BROOKLYN
BREAD Good Food News « Delivered Fresh
THE MARCH ISSUE, 2011 « Vol. 2, No. 2 « Free Publication « Brooklyn, NY
The Great Brooklyn Taco Trek! PAGES 32-33
Adam, Sam, Armando and Samy, at Simple Café in Williamsburg – see pages 31 and 34 for more pictures from an afternoon at the café. Photograph by Allen Ying
inside the free magazine that’s full of good food & drink...
Our Favorite Things To Try In The Month Ahead
My Perfect Brooklyn Day... By Emily Isaac
Confessions Of An Organic Food Pioneer
Behind The Bar With Kent Lanier Of Black Rabbit
PAGES 4-5
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Inside This Issue
A smorgasbord of photographs, advice, wisdom and wit! Our Favorite Things 4-5 Treats both inspiring and indulgent. The Events Guide 7 Everything you need to plan your food calendar. The Production Line 9 Investigating the source of great dishes. Humble Pie 10 Another helping from Four and Twenty Blackbirds. The Cheese Report 10 Laura Nuter’s irresistibly gooey guide. Good Bread 10 Another classic recipe for you to try. Knives Out 17 The ultimate kitchen tool, by Joel Bukiewicz. Try This At Home! 21 Cathy Erway is cooking up a storm. My Perfect Brooklyn Day 25 Emily Isaac of Trois Pommes Patisserie. Adopt An Animal 27 Six adorable dogs need homes and loving owners. The Great Brooklyn Food Safari 32 This month: We go on a taco trek!
Gumbo Dumbo 35 Meet Chef Reggie of Water Street Restaurant Confessions Of An Organic Pioneer 39 David Basham of Park Slope’s Back to the Land. From Soil To Plate 41 Sara Franklin’s regular green report. Shopping Local 43 Brooklyn’s best merchants and goods. Love Thy Neighbor 45 Joann Kim spotlights local artisans. Less Is More 47 Opening of Brooklyn Botanic Garden’s new event. The Wine Column 53 Josh Cohen with his picks of the month. Café Of The Month 54 We visit Black Gold Records in Cobble Hill. Bartender Of The Month 57 Kent Lanier of Black Rabbit. La Vida Locavore 59 Jordan Colon of Eat gives a master class. Brooklyn Bread Rate Card 63 You’ll discover it’s quite cheap to support us!
u OPENINGS, CLOSING AND HAPPENINGS... Bark Hot Dogs, located just off Flatbush Avenue, is now delivering food, growlers and bottled beer to Prospect Heights and the north slope... This spring, Manhattan’s wildly popular and delicious Meatball Shop is coming to 170 Bedford Avenue (near North 7th Street) in Williamsburg... James in Prospect Heights is now offering two new dining options – on Sunday nights, a $25 three-course seasonal menu is available and on Mondays from 5:30-11:30, burgers and sliders are half price... Willie’s Dawgs, Taqueria Reis and La Taqueria, all in Park Slope, have closed... Dean Street, the Prospect Heights restaurant that opened a month ago, has already parted company with former Spotted Pig chef, Nate Smith... Gowanus adds a coffee bar called Crop to Cup, serving baked goods from nearby Four & Twenty Blackbirds... Pardes is now open in Boerum Hill, serving kosher Mediterrean style food... In addition to breakfast and lunch, Mile End is now serving dinner. Compiled by Jason Greenberg
March, 2011
Our Team Editor Danielle Franca Swift Editor Jack Wright Contributing Editors Bec Couche, Jason Greenberg Assistant Editor Jon Roth Illustrator Liza Corsillo Contributors Joel Bukiewicz, Josh Cohen, Emily Elsen, Melissa Elsen, Cathy Erway, Sara Franklin, Joann Kim, Laura Nuter, Sophie Slesinger Photographers Jen Campbell, Kelly Conaty, Jennifer Forchelli, Nichole McCall, Justin Nunnink, Kim Madalinski, Andrew St. Clair, Lawrence Sumulong, John Suscovich, Donny Tsang, Allen Ying Brooklyn Bread is published by Brooklyn Bread Press P.O. Box 150026 Brooklyn, NY 11215 (917) 740-1072 You can also read the entire magazine online at www.BrooklynBreadPress.com Follow us on Facebook @BrooklynBreadPress And on Twitter Bbpbreadcrumbs Brooklyn Bread is printed on recycled paper using soy-based inks.
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THE BROOKLYN BREAD CARTOON... BY LIZA CORSILLO
From The Editors
T
HERE is nothing like good ol’ competitive cooking to warm up the spirit and satisfy hunger. And this issue is packed with cook-off coverage – there’s a meatball slapdown, a wings competition, a chili fest and even our very own edible dance-off. Did we say dance-off? Yes. (See the debut of our cartoon above.) Still feeling competitive? All of you have the chance to win a gift certificate if you enter our cheeky little clip-art contest (see the next column over). You could also win a beautiful bouquet of flowers, courtesy of our friends at Park Delicatessen, in our Bouquet Ambush. But you can’t actually enter – you just need to be in the right place at the right time (see page 18). Elsewhere in this issue, Jason Greenberg reveals his favorite new things (pages 4 and 5); Laura Nuter pairs cheeses with Irish whiskeys, in honor of St Patrick’s Day (page 10); Cathy Erway tries her hand at dumplings (page 21); Bec Couche takes us on a tasty taco trek (pages 32 and 33), and
then heads over to Ger-Nis for a cooking class from local food trailblazer, Jordan Colon of Eat (page 59). Our next issue is out on Wednesday, March 30. In between times, you can follow us on Twitter and Facebook. And if you’re a relative newcomer to our magazine, you can read past issues on our website – BrooklynBreadPress.com. Enjoy the issue, fellow food fans. Danielle Franca Swift & Jack Wright
Win A $50 Gift Certificate! While you are poring over the pages of Brooklyn Bread, you will have the chance to win a $50 gift certificate for a healthy and delicious meal at Sun in Bloom. How come? Because we have sneakily hidden a happy little sun in one of the ads in this issue. It’s a smaller version of the guy above. When you have located the piece of clip art, enter our contest by sending an email to: hello@brooklynbreadpress.com. Tell us on which page and in which ad the clip art is hidden. Make sure you write CLIP ART CONTEST in the subject line, and also make sure you include your name and address. A winner will be selected utterly at random on the third week in March, and the name of that lucky person will be printed in the next issue of Brooklyn Bread, and also posted on our Facebook page, and on Twitter. Last month’s lucky winner was Sophie Forbes, who wins the gift certificate to spend at Sun in Bloom, at 460 Bergen Street, Brooklyn. Check our Facebook page and Twitter account regularly for more contests!
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March, 2011
Our Favorite Things
A roundup of some of the finest dishes and treats from Brooklyn restaurants... by Jason Greenberg Grilled Calamari Stuffed With Quinoa At Chestnut Over the past few years many restaurants have focused their menus on seasonal and local ingredients. Chef Daniel Eardley at the Michelin-recommended Chestnut is a shining example of this practice. You will not find ingredients on his menu if they are not available locally. Meaning you’ll find no tomatoes from South America, no prosciutto from Italy. The majority of the ingredients come from Satur Farms on the North Fork of Long Island or upstate New York where the chef himself travels regularly. The restaurant receives only raw ingredients (nothing processed) and everything else is made in house, including the well-known house pickles, soft focaccia, house-cured lox served with bread crisps and charcuterie. Having worked with American culinary pioneers Larry Forgione and Jonathan Waxman, Eardley knows how to prepare these ingredients minimally, allowing them to shine on the plate. One prime example of this technique is the grilled calamari stuffed with quinoa. The calamari is stuffed and grilled to achieve the perfect texture and smoky flavor, sliced and served over a watermelon radish and micro greens salad with romesco sauce. The cozy, farmhouse-like atmosphere is a great setting to enjoy a meal directly from the land. Before your meal, have a house cocktail or glass of wine in the adjacent bar, which the chef built himself from recycled materials. The $30 three-course dinner available on Tuesdays and Wednesdays provides an excellent opportunity to enjoy the menu. However difficult it might be, make sure to save room for Chestnut’s signature dessert, a chocolate budino with peanut butter mousse and caramel sauce. Chestnut, 271 Smith Street, Carroll Gardens, (718) 243-0049, chestnutonsmith.com.
Dill And Beet Infused Vodka At Night Of Joy The owners of Manhattan’s The Dove Parlour, Jen Armstrong and Henrietta Paris, friends since the fourth grade, have brought their relaxed, adult vibe to Brooklyn with Night of Joy. The Victorian decor, intimate lighting and warm interior create a unique atmosphere that sets it apart from most bars nearby, and the drinks are as unique as the space. The menu features a small list of house cocktails and infused liquors such as the orange blossom rum lemonade and a basil and lime gin gimlet. A highlight is the dill and beet infused vodka. The three-day process begins with Tito’s Handmade Vodka, peeled and quartered organic beets and fresh dill sprigs. Inspired by the traditional Hungarian cooking of Paris’ mother, the cold vodka is unlike anything you’ve had before or will find elsewhere. Although it is served straight, the subtle flavors work to create an easy drinking vodka. Night of Joy, 667 Lorimer Street, Williamsburg, (718) 388-8693.
March, 2011
Pasta Al Ceppo At Vinegar Hill House Tucked on a quiet block in the little-traveled Vinegar Hill neighborhood just east of Dumbo sits one of the borough’s brightest new restaurants. Chef and co-owner Jean Adamson (formerly a chef at Balthazar and Freeman’s) has designed the Vinegar Hill House menu to highlight comforting, satisfying food. The quaint room has a rustic, country feel and is adorned with intriguing conversation pieces like the foot pedals and an old organ that hang behind the copper
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bar. The focal point is the small, open kitchen where cooks navigate around the wood-burning oven. The atmosphere encourages you to focus on the food. The constantly changing menu features staples such as the juicy, expertly cooked red wattle country pork chop, sliced and served on a wood cutting board with homemade sauerkraut, and the cast iron chicken served right in the sizzling hot pan. Other recent menu items have included braised beef cheeks, bone marrow ravioli and a fennel and radish salad. Currently on the
menu, the pasta al ceppo (a rolled tube pasta) with oxtail, octopus and breadcrumbs proves that comfort food doesn’t have to be heavy. Brightened by a squeeze of lemon juice, the braised oxtail, tender octopus and soft pasta are matched perfectly with the crunch of the breadcrumbs. It is filling and light all at once. Vinegar Hill House, 72 Hudson Avenue, Vinegar Hill, (718) 5221018, vinegarhillhouse.com
Pulled Pork Rolled Quesadillas At Calexico Three brothers from southern California moved to New York, and brought their San Francisco-style burritos and tacos with them. Not long after, their cart in Soho became a popular destination for fresh and tasty Mexican food. After winning a Vendy award for best street cart, they opened their first location on Union Street in Red Hook and recently added a second in Greenpoint. The Red Hook location is a more casual, order-at-the-counter spot and their Greenpoint operation is a sit-down restaurant. The brothers are know for their carne asada burritos served with beans, cheese, pico de gallo and avocado sauce, but the menu also features an assortment of tacos, tortas and salads. The rolled quesadillas are a happy accident – because
of space issues on the carts, the quesadillas were rolled to make room, causing the flour tortillas to get wonderfully crisp on the outside. One bite of the slowcooked chipotle pulled pork, melted jack and cheddar cheese, pickled red onions and side of signature “crack” sauce makes it easy to understand what all the fuss is about. Mexican sodas and beers are offered but you’d be hard pressed to find a better combo than with a spicy Barrio Brown Ale made exclusively for Calexico by Sixpoint Brewery, and available by teh growler. In a city starved for fresh, consistent Mexican food, Calexico may be one of the greatest additions to Brooklyn’s dining scene. Calexico, 122 Union Street, Red Hook, 718-4888226, 645 Manhattan Avenue, Greenpoint, 347-7631826, calexicocart.com.
