Buyer, February 2016 (English) by Buyer

F E B RUA RY

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BEPPE ANGIOLINI F a l l / W i n t e r 2 016 -17: t r e n d s , t a l e n t s , f a s h i o n w e e k s , f a i r s

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CONTENTS

STRATEGIES

14 8

FASHION NEWS The latest updates from the industry

14 BEPPE ANGIOLINI The vision behind the success of the Sugar buyer 20 ALICIA VIKANDER The muse of Louis Vuitton talks about cinema and fashion

ONLINE STORE Avenue 32 on the importance of research and content marketing

VIA DEL BUYER Online wholesale platform created on the needs of buyers

TREND FORECASTING Women, men and children collections to buy for Fall 2016

LUISA VIA ROMA International success born in Italy

RUSSIAN BUYERS UNION President Elena Bugranova presents its mission

EVENTS

DESIGNERS 26 ALESSANDRO DELL’ ACQUA N°21 and Rochas creative director of on his approach to fashion design 30 WOMEN PRE-FALL 2016 From excess of colours to minimalism of shapes 36 YOUNG DESIGNERS 10 Italian talents taking industry by storm 42

MEN FALL 2016 Classics reinvented on the runway

CONSCIOUS FASHION The big names in eco-friendly fashion

PITTI UOMO The universe of male elegance in Florence

PITTI BIMBO The numbers and the trends in kids’ fashion

FASHION FAIRS The calendar of professional appointments for the season

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FASHION WEEKS Overview of fashion destinations around the globe

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BUYER February 2016 Buyer magazine is created specifically for the needs and interests of fashion buyers. With separate editions published in English and Russian, it features wholesale industry news, trend reports and interviews with buying and retail experts.

Editor in chief Marina Bugranova

Beppe Angiolini Photo Lior Susana Hair and MUA Eleonora Zanetti Photo assistant Lorenzo Formicola Supported by

CONTACTS For advertising enquiries

Executive editor Galia Milovzorova Fashion editor Anastasia Khvatova Art director Lior Susana

Commercial director Asya Tatevosyan asya@buyer.world For editorial and other enquiries Administrative director Maria Sakharchuk maria@buyer.world

Graphic designer Daria Elagina

www.buyer.world

Copy editors Jen Rouse Maya Svetlova Translators Anna Slavuskaya Natalya Rigvava Maria Slautina Contributors Alisa Nesterova Marta Topolskaya Tatiana Rosenstein Paolo Briscese

Print Radin print d.o.o. Gospodarska 9, HR 10431 Sveta Nadelja

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BEING A BUYER There’s usually a significant difference between what you see in glossy magazines and what is sold in boutiques, unless you’re in New York or Paris. Fashion media is a great source of inspiration, presenting fashion as art, but the gift of the buyer is, on the contrary, being able to find the sweet spot between designers’ fantasies and what will be comfortable and practical in everyday life. Catwalks and showrooms are pretty different places, and our magazine focuses on the needs of the professional responsible for picking out the pieces that will enhance the beauty of every woman and provide comfort and elegance to every man. The modern market, so packed with goods on offer, only has space for the strongest specialists, who have found the right compromise between the needs of their customers and their individual approach. Today’s buyer is often an entrepreneur, a creative director and a sales and marketing manager all at the same time. The buying profession is multifaceted, tough and interesting, which is why we want to share with you some ideas on how to manage your business better, buy smarter and enjoy it all even more. For the first issue of Buyer we’ve quizzed the people behind the main boutiques of Italy about their know-how, together with the buyers of some important online stores. Of course we’re getting ready for the fashion week season, so we’ve also prepared show schedules and advice for you to make the most of your trip to the new-entry fashion capitals, from Moscow to Tokyo. You can also flick through next autumn’s trends and our selection of young and talented designers. Good reading and buying!

M.Bugranova

Marina Bugranova Buyer and editor in chief

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FASHION NEWS GILES DEACON MOVES TOWARDS HAUTE COUTURE Fashion designer Giles Deacon announced that he is to specialise in highend fashion and temporarily close his line of everyday wear. ‘We want to focus on what we do well, and maximise the success of the red carpet and private client work we’ve been doing over the past four years.’ In the upcoming season Deacon will skip London Fashion Week and will instead present his new collection at Haute Couture in Paris.

COACH WINS BACK LOST PRESTIGE The image of this American brand has been suffering for the past few years due to its active participation in discount sales. But the quick sales revenue this generated came at a price: the label began to be perceived as a brand for mass consumption rather than an exclusive luxury brand, an image Coach had previously enjoyed since 1941. The company has now charted their course back to the top with the hire of star designer Stuart Vevers, the reduction of discount sales down to a minimum, and the closing of stores in shopping centres in favour of flagship stores. The results are already apparent: sales of high-end items are growing, and the company’s stocks are up 12%.

N°21 ENTERS MARKET FOR KIDS

The successful Italian label N°21 also presented its first children’s line in January of this year at Pitti Bimbo in Florence. ‘The N°21 Kids Collection was born as an answer to many requests from clients, friends, and stores and is also a new challenge for the company,’ said Alessandro Dell’Acqua, founder and director of the fashion house. Prior to this new move the N°21 label debuted at Milan Fashion Week in 2012 with a women’s collection, and added a men’s line in 2014.

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LA PERLA HAS A NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR Pedro Lourenco is not new to the fashion world. Before this new position, he worked at Lanvin and Giambattista Valli. Now the designer has set to work at La Perla, the luxury Italian lingerie label, and his first fall/winter 2016 collection can be seen at the end of February during Milan Fashion Week. ‘I’ve always admired the La Perla label and the philosophy of its founder, Ada Masotti, as well as their perfect symmetry of femininity and modernity,’ says Lourenco.

BALMAIN TO LAUNCH CHILDREN’S LINE The French fashion house Balmain plans to present a children’s line in June 2016. Judging by the first photo released on Balmain’s official website, Balmain Kids reflects the individual style of this fashion house. The house’s creative director, Olivier Rousteing, created the children’s line as well as the main collection. In the early stages, clothing sales for young fashionistas will take place directly in Balmain boutiques and through their online store.

NORDSTROM TO OPEN SECOND NEW DEPARTMENT STORE IN NEW YORK Nordstrom, the popular luxury class store, has not even opened the doors of its first full store in Manhattan yet, but has already decided to build a second store. In 2018 they are planning to open a huge seven-storey department store with 26,500m2 of space on 57th Street. Not too far away, on Columbus Circle, the company has already bought 4,000m2 of space for a second store. These Nordstrom stores will be neighbours with such business giants as Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman, and Saks. 12

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FASHION NEWS NEW INTEL TECHNOLOGY MAY CHANGE THE RETAIL WORLD FOREVER

STREET RETAIL INCREASES IN MOSCOW

According to a report by Colliers International, at the end of 2015, the percentage of free retail space on the main central commerce streets in Moscow was 11%, substantially lower than previous years. This positive dynamic comes against a backdrop of a 25-30% drop in rental rates for those properties in highest demand in the city. However, it’s not the same story everywhere. For example, on Stoleshnikovy Lane, traditionally home to many high-end boutiques, the number of vacant rental properties has, conversely, increased.

Innovative new technology called RealSense is about to take the guesswork out of shopping and revolutionise retail. The program takes 3D measurements of buyers and then recommends the appropriate size, making choosing clothes and shoes easier and more effective than ever before. The technology will even save information in its system so that the client can make future purchases online without worrying about getting the wrong size. RealSense is already in used at Brooks Brothers and Nordstrom.

