BROOKLYN
BREAD Good Food News « Delivered Fresh
THE AUGUST ISSUE, 2011 « Vol. 2, No. 6 « Free Publication « Brooklyn, NY
inside...
Our Favorite Things To Try PAGES 4-5
My Perfect Brooklyn Day, By Shane Welch PAGES 25
In Search Of The Perfect Margarita PAGES 33
A Chat With David Moo Of Quarter Rachel Brotman samples the goods at the Grilled Sandwich Cook Off in the Amazing Garden in Carroll Gardens on Sunday, July 24 – more photographs on pages 8-15. Photograph by Kim Madalinski
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August, 2011
Jennie Herzog, Nicole Wood, Luke Paisley and Abby Ryder-Huth at Smorgasburg – more photographs on pages 32 to 36. Photograph by Kim Madalinski
Inside This Issue
Our Team
Our Favorite Things 4-5 Treats both inspiring and indulgent.
Bartender Of The Month 57 David Moo, owner of Quarter.
Editors Danielle Franca Swift, Jack Wright
Adopt An Animal 6 Five adorable dogs need homes and loving owners.
Shopping Local 59 Kim Madalinksi shops the best stores and artisans.
Deputy Editors Bec Couche, Jason Greenberg
The Events Guide 7 Everything you need to plan your food calendar.
The Food and Drink Crossword 61 Test your knowledge of all things edible.
Assistant Editor Jon Roth
The Production Line 9 Investigating the source of great dishes.
The Brooklyn Bread Rate Card 63 You’ll be surprised by how affordable we are.
Illustrator Liza Corsillo
WHERE THE BB PHOTOGRAPHERS WENT Grilled Sandwich Cook-Off 8-15
Contributors Brooklyn Public Library, Kate Blumm, Joel Bukiewicz, Emily Elsen, Melissa Elsen, Cathy Erway, Laura Nuter
Try This At Home! 17 Cathy Erway in search of the “good” burger. Humble Pie 18 Another helping from Four and Twenty Blackbirds.
No Such Thing As A Free Lunch 16-22
An Edible History Of Brooklyn 21 Coping with the great milk strike of 1953.
Wine-Tasting At Picada Y Vino 23-24
My Perfect Brooklyn Day 25 Shane Welch, owner of Sixpoint Craft Ales.
A Very Rainy Day At Smorgasburg 32-36
The Great Brooklyn Food Safari 33 This month: The borough’s best margaritas.
Book Launch Of “The Butcher’s Guide” 40-43
A Chat With... 35 Melissa Ennen, owner of Foodshed Market. The Cheese Report 37 Laura Nuter’s irresistibly gooey guide. Plants, Food And Beyond 47 A column from Brooklyn Botanic Garden.
Rooftop Solstice Celebration 27-31 Homegrown At Brooklyn Botanic Garden 38-39 The Total Smith Street Immersion 45 Eat, Drink And Be Hopeful Benefit 46-50 Poetry + Pie Event 51-53 Second Annual Crawfish Boil 54-56 The Food Cyclists’ Farm Aid Benefit 58-62
Photographers Liz Clayman, Kim Madalinski, Andrew St. Clair, Jamie Siegel, Lawrence Sumulong, Allen Ying Brooklyn Bread is published by Brooklyn Bread Press (917) 740-1072 You can also read the entire magazine online at BrooklynBreadPress.com Facebook @BrooklynBreadPress Twitter Bbpbreadcrumbs Brooklyn Bread is printed on recycled paper using soy-based inks.
August, 2011
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u OPENINGS, CLOSING AND HAPPENINGS... By Jason Greenberg New ice cream shop Ample Hills is open in Prospect Heights... Chef Mark Simmons, a former contestant on Top Chef who has worked at Public, is opening a New Zealand-influenced restaurant called Kikiana at 847 Union Street... Faan, an Asian-fusion spot at 209 Smith Street, has closed... The owners of Five Leaves in Greenpoint have opened Nights and Weekends across the street... Couleur Cafe, a new French coffee shop, is now open in Park Slope... Chef Alex Sorenson, of the newly opened Colonie, has left the Brooklyn Heights restaurant to open his own place. He has been replaced by Per Se alum Brad McDonald... Denver-based chain Smashburger opened its first New York branch in Fort Greene at 80 DeKalb Avenue... Shelsky’s Smoked Fish has opened at 251 Smith Street, selling baked goods, salads, sandwiches and fish (of course)... Ditmas Park sushi spot Himalayan Sushi has closed... The owners of Beer Table will open Beer Table Pantry in Grand Central Terminal... The former Relish space on Wythe in Williamsburg will become an outpost of popular SoHo taqueria, La Esquina. This location will be called Cafe de La Esquina at Wythe Diner... The owners of Carroll Gardens Southern spot Seersucker have opened a café called Smith Canteen in an old pharmacy at 343 Smith Street... Fette Sau owner Jim Carroll is giving his St Anselm space another shot, directly next door to his beer bar Spuyten Duyvil. The menu will feature “simply seasoned meats and seafood...” Do or Dine is now open in Bed-Stuy on Bedford Avenue... Charles Brassard is the new chef at Café Colette on Berry Street... The owners of Anella and Saint Vitus in Greenpoint are opening a tapas restaurant in August... Tacos with fillings like cactus are being served at Cochinita in Clinton Hill... Former Top Chef Masters contestant Dale Talde, creative director at Buddakan, will open a modern Asian restaurant in Park Slope with the owners of Thistle Hill Tavern... Morgane Restaurant and Bar, a French bistro with a garden, is open at 340 Bedford Avenue... What was pizzeria Reginella at 193 Atlantic Avenue is now Catania, serving Sicilian snacks... Pillar & Plough will open in Hotel Williamsburg with a kitchen run by Andrés Grundy, the chef de cuisine at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon. Cooks will actually take the food to the tables... Izakaya, a Japanese drinking establishment that also serves food, has opened in Cobble Hill at 176 Smith Street. u WIN A $50 GIFT CERTIFICATE IN OUR FUN CLIP ART CONTEST While you are poring over the pages of Brooklyn Bread, you will have the chance to win a $50 gift certificate to spend at GRDN, the urban garden store. We have sneakily hidden a happy little sun in one of the ads in this issue. It’s a smaller version of the guy to your left. When you have located the piece of clip art email hello@brooklynbreadpress.com. Tell us on which page and in which ad the clip art is hidden. Make sure you write CLIP ART CONTEST in the subject line, and also include your name and address. A winner will be selected at random on the third week in August, and the name of that lucky person will be printed in the next issue of Brooklyn Bread, and posted on our Facebook page, and on Twitter. Last month’s winner was Michael Stewart.
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August, 2011
Our Favorite Things
A roundup of some of the finest dishes and treats from Brooklyn... by Jason Greenberg Zucchini Parmigiana at Sud Vino e Cucina It’s difficult not to love Sud Vino e Cucina. Behind the austere exterior are exposed bricks, a long communal table, old church pews, work from local artists and a white cedar bar, creating a harmonious atmosphere that puts one at ease. The menu is small and focused. A handful of options, like crostini (Taleggio cheese, apricot), insalate, antipasti and pasta (pappardelle with white wine meat ragu and lemon zest) may seem like ordinary fare upon first reading, but not when you see them on the plate. The Zucchini Parmigiana is a prime example. Thinly sliced strips of tender zucchini are folded together to make what appears to be a basket. The inside is filled with a thick garlicky tomato and bread sauce, and melted mozzarella. Topped with a few basil leaves, it’s a great example of what comes out of the kitchen at Sud: simple and delicious food. (An insider tip: owner Giuseppe di Franco offers his customers a glass of wine if they plant something in his outdoor area.) Sud Vino e Cucina, 1102 Bedford Avenue, BedStuy, 718-484-8474, sudnyc.com.
Tartines at Brook Vin When Aaron and Gillian Hans, owners of the wine shop Big Nose, Full Body, decided to open a wine bar across the street, it was a no-brainer. But Brook Vin is actually much more than a wine bar. Wine is “the star of the show” as manager Brian Mitchell puts it, but the food and cocktails play important supporting roles. Dave Townsend’s menu consists of snacks, salads, small plates, a
blue plate special, and tartines, which are open-faced sandwiches. The menu changes fairly frequently but three tartine dishes can always be expected. On a recent visit the menu featured a smoked trout, cream cheese and local spring onions, a housecured pancetta, heirloom tomato, garlic aioli and arugula and a house-made chorizo, queso fresco and radish cilantro salad. During Brook Vin’s happy hour (weeknights
from 5-7pm, all day Monday and 12-5 on weekends), they are available for $5. The wine list is excellent and offers well-chosen wines by the glass or the bottle from around the globe. However, it’s the house cocktails (like a horseradish martini or the glazed ham and bacon infused bourbon) that make Brook Vin much more than meets the eye. Brook Vin, 381 7th Avenue, Park Slope, 718768-9463, brookvin.com.
