BROOKLYN
BREAD Good Food News « Delivered Fresh
INSIDE...
Tasty Things To Try This Weekend PAGES 4-5
Thursday, December 16, 2010 « Vol. 1, No. 5 « Free Publication « Brooklyn, NY
My Perfect Day... By Craig Samuel PAGE 15
Could You Give Sam A Loving Home? PAGE 17
Murray McCormack Gray, David Gray, and Sido Klotz at a fundraiser, Eat Pie and Shop, held at PS29 in Cobble Hill last week. Photograph by John Suscovich – see pages 25-26 for more.
Behind The Bar At Maracuja With Charlie PAGE 37
Please do NOT pick up this FREE paper unless you want to be inspired and informed by irresistible Brooklyn food and drink.
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Almanac
BROOKLYN BREAD
Thursday, December 16, 2010
From The Editors
Our Team
THURSDAY December 16 Partly cloudy
Editor Danielle Franca Swift
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Editor Jack Wright
High Temperature: 35 Low Temperature: 26 Chance of Rain: 20% Sunrise: 7:13am Sunset: 4:30pm Moon phase: 71% visible
FRIDAY December 17 Mostly sunny
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High Temperature: 36 Low Temperature: 27 Chance of Rain: 10% Sunrise: 7:14am Sunset: 4:30pm Moon phase: 79% visible
SATURDAY December 18 Partly cloudy
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High Temperature: 35 Low Temperature: 28 Chance of Rain: 10% Sunrise: 7:15am Sunset: 4:31pm Moon phase: 87% visible
SUNDAY December 19 Mostly cloudy
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High Temperature: 36 Low Temperature: 28 Chance of Rain: 10% Sunrise: 7:15am Sunset: 4:31pm Moon phase: 93% visible
Project Manager Dan Mathers Assistant Editor Jon Roth
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ELCOME to the fifth issue of Brooklyn’s (relatively) new food and drink magazine. Whether you are a new or returning reader, here’s a snapshot of what’s in this issue: there are tasty things to try in the borough this weekend (pages 4 and 5); an events guide that will have you salivating (page 7); recipes for French onion soup (page 8), Portuguese honey bread (page 8), rye and bourbon cocktails (page 11), amazing Brussels sprouts (page 19), parsnips for breakfast (page 23); an inspiring food tour with the owner of Peaches in Bed-Stuy (page 15); an interview with the man behind the bar, and the renovations, at Macaruja (page 37)... and photographic coverage of events from a celebration of cupcakes to a pie social at a school in Cobble Hill. It all adds up to one thing – a celebration of Brooklyn’s diverse food culture... the people who produce the goods, and the people who enjoy them. That’s what makes Brooklyn Bread different from any publication you’ve ever seen. Our last issue of 2010 will be published on Wednesday, December 23. And then, with the winter solstice around the corner, we are changing our frequency to once a month through early spring. Our first monthly issue will appear on January 27. In between times, you can follow us on Twitter and Facebook, where we will be discussing all things good about food and drink in the beautiful borough of Brooklyn. Danielle Franca Swift & Jack Wright
Contributing Editor Jason Greenberg Illustrator Liza Corsillo Advertising Sales Erica Izenberg Jen Messier Contributors Brooklyn Public Library, Emily Elsen, Melissa Elsen, Cathy Erway, Sara Franklin, Sarah McColl, Laura Nuter Photographers Jen Campbell, Kelly Conaty, Jennifer Forchelli, Justin Nunnink, Lawrence Sumulong, John Suscovich, Allen Ying Brooklyn Bread is published every Thursday by Brooklyn Bread Press P.O. Box 150026 Brooklyn, NY 11215 (917) 740-1072 www.brooklynbreadpress.com Follow us on Facebook @BrooklynBreadPress Printed on recycled paper using soy-based inks.
Thursday, December 16, 2010
BROOKLYN BREAD
Inside This Issue
A smorgasbord of photographs, advice, wisdom and wit! Things To Try This Weekend 4-5 How about a couple days filled with treats both inspiring and indulgent?
The Events Guide 7 Plenty of ways to enjoy yourself in the week ahead.
Humble Pie 8 A weekly helping from the folks at Four and Twenty Blackbirds.
The Cheese Report 8 Laura Nuter offers a soup that’s perfect for this cold weather.
Cupcakes Take The Cake Sixth Anniversary Party Celebrating six years of cupcake blogging at The Brooklyn Winery p6-14
Good Bread 8 This week, a recipe for Portuguese honey bread.
A Lily And A Loaf Of Bread 11 Sarah McColl on the differences between whiskey, bourbon and rye.
A Perfect Day In Brooklyn 15 Join Craig Samuel of Bed-Stuy’s Peaches as he plans a day to remember.
Adopt An Animal 17
Un-Supersize Me: Mini Food Competition And Art Show Hosted by Greenpoint Open Studios & Fowler Arts Collective p16-27
Three adorable dogs need homes and loving owners. Can you help?
Try This At Home! 19 Cathy Erway shows us how to enjoy the best food around... in our own homes.
Edible History Of Brooklyn 21 The man who was famous for tying salami knots!
From Soil To Plate 23 Sara Franklin on how to create a root cellar in your apartment.
Eat Pie And Shop Hosted By PS29 Holiday Gift Fair and Pie Social Fundraiser p25-26
The Big Picture 32 Comes to you from the Cupcakes take the Cake anniversary party.
Café Of The Week 35 We visit Café Regular in Park Slope to say hello and chat to the customers.
Bartender Of The Week 37 Charlie Kaim of Maracuja.
Brooklyn Bread Rate Card 39
The Foodshed Market At The Commons
Everything you need to know!
Edible delights in Boerum Hill p34-38
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BROOKLYN BREAD
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Thursday, December 16, 2010
Tasty Things To Try This Weekend
Your fun guide to some serious eating in the wonderful borough of Brooklyn... by Jason Greenberg Red Velvet Doughnut at Peter Pan Donut and Pastry Shop Greenpoint’s Peter Pan Donut and Pastry Shop has been serving daily-made, handcut donuts and pastries for years and has become famous for it. Regulars and outof–towners congregate daily around the retro-vibed stools which stand around the S-shaped counter. They come for the great coffee, off-the-menu breakfast sandwiches and an assortment of pastries. Owner Donna Siafakas and her husband run the shop and are still using a 59-year-old recipe to create their donuts. The focus is, and always has been, on making the best donuts by hand, despite the difficulty of staying true to tradition and maintaining the high quality. Among the 20 or so varieties (including seasonal specialties) the red velvet donut, which you are unlikely to find anywhere else, might be their masterpiece. It is lightly glazed and each bite is sweet with a hint of cocoa flavor. For a mere 90 cents, you should probably grab a few. You’ll thank us. Peter Pan Donut & Pastry Shop, 727 Manhattan Avenue, Greenpoint, 718-389-3676.