ERES OPENS FIRST STORE IN SAINT PETERSBURG

THE BFC/VOGUE FASHION FUND ANNOUNCES CANDIDATES FOR 2016 PRIZE Emilia Wickstead, Mother of Pearl, Osman, Prism, and Sophia Webster are the candidates competing for the grand prize: a year’s mentoring programme and £200,000 to help them take their businesses to the next level. Previous winners of the prize include designers Mary Katrantzou, Erdem, Peter Pilotto, and Christopher Kane.

Eres, the French women’s lingerie and swimwear brand owned by Chanel, will open a new store in the centre of St. Petersburg on Nevsky Prospect. This will be their fifth store in Russia and the first outside Moscow. ‘Nevsky Prospect continues to prove its popularity with retailers, regardless of the economic downturn. The demand for rental properties here is slowly returning,’ commented Anna Lapchenko, a brand consultant on rental properties in the northern capital.

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JIMMY CHOO CONQUERS JAPAN The fashion brand Jimmy Choo shared news of a hike in sales in Asia in 2015, particularly in Japan. This includes the brand’s line of designer men’s shoes, though women’s heels still hold the bestseller spot. Jimmy Choo’s business is also going well in the United States despite fierce competition and differences in exchange rates. But there are some losses as well – the company is seeing a drop in sales in Europe. This is due to a decrease in the number of Russian buyers as a result of the country’s economic crisis.

RUSSIAN SHOE COMPANIES END PARTNERSHIPS WITH TURKEY

THE RIGHT STRATEGY FOR RAY-BAN

Nadezhda Demidova, General Director of the National Shoe Union, recently reported that large shoe brands such as Zenden, Tervolina, Yunichel, and Ekonika, who even last year were actively partnering with Turkish suppliers and producers, have stopped doing business with the country. Even though official sanctions do not pertain to this sector, companies have already experienced many problems at customs and have decided not to risk it. Instead they’re setting their sights on products from China, Romania, Brazil, and other countries.

Over a period of 15 years, Luxottica, a giant in the eyewear business that owns the Ray-Ban label, has been able to revive the once fading popularity of aviator glasses, significantly improve price positioning, and bring about a more than tenfold increase in sales. The latest news is the recent opening of their first Ray-Ban flagship store, in the prestigious SoHo district of New York. The secret to their success is a precise brand development strategy whose key elements are high quality glasses made in Italy and continuing technological innovation.

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THE ‘WRONG’ FASHION BEPPE ANGIOLINI, FOUNDER OF THE SUGAR BOUTIQUE AND HONORARY PRESIDENT OF CAMERA DEI BUYER, REVEALS HOW HIS OUTLOOK ON FASHION HAS MADE HIM ONE OF THE MOST INFLUENTIAL BUYERS IN ITALY

INTERVIEW: Marina Bugranova PHOTO: Lior Susana

How did the story of Sugar begin? Sugar was born when I was still a university student. I loved fashion, art and beauty and I had been a careful observer ever since childhood − I had this thing for being attentive towards everything around me. Having said that, one day I decided to open a small boutique, a shop in Corso Italia, in the historic centre of Arezzo. It featured very unique and sophisticated items, maybe too forward for the beginning of the eighties. After two years of struggle, I left everything else behind to dive into the world of fashion completely and that was when Sugar started to take off. At first I invested, sowing and then harvesting. The opening of our internationally recognised trend-setting boutique in Arezzo is very special to me and is a reward for my longterm commitment to the world of fashion. How do you think the work of the buyer has evolved through the years? It has become more challenging because the mood of the fashion system has changed. I remember how easy it was in the past to place an order without risks or worries involved. Today, buyers need to be able to make better choices, since the final customer is much more demanding and specific about the purchase. In the past, we used to buy top brands in complete freedom. What is really important today is the ability to mix up products. The key word is identity, and buyers need to personalise their space and send a clear message to the final customer. This applies to everyone: from the designer who creates the product to the press and the manufacturer.

The buyer is the person who brings the designers’ creations to the street. It is a very important job and now more than ever we need to communicate our DNA. The looks we choose need to be diverse and we need to team apparel with jewellery or a hat so it becomes exclusive. After all, luxury itself is exclusive. I’m not a fan of showing off luxury for its own sake. Instead I believe we need to create a democratic and intelligent luxury. Fashion is beauty and we need to help people express a unique and clear style, because this is more important than trends. This is the strength of a modern buyer: the ability to make good purchases, mix them up well and create a style. Your shops have a strong identity. Is it mainly strategy or intuition that drives you? It is a dream. I have travelled the world extensively and have always been drawn to beauty and art. After all, fashion is a form of art and to me putting together a display window means expressing myself. The same happens when an artist paints or a designer puts together a runway show. My windows have often been photographed and my shop is a container, a box that changes its appearance and atmosphere every six months. I think I have to create an emotion for the passers-by because it is the most powerful trigger. How do you create a personal style? In 2016 what convinces me the most is the concept of ‘wrong’ fashion. I don’t like it when things are too perfect and thought out. What we need is something 17

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I DON’T LIKE IT WHEN THINGS ARE TOO PERFECT AND THOUGHT OUT. WHEN YOUR LOOK IS TOO PERFECT, TOO MUCH THE WAY THE DESIGNER INTENDED, WHAT IS MISSING IS YOUR OWN ENERGY

mainly emotional, but also pre-planned to a degree, as the final goal is to sell the product. Balance of qualityproduct-price on one hand and creativity on the other is essential. When I choose an item I never have a particular customer in mind, but I always pick what I like and what fits in the context of my container. Sometimes I don’t even look at the price tag − I like the product and that’s it. I’m not a rational person and this applies to every single aspect of my life. Sometimes it can be a flaw and sometimes a strength, it depends. How do you find new brands and trends? Finding new brands today is much easier than it was in the past. The world is so globalised that you can find anything within seconds. Today, it is enough simply to switch on a computer, whereas in the past I literally had to track down products on trips around the world, visiting galleries in Paris, New York or London. Milan is also an influential city in the fashion world, but sometimes Italians are not that good at creating the glamour that other cities are surrounded by. The whole world envies us for our artistic heritage, we are creative people and have great minds, but are unfortunately often unable to make the most of it. New York, Paris, London, Los Angeles and Berlin are bustling cities where younger generations belonging to different cultures create style and trends. Fashion takes inspiration from the street and then brings it back to the street. The street teaches us and gives us input when we look at people on their way to work or out on the town at night. I often look around trying to capture something and make it mine. What we see inspires us , then we transform it to make it our own and maybe create a new message, for example, for our shop windows. In fashion the one thing that is really insulting is copying. We finally live in a free world and freedom includes the opportunity to wear simple fashion apparel, pieces found in a market, vintage or capsules of young designers. Mixing up is good, but copying is unacceptable. While we should all look up to the most talented designers and catch their essence, what we need to come up with in the end is a personal version of it all. This is what Sugar has done over the years. I’m not saying I have invented anything here, but I have always been inspired by the world. I believe that my strength lies in the fact that I have been able to create my own world, clean and essential, and made special by details. It is simple and refined with an eye to the tradition that I love.