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Chicken Liver and Bacon Sandwich at Post Office
Pupusas from Solber Pupusas “What is a pupusa?” read the cards lined up in front of the Solber Pupusa stand. A pupusa is a traditional and age-old El Savadorian treat of grilled corn masa patties that are hand-shaped and filled with various fillings. Owner Reina Solqer has been making them for 11 years and has become the face of authentic street vendor food. She has appeared on the Martha Stewart Show. Reina now sells her fresh fare at the Red Hook Ball Fields, Brooklyn Flea,
Smorgasburg and the Red Hook Marcato. While pupusas are often compared to tamales, they are a truly different animal and deserve to be in a category by themselves. They are filled with anything from pork, beans, cheese, peppers or a combination of it all. They are topped with pickled cabbage, pickled jalapenos, pickled onions and sour cream which makes them difficult to eat by hand, the traditional way, but a knife and fork doesn’t make them any less delicious. Solber Pupsas, 516-395-0061, solberpupusas. com.
The south Williamsburg bar and restaurant trend continues. The Post Office, which opened three months ago on Havemeyer, has brought the block its first destination bar. The focus is on their extensive drinks menu, which exclusively features whiskeys, bourbons and ryes made in America. More than 30 brands of whiskey are available, including small-batch bourbons and harder-to-find selections. The menu itself is serious business and looks it, arriving in a blue file folder with dividers between sections. The food menu is small, but Chef Sam Glinn (formerly of Momofuku Ssäm Bar and Noodle Bar) created the dishes that he would want to eat that meet the limitations of his very small kitchen. He created the chicken liver and bacon sandwich as an homage to the two chefs who have inflluenced him most, Tien Ho (executive chef at Ma Peche) and Joaquin Baca (chef/owner of the Brooklyn Star). The sandwich is Glinn’s interpretation of a Vietnamese banh mi. The livers are seared in bacon fat and then blended with green apples, onions, thyme and brandy and spread on a crunchy baguette. It’s then topped with frisee, pickled carrots, shallots, cucumber and crispy bacon. The combination provides an interesting twist on the classic sandwich and does a good job of soaking up the whiskey. Post Office, 188 Havemeyer Street, Williamsburg, 718-963-2574, postofficebk.com.
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Enrich Your Life... Adopt An Animal
These beautiful pups need homes... call Dog Habitat Rescue at 347-203-3932 or email rescue@doghabitat.org
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Squishy was rescued in an apartment fire in the Bronx. Her mother is just under 35 pounds and we’re certain that Squishy will be, too. Her mama is a Pit bull mix, and Squishy looks more lab-like than anything else. Let us know if you’d like to meet her!
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Rosie came to us after she was surrendered by her owner who could no longer care for her. She’s a year-old mix of Staffordshire terrier and American bulldog. She likes dogs, cats and children. She’s a very sweet young girl. Contact us if you’d like to learn more.
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Sneezy, bashful and happy (clockwise from above left) were discovered along with four other brothers and sisters (you can guess their names) in the Bronx and brought to Manhattan Animal Care and Control Shelter. We were able to rescue these cute pups just a day before they were scheduled to be euthanized. The other four siblings have all been adopted, but these three are still in desperate need of a good home. Want to save them? Call 347-203-2923.
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The Food & Drink Events Guide
Cook with the kids, sample home-brewed beer and cheese – snack right through the dog days of summer. 8/6 Eat Like A Local: Tour Of Carroll Gardens Enjoy a walking lunch through Carroll Gardens, a neighborhood offering all kinds of cuisine, from Italian and Middle Eastern shops to restaurants and cafés specializing in organic and artisanal foods. Urban Oyster hosts this delicious event, where you’ll not only eat your fill, but learn about the history of the area from local business owners and residents. Nothing pairs with great food like a bit of exploration. Tour begins at 2pm, tickets are $49. For tickets and information on where to meet, visit urbanoyster.com. 8/14 Cooking With Kids At The Brooklyn Kitchen Engage your child in the world of the kitchen with this class, specially designed for kids ages six through ten (and their parents). You’ll make and taste kidfriendly recipes like homemade chicken nuggets, tater tots and honey-glazed carrots, as well as picking up a few tips on how to handle youngsters in the kitchen. The two-hour class costs $85 for a parent and child, and another $20 for each additional child. Class begins at 2pm. To reserve your spot, visit thebrooklynkitchen.com. The Brooklyn Kitchen, 100 Frost Street, 718-3495033, brooklynkitchen.com. 8/11 Prospect Park Twilight Tour Very few prospects beat an August evening in Prospect Park. Start your night at the Audubon Center with a soiree on the balcony, including wine and cheese refreshments to fortify you for the rest of the evening’s adventures. Then, set out on a tour of the Lullwater and the Lake on the Audubon’s electric boat, Independence. After you’ve returned, meet up with a naturalist who will lead you on an evening bat walk. Events starts at 6:30pm, tickets are $30, cash only. For details and reservations, call 718-287-3400, extension 303. 8/18 Wild Brooklyn At Brooklyn Botanic Garden Each week the BBG explores a different part of Brooklyn’s natural world and teaches families about the plants and wildlife that coexist with us. In August, guides will discuss urban animals, trees that grow in Brooklyn and the Native American “Three Sisters” plants – that’s corn, beans and squash. There are handson learning stations, a chance to explore the garden independently, and a takehome nature project. Stop by any time
Explore the wilder side of the borough at Brooklyn Botanic Garden. Photograph by Ashley Gamell, courtesy of BBG.
8/20 The Total Vanderbilt Avenue Immersion Brooklyn Brewery and Brooklyn Based join forces to create a this final multipleblock party experience on Saturday. Enjoy a daylong beer and food crawl: Soda, Branded Saloon, Woodwork and Hot Bird will be serving complimentary cups of Brooklyn Brewery beer, and many more bars and restaurants along the avenue in Prospect Heights will offer deals and specials. Event runs from noon to 6pm. For details and to RSVP, visit Brooklyn Based’s event page on Facebook.
8/25 Summer Beer Garden At Brooklyn Historical Society Enjoy a cold Brooklyn Brewery beer in the beautiful Brooklyn Historical Society building. At the beer garden brewery employees will be on hand to pour and talk beer (if you like). BHS’s first floor galleries will also be open during the event – you’ll have the opportunity to explore “Home Base: Memories of the Brooklyn Dodgers at Ebbets Field” and “Painting Brooklyn: Stories of Immigration and Survival.” Admission is $5 and the event runs from 7-9pm. For details on this event, visit brooklynbrewery.com. Brooklyn Historical Society, 128 Pierrepont Street, 718-222-4111.
8/22 Homebrewed Beer And Cheese Tasting At Sycamore Stop by Sycamore and toast the upcoming Brooklyn Wort competition by tasting some delicious homebrewed beers with some of the coolest brewers around. There will be plenty of surprising varieties, as well as guests from Bierkraft who will pair the brews with some of the outstanding cheeses they carry in their store. Admission is $30, and the event starts at 8pm. Visit sycamorebrooklyn.com to reserve your spot. Sycamore, 1118 Cortelyou Road, 347-2405850, sycamorebrooklyn.com.
8/31 Sweet And Savory Pies And Tarts At Ger-Nis Enjoy the best of harvest season with this tasty baking class – you’ll learn about crust options, baking methods, and how to craft the perfect filling. Recipes include apricot, Italian plum and prune tarts, roasted tomato-basil tarts, and ginger honey and black pepper and herb glazes. Prepare to wow your guests with delicious morsels perfect for appetizers or desserts. Cost is $50, class runs from 6-9pm. To book your spot, visit www.ger-nis.com. Ger-Nis Culinary & Herb Center, 540 President Street, Suite E, 347-422-0337, ger-nis.com
between 1-3pm – free with garden admission. Brooklyn Botanic Garden, 900 Washington Avenue, 718-623-7200, bbg.org.
