Bustle & Sew Magazine January 2020 Sampler

Learning more about Crewel Embroidery The Garden in Winter: Feeding the Birds Tastes of the Season: Vegetarian dishes for January The Beach in Winter Plus: January Almanac, Poetry Corner, Lovely Ideas, Thimbles and Fabric and more 1

A Bustle & Sew Publication Copyright Š Bustle & Sew Limited 2019 The right of Helen Challenor to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form, or by any means, without the prior written permission of the author, nor be otherwise circulated in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser.

Every effort has been made to ensure that all the information in this book is accurate. However, due to differing conditions, tools and individual skills, the publisher cannot be responsible for any injuries, losses and other damages that may result from the use of the information in this book.

First published 2019 by: Bustle & Sew Station House West Cranmore Shepton Mallet BA4 4QP www.bustleandsew.com

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Welcome to the January Magazine Hello everyone!

And here we are at the beginning of not just a new year, but a new decade too. Christmas is over and January can feel rather a spartan sort of month as we seek to recover both our bank balances and our waistlines over the weeks to come. This is especially important for me in 2020 as I will be getting married in April - the ultimate incentive to eat healthily - beginning with some of the vegetarian recipes in our Tastes of the Season feature this month.

Athough the skies outside are grey and the weather can often be inclement, this to me is simply the perfect excuse to spend as much time as possible snuggled up by the fire with my sewing and a mug of something warm, though I do venture outside daily to take my two furry friends for a run.

I do hope you’ll enjoy this month’s issue - we seem to have packed more between the covers than ever so there’s plenty to keep you occupied during the long dark evenings. Remember though, the days are growing longer now and spring is around the corner!

Happy stitching!

Helen xx

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Between this month’s covers …

Tips for Stitchers

Page 4

Tips for Successful Satin Stitch

Page 41

January Almanac

Page 5

Tastes of the Season: January

Page 43

Winter Flowering Hyacinths

Page 7

Winter’s Comfort Hoop

Page 51

Lovely Idea: PomPom Mouse

Page 9

Lovely Idea: Sewing Room Printables

Page 55

Chinoiserie Parrots Hoop

Page 10

Caring for your Sewing Machine

Page 56

Collecting Fabric

Page 13

A Little Look at Linen

Page 57

Farewell Christmas

Page 16

Nature Notes

Page 59

Cotton Wool Balls Storage Jar

Page 18

The Beach in Winter

Page 60

A (very) Little Guide to Buttons

Page 21

Super Spruce

Page 61

The Year in a Poem

Page 22

Poetry Corner

Page 62

Nature Notes

Page 24

Applique Dog Zipper Pouches

Page 63

A Little History of White Work

Page 25

Indoor Plant Care

Page 67

Feed the Birds

Page 28

Embroidery Stitch Guide

Page 68

Cosy Owl Hot Water Bottle Cover

Page 29

In the Kitchen: Conversion Tables

Page 69

By Candle Light

Page 31

Templates

Page 70

A Winter Garden

Page 32

Investigating Crewel

Page 33

Thimbles: Love or hate Them?

Page 36

A (very) Little Guide to Fabric

Page 37

North Wind Hoop

Page 38

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January Although the shortest day is past and gone, January is a dark month here in northern Europe, the nights are still long and on dull overcast days it often feels as though there is precious little daylight to enjoy at all. Once the festive season is over, it’s time for us all to return to work - sadly the days when the festivities lasted for the full twelve days of Christmas are long behind us now. The cheerful seasonal envelopes dropping on our doormat bringing flocks of robins, snowmen and reindeer have been replaced by those plain versions with windows containing bills, offers of life insurance and other such delights, then the beginning of January can seem a little flat even depressing. The days are still short, the weather is at its worst and, with no holidays to look forward to in the near future, sometimes it can feel as though winter will never end. But don’t despair. Although January brings frosts, sometimes snow, trees are bare and everywhere seems on

first inspection quite lifeless, in fact the rhythm of life has simply slowed, not stopped altogether.

Many animals are hibernating and

“St Agnes’ Eve… Ah, bitter chill it was!

The owl, for all his feathers, was a-cold; The hare limp’d trembling through the frozen grass, And silent was the flock in woolly fold..”

St Agnes day falls on 21 January - she is the patron saint of girls, couples and purity. migratory birds have headed south for warmer climes, so fewer birds will be seen in the fields and hedgerows.

In many places

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farmers move cattle and other stock indoors to over-winter in barns.

Ploughing the fields in preparation for sewing is the first task of the agricultural year. The first Monday after Epiphany (6 January) is known as Plough Monday, this was formerly the day that farmhands returned to work after their Christmas holiday - not that they actually did much work on this day as it was marked by various ceremonies and usually ended in general merrymaking. The plough would have been blessed at the church and then paraded around the parish by the farm labourers collecting money from householders along the way.

