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A Bustle & Sew Publication Copyright © Bustle & Sew Limited 2021 The right of Helen Grimes to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form, or by any means, without the prior written permission of the author, nor be otherwise circulated in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser. Every effort has been made to ensure that all the information in this book is accurate. However, due to differing conditions, tools and individual skills, the publisher cannot be responsible for any injuries, losses and other damages that may result from the use of the information in this book.
First published 2021 by: Bustle & Sew Station House West Cranmore Shepton Mallet BA4 4QP www.bustleandsew.com
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Welcome to the June Magazine Hello everyone! And welcome to the first issue of summer! Outside my window the birds are singing - the skylarks in particular are going a bit mad over the field next to our house - making up for all those cold and rainy days perhaps when it was far too windy for them to take to the skies. My vegetables are growing away now, and Daisy is sunning herself in the first warm sunshine of the year, though my guess is that she’ll soon become far too hot and take her round furry body off to a shady corner of the garden. This month’s magazine reflects the delights of summer - we have strawberries, roses, flowers and much more besides as well as two very talented makers whom I hope you’ll enjoy meeting. The next issue will be published on Thursday 24 June, so until then I hope you have a lovely month, with lots of time for stitching in the garden! Very best wishes
Helen xx
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Between this month’s covers … June Almanac
Page 5
Piggle Wiggle Head
Page 49
Floral Flourish Hoops
Page 7
Changing your Sewing Machine Needle
Page 51
Choosing the right Sewing Thread
Page 11
Meet the Maker: Jen Wexler
Page 52
Meet the Maker: Susie Sage
Page 13
Loving your Linens
Page 54
Poetry Corner
Page 57
Lovely Idea: Vintage Wallpaper Envelopes Page 15 Henny Penny and Friends
Page 16
A Midsummer Night’s Hoop
Page 58
Cream Teas and Sunny Days
Page 20
Strawberry Summer
Page 65
June Printables
Page 23
Embroidery Stitch Guide
Page 66
Grow your own Edible Flowers
Page 25
In the Kitchen: Conversion Tables
Page 67
Floral Bee Cushion
Page 26
Templates
Page 68
Sumer is icumen in
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Summer Rose Napkins
Page 41
A (very) Little Look at Roses
Page 43
Simple Idea: Pressed Flower Journal
Page 45
A (very) Little Look at Embroidering Text
Page 46
Arachne’s Web
Page 48
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Choosing the right sewing thread for your project You should select the thread to use according to the weight and fibre content of your fabric. If you’re using a stretch fabric, such as jersey, you’ll need a thread with some “give” so choose a polyester thread as if you use a cotton thread your stitches may break. For a special project you might consider using silk thread, which has a lustrous appearance and makes beautifully smooth stitches. Heavy fabrics such as denim and leather unsurprisingly require extra strong thread. There is a huge variety of types and colours of thread available and so you shouldn’t have too much trouble finding the perfect choice for your project.
different types wear the needle differently). Then experiment with different tension and pressure settings until you’re happy with the result. Threads are usually two or three ply - this means that either two or three single strands are twisted together to form a single thread. is the most widely-used and versatile type of thread. It is fine, but very strong, and is suitable for sewing both natural and synthetic fabrics of all kinds. It has enough “give” to sew both knitted and stretch woven fabrics too. Polyester thread is available in literally hundreds of colours and is sold on spools in lengths ranging from 100 to 1,000 metres (1,094 yards).
As a general guide, choose thread that is one shade darker than your fabric. Most types of thread will be suitable for your sewing machine, it’s just a matter of getting the thread tension and machine-foot pressure right, as well as using the correct needle for your fabric. When you try out a new thread always insert a new needle (thread wears a groove in the needle and
is strong and lustrous but, unlike polyester thread, doesn’t stretch at all. It’s suitable for sewing cotton, linen and other natural fabrics that have only a limited amount of “give.” It is given its strength and silky appearance through the process of
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mercerizing. This is when the thread is immersed in a solution of caustic soda and then stretched in hot water. Like polyester thread, cotton is available in hundreds of colours and is sold in lengths of up to 500 m (547 yards). is a very smooth and strong thread that stretches well and produces a very high-quality finish. It is expensive though, so is perhaps best saved for special projects. It is also quite thick, so be sure to test it on a sample of your fabric before proceeding. Silk thread is often used for decorative effects such as hand and machine embroidery and top-stitching.
is very thick, with a polyester core for extra strength and a cotton covering for easier sewing. It’s good for heavy fabrics, such as canvas, denim and leather and is also excellent for decorative topstitching, making buttonholes and sewing on buttons - as well as whiskers for all kinds of animal softies! You’ll probably only find a limited colour range in this type of thread. In spite of its name, is actually quite a strong thread. Unlike mercerized cotton it has a matt finish and is used mainly for sewing linens and household cotton items such as sheets and pillowcases. Usually available in black and white only.
