a glass with authors and judges as you sample fare from local vendors such as Van Leeuwen, Rick’s Picks, Dorie Greenspan, Liddabit Sweets, Mexicue, Nuts + Nuts, Theo Peck, Salumeria Rosi, June Taylor, Lucy’s Whey and Lush at this event celebrating the culmination of this year’s tournament. There will be wine from Hanna Winery and beer from Kelso of Brooklyn, as well as a special Piglet cocktail! 92Y Tribeca, 200 Hudson Street, Tribeca, http://www.food52. com. For more info, visit brownpapertickets.com.
11/30 Pot Pies At Ger-Nis Culinary & Herb Center Nothing says winter quite like warm root vegetables and seasonal spices wrapped in a fresh pastry crust the way that pot pies do. Warming you up from the inside out, pot pies embody the feeling of comfort and coziness. Come get cozy with the folks at Ger-Nis while they whip up this classic pie and experiment with new approaches to the traditional. You can forget the regular typical crust business – these guys get creative and experiment with other varieties. Step in from the cold, take your boots off, and we can all warm up the right way together – in the kitchen. Here are the treats you will enjoy this coming Tuesday: shepherd’s pie, chicken and potato curry pot pie, pear pot pie, turkey
Is there a dish more homey AND alluring than pot pie? Get along to Ger-Nis on November 30 for a pie extravaganza.
pot pie with herb cheddar in a biscuit crust, moroccan chicken curry pot pie with puff pastry, kale and sausage apple pot pie. We are SO there! From 6:30pm to 9:30pm at Ger-Nis Culinary & Herb Center, 540 President Street Suite 2E, Gowanus, 347-422-0337, ger-nis.com.
12/1 Take A Class At The Brooklyn Botanical Gardens This Winter! Classes include Rooftop Gardening, Urban Garden Design, Plant Propagation to Composting in the City. Registration begins on December 1 – go on, try a new fork in the road! Get out of your comfort zone. For more information, contact Brooklyn Botantic Garden, 1000 Washington Avenue, 718-623-7200, Prospect Heights, bbg.org/learn/classes.
12/1 Louisiana Style Peel & Eat Shrimp Boil: A Gulf Seafood Celebration at Goods Around 150 chefs and restaurateurs across the country will let people know that Gulf seafood is not only safe to eat, but just as amazing as ever! As part of this Dine America/Dine Louisiana event, chef Alex McCrery and the Goods team will be supporting Louisiana fisherman with a special menu. From 6:30pm to 9:30pm at Goods, 571 Lorimer Street, Williamsburg, 347-763-1622, goodsfood.com. For more ticket information, visit brownpapertickets.com.
12/2 Wreath-Making At Sprout Home Learn how to create and decorate your own unique custom wreath using a variety of holiday greens, branches, berries, birds, and other items to personalize your wreath. Materials fee is estimated at $35 to $75 (based on your selections) and pays for a small wreath you make and take home. From 6pm to 7pm at Sprout Home, 44 Grand Street, Williamsburg, 718-388-4440.
12/5 The Greenpoint Gala: An Afternoon At Dressler For Greenpoint Soup Kitchen Great food, great cause – is there anything better in life? Gala tickets are $100 and include first-class food and drinks at the renowned Dressler restaurant. All proceeds go to the food program. The Greenpoint Gala, however, is about more than a warm moment. There is real need. When the food program opened in 2008, it distributed about 30 bags of groceries a week. Now it distributes more than 400 bags. Every Wednesday, the soup kitchen serves a hot meal to between 60-80 people. Over the summer, the line of people waiting for food stretched from inside the building, across the lawn and down the sidewalk for more than 100 feet. The event is from 3:30pm to 6:30pm at Dressler, 149 Broadway, Williamsburg, 718-389-3831, dresslernyc.com. For ticket information, visit brownpapertickets.com.
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Humble Pie
By Emily and Melissa Elsen, of Four and Twenty Blackbirds, 439 3rd Avenue, Gowanus
W
HEN you’ve got to make a lot of pies, you’ll want to be efficient, and what better way than to make a lot of crust at once? The recipe we make by hand in the shop day every day is enough to make four custard pies, or two lattice-topped fruit pies. Use it for Thanksgiving and even if you make only one pie, you’ll have extra crust in the freezer for your next baking session – might we suggest a Thanksgiving leftover pot pie!? Mmmmm. Makes enough dough for two double-crusted pies, or four custard pies. 1lb of unsalted butter, good quality, very cold, chopped into 1/2” pieces 5 cups all-purpose unbleached flour 1/4 cup of sugar 1 tablespoon salt 1 cup (or more if needed) ice water with 3-4 tablespoons cider vinegar incorporated Blend flour, salt and sugar together in a large, flat bottomed bowl. Add the butter pieces and coat with flour using a bench scraper or cool hands. With a pastry blender, cut the butter into the flour, working quickly until mostly pea-sized pieces of butter remain (a few larger pieces are okay, but be careful not to overblend). Sprinkle half a cup of the ice water over the flour mixture, turn and mix with cool hands or bench scraper. When the water is fully incorporated, add the other half cup of water, and mix
until dough comes together in a ball, with some dry bits remaining. Squeeze gently with your hands to bring all the dough together, sprinkling dry bits with more drops of ice water if necessary to combine. Divide dough in half, and half again and shape into four slightly flat discs, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least an hour, preferably overnight to give the crust time to chill and mellow. Dough, wrapped tightly, can be refrigerated for three days or frozen for one month.