Enjoy classic whiskey cocktails at Dram, on Williamsburg’s south side, or try their new concoction, the Madero Road, invented by one of the bartenders.
Porchetta at BKLYN Larder After pioneering the new crop of pizzerias in New York, owners Andrew Feinberg and Francine Stephens opened BKLYN Larder across from their Flatbush Avenue institution, Franny. Many of the products used at Franny can be found at BKLYN Larder, a specialty market with a heavy hand in Italian products. The store offers an assortment of dried pastas, cured meats, small production artisanal cheeses (kept in a custommade cheese room), housemade gelato and prepared foods like beef, veal and pork
Above: Sensational chocolate from those talented boys at Mast Brothers. Perfect for gifts, perfect for you!
meatballs, duck confit and a delicious porchetta. A Central Italian specialty, porchetta is slow-roasted pork that is generously seasoned with herbs and spices and then typically sliced thin. The Larder’s version is a five-day process using Heritage pork, Tuscan fennel pollen and garlic. It is available by the pound or as a sandwich. The sandwich is created by toasting sliced bread rubbed with raw garlic, adding slightly warmed porchetta, a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of sea salt. It is then pressed thin on a panini press, resulting in a crusty, buttery melt-inyour-mouth sandwich that’s bursting with flavors. And keeping with its commitment to sustainable and local products, BKLYN Larder was awarded a snail of approval from
It takes a lot more effort to make your own donuts... taste these creations at the Peter Pan Donut and Pastry Shop and you’ll soon realize it’s well worth it.
Thursday, December 16, 2010
BROOKLYN BREAD
Page 5 a platter for a group (with white bread and honey) or as a dinner for one (white bread, mashed potatoes with gravy, collard greens with bacon and a side of honey). Crispy, salty and incredibly moist (even the white meat), it’s everything you want a perfect piece of fried chicken to be. White meat, dark meat or a little of both – however you order, it’s a strike... Brooklyn Bowl, 61 Wythe Avenue, Williamsburg, 718-963-3369, brooklynbowl.com.
The Madero Road at Dram
Not your average piece of porchetta... BKLYN Larder, in Prospect Heights, offers extraordinary choice cuts.
Slow Food NYC. BKLYN Larder, 228 Flatbush Avenue, Prospect Heights, 718-783-1250, bklynlarder.com.
Almond and Sea Salt Bar from Mast Brothers Chocolate This masterpiece is made with organic cane sugar, hand-harvested French sea salt, organically raised almonds from California that are roasted in olive oil, and crumbled on top of a single-origin Dominican Republic dark chocolate made from beans that are roasted, cracked, winnowed, aged and stone-ground here in Brooklyn. The ingredients listed on a Mast Brothers chocolate bar reads like an artisanal guidebook for ethical food lovers. Even a small break of this shiny bar releases an intense aroma. The taste is tart, slightly acidic and salty with a rich deep chocolate flavor that melts and slowly lingers in your mouth. A Hershey’s bar this is not. Mast Brothers Chocolate, 105 North 3rd Street, Williamsburg, 718-3882625, mastbrotherschocolate.com.
Northern Fried Chicken at Brooklyn Bowl Brooklyn Bowl offers many things – music, beer, bowling, big-screen TVs. In short, it’s an orgy for the senses. However, skipping the food by the brothers Eric and Bruce Bromberg who operate the Blue Ribbon restaurants, would be an unfortunate mistake. The menu features options like several
French bread pizzas, an oyster po’ boy, ribs and mac and cheese, but it’s the northernstyle fried chicken that makes the rest of the menu’s items simply fade away. The chicken pieces are soaked in egg whites and then dredged in a flour mixture that contains their secret ingredient, matzoth meal. This creates a perfectly crispy crust with each bite. They are then dusted with a special seasoning unique to Brooklyn Bowl and served as
Opened this past March, Dram, on Williamsburg’s south side, features a constantly rotating menu of seasonal and original specialty cocktails. Bartenders craft cocktails with as much thought and care as a chef creating a dish for a restaurant menu. The Madero Road, currently a highlight, was dreamed up by bartender Jeremy Oertel. It features lapsong souhcon infused represado tequila, orange bitters, cocchi Americano (an Italian aperitif wine), Benedictine and dolin sweet vermouth. The result is an intense layering of flavors. Sweet, bitter, smoky and refreshing, its served ice cold in a coupe glass. A thoughtful drink, for a thoughtful late-night conversation. Dram, 177 South 4th Street, Williamsburg, 718-4863726, drambar.com.
Below: You’ve heard all about southern style... how about trying some Northern Fried Chicken at Brooklyn Bowl, in Williamsburg. Try it and you might never head south again.
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bicycle station
Bicycle Station
Thursday, December 16, 2010
Cupcakes Take The Cake Sixth Anniversary Party Tuesday, December 7 at the Brooklyn Winery PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH
“The Bicycle Station is a godsend for cyclists...” Time Out New York
Nora Vetter of Nibbles by Nora
TUNE-UPS v REPAIRS RESTORATIONS v SALES Owner Mike has more than 30 years of experience in bike maintenance and care We are open through the fall and winter and offer excellent prices for off-season sales and repairs
Cupcake groupies of the world unite
$45 TUNE-UPS! Get your bike tuned up and be ready to ride this spring 171 Park Avenue, corner of Adelphi 1 block from Flushing Avenue (718) 638-0300 bicycylestationbrooklyn.com Jennifer Santana, Yuri Sieman of Baked In A Cup
Thursday, December 16, 2010
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The Brooklyn Food & Drink Events Guide
’Tis the season to indulge yourselves... here are some tips on doing that, and also supporting local businesses 12/11–12/23 SOLA’s 12 Days of Christmas Shops of Lewis Avenue (SOLA) Merchants Association invites you to 12 Days of Christmas. Peaches will host “Holiday Mixology” on 12/16 where you will learn how to make holiday cocktails. The event runs from 7-10pm and features half-price drinks. Head over to Bread Stuy on the 19th from 2-6pm for “Ginger Bread Stuy” where you and your family can build and decorate gingerbread houses and then bring your yummy masterpiece home. For more information and a list of participating merchants visit bedstuyblog.com.
12/18 Fresh Donuts With The Creator Of “Who Needs Donuts?” At Brooklyn Farmacy Mark Stamaty wrote and illustrated Who Needs Donuts? for publication in 1973 – it’s technically a children’s book, but crack it open and it can hold the most serious grownup’s attention for hours. Well-known for his work in the Village Voice and his strip in the New York Times Book Review, Stamaty will be on hand to discuss his work, his thoughts on donuts, and more this Saturday. You can pick up a signed copy of his book (back by popular demand after 30 years) and enjoy some of the best donuts in the borough courtesy of the Peter Pan Donut and Pastry Shop. Event begins at 10am. Brooklyn Farmacy, 513 Henry Street, Carroll Gardens, 718.522.6260, brooklynfarmacy.blogspot.com.