‘wrong’, and that means personality. It doesn’t matter if the fashion item you are wearing is not the right one. It’s actually even better when it isn’t. When your look is too perfect, too much the way the designer intended, what is missing is your own energy, the creative flow that belongs to you or to your style consultant. The ‘wrong’ fashion is the weapon of the moment and it is a winner in every circumstance. Perfection in fashion is an outdated myth. How do you make a selection of brands for the boutiques? Brands selection is essential in our job because everything else depends on it. The process I follow is

What is the right balance between top brands and young designers? To me top brands are very important. Behind a brand there 18

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is so much hard work: six months of research and study for a collection.. I have had the chance to see first hand in some well-known companies how much effort goes into production. But nowadays there is a wider picture of the industry that needs to be taken into consideration. I have often been part of contests such as Who’s On Next and have noticed that a common mistake among young people is trying really hard to come up with something amazing to catch everyone’s eye. Contemporary fashion doesn’t need excess. It needs research, style and polish. It needs a clearcut identity. Today, loud fashion is not in fashion. True style is made of details and of little things put together and it is beautiful when it becomes one with the person wearing it and when it helps you be yourself.

of short-term art, since a window can be considered a form of art to some extent. So I recreated several Sugar boutique windows with a beginning and an end date. They were meant to represent a form of art drawing to end; a temporary image followed by another. We are currently building a new space in Arezzo, a historic building dating back to the XV century which we hope will become a meeting place for fashion and art lovers. Clothing will be surrounded by design objects and its presence will be very discreet. Last year, during the construction works and the excavations, we found 180 m2 of wonderful mosaics from the first century. It turned out to be a Roman Domus! I’m thinking of using this space for the work of young artists engaged in different fields and to organise exhibitions and events. By the end of the year, this incredible place will host the new headquarters of Sugar, where fashion will live side by side with other highly researched pieces and where events and many moments of human sharing will take place.

When a blogger wears something only to be photographed it is worth nothing, because with street style the weirder you look, the more successful you become. Excess is part of the game sometimes − after all, it's important to be able to reinvent ourselves. We’ve never achieved our full potential and there is nothing worse than believing we are the best. There is always a new goal to reach and this is the reason why it is so important to reinvent ourselves without altering our identity. Fashion is made to be changed, to facilitate innovation, and to look forward.

CONTEMPORARY FASHION DOESN’T NEED EXCESS. IT NEEDS A CLEAR-CUT IDENTITY. TODAY, LOUD FASHION IS NOT IN FASHION

In the modern world there are countless styles, designers who create and manufacturers who produce. The variety is limitless, and well-executed and interesting fashion pieces can be found everywhere. What you have to do is look deeper inside, dive into a collection and spot the actual idea, the inspiration and the main theme. It is necessary to find a young designer with a clear message and then mix his creations with someone else’s. A brilliant buyer reads the designer’s mind and never picks a brand with an unclear essence. Are there any future projects you’re particularly looking forward to? I am a huge fan of the creative process. I was once contacted by the Venice Biennale to set up an exhibition, a sort of summary of the fashion and art displayed in my shop windows. They wanted to dedicate it to that kind 20

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MEET LOUIS VUITTON'S MUSE THE GLAMOROUS PREMIERE OF ‘THE DANISH GIRL’, STARRING EDDIE REDMAYNE AS THE TRANSGENDER PIONEER LILI ELBE AND ALICIA VIKANDER AS ELBEN’S WIFE GERDA, TOOK PLACE DURING THE 72ND INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL IN VENICE. THE SWEDISH MOVIE STAR AND LOUIS VUITTON’S LATEST MUSE, ALICIA VIKANDER, IS POSSIBLY THE HOTTEST YOUNG ACTRESS IN THE WORLD RIGHT NOW. WE HAD A CHAT WITH HER ABOUT HER WORK AND HER PASSION FOR HAUTE COUTURE INTERVIEW: Tatiana Rosenstein PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

What makes your character Gerda such a heroine? It is inspirational to see a woman who has the ability to show true and unconditional love: someone who would sacrifice her needs for the happiness of another person. Even if this other person were to disappear and be replaced by someone new and unknown. This kind of devotion is extremely admirable. Personally, I have even questioned if this kind of love is possible. But this is what Tom (director – Tom Hooper) saw in my character and I had to embody his vision! I am very proud of my Gerda. ‘The Danish Girl’ portrays one of the most sincere and complex love stories I have ever read and I am proud that I was able to create such a deeply loving person, whose example I could never live up to in reality. I do not think I could be as self-sacrificing and loving as my heroine Gerda. It is fascinating how independent your character is as a woman and an artist living a century ago, while we are still questioning whether we women are independent enough nowadays! I think the ideal of complete female emancipation is still far from reality. I work in a male-dominated industry and I have to say, during the last four productions I haven’t even done a single scene with another woman! On the other hand, I am a hard-working woman myself, independent and successful I hope, and this is made possible by the huge advantages and progress of our time. You are a hard-working woman. Do you have time for yourself, to enjoy life or to go out? I’ve been doing a lot for the past five to six years, but I am happy to have work. This summer, I finally had some time off. So I used it to go out, meet my friends for dinner, to cook for them, to spend time with my family and to watch movies. But as soon as I started to watch anything, I become so excited about the many talented

directors out there that I admire and with whom I would like to work. And once again, I started thinking about work and about how quickly I could go back! Do you frequently visit Sweden? I haven’t been to Sweden since I started working abroad. It’s been almost five years. I talk on the phone a lot with my family. And they are very supportive and understanding, they constantly tell me that nothing would have happened if I had stayed in the same place just waiting for an opportunity. But it is hard not to have a home anywhere, and it is always difficult to jump around from one project to another. For the first two years, I was really scared because despite meeting great people and having a huge team around you, making films can be lonely. Now, after many years of intense work, I have even started recognising people on set. Like in ‘The Danish Girl’, I probably knew 30 or 40 people from the crew even among lighting technicians or make-up assistants. I mean, Stockholm is a gorgeous city, but very few of my friends still live there. My closest friends, who I grew up with, are now based in Los Angeles, New York, London or Paris. Which is great, because I see them much more often – just not back home in Sweden. Is it true that you become an actress after giving up a dancing career? At the age of 15 I moved to Stockholm to study at the Royal Swedish Ballet School. I am still very grateful for that amazing time, because ballet taught me a lot, like self-reliance, how to move or to take up space in a room. However I still have a back injury, and I don’t think I’ll ever recover enough to dance professionally. 23

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"THE DANISH GIRL" PREMIERE AT THE VENICE BIENNALE

Yesterday, during the premiere of the movie, you stepped out on the red carpet in a marvellous Louis Vuitton dress, a sort of Northern folk costume… That dress is very special, from the Louis Vuitton Resort 2016 line. I haven’t seen many dresses like this worn for a film premiere. I felt like I was on the red carpet not as myself, but as some heroine on a film set in some fantasy movie or in a fairy tale. I loved it. Tell us about your everyday style, your tastes? When it comes to my everyday fashion, I value comfort and I love casual style. People often tell me – well not in Sweden, but abroad – that my style is too simple. Just trousers and blouses, often black. When it comes to real performance, shooting, premiere or official events I do love nice dresses, but then it’s usually my stylists picking out outfits for me. When was your first contact with the world of fashion, with haute couture? It was three years ago at the Cannes Film Festival. We were celebrating the release of the film 'A Royal Affair' until the morning hours when I got a message to take a flight to Cannes to do a press conference. I didn’t even have time to pack anything, and when I arrived in 24

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LOUIS VUITTON CRUISE 2016

Cannes I was invited to a premiere. So I ended up having to borrow a Valentino gown. I remember entering the suite of Valentino in Cannes and stylists showed me several dresses. But I had no idea what choice to make. Every dress was so beautiful, so I closed my eyes; I was blushing and blindly pointed at some dress. And they started to dress me in this hand-made masterpiece with 60 buttons. While they were doing up those buttons I remember I even held my breath at one point! The dress was made for a tall model and there was no time to alter it, so I needed to wear incredibly high heels. I remember, I took my shoes off in the cinema and by the time the credits rolled on the screen, I could not get my shoes back on because my feet were so swollen. I did not want to ruin my first red carpet in Cannes by walking out the cinema barefoot. So I stayed in the cinema while my agent left to get me another pair of shoes! It was my first experience with haute couture. However since then, I’ve been eager to meet those artists; I wanted to know more about fashion. Because this experience taught me how complex and extraordinary real fashion can be.