Cheese Report
By Laura Nuter, of Grab Specialty Foods, 438 7th Avenue, Park Slope
Y
ES, I realize you’re still just thinking about loosening your belt a notch or two with Thanksgiving less than 24 hours away (depending on when you’re reading this), but it’s never too early to begin contemplating fondue season. While this is perhaps akin to spotting Christmas decorations in Macy’s around Halloween, and with all this “global-like warming” it may seem a bit premature to think about hot-n-steamy cheese... I assure you it’s never too soon! So here are some fondues and fon-don’ts... EQUIPMENT Having the right equipment in life is essential, and this applies to fondue pots as well. While there are many varieties that will do the job, Swissmar provides some of the most durable, stylish and reasonably priced options on the market. If you’re going down this road... do it in style.
Thursday, November 25, 2010
INGREDIENTS A famous chef once told me, “If you want mediocre food, use mediocre ingredients.” I found this to be a true statement, so I suggest you avoid using the various cheese stragglers that have been lingering in your fridge for weeks when trying to impress your guests. Instead, head to your favorite local cheese establishment and have it cut for you that day. QUANTITY Plan for one third to one half pound of cheese per person. While this may seem excessive, don’t skimp or you’ll likely come up short, leaving your guests wondering if you really know what you’re doing in the kitchen. RECIPE FOR 6 (prep time 20 minutes, cook time 15 minutes, threequart fondue pot) 1 garlic clove (lightly crushed) 1 1/2 cups dry Alsatian Riesling 1 Tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 lb cave aged Gruyere 1 lb Comté 3/4 lb Scharfe Maxx 1 Tablespoon corn starch Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste DIRECTIONS Remove the rinds of the cheese and coarsely grate into a large bowl, toss with corn starch and set aside. Rub the crushed garlic on the inside of the fondue pot, covering the entire surface – then discard garlic. Over medium heat, add wine and lemon juice together in the fondue pot and bring to a simmer. Add a handful of the cheese to the simmering wine and lemon juice and whisk until the cheese has completely melted. Add another handful and continue until all the cheese has melted. Reduce heat to low and season with salt and pepper, stir while simmering for another minute. Remove from heat and serve with the following options: Crusty baguette cubed Seared beef tenderloin tips Boiled fingerling potatoes Boiled cauliflower Cornichons
Good Bread
French Bread with Kalamata Olives and Thyme, from Bon Appétit 1 cup milk 2 teaspoons butter 2 teaspoons sugar 1 cup water 2 teaspoons active dry yeast for do-ahead version or quick-rising dry yeast for same-day version 3/4 cup chopped Kalamata olives 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme 2 teaspoons salt 4 cups all purpose flour Olive oil 1 egg white, beaten to blend Bring milk to simmer. Add butter and sugar; stir until butter melts. Pour mixture into large bowl. Add 1 cup water and cool mixture until lukewarm. Add yeast; blend. Add olives, thyme and salt. Add 1 cup flour. Stir until flour is incorporated. Add 3 cups flour, 1 cup at a time, and stir with wood spoon until incorporated. If needed, add up to 1/2 cup flour until dough is smooth and pulls away from sides of bowl. Oil large bowl. Transfer dough to bowl; coat with oil. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. For do-ahead version, chill dough overnight. For same-day, let dough rise in warm area until doubled in volume (45 minutes). Preheat to 500°F. Oil large baking sheet. Divide dough into 2 equal pieces. Form each piece into baguette 15” x 2 ¼” x 2 ½”. Transfer to baking sheet and cover. Let rise in warm area until slightly puffed (30 minutes for refrigerated dough, 15 for room temperature). Brush top of each loaf with egg white. Spray inside of oven with water; immediately place loaves in oven. Bake 10 minutes. Reduce to 400°F and bake until loaves are deep golden, about 35 minutes. Cool on rack.
Thursday, November 25, 2010
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Our Favorite Places To... Drink coffee, eat breakfast, eat cake, and enjoy a nightcap
MINA SOLIMAN, 37, event coordinator, Fort Greene «Drink coffee: My local deli «Eat breakfast: Roebling Tea Room, Williamsburg «Eat cake: Madiba Restaurant, Fort Greene «Enjoy a nightcap: Dino, Fort Greene
C.D. HAPPLE, 63, elementary school teacher, Seattle «Drink coffee: Choice Market «Eat breakfast: Olea, Fort Greene «Eat cake: Choice Market «Enjoy a nightcap: I don’t
CARLOS PRIETO, 45, psychologist, Park Slope «Drink coffee: Prospect Perk «Eat breakfast: Street fruit vendors «Eat cake: I don’t «Enjoy a nightcap: I don’t
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
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Thursday, November 25, 2010
Eagle Street Rooftop Farm Giving Thanks Dinner Saturday, November 20 at Brooklyn Kitchen
Mary Cleaver, Emma Hollister
Adriana Jovanović
Danielle Gould, Erica Tunick, and a strange root
Tony Argento, Rose Moura, Amy Trachtman, Kimberly Guinta
Ericka Martins, Colombe Jacobsen
Neil Despres, Meg Paska, Stacey Murphy
Sarah Graves, Sam Cohen, Heather deKoning, John Foley
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLEN YING... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
BROOKLYN BREAD
Thursday, November 25, 2010
Page 11
A Lily And A Loaf Of Bread
I
Two woman, one dream... by Sarah McColl
