Bustle & Sew Magazine Issue 150 Sampler

A Bustle & Sew Publication

Copyright © Bustle & Sew Limited 2023

The right of Helen Grimes to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form, or by any means, without the prior written permission of the author, nor be otherwise circulated in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser.

Every effort has been made to ensure that all the information in this book is accurate. However, due to differing conditions, tools and individual skills, the publisher cannot be responsible for any injuries, losses and other damages that may result from the use of the information in this book.

First published 2023 by: Bustle & Sew Station House West Cranmore Shepton Mallet BA4 4QP www.bustleandsew.com

Betweenthismonth’scovers…

July Almanac Page 5

The Sound of Silence Page 7

Ahoy There! Sailor Bear Hoop Page 8

In the Swim! Swimwear through the Years Page 12

The Beach in Summer Page 17

Ice Cream Beach Bag Page 19

Blooming Lovely: Rosebay Willowherb Page 23

Rags to Riches: Chindi Rugs Page 24

Your Sewing Machine Page 27

Lovely Idea: Tilda Dolls Page 30

Seagulls in Flight Hoop Page 31

The Vegetable Garden: Looking Ahead Page 34

Country Notes: Pause for Perfection Page 35

Henrietta Chicken Doorstop Page 40

Summer in the Kitchen Page 43

Pea Pod Oven Mitt Page 57

The month of July in 1808 was so hot that reported that at least 7 people died from the extreme temperatures. That heat wave finally came to an end on 15 July with such ferocious thunderstorms that one of the pinnacles of Gloucester Cathedral was destroyed and violent hailstorms devastated the south west of England with jagged fragments of ice up to 12” long falling from the sky. Though we hope not to experience quite such extreme weather this month (although with the effects of climate change almost anything seems possible), nonetheless July is

the month when, here in England, we watch the sky for rain and thunderstorms, for although on average this is the warmest month of the year, it can also be a rather wet one.

St Swithin’s Day falls on the fifteenth and I’m certain that everyone knows the folklore of this day, which falls on the fifteenth of the month - and in particular that it never ever comes true! If it rains on that day then we’re not going

until the cathedral was consecrated a century after his death, he was buried outside the church and resented the rain falling on his grave. His time of neglect, however, came to an end when his bones were moved to a shrine inside the newly consecrated cathedral and so now we only have to put up with forty days of his annoyance!

When the sun does shine though, it can be very hot and on a country walk you may be joined by a most annoying plant that insists on hitching a lift on your clothinggoosegrass. With its hairy stems and sticky leaves that cling to clothing and to animal fur too, it’s trying to disperse its seeds. It’s called goosegrass because geese (and my chickens too!) love eating it. It used to be fed to goslings to fatten them up and buildup their immunity to disease.

to experience a forty day deluge and if it’s sunny then we are by no means guaranteed a warm dry summer. But there is a small kernel of truth that may have inspired the legend, which is that summer weather patterns established by mid-July will often persist well into August.

St Swithin was actually a ninth century bishop of Winchester and one version of his legend says that

Trees now take on a deep green colour as chlorophyll levels change in their leaves whilst in towns the common lime tree becomes festooned with dropping heads of blossom. Its sweet perfume is designed to attract the bees and hoverflies needed for pollination and so intoxicating is its nectar that bumblebees can fall helpless to the ground. Later in the season these limes become infested with aphids which exude a mist of sticky honeydew onto cars parked beneath.

“Ihearthunder, Ihearthunder

Harkdon’tyou?

Harkdon’tyou?

Pitterpatterraindrops

Pitterpatterraindrops

I’mwetthrough, Soareyou.”

IntheSwim… A(very)littlehistory ofwater-wear

1930s bathing fashions

SummerontheBeach

Standing on the shoreline, breathing in the pure sea air has the power to reduce stress, improve happiness levels and bring back happy memories of childhood holidays. Sea air is full of negative ions which help the body absorb oxygen, boosting our well-being and promoting deep sleep whilst the rhythmic sound of surf breaking on the beach helps lull our anxious, overactive brains into a deeply relaxed state. In fact, a visit to the beach is good for you!

Beach combing is a lovely way to spend an afternoon, and you may end up with a bucket full of treasures too. Shells, sea glass and even fossils can be found along the coast, whilst rock pooling is a fascinating pastime for adults and children alike. Rock pools form in the intertidal zone - that part of the beach between high and low tides, that’s covered by the sea twice a day. You will also discover sand, mud and areas of rock without pools. It’s a very different world to our own, a stepping stone to the wider ocean.