Rather than stay indoors all day in January, tempting though this may seem, going for a long winter’s walk can be very enjoyable.

Remember the old saying “there’s no such thing as bad weather just the wrong clothing!” I love to head

out into the woods with the dogsin January as there’s so much to see now the trees are bare. There are generally four layers of habitat in our English woods - a ground layer of small plants such as mosses; a field layer of flowers and ferns; the undergrowth of hazel, hawthorn (and brambles and nettles in the summer months!) and finally the tree layer or canopy.

Many insects will be hiding or hibernating in the leaf mould or tree bark and you may be lucky and spot various species of birds hunting for them, including woodpeckers, wrens, robins and blackbirds.

The winter months are also a good time to see owls in daylight as the shortage of food forces them to hunt for many more hours than in the summer months.

On 18 January 1882, Alan Alexander Milne was born in London. After graduating from Cambridge University he worked as assistant editor of Punch Magazine and wrote a number of successful light comedies. He is remembered, however, for the poems and stories he wrote for his young son, Christopher Robin in the 1920’s, creating characters based on the youngster’s soft toys that would go on to win the hearts of generations of children across the world. Winnie-the-Pooh and

his friends Eeyore the donkey, Piglet, Kanga, Roo, Rabbit, Owl and Tigger went on to star in a number of Disney films but for many people the “real” characters are those drawn by EH Shephard for AA Milne’s four original books.

“So the next time he dropped one big one and one little one, and the big one came out first, which was what he had said it would do, and the little one came out last, which was what he had said it would do, so he had won twice…. And that was the beginning of the game called Poohsticks, which Pooh invented, and which he and his friends used to play on the edge of the Forest.”

On this day each year, many fans celebrate AA Milne’s birthday with appropriate songs and games and in particular Pooh Sticks, which involves dropping sticks from the upstream side of a bridge, then running to the upstream side to see whose stick emerges first.

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January 25th brings another famous birthday - that of Robert Burns (1759-96) - celebrated by people of Scottish descent all over the world. The main attraction of Burns Night is a traditional Burns Supper of haggis (made from the heart, lungs and liver of a sheep chopped p with suet, onions and oatmeal traditionally boiled in a sheep’s stomach-bag), tatties and neeps (boiled potatoes and swedes). The meal begins with the “Selkirk Grace” “Some hae meat and canna eat, And some wad eat that want it; But we hae meat and we can eat, And sae the Lord be thankit.”

The company then stand to receive the haggis as it’s ceremoniously piped into the room and set down in front of the chief guest.

Away from the haggis, by this time of the month, catkins will already be appearing on hazel bushes, turning from green to yellow as they mature. Shoots of wild garlic will be sprouting up through the leaf mould, recognisable by their pungent smell if you crush them between your fingers. As our winters seem to be growing milder, if you’re in the south of the country you may even discover celandines and primroses in flower. In the garden, the first spring bulbs will be emerging and the Christmas rose will be in flower.

In January we’re loving fragrant winter flowering Hyacinths

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Collecting Fabric …..

I’ve been busy over the past few days tidying up my work room and sorting out my fabric collection … and while I was folding and pressing each piece to create nice tidy stacks on my cupboard shelves, I started to think about the variety of fabrics I have acquired and where I found them ….

One of my favourite sewing techniques is freestyle machine embroidery. It’s a great way to obtain professional-looking results in a short space of time - and is deceptively easy to master. But you do need a good variety of fabrics as the right choices can make or spoil your project. Luckily for us, fabric is very versatile and it’s possible to build an interested and varied fabric stash at very little cost - provided we remember to keep our eyes open and search for fabrics in all kinds of places.

Free style projects

There is a bewilderingly large variety of fabrics available to the machine stitcher.

Compare for example, a light-weight patterned cotton used for a summer dress, the thick tweed of a winter coat or the soft pile of a silky velvet fabric used for luxurious cushions piled on a favourite armchair.

Notice how people use fabrics both in their choice of clothing and in their homes. It’s interesting to consider the ways in which different fabrics have been used and whether you like them or not.

Look at the scale of the pattern - large or small? Is the colour appealing or is it too bright or too mute. Consider texture too fabric an be soft and warm, cold and shiny or even rough and hairy!

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Farewell Christmas 9

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A (very) Little Guide to Buttons Buttons come in a huge variety of shapes, sizes and materials - though when it comes down to basics there are really only two different types, flat (those with holes that you sew through) and shank. You can attach buttons by hand or use a special button foot on your sewing machine that has a small U-shaped base covered in a rubber material - but do be sure to refer to your sewing machine manual before attempting this.

You should always choose a button with a depth and diameter that suits your buttonhole.

If anything it should be quite a snug fit when passing through the buttonhole as these do tend to stretch and give with use and time.

When you’re sewing on buttons by hand it’s best to double your thread to make it stronger.