T IS a Tuesday night on a leafy side street in Prospect Heights, and people from Park Slope are asking if the housing stock north of Flatbush is filled with more apartments like this one. The kitchen, wide enough for a farmhouse table, looks out on the street through a window, while the rooms, each crowned with molding, lead railroad-style into a backyard strung with fairy lights. And in that enviable kitchen, two women wearing aprons and heels pass behind each other in a practiced and well-orchestrated dance as impressive as the apartment itself. They pull baking sheets from the oven, pop the freezer open to fetch Ziploc bags of pork and tofu dumplings, stir a Crock-pot filled with meatballs. They are Natalie Hoch, the lucky tenant, and her friend, Casey Barber – the women are founders of Baked & Bottled, a specialty foods company that makes homemade goods and delivers them to your door. Sort of like “home chef meets Fresh Direct,” explains Casey, running a hand through her short hair and leaving a tuft of it standing
on end in a charming way. She looks a little frazzled, but also flushed, pink-cheeked and proud. This evening has been many months of business and public relations plans – to say nothing of afternoons spent rolling meatballs side by side – in the making. This past spring, the two kvetched over lunch about their unfulfilling jobs. They started imagining ways to shape their careers around things they felt fired up about. Like eating. “We knew we wanted to work in food but not on a restaurant line or in a catering business. We wanted to do something on our own terms and our own time,” Natalie and Casey explained in an email. They realized they were dreaming up the same thing. Aside from sizing up the apartment, the guests at Baked & Bottled’s first-ever tasting
party are talking about the gumption and cando spirit of starting a fledgling food business in this crappy economy. Both partners have other jobs, but it’s clear their passion for food and the spark of an entrepreneurial idea between friends keeps them jazzed and focused. The unpretentious, homey spread is the result of two treasure troves of family recipes. A woman from Florida declares the ranch dressing the best she’s ever had, which, Mason-Dixon line or no, is really saying something. A group hovers around the pretzel rolls while a newlywed details her wedding gift haul while forking hand-rolled orecchiette. A woman from Texas (let’s call her me) can’t get enough of the gougeres or chocolate chip cookies flaked with sea salt. At the end of the night, Casey collapses into a chair, her heels still on, that tuft of hair still awry. Later, she reports the evening was a hit. So much so that two good friends got engaged immediately following a take-home dumpling dinner. The dumplings might not have sealed the deal, but they didn’t hurt.
A new indoor farmers’ market. Sundays, 11–5. Year-round.
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Thursday, November 25, 2010
Eagle Street Rooftop Farm Giving Thanks Dinner Saturday, November 20 at Brooklyn Kitchen
Greg Smith, Liz Kowalczyk
Dan D’Ippolito, Heather Dickison
Stacey Murphy, Natsuko
Spencer Adler, Hector Tejada
Leonard Lopate, Melanie Baker
Dan Crowell, Jenine Osbon
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLEN YING... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Copies of this magazine get snapped up fast... But do NOT panic, dear reader. If you cannot find a copy of Brooklyn Bread at your favorite food and drink establishment, book shop or other fine store, you can read every single page of Brooklyn Bread online.
Just visit brooklynbreadpress.com
BROOKLYN BREAD
Thursday, November 25, 2010
Page 13
Try This At Home!
Inspired by Brooklyn’s finest culinary creations, Cathy Erway tries them out in her own kitchen Pork Schnitzel with German Potato Salad, inspired by Prime Meats
I
’M FAR from the first one to say it, but Prime Meats is good. You’ll be hard pressed to find anything that isn’t prepared with finesse and flavor at this crowded Carroll Gardens restaurant. The hard part is actually getting a seat there; an hour’s wait for weekend dinners is de rigeuer, and sorry, no reservations. But if you’re more about the food than the fashionable atmosphere, you can whip up this popular menu item in less time at home. The restaurant’s theme is German food, and maybe you’ve had something resembling schnitzel here and there due to our (heavily German-influenced) American food traditions. But the warm, vinegary and baconflecked German potato salad kicks ass, and that’s something we seem to have muddled up with too much mayonnaise. I was able to grab Prime Meats’ head chef, Willie Prunty, for cues on how to make the schnitzel – essentially, a breaded cut of boneless meat. Turns out, he uses what’s available: the breadcrumbs they coat their pork loin cutlets with are made from the day-old kaiser rolls also sold there. You can get these at the Prime Meats Delicatessen around the corner of the restaurant on Luquer Street. Then again, you can also make fresh breadcrumbs with whatever leftover bread you may have on hand, in keeping with the tradition. Pork loin is usually the most tough, least fatty cut of the pig, but it’s tender and succulent when quickly pan-fried this way. The potato salad is a tangy side to serve along with it, and it can be made a day ahead. To get both the pork loin and the bacon for this dish, I hit up the Union Square Greenmarket on Wednesday to visit Tamarack Hollow Farms’ stand, which had both. Flying Pigs Farms is another good source at Union Square and Grand Army Plaza on Saturdays. They’re prime meats, for sure. A few tables down, Berried Treasures’ farmstand had its usual variety of about 18 different types of potatoes, and I picked up some small French fingerlings for the salad. It might be more traditional to go with plain yellow onions in this dish, instead of scallions or leeks, but I went for the greener allium, to give the salad more color. A grainy, spicy mustard adds a little more color and a pleasant kick, along with the vinegar. A dollop of My Friend’s Mustard (Brooklynmade artisanal mustard with Sixpoint Craft
Prime Meats chef Willie Prunty’s pork schnitzel was the inspiration for this recipe, although we should say that the picture above is not his recipe, just in case he takes exception.