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bicycle station
Bicycle Station
August, 2011
Grilled Sandwich Cook-Off In The Amazing Garden Sunday, July 24 in Carroll Gardens
photographS by kim madalinski
“The Bicycle Station is a godsend for cyclists...” Time Out New York
The cook-off contestants: Ashley Fulk, Evan Hanczor and Rick Hauchman
Tune-ups v repairs restorations v sales Owner Mike has more than 30 years of experience in bike maintenance and care
Leslie Stein, Victoria Young, Matt Callahan
All summer-long, ask for the Ready to Ride TUNE-UP... Only $45! Need a bike? We’ve got great deals on new and used models. 171 Park Avenue, corner of Adelphi 1 block from Flushing Avenue (718) 638-0300 bicycylestationbrooklyn.com Grace Meng, Becca Widiss, Alex Selkirk, Mimi Yin
August, 2011
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The Production Line
We uncover how some of your favorite dishes and drinks came to be, and what path they took to get there... by Bec Couche
Fine and Raw Ice Cream Looks like ice cream, tastes like really good ice cream – but technically, Fine and Raw Ice Cream is not ice cream. Daniel Sklaar, 31, the South African genius behind Fine and Raw, explains this mystery treat... 1. Dairy and sugar are cunningly absent in Fine and Raw – we thought we would bring that to the ice cream world. We start with a coconut butter base instead of dairy – which is why it’s not an ice cream. Coconut butter is amazingly luxurious. It’s a beautiful ingredient to work with. Some butters are better than others, but my favorites are from Malaysia – in that area they have beautiful wild coconuts. 2. Next, we use agave to sweeten it. Agave was the golden child of the alternative food world, but now it’s controversial. There’s industrial-produced agave, which is not so hot, while smaller producers making high-quality agave. We use the smaller ones. 3. Then we add a little bit of water for viscosity and to rehydrate the coconut, and put it in this three-foot immersion blender. It’s probably the most fun tool I’ve played with. It looks like a big bazooka, and it churns and freezes the batch. 4. We made one flavor two years ago, chocolate, and then followed it up with coconut. This year we’ve been chopping up our chocolate and making it into a swirl of the ice cream – then putting it back into the blender and re-churning it. We’re experimenting with bringing The Chocolate Sea Salt bar into the chocolate flavor and the Almond Chunky Bon-Bon into the coconut – it’s been bending our minds. 5. We do sell the two regular flavors at Park Slope Food Co-op in a small 4-oz cup – we make big tubs of the mixes, cool them with dry ice and scoop them out at the market. My favorite thing is that you can eat it for breakfast, lunch and dinner. My roommates love it so much they started feeling guilty, so I put a donation cup in the freezer. I’ll come out in the morning and they will be in their pajamas eating ice cream – and there’s two dollars in the cup. This delicious not-quite ice cream is available at the Park Slope Food Co-op and the Brooklyn Flea on Saturdays in Williamsburg only… FINE & RAW chocolates, www.fineandraw. com. Illustration by Liza Corsillo
exceedingly tasty baked goods
260 Fifth Avenue, Park Slope 718.230.3119 Mon 7-6 « Tue/Wed/Thu 7-7 « Fri 7-9 « Sat 8-9 « Sun 8-7
troispommespatisserie.com
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August, 2011
Grilled Sandwich Cook-Off In The Amazing Garden Sunday, July 24 in Carroll Gardens
Michael Friedman
Leslie Stein
Solato, Ellie, Cherokee and Clarence Penn
Diana Schneider, Leonard Lopate
Justin Tornow
Kim Meijer, Beth Toland
Sean Mangan, Jennifer Prezioso
Tyler Reed, Melissa Sarno
photographS by kim madalinski... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
August, 2011
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ANNOUNCING SMALL BATCH BREWERY TOURS
$8
GUIDED TASTING OF 4 BEERS. PRIVATE TOUR. NO CROWDS.
Skip the weekend crush and book yourself a reservation-only weeknight tour by emailing tours@brooklynbrewery.com.
BROOKLYN BREWERY | Small Batch Brewery Tours | Mon - Thurs, 5pm | Williamsburg, Brooklyn
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August, 2011
Grilled Sandwich Cook-Off In The Amazing Garden Sunday, July 24 in Carroll Gardens
Leonard Lopate, WNYC host and judge of the cook-off
Lily
Aaron Shapiro, Brian Montopoli, Michael Friedman
Barbara Brice
Plenty of sandwiches
Beth Toland
Natalie Andrews, Justin Tornow
photographS by kim madalinski... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
August, 2011
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August, 2011
Grilled Sandwich Cook-Off In The Amazing Garden Sunday, July 24 in Carroll Gardens
photographS by kim madalinski
SHK.brooklynbread11.1x.pdf
4/29/11
Evan Hanczor
Ashley Fulk
Event organizer Ilya Marritz
Seth and Calvin Hillinger
Rachel Brotman
Fred Bernstein
12:18:05 PM
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CM
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August, 2011
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Grilled Sandwich Cook-Off In The Amazing Garden Sunday, July 24 in Carroll Gardens
Sharon Polli, Madeline Gunn
Ross Martin, Hans Holzen
Matt Callahan, Leslie Stein
Ina Trantcheva, Matt Bell
Victoria Young
Launa Beuhler
photographS by kim madalinski... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
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Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
“No Such Thing As A Free Lunch” At Back To The Land Saturday, June 25 in Park Slope
photographS by lawrence sumulong
Adam Horowitz, Rebeca Medina
Diane Loncar, Barbara Ornstein
Nefthi Sandeep, Neril Sandeep
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Try This At Home!
Inspired by Brooklyn’s finest culinary creations, Cathy Erway tries them out in her own kitchen The Ultimate Brooklyn Burger with Roasted Potato “Fries” For the burger 1 lb pastured beef 3 SCRATCHBread “Stuyvesant” boules 1 quart grape tomatoes, quartered About ¼ lb Lucques olives, smashed to remove pits, and chopped About ½ red onion, chopped 3-4 oz Baita Fruili raw cow’s milk cheese, sliced into 3 burger-sized pieces 3 tablespoons My Friend’s Mustard Spicy Brown Ale mustard 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce Salt and pepper to taste For the fries 4-5 medium-sized red potatoes, cut into matchsticks or “shoestring” fries About 3 tablespoons olive oil Salt and pepper to taste
Illustrations by Jon Roth
I decided to visit the Grand Army Plaza Greenmarket for ground beef. Laurent from Arcadian Pastures sells there every Saturday. His pastured ground beef is among the most expensive at the market at $9 a pound. But I figured if I was going to do this thing right, I might as well spend $3 on the meat.
It’s summer and I’m throwing in the towel – it’s time to make burgers! I used to think all a “good” burger needed was some good beef, a good bun and maybe some good cheese. Brooklyn has changed all that. Now the “best” burgers are made with grass-fed beef and given treatments ranging from classic to Euro-chic (Roquefort, fried egg). I’m no expert on making these, but as long as there’s an open grill in Prospect Park, I’m game.
I went to Brooklyn Larder for a wedge of Baita Fruili, a raw cow’s milk cheese with a touch of sharpness. I picked out a sourdough boule made by SCRATCHbread, and a tub of Lucques olives, an attractive green type. They’d be perfect with grape tomatoes, which I’d picked up at the Greenmarket along with a red onion. Finishing touch: My Friend’s Mustard, a whole-grain mustard made locally by my friend, Anna Wolf.
Heat oven to 450˚. Coat sliced potatoes with olive oil and place on baking sheet. Roast for 2 minutes; flip pieces with tongs, roast another 2 minutes. Transfer to paper towels, season. Mix beef with Worcestershire, salt and pepper. Form three patties and sprinkle with extra salt. Heat skillet until smoking. Turn heat to medium-high. Place patties ½ inch apart. Brown for 2 minutes.
Combine the chopped red onion, olives and tomatoes in a small bowl. Slice each boule in halves and place cut sides-down on a flat-top griddle (or toast in a toaster oven on low setting).
Which Brooklyn burger is best? I polled friends and food critics. All points led to one man: Peter Luger. This is a meaty, man’s-appetite beast with a slab of onion on top. I decided if I wanted to make the best burger in Brooklyn, I’d take cues from the borough’s best foods.
I had to try fries at home, too, so I picked up some red potatoes. The crisped potato slivers, tossed in a ceremonious pile next to the finished burger, made for an excellent meal. It was fun to make, and most of all, still “good.” I’d do it again in a second, flat.
Flip patties. Top each one with a slice of the cheese. Let cook another 2-3 minutes or until melted and medium-rare through. Place each patty on the bottom of each boule. Top with the olivetomato-onion mixture. Spread the mustard on the tops of each boule, and serve.