12/19 Brooklyn Brewery’s “Real Estate” Brooklyn Brewery’s free live music series Local X Local celebrates the best in locally brewed arts, music, beer and bites. The final installment of the 2010 season will be held at Brooklyn Bowl, featuring music from Real Estate, $4 Brooklyn Lager, and chips and artisanal salsa from The Brooklyn Salsa Company. Event begins at 7pm. Brooklyn Bowl, 61 Wythe Avenue, between N. 11th and N. 12th, Williamsburg, brooklynbowl.com/calendar.
12/19 First Annual Beerfest at Roberta’s Head to Roberta’s for a beerfest where eight teams compete for prizes, music plays all night and you can soak up all that beer with some of the tastiest pizza in the borough. Roberta’s, 261 Moore Street, Bushwick, 718-4171118, robertaspizza.com.
12/19 Cookie Takedown At The Bell House The holidays are a time for baked goods. The
thing about baked goods is you can never have enough. If you’re looking for a real cookie convention, don’t miss the Cookie Takedown at Bell House. There will be an all-you-care-to-eat spread of 30 different kinds of cookies to enjoy. If you arrive during the first hour, you can wash down that sugary goodness with free Egg Nog (with a little extra nog provided by Bulleit Bourbon). Guests can also enter a free raffle to win a five-piece Anolon Bakeware set. Event begins at 6pm. The Bell House, 149 7th Street, Gowanus, 718-643-6510. Tickets available at thebellhouseny.com/calendar.
12/19 Last New Amsterdam Market Of 201 The New Amsterdam Market promotes regional economic development by supporting small businesses dedicated to creating local food systems and to reviving the thriving culture of the urban public marketplace. Stop by between 11am and 4pm to pick up fresh bread, dairy, wine, meats, fish and all kinds of organic edibles. Local vendors include Fine & Raw Chocolate, Brooklyn Cured, Home/Made, Kombucha Brooklyn, Schoolhouse Kitchen, and Liddabit Sweets. Some merchants are taking holiday pre-orders on select goods including Seedy Gift Baskets from the Hudson Valley Seed Library and discounted Bellwether Cider,
so visit newamsterdammarket.org to make an order! New Amsterdam Market, South Street and Peckslip by the Fulton Fish Market, (212) 7668688, newamsterdammarket.org.
12/20 Whiskey Tasting At Sycamore Looking to wet your whistle and learn something too? Head over to Sycamore in Ditmas Park for the first installment of their Whiskey-Tasting Series and explore the world of Irish Single Malts. Sycamore’s whiskey expert Dave Mahler will take you through a docket of single malts including Connemara, Knappogue, Michael Collins, Clontarf and Tyrconnell. The cost is $25 per person, and complimentary snacks are included in the tasting. Spots are going fast, so sign up now! Sycamore, 1118 Cortelyou Road, Prospect Park South, 347-240-5850, sycamorebrooklyn.com.
12/21 World Dumplings Cooking Class at Brooklyn Brainery This coming Tuesday, the Brainery’s World Dumplings series turns to Japan and China. Learn about gyoza (your standard dumpling), as well as wontons, shumai and the awe-inspiring soup dumpling. Cost of the class is just $15! This class meets at The Gowanus Studio Space, 166 7th Street, Brooklyn, brooklynbrainery.com.
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Humble Pie
TWITTER BREADCRUMBS GreeneGrocery Recipe: Roasted Plums and Creamy Chai Rice Pudding http://fb.me/LB9EzAEA Dec 12th.
By Emily and Melissa Elsen, of Four and Twenty Blackbirds, 439 3rd Avenue, Gowanus E’VE been nerding out a bit lately on some textbook-style, scientific insights on pastry. Not to get all molecular or anything, but there is quite a bit of documentation available on the science of baking. Right now we’re pretty excited about On Food and Cooking, The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, by Harold McGee, first published in 1984. It’s really like a textbook of food science and history. We’ll save the science for another day and share an excerpt on the history of the wonderful word “pie”... “The English word pastry, Italian pasta, and French pâte and pâté all go back to a suggestive group of ancient Greek words having to do with small particles and fine textures: they variously referred to powder, salt, barley, porridge, cake, and an embroidered veil. A later Latin derivative, pasta, was applied to flour that had been wetted to a paste, then dried: it led to Italian pasta and to pâte meaning “dough”. Pâté is a medieval French word that was given originally to a chopped meat preparation enclosed in a dough, but eventually came to name the meat preparations itself, with or without enclosure. “Pie was the near equivalent of the original pâté in medieval English, and meant a dish of any sort – meat, fish, vegetable, fruit – enclosed in pastry. The word had less to do with doughs than with odds and ends: it came from magpie, a bird with variegated coloring that collects miscellaneous objects for its nest.” Now you know!
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ruthreichl Dreary day. Crying sky. Giant puff of pancake from the oven, drizzled with lemon, dusted with sugared berries. Sunshine on a plate. Dec 12th. ChristineMuhlke The next-tolast Field Report! Satsuma season in New Orleans w an accidental farmer: http://nyti. ms/eiQQap Dec 9th. RuthBourdain Cupcakes are the opiates of the masses. Dec 9th HRNupdates Did you see Amy & Romy from Purple Yam on NY1 this morning? Check them out on HRN from 06/2009 before they opened http://tinyurl. com/2ea92rb Dec 8th.
Cheese Report
By Laura Nuter, of Grab Specialty Foods, 438 7th Avenue, Park Slope
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DON’T know about you guys, but this kind of bone-chilling weather makes me crave a nice, hot and hearty bowl of soup. Not a cup... a bowl. I want it as my main meal, with a few slices of crusty bread, sitting in front of the fireplace with friends and a glass of red wine by my side. Needless to say, it must be loaded with cheese! French Onion Soup (serves 6) 3 large yellow onions, cut through the stem, then sliced in the same direction 1/4-inch thick
Thursday, December 16, 2010
3 tbsp butter (unsalted) 1/4 port wine 1 tbsp dark balsamic vinegar 2 quarts chicken stock (homemade or organic) 1 1/2 garlic cloves, minced 1 bouquet garni Kosher salt to taste Freshly ground black pepper 6 slices of toasted pane sesame bread, approximately 3/4 inch thick 1 1/2 cups Cave Aged Gruyere cheese, grated 1/2 cup ParmigianoReggiano, grated Use a large 6-quart Dutch oven or large stock pot. Heat butter over medium heat. Add the onions all at once, coat with the butter and stir frequently for about 20 minutes or so, making sure the onions do not burn and are an even dark, golden color. Turn up the heat to mediumhigh and add the port wine and vinegar, scraping and lifting the caramelized onions and butter off the bottom of the pan. Add the chicken stock, bouquet garni and garlic and bring to a boil. Cook for about 10 minutes at higher heat and then reduce heat and add salt and pepper and let simmer for about 45 minutes to an hour, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Remove the bouquet garni. Mix the Gruyere and Parmigiano-Reggiano together. Preheat the broiler. Place the crocks on a cookie sheet. Ladle the soup into the 6 ovenproof crocks, filling to one inch below the top of the crock. Place the toasted sesame bread into the bowls on top of the broth and sprinkle about 1/4 to 1/3 cup of Gruyere and Parmigiano-Reggiano mix onto each slice. Place under the broiler for 3-4 minutes or until the cheese melts to a crispy golden brown and bubbles around the edges. Allow the soup to cool for 3-5 minutes prior to serving. Serve with extra toasted sesame bread on the side.