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bicycle station
Bicycle Station
March, 2011
The Second Annual Meatball Slapdown
February 3, hosted by Brooklyn Grange at Brooklyn Kitchen PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLEN YING
“The Bicycle Station is a godsend for cyclists...� Time Out New York
Carlo Mirarchi and Frank Pinello of Best Pizza
Tune-ups v repairs restorations v sales Owner Mike has more than 30 years of experience in bike maintenance and care We are open through the fall and winter and offer excellent prices for off-season sales and repairs
Mark Tallman, Cruz Goler and Dan Izzo of Lupa
$45 tune-ups! Get your bike tuned up and be ready to ride this spring 171 Park Avenue, corner of Adelphi 1 block from Flushing Avenue (718) 638-0300 bicycylestationbrooklyn.com Jeffrey Ryan, Lauren Belomy
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The Food & Drink Events Guide
Take a seasonal cooking class, celebrate Mardi Gras, or enjoy a dinner where the food trucks come to you! 3/3 Ted & Amy Supper Club With Amanda Hesser If you’re lucky enough to make it on the list for one of these dinners, be sure to reserve a seat on Thursday with special guest Amanda Hesser of The New York Times Cookbook and food52.com. We’re big fans of both the cookbook and website here at Brooklyn Bread, and the menu curated by Hesser promises delectables such as fried olives and Italian beef stew. $45 suggested donation, RSVP at tedandamysupperclub.com. 3/5 What’s In Season At Ger-Nis Celebrate the extended winter with the fruits of the season: grapefruits, lemons, and limes. This class covers how to use the whole fruit: from zesty vinaigrettes to comforting soups. Besides the extensive recipes, a take-home jar of preserved lemons completes the course. $50, Ger-Nis Culinary and Herb Center, 540 President Street, Suite 2E, RSVP at culinaryherbcenter.ger-nis.com. 3/6 Brooklyn Booze Experiment At The Bell House It’s like the best episode of “Top Chef,” but boozier. New York’s most celebrated home chefs compete to win the hearts of audience members and judges with some of the most delicious booze-inspired dishes. Theo Peck and Nick Suarez present, you and the judges taste the contenders. $20 in advance, $25 at the door, The Bell House at 149 7th Street. Tickets at thebellhouseny.com. 3/8 First Annual Mardi Gras Party At Lilla Café Replace your standard “breakfast for dinner” Mardi Gras routine with a true southern feast at Lilla Café in Carroll Gardens. Take in a healthy dose of live zydeco and Dixieland music from 7 to 10pm while enjoying dishes such as crawfish étouffée, blackened pork chops or a Lousiana delistyle muffuletta. Lilla Café, 126 Union Street, Carroll Gardens, 718-855-5700. 3/9 & 3/17 Jam Making With Laena McCarthy Of Anarchy In A Jar Take advantage of early spring berries with Laena McCarthy at Ted & Amy Supper Club in Fort Greene. McCarthy will teach you how to properly preserve jam so you enjoy the fruits of your labor throughout the season. Wine will be served to sweeten the deal. $40. Sign up at tedandamysupperclub.com. 3/12 Making Brooklyn Bloom At Brooklyn Botanic Garden This Brooklyn Botanic Garden tradition continues to kick off the gardening season.
The Brooklyn Booze Experiment at the Bell House always draws a big crowd.
Be sure to take advantage of the workshops, exhibits, and speakers to answer all of your gardening questions. Whether you’re taking over your roof, cleaning out your windowsill or finally constructing that box plot, the Botanic Garden can help you find a way to help make Brooklyn bloom. Free, Brooklyn Botanic Garden, 900 Washington Avenue.
Sixpoint brew, they are joining forces with BeerAdvocate to showcase beer and food in a benefit for the Humane Society of New York City. There are two sessions (1-5pm or 6-10pm) and tickets include beer, delightfully paired food and entertainment. $60, The Bell House, 149 7th Street, Park Slope. Tickets at brownpapertickets.com.
3/21–3/31 Dine In Brooklyn Restaurant Week If you’re a Brooklyn resident then you already understand the greatness of dining here in “the other city.” Brooklyn Restaurant Week should convince your friends still living in Manhattan that it’s worth a trip over the bridge for some of the best meals New York has to offer. Restaurants throughout the borough will be participating in prix fixe lunch and dinner menus (tax and tip included). Check out www.brooklyn. com for a list of participating restaurants.
3/29 The Village Voice’s 4Th Annual Choice Eats It’s worth the trip to Manhattan to dine in the historic 69th Armory on Lexington Avenue. Guests are invited to sample delicious cuisines that would otherwise require an extensive expedition of the city. Featuring over 50 restaurants and food from over 35 nations, including Uzbekistan, Tunisia and Cambodia, to name a few. $35-$80, 69th Armory at Lexington Avenue, 68 Lexington at 26th Street. Tickets at brownpapertickets.com.
3/23 Food Truck Beer Dinner At Brooklyn Brewery Instead of chasing food trucks all around town, join Edible Manhattan at the Brooklyn Brewery for a five-course menu with some of your favorite vendors, including Rickshaw Dumpling, Mexicue, Souvlaki Gr and Van Leeuwen. Courses are paired with craft beer from the Brooklyn Brewery. $40, 6-9pm, Brooklyn Brewery, 79 North 11th Street. Tickets at ediblemanhattan.com. 3/26 Beer For Beasts At The Bell House As if you needed a reason to indulge in some
3/30 City Chautauqua: Covered Dish At 61 Local The new 61 Local in Cobble Hill continues to celebrate locally crafted food by participating in “Chautauqua,” a series of “foodthemed assemblies” curated by Derek Denckla of FarmCity US. Guests are invited to sample chef-crafted covered dishes elegantly displayed in handcrafted ceramic dishes. Participants who bring their own casserole to feed eight people will receive $10 off the ticket price. $40, 6pm, 61 Local, 61 Bergen Street. Tickets at brownpapertickets.com.
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March, 2011
The Second Annual Meatball Slapdown February 3, hosted by Brooklyn Grange at Brooklyn Kitchen
Giuseppe Falco, Edgar Tinoco, Michelle Vido of Vesta
Elizabeth Whitcomb, Stephanie Covell, Anastasia Cole of Brooklyn Grange
Nicole Balmonte, Peter Baker of Balmonte
Sarah Madigan, Miriam Fitzmorris, Riyadh Drebika, Colin Madigan
Paige Newman, John Szlasa, Ciara Hedderman, Bob Groff
Robbie Richter, Steve Haritopoulos, Noah Millrod of Fatty Cue
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLEN YING... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
March, 2011
Brooklyn Bread
The Production Line
We uncover how some of your favorite dishes and drinks came to be, and what path they took to get there... by Bec Couche
THE CROISSANT FROM ALMONDINE Did you know the light, buttery, crisp French pastry that punctuates your weekend coffee routine may only take two minutes to eat, but the better part of two days to make? Or, that if you want to pronounce “croissant” properly you should try saying “kwasohn,” with a slight accent on the “n,” as all other interpretations are, well – wrong? Neither did we, until we spoke to Hervé Poussot, former pastry chef at Le Bernadin and owner of Almondine, who has been bringing the authentic French pastry to DUMBO since 2004. “We prepare the dough in advance, and we make our croissants in a very, very, traditional way. Every stage is important, and we do not rush it,” Poussot says. Here are the steps: 1. “On the first day, we mix flour, the salt the sugar and the butter in a large mixer. We use European unsalted butter which has 82 % fat.” 2. “Next, we mix in the milk, water and yeast. Fresh yeast is alive and you have to respect it, which means feeding it and letting the gas carbonate, but also regulating it, which is why we add salt. We add some old dough for flavor, then leave it overnight. “ 3. “The next morning, we put a square of butter in the middle of the dough, fold it in two, and put it through the rolling machine. If the butter is too warm, it will melt, too cold, and it won’t roll. To get the right texture, the trick is to have the butter and the dough both at just the right temperature. The dough is then put in the fridge for 30 minutes. This is repeated three times.” 4. “After that, around lunch time, the dough is put through the roller one more time, and then cut and rolled into the croissant crescent shape. The croissants are put in the proofer – which is an oven that goes from cold to hot.” 5. “By midnight, the croissants will begin to warm and rise slowly. Around 4am, we brush the croissant with an egg wash mixed with a little salt and sugar, bake a little longer, and then we are ready. We make 100 day – which is never enough!” Almondine is located in DUMBO at 85 Water Street and Park Slope at 442 9th Street.
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Humble Pie The sweetest of treats
By Emily and Melissa Elsen, of Four and Twenty Blackbirds, 439 3rd Avenue, Gowanus
O
kay, springtime, where are you? March has got to be one of the toughest months in Brooklyn. December is full of distractions. We made it through January, and February saves itself since it’s a short month and offers Valentine’s Day halfway through. So now here we are – March. Happy Saint Patrick’s Day? Well yes, but as piemakers we are pining for springtime, the first signs of fruit, the first signs of warmth and so much more: rhubarb, strawberries, cherry blossoms (which lead, of course, to summer cherries)... all good makings for pie. What to do in the meantime? Reflect on the winter that has almost passed, the work that has been done, the snow that has been shovelled, and anticipate all things spring. Here’s what we are looking forward to: riding bikes on snow-free roads, rhubarb pie of all varieties imaginable, National Kite Day, green buds on tree branches, Strawberry Balsamic Pie, magnolia and cherry blossoms, birthdays, ramps, sunshine with warm air and warm rains, tulips, crocuses, Fleet Week, longer days, eating pie on the benches outside the shop, less layers of clothing, asparagus, getting the soil ready for planting, cleaning off the dust of winter and opening the windows for fresh air. Spring, we are ready for you, so come soon! We’ll bring the pie.