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August, 2011
Humble Pie
S
The sweetest of treats... By Emily and Melissa Elsen of Four and Twenty Blackbirds
ummer is high time for fruit, and we’ve been pretty excited about rhubarb (well technically it’s a vegetable) and strawberries lately. The past few weeks at the pie shop have been filled with lots and lots of washing and chopping and baking those early spring ingredients into plenty of tasty, colorful pies. Now July is a summer month, and nothing says summer quite like BLUEBERRIES. In addition to their flavor, these berries are packed with nutrients: one serving gets you 25% of your daily Vitamin C intake and lots of fiber. Plus, they’re near the top of the list when it comes to antioxidant-rich foods. One of the most classic and colorful fruits for pie (and really, one of the easiest fruits to make pie with), blueberries are very cooperative when it comes to being baked in a butter crust. And the best part? You don’t have to chop anything! If you just remember the basic rules for fruit pies that we always follow, you won’t be disappointed: sweeten, thicken and add
Basic Blueberry Pie Filling by Four & Twenty Blackbirds makes filling for one 9 inch pie 8-10 cups blueberries, rinsed and stems removed 1 large, whole peeled apple, shredded on a box grater 1/2 cup sugar 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice zest of one lemon 3 tablespoons cornstarch or arrowroot a little lemon. A really easy and reliable way to thicken and add some sweetness to a blueberry pie is to use a little shredded apple in your mix. Apples have a small amount of pectin, which acts as a thickener when baked. We like a juicy blubbery pie, but not so juicy that it is watery. Using a little cornstarch or arrowroot with the shredded apple will create a good consistency without making the pie too jammy. Here’s a simple and easy recipe for a tasty blueberry pie filling:
In a large mixing bowl, combine the berries and shredded apple. With your hands, crush about 1/4 of the berries and mix in with the rest. Add the sugar, lemon juice and zest and cornstarch or arrowroot and combine. Place in a rolled out nine inch butter crust and top either with lattice, a full top or even a crumble topping. Bake at 350F until the fruit filling is bubbly and appears thickened, about 45 minutes to one hour. Serve with vanilla ice cream or freshly whipped cream.
August, 2011
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Eight good reasons to visit Michael & Ping’s 1. Healthier food – never (ever) MSG 2. Bahn Mi – Slow-roasted pork, char sui, spicy mayo on toasted baguette 3. Tamarind-glazed Spare Ribs – Slow-cooked for eight hours 4. See the magic happen in our 51-foot open kitchen 5. Wood beams + exposed brick walls = cool (but cozy) vibe 6. Great lunch specials – get out of the office already! 7. Enjoy dessert next door at 4 & 20 Blackbirds, Brooklyn’s best pie shop 8. We’re the first Certified Green Restaurant in Brooklyn* eat in « takeout « Delivery to Gowanus/Park Slope/Carroll Gardens/Cobble Hill Entire restaurant IS available for events (GREAT PARTY SPACE!) *Admittedly, this doesn’t necessarily make the food taste any better, but it DOES make everyone feel better
437 Third Ave (corner of 8th Street), Gowanus 718-788-0017
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August, 2011
“No Such Thing As A Free Lunch� At Back To The Land URBAN
Saturday, June 25 in Park Slope
photographS by lawrence sumulong
RUSTIC
Laurel Halsey, Annie Halsey, Mona Mohini
236 N 12th St
Brooklyn, NY 11211
sandwiches + beer tasty sandwiches artfully made on house baked breads
growlers!!!!
delivery
3 draught lines
north side. greenpoint parts of south side
local & regional focus. 750/22oz bottles 12 packs craft beer in cans single 12 oz bottles drink in house! create your own six pack!
718.388.9444
Felicia Tyrk, David Basham, and the staff of Back to the Land
catering see website for catering menu
urbanrusticnyc.com Camille Jones, Felicia Tyrk, Christine Carrera
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
An Edible History Of Brooklyn
A highly nutritious, fascinating series in collaboration with Brooklyn Public Library. By Leslie Shope
I
n the early 1950s, with post-war families booming across the country, no single food item may have been as important as milk. It was needed to feed infants and supply children with necessary nutrients. Milk was also a key ingredient in many recipes – everything from meatloaf to pound cake needed milk! In Brooklyn, the demand was so high that dairies had production and distribution plants right here in the borough. Borden’s, Sheffield’s and other familiar names were responsible for not only supplying every corner store and supermarket, but also for delivering milk daily to most households. Families relied on this door-to-door service – there was always milk in the house. But on October 26, 1953, when 13,000 milk plant employees and deliverymen went on strike, all of that changed. The bottling, distribution and delivery of milk came to a halt. The union responsibly promised to continue service to those most in need – schools, hospitals and military bases – but everyone else was out of luck. Knowing a strike was possible, some families stockpiled milk prior to the 26th. This meant that by the time the strike actually began, supermarkets stocks were nearly depleted. Shoppers frantically grabbed the last bottles in their local stores. The only option was purchasing milk from the distributors. Lines formed outside distribution plants while picketers marched alongside. On October 27, a line of 3,500 people formed outside of the Borden’s plant at 85 3rd Avenue. Some waited up to three hours in the rain to purchase just a single bottle of milk at the usual price of 23 cents. Families began to fear the worst. The union was standing strong in their demand for a $15-per-week raise, and there were rumors that deliverymen represented by the union who had vowed to work were receiving threats of violence. On November 2, the strike ended. It lasted only six days, but the city’s supply of milk was practically depleted. There was no time to lose. As the Eagle noted, “The ink on the contract was hardly dry before the city’s supply of milk began moving.” Or did they mean, “mooooooving”? Read more at brooklynology.org.
During the strike, housewives had no choice but to wait in line and purchase milk directly from the distributor. The Brooklyn Daily Eagle
Cartons in hand, these women celebrate the day’s haul. The Brooklyn Daily Eagle
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Brooklyn Bread
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August, 2011
“No Such Thing As A Free Lunch” At Back To The Land Saturday, June 25 in Park Slope
Shawn Dulaney, Steve Balser
Tracy Kornrich, Fred Lubow
Andrew Whitfield, Kevin Cruz
Alan Kritzler, Ashley Chapman
Adriana, Damion Walker
Anabella Shehete, Margaret Gudkov
David Basham (owner), Lisa Masters
Matthew Spencer, Laura Wing, Jenna Bomba
photographS by lawrence sumulong... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Page 23
Wine Tasting At Picada Y Vino Saturday, June 25 in Park Slope
Dan, Anderson, Leesa and Teegan Wytock
Part of the Picada y Vino spread
Sandy Leff, Jean LeBec, Marcel LeBec
John Quinn, Ava Quinn
photographS by lawrence sumulong... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
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August, 2011
Wine Tasting At Picada Y Vino Saturday, June 25 in Park Slope
Rick Ring, Kristin Ring
Cherylann Simon, Michelle Amos
Linda Williams, Christine Gledhill
Sean Vitale, Susan Donley
Jessica Basso, Shawn Woodford
Donald Olson, Shawn Olson
photographS by lawrence sumulong... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Page 25
My Perfect Brooklyn Day By Shane Welch, Founder of Sixpoint Craft Ales
M
y perfect day in Brooklyn happens frequently, mostly because of the amazing, diverse and creative people who reside here. I often find that the best parts of any great day are punctuated by really special times with friends and family, and often consecrated by food. The perfect day starts at dawn. This is when the day is most special, and you can really witness the city awakening. The city has a pulse just like a river or farm has a pulse. When the rooster crows and the birds are chirping, the people in Brooklyn are leaving their townhouse and heading for the subway stations and bagel counters. Activity starts to pick up, and there is a hustle and bustle. At this time, I like to do a little bit of activity myself. If I’m in the right mode, I’m off to Prospect Park for a run. One lap is sufficient, but a good workout is two to three laps. If I’m really feeling relaxed, I’ll take a bike ride instead. Getting the blood coursing through your veins is really the only proper way to start the day. It makes you feel alive, especially in a sedentary world. After the workout, its really nice to take the dogs for a walk around the neighborhood, if that has not been done already. Barley and Chinook are spry and lively in the morning as well, and they are most definitely morning canines. They love to be out and taking in all of the smells and sights of the city – especially other dogs and fire hydrants! After the activity, its time for a nice shower, then a really great breakfast. Cathy and I eat breakfast at home nearly every day. Lately she has been making really great eggs with some small salad, often with a side of yogurt and granola. Its always really thoughtful, and often includes seasonal ingredients from farmers markets, or leftovers from the night before. Then, it’s off to work... As a small business owner, my day is usually all about meeting with other people, and putting out fires. I’m the last backstop for when things go wrong and have worked their way up through the management chain. If I’m not needed for that, then I usually have the opportunity to work on more creative projects, like designing new beers and Continued On Page 26 ?
Shane Welch likes to rise early for a few laps around Prospect Park before heading to his Sixpoint brewery.
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Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
“As a small business owner, my day is usually all about meeting with other people, and putting out fires,” says Welch, pictured here at his brewery.