Good Bread
Portuguese Honey Bread From Gourmet, 12/06 Yields: 6 small loaves 2 1/2 sticks unsalted butter 3/4 cup dried cranberries or dried sour cherries 3/4 cup chopped mixed finequality candied fruit 1/4 cup Port 1 1/4 cups walnuts 4 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 tsp baking soda 1/2 tsp ground ginger 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 1/4 tsp ground cloves 1 cup sugar 3 large eggs 3 tsp active dry yeast 1/4 cup warm water 3/4 cup molasses 1/2 cup mild honey 6 small metal loaf pans Preheat oven to 325°F. Butter loaf pans. Bring cranberries, candied fruit, and Port to a simmer in saucepan. Remove from heat and set aside, covered. Pulse walnuts in processor. Add flour, salt, baking soda, and spices and combine. Beat butter and sugar in a bowl until pale and fluffy. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well. Stir yeast and warm water in a small bowl and let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. Add a third of flour mixture to butter mixture and mix at low speed until combined, then add molasses and mix. Add half of remaining flour mixture and combine, then add honey and mix until incorporated. Add yeast and remaining flour and mix until combined, then stir in candied-fruit mixture. Divide batter among pans, smoothing tops. (Do not let batter rise.) Bake 50 to 60 minutes.
BROOKLYN BREAD
Thursday, December 16, 2010
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Cupcakes Take The Cake Sixth Anniversary Party Tuesday, December 7 at the Brooklyn Winery
Melissa Zhang with a Nibbles By Nora cupcake
Grace Hinra-Czkelab, Debbie Kim
Shari Ledguster, Shirley Renelique
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
The ONE-STOP SHOP for a greener home & life
Green in BKLYN invites you to stop in for holiday gifts and a chance to win a little something… Enter our second annual drawing for the 2010
Green (in BKLYN) Gift Basket with eco-friendly gifts and treats worth at least $201.00. Spend at least $20.10 before 2011 and you’re in!
Green in BKLYN
432 Myrtle Ave (b/w Clinton & Waverly) www.greeninbklyn.com 718-855-4383 Holiday hours: Tue to Fri 11-8 Sat 10-8 Sun 11-6
BROOKLYN BREAD
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Thursday, December 16, 2010
Cupcakes Take The Cake Sixth Anniversary Party Tuesday, December 7 at the Brooklyn Winery
Rudy Martinez, Spencer Blank of Man Bakes Cake
Jenesy Claire, John Stiles of Brooklyn Winery
Misty Martin, Lara Rhyner of Magnolia Bakery
Melanie Hopkins, Elena Soderblom
Patrick Gonzales, Anna Camba
Colleen Multari, Sara Farrell
Christina Wyman, Mandy Kessler
Annette and Frank Villaverde of Ladybug Luggage
Erik Trinidad, Kirsten Teal
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
BROOKLYN BREAD
Thursday, December 16, 2010
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A Lily And A Loaf Of Bread
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The story of whiskey, bourbon and rye... by Sarah McColl
AVID Moo, co-owner of and bartender at Quarter, was gracious enough to shed light on an issue that’s flummoxed me for years: what the heck is the difference between bourbon, whiskey, and rye? The simplest answer, to get us going, is that whiskey is a general term that encompasses seven types: Scotch, Irish, blended American, blended Canadian, Japanese, bourbon and rye. Moo and I are talking about whiskies made stateside, for which we have to go back to the early days of the Scots and Irish settlers who were accustomed to making it from barley. Nothing if not resourceful, they began making alcohol from grains they could grow well on this side of the pond: corn and rye. Since then, our Congress has defined what constitutes bourbon, and rye. Each brand of liquor uses its own signature proportions, but the basic recipe, or mash bill, is set in stone: “For something to be called bourbon, the mash bill has to contain at
least 51% corn and no more than 80% corn. The other 20% can be either rye or wheat,” explains Moo. The same ratio goes for rye. “It has to be at least 51% rye and it can’t be more than 80% rye.” The other 20% can be either corn or wheat. Next comes distillation and after that, aging. “The real character from these whiskies comes mostly from their barrels,” says Moo, and there are a set of rules there, too. “They have to be aged in new, charred, American oak barrels.” The char master uses a flame-thrower to scorch the inside of the barrels, the thickness of which is graded on a numbering system. “What they are generally looking for is char number four,” thus explaining the name of the bourbon-loving restaurant on Smith Street. Who knew? The barrels are then filled with distilled spirits, which we wouldn’t yet call whiskey. In the case of bourbon, it’s simply unaged corn distillate (or moonshine). Cork up the distillate, wait at least two years and what you’ve got is bourbon. Although here comes another rule: if it’s aged less than four years,
it has to say so on the bottle. As a result, most all bourbon and rye is aged at least four years. But there’s one final myth to bust: There’s no Congressional law regarding provenance of bourbon or rye, in fact, “it can be made anywhere in the US, including Hawaii,” says Moo. It is in fact, made in Brooklyn. Some of the confusing nomenclature is just geographical jockeying. Johnny Walker Tennessee Whiskey, for example, meets all the requirements of bourbon. They call themselves whiskey to stand apart from their Kentucky competitors. Make no mistake, though, it’s bourbon. “But they might shoot you if you were to say that,” warns Moo. Classic Old-Fashioned With the back of a spoon or a muddler, dissolve 1 tsp sugar, preferably turbinado or demerara, with 3 dashes Angostura bitters and 1 teaspoon water. Add 2 oz bourbon or rye, ice, and finish with lemon twist. Monongahela Mule Fill a highball glass with ice. Add ¼ oz lime juice, 1 ¾ oz rye, and fill glass with a spicy ginger beer, preferably Stewart’s or, if you can find it, Barritt’s.