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Brooklyn Bread
Good Bread Our monthly recipe
Sauerkraut Rye Bread Day before: 1 cup bread flour 1 cup dark rye flour 1/4 teaspoon instant yeast 1 cup water Day of: 4 cups bread flour 2 cups dark rye flour 2 tablespoons sugar 3 teaspoons salt 4 teaspoons instant yeast 28 oz sauerkraut 1 3/4 cups water 4 tablespoons olive oil Mix the “day before” ingredients. Cover and rest on the counter for 12-16 hours or overnight. The next day, pour sauerkraut into a bowl and squeeze out the liquid. The sauerkraut should be as dry as possible. Now, add half the bread flour into the sauerkraut and mix until the sauerkraut is coated with flour. In a separate bowl pour the “day before” mixture, lukewarm water, yeast, sugar and olive oil and mix till smooth. Add in the sauerkraut, rye flour and salt. Mix. Add more of the bread flour. Pour mix onto a flat surface and knead for 10 minutes. Add enough flour to stop the dough from sticking. Place the kneaded dough into a clean bowl and lightly coat the dough with olive oil. Cover and let rise until double in size (about one hour). Cut in two equal pieces. Take one piece and remove some of the air. Roll up the dough, then close the seam with your fingers. Place the dough into a well-greased pan. Do the same with the other piece of dough. Cover and allow to rest for one hour or until it doubles in size. After the dough rises, brush the top with egg wash and sprinkle poppy seeds on top. Place the bread loaves into a preheated 375F oven for about 35 minutes or until golden brown. Cool.
March, 2011
Cheese Report Seriously tasty dispatches
By Laura Nuter, of GRAB Specialty Foods, 438 7th Avenue, Park Slope
W
atch out for that green cheese... Unless it’s Saint Patrick’s Day of course! Yet another holiday has arrived, giving us another good reason to eat more cheese and drink more craft beer. There are few options when it comes to recognizing Saint Patrick’s feast day and Irish culture: a) go to the NYC Saint Patty’s Day Parade and hit up some crazy bar filled with the highly intoxicated or b) have a few friends over for an Irish cheese and an Irish or non-Irish beer or whiskey pairing and THEN hit the bars. A few suggestions… Adrahan: A beautifully nutty, semi-soft, pungent, washed-rind cheese from County Cork. It’s earthy, mushroomy, and seriously stinky with a beautiful buttery texture. Beer Pairing: O’Hara’s Irish Red or Avery Maharja. Cahill Whiskey: Irish malt whiskey flavors this sweet and tangy cheddar cheese produced in County Limerick that’s so boozy you can light it on fire! Pairing: Kilbeggan Irish Whiskey or Farnum Hill Farmhouse Cider. Cahill Porter: An adventurous, firm and tangy farmhouse cheddar marbled with Irish Porter that is similar to Guinness Stout. It is mildly sweet and a great choice alongside your favorite stews or on the cheese board. Beer Pairing: Guinness Stout or Ommegang Chocolate Indulgence. Cashel Blue: The first farmstead blue from Ireland, this cheese is milky, mellow and minerally with hints of cedar and caramel. Beer Pairing: Harp or Trappistes Rochefort 10.
March, 2011
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March, 2011
The Second Annual Meatball Slapdown
URBAN
February 3, hosted by Brooklyn Grange at Brooklyn Kitchen PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLEN YING
RUSTIC
Judges Ted Allen, Amanda Hesser, Frank Falcinelli
236 N 12th St
Brooklyn, NY 11211
sandwiches + beer tasty sandwiches artfully made on house baked breads
growlers!!!!
delivery
3 draught lines local & regional focus. 750/22oz bottles 12 packs craft beer in cans single 12 oz bottles drink in house! create your own six pack!
north side. greenpoint parts of south side
Judges Frank Castronovo, Garrett Oliver, Amy Eddings
catering see website for catering menu
sly fox night join us for a night of food & beer pairing 3 plates made w/sly fox
thu 07 apr 718.388.9444
urbanrusticnyc.com  Gwen Schantz (Brooklyn Grange), Criag and Elliot Kafton of 2nd Stop CafÊ
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March, 2011
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The Second Annual Meatball Slapdown February 3, hosted by Brooklyn Grange at Brooklyn Kitchen
Jonathan Jacobs, The Vintage DJ
Gerard Renny, Mike Fanzetti of Stuzzicheria
Chris Pearson, Tamara Fadl
photographS by allen ying... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
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Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
FOLLOW THE ADVENTURES OF DON QUICHETTE In its world of natural goodness, BACK TO THE LAND welcomes a new product:
Don Quichette had been reading stories about knights in shining armor and beautiful princesses ever since she was a little girl. One day, she got tired of all these imaginary adventures and decided she was going to have her very own real-life adventure! Don Quichette had a best friend, a dwarf named Pepette. He was a glutton, someone who just loved to eat all the time.
Hand-crafted, gourmet quiches made with the freshest ingredients.
He challenged Don Quichette to make the best dish she could, using the ingredients of her choice, as long as she found them in her home. Of course, he offered to taste every dish and help her become a true culinary artist. So Don Quichette rounded up all the ingredients she could find in her refrigerator and her pantry and began to create a pie from scratch. She started by sifting some flour in a bowl, humming a happy song as she went, then added a pinch of salt, a little butter and a little water. She mixed everything together and, using a rolling pin, took the ball of flour and flattened it out. "There we are!" she said. "This will soon be a beautiful golden crust, nice and crisp!" But Don Quichette, absent-minded as she was, had forgotten to add sugar, and you can't make a pie without sugar. Don Quichette was not discouraged, though – she simply decided to turn this pie into a salted pie. Pepette, who was watching her every move, was perplexed: What kind of pie was this going to be? A pie with eggs, milk, onions, spinach and cheese?!? He'd never heard of such a thing... Don Quichette vigorously whipped up the eggs and the milk, brought the vegetables to a sizzle in her favorite pan, added a pinch of this and a touch of that, mixed all the ingredients together and, finally, poured the creamy mixture onto the pie crust. She sprinkled the pie with cheese before placing it in the oven. Pepette's stomach was already growling and he began to pace back and forth in the kitchen – the pie couldn't bake fast enough for him. After what seemed to him like an eternity, the timer went off with a loud ring. "Soup is served!" said Don Quichette with a big smile. "Eh?" replied Pepette, totally confused. "Soup? What soup?" "Don't be silly," laughed Don Quichette. "It's a quiche, not a soup!" Pepette could wait no longer: he threw himself on the freshly-baked quiche like someone who hadn't eaten in days. It took him only a few seconds to put the whole quiche away! "Wow, that was incredible!" he said, licking his lips. Delighted, Don Quichette suddenly had a truckload of new ideas (...) http://donquichette.com/story/
to be continued...
AT BACK TO TH E
LAND
You are invited to taste Don Quichette creations EVERY SUNDAY OF THE MONTH OF MARCH Between 1 and 3 pm www.donquichette.com
Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
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What We Bought At Valentine’s Day Market & Apothecary Sunday, February 13 at the New Amsterdam Market
Jenny and Nicole Au bought strawberry and bittersweet chocolate ice cream from The Bent Spoon
Carol Lowe bought After Dinner Tea from Terra Cura Botanicals
John Stagno and Emma Haynes bought basbousa (sweet cake) from Lore
photographS by andrew st. clair... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
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March, 2011
The 2nd Annual Best Wings in Brooklyn Competition Saturday, February 12 at Red Star, Greenpoint
Mike Ko and Elizabeth Atler
Paul Hamill and Mike Naber of Bonnie’s Grill
Nick D’Arienzo and Eric Hall of Red Star
Jimmy Ponce and Xochitl Arenas
Kathy Kirkpatrick and Matthew Kopel of Life Café
Jason Greenberg of Brooklyn Bread
Ryan Chin, Jeannie Marone, Jen Ombs of Red Star
Judges Pervaiz Shallwani, Keith Wagstaf, Linnea Covington, Ryan Hohman
photographS by andrew st. clair... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
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Knives Out
T
Joel Bukiewicz of Cut Brooklyn describes the anatomy of a kitchen knife
o better understand the kitchen knife and its nuances, I think it’s useful to discuss some anatomy. A knife can be divided into two basic sections: blade and handle. The ratio of handle to blade affects the balance of the piece. This relationship flavors the overall aesthetic of the knife. In a piece that seems proportionally natural, the blade-handle relationship often nears the golden ratio. The key is to be sure that the handle balances the blade and stays out of the way. The tail of the knife is the back end, sometimes called the ‘butt.’ You’ll hold your knife in the control grip most of the time — pinched between thumb and forefinger in the area above the heel. But when you do need to hold the blade by its handle it should fit securely. The heel is the place where the edge ends, and blade transitions to handle. A properly made cook’s knife should balance right at the heel, or slightly forward. This is also the widest part of the knife, and you need to decide what width you pre-
fer. The taller the knife, the more powerful the downstroke; the narrower, the easier it is to control your edge. A properly ground kitchen knife is about as thick as a piece of paper. If you stroke the blade between thumb and forefinger from spine to edge the knife should disappear between your fingers. The ‘flat’ is the long flat area of edge that stretches from the heel to where the edge starts to curve at the belly. You’ll use the area closer to the heel for more powerful strokes that require some leverage.
The area of the flat that transitions to the belly is the sweet spot—this is where you’ll do 80% of your work. Make sure the lines here complement your style. If you work mostly in the French style, with push or pull cuts initiated off the cutting board, you’ll want very little belly here to contend with; if you work in the German style, keeping your blade in contact with the board as you stroke your cuts, you’ll want sufficient belly to make for a long, even rocking stroke. The tip is the space of edge between the belly and point. You’ll want the curve of the belly to subside here to allow for full contact with the cutting board. The spine is the backbone of the knife, and in a good knife should begin tapering down at least 4” from the point. When held in the control grip, the side of your forefinger will rest against the corner of the spine, so the corners should be gently rounded. Balance, control, power and edge geometry are the key factors in knife design. With this in mind you’re well on your way to choosing a knife that will last a lifetime.