Ales beer) fit the bill perfectly. If you’ve ever breaded a piece of meat, whether it be chicken-fried steak or pork chops, this is second nature. Be sure to add a sprinkle of fresh parsley as a finishing touch to the salad and the meat. It’s the only spice the poor Germans have a taste for, it seems. Pork Schnitzel and German Potato Salad (makes two servings) 2 boneless pork loin cutlets, ½ lb total 1 cup fresh breadcrumbs (can be made with stale bread pulsed in a processor) 1 egg 1/3 cup water ¼ cup all-purpose flour 1 lb fingerling potatoes 1 large leek, white part and inner pale green parts only, sliced 1/8 lb slab bacon, cut to slivers 1/3 cup white vinegar 1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard salt and pepper extra-virgin olive oil 1 lemon, cut to wedges chopped fresh parsley, for garnish Make the potato salad: Boil the potatoes until tender. Slice into 1/8”-1/4” rounds. Heat a large, wide chef’s pan over medium-high heat and cook the bacon for about two minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the leeks and cook over medium until softened, stirring, about five minutes. Add the potatoes and season well with salt and pepper. Combine the
vinegar and mustard in a bowl and pour into the pan. Remove from heat and toss well. Add a sprinkle of the parsley and let sit, covered, for at least 20 minutes (or up to overnight). Make the schnitzel: Pat pork cutlets dry with paper towels. Season with salt and pepper on both sides. Space them apart on a cutting board and place a sheet of plastic wrap on top of both. Using a meat tenderizer (or, for lack of one, a cautious hand with a hammer), pat the cutlets gently from the center to the edges until slightly flattened. (Don’t go crazy, they don’t have to be paper-thin.) Place flour on a flat plate. Beat the egg with the 1/3 cup of water and place in a bowl. Place breadcrumbs on another plate and mix with generous pinches of salt and pepper. Coat each pork cutlet in flour on both sides, and shake off any excess. Coat them in the egg wash. Transfer to the bowl with the breadcrumbs and coat each side evenly. Shake off any excess. Heat a heavy-bottomed stainless steel or cast-iron pan and add 2-3 tablespoons olive oil. Place each cutlet down in the sizzling oil and don’t touch for a minute or two. Check to see if the bottoms are golden brown; if they are, flip over, and reduce heat to medium. Cook on opposite side another 2-3 minutes. Serve alongside the potato salad and garnish with parsley and lemon wedges on each plate. Cathy Erway is the author of The Art Of Eating In, published by Gotham Books, and of the blog Not Eating Out In New York (www.noteatingoutinny.com). She hosts the weekly radio show, Let’s Eat In, on Heritage Radio Network.
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Thursday, November 25, 2010
Second Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake-Off Benefit Sunday, November 14 at Spacecraft in Williamsburg PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH
Allison Kave (owner), Glenn Robinson (event organizer), Cristina Dodd (judge)
David Ash, Kim Ash (baked a pie), Karen Ash
James Dooley, Naomi Dimon, Ben Speyer
Thursday, November 25, 2010
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My Perfect Brooklyn Day
Baseball in the park, world-class pastries and a family dinner to remember... some of Saul Bolton’s favorite things
I
LOVE Brooklyn with all my heart. I’ve resided here longer, 15 years, than anywhere else. My family and I live in the Prospect Lefferts section of Brooklyn right off of Flatbush Avenue between Ocean Parkway and Parkside – a stone’s throw away from the Brooklyn Botanical. The spirit of Dennis Brown rests at the end of my block. The Dollar Vans patrol Flatbush Avenue from downtown to Kings Plaza more carefully than big brother ever could. Hot nights on my block are punctuated by the smells of jerk chicken and ganja and refreshing tofu ice cream cones from Scoops (cookies and cream for my younger son Theo). But it’s warm even in the winter. Everybody knows everybody. My perfect Brooklyn day begins with a recall of the sweet dreams from the night before. My wife Lisa is already up and out with Mary Quandt and her boot camp buddies in Prospect Park – from 6am to 8am. They break camp at the Grand Army Plaza Farmers Market, kibbutzing with the legendary Ray Bradley of Bradley Farms – more kale for that famous kale salad. After that they stroll down to our favorite strong coffee shop, Gorrilla, where they chill and talk. Meanwhile my older son dons the Brooklyn youth baseball club’s badass uniforms. The Brooklyn Bonnies – 48 years of excellence. The Bonnies rule the baseball diamonds of the parade grounds with teams ranging from pee-wees to 19 and 21-year-olds. That leaves my younger son Theo and myself up to our own devices. Off to DUMBO we go, anticipating the very best pain au chocolat in NYC at Almondine, where the baker/ owner Herve also makes the best baguette in the city in my eyes. Theo and I grab two for dinner. Or lunch. We eat the pastry before we have even left the store and proceed to eat the baguettes as we walk along the waterside park, marveling at the water, skyline and the array of beautiful and interesting people and dogs. As we skirt the water, heading toward Red Hook, I think of whoopie pies from Baked but we take a hard left on Union, passing Ferdinando’s Focacceria, crossing over the BQE, past Mazzola Bakery, on to Court Street, where we stop at Caputo’s to buy fresh mozzarella. It’s around 11am and instinctually we pass by Saul to say good day to Lupe – he’s moving in his usual Zen-like fashion, always thoughtful and with purpose. He debriefs Theo. After the debriefing we work our way home, stopping by the Vanderbilt, in Prospect Heights, to check in with the crew. The brunch crowd is hap-
Saul Bolton opened Saul Restaurant with his wife Lisa on Smith Street in 1999. It was at the forefront of the Brooklyn food movement, and continues to impress, 11 years later. Photograph by Allen Ying
pily buzzing, customers sitting outside along Bergen Street or enjoying the breeze coming through the windows – beignet pastries and Stumptown’s El Injerto coffee. Yum. Theo and I check out and work our way back home. Lisa is working in the garden, tending her lettuce patch, which we utilize at Saul. I change into my running shorts, Theo rolls out his bike and off we go to Prospect Park – once around for me and twice for him. The park is a blessing – you feel as though you have left the urban cityscape. But watch out for cyclists. Back at the house we shower, eat a little mozzarella then the three of us put on our walking shoes and start down Flatbush, right on parkside and down to the parade grounds to watch my older son Miles team play the second half of a double-header against their arch rival, Youth Service. The proceedings are always cool – high-quality youth baseball, trash talk, ball hitting bat, the umpire proclaiming a strike, the coaches screaming in protest, the teams chanting and singing fight songs that are syncopated
to merengue and bachata. It’s an American baseball experience like no other. Three outs. Game over. We’re outta there! Walking back home we recount the game. On Flatbush we pass Errol’s Bakery, which has the best cheese and beef patties in the city. Truth. Early evening is here and we decide to walk to our favorite family spot – meaning everybody in our family loves it. We always go early cause that’s the only time you can walk in. Al Di La Trattoria is our favorite restaurant in Brooklyn, and has been for at least 10 years. Not many places can do it like Anna Klinger and her husband, Emiliano Coppa, have year after year. Strong folk. Years come and go, trends start and fade. Al Di La rocks night after night, year after year. Whoa! Great staff, ambience, and great food. On our way home back through the park, the lights reflecting on the pond by the Audubon Center, I think I’m pretty lucky. Back home we relax and get ready for the next day. A perfect day, not unlike reality. One tiny part of Brooklyn, the greatest borough in the world.