When you’re exploring rock pools use your hands rather than a net as you’ll cause less damage to the environment and the creatures that live in it. In the UK at least, very few rock pool inhabitants are likely to bite or sting you. Make sure that you’re at the beach at low tide, preferably during spring tides when more rocks are mud are exposed. The ideal time to arrive is about two hours before the tide is fully out. Approach rock pools carefully, avoiding casting your shadow on the water - this will frighten the creatures living there and you’ll be much less likely to spot anything of interest.

Rock pooling is fun and easy for the whole family, but do be aware of the potential dangers. Recently uncovered rocks can be slippery and treacherous, whilst wet seaweed can be as slippery as ice. Rock pools are often deeper than they look. And remember to apply your sun cream in this exposed habitat as the water will reflect the sun back at you. Remember too, to keep an eye on the tide - rock pools are tidal which means that sooner or later the tide will come in and cover them again. Don’t get cut off - rock pooling can be very absorbing.

YourSewingMachine

Filledwithexcitementandenthusiasmforyourlatestpieceofwork,it’seasytoforgetabouttakingcareof youressentialsewingworkhorse-yourmachineisapieceofequipmentthat’softentakenforgrantedeven thoughitcaneasilybethemostexpensiveiteminyourworkspace. Followtheseeasystepstokeepyour machinerunningsmoothlysoit’salwaysreadytotakeonanothernewproject. Andifthingsdogoabit awrycheckoutourhintsandtipstogetyousewingagain.

The simplest and easiest thing you can do to help keep your sewing machine in good shape is to make sure you cover it when it’s not in use. This will stop dust, lint and (especially in my home) pet hair from penetrating into the mechanics of your machine. Most machines come with a cover, though these are usually less than inspiring and it’s fun to make your own to suit your personal tastes.

Ideally you should clean your machine every so often, especially if you’ve been using textured fabrics as the main problem is lint - the short threads that are shed from the fabric you’re working with. Lint can easily build up and will attract dust too, clogging up the workings of your machine so it won’t work as efficiently and may even, if not brushed away regularly, contribute to long term damage.

Along with regularly brushing away any build up of lint, you should also change your needle regularly. It’s a fact that most sewing machine stitching issues are caused by the needle. Continuing with a bent or blunt needle is very likely to result in skipped stitches, broken

thread, or large loops in the stitches. It may also damage your fabric and even your machine. My mum always told me to change my needle after every project - this is a bit excessive I think and I usually aim for every eight hours of sewing. Be sure to choose a needle that’s right for the fabric you’re using. You should also change your needle if you change to a different kind of thread. This is because thread wears a groove in the needle eye and different brands will affect the needle in different ways.

It’s also important to use the bobbin type recommended by your sewing machine manufacturer so that it runs smoothly in the case. Don’t be tempted to wind a new thread onto an already partially filled bobbin as this will create extra thread tails that can jam your machine. Sadly (I say sadly as I really hate winding bobbins), it’s best not to use pre-wound bobbins unless the manufacturer states this is OK. I have been tempted by them, but have never achieved good results.

Ideally, if you use your sewing machine regularly you should have it serviced annually by a qualified technician. He or she will check and adjust the tension and timing as well as professionally cleaning the parts of the machine the user can’t access. Your machine will also be checked for wear and tear and any parts replaced as necessary. This should keep your indispensable asset running smoothly.

Sometimes, in spite of all your care and attention, you will experience problems with your machine. If your machine isn’t working properly, then here’s a look at some of the most common problems and how to fix them ….

Nestoftangledthread

This usually happens when you haven’t threaded your machine properly. Even though the tangled mess is on the lower or bobbin side of your work, don’t assume the problem is with your bobbin. Raise your presser foot and unthread, then rethread the machine paying particular attention to the route the thread should take, using your sewing machine manual as a guide if you’re at all unsure.

Unevenstitching

If your row of stitching has large loops on one side of the work and is too tight on the other then you may think that the thread tension setting on your machine needs altering. You might be right, but before you begin playing around with adjusting the tension setting, take a look at your bobbin as this is more likely to be the cause of the problem. Take the bobbin out of the case and check you’ve inserted it the right way round. This is usually with the thread unwinding in an anticlockwise direction, but do check your manual if you’re at all unsure as it could be different. The bobbin itself might have been unevenly wound or you may not have pulled the thread through the groove in the bobbin case. If you’ve checked the bobbin and this isn’t causing the problem, then try adjusting the tension dial and test stitch on a scrap of the same fabric you’re experiencing problems stitching until the stitches are even on both sides of the fabric.