When sewing on flat buttons that are going to be used as a fastening then it’s good practice to create a thread shank which will allow a bit of space between the button and the fabric

that will make it lie better. To make a shank push a cocktail stick between your button and the fabric and stitch the button on loosely a few times. Then remove the stick and wrap your thread round and round the stitched threads beneath the button to create a shank, securing firmly on the back to finish.

Shank buttons have a hole or loop at the back that you stitch through to attach the button to the fabric. This makes them great for thicker fabrics and outerwear.

If, in spite of the variety available, you can’t find exactly the right button to suit your project then you might like to try covering your own.

These buttons come ready to be covered by placing a circle of fabric (especially pretty if enhanced by a tiny embroidered motif) on the front of the button and snapping the back into place using the special tool provided. This is a great idea for soft furnishings and for creating a co-ordinated finish.

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A Little History of White Work 12

WWW means Crewel Embroidery!! (not the worldwide web, but working with wool!)

T

his month’s magazine includes not worked in worsted woollen thread nearly one, but two patterns working with a thousand years ago - and still in a crewel wool. This isn’t a fibre that remarkably good state of preservation.

I’ve used very much in the recent past, but having re-discovered the wide range of “Here followeth certaine patterns of colours available and how easy and fun cut workes, also sundry sorts of spots, as crewel wool is to work with, I think I’ll be Flowers, Birds and Fishes etc, and will including a lot more crewel work in future fitly serve to be wrought, some with issues. gould, some with silke, and some with I thought it would be fun to take a look crewell, or otherwise at your pleasure” back at crewel work, that is to say R Schorleyker 1624 embroidery worked with wool, which has been stitched since earliest times.

Whether the yearn was twisted in with the The work is rather like a modern day film fingers, stitched with a needle made of strip or cartoon, illustrating the Norman bone, ivory, silver or later of steel, this soft, Conquest of England in 1066 together flexible wool thread, capable of holding with the events that led up to it. It is dye in beautiful jewel-like glowing colours, stitched in earth browns, reds, indigos and has retained its popularity throughout the golds on natural linen. The loom on which ages. the background linen was woven was only 20” wide, but the whole panel measures The word “crewel” - which describes the more than 230 feet in length. wool, was probably derived from the Anglo-Saxon word “cleow” which later became “clew” meaning a ball of thread.

Sadly, due to their perishable nature, very few early wool embroideries survive. One rarity was found in a tomb in Egypt - a wall hanging worked with wool, rather than costly gold, silk and jewels - which may well have been the reason it escaped destruction.

This may also have been the case with the Bayeaux tapestry - sadly misnamed as it’s really a wonderful example of embroidery

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Bayeux Tapestry detail: laid work

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Some Tips for Successful Satin Stitch Satin stitch sems to be a very popular stitch at the moment, featuring in lots of the lovely designs I've been seeing lately.

You might think that satin stitch is an incredibly easy stitch to sew - after all you just go in and out, out and in, from one side of the shape to another - and in one sense you'd be absolutely right. But satin stitch is in fact rather like the English language According to my Russian friend Elona who was once heard to remark ... "English is a very easy language to pick up the basics,

but a very difficult language to speak well."

tangles and is horrible to work with.

I think the same is probably true of satin stitch, so I thought I'd share a few of my tips with you - though I am by no means suggesting I'm an expert, or that this is a fully inclusive list - these are just hints that my mum and grandma passed onto me.

2. I usually like to work with two strands, and personally would be unlikely to use more than three for a nice smooth stitch but that really is a matter of choice. No matter how many strands you use, when you're separating them from the skein, do so one strand at a time and then line them up together to thread your needle, making sure they're not twisted in any way.

I hav

1. Use a good quality floss. You won't get good results with any kind of stitch if you're using cheap floss that breaks and

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Tastes of the Season: January

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Tastes of the Season: Sweet Clementines Clementines are at their sweetest, juiciest best at this time of year and are the perfect antidote to those grey winter day blues. Simply peel and enjoy, add the freshly squeezed juice to a fruit salad or flavour your baking with the zest orange drizzle cake anyone? If you’d like to try something a little special then you could try caramelising them, which is easier than you might think. Peel a dozen clementines, remove any loose pith and finely shred their peel. Heat 300g granulated sugar gently in a heavy bottomed pan until the sugar darkens to a caramel colour. Stir in 200ml of water and, if liked, a generous measure of Cointreau or other orange liquor. Add the shredded peel and simmer gently for an hour. Add the clementines and poach for a few minutes, then transfer to a bowl, pour over the syrup and chill.

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Birds at Winter Nightfall Around the house the flakes fly faster, And all the berries now are gone From holly and cotoneaster Around the house. The flakes fly! - faster Shutting indoors that crumb-outcaster We used to see upon the lawn Around the house. The flakes fly faster, And all the berries now are gone!

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