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” talks to us about her love of needle felting, where she finds her inspiration and how she started her business, Susie is a needle felting artist based in Bath. She launched her business back in 2015, creating 47 incredible metre-high needle felted foxes for Oddbins Christmas campaign. Since then, her business has gone from strength to strength and we can totally see why - her creations are just beautiful!
I worked with BBC News and Current Affairs as part of their Graphic Design team in London for many years until I suffered a serious stroke and decided I need to find a new way to work. I took time out to raise my two children but always knew I wanted to start my own business. It wasn’t until I took up needle felting as a hobby when my kids were young that I found my passion for sculpting with wool and making needle felted animals. Ayo Akintola, MD Oddbins approached me in April 2015 and 7
asked if I would take on a commission to make 47 x 1 metre tall needle felted foxes to star in Oddbins Christmas store windows from Aberdeen to London. I didn’t know if it was even possible to needle felt to this large scale but accepted the mammoth challenge and created a prototype fox. The Oddbins #What the Fox campaign that followed was a great success also raising money for charities through a celebrity auction of the foxes with stars including Olivia Colman and Greta Scacchi. It was a collaborative project that I am very proud of. Wild & Wool was born and I haven’t looked back! ’
I knew running my own business would be all consuming but I didn’t realise that there would be no pause button on weekends, evenings or even on holiday. I love being my own boss but you never switch off.
I am inspired every day by nature and our diverse British wildlife. I grew up on the island of Islay in Scotland and my closest neighbours were sheep and red deer. I drew the animals I saw every day and this love and fascination with the natural world still fuels my passion for making now. I walk every day with my two dogs Piper and Millie and my pockets are constantly stuffed with nature finds. I love to photograph wild flowers, birds and animals as reference for the things I create.
Everything I make involves a creature of some kind. I may be inspired by perhaps a bee buzzing up inside a foxglove for instance and then I set about working out how to make it. I never sketch what I make but prefer to work from photographs as reference. My wool sculptures
are not about realism as such but have a nod to nature in a more whimsical snd quirky way. I aim to engage and make people smile with my pieces. I always leave the heads and faces to last as that is the best bit, when the character of the creature finally appears. The whole process is very organic which is part of the magic and interest for me. The characters develop their own personality as I work on them and they evolve. This process keeps if fresh as I strive to make everything I create unique and tell its own little story.
introduction to this art form. Once you have a bit of practise under your belt you can let your imagination run riot!
Needle felting in essence is quite simple. It is sculptural in feel and involves repeatedly prodding wool tops with very sharp barbed needles which knit the wool fibres together to make a solid object. If you want to try needle felting for the first time you’ll need a foam pad, felting needles (sizes 36 and 38 are best) and some wool tops. There are lots of great kits available now which are a good
I think doing something you have a passion for is the most important thing in starting your own business and be prepared to put in the hours.
’ My favourite wool sculpture is always the last thing I make! I get bored easily so each piece I make is different and I love a new challenge. If pushed though ... I do have a real soft spot for creating badger characters.
Do be sure to pop over to Susie’s Website to see all of her gorgeous creations. You can also find her on Instagram too!
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Grow your own : Edible Flowers Adding the right petals to a dish won’t just make your food look beautiful - it will enhance the flavours too. Growing your own edible flowers is a great way to do this as you can be confident of the species, be certain that they haven’t been sprayed with pesticides and you can pick them the morning before you want to use them ensuring the colours are at their most vibrant and the flavour is freshest.
Don’t forget about the flowers in your vegetable plot too. The big blowsy yellow blooms of courgettes and squash plants are delicious when stuffed with ricotta cheese and deep-fried in a tempura batter. Pick a few flowers from peas and runner bean plants (don’t take them all or you won’t get any pods later in the season!) and you will enjoy a delicate pea or bean flavour which works especially well when stirred through grains such as rice and couscous.