Skippingstitches

Back to the needle again! The likeliest reason for your machine to skip stitches is that you’re using the wrong needle for the fabric your sewing. Needles come in different weights for different fabric - that’s the easy part - but they also come in different shapes for different fabrics/techniques. Check you’re using the right needle for your project!

Machine needles are classified into three types of point:

● Regular – this is the finest point, for piercing the threads of woven fabrics

● Chisel point – these are for stitching leather

● Ball point – used for knitted or stretchy fabrics. This type of needle reduces cut threads by pushing them out of the way rather than piercing them.

Most major brands of needle are colour coded to show the type of point and they come in sizes 9 (thinnest) to 18 (thickest).

Fabricnotfeedingthroughoris gettingstuck

Depending upon the make and model of your machine both the presser foot and feed dog may have different settings. Without enough pressure on the fabric from the presser foot, won’t be able to work properly. On the other hand, having the presser foot set too low may cause too much pressure or prevent the fabric from feeding through, causing jams. Check that the feed dog is in its raised position when sewing normally (as opposed to freestyle quilting or applique). If the feed dog seems to be jammed, it may be due to lint and debris. You should consult your sewing machine manual before making adjustments or attempting to clear it.

The other cause of this problem is the actual fabric itself. If, for example, your fabric is too heavy for your sewing machine or presser

foot, or you have chosen a fabric that needs a bit more help to move through the sewing machine like oilcloth or fur you are likely to find yourself experiencing this problem.

In this case you can try using a specialist foot or if you’re working with oilcloth then consider sandwiching it between a couple of sheets of tissue paper so the feed dogs don't mark your oilcloth and it will slide through much more easily.

Threadkeepsbreaking

Thread that continually breaks may be an issue with the quality of the thread you’re using or simply that your machine doesn’t “like” that brand of thread. Don’t laugh - it happens - I remember my mum’s machine only worked properly with Sylko thread - neither of us had any idea why, but simply had to go with it!

Alternatively there may be obstructions within the machine. Inexpensive, bargain threads typically shed more lint, contain knots, and break more often than good, quality threads. Lint and knots can obstruct the thread from feeding through the machine.

Also check the path the thread travels through, including the bobbin and needle, is free from burrs, nicks, or any sharp points that may cause a break or snag. If you’re confident then you could try polishing these areas yourself with steel wool or fine grade sandpaper, or if not, then it’s time for a visit to the sewing machine technician. Some fine threads used for embroidery may be more prone to

breaking; it is best to use a specified embroidery needle for these threads.

Bobbinnotwindingevenly

Check you’ve placed the thread correctly around the bobbin winding tension spring. If you think all is in order then it’s worth trying wrapping the thread around the tension spring for a second timethis often does the trick!

Theneedlekeepsfallingout

This is caused by vibration, so check your machine is sitting on a nice firm surface and isn’t wobbling around as you stitch. Alternatively if you’re using a ruffler foot or a walking foot this may cause your needle to drop out as their extra moving parts create a lot more vibration.

Usually it’s fine to tighten the screw that holds the needle in place by hand but if you are experiencing problems then try gently tightening it a little further with the small screw driver which is normally supplied with the sewing machine. If that doesn't solve the problem then it’s likely that there’s an underlying problem either with the needle or the screw.

Thereare10freepatternstochoose fromandthegeniusofthese patternsarethattheyallfitthe samesizeclothes.Thatwayyoucan makealittlewardrobeofoutfits thatcanbemixedandmatched. Thesewouldmakegreatgiftstoo, especiallyasit’stimetostart thinkingaboutChristmascrafting!

Look!

alovelyidea

TenFree TildaFriends Patterns

TheVegetableGarden: LookingAhead

Probablythisisthebusiestmonthoftheyearin thekitchengarden,bothonaccountof everythinggrowingsofast,andbecausemany cropshaveceasedtobeuseful,andmustbe removedandgiveplacetoothers. Wehaveto lookforwardtoalongwinterandspring,when vegetationisstationaryorveryslow;yetatthat timeitisnecessarytohavesuitablecrops;and nowisthetimetopreparethegroundandget themintheirplaces.

Itispropertoobservethatwhererowsof vegetableshavepreviouslygrown,theground isusuallydryandhard. Howevermoistthe seasonhasbeen,itwillalwaysbefound differenttothat18inchesorsooneitherside; itisnot,therefore,advisabletocrop immediatelyoverthesamespot;thedifference willsoonbeobservablebetweentherows plantedexactlywherepeashavegrownand thoseplantedatthedistanceindicated.