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Thursday, November 25, 2010
Second Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake-Off Benefit Sunday, November 14 at Spacecraft in Williamsburg
Barbara No, Urena Howard
Talisa Chang, Veronica Chan
Anne Hamby, Ania Tomaszewicz
Lindsey Machicote, Adam Beck
Heather Kumer, Taylor Naughton
Ashley Muscarelle, Kristin Wilkos
Catherine Neckes, Elizabeth Neckes
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
fresh pastries artisanal breads desserts custom cakes
A café firmly in the “Great European tradition”, “serving NY’s best coffee” in the “most articulate space around” – according to its cult following of creative directors and writers.
Café Regular
318a 11th Street, Brooklyn Sun-Wed 7am-7pm Thu-Sat 7am-8pm
Café Regular du Nord 158a Berkeley Place, Brooklyn Sun-Sat 7am-8pm
448 atlantic avenue, boerum hill 718.246.2402 bettybakery.com Tue-Fri 7:30-7 Sat 9-7 Sun 11-5
Thursday, November 25, 2010
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Enrich Your Life... Adopt An Animal
Three beautiful creatures need loving homes... call BARC at 718-486-7489 or email info@barcshelter.org
«
HENRY is an adorable little Staffie. He weighs about 37lbs and is fully grown at two. He is sweet, playful and full of energy. He came to us completely untrained. In his short time at the shelter, this people-friendly pup has learned how to sit, heel and is jumping a lot less. This dog is determined to make a great household companion. He plays very roughly with other dogs, and is showing leash reactivity to other dogs on walks.
«
CLEMENTINE is a honey! She loves to play and be petted but she’s not too demanding or in your face. She’s the perfect choice for anyone who wants a quiet, lowkey companion. We also believe she would get along well with other cats. If you would like this delightful little cat in your life, please give us a call or send us an email.
«
LEROY is a great dog, by any measure. He was found as a stray several years ago, was adopted from us and lived with a family for two years. Sadly, some of his needs were neglected, and he ended up being returned to us overweight. Leroy is good with other dogs and children and loves being outside. He is looking great, having lost nearly 20lbs. We think Leroy is about seven but we KNOW he would make a wonderful pal.
your local destination for all sweet treats WE CAN BE FOUND AT BROOKLYN’S WEEKLY ARTISTS & FLEAS MARKET FROM 12-8PM ARTISANAL “SPIRITED” COOKIES AND SEASONAL FRUIT TARTS ARE OUR SPECIALTIES
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Thursday, November 25, 2010
Thursday, November 25, 2010
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An Edible History Of Brooklyn The curious story of the Foffe restaurant family... by Joy Holland
N
O, THIS ghastly tableau doesn’t depict a horrible roadkill incident but, rather, an invitation to dinner. Decades ahead of the current trends of locally-sourced food and organic meats, Alfred Foffe was serving wild game in his tony Brooklyn Heights restaurant, Maison Foffe. These suspended carcasses signal to those in the know that Foffe is back from his annual hunting trip with a menu of fresh-from-thewild animals to serve his customers. The story of the Foffe family’s establishment as Brooklyn restaurant royalty reads like a classic example of the American dream. The widowed head of the family, Maria Foffe, brought her brood of nine fatherless Foffes to the United States from Italy around 1915, first opening a restaurant in Bridgeport, Connecticut. After that failed, the family moved to Brooklyn in 1929. There they had better luck with the opening of Maison Foffe in 1932, at 155 Montague Street. Alfred ran it with his brother, John, and lived in the apartment above the restaurant with his mother until her death in 1949. The spot started out as a tea room, but expanded to become, said the Brooklyn Daily Eagle, “the equivalent of many of the Eastside Manhattan class spots” by 1948. Other Foffe offspring prospered in the restaurant business, setting up a satellite kingdom in Bay Ridge with Foffe’s Restaurant and the Vanity Fair nightclub and banquet hall. The tradition of the annual venison dinner at Maison Foffe dates back to 1938, when Alfred and John enjoyed an autumnal hunting expedition in Putnam County and brought
back enough meat to serve more than 200 “lovers of game.” Although the feast was suspended during World War II, when Alfred enlisted in the army, the Foffes were again bagging winged and hoofed delicacies for their patrons by 1949. Aside from this special feast, the restaurant maintained an adventurous menu, including “Scotch grouse, mallard duck, pheasant, frog legs, pompano, Canadian brook trout, chateaubriand, and the like. Appetizers include such delicacies as eel in wine, and in the dessert field there are crepes suzette and cherries jubilee.” That breathless account came from Al Salerno, the Brooklyn Daily Eagle’s “Night Life”
columnist and a personal friend and ardent fan of the Foffe family. Throughout the 1940s and 1950s, Salerno devoted countless lines of copy to praising the various Foffe enterprises. Salerno accompanied Alfred on one of his hunting trips, lamenting in one column that “for a few days, I gave up night life for wild life.” Sadly – or happily, depending on your point of view – Maison Foffe no longer graces Montague Street with the fresh corpses of New York’s bestiary. Alfred Foffe died in 1984 and the restaurant closed in the years following. The spot is now occupied by a hair salon. An Edible History of Brooklyn is published in partnership with Brooklyn Public Library.