My Perfect Day
? From Page 25 also building relationships with our wholesalers, customers and suppliers. It’s such a beautiful and vast network and it’s all consecrated by beer, so how can you go wrong? We often eat communal lunches at Sixpoint, so if I’m lucky, I’ll be participating in one of those. As the afternoon winds into the early evening, the dogs need walking again. This is a great time to do some exploring around Red Hook, which is still an undiscovered frontier in New York. Every time I seem to stumble upon a cool thing I did not notice before. Its like a secret cave with many new paths.. Dinner and nighttime is when we let loose. Because it’s NYC, you have to live it up a little. Since we are in the beer industry, there are so many
events happening all of the time, and we have so many accounts that pour our beer. If we eat at home, we take it easy, but we often find ourselves at one of the many talented and great hospitality operators out there, and have a few beers as well. And if it’s really cold in the wintertime, I guess we’ll just be making a fire, cooking up some food, and having some Sixpoint cans instead! Nothing that extraordinary needs to happen to make it an ideal day. I think people can be happy and find enlightenment when they love one another, and feel respected and taken care of by their friends, family and community. The simple daily routines of excercise, eating, working together, and perhaps some sports and entertainment and cultural activities is all I need. To me, that is an ideal day, and an ideal life. Cheers.
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Rooftop Solstice Celebation At The Commons Tuesday, June 21 in Boerum Hill
photographS by lawrence sumulong
Lionel Ouellette, Tyrone Cadett, Toby Shute
Zad Farahvash, Oriana Leckert, Jim Stark
Dean Vera, Zac Rubin, Doug Gatanis
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Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
August, 2011
Brooklyn Bread
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Rooftop Solstice Celebation At The Commons Tuesday, June 21 in Boerum Hill
Annie McShiras, Molly Gott
Jackie Rolandelli, Cris Parque
Emily Kerzin, Claudia P. Rincon
Maria Lixourioti, Theodore Poulis
Philip DeBlasio, Teresa Novellino
photographS by lawrence sumulong... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
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Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
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Rooftop Solstice Celebation At The Commons Tuesday, June 21 in Boerum Hill
Jon Freeman, Lorelei Essman-Freeman, Anthony Bradfield, Lily Bradfield
Eva Morales, Lauren Servin
Lida Shao, Jessica Walker Beaumont
Sofia Petsoulakis, Sophie Muschel-Horton, Natalia Renta
Kate Newburger, Lynn Veitzer
Gabrielle Amaro, Cody Rolandelli
Cris Parque of the New York Shamanic Circle, Melissa Ennen
photographS by lawrence sumulong... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
Page 32
August, 2011
A Very Rainy Day At Smorgasburg Saturday, June 11 on the East River
Lynne Yeamans, Vivian Gore
Red Jacket Orchard strawberries
Rachael Nemeth, Monica Blundell
photographS by kim madalinski... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Advertising in Brooklyn Bread isn’t just economical (This nice big half-page costs as little as $104) It’s also effective... people LOVE this magazine
“There is no better way for us to reach our core customers than in Brooklyn Bread.” – MICHAEL SCLAFANI, PARK DELICATESSEN OWNER
For more information, call us on 917-740-1072 Or email advertise@BrooklynBreadPress.com
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
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The Brooklyn Food Safari
This month our intrepid reporter Bec Couche goes hunting for the borough’s best margaritas
S
ummer is in full swing, which means margarita season is officially ON. This month, the Food Safari team tackles local interpretations of our favorite feel-good tequila beverage, including frozen, straight up, on the rocks, and curiously – pedal-powered. Biking and drinking isn’t actually illegal in NYC, but if you do get carried away and become a nuisance, you can be charged with such. It can also be dangerous – so go easy and remember: everything’s okay in moderation, and even better with a glass of water in between. Fonda A day of drinking demands a full stomach, and when margaritas are on the menu that calls for huevos rancheros. Fonda’s take on the Mexican breakfast stands out from the standard fried eggs on a tortilla, refried beans, salsa, cheese and cream by topping it with crumbled chorizo to give it a kick. Their signature margarita uses silver tequila, a hibiscus infusion, orange liqueur and lime juice on the rocks – definitely on the sweet side, but it set the bar high for the rest of the day. 434 7th Avenue between 14th and 15th Street.
Taco Chulo This place normally has a fun “fiesta” vibe, but on this particular Sunday, everyone was in full swing – twisting our arms to have two rounds of margaritas, and sharing a serving of sopes (corn cakes with beans, cabbage, crema, salsa verde, chicken and other delights) to keep us on our biking game. It wasn’t just the atmosphere giving the nod to a second serve. The Margarita de Pepino is a winner – cucumber-infused tequila with a spicy kick, served straight up. 318 Grand Street between Marcy and Havemeyer Street. Bozu Before hitting up the Japanese restaurant with a rep for fusion and a mean outdoor patio, we broke up the booze with a stroll around the bustling flea and a quick liedown on the shorefront. Shopping is almost as exhausting as drinking, but the Wasabi margarita put the pep back in our step. Simple, sharp, salty – oddly creamy – but so refreshing. 296 Grand Street between Havemeyer and Roebling Street. Café Habana Outpost This outdoor Cuban Fort Greene favorite
wins points for its eco-wonderland policies – the seats are made from recycled wood, solar panels power the place, and rain water is used to flush the toilets. What does this mean for your margaritas? Well – they are frozen-ish (it’s hot today), and mixed using a blender powered by a bicycle. If you ask nicely you can have a turn at mixing your own. Nothing beats a crowd pleaser who gets a laugh and brings backs drinks to the table. 757 Fulton St at South Oxford. Alma Feeling the effects of the day’s safari, we all decided the bikes could have an overnight stay out front. It was time to settle into the sunset – and, boy, is Alma the place to be for that. They have an extensive tequila menu, which would please purists of the spirit, but when taking in the view of the Manhattan skyline and Brooklyn Piers from the rooftop we thought it was fine to indulge the hankering for a pineapple vanilla margarita. With a view like that – no one’s paying attention to what you’re drinking. 187 Columbia Street at Degraw Street.
Brooklyn Bread
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August, 2011
A Very Rainy Day At Smorgasburg Saturday, June 11 on the East River
Tenzin Yoten, Dave Glaze
Hayley Ballard, Deborah Lewis
Mary Hannah Lynn, Nikki Brovold
Alice Waldon, Emma Pattiz
David Sherman
Philip and Lanna Knoll
photographS by kim madalinski... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
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Fresh Food, Fair Prices
I
Melissa Ennen, founder of Foodshed Market, shares her vision for affordable produce. By Bec Couche
f you love farmers market produce but not the prices, you might want to wander down to 388 Atlantic Avenue on Sundays and Tuesday evenings. Melissa Ennen talks to Brooklyn Bread about the ways the Foodshed will make organic, nutritional food affordable and how when it comes to making honey, the bees come first. You recently celebrated the Summer Solstice at the Foodshed. How was it? It was a lot of fun – we had a good turnout, the weather held and the food was delicious. Solstice is a time for letting go, so we distributed popsicles so people could write what they wanted to let go of in their lives on one side, and what they wanted to let into their lives on the other. After the sunset we had a fire, and people could throw their sticks in. It was a soothing evening. The Foodshed and the Commons is based out of a really interesting building on Atlantic Avenue. What’s your history with it? I got this building in 1994. It was a coin-counting machine factory, making machines for countries all over the world. I passed by this building regularly, and loved it. When they went bankrupt, it went up for auction. I was planning to start a magazine for Brooklyn, and I thought it would be perfect. I waited and waited, but when it came to auction there were 26 bidders and I got it! There was a lot of work to do to get it in shape for the magazine, but it worked. Editorially and art-wise it was successful, but it wasn’t enough. Working around the clock was not good for my health, so when we folded, I leased out the building. When did the idea for the Commons happen? The mission of the Commons is to educate. When the leases were up for renewal, I took the building back. I had some community groups that I had let come in, and I left one of the floors open for community groups like Brooklyn Young Mothers and Brooklyn Food Coalition. Then we opened it up for all kinds of groups. Quickly we had a full calendar for fundraisers and meetings, but it didn’t bring in any money. Then we came up with the idea of a farmers market – the Foodshed. How does it work? We don’t get a lot of foot traffic, so we rely on word of mouth. We have a produce market on Tuesday from 4-8pm and all day Sunday we have a market with the addition of vendors. We don’t
“It’s the healthiest produce at the best price we can find, which makes us more competitive than the average farmers market,” says Melissa Ennen of the Foodshed Market. Photograph by Lawrence Sumulong
have farmers selling produce – we do it ourselves. We go around in our cargo trike and purchase produce from the farmers market before they leave town. We get produce from as many as 15 different farms. It’s the healthiest produce at the best price we can find, which makes us more competitive than the average farmers market. It’s also the one way we can make sure our produce is organic; to clarify, I don’t mean certified. Many farmers who cannot afford to do the whole certified organic have sound, organic practices. We also want to educate people on labels, and what they mean. Is education going to play a stronger role in the Foodshed? In a few weeks we’re going to be launching a much more educational component. I’ve been coordinating a research project on of local supermarkets and farmers markets. I’d like shoppers at the Foodshed to understand what prices mean in relation to nutrition. Food retains more nutrition the closer it is to harvest, and I want to educate myself and everyone at the Commons about the relationship between price and nutrition. There’s so much talk but not enough information. Food prices may go through the roof – and if they do, I’d like to know how to get the most bang for your buck. How do you choose vendors? We try to
give a leg up to people just starting out. We search commercial kitchens for interesting vendors – then we keep track of them, help them get licensed, etc. You also have bees on the roof of the building… Yes, we have a hive on the roof. I’m interested in organic beekeeping – which is about taking care of the bees and meeting their needs rather than maximizing honey production. Bees don’t make honey for us. They make it to survive. If you observe the hive for a couple of years, you see how much they need. If there’s enough honey for me and the bees, it’s fine to take. What’s the most exciting thing about the Foodshed at the moment? The most exciting thing is that we have very delicious and affordable organic produce and we are entering that time of year when it’s abundant. The people in the neighborhood that know about us are happy we are here, and we are more affordable than most farmers markets. The trick is to get more people to know about it. We put out recipes and people appreciate that. I love Brooklyn, and I love my neighborhood and I see it as another way to build community. Foodshed Market, 388 Atlantic Avenue, foodshedmarket.com. Sunday 11am-5pm, Tuesday 4pm-8pm.