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Thursday, December 16, 2010
Cupcakes Take The Cake Sixth Anniversary Party Tuesday, December 7 at the Brooklyn Winery
Martin Mueller, Sarina Meanes
Jill Palmer, Alisha Macaulay
Emily Hanhan, Gillian Rader
Brianne Baier, Jie Feng
Rajah Paul, Nerisah Baksh, Tania Sultan
Hiroko Mutoshima, Izumi Shiraishi
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Copies of this magazine get snapped up fast... But do NOT panic, dear reader. If you cannot find a copy of Brooklyn Bread at your favorite food and drink establishment, book shop or other fine store, you can read every single page of Brooklyn Bread online.
Just visit brooklynbreadpress.com
Thursday, December 16, 2010
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Eight good reasons to visit Michael & Ping’s 1. Healthier food – never (ever) MSG 2. Bahn Mi – Slow-roasted pork, char sui, spicy mayo on toasted baguette 3. Tamarind-glazed Spare Ribs – Slow-cooked for eight hours 4. See the magic happen in our 51-foot open kitchen 5. Wood beams + exposed brick walls = cool (but cozy) vibe 6. Great lunch specials – get out of the office already! 7. Enjoy dessert next door at 4 & 20 Blackbirds, Brooklyn’s best pie shop 8. We’re the first Certified Green Restaurant in Brooklyn* EAT IN « TAKEOUT « DELIVERY to Gowanus/Park Slope/Carroll Gardens/Cobble Hill ENTIRE RESTAURANT IS AVAILABLE FOR EVENTS (GREAT PARTY SPACE!) *Admittedly, this doesn’t necessarily make the food taste any better, but it DOES make everyone feel better
437 Third Ave (corner of 8th Street), Gowanus 718-788-0017
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BROOKLYN BREAD
Thursday, December 16, 2010
Cupcakes Take The Cake Sixth Anniversary Party Tuesday, December 7 at the Brooklyn Winery PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH
Michelle Stephens, Melissa Zhang, Rachel Kramer Bussel
Becca Levin, Laura Vincent, Annie Dolmatch
Allison Robieelli, Rudy Martinez, Matt Robieelli
Thursday, December 16, 2010
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My Perfect Brooklyn Day
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Craig Samuel plans a memorable time in Bed-Stuy
HAVE lived in Brooklyn my whole life and am excited by many of the changes – especially the culinary ones – that have occurred over the last few years. After more than 20 years of cooking at – and slogging to– some of the finest restaurants in the world, it’s a luxury to be able to play in my own backyard, as fabulous restaurants, artistic enterprises and, honestly, just great people arrive and add depth and character to what was an unheralded gem. So, my perfect day? Well, my Jack Russell terrier, Roxie, wet noses my dangling foot when it’s time for her walk so there is no such thing as sleeping in. Somehow she knows it’s my turn, since my wife walked her last night. We’d stroll a few extra blocks this morning to Classon Avenue, where at The Glass Shop, Francesco Agostino pulls some of the best espresso this side of Firenze. I always have an Americano as we chat about the ever-changing landscape of Brooklyn. I am especially fond of small shops like his where the owner’s personality enriches your experience. (I’d recommend this place just to gawk at his supersaturated tattoos.) Before leaving, I’d grab a Manhattan Special Gassosa, which, ironically, is still bottled in Brooklyn. After years of hitting the ground running in the fast-paced world of fine cuisine, now, as an owner, I pace myself in the morning. On our walk back home I’d listen to the latest podcast of “This American Life” as I plan my day. Since this is a perfect one, my daughter would be home from school. I’d rouse her from her weekend slumber, grab the bikes and we’d head over to the Fort Greene Greenmarket. While I conduct business with our friends at Wilklow Orchards, she’d stroll through the market and grab her “Greenmarket Junk Food”: Fuji Apple Cider from Red Jacket Orchards, Ronnybrook Chocolate Milk and Wilklow’s addictive apple cider doughnuts. She always gets a dozen and then swings by The Smoke Joint, to share a couple with her older sister, who should, by now, be hard at work. I’d check in with my partner Ben, discuss meeting up later in the day, and then we’d scoot back home so she could get on with her day. Even during a perfect day a high-schooler can only take so much “parent.” I’d then zip over to Peaches, where the jazz band, The Afterwork Collective, would be in full swing. I’d greet the regulars, check in with the kitchen and head over to Bread Stuy, our next-door neighbor, for a slice of Hillary Por-
Craig Samuel at Peaches – his day would start with dog Roxie and end with pizza. Photograph by Kelly Conaty
ter’s famous Pumpkin Bread. Her husband, Lloyd, the unofficial “mayor” of Bed Stuy and his brother who was just nominated for a Grammy (Water by Gregory Porter – get it!) crack me up with their banter as they catch me up on what’s going on in the Stuy. Then – business, business, business – Redacted! It’s unavoidable. Somewhere in here I grab doubles from Trinidad Golden Place on Nostrand Avenue, a lunch almost light enough for me to avoid the elliptical machine for another day. Now, THAT would be perfect. Maybe I snack a nibble of Extra Hot Chicken and collard greens during a pit stop at Peaches HotHouse. Dinner would be my younger daughter’s choice, and knowing her, we’re having Vietnamese or pizza. It’s pizza. Choosing between our three favorites – Saraghina, Lucali and Roberta’s – is made easier by my desire for an under-the-radar experience (hard to achieve at Saraghina, two blocks from Peaches in a neighborhood where everybody knows your name), and something low-key and relaxing (have you ever been to Roberta’s?). So, as we walk through the door of Lucali, Mark would look up from carefully handling nearly every pie that enters and exits the brick oven that he built with his own hands. He motions us to come up to his pizza table. “How’s business?” I ask. He shrugs and says with a reserved mod-
esty, “Good. I can’t complain.” The horde of hopeful diners outside belies his understatement. “You guys need a seat?” He scans the room for empty plates and trays, folks shifting in their seats or adjusting coats and scarves. “No, we’ll wait.” Mark and I have been acquaintances since 2006, when we opened our stores within two weeks of each other and he treats us like family. I have had business meetings in his backyard surrounded by his basil plantation, during his dinner rush, as Mark sent out calzone after calzone. I have eaten Lucali’s finest with a sixpack of Dale’s Pale Ale on the tailgate of a 1982 Toyota FourRunner on Henry Street when it was obvious that a table was not in the cards. And yes, once, I guiltily snagged a seat that someone had been eyeing. This time, there’s a four-top finishing up (hey, it’s my day!). I should mention that I’m writing this in Egg, my favorite breakfast haunt, awaiting my fair-trade French-pressed Brooklyn Coffee Roasters Sumatra. I would discuss the merits of their warm, buttery biscuits dragged through wildflower honey, perfectly scrambled organic eggs, and homemade fennel sausages, but that’s for another perfect Brooklyn day. Craig Samuel is the owner of Peaches, a southern-styled restaurant at 393 Lewis Avenue, between Decatur and MacDonough, in Bed-Stuy, 718-9424162, peachesbrooklyn.com.