“In a café-crazed town, Iris is one of a kind.” “Best Café” in 2010 “Best of New York” issue, New York magazine Stumptown coffee ¯ Pastries, cookies and biscuits, all baked in-house All-day breakfast classics ¯ Sandwiches ¯ Salads For full menu and more details, visit us online at www.iriscafenyc.com 20 Columbia Place, b/w State & Joralemon | Brooklyn Heights | 718-722-7395 No computers or iPads please – take some time out from the real world!
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BROOKLYN BREAD
Thursday, November 25, 2010
Second Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake-Off Benefit Sunday, November 14 at Spacecraft in Williamsburg PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH
Anna Hui, Adam Santo
Will True, Charlie Mirisola
Kush Goojha, Kiran Goojha
Kevin Sauer, Canoace Maoonna
Alison Govelitz, Alex Hilhorst
Joe Chapman, Mike Quinn
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Thursday, November 25, 2010
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Four & Twenty Blackbirds
This must be where pies go when they die Four & Twenty Blackbirds 439 3rd Avenue at 8th Street Gowanus, Brooklyn www.birdsblack.com
Pie by the slice in the shop, whole pies are made to order. Please call to order: tel 718.499.2917
Closed Mondays Tuesday to Friday: 8am–7pm Saturday: 9am–7pm Sunday: 10am–6pm
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Thursday, November 25, 2010
Second Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake-Off Benefit Sunday, November 14 at Spacecraft in Williamsburg
Tamar Barshad, Amos Barshad, Bill Levy
Haeth Kim, Hae-Joon Kim, Jason Sudik
Laura Leebove, Jime Kwale
Tim Fealey, Amy Malbouf, Genevieve Spies
Jesse Davidson, Annie Wan, Harold Jennings
Nora Woodin, Fiona Brown, Sakura Yagi
Michelle Loayza, Dave P., Michelle Chin, Brian Chin
Drew Moore, Anna Smith, Risa Pearl
Bonnie Lee, Laura Kounine
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Thursday, November 25, 2010
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From Soil To Plate
N
ORTHERNERS have long had an aversion to collard greens. But if there’s one thing for which I give thanks to the revived interest in local food, it’s the growing acceptance of collards on Yankee tables. I’ve been on a southern food kick since returning from New Orleans, where hearty greens are everywhere. But even back home, the elephant ear-esque greens are one of my favorite late season crops, made sweeter by northern frost and even light snow. Their versatility ranges tremendously; whether fried in strips coated with a gleam of oil and toasted garlic, or stewed into submission in soups, cooked into egg dishes or served in the southern New Year’s Day classic, Hoppin’ John, collards can wheedle their way into most any meal year-round. Down in Bensonhurt, at the Growing Leaders Garden at the Expeditionary Learning School for Community Leaders, the collards live in the campus courtyard. Program coordinator Sarah Welch and Americorps volunteer Sonia Alexander said, “Our last crop of
The weekly green report by Sara Franklin the season is our collard greens. We love them because they are hearty enough to bear the colder weather and we can still use them for our cooking classes. If you want to harvest and eat your collards in the late fall you should plant them mid summer, in pretty deep soil – their roots can grow two feet down! “When you are first planting sprinkle the seeds in rows about three feet apart and cover them with just half an inch of soil Eventually the plants should be thinned to be about 18 inches apart.” You can also transplant starts at 12-18’ apart. “Harvest the larger, outer leaves to allow the plant to continue to produce.” The program staff added, “Our amazing teachers are incorporating the gardening program into all of the other class subjects. We just secured another space to garden at our school and are excited to keep growing!” Cut into strips and blanched for 1-3 minutes, then wrung free of most of their water, collards can be placed in freezer bags in portion sizes and frozen for up to a year. Add directly to soups and stews, or defrost for a day in the fridge and then use as you would fresh.
Citrus Collards with Raisin Redux, adapted from former Brooklynite Bryant Terry’s The Vegan Soul Kitchen 2 large bunches collards, ribs removed, cut into thin strips 1 T extra virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced 2/3 cup raisins 1/3 cup fresh orange juice In a large pot, boil water, adding salt at the rolling boil. Add collards and cook, uncovered, for 8-10 minutes. Have a bowl of ice water ready to go. After cooked, remove collards from hot water and plunge into ice water to stop cooking. Drain and press gently against a colander to remove excess water. In sauté pan, combine oil and garlic and cook on medium heat. Sauté one minute, then add collards, raisins, and ½ tsp salt. Sauté for three minutes, stirring regularly. Add orange juice and cook for another 15 seconds, just to heat juice through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately!