Brooklyn Bread
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March, 2011
The Brooklyn Bread Bouquet Ambush
In association with our friends at Park Delicatessen
exceedingly tasty baked goods
260 Fifth Avenue, Park Slope 718.230.3119 Mon 7-6 « Tue/Wed/Thu 7-7 « Fri 7-9 « Sat 8-9 « Sun 8-7
troispommespatisserie.com
fresh pastries artisanal breads desserts custom cakes
« 448 atlantic avenue, boerum hill 718.246.2402 bettybakery.com Tue-Fri 7:30-7 Sat 9-7 Sun 11-5
You’re walking down the street, minding your own business, and then some pesky person walks up to you and thrusts a beautiful bouquet of flowers into your arms. What gives? It’s actually just your friendly neighborhood Brooklyn Bread photographer, adding a little serenity to the streets of Brooklyn. Every month, we will give away a bouquet of flowers to whoever happens to walk past Park Delicatessen, in Crown Heights, our partners in this random act of kindness. This month, the lucky recipient was Sara Vander Horn, 21, recent college grad in film studies. Sara was on her way home when we caught up with her. Her favorite flower is the rose (even though she realizes it’s a bit of a cliché). Enjoy the flowers, Sara! photograph by john suscovich
March, 2011
Brooklyn Bread
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Eight good reasons to visit Michael & Ping’s 1. Healthier food – never (ever) MSG 2. Bahn Mi – Slow-roasted pork, char sui, spicy mayo on toasted baguette 3. Tamarind-glazed Spare Ribs – Slow-cooked for eight hours 4. See the magic happen in our 51-foot open kitchen 5. Wood beams + exposed brick walls = cool (but cozy) vibe 6. Great lunch specials – get out of the office already! 7. Enjoy dessert next door at 4 & 20 Blackbirds, Brooklyn’s best pie shop 8. We’re the first Certified Green Restaurant in Brooklyn* eat in « takeout « Delivery to Gowanus/Park Slope/Carroll Gardens/Cobble Hill Entire restaurant IS available for events (GREAT PARTY SPACE!) *Admittedly, this doesn’t necessarily make the food taste any better, but it DOES make everyone feel better
437 Third Ave (corner of 8th Street), Gowanus 718-788-0017
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Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
The 2nd Annual Best Wings in Brooklyn Competition Saturday, February 12 at Red Star, Greenpoint PHOTOGRAPHS BY andrew st. clair
Tom Stobnicki, Candy Washington, Alex Drywa
Eve King, Alan Lynch, Jon Patrick Castelli of The Kettle Black
Melinda Martinez, Diane Moore, Susan Cottingham, John Santos, Erin Vasquez, G.K.
Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
Page 21
Try This At Home!
S
Inspired by Brooklyn’s finest culinary creations, Cathy Erway tries them out in her own kitchen
ome restaurants gain a cult following for being an incredible exemplar of a certain “type.” For Brooklyn pizzerias, there are iconic destinations like Di Fara. For hamburger chains, In-N-Out Burger rose to unlikely gourmand esteem. Some restaurants can be everything they ought to be, passionately churning out excellent food, not thinking of hitting it big – and then they never do. For one-dollar, hole-inthe-wall dumpling places, Happy Prosperity Dumpling in Sunset Park is a home run. The dumplings at this unassuming corner shop are just like mom’s best: thin, hand-crimped wrappers, juicy fillings with finely shredded cabbage and minced pork. It’s a humble dish to begin with, and it doesn’t get fancied up at Prosperity Dumpling, either. There are just two kinds of dumplings on the menu: pork or vegetable, and they come either bowled or pan-fried. Additional staple menu items include the sweet, puffy sesame cake, golden scallion pancakes and a surprisingly good beef noodle soup with a rich, gray-brown broth heavy on Shaoxing rice wine. There’s even homemade soy milk, served hot with sugar. If your Chinese New Year last month didn’t include dumplings, it’s never too late to celebrate. In fact, having frozen dumplings on hand, whether homemade or store-bought, is a great way to whip up a simple meal or snack anytime. It takes all of ten minutes to completely thaw and cook them to crispy-bottomed perfection from the freezer. You can also just pop them into boiling water until they float to the top. If you’re making dumplings from scratch, it makes sense to make more than enough for a meal and freeze the rest, raw. I took a bag of 50 frozen dumplings home from Prosperity Dumpling on my last visit (actually labeled “frost dumpling”), but it just made me want to roll up my sleeves and make my own . Trust me, it’s fun. The recipe below yields a good, traditional dumpling or potsticker, though there are numerous ways to play around with the fillings, and I encourage that. Remember: when “pan-frying” the dumplings, you’re really only doing that for half the time; afterwards, the dumplings are doused with water and covered to steam, then cooked through for a couple more minutes, so use a pan with a lid.
Pork & Scallion Dumplings Makes about 38 dumplings 1 lb ground pork ¼ lb shrimp, shelled, de-veined and finely chopped (optional) 1 bunch scallions, finely chopped 1 cup finely shredded napa cabbage 1 ½ tablespoons corn starch 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 teaspoon sesame oil 1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger ¼ teaspoon white pepper ½ teaspoon salt 38 pre-made round dumpling wrappers 2 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil To make the filling, combine all the ingredients except for the dumpling wrappers and the oil in a bowl. Mix with a spoon to evenly distribute the ingredients. Sprinkle the soy sauce and cornstarch into the mixture a small bit at the time. Cover and refrigerate for at least one hour. Placing a round dumpling skin flat on your hand, drop a tablespoon of filling into its center. Dip your finger into a small bowl
of water and trace the edge of the wrapper. Fold the wrapper in half and make a pinch at the top; next, bring a piece of the edge about half an inch to the right of the pinch over to the pinch. (This will cause the wrapper to fold diagonally on the right hand side of the dumpling.) Bring a piece of the edge half an inch to the left over to the pinch next. Pinch the pieces you brought to the center shut and continue to seal the edges to the left and right until the dumpling is fully sealed. Heat the oil in a large, lidded skillet. Once the oil is hot, line the dumplings in a circle around the edge of the pan. Fill the center with as many dumplings as will fit (you will probably need to cook a few batches). Cook on high for two minutes. Add enough water to the pan to cover about one quarter of the height of the dumplings, reduce heat to medium, and cover. Let cook for about four minutes. Lift cover and cook until all the water has evaporated. Remove potstickers from the pan with a spatula and serve with soy sauce and/or chili sauce for dipping.
Brooklyn Bread
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March, 2011
The 2nd Annual Best Wings in Brooklyn Competition Saturday, February 12 at Red Star, Greenpoint PHOTOGRAPHS BY andrew st. clair
A café firmly in the “Great European tradition”, “serving NY’s best coffee” in the “most articulate space around” – according to its cult following of creative directors and writers.
Café Regular
318a 11th Street, Brooklyn Sun-Wed 7am-7pm Thu-Sat 7am-8pm
Damon Smith and Anisha Phillips
Café Regular du Nord 158a Berkeley Place, Brooklyn Sun-Sat 7am-8pm
FOODSHED farmers’ market. Sundays, 11-5. 388 Atlantic Avenue. Now accepting EBT.
fresh FISH from montauk a varIety of
BreaDS & CHeeSeS muSHroomS
freSh, local
FruItS & veGetaBLeS
FreSH, DrIeD & Frozen
paSta & ravIoLI
orGanIC eGGS,
mILk & yoGurt
manGaLISta
pICkLeS, CHutneyS & Caponata
pork pLuS
Jamal White, Ronald Lee, and Jerald Lubers
Stop by for a nutritiouS noSh.
LoBSter roLLS, wInter SoupS,
CoFFee, tea, paStrIeS, CraB CakeS, GLuten-Free SweetS & SavorIeS & more!
www.foodshedmarket.com
Tom Wrobel, Esteban Mantella, Ciara Finneran of Brooklyn Flipsters
March, 2011
Brooklyn Bread
The 2nd Annual Best Wings in Brooklyn Competition Saturday, February 12 at Red Star, Greenpoint PHOTOGRAPHS BY andrew st. clair
Christine and Anthony LoPorto and Liza and Peter Lan of Bean Post Wings
Christine Rafee, Kieran Breen, David Conn of Keg and Lantern
Peggy Burdo, Scott Burdo, Helen Moncayo
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Brooklyn Bread
Page 24
March, 2011
The Valentine’s Day Market & Apothecary Sunday, February 13 at the New Amsterdam Market
Melissa Gad and Zeynep Enkavi
Theresa Zhen and Linda Shum
Stephanie Leveene and Nicol Hammond
Debra Mitan and Richard Reyle
Chad and Hilary Lear
Sarah Bowman and Binh Nguyen
photographS by ANDREW ST. CLAIR... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
Page 25
My Perfect Brooklyn Day By Emily Isaac, owner of Trois Pommes Patisserie in Park Slope
O
Emily Isaac starts off her perfect day with a Stumptown coffee and a trip to Dharma Yoga Center. Photograph by Allen Ying
n my perfect Brooklyn day I wake up early, feed the cats and look out my window at the backyards of the brownstones on 3rd Street. If it’s spring, the trees are blooming and all of the fire escapes are covered with flowers and plants. I always head over to the bakery to check in and have a Stumptown coffee. Though it’s hard for me to drink any other kind of coffee, if I am not going to the bakery I will head over to the Postmark Café on 5th Avenue and 6th Street. This tiny place has pretty good coffee, as does Café Martin on 5th Avenue between 4th and 5th streets. After my coffee, I will stroll up to 6th Avenue and admire the beautiful buildings and trees on my way over to the Dharma Yoga Center on St Mark’s. This new studio is a great new addition the area. It’s really pretty with its floor-to-ceiling windows and saffron walls. As soon as I walk in there I can feel myself relax. The teachers are great and it’s by donation only. It reminds me of the places I used to take yoga back in the day
before it was such a big business. After a challenging yoga class, I am really hungry so I usually grab a bagel – the new bagel place on 7th Avenue makes bagels that are always fresh and delicious. Or I will head over to Prospect Heights to Tom’s Diner and get banana pancakes or eggs and grits while listening to Tommy Dorsey. If it’s a Saturday or Sunday I will head over to the Greenmarket. At Grand Army Plaza I like the produce and herbs at Maxwell’s Farm Stand, plus the farmer looks like Clint Eastwood. I will load up on lavender and lemon verbena to make into ice cream and blueberries to turn into pie. I also like to get sour cherries and apricots from Ed at Tree Licious. If it’s Sunday I will swing by Alex’s Farm Stand at the 3rd Street Farmers Market for fresh flowers and tomatoes. After that, I will take a bike ride with my boyfriend out to Coney Island. I love Nathan’s hot dogs. Once a year I have to make sure I eat two with a large order of waffle fries. I like walking along the boardwalk and heading over to Brighton Beach. After
taking a dip in the ocean it’s fun to have coffee at one of Russian cafés on the boardwalk. It’s a great place to people watch, and you feel like you are in another country. In between I’ll do some shopping and grooming. I will buy a dress at Lucia, some Sven clogs at Diana Kane and some greeting cards at Scaredy Kat (all on 5th Avenue). I’ll get my hair cut by Rudy at Fez Salon on 5th Avenue and colored by Chai at Le Petit Chandelier on 3rd Avenue. After that, I would head over to Fort Greene. I would go see a movie at BAM and then walk over to Olea for dinner. I would start with the falafel-encrusted artichokes and some hummus followed by the whole fish of the day and several glasses of wine. For dessert I’d head back to the bakery and have some of that lavender ice cream. Then I would cross the street to the High Dive and have a nightcap before heading back to 3rd Street and falling into a deep sleep. Trois Pommes Patisserie is located at 260 5th Avenue, Park Slope, 718-230-3119, troispommespatisserie.com
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Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
The Valentine’s Day Market & Apothecary Sunday, February 13 at the New Amsterdam Market PHOTOGRAPHS BY andrew st. clair
Liz Gutman and Jen King
Gabrielle Carbone, Tyler Richards, and David Zaback of The Bent Spoon
Anton Nocito of P and H Soda Company
March, 2011
Brooklyn Bread
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Enrich Your Life... Adopt An Animal
Three beautiful creatures need homes... call Dog Habitat Rescue at 718-395-2298 or email rescue@doghabitat.org
«
Ella is a nine-month-old Rottweiler/German Shepherd mix who was found as a stray in Brooklyn. She came to the Dog Habitat very thin and malnourished. She’s regained her health and is ready for a new home. This female pup is great with other dogs and would thrive in a home with another canine companion.