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August, 2011
A Very Rainy Day At Smorgasburg Saturday, June 11 on the East River
Jennie Herzog, Nicole Wood, Luke Paisley, Abby Ryder-Huth
Lewis Chan
A.J. Nocito
Randy Schwartz, Ian Wishingrad, Leah Davis, Amos Race
Eleni Bastea, Mario Bastea-Forte, Marcello Bastea-Forte, Yizhuo Wang
Adina Benno
Claudia Ayala
Alan Harding, Sonya Farrell, Anna Farrell, Jackie Goncalves
photographS by kim madalinski... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Page 37
The Cheese Report
A
Seriously tasty dispatches... By Laura Nuter of GRAB Specialty Foods, in Park Slope
s we are keenly aware, the summer months in New York City can be brutally hot, humid and, at times, unbearably stinky (and I don’t mean in the good, cheese-y kind of way). You all know what I’m talkin’ about. It begs the question: Is it ever too hot for cheese? Quite the contrary, my friends! In fact, there are several cheese-related ways to beat the heat in NYC. Best of all, it involves incorporating many of our favorite local producers into the plan and does NOT involve turning on the stove! CHEESE PLATE + COLD BEER Grab a few cold, 16-ounce cans of Sixpoint Sweet Action and just as many friends and head over for a chat with your favorite cheesemonger. Since this brew is crisp, dry and malty, pair it with rich, soft cheeses such as Hudson Valley Camembert or Champlain Valley Triple Cream, as it will lift those milk fats right off your tongue, creating a harmonious balance between beer and cheese! Toss in a slice of Jersey Girl from Cooperstown
533 PARK PLACE BROOKLYN 718.789.8889
Kitchen Bardshar Chutney. We like it over a sliced baguette from Pain D’Avignon and alongside Salumeria Beillese’s Rosette De Lyon. It never hurts to include a dollop of Le Bec Fin’s Duck Rillette...
Cheese and a handful of Z’s Sea Salt Crackers. CHEESE AND CHARCUTERIE PLATE + CHILLED ROSÉ WINE One of my favorite things to do during the early summer months is grab a bottle of rosé from Goose Watch in the Finger Lakes, along with my favorite person, and head over to Prospect Park in the early evening to lounge around and have snacks as the sun sets. Some of the usual suspects that can be found strewn across our blanket are: Landaff, Rupert and Le Chevre Noir, all picked to be perfectly paired with our friend Wendy’s Schoolhouse
COLD SANDWICH + COLD BEER This quick and delicious sandwich will leave you feeling satisfied, but only if accompanied by a nice cold beer brewed by one of your local favorites! Slice a loaf of Pain D’Avignon 7 Grain Bread thinly, spread a generous layer of My Friend’s Spicy Brown Mustard, add thinly sliced Berkshire Ham, shaved Grafton Cheddar and top with Brooklyn Brine’s Whiskey Sour Pickles (sliced the long way). Treat yourself to a cold 32-oz growler of Kelso Nut Brown Lager... You deserve it! COLD SANDWICH + LIGHTLY CHILLED RED WINE It doesn’t get any easier than this! Spread Nettle Meadow’s Chevre on a sliced Ciabattini by Il Forno, layer on Brooklyn Brine’s Fennel Beats and top with arugula. Serve with chilled Argyle Pinot Noir.
Brooklyn Bread
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August, 2011
Homegrown At Brooklyn Botanic Garden Saturday, June 11 in Prospect Heights
Gillian Chan, Liat Olenick
Isa Rodrigues, Maggie Herskovits
The scene
Daron Cheon, Hui Liang
Pulourie by Guyank Brand
Mike and Sam Falk
Dancing
Hannah Newman, Marko Orso
Heidi Tickle and Sari Surki
photographS by allen ying... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Page 39
Homegrown At Brooklyn Botanic Garden Saturday, June 11 in Prospect Heights
The Defibulators
Genevieve Zarnowski, Luis Santana, Lea Waltman
Betsy Jacobs
Caleb Leech, Uli Lorimer, Romi Ige
Nancy, Emerson
Rachel Graville, Jessica Flores
The Brooklyn Salsa Crew
photographS by allen ying... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Page 40
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Book Launch For “The Butcher’s Guide” Thursday, June 9 in DUMBO
photographS by Lawrence Sumulong
Tanya Knep and baby, author Alexandra Zissu
Dairo Chamorro
Dawn Raia
Julia Bloch
Craig Santiago
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Page 41
Book Launch For “The Butcher’s Guide To Well-Raised Meat” Thursday, June 9 in DUMBO
Bernie Moony, Nessa Black, Maria Kozic
The scene
Brian Ping, Pablo Lopez, Solomon P.
Cristina B, Vincenzo B, Gregorio T
Nicholas Karoly, Lindsay Pugnali
Olli Chanoff, Sarah Foster, Nadine Goellner
photographS by lawrence sumulong... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
Page 42
August, 2011
rhubarb, strawberries, apricots, nectarines, blueberries, cherries, plums, figs, apples, pears...it’s fruit season!
Four & Twenty Blackbirds 439 3rd Avenue at 8th Street Gowanus, Brooklyn www.birdsblack.com
Pie by the slice in the shop, whole pies are made to order with 24 hours notice. Please call to order: tel 718.499.2917
Mondays Tuesday to Friday: 8am–7pm Saturday: 9am–7pm Sunday: 10am–6pm
July, 2011
Brooklyn Bread
Page 43
Book Launch For “The Butcher’s Guide To Well-Raised Meat” Thursday, June 9 in DUMBO
Matthew Rosenberg, Marion Nestle
Jim Metze, Chris Metze
Alexandra Zissu signing her book, The Butcher’s Guide to Well-Raised Meat
Tom Mylan, Noah Bernamoff
Ron Silver, Joshua Applestone
Mary Amiriana, Tim Cooper
Syreeta McFadden, Ryan Britt, Alex Martin
Annette Trial-O’Neil, Joe Paciulla
photographS by Lawrence SUMUlong... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Page 44
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Page 45
The Total Smith Street Immersion Saturday, June 18 in Boerum Hill
Rachel Surwil, Ashley Golub, Lizzie Cheney, Douglas Calhoun, Lena Perez, Michele Mule, Karen Bitler
Rachel Surwil, Ashley Golub, Lizzie Cheney
Lena Perez, Michele Mule
Bryan Schneider, Jessica Wohlers
Mike Stein, Vanessa Verde
Tom Macy
Austin Klervowich, Douglas Calhoun, Nick Mells
photographS by lawrence sumulong... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
Page 46
August, 2011
Eat, Drink & Be Hopeful Benefit At Northside Piers Tuesday, June 7 in Williamsburg
Alina Preciado, Kelli Porterfiled
Laurel Stevens, Aaron Morrill
Geraldo Reyes, Bonny Sanchez
Pam Mackie, Leslie Hayes MD, Audrey Morre, Melinda Alexis-Hayes, Joycelynne Rainey
Guadalupe Torres, Alejandro Bonilla
Sophie Turcotte, Nathan Isherwood
Hama Schwartz, Shaya Elcock, Melissa Herder
photographS by kim madalinski... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
“In a café-crazed town, Iris is one of a kind.” “Best Café” in 2010 “Best of New York” issue, New York magazine Stumptown coffee ¯ Pastries, cookies and biscuits, all baked in-house All-day breakfast classics ¯ Sandwiches ¯ Salads For full menu and more details, visit us online at www.iriscafenyc.com 20 Columbia Place, b/w State & Joralemon | Brooklyn Heights | 718-722-7395 No computers or iPads please – take some time out from the real world!