LOUIS VUITTON CRUISE 2016

teenager. Attending it this year with Louis Vuitton’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière in a gorgeous silver couture gown he designed for me was both surreal and enjoyable: an experience I will never forget.

I hope you had better experiences afterwards! Of course I hadmany wonderful experiences afterwards! For example I was recently invited to the annual Met Ball in New York. I used to dream about this event when I was a 25

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P h o t o: c o u r t es y o f N o 21 p r es s o f f i c e

D E S I G N E RS

"I like the process of turning ideas into something concrete, as well as an opportunity to make something c re a t i ve ." A l e s s a n d r o D e l l â&#x20AC;&#x2122;A c q u a

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A DESIGNER SHOULDN’T BE NOSTALGIC WE ASKED THE FOUNDER OF THE BRAND N°21 ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA ABOUT HIS VIEW OF ITALIAN QUALITY AND THE FASHION INDUSTRY’S FUTURE INTERVIEW: Paolo Briscese PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

Your brand, N°21, is gaining in popularity, not only in Italy, but also abroad. Why did you choose the number 21? Does it have a special meaning for you? 28

21? It’s my birthday. It’s become my lucky number over time. Your creations celebrate feminine beauty and elegance. Your vision of creativity seems very instinctive and natural, as if ideas crossed your mind without any effort.

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with the cinema, for example. I'm a big movie buff, but I’m also keen on the female silhouettes, sophistication and sensuality of the actresses of Italian neorealism. I’m also enthusiastic about the style and refined taste of Milan’s elite society. All of it becomes a sketch of future ideas that afterward takes on its specific forms and volumes, and eventually turns into a fully fledged collection.

N°21 PRE-FALL 2016

What qualities, in your opinion, should a fashion brand possess to be noticed and appreciated? Designers should be able to join the flow of new events and trends. The main thing any creator must avoid is getting stuck in the past. I think following these rules is the starting point for brand development. The fashion world is constantly changing, so you must always be open to new developments.

N°21 PRE-FALL 2016

Which aspect of your job do you like most and which do you not like? I like the process of turning ideas into something concrete, as well as an opportunity to make something creative. The thing I like least about my job is social engagements full of camera flashbulbs and so on.

Where do you get your inspiration from? For me inspiration can spring from completely different places. Often, an idea comes from a strong impression caused by some affair or event. If this feeling gets stuck in your head, there is a big chance that it will turn into something more. It can be an obsession N°21 PRE-FALL 2016

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ROCHAS PRE-FALL 2016

You took on the role of creative director for the French brand Rochas in 2013. What does having your work valued so highly mean to you? Being a man over 50, I’m so happy to be in such an important place. In fact, I was very surprised at Rochas' choice, as there are a lot of talented and younger designers around. But the fact that I was taken onboard is testament to the great importance of the ‘Made in Italy’ label. We continue to do a good job, and due to this we’re well known far beyond our home country.

For example, when I look at the images created by myself ten years ago, I absolutely do not feel nostalgia. On the contrary, I quite calmly understand that I always need to move on in spite of everything. My desire to create and my aesthetic taste still remain unchanged. Today, I still opt for things every woman needs in her everyday life instead of something extravagant and loud just for the catwalk. How do you manage to follow fashion trends and keep the classic, artisan approach to business at the same time? These two things seem incompatible. Over the years I have become a realist and a pragmatist. I no longer dream of catwalk shows similar to the real performances. I'm trying to create collections aimed at consumers. Today, much has changed in our business. Nowadays a designer should be not only

At the age of 23 you were entrusted with the position of creative director at Genny. Which changes that occurred during this time in the world of fashion were the most important? There were very many of them. Some were very obvious, while the others weren’t noticeable at first glance. 30

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You often travel abroad. What does travelling mean to you? My head is often up in the clouds, even if I keep still. But travelling is, first of all, a process of discovery for me. It slakes my curiosity as well as my emotional thirst. It is a very challenging and fascinating experience.

an entrepreneur and manager, but feed his creative vision as well. What do you think about fashion's low cost networks and the growing affordability of designer items? Many high fashion brands have already evolved. Apart from exclusive collections and podium stuff, they have begun to create more ready-to-wear lines. Moreover, now you can get whatever you want via the internet. So the consumer’s attitude to shopping is changing as well. And we must take this into account.

Do you think any Italian brand is ready for generational change? I would say this change is necessary. There are no other options. We must become more united, work systematically, and continue to think creatively. We need to support young and promising designers, promote close cooperation between private and public sectors, and hold events in the world of fashion. Italy is a treasure that is yet to be fully discovered, this is particularly so with the fashion industry. Your world is full of emotions, discoveries and learning. Do you have an ultimate goal? Investigations and learning still go on. I do not want to feel like a man who has already done everything in his life. I will always strive for new experiments and sensations. Fashion is an exciting world full of passion. And we, designers, become its reflection.

ALESSANDRO DELL'ACQUA The founder of N°21 Dell'Acqua is one of the brightest personalities in the Italian fashion industry. Since 2013 he has been working as the creative director for the French brand Rochas. His influence on the company’s style is obvious. Alessandro capably combines masculine and feminine elements, creating aesthetically perfect clothing combinations. The designer is passionate about experimentation, but at the same time, he remains true to the best traditions of dressmaking.

Diane Von Furstenberg

Pre-Fall 2016

Red Valentino Pre-Fall 2016

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Fendi Pre-Fall 2016

No 21 Pre-Fall 2016

Alberta Ferretti Pre-Fall 2016

SHEER MADNESS

This unusual hunger for old-fashioned and sometimes funny trends appeared a few seasons ago with the arrival of the new Gucci Creative Director, Alessandro Michele. It was he who was responsible for a complete transformation of the Italian luxury house, which concurrently transformed ‘granny chic’ into a key trend of the season. Gucci’s ‘grannies’ definitely enjoyed their youth in the 70s. Knitted jackets over blouses with cambric collars and bows, elongated cardigans, loose pleated knee-length skirts or even below-the-knee skirts, typical 70s decoration and fun applique – the autumn will see it all come tumbling out like old yellowed photos from the family albums. But it’s not only Alessandro Michele who’s on a 70s tip; other designers 32

Text: Anastasia Khvatova

EVERYTHING YOU THOUGHT YOU KNEW ABOUT FASHION HAS BEEN TURNED ON ITS HEAD IN THE LATEST COLLECTIONS: WHAT WAS ONCE CONSIDERED TO BE DATED IS NOW ULTRAFASHIONABLE. LEADING BRANDS SET THE TREND FOR THE NEW SEASON, CALLING FOR US TO TAKE FASHION TIPS FROM OUR MOTHERS… EVEN OUR GRANDMOTHERS!