«
Misty was a stray who was found by a Good Samaritan and brought to our rescue shelter. Misty has a beautiful set of baby blue eyes and an energetic disposition. She’s approximately four years old and in good health. She loves to run and would do well in a home without cats or small children.
«
Kiki is a peppy four-month-old Pomeranian mix puppy who came to our rescue with her siblings and mother. This cutie weighs about five pounds and probably will be around 10-12 pounds in adulthood. She’s up to date with her shots. All Kiki needs now is a loving owner to take her home.
Brooklyn Bread
Page 28
March, 2011
The Valentine’s Day Market & Apothecary Sunday, February 13 at the New Amsterdam Market
Makale Faber-Cullen of Lore
Daria and Marilyn Siegel
Cem and Emma Ufakacan
Madeleine and Jim Genia
Hunter Russell and Susanna FelixDiaz
Patricia Lopez and Ina Santos
Melissa, Calvin, and Emma Chu
Vincent Favella and Kat Carter
Elizabeth Mitchell and Amy Piper
photographS by andrew st. clair... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
March, 2011
Brooklyn Bread
Page 29
Enrich Your Life... Adopt An Animal
Three beautiful creatures need homes... call Dog Habitat Rescue at 718-395-2298 or email rescue@doghabitat.org
«
November is a pretty four-yearold Cocker Spaniel female who was rescued from a puppy mill in Virginia. She’s a petite girl with a beautiful coat and she’s very affectionate. She’d be a wonderful addition to a family and would get along well with children. She’s very playful and loves to cuddle and take long naps.
«
Perry is a three-year-old corgi mix. He was rescued from a high-kill animal shelter in the south. He tends to be a little shy at first, but once you show him some affection he warms up quickly. Perry weighs about 12 pounds. He is fully housetrained and ready for a new home, so call us today so you can meet him!
«
Lee is an adorable poodle/Bichon mix. He was abandoned by his owner and we pulled him from the euthanasia list. He is approximately five years old. You’ll find he’s very sweet and good with kids and other dogs. All he needs now is a loving caretaker to bring him home and give him lots of love.
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Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
Page 31
An Afternoon At Simple CafĂŠ Saturday, February 12 in Williamsburg
Amie Garrett, Tanya Quigley
Paul Russell, Lisa Hawkins
Matt Foster, Nadia Pervez
Jami Fauss, Billy Goodman
Jenna Choate, Alex Elliott
Kelly Herbert and Honey Herbert
Maggie Rimassa, Kristen Reed
Alexis Blais, Bruna Martins
Gurion Manber, Kara Tatick
photographS by allen ying... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
#2: The Taco Trek Californians often complain that the East Coast lacks of quality tacos – those tortilla-wrapped wonders of fish and meats, topped with salsa, guacamole, and a kick of fresh lime – but we believe our borough can hold it’s own in the taco department. Armed with only a MetroCard and determined to prove that the West Coast isn’t the only coast to master this famous south-of-the-border snack, three enthusiasts set out to Sunset Park, Williamsburg and Prospect Heights aiming to find the best tacos in Brooklyn. In preparation for our trek, we did some research. Turns out that the earliest documented taco feast was in 1520, noted by Spanish soldier Bernal Diaz del Castillo. According to his tome A True History of the Conquest of New Spain, conquistador Hernan Cortés threw one helluva party, and tacos were the main event. Anthropologists believe origin of the taco lies in the primitive kitchens of ancient inhabitants of the Valley of Mexico. Although back then, a taco could include meat, fish or... small live insects and snails. Pass the salsa por favor! Bec Couche Tulcingo Deli VI Before setting out, we floated the “One Rule” for our taco safari: to avoid premature fullness there would only be one taco per person per stop and no non-water beverages. After our order was met with a blank stare by the waitress in this family-style restaurant, we pooled our basic Spanish to get this safari on the road – a trend that followed at all the Sunset Park stops. We ordered one chicken (pollo), one beef (bistec), and one chorizo (chorizo). They came out coronet style, overflowing with juicy filling and fresh guacamole. The chicken was a stellar standout. 5520 5th Avenue (between 55th Street and 56th Street). Ricos Tacos y Antojitos You can’t miss this joint, mostly thanks to the giant mural on the outside wall featuring a chipper pig in a pot – apparently really happy to be turned into a series snacks. Unsure whether this is cute or creepy, we step into what feels like a roadside taco stop in Tijuana. Bustling shoulder to shoulder with Mexicans, we are the only “gringos” in the place. Flexing our pidgin Spanish, we up the ante and order three tacos: the tongue, the stewed chicken and another beef taco. They came out in a more traditional style, unrolled, and served with wedges of lime and radish, begging for liberal portions of the complimentary guacamole. The result? Really tasty tacos – bonus authenticity points for the paper plates. Feeling not nearly as full as expected and thinking I could bend the One Rule, I convince my taco team it wouldn’t be in the spirit of adventure to ignore the sweet creamy charms of horchata. Laying blame squarely on the head of my high school Spanish teacher, I mistakenly ordered a large. It came out in a bucket-sized takeout container with a straw. For one traveler, this stop proved to be a little more filling than intended. 505 51st Street (between 5th Avenue and 6th Avenue). Tacos Matamoros After learning rules were made for a reason I snacked on free corn chips and salsa while my companions continued the safari in my honor. The tacos here are offered in two sizes – regular and super. Despite the promise of the super being loaded with guacamole (and feeling the weight of the previous snacks) my partners opt for the regular-sized carne asada (thinly sliced beef) and al pastor (slow-cooked pork). At only $1.25 each it was the steal of the day. 4508 5th Avenue (between 45th Street and 46th Street). Guerro Food Center Despite the opportunity to make the trip to the next stop a little more scenic, we declined to walk through the cemetery, agreeing that meandering through dead people, regardless of how famous or historically significant, would put a damper on the taco task at hand. We found this spot nestled inside of a standard corner deli and were pleased with how different and novel this stop was from the others. The al pastor (pineapple and pork with cilantro and onion), the cesina (salted beef) and the barbacoa (BBQ pork) all came highly recommended from fellow patrons, and we ordered accordingly. All were delicious, but the al pastor’s juicy unexpected flavor earned its place as the crowd pleaser. 722 5th Avenue (between 23rd Street and 24th Street). La Superior The next stop landed us in a Williamsburg favorite. Eager to gauge the hipster take on the taco, we opted for a shrimp, a fish and a shredded chicken – and for the first time on this trip, we ordered them in English. The refined tacos came out hot, fresh, light and absolutely delicious. Unlike some of the Sunset Park spots, the salsas and guacamole cost extra, but the Williamsburg mark-up only took the price to $2.50, and for a location so close to the bars and nightlife action, it seemed fair. 295 Berry Street (between 2nd Street and 3rd Street). Chavellas We reached our final destination in time to catch their $2 taco happy hour (4pm-6pm). Decorated in traditional Day of the Dead décor, this 10-table treasure feels like it’s been transplanted straight from Oaxaca. No longer needing to gauge the gut for further stops, we order several fish tacos, a few potato and chorizo, and give the chipotle chicken and steak taco a whirl. The tacos are huge, and every bit as authentic-tasting as the ones in Sunset Park. To celebrate the completion of the taco safari, we all vote to break the One Rule and order several Modelo Especials. 732 Classon Avenue (between Park Place and Prospect Place). Illustration by Liza Corsillo
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Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
An Afternoon At Simple Café
Saturday, February 12 in Williamsburg photographS by allen ying
Krystian, Ashley, Maggie, and Jon Tibett
Katie Chapin, Sara Cobaugh, Don Sticksel
Adam, Sam, Armando, Samy, Simple Café Staff
Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
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Gumbo Dumbo
A
Bec Couche talks with Chef Reggie of Water Street Restaurant
iming to provide a spicy culinary kick between the Manhattan and Brooklyn bridges, Dumbo’s Water Street Restaurant has had a Southern revamp. Swapping out most of the previous traditional pub fare menu, waitresses in plaid shirts now serve Chef Reggie Taylor’s signature dishes – Big B’s Deep-Fried Deviled Eggs, Hickory Spice Slow-Cooked Rack of Ribs (the menu highlight), Down and Dirty in the Delta Homemade Crab Cakes and Pardon Me Prawns. Loyalists need not be alarmed: the burger made famous in the restaurant’s 10-year tenure is still on the menu under a new name, the Mason-Dixon Line Water Street Burger, and is even the star of a $10 Monday night burger and brew deal. We talked to Chef Reggie, 45, about making the switch: How long have you been with Water Street? I’ve been here for seven years. What was the reason behind giving the menu a Southern twist? Well, we’re hard to find. We don’t get a lot of foot traffic unless there are shows at Saint Ann’s Warehouse, and we wanted to encourage more of the neighborhood to come down and check us out. One of the owners saw a woman on a cooking show and she was making a really quick, delicious Southern dish. We hadn’t changed the menu much over the years, and it got us talking. Were you into the idea? Yeah! When I first got into the business, I was working with Cajun chefs. I took a lot of inspiration from them. I went to New Orleans for the first time in 1996 and the food was great. The jambalaya, the gumbo – it was amazing. You go to the mom and pop hole-inthe-wall restaurants off the avenues, and the food is the best. Also my father was from Kentucky. He was in the military but he was also a chef. He was a great cook and he loved what he did. Is your dad the reason you got into cooking? Well – kind of. My father loved what he did, but he got stressed out in the kitchen, and I never wanted that. I was really into sports – basketball and track. I was dishwashing at a restaurant when I was about 13, and there was this crazy brunch service. In the middle of the shift, the sous chef walked out, and I’ve been cooking ever since.
“I was dishwashing at a restaurant when I was 13, and they had a crazy brunch service. In the middle of the shift, the sous chef walked out, and I’ve been cooking ever since.” Photography by Kim Madalinski
Did you get back into sports again? No, not really. Things changed – but I love cooking now – I love it. Do any of your father’s recipes feature in the Water Street Restaurant? Maybe the ribs. The secret is in the cinnamon rub. My father’s was spicier. I like mine better, they are a little bit more mellow. What are your other favorite menu standouts? The Catfish in a Blanket – the pineapple glaze is pretty special. The deep-fried deviled eggs are an unusual concept – what’s the story behind them? I was watching “Down Home With the Neelys,” and they were doing deviled eggs. I didn’t think it was that special, but then I saw they were battering and frying them. If you like deviled eggs – you’ll love
these. What have been some of the most popular items on the Water Street menu? The Ribs and the Blackened Salmon are very popular – the fried chicken gets a couple of hits too. The secret to the chicken is in the seasoning. What if someone orders something that’s not on the menu – does your dad’s fiery kitchen temper come out? No. Not if we’re not busy… If we’re slow we’re happy to cater to individual requests. In keeping with the Southern theme, on Sundays from March 3 brunch will be served to the accompaniment of gospel choirs competing for charity. Check their website for details at waterstreetrestaurant.com. The Water Street Restaurant is located at 66 Water Street, 718-625-9352.