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Page 47
Flour/Flower: Plants, Food and Beyond Kate Blumm of Brooklyn Botanic Garden writes on the wonderful world of horticulture
Ariel Nadelberg, the chef at Terrace Café, holds a bunch of fresh dragon carrots. Brooklyn Botanic Garden now incorporates their own produce in the café menu.
E
veryone’s had one of those typical museum lunch experiences, which tend to follow a formula. Excitedly go to worldrenowned cultural institution. Walk around for a few hours, absorbing a massive amount of information into your already highly educated brain. Eventually realize that you’ve been staring at the same painting, plant or diorama for 15 minutes, eyes glazed over, blood sugar spookily low. Wander to museum’s café — almost all have one and it’s usually the closest and easiest place to feed yourself — only to be confronted by a squadron of hot dogs, burgers and chicken salad sandwiches. Feel sorry for yourself but settle for it: you’re under the influence of museum brain anyway. Well, at Brooklyn Botanic Garden we’re putting our proverbial foot down on that predictable scenario. If you’ve visited lately, you may have noticed that we’ve kicked our café operation to a new level, one that better befits an institution viewed by many as a role model for conservation and sustainable practices.
Beginning in late 2010, the Garden began to work with the café management to rejuvenate the visitor food operation, carefully analyzing and brainstorming to figure out how to align the dining experience here with BBG’s values. Dramatic changes were instituted, and now visitors encounter a totally redone menu, devised largely by Ariel Nadelberg, the café’s newly appointed chef. The menu emphasizes vegetables and whole grains, while showcasing meat in smaller quantities. There is a roster of six or seven daily specials, like pastas, soups, grains and a cheese plate, all featuring ingredients largely sourced from local growers and producers. These are the fundamentals that will guide the café for years to come and place it squarely within the echelon of Brooklyn’s renewed food culture. Nadelberg (and her customers) have a unique advantage in the city: the ability to serve and eat fruit and vegetables harvested just a few hundred feet from the café itself, pulled from BBG’s own Herb Garden. It’s something like a dream for a hardcore locavore
chef. “I got mustard greens, dragon carrots, rhubarb, purslane, spring onions and sorrel this week,” says Nadelberg dreamily. Each of the ingredients she harvests from the Herb Garden — in collaboration with that garden’s curator Caleb Leech — get incorporated into the café’s offerings. This week, for example, mustard greens showed up in the special quiche and pasta salad; rhubarb made it into the kale salad, and the herbs made it into... just about everything. And in keeping with the Garden’s summer theme, “Native New Yorkers,” the Café is highlighting a native edible plant each month. August’s plant is the blackberry, rubus fruticosis, which has turned up in many menu offerings. Plus, the drink program showcases Gorilla Coffee, Kombucha Brooklyn, as well as sweets by Ladybird in Park Slope. Next time you’re in the Garden—or just in the neighborhood—with the hot sun beating down upon your poor head and a brain foggy with hunger, you won’t have to settle for a sad sandwich: our earthly temptations await you!
Brooklyn Bread
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August, 2011
Definition of FIND (find)
1. To come upon, often by accident; meet with. i.e. FIND a unique collection of home furnishings in an unlikely location 2. To discover by searching or making an effort: i.e. FIND beautiful things for your home while traversing 9th St., Gowanus
59 9th Street (between Smith & Second) 718.369.2705
findhomefurnishings.com
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
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Eat, Drink & Be Hopeful Benefit At Northside Piers Tuesday, June 7 in Williamsburg
photographS by kim madalinski
Joe Santos
Christina Lemos
Miami Comes to Brooklyn
Kimberly Gohab, Chad Baldante, Steven McEnrue
Ranked #1 Cuban restaurant in the five boroughs by Yelp Serving up mostly traditional Cuban dishes from a foodie approach (such as our house-smoked Spanish chorizo which flavors many of our dishes) while leaving room to play around with ingredients (such as our grilled cheese that has fried sweet plantains and our espresso mustard)
Catering Available 393 Classon Ave (b/w Greene and Clifton) in Clinton Hill/Bed Stuy 718-623 Cuba (2822) Pilarny.com find us on
Kai Lewis
Jonathan Murray
pilarny
closed mondays
–
limited seating
Brooklyn Bread
Page 50
August, 2011
Eat, Drink & Be Hopeful Benefit At Northside Piers Tuesday, June 7 in Williamsburg
Andrew Zimmerman, Michael Landman
Lori Burch, Geraldine Viggiano
Beth Gismervik, Michael Seaman
Juan Rodriguez, Lica Woulters
Serwaa Opare
Elizabeth and John Kingman
Ilona Berlyand, Roman Glukhman
Craig Lowenstern, Calvin Morre II
Kohl Lewis
photographS by kim madalinski... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Page 51
Poetry + Pie At Four And Twenty Blackbirds Sunday, June 5 in Gowanus
Alina Preciado, Kelli Porterfiled
Robert Kocik and Daria Fain perform
Larissa, Chase, Gabriel, Clarinda
Eva Yaa Asantewaa, fortune reading for Linda Addison
photographS by allen ying... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Page 52
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Poetry + Pie At Four And Twenty Blackbirds Sunday, June 5 in Gowanus
photographS by allen ying
Marie Bresnahan, Katrina Busselle
Chef Sam Richman with the veggie plates
Jenny Lefcourt, James Robinson, Tami Williams
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Page 53
Poetry + Pie At Four And Twenty Blackbirds Sunday, June 5 in Gowanus
Lorenzo Sanguedolce, Jessa Fisher
Lauren Angelo, Eileen Koretz, Casey Angelo
Emily Elsen, Sam Richman
Courtney Cook, Effie Bowen, Lauren Bakst
Dina Bleecker, Joanne Nerenberg
Jessa Fisher, Willa Carroll, Amanda Drozer
Terence Taylor, Linda Addison
Brock and Kate Hill
photographS by allen ying... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
Page 54
August, 2011
Second Annual Crawfish Boil At Sycamore Saturday, June 4 in Ditmas Park
Amari Pocock, Kate Fisher, Linda Barba
Tomi Akanbi, Marlena Brown
Beckett Unterberg
Mauricio Garcia, Regina Mojica
Jason Staiger, Jessie Faneuil
Pietta and Maggie Donovan
Kimberly Chow, Eugene Markman, Cathy Lee
photographS by kim madalinski... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Page 55
Second Annual Crawfish Boil At Sycamore Saturday, June 4 in Ditmas Park
Naomi Baxter, Karen Baxter-Pender
Cara Winter, Jessica Hische
Chantel Antonetti, Todd Zino
Kyle Mozlin, Christian Cooley
Suet Chong, Michael Chan
Erika Sackin, Christian Cooley
photographS by kim madalinski... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
fresh pastries artisanal breads desserts custom cakes
448 atlantic avenue, boerum hill 718.246.2402 bettybakery.com Tue-Fri 7:30-7 Sat 9-7 Sun 11-5
Page 56
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Second Annual Crawfish Boil At Sycamore Saturday, June 4 in Ditmas Park
photographS by kim madalinski
Russ Maschmeyer
Don Aliperti, Connie Giblin
Craig Canton, Amari Pocock
Glen Pender, Patrick Patterson
Chris and Penelope Robertson
Eugene Markman, Jonathan Casilli
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Page 57
Bartender Of The Month
W
David Moo of Quarter... Interview by Bec Couche
e propped up the bar with mixologist and Quarter owner David Moo, 40, about his history of making cocktails, and how to solve the problem of naming one after an ex-girlfriend. How did you become interested in cocktails? It’s a long story. I used to hang out at Barramundi, an Australian bar on the Lower East Side. One of their bartenders became the bar manager of the music venue Tonic, and I ended up working there with him for years. Around the corner from Tonic, this guy with high-waisted pants and a wife beater on was opening a bar – Sasha Petraske. He was a young, retroobsessed bar guy – in no way the guru of classic cocktails he is now. We became friends and started paying attention to how drinks were made. We read books that Sasha would suggest, and back at our bar, while we were serving gin and tonics, we would secretly mix fresh juice cocktails. It became a perennial interest of mine. Where did you go from there? I took a job at Last Exit, which is in no way a cocktail bar, but you could make drinks and serve them there. There was a regular who was also a bartender, and he was connected to the whole world of high-end restaurants with cocktail bars. When he left he shoehorned me into his position at West. Suddenly I had access to a full kitchen, high-end liquor and management supporting the cocktail idea. How did that lead to being a part owner of Quarter? One of the owners, Joe Herring, is constantly in motion – he was generating a new concept and told me his next bar might be a high-end cocktail bar. I told him I’d be interested in that, and it turned out he’d already started construction on a raw space on 5th Avenue and 20th Street. I came down here, and here we are. Why did he pick this location? In general Joe is a curious person and always trying to open more businesses. He was in Ireland visiting his parents, and came across an old photo of a place called “McManuses Cozy.” It reminded him of a terrible bar called Coze Lounge, on Fifth and 20th. He thought of it as a sign. When he came back to NYC, he drove past and sure enough saw a “For Rent” sign, so he rented it. What’s the crowd like in here? Mostly a
“In our business, that’s considered coming in a bit high – to demand a new cocktail on the spot from a bartender,” David Moo says. His girlfriend made the request in 2007 and the drink is still on the menu. Lawrence Sumulong
local crowd, but we in no way look down on those whose wallets are lighter than others. We are as interested in those drinking PBR to those drinking cocktails – our clientele reflects that. It’s mostly local, but the garden is the sweetest garden in Brooklyn. It draws people from further away. What’s the tale behind the Greenwood Cooler cocktail? Right before the bar opened in 2007 I went away for a last few days of freedom with this girl I was dating. We stayed at a B&B in Greenport, Long Island, and the proprietor suggested we go to a local restaurant for a wine tasting. When we sat down, they had a carafe of water sitting on the bar with lemon and cucumber wheels and a spray of mint steeping in it. I was very taken. That girl sat here at the bar that summer drinking all the cocktails. One night in August she said, “David, I want you to make me something, but I want it to be new.” In our business, that’s considered coming in a bit high – to
demand a new cocktail on the spot from a bartender. I thought about the things we had done together, and it occurred to me I should make a cocktail modeled from that glass of summer-scented water. But this cocktail isn’t called the Greenport Cocktail… Well, a month and a half later, I broke up with her. At some point I questioned why I still had a drink on the menu named after a glass of water I had with a girl I don’t date anymore. The bar I own is in Greenwood Heights, named after the cemetery down the street, so I changed the name to the Greenwood Cooler. Good solution. I thought so.