are also exploring the archives. So we catch Alessandro Dell'Acqua reminiscing about the charm of knitted, printed below-the-knee dresses in the collection for his brand No. 21; Diane von Fürstenberg presents multicoloured elongated cardigans in combination with motley jumpers and skirts; the Italian brand Vivetta gives us practical brown suits to be worn with checkered bow-collared blouses; Fendi and Delpozo, in turn, give new life to voluminous robe coats with particular colours. Speaking of colours, ditsy florals, abstracts and checked designs are favourites this season. The garments’ colour scheme includes deep shades of earth and aubergine, orange, grey and coffee, in a final youthful fling. The new season’s fashion allows layering, combinations of incompatible things and a childlike youthfulness – and immaturity – when choosing a dress. According to the designers’ basic rules, modern granny outfits should be supplemented by knitted tights, spacious reticules and wide patent leather boots or comfortable chunky-heeled shoes. And, of course, a kerchief is an indispensable attribute of the following autumn – it can be used as a neckerchief, as a pioneer tie, or put on handbag handle. But the best way of wearing a kerchief is tying it around your head like our grandmothers used to do.

Style tips 1)

2) 3)

A key combination for the following autumn is a vest or a jumper over a cambic turn-down collar blouse. Another particular style is teaming large glasses and knitted berets. The hem length of skirts or dresses should be below the knee but above the ankle. This is the key feature of new granny chic.

Don’t forget the embellishments on the outerwear of the season from RED Valentino, Alexander McQueen and Gucci.

Emilio Pucci Pre-Fall 2016 Delpozo Pre-Fall 2016

Moschino Pre-Fall 2016

Valentino Pre-Fall 2016

Gucci Pre-Fall 2016

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Prabal Gurung Pre-Fall 2016

Paco Rabanne Pre-Fall 2016

A MINIMALIST PROGRAMME IN COUNTERBALANCE TO THE RAGE FOR PRETENTIOUSNESS AND STYLISTICALLY OVERLOADED IMAGES, A GROUP OF DESIGNERS ARE DEFENDING THE PRINCIPLES OF MINIMALISM WHERE ECHOES OF THE 90S CAN CLEARLY BE HEARD Strict silhouettes, perfect proportions, clean cuts and understated details like asymmetrical hems and geometric cutouts – this is the minimalism of the coming autumn. In principle, it is not much different from previous seasons, except that the fascination with the 90s of Calvin Klein’s heyday has become more obvious. Distinctive features of the new minimalism include mostly straight cut skirts, slim fitted jackets, loose fitted trousers and, in most cases, monochrome. Black, white, grey – they are at the opposite sides of life philosophy but almost always together in fashion. These colour combinations, coupled with neutral beige and blue easily evade all charges of monotony or dullness, thanks to their selfsufficient design. Amid grandiose images of the 70s, minimalistic outfits from Nina Ricci, Antonio Berardi and Narciso Rodriguez look strict and natural. Tight-fitting turtlenecks 34

Text: Anastasia Khvatova

Versace Pre-Fall 2016

Marni Pre-Fall 2016

Altuzarra Pre-Fall 2016

Jason Wu Pre-Fall 2016

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Mugler Pre-Fall 2016

Style tips Watch out for wide leg jumpsuits – they will be a great seller in the coming season. Loose culottes featuring smooth fabrics, like in Marni collection, are perfectly combined with strict jackets. Riding boots are a perfect partner for minimalistic straight dresses. Asymmetrical cuts, cutouts on shoulders and sides, uneven hems – all these details make a simple dress more exquisite and unusual.

Diesel Black Gold Pre-Fall 2016

1) 2) 3) 4)

Text: Anastasia Khvatova

in combination with straight dresses are the must-have from Jason Wu’s collection for Boss; the best sport jackets with voluminous shoulders in addition to straight trousers and understated coats were made by Donatella Versace for Versace; and for the evening seek out a slip dress without extra decor or accessories, just like Michael Kors or Altuzarra have in their collections. Formal day dresses also have distinctive features of restraint and external simplicity. In this sense, Ralph Lauren has an exemplary collection. Almost completely comprised of a powdery beige colour, it consists of daily images such as coats and formal jackets, office dresses and certainly some sophisticated evening outfits. Calvin Klein’s collection is full of relaxed minimalism: perfect cuts, light textures, loose and easy silhouettes, while Diesel’s Black Gold collection has distinct sport motifs. In general, restraint is a winning and thoughtful move on behalf of the designers, offering a graphic clarity and simplicity that doesn’t annoy from season to season, making a bet on these outfits a great investment.

Versace Pre-Fall 2016

Ralph Lauren Pre-Fall 2016

Michael Kors Pre-Fall 2016

Hervé Léger Pre-Fall 2016

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THE YOUNG GUARD

Coliac

HATS OF ALL POSSIBLE SHAPES, SHOE-JEWELS AND HANDBAGS WITH LEGO BRICK APPLIQUE – WE’VE CHOSEN FOR YOU TEN OF THE BRIGHTEST NEW NAMES TO RECENTLY ENTER THE FASHION WORLD

02 Blazé Milano

Schield

01 SCHIELD

02 COLIAC

03 BLAZÉ MILANO

Jewellery designer Roberto Ferlito is from Sicily but lives and works in Florence. He draws on the experience of the most skilled jewellery craftsmen in his avant-garde collections. All pieces are 100% made in Italy.

Martina Grasselli founded her brand in 2009 and since that time has being creating shoe-jewels with pearls, colourful gems and pins which substitute for laces. Previously she worked with such brands as Stella McCartney, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian Louboutin.

When Corrada, Delfina and Sole met at the Elle Italia office – and realised that they shared the same passion for blazers – a new brand, entirely dedicated to this women's garment, was born. All Blazé jackets are made to order and crafted from the best European fabrics. Everything that usually ends up in your handbag can be carried easily in their wide pockets.

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Ultràchic 05

Les petits joueurs

04 ULTRÀCHIC

05 LES PETITS JOUEURS

It all started in 2006 with a very small collection of cashmere scarves, printed with the colours of the Italian football clubs. Today the Ultràchic brand of clothing and accessories is represented in 150 multi-brand stores all over the world and by two mono-brand boutiques in Seoul and Milan.

The brand was created in 2010 by pure chance, as its founder Maria Sole Cecchi says. To stand out at a party the designer decided to decorate her bag with the word ‘Love’ made from Lego bricks. The accessory was such a great success that she thought about creating a fashion line. Today the brand Les Petites Joueurs is represented in 145 countries around the world.

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May Moma

07 06

Quattromani

Ilariusss

06 QUATTROMANI

07 MAY MOMA

08 ILARIUSSS

The brand’s name is translated from the Italian for ‘four hands’ – these hands belong to their founders, designers Massimo Noli and Nicola Frau. This fashion duo pays much attention to colour, cut and fabric in their collection. Before creating their own brand, the pair worked for Les Copains.

Simona Nicolosi left her successful career in marketing to devote all her time to her hobby – creating jewellery. The designer harmoniously combines gemstones with quartz, Swarovski crystals and decorative elements made of silk or cotton. All pieces are made in Italy.

Ilaria Soncini not only designs but also crafts hats. She has extensive experience of working in theatre, where she created hats for such ballets as The Nutcracker and Romeo and Juliet. She also actively collaborates with Max Mara, Marios and Valentino.