Brooklyn Bread
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March, 2011
Brooklyn Dirt: Talks On Urban Farming And Gardening Wednesday, February 16 at Sycamore, and hosted by Prospect Farm and Sustainable Flatbush
Christopher Bride
Faith Justice
Naomi Donabedian
Sierra McCleary-Harris, of Pavement and Pieces
Jaclyn Jablkowski
Barbara Taguiaferro
David Warrell
Getting the dirt on farming and gardening
photographS by john suscovich... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
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Brooklyn Dirt: Talks On Urban Farming And Gardening Wednesday, February 16 at Sycamore, and hosted by Prospect Farm and Sustainable Flatbush
Anne Pope, Keka Marzagao
Adrienne Imbriaco
Kerry Fagan Goin, Patrick Fagan
Speakers Chris Kreussling, Jay Smith
Ann Simkins
Mimi Chan, Kyles Hicks
photographS by john suscovich... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
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Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
NY ChiliFest 2011 At Chelsea Market Monday, January 30
photographS by JOHN SUSCOVICH
Chefs from Dumont
Jim Lahey and the folks from Co.
Holley Davis, Sara Joo, Jessica Lau
Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
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Confessions Of An Organic Pioneer
I
David Basham talks with Bec Couche about how healthy food has evolved in Brooklyn – and beyond
t’s hard to define a health food store without corporate giant Whole Foods coming into the picture. Back to the Land opened almost a decade beforehand and still provides the Park Slope neighborhood with an educated, additivefree organic choice for their grocery shopping. We talked to Back to the Land’s David Basham, the guy who’s been running the show for 30 years, about staying relevant in a corporate-run world... Back to the Land opened in 1971. How has the neighborhood changed? When the store first started this was an Irish neighborhood. It was rowdy, there was endemic drug use, prostitution and bars on every block. There was growing interest in an alternative lifestyle to that, and the people who opened Back to The Land saw an opportunity. When did you come on board? It was 1981 when I started. The most challenging part was securing organic produce. We had to rely on a weak chain of supply, and the farmer’s word that it was organic. There was no certification; the only marker was that organic produce had to look like hell.
What was in demand in the organic market then? People wanted poison-free food – without chemicals, without dyes. We sold organic peanut butter, organic flour, organic apple juice and dried fruit; there wasn’t the explosion of products we see now. Has the term organic changed it’s meaning? Yes, there are Federal Organic Standards, and the government technically owns the word. It’s more of a detriment now than a benefit. Big agriculture businesses buy the smaller businesses and trade organizations are brought in to control their expression. Big money follows a trend – the integrity and principles are compromised, and then you end up with things like genetic modification. How important is it for you to be aware of genetic modification, food allergies and diet trends? There are more trends now: gluten free, low carb, raw food, and now locally sourced food is big. The issue of genetically modified foods has also been gaining interest, and that’s the horrifying one. The USDA just approved the planting of genetically modified alfalfa [used primarily to feed livestock]. That will change the DNA of all that
David Basham says that back in the 80s it was difficult to pinpoint which foods were organic. “The only marker was that organic produce had to look like hell.” Photograph by Allen Ying
animal feed. Studies show that genetically modified food causes sterility in animals. When you feed rats genetically modified soy, the second generation are half as fertile, and the third don’t reproduce at all. Our customers come here to avoid all that. We also reach out with educational material to our customers so when they’re not shopping here they can be discriminating. Do you struggle to stay competitive in the organic industry? We have to stay ahead of the curve. It’s our responsibility to find the things people need before anyone else, and then educate them on what it is they are looking for. Every bodega sells Jason shampoos – our challenge is to keep learning and keep doing the best we can to help people. How do you feel about the Whole Foods phenomenon? Whole Foods’ primary business is to take the concept of “natural,” market it well, and charge a premium. Now that young people have grown up with Whole Foods they see that as natural food. They’ve done a great job, but 65% of their business is in prepared foods made in big industrial kitchens. It’s a bit contrived for them to call themselves the first organic supermarket. Are you in competition? Yes, but we are the model of what an independent health food store is like: family run and operating to serve a small community. It’s more personal here. We didn’t want to be part of the corporate world. We want to remain human with our relationships. With the economic recession, I feel that maybe there might be a return to the local. People like coming here. We’ve seen generations of kids here. I’ve read you’re also the “vitamin guy,” is that another specialized service you offer? I know a lot about herbs and supplements. People are often looking for an alternative to what they have experienced with their doctors, so they come in wanting a way to feel better – and with less side effects. I continue to be excited about people thanking me for helping them regain their health. What’s in the future for Back to the Land? We need to become more involved online and with social media – it’s a good way to hear what people are saying. The other day a customer said, “I love the smell and the feel of this place.” Then he added, “It’s like walking into the 1970s.” I’m not sure if that’s entirely a good thing. Back to the Land is at 142 7th Avenue (between 2nd Avenue and 3rd Avenue), 718-768-5654.
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Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
NY ChiliFest 2011 At Chelsea Market Monday, January 30
photographS by JOHN SUSCOVICH
Eric Lee, Andrea Lee, Ed Tam
Brianne Olivieri, Lauren Turkington, Sara Anderson
Jill Fernandez, Jane-Marie Eichhorn, Peter Krase
Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
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From Soil To Plate
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’ve been cooped up for the past couple of weeks. My family has drawn close to prepare to say goodbye to one of our most beloved members, my father. As it is the dead of winter, outdoor diversions are few and we’re all fighting cabin fever and short tempers. It’s only in the evening, after a day full of tip-toeing around one another, that we all come together to sit at the table for a meal, heaving a collective sigh of relief that we have made it through one more day. Though my appetite and urge to cook have both subsided during this sad time, once I’m in the kitchen the rituals of chopping, peeling, sautéing and mixing have a tremendously therapeutic effect. It quiets my nerves and softens the worries of the day. I find myself constantly wishing that, with all this time on my hands, we found ourselves in this situation during the growing season. Then I would have a garden to futz about in and fresh produce to work with. But then there is something strangely appropriate about digging into the drawers for
The monthly green report by Sara Franklin root-cellared crops, much in the same way we are digging within ourselves for emotional reserves, trying to find the patience to be kind to one another in spite of our heavy grief. It is the simplest of dishes that I find myself drawn to at this moment, those that are familiar and will surely nourish. My stepmother and I keep a drawer full of yams as they are our go-to for the centerpiece of a light, last-minute supper. Recently I roasted several, admiring their strange and gangly shape as I scrubbed their skin. Some time later I pulled the roots from the oven. Against the seemingly interminable white backdrop of this winter’s snow the earthy orange of the yams’ flesh brought in a moment of warmth, a promise of new color and revival to come as we march inevitably closer to spring. I dressed them with freshly minced ginger briefly sautéed in butter and finished with a bit of cayenne. My dear friend Molly, a holistically minded nurse, made these yams for me as a part of an immune-boosting menu when we first found out my father was terminally
ill and I had come down with a fever. They worked their charm then, and I have thought of her kindness and their sustaining power every time I have eaten them since. Molly’s Immunity Yams Organic yams (orange or white Japanese variety), 1 per person Salted butter Fresh minced ginger, about 1 tsp per yam Ground cayenne to taste Maple syrup (optional) Preheat oven to 475F. Scrub yams (organic is especially important here, as you will be eating the skin) with a vegetable brush and pierce them all over with a fork. Bake naked for 4o minutes or until easily pierced through with a fork. While they cool, melt butter in a saute pan, add ginger and sautée over high heat just until brown. Turn off heat and add cayenne to taste. Pour butter mixture over split yams. Add a drizzle of maple syrup if desired, and season with salt and pepper.
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March, 2011
Four & Twenty Blackbirds
WE LOVE YOU Four & Twenty Blackbirds 439 3rd Avenue at 8th Street Gowanus, Brooklyn www.birdsblack.com
Pie by the slice in the shop, whole pies are made to order with 48 hours notice. Please call to order: tel 718.499.2917
Closed Mondays Tuesday to Friday: 8am–7pm Saturday: 9am–7pm Sunday: 10am–6pm
Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
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Shopping Local
The finest goods from Brooklyn stores and artisans ... by Sophie Slesinger
Hand Coffee Grinder At Stumptown Coffee Brew Bar
Seasonal Bitters By A. B. Smeby Bittering Co.
Salsa From Brooklyn Salsa Company
Add some elbow grease to your morning routine with this useful and sharp-looking hand coffee grinder from the Red Rooster Trading Company. Pick one up with some freshly roasted beans at the Stumptown roastery in Red Hook. Open Saturdays and Sundays, 10am5pm. Stumptown Coffee Brew Bar, 219 Van Brunt Street, stumptowncoffee.com.
Now that we’ve all figured out what “muddled” actually means, impress your friends with a signature drink (or two) featuring seasonal bitters at your next soirée. Tempting flavors such as Lemon Verbena and Highland Heather come in carefully crafted 60ml bottles, so the locally sourced ingredients will stay as fresh as possible. absmebybitteringco.com.
Salsa just got a little more special thanks to the enthusiasm of the Brooklyn Salsa Company. With a passion for city agriculture, social change and condiments with a kick, the Salsa Company team offers a variety for each New York borough. Brooklyn, no surprise here, is “The Hot”. Available at Fairway, Whole Foods, and online at bksalsa.com.
Wrist Watches By David Sokosh
Sweater Patterns From Brooklyn Tweed
Seasonings From Two For The Pot
Your phone may tell time, but it will never replace the simple style of a watch. Brooklyn Watches, a new line by David Sokosh carried by Clinton Hill Clocks, combine vintage and contemporary pieces to create signature wristwear. You’ll never have to charge them, either. See them at the Brooklyn Flea on Saturdays. Brooklyn Flea, 1 Hanson Place, brooklynflea.com.
Spring may be coming, but there is still time to finally knit that sweater you keep talking about. Follow a pattern by Jared Flood, who designed the Made in Brooklyn line for yarn company Brooklyn Tweed. Flood designs classic and stylish looks, so no one will know you made it yourself. That is, until you tell them and swiftly take reign over the DIY kingdom. brooklyntweed.net.
Tackle your more elaborate recipes with some ingredients from Two for the Pot, an intimate shop off of Atlantic Avenue boasting an impressive spice, coffee, and tea menu. You can purchase small amounts, so that jar of fresh ground ginger doesn’t end up sitting in your cupboard for weeks in between uses. Two for the Pot, 200 Clinton Street, 718-855-8173.