BLANC&ROUGE “Excellent, wide-ranging selection, high end to low.” – NEW YORK TIMES
Organic and biodynamic selections Wine tastings every Wednesday Free delivery with no minimum purchase within DUMBO and Brooklyn Heights. Delivery elsewhere in Brooklyn and Manhattan is free for orders over $200 81 Washington Street, DUMBO 718-858-9463 Visit our online store at brwines.com
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BROOKLYN BREAD
Thursday, November 25, 2010
Second Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake-Off Benefit Sunday, November 14 at Spacecraft in Williamsburg PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH
Ben Donsky, Heather Gaw, Rebecca Dash Donsky
Arielle Rubin, Juliette Loughlin, Liz Drummey 0080
Wyatt Accardi, Anthony Accardi, Quin Accardi
Thursday, November 25, 2010
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A Saturday Afternoon At Brooklyn Flea November 13 in Fort Greene
Mikala Kuchera, Matt Mondanile
Catherine Marotta, Ryan Hall
Siblings David Byrd and Christi Byrd
Mark Sopchak, from Whimsy & Spice
Bread from Scratch Bread
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
The ONE-STOP SHOP for a greener home & life
Green in BKLYN invites you to stop in for holiday gifts and a chance to win a little something… Enter our second annual drawing for the 2010
Green (in BKLYN) Gift Basket with eco-friendly gifts and treats worth at least $201.00. Spend at least $20.10 before 2011 and you’re in!
Green in BKLYN
432 Myrtle Ave (b/w Clinton & Waverly) www.greeninbklyn.com 718-855-4383 Holiday hours: Tue to Fri 11-8 Sat 10-8 Sun 11-6
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Thursday, November 25, 2010
A Saturday Afternoon At Brooklyn Flea November 13 in Fort Greene
Umut Yamau, visiting from London
Molly McIntyre, Brian DaRosia
Anett Gabriel, Gabriela de la Vega
Larrk Brinkman, Angie Spencer
Chelsea Carter, Michelle Kmoo
Ari Tiziani, Max Read
Katy Hogben, Mark Hogben
John Murphy, Peg Horan
Billy Morrissette, Marcus Braham
Jill Grinberg, Marty Beller
Barbro Arhem, Katarina Arhem
Sofia Degli Alessandri, Ian Hultquist
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Thursday, November 25, 2010
BROOKLYN BREAD
A Saturday Afternoon At Brooklyn Flea
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Gowanus Canal 16ft
November 13 in Fort Greene PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH
Mediterranean 7,280ft
John, Sally, Merry
Indian 25,344ft
atlantic 28,232ft Andrew Sell, from Nunu Chocolates
Pacific 35,797ft
Oddhero.com Graphic prints, made in Brooklyn with genius Peter Naddeo, Chole Le’Paule, from Brooklyn Brew Shop
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Thursday, November 25, 2010
Kings County General Store At Southpaw Sunday, November 14 on Fifth Avenue, Park Slope
Rebecca Jablonsky, Matt Karrin
Melissa Kelly of Be In The Moment
Montana Olean, Annie Olean
Carolyn Reichuber, Courtney Reichuber
Melinda Diorio, Donleo Tagatac
Joyce & Al Ghiroli
Oliver Coig, Luis Coig
Jennifer Piette, owner of McBitterson’s
Vincent Meillet, Carrie Overture-Meillet
Andrea Beaulieu, Dina Jacob
Hinore Lansen, Peter Tubin
Alexander Norbom, Caitlin Hinz
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Thursday, November 25, 2010
BROOKLYN BREAD
Kings County General Store At Southpaw Sunday, November 14 at 125 Fifth Avenue, Park Slope PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH
Thomas Brown
Adam Spector, Michelle Otis (Mifflin Jewlry & Kings County GS), Eric Bernstein
Mikey Palms (bar owner), Stacy Leatherland (runs Kings County), Doug DeFalco
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Thursday, November 25, 2010
Thursday, November 25, 2010
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Kings County General Store At Southpaw Sunday, November 14 on Fifth Avenue, Park Slope
Amanda Redman of Eponymy Boutique
Andrea Cobb of Natural Abstract
Patrick Linden, Kaye Matheny
Diane Ferrera, Bam Romero of Bam’s Jerky
Jennifer Sonnenford of McBitterson’s
Laura Koch, Kristin Koch
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Vinyasa Yoga Open Level Classes Beginners Tweens 39 Wyckoff Street between Court and Smith www.cobblehillyoga.com
Page 32
THE BIG PICTURE Some of the entries at the Second Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake-Off Benefit on Sunday, November 14 at Spacecraft in Williamsburg. More photos on pages 14-22. Photograph by John Suscovich
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Thursday, November 25, 2010
Thursday, November 25, 2010
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Thursday, November 25, 2010
Kings County General Store At Southpaw Sunday, November 14 on Fifth Avenue, Park Slope
Emily Beebe, Jesse Saffner of Little Buddy Biscuit Co.
Blake Day, Sarah Farid of Luxxor Vintage
Jill Fagin, Jillian Roche of Jillery by Jill Fagin Inc.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
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Thursday, November 25, 2010
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Confessions Of A Waitress
M
Life from the other side of the table, by Stella Dixon
Y great-aunt Helen is ninety years old. She’s a remarkable lady who is, despite two plastic hips and a metal knee, still living alone in her meticulously-kept rancher. When I visit, she takes me to her favorite caribouthemed restaurant. She says the giant talking moose heads on the wall remind her of her travels out west. Last time I visited, I brought John, a boy I’d recently started dating. Aunt Helen told us (or, rather, yelled to us) that she was a virgin until she got married at forty-three years of age. Speaking loudly enough for the patrons on the next bearskin rug over to hear, she reached across the table and said, “Stella, don’t ever lose your virginity.” John was finding all of this very amusing – until Aunt Helen started referring to him as my “hubby,” and asking when we were planning on getting hitched. Good sport that he is, when it came time to pay, John insisted on picking up the check. Suddenly, the room got very quiet. Even the talking moose, who’d been describing his
MBA (Masters of Bison Administration), went silent. I’d forgotten to warn John that you never, under any circumstances, offer to pay for Aunt Helen’s meal; it is an insult of buffalo-sized proportion. I thought poor Aunt Helen might have an aneurism right there, under her tusk and antler-fashioned coat-rack. For a while, I thought this insistence on picking up the check was something exclusive to elderly ladies and nervous gentlemen trying to impress a date. Then I started waiting tables. I’ve had people track me down inside the walkin refrigerator of a restaurant’s kitchen, waving a credit card in the air as though it were a
winning lottery ticket. I’ve had men sneak money into my apron as I’m taking an order at somebody else’s table. I’ve seen fights so hostile break out in the center of a crowded dining room, I’ve scurried out of the way. If no one has managed to sneak me payment over the course of a dinner, I delegate the task of dropping off a bill to one of several gullible bus boys. I watch as he unknowingly extends his arm, check in hand, over the table. Inevitably, he’s swooped upon like an injured lion cub amongst hyenas. It’s survival of the fittest in the restaurant, and the fastest guest is the one who secures the bill. My frightened bus boy slinks away, hurt that I could have fed him to the wolves, and helplessly shrugging his shoulders at the angry customers who just weren’t quick enough. As someone who works in the restaurant jungle, I know that sometimes the animals aren’t only on our plates or, for that matter, talking to us from a mounted position on the wall. Sometimes, the animals are eating and drinking amongst us, just waiting for an opportunity to pounce.