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Benedetta Bruzziches Giuseppe di Morabito

09 GIUSEPPE DI MORABITO

10 BENEDETTA BRUZZICHES

The designer was born in Calabria and since his childhood has absorbed a love for southern architecture and Italian art. The traditions are harmoniously coupled with the latest trends in his collections. In spite of the fact that the brand only appeared recently, in 2014, he has quickly found fans among lovers of sophisticated style.

Her storm cloud clutches and quilted handbags have conquered the hearts of fashionistas all over the world. For Benedetta, each item created is not just an accessory but a whole story that then takes shape and colour. All her collections are manufactured in the Italian town of Caprarola where the designer was born.

Ermanno Scervino Fall 2016

Dior Homme Fall 2016

A CLASSIC OF THE GENRE

Versace Fall 2016

Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2016

Alexander McQuuen Fall 2016

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In the past, modesty was considered a gentleman's virtue. Today’s men don't like to look shy, and especially not at grand events. At least, designers don’t think so. The new classic style isn't only about suits, crisp shirts and sleek fitting coats, but also club jackets, embroidered shirts, and velvet cloaks. One-colour three-piece suits and the business stripe sets of bigwigs from Wall Street surrender under the pressure of dress suits on the verge of kitsch. Alexander McQueen’s men presented butterfly prints, and combined velvet jackets with snow-white sneakers. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana embellished their threepiece suits with embroidered flowers. Ermanno Scervino dressed trendy dandies in double-breasted velvet jackets with satin lapels reminiscent of dinner jackets. Together with velvet trousers this outfit might seem too pretentious, but a black silk shirt with an 44

Text: Anastasia Khvatova

Alexander McQueen Fall 2016

A CLASSIC SUIT, A WHITE SHIRT, A BOW TIE, A VEST, BUT AT LEAST WITH ONE COLOURFUL ELEMENT – THIS IS HOW THE MODERN DANDY ROLLS, RETAINING HIS LAID-BACK AND SLIGHTLY IRONIC STYLE EVEN IN THE EVENINGS

Giorgio Armani Fall 2016

Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2016

Ermanno Scervino Fall 2016

Dirk Bikkembergs Fall 2016

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open collar makes the look simpler. Dirk Bikkembergs also plays with the literal reading of the classic dress code: he complements formal dress with high boots and sports gloves. The everyday classic wardrobe cannot be without a grey checked suit. Donatella Versace gives a styling master class in how to wear it. It turns out that on weekdays it goes perfectly with a turtleneck! In fact, the Beatles were already wearing it this way back in the 60s, so now is a good time to resurrect this combination, and to give it a modern twist by putting on a cloak of metallic fabric and a self-assured smile. As for the suit silhouette, in most collections it is narrow. However, Italian maestro Giorgio Armani and Kris Van Assche from Dior Homme urge us not to write off loose-fitting models either. They transcend the retro spirit, and thanks to this seem more relaxed.

2) 3)

A jacket with print is not the immediate choice of less flamboyant men, but it can look quite formal. You just need to put it with a single-colour shirt and tie. Sneakers have definitely moved beyond sports style and entered the official wardrobe. They look best with a laid-back two-piece, without a tie. Classics are the basis of any wardrobe. Remember that this season suit silhouettes have become more close-fitting, and velvet and brocade complement the usual selection of fabrics.

Versace Fall 2016

Dior Homme Fall 2016

Style tips

Fendi Fall 2016

Alexander McQueen Fall 2016

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Brioni Fall 2016

Burberry Fall 2016

THE MIDNIGHT WARRIOR

Juun.J Fall 2016

Thankfully menswear has escaped another attack of militarism, which has started to grate after so many seasons. Details lifted from military uniforms have filled men’s wardrobes so long that they’ve become completely old hat, but the coming fall brings a new hero. The characters of the new Alexander McQueen fashion show, were lifted straight from a tale of true heroes, looking determined and purposeful in American pilots’ jackets, uniform trousers with red stripes, and straight-cut coats. The collection also boasts a party suit with a jacket embellished like an oldfashioned dress coat. Giorgio Armani and Ports 1961 are also investigating the style of the historical uniform – surprisingly, it can be paired with elastic ankle sports trousers and even shorts! A romantic hero was featured in the Lemaire collection. A contemporary Robin Hood in a hooded cloak was eager to defend 46

Text: Anastasia Khvatova

Ports 1961 Fall 2016

IN THESE DIFFICULT AND TURBULENT TIMES, DESIGNERS REACT INSTANTLY TO WORLD EVENTS. SO IT’S NO SURPRISE THAT THE IMAGE OF A NOBLE, VALIANT, BRAVE AND MYSTERIOUS DEFENDER REIGNS ON THE MEN’S RUNWAYS. THIS WARRIOR MAY BE AUSTERE, HE MAY BE TACITURN, BUT HE IS DEFINITELY THE SEASON’S HERO

Valentino Fall 2016

Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2016

Giorgio Armani Fall 2016

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Lemaire Fall 2016

1) 2) 3)

The double-breasted straight-cut overcoat with two rows of brass buttons is a universal wardrobe item matching any style of clothes Leather trousers look great with oversized pea coats. Look for the style tips in the collections by Juun.J and Diesel Black Gold The uniform jacket is an excellent alternative to an evening suit jacket— paired with dress trousers, its appropriate at any high-level event

Bottega Veneta Fall 2016

Style tips

Diesel Black Gold Fall 2016

the poor, supported by a masculine character in stylised military fatigues as seen at Jil Sander, and a dark knight in a double-breasted overcoat at Burberry. The leather trench coat with epaulettes and strap closures, lifted straight from military spy films, is another hero of the coming fall. These coats can be found in collections by Bottega Veneta or Valentino, paired with wide trousers and other classic items. Diesel Black Gold presents khaki pea coats fitting perfectly into the contemporary urban style. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana approached the trend head on, decorating their straight-cut brown coat with pistol embroidery. Keep back, he's armed and dangerous! More literal interpretations from the military style were also noticed, but those were exceptions rather than the new season’s rule. Stylised uniform took full control over the Moncler Gamme Bleu runway show, but the looks were better suited to a runway than reality. To complement your daily look, use just one ‘military’ accessory at a time. Designers just play soldiers, while actually promoting peace. In their collections, military style is all about fancy dress, whereas war is just a nightmare.

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FASHION AS AN ECOLOGICAL GUARDIAN UNTIL RECENTLY, THE CONCEPT OF GREEN OR ECO-FRIENDLY FASHION WAS SEEN AS SYNONYMOUS WITH GIVING UP A NUMBER OF DESIGN ELEMENTS. COMPANIES WHICH FOCUSED ON CARE FOR THE ENVIRONMENT OFTEN HAD TO SACRIFICE THE AESTHETIC COMPONENT OF THEIR COLLECTIONS AND USUALLY ONLY HAD A LIMITED NUMBER OF DESIGNS

Releasing a full line of ecofriendly clothing seemed unprofitable. The production costs were too high, and the number of customers too limited. Stores were more likely to stock t-shirts printed with slogans like ‘Save our Planet’ or ‘I’m for recycling’ than goods that were actually produced without harming the environment. This means environmental protection quickly turned into a marketing ploy, which brands from various countries returned to repeatedly. As time has passed, however, customers have become more serious about environmental issues. According to results from the international research company Nielsen, 66% of consumers around the world are ready to pay more for goods that are

produced in accordance with environmental standards. In fact, you don’t always have to spend more for environmentally friendly clothing and accessories. For example, a few years 48

ago Pinko released a capsule collection of six colourful bags dedicated to the culture of Ethiopia, each priced at only €58. The entire line is manufactured in Addis Ababa from 100%