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Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
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Love Thy Neighbor
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A column showcasing the best of local artisans... by Joann Kim
ranola was once a timetested symbol for the treehugging hippie of the 60s. It’s since received an impressive upgrade in taste and style, serving as a key representative of the local food scene. A healthy dose of hipster cool and a vast array of titillating combinations keeps the tradition alive, and Woodside Bakehouse is at the forefront of the granola movement with its flavor-packed bars. Founder and baker Sarah Peltier works as a receptionist for a real estate development company, but when she’s not maneuvering company calendars she devotes her time to baking and serving healthy snacks. It all started with Rockaway Taco, the beloved cozy taco joint near said waterfront where Sarah is a chef. Owner David Selig loved the granola bars, which she’d previously shared with friends and family, and encouraged her to branch out and share the recipe with the community. This onewoman operation maintains a micro-company status: Sarah not only makes the food but packages and labels them all individually using biodegradable plastic wrapping and recyclable paper. “I design and hand stamp them while sitting at the office,” she says. Talk about tender loving care! Though her devoted fanbase continues to grow, Sarah is not yet ready to pursue her baking endeavors full time. “I’m not there yet... It’s scary to think I can transition this small project into something that supports me. I get excited to see people enjoying my products but I want to be smart and not be in debt forever.” Running a successful business takes more than a dream, as Sarah soberly points out.
The pressures of capital, space, and production can be daunting. The lack of adequate resources in the city, especially affordable commercial kitchens, can be disheartening. Still, Sarah continues to bake her 99.9% organic granola bars (the maple supplier is not yet certified) using maple syrup from Vermont, rolled brown oats, apple juice, sweetened dried cranberries, hemp nuts and peanut butter. The bars’ short shelf life is proof they are fresh and real, unlike those that have been sitting on the shelf for months. “They are tasty, vegan and high-protein. It’s high in carbs, but what granola bar isn’t?” says Sarah. When asked why the bars are called El Conejo, she replied ever so bluntly and humorously, “It’s a play on rabbit food, or hippie food. Same shit.” Sarah wouldn’t share her granola bar recipe but instead taught us to make her delicious waffles. “I recently discovered they’re perfect on Sundays alongside Virgin Marys, roasted hash, and an exotic array of toppings. It’s the perfect fuel for building an igloo!” says Sarah.
Winter Waffle Party Makes 8, 4” waffles This solid recipe is easily doubled or quadrupled for a large group. Make a large batch and freeze the remainder – you’ll be famished after construction. Dry 1 ½ tablespoon flax meal 1 cup all-purpose flour ¼ cup buckwheat flour 2 tablespoon unrefined sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder ½ teaspoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon salt Wet ¼ cup warm water 1 ½ cup unsweetened almond milk 3 tablespoon sunflower oil ½ teaspoon vanilla Mix the flax with water and set aside. Combine the dry ingredients together in a large bowl. Mix wet ingredients with flax, and whisk into the dry ingredients. Depending on your waffle maker, cook for approximately 10 minutes, or until the steam stops.
“In a café-crazed town, Iris is one of a kind.” “Best Café” in 2010 “Best of New York” issue, New York magazine Stumptown coffee ¯ Pastries, cookies and biscuits, all baked in-house All-day breakfast classics ¯ Sandwiches ¯ Salads For full menu and more details, visit us online at www.iriscafenyc.com 20 Columbia Place, b/w State & Joralemon | Brooklyn Heights | 718-722-7395 No computers or iPads please – take some time out from the real world!
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Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
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Less Is More
Bec Couche at the opening of Brooklyn Botanic Garden’s new bonsai collection, Graceful Perseverance
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Guests are entertained by the Japanese Folk Dance Institute of New York on Friday, February 11. Photograph by Allen Ying
n intellectual edgy veggie crowd gathered for the Small Scale event at Brooklyn Botanic Garden’s Palm House to celebrate the opening of the spring bonsai collection, Graceful Perseverance. After the first of several traditional performances by the Japanese Folk Dance Institute of New York, kimono-clad waitresses served 12 mini-versions of different Japanese dishes like itty-bitty carved pumpkins simmered in kombu kelp broth and oshi tofu with organic micro wasabi sprouts, prepared
by Bushwick’s Momo Sushi Shack. Restaurant owner Philip Gilmour guided the crowd through the meal, advising the counterclockwise eating order, and Hiromi Iuchi of Kuramoto US paired each morsel with a different type of sake. The pint-size cuisine was novel, but the star of the night was the exhibition’s curator. Bonsai enthusiast Julian Velasco treated guests to guided tours of the exhibition, explaining the philosophical and spiritual aspects of bonsai. As guests marveled at the rotating collection of 80 miniature trees, shivering a little in
a greenhouse kept at 34°F to mimic nature’s challenging conditions, he explained the art of the bonsai practice, emphasizing the respectful partnership between the grower and the tree. “The tree absorbs the personality of the grower, and the bonsai reflects their grower’s image. People think bonsai are small because they are constricted. This isn’t true, the tree believes it is much bigger,” he said. Who knew? Graceful Perseverance, Brooklyn Botanic Gardens, February 2 – May 1.
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March, 2011
The Small Scale Event At Brooklyn Botanic Garden Friday, February 11, featuring Momo Sushi Shack
Mark Ramadan, Rachel Crawford
Cheryl Berkowitz, Joshua Ranger
Hisashi Miyao, Yoshihiro Terazono
Yomi Richardson, Gayle Bangalan
Ashley Prudhomme, Eric Dinsdale
 Claudia Barfoot, Maria Dacosta
Sean McDade, Stephanie McKinnon McDade
Brittany Reilly, Nathan Xander
Courtney Powell, Tate Nova
photographS by allen ying... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
March, 2011
Brooklyn Bread
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The Small Scale Event At Brooklyn Botanic Garden Friday, February 11, featuring Momo Sushi Shack photographS by allen ying
Gabriel McMackin, Rebecca McMackin, Katy Keiffer
Miami Comes to Brooklyn
Belinda Pasqua, Derrick Hawkins, Danon Hinty
Ranked #1 Cuban restaurant in the five boroughs by Yelp Serving up mostly traditional Cuban dishes from a foodie approach (such as our house-smoked Spanish chorizo which flavors many of our dishes) while leaving room to play around with ingredients (such as our grilled cheese that has fried sweet plantains and our espresso mustard)
Catering Available 393 Classon Ave (b/w Greene and Clifton) in Clinton Hill/Bed Stuy 718-623 Cuba (2822) Pilarny.com find us on
Anatol Yusef, Phillip Gilmour, owner of Momo Sushi Shack
pilarny
closed mondays
–
limited seating
Brooklyn Bread
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March, 2011
The Small Scale Event At Brooklyn Botanic Garden Friday, February 11, featuring Momo Sushi Shack
Pauline Nee, Julia Simmons
Jenny Guerrerio, Katie Noonan
Rob Dudley, Maia Jamadi
Deji Olukotun, Carolynn Johnson
Lai-Chung Poon, Jacqueline Farinella
photographS by allen ying... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Advertising in Brooklyn Bread isn’t just economical (This nice big half-page costs as little as $104) It’s also effective... people LOVE this magazine
“There is no better way for us to reach our core customers than in Brooklyn Bread.” – MICHAEL SCLAFANI, PARK DELICATESSEN OWNER
For more information, call us on 917-740-1072 Or email advertise@BrooklynBreadPress.com
Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
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NY ChiliFest 2011 At Chelsea Market Monday, January 30
Noah Bernamoff and Rae Cohen of Mile End
Nick Suarez and Theo Peck of Food Experiments
David Quitana, Kendall Jaques of Amy’s Bread
Jean Adamson, Dan Ross-Leutwyler (Vinegar Hill House)
Dave Townsend, Nahvae Frost of Brookvin
John Mantia, Todd Galin
Mark McKnight, Alicia Miller
Working the Tap From Brooklyn Brewery
Alex Zolli, Yuon de Tassigny of Fette Sau
photographS by john suscovich... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Page 52
Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
NY ChiliFest 2011 At Chelsea Market Monday, January 30
photographS by JOHN SUSCOVICH
Angelo Wilmak, Chris Darachini, Anthony Falco of Roberta’s
Tyler Kord, Katherine Pangaro, Jareaux Glenn of No.7
Zachary Darrup, Josh Sharkey, Rich Crosby of Bark Hot Dogs
Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
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The Wine Column
Josh Cohen of Blanc et Rouge wine store offers his picks of the month.
Paul Jaboulet, Hermitage 1997 ($27) If you daydream about abandoning life in the city, moving to the woods and foraging for sustenance, this is the wine for you. Intense aromas of mushrooms and white truffle give way to an exceptionally complex palate of oxidized sherry, hazelnuts, wet soil and, not surprisingly, more mushrooms. This cerebral wine is the perfect companion for a long night spent pondering the best hitchhiking route to the Adirondacks.
Cave de Saumur, Saumur 2004 ($18) This lovely, delicate wine comes Saumur in the heart of the Loire Valley and is made entirely from Chenin Blanc. The nose is a refreshing blast of ocean air and crushed honeysuckle. On the palate, a hint of oxidation mingles with the pure, honeyed, spring-timey of goodness of Loire Valley Chenin Blanc. Made only in select vintages, it will pair beautifully with a rich seafood dish or a day with temperatures in the 60s.
Domaine Leon Barral, Faugeres 2004 ($24) Didier Barral’s farm animals are free to roam his vineyards, eat the weeds and grass and subsequently help “fertilize” the vines, so if you like your Rhone varietals with a hefty dose of barnyard funk, don’t hesitate to pick up a bottle of this naturally made Faugeres. Deep, rich Bing cherry and black raspberry on the front and mid-palate, balanced by perfect acidity and plenty of the aforementioned funk on the back end.
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Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
Café Of The Month Black Gold Records, Carroll Gardens
Owners Jeff Ogiba and Sommer Xavier Santoro Photographs by Andrew St. Clair
your local destination for all sweet treats We can be found at Brooklyn’s weekly Artists & Fleas market from 12-8pm Artisanal “spirited” cookies and seasonal fruit tarts are our specialties
Follow us on Facebook for continuous Holiday updates facebook.com/BrownBagBakery.BBB
Let us cater your party Contact us for more information liz@brownbagbakerynyc.com
The Customer: Robert Pistor «What brings you here? I just stopped in. «What were you thinking about before we interrupted you? Should I buy this album because of the cover? (Ultimately he bought it.)
Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
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NY ChiliFest 2011 At Chelsea Market Monday, January 30
Michelle Solan, Alison Nyman
Milton Carter, Chris Young of Commodore
Lisa Atkins, Matt Miller
Yesenia Santibanero of Cari単o
Justin Phillips, Erica Pietricola of Beer Table
photographS by john suscovich... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
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Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
A Thursday Evening At The Jake Walk February 10 in Carroll Gardens
photographS by andrew st. clair
George and Adam Arslanian
Mariano Ferrario and Nancy Forshaw-Clapp
Lisa Chavez and Lori Lucena
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March, 2011
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Bartender Of The Month
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Kent Lanier of Black Rabbit... Interview by Bec Couche
n a windy day in our favorite borough, Brooklyn Bread editor Bec Couche chats with Kent Lanier, 41, owner and bartender of favorite Greenpoint watering hole Black Rabbit about trivia, Timmy Williams and tattoos of bunnies... Where are you from and how long have you been bartending? I grew up in Louisiana and Texas but I’ve lived in New York for 20 years and I never want to leave. In 1994, I followed my girlfriend to Los Angeles; she was doing some acting down there. I worked at this really horrible BBQ restaurant near the airport waiting tables. One of the bartenders didn’t turn up for his shift and they threw me behind the bar to cover. There was an old book there called Mr Boston: Official Bartender’s and Party Guide and I used it to figure out how to make drinks. I’ve been bartending ever since – and my girlfriend? We’re married now, and we have a two-year-old daughter. When did you decide you wanted your own bar? In 2000, I found I kept looking at my life thinking, “I don’t have any skill sets, but I’m an okay bartender.” Opening a bar seemed like the right thing. We travel to Ireland a lot [Kent’s wife runs a business planning Irish destination weddings] and go to lots of different, great bars there. I started keeping a notebook of all the things I liked. Eventually we opened in 2007 – so it was a long process. What came out of that notebook and into the Black Rabbit? There are lots of things, for example a bar on the Dingle Peninsula in southwest Ireland inspired the red ceilings. It was 200 years old and had these painted slat ceilings. I thought it was a great alternative to the tin ones here – they feel faux to me. The décor is pretty eclectic. There are lights on the booths to indicate, “my glass is empty.” Which bar inspired them? They’re based on a bar called The Crown in Belfast. It’s common there to have booths with doors called snugs. These ones have buttons that once linked to buzzers for service. I couldn’t stomach the buzzers, but I can handle lights. What sort of crowd does the Black Rabbit draw? We’ve got a great crowd. This neighborhood is great because there are so many artists, musician and writers living here. They are not in any way full of themselves – they follow their passions, but they are pragmatic too. I just really like them; it gives me hope for the next generation. They are the kind of kids I would have liked to have grown up with. What’s the most loyal thing a regular has done for the bar, other than drink there? We have a couple loyal customers who have a tat-
The bar is named after Kent’s great-grandfather – his portrait hangs in the background. Photograph by Allen Ying
too of our logo. We were having a conversation with them one night, and I told them they would receive a dollar off every drink for the life of the bar if they did that. They have a lot of tattoos already – but these ones are prominent, on their forearms. It really means a lot to me that they did that. When you love a place so much, and someone does that… well. It brought tears to my eyes. What’s the meaning behind the name of the bar? My mother used to say it was my great-grandfather’s nickname. His real name was Cornelius Harrington. When he was in his 20s, around the early 1900s, he left Ireland to come to this country to work in Montana as a copper miner. He became head of the local Elks chapter and they commissioned an oil painting of him in 1945. It hung over the piano in my house growing up. He was apparently a rogue and a big drinker, but sweet. I love it. I read you have a celebrity endorsement from Janeane Garofalo. Is she still a regular? She’s lived in Los Angeles the last couple of years so we only see her occasionally. She’s really special though, one of the coolest and funniest people you’ll ever meet. Can you tell me about the Black Rabbit quiz night? I hear that sometimes you have famous hosts – is this true? Nerd alert! It was
started about three years ago by VH1 producer Aimee Carlson and Timmy Williams, a really funny comic and member of the sketch group The Whitest Kids You Know. They’ve both since moved to the West Coast but we’ve been lucky to have a succession of entertaining nerds to take over running the quiz. Every Tuesday at 8pm. Win a bar tab – drink lots! Aside from the famous quiz nights, do you do have other forms of entertainment? Drunk people, make-out sessions, and silliness – selling intoxicants makes for an unusual work environment. We’ve also got bingo, speed dating to a Smiths soundtrack and lobster dinners. You can sign up for alerts on our website – blackrabbitbar.com, or follow us on Twitter or Facebook – or you can come say hi. What sort of food do you serve? We serve good, small plates, things like miniature Angus beef cheeseburgers, bratwurst from Schaller and Weber (a German butcher on the Upper East Side), Welsh rarebit fondue, a smoked trout plate from Acme and a Brooklyn Brine pickle plate. What’s your favorite cocktail to make at the moment? We call it a shim-sham, and it’s a tasty mix of gin, fresh-squeezed lime juice, Polish raspberry syrup (which is common in these parts) and Bruce Cost ginger beer.
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March, 2011
A Thursday Evening At Bar Great Harry February 10 in Carroll Gardens, at around 9:30pm
Alex “Evil Kneville” Laviola, Jason Altman
Jen McCulloch, Sioux Nesi
Mark Harris, Colin Ferm, Linda Foster
Mike Haberman and Jorg Stratmann
Bartender Nada D’Aquino
Dave Bassiri, Hafez the Dog, Karen Propp
photographS by andrew st. clair... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
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La Vida Locavore
A class at Ger-Nis shows how flavorful locally sourced dishes can be – even with just four ingredients... by Bec Couche
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Eat owner/chef Jordan Colon demonstrates to Will Burghes, Whitney Smith and Sarah Poleshuck. Photograph by John Suscovich
ne icy evening in unsnowplowed Gowanus, nine women and one man gathered in the pretty Ger-Nis Culinary Center to get in on the locavore trend and improve their culinary smarts. Some felt more comfortable in the supplied floral Anthropologie aprons than others, but all were united by one common goal: to garner cooking and local eating skills from Jordan Colon, locavore food enthusiast and chef at Greenpoint’s Eat restaurant. The locavore food movement is all about using locally farmed sustainable organic food, and it’s a big deal, especially in Brooklyn. Eat is a leader in the trend, and Jordan began the three-hour hands-on cooking session by explaining the restaurant’s philosophy. When Jordan started in the restaurant business, he wasn’t serving exclusively organic, locally supplied produce – he sourced his ingredients from a standard restaurant supplier. Slowly, through trial, error and education, he found eating seasonal and local food to be fresher, tastier, and more environmentally sound. He eventually decided that all the body’s food needs can be sourced from the region in which it lives, the essence of the locavore ideal. This means living without imported ingredients like coffee, olive oil, sugar, and spices. I’m interested, but not totally sold. How-
ever, replacing these favorites with readily available herbal teas, sunflower and butternut squash seed oil, maple syrup and honey does sound like a delicious alternative. The main principle is simplicity. “The less ingredients and cooking tools you have in the kitchen the better. With less stuff around you will have more clarity in your daily cooking – simple is best,” Colon advised. The evening cooking agenda featured a sourdough focaccia, baked polenta with leeks and squash, pickled beets, roasted cabbage and celery root, and honey and wine cake. There was no meat, and no more than four ingredients for each recipe. I was a little nervous to see that my favorite accompaniment for vegetarian recipes, cheese, was not one of them. Jordan delegated the peeling, chopping and de-seeding of the ingredients among the students while he made the dough for the focaccia. He also used a natural “mother starter” in lieu of commercially available yeast. This organic process involves saving pieces of dough from previous mixes, drying them, and then activating them with sugar and water, the same way you would with packaged yeast. As a gift, we would all be given a “mother starter” to create our own bread at home. Jordan prefers to feel his way through recipes rather than follow exact measurements, adding more organic stone flour as needed to
create the ideal consistency – not too sticky, not too dry – and prefers not to add oil to his food while cooking. After covering the focaccia with water-caramelized onions and placing it in the oven, he quickly assembled the polenta and roasted vegetables. At the same time he organized the pickled beets and the cake. He added and omitted ingredients depending on how the mixtures looked or felt and rather than chaos, the absence of scales and the freedom to be creative made the whole process simple. And yet: no meat, no dairy (read: cheese!), and hardly any oil – how would it taste? The answer? Great. Eating locally farmed food, prepared with no fuss, is a refreshing dining delight. The room was silenced, save for the sound of beet-stained hands piling small mountains of creamy organic polenta and roasted cabbage between layers of ovenhot focaccia. As the evening came to a close we handed over our aprons and left with our cloth-covered take-home bread starters and a new perspective on eating local. I was sold on the taste benefits of locally sourced food, but on my walk to the 4th Avenue subway I struggled to suppress the thought that some grated (imported) Parmesan cheese would have really taken it to the next level. Ger-nis Culinary and Herb Center, 540 President Street Suite 2E, 347-422-0337, culinaryherbcenter. ger-nis.com.
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March, 2011
Cooking And Eating Local With Jordan Colon Of Eat Thursday, January 27 at Ger-Nis Culinary and Herb Center
Susan Swiat, Kristin Swiat
Linsay Bwerstein, Amanda Marcote
Will Burghes, Whitney Smith
Meg Frost, Sarah Poleshuck
Whitney Richardson of Ger-Nis
Star Davis
photographS by john suscovich... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
blanc&ROUGE “Excellent, wide-ranging selection, high end to low.” – New York Times
Organic and biodynamic selections Wine tastings every Wednesday Free delivery with no minimum purchase within DUMBO and Brooklyn Heights. Delivery elsewhere in Brooklyn and Manhattan is free for orders over $200 81 Washington Street, DUMBO 718-858-9463 Visit our online store at brwines.com
March, 2011
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Brooklyn Bread
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March, 2011
A Thursday Evening At The Jake Walk February 10 in Carroll Gardens, at around 8:45pm
Ed Nacional and Erika Gabl
JT Lupfer, Erica Tso, Drew Whitcup, Mike Haidas
Jonathan Hecht and Jessica Dierauer
Megan Cramer and Kate Cusack
Kelly Gillespie and Blake Lawrence
Bartender Eddie P. and waitress Kate Sims
photographS by andrew st. clair... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072
Brooklyn Bread
March, 2011
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2011 Rate Card Every month, 7,000 copies of hot and tasty Brooklyn Bread are delivered to 400 selected food and drink establishments in the wonderful borough of Brooklyn. {Visit BrooklynBreadPress.com for the full list}
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The “I Dig You, Let’s See Where This Goes” Rate
(at least four issues) You save: 10%
The “Let’s Take This To The Next Level” Rate
(at least eight issues) You save: 20%
Full Page
$200
$180 ..................$160
Half Page
$130
$117...................$104
Quarter Page
$80
$72
....$64
Rates are per issue and include ad design. ad specifications Full Page 6.8” wide x 9.2” tall Half Page 3.3” wide x 9.2” tall or 6.8 x 4.5 Quarter Page 3.3” wide x 4.5” tall
to place an ad in brooklyn bread, contact: (917) 740-1072
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Michters_Real_Rye_:Michters Real Rye Tasting Panel Ad 11/19/10 1:07 PM Page 1
Limited Production
Real Rye MICHTER’S AMERICAN WHISKEY CO. H BARDSTOWN, KENTUCKY