If you take a look around your garden you may be surprised to find that you already have a good number of edible flowers to hand. Make the most of the scented petals of roses and lavender in jellies, icing and cakes, whilst bright red, yellow and orange nasturtiums add a peppery tang to salads and also work well as a garnish for steak. Violas and pansies are popular as decorations for cakes and puddings, especially when crystallised in sugar, but their rather lettuce-y taste works well in salads as well.
During warmer months the herbs in your patch may begin to flower. Although this takes energy away from their leaves, it will provide you with some lovely edible flowers. The flowers of many annual herb, such as basil, dill and coriander, are a less intense version of the plants’ leaves. Sprinkle them into salads, or try freezing them into ice cubes for a botanical boost to your gin and tonic. Borage flowers taste surprisingly of cucumber, so are ideal in salads, whilst chives purple flowers have a mild onion flavour that works well with fish. 11
Sumer is icumen in…
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“ One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.” Virginia Woolf
Stuffed Tomatoes Ingredients
● Salt & pepper
Method ● 1 onion
● Preheat oven to 180C.
● 3 cloves garlic
● Peel and chop the onion, and peel and crush the garlic. Roughly chop the olives. Slice the tops off the tomatoes and set aside for later. Scoop out the flesh and reserve this too. Chop the fresh parsley.
● Handful pitted black olives ● 1 tablespoon olive oil ● Few sprigs fresh parsley ● 70g basmati rice ● 60ml dry white wine ● 125ml vegetable stock
● Heat the oil in a large saucepan and gently fry the onion and garlic until soft. Stir in the reserved tomato flesh, olives and parsley. Heat through, then stir in the rice, wine and stock. Bring to the boil, reduce to a simmer and cook, covered, for 15 minutes. Season to taste. ● Spoon the filling carefully into the tomatoes and put them in a greased shallow baking dish. Replace the tomato tops and bake for 30 minutes, until the rice is tender and the tomatoes are soft.
The Legend of Arachne
“Arachne first invented working with the needle, which this mayd of Lydia learned from the spiders, taking her first samplers and patterns from them in imitation” Edward Topsel, History of Fourfooted Beasts and Serpents, 1608
According to Greek mythology, Arachne was a beautiful, young and talented maiden, who was so proud of her skill that she claimed she could spin and weave better than anybody else - even the goddess Athene. When the goddess visited her, disguised as an elderly woman, Arachne unknowingly challenged her to a duel at tapestry weaving - which of course the goddess won. Arachne, in despair, hanged herself and Athene, as a warning to all conceited mortals, quickly changed her into a spider so she could spend eternity practising her stitches. 15
Changing your Sewing Machine Needle It’s important to change your sewing machine needle regularly as needles quickly become blunt, or even slightly bent which can cause real problems when stitching. In fact almost the first thing I do when I’m experiencing problems with my machine is to change the needle. This can be a little fiddly, but isn’t hard to accomplish with a little practice ….
there’s no danger of inserting it the wrong way round. Generally the flat surface is towards the back of the machine, but do check your manual if you’re in any doubt. ● Holding the needle in position tighten the screw by hand, then finish with a couple of turns with the screwdriver. It’s important the screw is tight to stop the needle becoming loose due to the vibration and movement of the machine as you stitch. A needle that becomes loose will wobble about and bend or break, in the worst case damaging the throat plate and bobbin case.
● Place a small scrap of fabric under the presser foot, then using the screwdriver that came with your sewing machine loosen the screw holding the needle in place by turning it anti-clockwise. The needle will just drop out of the holder and the fabric will prevent it from dropping through to the bobbin.
● If your needle does break when you’re stitching then this might be because it’s the wrong size (generally too small) for the materials you’re using. Try a size up and see if that’s any better.
● Choose the right needle for the project you’re working on and insert as far as possible into the holder. Machine needles have a flat back so 16
A Midsummer Night’s Dream I know a bank where the wild thyme blows, Where oxlips and the nodding violet grows, Quite over-canopied with luscious woodbine, With sweet musk-roses and with eglantine: There sleeps Titania sometime of the night, Lull’d in these flowers with dances and delight;
Oberon’s monologue from Act 2, Scene 1 William Shakespeare
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