African cotton in a factory with an environmentally friendly production process and which employs only women. For two seasons now Weekend Max Mara line has collaborated with

Text: Galia Milovzorova

LAURA STRAMBI

VOZ

OVER THE LAST FEW YEARS NOT ONLY THE BIG BRANDS AND FINAL CUSTOMERS, BUT ALSO FASHION BUYERS HAVE BEGUN TO TAKE THE ISSUE OF ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY SERIOUSLY

natural leather or fur at all in her collections, and who in 2015 broke a contract with her wool supplier after learning that animals had been mistreated on their farm. With every year the brand tries to bring their fashion line closer to the ideal of sustainability. For example, when manufacturing underwear Stella McCartney line uses no materials of animal origin. The brand prefers eco-cotton. The boning, underwire and fasteners for bras are made from recycled computer parts. Help for certain brands which have only just started their path to ecologically friendly production can be found with agencies such as EcoAge. They offer customised business solutions designed to protect the natural environment and ensure

STUDY NY

Saluzzo Yarns, which uses recycled plastic bottles to produce a revolutionary new thread called New Life. This thread is perfectly suited for the production of both outerwear and underwear. Its innovative technology allows the conservation of water and electricity and reduces carbon dioxide emissions into the atmosphere. Both of these brandsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; capsule collections consisted of a few models that were available in about 1,500 stores around the world and which had great commercial success. However, at about the same time the brand Puma tried a similar experiment which did not achieve the desired results. In 2013, the sportswear brand introduced the Incycle

collection, which included shoes, jackets and backpacks made from biodegradable materials and containing no toxic substances. However, shopping centres were in no hurry to stock eco-line items and, as a result, customers were only able to find them in Pumaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s flagship stores, which are not universally located. The Incycle collection was not in high demand there and because of this the brand officially declared the line a failure and stopped working on other similar projects. While a number of brands are reflecting on the benefits of such experiments, for some environmental responsibility is the foundation of their business. A striking example of this is designer Stella McCartney, who uses no 49

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stable growth for companies. Among the agency's clients are such giants of the fashion industry as Kering, the Gucci Group and Marks & Spencer. ‘The business model that is based only on maximising profit is no longer relevant, and concern for the environment has become much more than just a

marketing strategy. The fashion world has changed, and now it is based on a number of principles: nature, society, working conditions, and culture. This new business model meets the needs of all links in the chain,’ says Francesca Romana Rinaldi, Associate Professor, Department of Management BEHNO WORKERS

STELLA MCCARTNEY PRE FALL 2016

and Technology, Bocconi University of Milan. Her words are backed up by the facts: at the end of last year ten leaders of the Italian fashion market (Gucci, Prada, Armani, Zegna, Valentino, Ferragamo, OTB, Staff International, Loro Piana and Versace) decided to reduce the use of toxic substances in the creation of their collections. A specially prepared document includes the names of 500 chemicals that the parties to the agreement have committed themselves to replace with less toxic alternatives whenever possible. Additionally, these ‘big ten’ fashion houses will pay increased attention to the origins of the fabric and leather used in the manufacture of clothing and accessories, as well as to the working conditions in the factories they work with.‘Within two to three years, the document will become a sort of a rulebook that Italy will be glad to share with other countries, because fashion is one big family, and it has no boundaries. Together, we can rethink the future of the planet and the fashion world,’ concluded the president of the National 50

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craftsmen and Study NY which faithfully follows its motto ‘Fashion without waste’ by using in its production every scrap of fabric. WEEKEND MAX MARA

PUMA

Chamber for Italian Fashion, Carlo Capasa. According to the same organisation, over the last few years not only the big brands and end customers, but also fashion buyers have begun to take the issue of environmental responsibility seriously. In the last few years the number of buyers who base their choices on factors including the origin and sustainability of the collection’s production has grown from 2% to 30%. As experience shows, those who advocate for ‘green fashion’ are first in line to put their confidence in specialised companies since the production processes of

the eco-friendly factories, as a rule, are the most transparent, so both buyers and final customers can easily track all stages – from the selection of raw materials to the end result of the fully finished product; from the working conditions at the factory to the data on reduced consumption of power and water. Among these brands is the fashion house Behno, which is trying to change people’s perceptions of the label ‘Made in India’, and emphasises the masterful weaving skills involved and theongoing of improvement in working conditions; the brand Voz which promotes the traditional crafts of South America, offering its customers hand-made clothes and accessories; Laura Strambi who uses only natural materials and dyes for her collection, which consists entirely of handmade pieces; Studio 189 which brings to the masses fashion items handmade in Africa by local STUDIO 189

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THE DEVIL’S IN THE DETAIL SHOES, BAGS, GLOVES AND OTHER ACCESSORIES HAVE THE POWER TO TRANSFORM A SIMPLE OUTFIT INTO A STYLE STATEMENT. DISCOVER THE NEW TRENDS IN THESE IMPORTANT ADDITIONS TO YOUR OUTFIT — AS SEEN IN THE FIRST FALL COLLECTIONS

THE PERFECT MATCH

To match a bag with a suit is nothing new, but the coming season takes perfect matching to a new level. Stewart Vevers for Coach, Christopher Kane for his namesake brand, and Pablo Coppola for Bally, along with lots of other first-class international designers have filled their collections with bags that not only repeat the colour but even the patterns and prints of clothes. Of course, you can't have a special accessory for every single dress in their wardrobe, but at least one perfect combination is a must-have, especially since each garment also looks fabulous without its original match.

Coach Pre-Fall 2016

Bally Pre-Fall 2016

BLUE STOCKING

Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini Pre-Fall 2016

Tight-fitting stocking boots and equestrianism-inspired thighlength leather boots are riding high this season. Coloured smooth leather models, as seen at Valentino, look great paired with multicoloured mini dresses that might have been worn by 60s fashionistas; soft slouchy corduroy boots match sportswear by MM6, while high lace-up leather boots naturally complement the 70s-inspired looks in Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini. Contrary to the stereotype, these shoes can look serene and exquisite. Still, stylists do not recommend wearing them with tight-fitting clothes: better to opt for sweeping skirts or straight formal dresses.

YOUR PACK OF CHOICE The backpack has long been more than a sports style trademark. Today, this bag is perfectly suitable not only for a camping trip, but also in the office or at a party. Practicality and style — these are its main advantages. Understated leather models, such as those in the collection by Jason Wu, are the perfect replacement for the formal leather handbag, the sequined Sonia Rykiel backpack will complete a disco party look, while the riveted suede Versace backpack will look equally stylish either in the everyday urban environment, on a trip, or at an event.

Valentino Pre-Fall 2016 52

THE BAGS OF THE SEASON

Emilio Pucci Pre-Fall 2016

Versace The collection from Italian house Donatella Versace contains a few contenders for the title of ‘It Bag’ of the season. Our stand-out piece is a leather bag in blue, from pastel shade to a deep blueberry.

Sonia Rykiel Pre-Fall 2016 Boss Pre-Fall 2016

Jason Wu Pre-Fall 2016

Emporio Armani Pre-Fall 2016

Versace

Emilio Pucci Massimo Giorgetti makes his first attempt at creating the bag everybody wants to have. His models for Emilio Pucci are spacious, with a retro edge, but certainly practical. You’ll be able to fit in whatever you need – even if it is for an outing to the country or a weekend break.