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fresh pastries artisanal breads desserts custom cakes
448 atlantic avenue, boerum hill 718.246.2402 bettybakery.com
Thursday, December 16, 2010
Greenpoint Open Studios’ Food Contest And Art Show Friday December 10 in Greenpoint PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLEN YING
Anita and Jean Shepherd of Electric Blue Baking
Tue-Fri 7:30-7 Sat 9-7 Sun 11-5
Julie Feldman, Karen Kasza, Scott Chasse
A café firmly in the “Great European tradition”, “serving NY’s best coffee” in the “most articulate space around” – according to its cult following of creative directors and writers.
Café Regular
318a 11th Street, Brooklyn Sun-Wed 7am-7pm Thu-Sat 7am-8pm
Café Regular du Nord 158a Berkeley Place, Brooklyn Sun-Sat 7am-8pm
Erik Dalzen, Martin Esteves, Caroline Burghardt
Thursday, December 16, 2010
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Enrich Your Life... Adopt An Animal
Three beautiful creatures need loving homes... call Dog Habitat Rescue at 718-395-2298 for more information
«
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LADY BUG was a stray that we pulled off the euthanasia list at the Manhattan AC&C shelter. She’s seven years old and a gentle, sweet girl. She’s happy to go for a walk and play and just as content to curl up for a nap. She’d be wonderful for someone looking for an adult dog. Please contact us to learn more about Lady Bug!
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Thursday, December 16, 2010
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Thursday, December 16, 2010
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Try This At Home!
Inspired by Brooklyn’s finest culinary creations, Cathy Erway tries them out in her own kitchen
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ERE’S one reason you may want to put a deep fryer on your Christmas list: to make brussels sprouts like they do at The Vanderbilt. Crispy, greasy, tossed in a sweet-andspicy sriracha and honey sauce and showered with sesame seeds, they’re a Brussels sprouts to convert non-Brussels sprouts eaters. Sous chef Ryan McLaughlin says that this vegetable side was part of the original lineup at the Vanderbilt when it opened two years ago, and it still gets ordered a ton. With a lot of different small plates on the menu, the concept at The Vanderbilt is to try and order as many as you can to share. The dainty servings (like a golden pickled egg, or a pile of chopped liver on toast) eventually fill you up as as you treat your tastebuds to a smorgasbord of various delights. I’m not sure if everyone orders this way at the Prospect Heights restaurant. But the format also makes for great snacks if you’re just imbibing over some cocktails at the bar. Which is where I tried my last honey and sriracha Brussels sprouts. The best part about the dish is the curled leaves that fall astray from the sprouts, and get frizzled up alone. I’ve had this potato chip-like effect happen also when roasting Brussels sprouts, except the flakes take on a slightly charred flavor. Lately I’ve been a fan of blasting leafy greens, like kale, with 400-degree heat on a roasting tray, and coming out with something resembling a chip a couple minutes later. So maybe it wouldn’t be the same as frying them, but roasting these Brussels sprouts in the same manner, and tossing them in the sauce afterward, sounded like a much more practical option to recreate the dish at home. It’s still the right season to find fresh, crisp bulbs of Brussels sprouts at the Greenmarket, often still on the stalk. Should you get a stick of sprouts still attached to one (as I did recently from Madura Farms at Union Square), snapping them off the stalk is a good way to tell how fresh they are. They should pop off easily with a twist. These petite members of the cabbage family can give off a little unpleasant funk if you don’t handle them with care, or if they’re past their prime. Cooking them
Think you don’t like Brussels sprouts? You may have a different opinion when you try this dish, inspired by The Vanderbilt in Prospect Heights. Photograph by the author
quickly is a sure-fire way to reduce the risk of releasing their sulfur. Once cut into half-spheres, I tossed the Brussels sprouts with plenty of olive oil, and salt. While the oven was preheating, I placed them each cut side-down on a roasting tray, spaced out from one another in a single layer so that no two Brussels sprouts were touching. I thought that would encourage their crispiness even more. Some leaves had already slipped off their bulbs while tossing in olive oil, and I let these hang loose on the tray. Then, after a few minutes in the hot oven, the Brussels sprouts were sufficiently blistered and crispy. A sauce was whisked up in that time, consisting of honey, lime juice and a few drops of sriracha – the authentic version at The Vanderbilt. I don’t know what proportions they use for each ingredient, but I made my version a little spicier than they do, using more sriracha (a Vietnamese chili and garlic sauce), and less honey. Play around with it to fit your own taste!
Honey-Sriracha Brussels Sprouts (inspired by The Vanderbilt) makes 2-3 servings 1 lb Brussels sprouts, halved 3-4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil salt and pepper 1 tablespoon honey 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 2-3 teaspoons sriracha sauce (to taste) roasted sesame seeds (for garnish) Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Toss sprouts in olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place cut side-down on a roasting tray in a single layer so that none are touching. Roast for 2-3 minutes (depending on the size of your sprouts). Check after a couple minutes and when the bottoms are nicely browned, remove and let cool. Whisk the honey, lime juice and sriracha and adjust proportions of each ingredient to taste. Transfer Brussels sprouts to a large bowl and drizzle in the sauce as you toss them well. Sprinkle on the sesame seeds, and serve.