Greenwood Cooler Cucumber, lemon and mint leaves muddled with simple syrup Grapefruit juice Ice, vodka and a fill of soda water Quarter, 5th Avenue and 20th Street, 718788-0989, quarterbarbrooklyn.com.
Brooklyn Bread
Page 58
August, 2011
The Food Cyclists Host Farm Aid Benefit At Roberta’s Saturday, May 28 in Bushwick
Angela Kelly, Brian Kelley
Kate and John Suscovich, former BB photographer
Kathy Pomerantz
photographS by kim madalinski... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Page 59
Shopping Local
Kim Madalinski shops the finest goods from Brooklyn stores and artisans
Pelican Hat
Octopus Bracelet From Owliday
From Mollusk Surf Shop
Surfing Girl From She Hit Pause Studios
Not all of native New Yorker Maya Swedowsky’s jewelry is as aquatic as this octopus bracelet. Just the same, her whimsical, old-world designs look as if they might have bubbled up from 20,000 leagues under the sea. $24 at Owliday Inn at etsy.com.
“A tribute to one of the consistently best surfers in the line up,” is how Mollusk Surf Shop describes this hat. They can outfit you with clothes printed with mermaids, jellyfish and, of course, surfer dudes. $20 at Mollusk Surf Shop, 210 Kent Avenue, mollusksurfshop.com.
Matt Schwartz’s photography makes modern day beach scenes feel like something you unearthed in an attic. He loves Coney Island and surfing. He captured this surfer girl and her perfect splash at Long Beach. $75 at Fort Greene and Williamsburg Brooklyn Fleas, shehitpausestudios.com.
Whale Pillows By Kate Durkin
Saltwater Soap From Saipua
Kate Durkin specializes in prints and hand embroidered pillows – mostly of creatures like these lovable whales. Buy one for the child in your life – and another to swim the seas of your sofa. $26 at the Fort Greene Brooklyn Flea and katedurkin.com.
Saipua makes perfect floral and herb soaps in their studio and flower shop in Red Hook. This saltwater soap incorporates nori seaweed, rosemary and patchouli and is packaged so nicely you might never unwrap it. $10 at Saipua, 147 Van Dyke Street, saipua.com.
Pirate Ship Onesie From Winter Water Factory These Organic Mini Pirate Snapsuits by Winter Water Factory are fast sellers. Get them while they’re still atport! $34 at Sweet William, 12 N 6th Street and online at winterwaterfactory.com.
Brooklyn Bread
Page 60
August, 2011
The Food Cyclists Host Farm Aid Benefit At Roberta’s Saturday, May 28 in Bushwick
Matthew McCarthy, Tawnya Crawford, Dottie McCarthy
Scott Messina, Stephen Hubner
Chad Lefebvre, John Suscovich, Crawford Forbes
Kate Suscovich and Erin Woytowicz
Grace Woytowicz, Margie Tymula
Hector Mir, Jessica Heideman
Mike and Mary Hardgrove
Jill Carroll, Dave Suscovich
photographS by kim madalinski... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Page 61
The Food & Drink Crossword
If you love food and drink and you love Brooklyn, this is for you. By Jason Greenberg and Emily Parfait LOVE crosswords? Great. Sit down, grab your favorite beverage, relax and enjoy this puzzle, which revolves around local food and drink businesses. The solution can be found on the front page of BrooklynBreadPress.com. No peeking! (Or Googling.)
Across 2. Peter Piper picked a peck of these. 4 . This Carroll Gardens restaurant is also the name of a summertime fabric favored by prepsters. 10. An appropriate name for this hot dog joint on Flatbush Avenue. 13 . A Canadian province that shares its name with this bar on Grand Street in Williamsburg. 14 . This is the name for the American version of prosciutto. 16 . The third little piggy had this, but the next little piggy had none! 18 . This Park Slope restaurant recently won
the best new neighborhood spot from Time Out New York. _______ ____ Tavern 21 . If you make an irrelevant comparison, someone might say that you’re comparing ____ __ _____. 23 . Dom DeMarco’s legendary pizza in Midwood. 24 . Park Slope cafe where King Kong might stop by to pick up his his morning cup of coffee. 25 . This popular Gowanus venue is aptly named for the music left “ringing” in your ears. Down
Nothing fuzzy about it... 7 Down.
1 . This is the peanut butter covered log on which your raisin ants sit. 3 . When asked what the people of France should do for food, Marie Antoinette allegedly replied: “Let them eat _____.” 5 . This brewery’s star logo is ubiquitous in bars, especially in Brooklyn where its brewed. 6 . The name of this classic Latin dish literally translates in English as “little
donkey.” 7 . This close relative of the king of all handheld summer fruits doesn’t need to shave. 8 . These tasty crustaceans are affectionately referred to as “mud bugs” in the state of Louisiana. 9 . Wine varietal Syrah is also called ______, depending on where it is made 11 . This iconic brand of white loaves was a major sponsor of the Howdy Doody Show 12 . “Too many cooks in the kitchen spoils the ______.” 15 . If you’re of the punny sort, you might say that a wealthy baker is _____ __ ____ . 17. This bitter green, technically called “rapini,” is a member of the turnip family, though you’d associate it with another vegetable. It’s commonly found in Italian food. 19 . This would be the perfect cake pan for a batter. 20 . This cocktail bar in Prospect Heights was designed and named after its owner, Kathryn Weatherup 22 . Garfield’s favorite food.
Brooklyn Bread
Page 62
August, 2011
The Food Cyclists Host Farm Aid Benefit At Roberta’s Saturday, May 28 in Bushwick
Scott Messina, Sandy Vojta, Stephen Hubner
Kristin Horn, Sandy Vojta, Liza Mueller, Kate Suscovich
Emily Parfait, Jason Greenburg
Danielle Malone, Joe Suscovich
Crawford Forbes, Liz Levine
James Gironta, Brian Quinn
photographS by kim madalinski... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
August, 2011
Page 63
2011 Rate Card Every month, 7,000 copies of hot and tasty Brooklyn Bread are delivered to 400 selected food and drink establishments in the wonderful borough of Brooklyn. {Visit BrooklynBreadPress.com for the full list}
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