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olive design Interior Design at affordable rates You’ll love coming home olivedesignny.com mary van vliet (347) 495-5188
Skateboards Flowers Dry-Goods 533 Park Place Prospect Heights 718.789.8889
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Thursday, November 25, 2010
First Annual Hattie Carthan Market Farmy Folks SoirĂŠe Saturday, November 13 at the Hattie Carthan Garden in Bed-Stuy
Debra, Bren and Jessie Mulligan
Sam Landenwitsch, Katie Joiner, Amy Parker, Carli Smythe
Roxanne, Rasheed Hislop
Ericka Martins, Colombe Jacobsen
Natalie A. Soleil, Darnella Atkins
Sean-Michael Fleming, James Paladino
PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAWRENCE SUMULONG... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Thursday, November 25, 2010
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Bartender Of The Week
B
Andy Zimmerman from Sycamore in Ditmas Park
Y DAY it’s a flower shop, by night it’s a beautifully-lit whisky and bourbon bar. Whisky and flowers. That has to be the ultimate yin-yang. Add to that a lush garden on the outside, and a basement that often hosts live music and you have an altogether pleasing sensory experience. We chatted with bartender Andy Zimmerman to learn a little more. What’s your home town? Kingston, New York, and before I moved to Brooklyn I was living in New Paltz. How old are you and how long have you been bartending at Sycamore? I’m 28 and I’ve been working at Sycamore for a little over two years, since they opened in September of 2008. I’m also studying for a masters in social work at NYU. Where were you working before that? I was bartending at the Farm on Adderley, right on the same block. What’s the clientele like a Sycamore? A lot of regulars? And when does the place start filling up? We definitely get a lot of regulars. It’s a pretty diverse neighborhood, so we have customers of all ages – a lot of musicians, a lot of freelancer types. Happy hour runs from 4pm to 8pm, and the crowd’s a little different then, more regulars, and you know, maybe generally a little bit of an older crowd and 9-to-5 daytimes workers. It usually gets pretty busy around 7pm. What drinks are ordered the most often? Well we’re a whiskey bar so we make a lot of Old Fashioneds and Manhattans, and, of course, lots of whiskey and beer. How did the whole flower shop and bar conglomeration come about? I don’t know exactly, the owners of the Farm on Adderley came up with the idea, I think Allison (Gary’s wife) may have been instrumental in that. Does your drink list reflect the flower shop? Are there cocktails with rosewater, for example? We tried a cocktail menu for a while and sort of did flower-themed drinks, but we often get really busy so it started to be more trouble than it was worth. Along that line we do a beer and bouquet for $10, so we incorporate flowers like that instead of something too fancy. Any flowery perks you get to enjoy as an employee there? We get half-off at the flower shop, and I take advantage of that. They also sell artisanal soaps and stuff like that which make the discount definitely worthwhile.
Got bourbon. Andy Zimmerman mans the bar at Sycamore in Ditmas Park, which is a flower shop by day and one of Brooklyn’s best-loved drinking spots by night. Photograph by Allen Ying
What’s your favorite drink and favorite place to drink in Brooklyn? We like to stay local so we hang out a lot at the Double Windsor. It just opened, and one of the bartenders here also works there. We usually order a lot of beer. I like Negronis and I’m really into Campari lately. There’s also the Clover Club – that’s right on Smith Street. It’s kind of like a speakeasy-type place, the bartenders have vests on and they’ve got old-school drinks with egg whites, stuff like that. Where do you like to eat in the neighborhood? What do you usually order? The Farm on Adderley is our sister restaurant and they have a fantastic menu. There’s also Purple Yam, which is a Filipino restaurant that’s really unique. They have a great goat curry I saw that you had John Lennon’s pianist stopping by on November 22. Is there usually a lot of live entertainment at the bar? Any regular events readers should know about? We have a music thing here in the basement, we have comedy shows, and we’re hosting a
short film screening tonight. We usually have two or three music events every week with a combination of local and out-of-town artists. Certain events are monthly (like the comedy show) and we just started this thing called Monday Night Vinyl Club on the first Monday of every month. We just put in turntables, so people can come in with a bunch of records and guest DJ. They do little sets of chill Monday music – Oldies, Motown, and ’60s and ’70s stuff. It’s very relaxed and anyone can get up and give it a spin. Are there any drinks you hate making? There’s always mojitos in the summer. What about now that the weather is getting cooler? Well, Hot Toddys have come up pretty often lately. I respect the Hot Toddy, so I don’t get too annoyed, but hating drinks is a balance of how annoying they are to make and whether or not you respect the use of that drink. Sycamore, 1118 Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn, 347-240-5850, sycamorebrooklyn.com.
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