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BROOKLYN BREAD
Thursday, December 16, 2010
Greenpoint Open Studios’ Food Contest And Art Show Friday December 10 in Greenpoint PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLEN YING
Carrie Kim, Jen Galatiota, Erik Dalzen
Mary Brockman, Deanna Spence, Jessica Hammill, Nackie Karcher
Audrey Manning, Jamie Fauss, Katie Dobbins, Jeffrey Orozco, Kelsey Frohman
Thursday, December 16, 2010
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An Edible History Of Brooklyn
In collaboration with Brooklyn Public Library
your local destination for all sweet treats WE CAN BE FOUND AT BROOKLYN’S WEEKLY ARTISTS & FLEAS MARKET FROM 12-8PM ARTISANAL “SPIRITED” COOKIES AND SEASONAL FRUIT TARTS ARE OUR SPECIALTIES
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LET US CATER YOUR HOLIDAY PARTY CONTACT US FOR MORE INFORMATION LIZ@BROWNBAGBAKERYNYC.COM
Allan Garfinkle was one very knotty guy. Photo from “Brooklyn Daily Eagle”
I
N 1952 the Brooklyn Daily Eagle ran an article about Allan Garfinkle, a Bronx man whose nimble fingers accounted for the tying of more than 1,000,000 knots a year. Neither sailor nor professional shoe-tier, Garfinkle was a salami man. An employee for Hebrew National in the Fort Greene market area, Garfinkle was responsible for filling thin cellulose casings with “prepared beef mixture” and securing each spicy tube with double slip-knotted string. Day after day. Sausage after sausage. Double slip knot after double slip knot. Needless to say, this was not a job with a bright future, and Garfinkle himself admitted that he was hoping to get out of the salami-stuffing racket and into a position with more growth potential. At the time the photograph above ran in the paper Garfinkle had been working at Hebrew National for seven years and was, by his own account, ready to leave the tying bench behind for a position in the sales department, where his father was sales manager. Asked by the Eagle reporter if being replaced by a sausage-packing machine – which Garfinkle’s boss was thinking of purchasing – worried him, Garfinkle just smiled and said: “Naw, maybe then I’d get my chance to become a salesman.” BEN GOCKER
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Thursday, December 16, 2010
Four & Twenty Blackbirds
This must be where pies go when they die Four & Twenty Blackbirds 439 3rd Avenue at 8th Street Gowanus, Brooklyn www.birdsblack.com
Pie by the slice in the shop, whole pies are made to order. Please call to order: tel 718.499.2917
Closed Mondays Tuesday to Friday: 8am–7pm Saturday: 9am–7pm Sunday: 10am–6pm
Thursday, December 16, 2010
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From Soil To Plate
A
LTHOUGH the hardiest of crops are still growing, most of the produce available at the farmers’ markets is composed of storage crops. Over the years, I have found myself more and more pleased with the meals I can turn out by relying upon my root cellar for the winter and early spring. Although I’ve yet to meet a root crop I don’t adore, the parsnip (perhaps so attractive because of its finicky nature, not unlike a love interest playing hard to get: difficult and painfully slow to grow) tops out as my favorite of the underground varietals. Many of us don’t have the space for a full root cellar. But even in a small urban living space, it’s easy to set up a simple system so you can stock up. Ideally, a root cellar’s temperature hovers just a bit above freezing. Given that most of our landlords crank the heat to unbearably high temperatures, we have to get a little creative to find a space cool enough. For me, the kitchen is the least suitable room in the apartment. I tend to keep my kitchen warm with all
The weekly green report by Sara Franklin the cooking I do, and it’s the most lived-in of all my rooms. I happen to keep my bedroom a little on the frosty side, as, with rural New England blood coursing through my veins, I prefer a cold room so I can sleep under piles of quilts and comforters. With my room kept cool by keeping its radiator off most of the time, my closet, which I keep shut tight, is about as cool a space as I have available. I store my roots in five-gallon buckets layered with sawdust (make sure you don’t use the remnants of lumber with nasty chemical treatment, as it can seep into your food). To keep stray critters out, I cover the buckets with a liberal round of fine mesh (like that used for window screens), and hold the screen’s edges down tight with heavy-duty rubber bands or double-wrapped bungee cords. If you have any other cool space in your home or in an attached garage that gets a bit of heat from a residence (the worst thing you can do is let your roots continually freeze and defrost), that will work too. Parsnips keep well this way for several months, as do beets, rutabagas, cold-hard tur-
nips, storage carrots, and a number of other commonly found northeastern root crops. Using an Eliot Coleman recipe seems appropriate for this column, since the coastal Maine farmer is considered the father of fourseasons growing practices in the northeast. You can enjoy these parsnips any time of day, but I particularly like them served alongside a pile of lightly-sautéed greens and a couple of fried eggs for breakfast. Allow for 2-3 parsnips per person for a hearty breakfast. Peel your parsnips with a vegetable peeler or paring knife. Slice in half lengthwise and then into half-inch chunks. In a heavy-bottomed skillet (cast iron is ideal), melt equal parts canola oil and butter (about a tablespoon of each when cooking for two) over medium heat. Cook parsnips until just fork tender, about 20 minutes, stirring regularly, adding more fat if needed to keep from sticking. Season to taste with maple syrup and salt, adding a dash of cayenne if you like a bit of a kick.
BLANC&ROUGE “Excellent, wide-ranging selection, high end to low.” – NEW YORK TIMES
Organic and biodynamic selections Wine tastings every Wednesday Free delivery with no minimum purchase within DUMBO and Brooklyn Heights. Delivery elsewhere in Brooklyn and Manhattan is free for orders over $200 81 Washington Street, DUMBO 718-858-9463 Visit our online store at brwines.com
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BROOKLYN BREAD
Thursday, December 16, 2010
Greenpoint Open Studios’ Food Contest And Art Show Friday December 10 in Greenpoint PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLEN YING
Mark Strackbein, Chuck Tisa, Rachel Phillips
Jen Galatiota, Joann Kim, Martha Lentol, Assemblyman Joseph Lentol
Kendall Smith, John Mitchell
Thursday, December 16, 2010
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Eat Pie And Shop Fundraiser Hosted By PS29 Sunday, December 5 in Cobble Hill
Dan Muskin of Barefoot Books
Curtis and Julie Maclean of Goodship
Isabel Salazar, Beth Broome
Ingri Von Bergen, Brian Merritt of House of Ingri
Maruska Saunders of Stinky Minky
Charlie Jaffe, Kristin Heauey
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
“In a café-crazed town, Iris is one of a kind.” “Best Café” in 2010 “Best of New York” issue, New York magazine Stumptown coffee ¯ Pastries, cookies and biscuits, all baked in-house All-day breakfast classics ¯ Sandwiches ¯ Salads For full menu and more details, visit us online at www.iriscafenyc.com 20 Columbia Place, b/w State & Joralemon | Brooklyn Heights | 718-722-7395 No computers or iPads please – take some time out from the real world!