Ihavefounditbestnottoplantwintercrops ongroundthathasbeennewlydugor trenched,andneverknewbroccolitodoso wellaswhenplantedonhardgroundthathad notbeendugsinceFebruary;butwhenthe plantshadtakenhold,andbegantogrow,the groundwasforkedoverandadressingof manureworkedin.

The Beeton Book of Garden management, 1862, Samuel Orchart Beeton

Summerin theKitchen….

It’s July and from cottage gardens to country lanes, hedgerows and banks, the bright acid greens of spring have given way to the deep rich hues of summer. Bright flowers nod their heads as busy insects collect nectar and pollinate the plants, leaving setting fruits in their wake.

Though the days are already, almost imperceptibly, shortening, they are warm, even hot and often sultry, heavy with the threat of thunder. The kitchen garden is bountiful and we can gather early crops now - broad beans, peas, courgettes and the earliest tender baby carrots. The hens are laying well and we eat eggs almost every day, though our family are queuing up to take any surplus off our hands - their rich golden yolks are so much nicer and more tasty than shop-bought ones.

It’s too hot to spend very long in the kitchen this month, so our recipes are all easy to prepare. They are light and fresh - but without any compromise in taste! They also feature lovely seasonal fresh

ingredients, perfect for enjoying on your patio at the end of a hot dusty day. After all, July is usually the very best of our British summer, in all its elusive, golden glory.

So whether you’re packing your bucket and spade and heading off to build sand castles on the beach, visiting the park or bandstand to hear live music on a sunny afternoon or simply enjoying the squeals of the children splashing in their paddling pool, don’t delay - get out there and make the most of it! But beware, wherever you’re heading others may well have the same idea, there may be wasps, sand or simply too much sun to spoil your sandwiches. It’s worth persevering though, as when everything comes together, a picnic can feel like perfection. If you are lucky enough to discover a spot in dappled shade, away from the crowds, no wasps, and have a glass of something cold in your hand then it’s time to embrace your inner Sebastian Flyte, simply lie back and enjoy the moment!

Itwashotenoughnowtomakeusseektheshade. Onasheepcroppedknollunderaclumpofelmsweatethestrawberriesand drankthewine-asSebastianpromised,theyweredelicious together-andwelitfat,Turkishcigarettesandlayonour backs,Sebastian’seyesontheleavesabovehim,mineonhis profile,whiletheblue-greysmokerose,untroubledbyanywind, totheblue-greenshadowsoffoliage,andthesweetscentofthe tobaccomergedwiththesweetsummerscentsaroundus……"

Evelyn Waugh, Brideshead Revisitede

Chocolate&RaspberryBrownies

Ingredients

● 200g dark chocolate, broken into chunks

● 100g milk chocolate, broken into chunks

● 250g pack salted butter

● 400g soft light brown sugar

● 4 large eggs

● 140g plain flour

● 50g cocoa powder

● 200g raspberries

Method

● Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Line a 20 x 30cm baking tray tin with baking parchment. Put the chocolate, butter and sugar in a pan and gently melt, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat.

● Stir the eggs, one by one, into the melted chocolate mixture. Sieve over the flour and cocoa, and stir in. Stir in half the raspberries, scrape into the tray, then scatter over the remaining raspberries. Bake on the middle shelf for 30 mins or, if you prefer a firmer texture, for 5 mins more. Cool before slicing into squares.

● Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

APreciousResource

ACat’sConscience

Adogwilloftenstealabone, Butconscienceletshimnotalone, Andbyhistailhisguiltisknown.

Butcatsconsidertheftagame, And,howsoeveryoumayblame, Refusetheslightestsignofshame.

Whenfoodmysteriouslygoes, ThechancesarethatPussyknows Morethansheleadsyoutosuppose. Andhencethereisnoneedforyou, IfPussdeclinesamealortwo, Tofeelherpulseandmakeado.

Anon

HomeComforts

Lavenderflowersatthistimeofyearandit’s reallyeasytomakeasoothingbathessencefrom itsfragrantflowers. Place1cupofdriedofresh lavenderflowersinabowl. Pour2cupsofboiling wateroverthemandleavetoinfusefor10minutes. Strain,thenaddthesolutiontowarmbathwater andsoakyourcaresawayforabout15minutes.

Thisisgreatatbedtime,andreallyhelpswith gettingagoodnight’ssleep. Itworksaslavender containsrelaxingandsoothingessentialoilswhich thewarmbathwaterwillhelpyourskinabsorb. Lavenderalsohasanti-inflammatoryand antisepticpropertieswhichhelphealwounds. Thebotanicalnamefortheplant,Lavandula,is derivedfromtheLatinverb“lavare” which meanstowash.