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Thursday, December 16, 2010
Eat Pie And Shop Fundraiser Hosted By PS29 Sunday, December 5 in Cobble Hill
Christine Abelman, Christopher Walker of Ceramics
Greg Paul of Lisa Dove’s Monsterpaks
Radka Osickova, Natasha Samoylenko
Marie Segares of Underground Crafter
Tim Moss, Eva Sheehy-Moss
Lynne Connor, Albert Chau of Grumpy Bert
Virginia Galvan, Hillary Frileck of Virginia Galvan
Ariane Ben Eli, Nola Ben Eli, Talia Ben Eli
Mike and Francis Leahy
Mike Mori, Anie Salerno
Terese Lauritzen, Daphne Fogg
Michelle Inciarrano, Katy Maslow of Twig Terrariums
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Thursday, December 16, 2010
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Greenpoint Open Studios’ Mini Food Contest And Art Show Friday December 10 in Greenpoint
Amanda Garcia Santana, Hannah Lifson
Ashley May, Nick Earhart
Leia Doran, Joann Kim
Colin Roddick, Josh Pep
Claire and Kathryn Typaldos
Melissa McElroy, Rebecca Sherman
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLEN YING... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
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Thursday, December 16, 2010
Kimchi And Korean Pancakes Class At Purple Yam Saturday, December 4 in Ditmas Park
The group enjoy the fruits of the their labors
Coating Napa cabbage
Making Kyung-dan – sweet rice balls
Haegeen Kim
PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRISTINA NEWHARD... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Thursday, December 16, 2010
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Thursday, December 16, 2010
Thursday, December 16, 2010
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Book Signing And Q&A With David Tanis Saturday, December 4 at BookCourt, Cobble Hill with the author of Heart of the Artichoke
PHOTOGRAPH BY JUSTIN NUNNINK... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
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THE BIG PICTURE The Cupcakes Take the Cake Sixth Anniversary Party was held last week at Brooklyn Winery – and we were there to capture the moment (and the cupcakes). Photograph by John Suscovich
BROOKLYN BREAD
Thursday, December 16, 2010
Thursday, December 16, 2010
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Thursday, December 16, 2010
The Foodshed Market At The Commons Sunday, December 5 in Boerum Hill
Ashley McMasters of Orwashers Bakery
Meg and Jim LaBarbara of Daffy
Michelle Gillette
Marlon Danilewitz, Rachel Rush
Kunjang Sherpa of Breezy Hill Orchard
Pat and Ruth Ann Vecere of Dog House Bake Shoppe
Robert Stribley, Amy Stack
Faral Foster plays the music
Kyle and Sara Rafferty
Gisella Civale of Dolce Nonna
Phoebe and Milo Yaubman
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Thursday, December 16, 2010
BROOKLYN BREAD
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Café Of The Week We visit Café Regular in Park Slope
Skateboards Flowers Dry-Goods
FEATURED DRINK: Oliver O’Connell and David Gonzalez recommend the latte at Café Regular in Park Slope.
THE CUSTOMER: Marcelo Anez, 44, undertook the “Brooklyn Bread” inquisition... «Occupation? Sound engineer. «Favorite drink? Double latte. «What brings you to Café Regular? Good quality coffee. «What were you thinking about before we interrupted you? I was discussing the lack of Flash on the iPad.
533 Park Place Prospect Heights 718.789.8889
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Thursday, December 16, 2010
The Foodshed Market At The Commons Sunday, December 5 in Boerum Hill
Mallory Jacobs, Mauri Epstein, Pete Lingenheld
Amina Hassan and Sarah Chase of Amazing Real Live Food Co.
Arielle Visconti, Greg Paquette of Nut People
James Foster, Erik Schnefer of Divine Brine
Bob and Carol Evans
Chris and Nina Devine
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
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Thursday, December 16, 2010
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Bartender Of The Week Charlie Kaim of Maracuja in Williamsburg
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“The bar is our home, so expect a peaceful, relaxing experience,” says Charlie Kaim. (But don’t expect a mojito!) Photograph by Allen Ying
F YOU’RE looking for a bar that evokes a simpler era without resorting to gimmicks, visit Maracuja in Williamsburg. We spoke with Charlie Kaim, who runs the bar with wife Connie Ruiz, to learn more about the story behind Maracuja, his favorite drinks, and what every bartender wants for Christmas. How old are you and where did you grow up? I’m 48 years old and I grew up in Brooklyn. I was born in Brazil and my parents moved us here in 1970. Since then I’ve lived in different neighborhoods all over the borough. Where does the name ‘Maracuja’ come from? It’s a Portuguese word that means passion flower or passion fruit. At our bar it’s all about the passion. You were responsible for renovating the building that houses Maracuja. What was that like? When my wife and partner Connie and I first moved here in 1995 the place was a disaster. It was originally a Lithuanian bar that moved here from somewhere on the northside in 1949. Nothing had been fixed or upgraded. We kept as much of the old as possible – the paneling, mirrors and bar are all original. The layout is exactly as it was in the
building department plans from 1950. Who was responsible for what during the renovation? Most of the art in the bar, the mural ceiling and decor were put together by Connie. I’m more of a jack-of-all-trades so the infrastructure, plumbing, carpentry and electrical were mostly done by me. Do people get up and play that cool old upright piano? They do. The piano is as old as the building, which makes it about 105 years old. Because the patrons play so hard we’re having a new action put in. Where did you work before Maracuja? I’ve always had multiple jobs, and I’ve bartended catered events for years. I’ve also driven a yellow cab part-time for over 25 years, and I work for the New York City Department of Environmental Protection in regards to water conservation and tech services. How would you describe your clientele? They’re looking for a comfort zone instead of a theme. Most bars have a theme – a bowling alley, a pick-up joint, live music, something, but this is very much a neighborhood bar. What are your most popular drinks? Whiskeys, Manhattans and Old Fashioneds. We also have a very large bourbon selection.
Any drinks you can’t stand making, and any you recommend? I enjoy tending bar – the only thing I hate is the lack of patience some people have when it’s busy. I guess I hate making mojitos, so I don’t. We make great caipirinhas and our house drink is Maracujaca, which is cachaca, fresh passion fruit juice, simple syrup, limes and Brazilian rum. What’s your favorite drink, and what bars do you like in Brooklyn? Believe it or not I like a Pimm’s Cup – I use Pellegrino Limonata, a homemade lemonade, fresh fruit and Pimm’s. My favorite bar in Brooklyn is at Rye – it’s very beautiful, old style, old school. I like to eat at the same place – Rye. I love their brunch, in particular the Challah French Toast. What’s one thing you would like firsttime customers to know before they come to Maracuja? The bar is our home, so expect a peaceful, relaxing experience and don’t let the old storefront fool you. It’s not a social club but your friends’ and neighbors’ (and Charlie and Connie’s) place. Perfect Christmas gift for a bartender? A night of drinking somewhere else. Maracuja Bar & Grill, 279 Grand Street, Williamsburg, 718-302-9023, maracujabar.com.
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Thursday, December 16, 2010
The Foodshed Market At The Commons Sunday, December 5 in Boerum Hill
Jon Stadt of Flour City Pasta
Carol Lang of Cibelli Chocolates
Deborah R. Brenner of Las Delicias Patisserie
Danielle DiVecchio of Biscotti di Vecchio
Van Vahle
Eric Childs of TBBR Kombucha Brooklyn
PHOTOGRAPHS BY OUR JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
«Dog Habitat Rescue, founded in 2009, is the newest member of the Mayor’s Alliance for NYC’s Animals. «Working with 150 Alliance Participating Organizations to increase adoptions from Animal Care and Control shelters and transform New York City into a no-kill community by 2015.
Dog Habitat Rescue at Unleash: Brooklyn 216 Franklin Street 718.395.2298 rescue@doghabitat.org
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Thursday, December 16, 2010
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