Versace Pre-Fall 2016 53

Versace Pre-Fall 2016

Boss Jason Wu revives the classic form and understated design of the brand’s main bestseller, the Bespoke bag. In the Pre-Fall collection, the mini-size model is interpreted in a number of colours: classic black, brick-red, and pale blue.

Burberry Pre-fall 2016

Emilio Pucci Pre-fall 2016

Mugler Pre-fall 2016

THE BLUE LAGOON

Givenchy Pre-fall 2016

Thomas Maier Pre-fall 2016

INVENTED BY LEVI STRAUSS IN THE 19TH CENTURY, JEANS CONQUERED THE WORLD IN THE 70S, AND IN THE COMING SEASON THEY HIT THE RUNWAYS AGAIN It is no use arguing: jeans have never been out of fashion. Still, it has been a while since prominent designers were so unanimous in bringing denim to the fashion pedestal. This season’s collections are filled with jeanswear and almost all of them have one thing in common: it’s the total look. Though the combination of a denim top with a denim bottom deemed to be mauvais ton just a couple of seasons ago, this season the priorities change. Double denim is at the peak of popularity, and not just for street clothes anymore. The buttoned skirt and matching jacket by Thomas Maier are perfect office attire, while Mulger and Burberry's sets are intended for parties. Affirming their place as true classics, Belstaff’s jeans go perfectly with an understated coat and a white shirt. Stonewashing depends on the garment’s purpose: the more formal the outfit is, the darker, and the fewer details and decorative elements. Riccardo Tisci in his pre-fall collection introduced a denim capsule presented by Russian model Irina Shayk, who became the collection’s testimonial. Simple designs, classic cuts, overalls and cloaks, straight-leg jeans and riveted jackets – these are the line's key elements. Here the overall, being a standard uniform of mechanics 56

Text: Anastasia Khvatova

Belstaff Pre-fall 2016

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Carven Pre-fall 2016

Valentino Pre-fall 2016

Sonia Rykiel Pre-fall 2016

BUYER MAGAZINE

See By Chloé Pre-fall 2016

Gucci Pre-fall 2016

Style tips 1) 2) 3)

Blue jeans go perfectly with brown footwear. Pair skinny jeans with brown ankle boots and boyfriend jeans with oxblood red wedges. This fall, high waisted jeans rather than low rise ones are on the top of the waves: the high waistline is well up to date. A row of brass buttons is perfect as a retro detail: buttoned A-line skirts or high rise jeans with decorative fly buttons are reminiscent of the 70s and the 90s simultaneously.

Victoria Victoria Beckham Pre-fall 2016

and woodcutters, acquires a new air: it looks elegant and feminine – not a hint of masculinity. If the idea of double denim is accepted unanimously, the designers’ opinion on cuts and silhouettes of the jeanswear is very much divided. So, guided by their favourite labels, devotees of Givenchy, Mugler and Carven will choose super-tight skinny jeans, followers of Belstaff and See by Chloé will find versions bearing a striking resemblance to boyfriend jeans, while Burberry’s, Gucci’s and Tommy Hilfiger’s fans will wear bellbottoms inspired by the 70s. Talking of the 70s, renewed interest in that bohemian decade is apparent not only in the cuts but also in the decorations of the jeanswear. Embroidery and appliques became the keynote ideas of the sets created by Julie de Libran for Sonia Rykiel, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino and Massimo Giorgetti for Emilio Pucci. So, when choosing your new pair for the coming fall, remember that the jeanswear of today is not only an everyday uniform but a style of its own: sexy but not immodest, contemporary, but with an eye to the past, sporty but still timeless; no wonder jeans have long become classic.

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TARIK EDIZ WINS RUSSIAN BEAUTIES’ HEARTS INTERVIEW: Elisaveta Lavrentieva PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

EUGENIA KIM, THE OWNER OF THE RUSSIAN BOUTIQUE CHAIN TARIK EDIZ, TELLS US HOW THE BRAND’S DRESSES HAVE MANAGED TO WIN THE HEARTS OF THOUSANDS OF WOMEN IN SUCH A SHORT TIME

Polina Oganicheva

Marina Kim, Tarik Ediz, Eugenia Kim, Ekaterina Odintsova

Eugenia, you are the official representative of Tarik Ediz brand in Russia. Why did you choose to work with this brand of evening dress specifically? First introduced in 1997, today the brand is represented in 80 countries, from the US to Japan, Brazil to Australia. Highquality design, including handmade items, and a wide price range, starting from exclusive haute couture dresses and finishing with affordable models, make Tarik Ediz attractive to a very wide audience. And from a personal perspective, I could not resist the charm of their dresses when I first saw them in real life. Did your expectations pay off? Today I can safely say that yes, they did. Russian women love Tarik Ediz’s striking but unfussy and tasteful designs. All our dresses offer beautiful fits, allowing customers to select the right model for any figure, together with attractive prices. Did the brand take root in Russian soil easily? Our Moscow boutique opened in September 2014. It was not the easiest time, since the ruble was losing ground and the citizens were all tightening their belts. Yet no matter what happens in the world, people cannot do without holidays, beauty, and positivity. They will still marry, rejoice in the birth of children and success at work, celebrate anniversaries. Men will always admire stylish and elegant ladies, and women will never give up their main weapon, beauty. This is especially true of Russian women whose desire and talent for being beautiful is in their genes.

Aurora

58 Yasmina Muratovich

How is the Tarik Ediz distribution network organised in Russia? We are the exclusive distributor of the brand in Russia. In addition to the flagship store in Moscow, we have a showroom in Krasnodar. Plans for boutiques in St. Petersburg and Kazan are also afoot. In addition, we cooperate with dozens of Moscow salons selling evening and wedding dresses, where you can also buy Tarik Ediz dresses. Are there any celebrity fans of the brand? Yes, Alsu, Laysan Utiasheva, Olga Orlova, Zara, Valeria, Aurora, Anna Sedokova, Yekaterina Volkova, Anna Nevskaya, Elena Kuletskaya, Alisa Tolkacheva, Victoria Lopyreva, Ekaterina Guseva have chosen Tarik Ediz dresses to shine on stage and at various social events. We are proud of helping them to highlight their beauty. Zara even named our brand among her favourite manufacturers for concert outfits. What is your brand promotion strategy? Do you promote yourself or do you use PR agencies? Many brand promoters stretch the truth when saying that they can cope on their own. But everyone knows that successful brands and designers are all helped by PR services, and we are not an exception. We collaborate with the creative agency PR TREND. Its charismatic founder Ekaterina Odintsova is herself a big fan of our dresses, so that in many respects our union is a match made in heaven. For example, we organised the debut fashion show of the brand as part of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in fall 2015 together. But there is another truth, too: if a brand does not have that special appeal, if its creators have no talent, no PR agency will be able to fix that.

PR TREND – креативное агентство-бутик Екатерины Одинцовой, деятельность которого основывается на индивидуальном подходе к каждому клиенту/ PR TREND offers a full circle of PR and communication services for Russian and international clients УСЛУГИ АГЕНТСТВА Работа со СМИ Организация мероприятий VIP-менеджмент Предоставление площади в шоу-руме для коллекций Заказчика для работы со СМИ и celebrities Digital PR Медиапланирование

/ / / / / / / /

OUR SERVICES: Day to day work with press Event- management VIP – management Day to day work with stylist and celebrities at our showroom Digital PR Мediaplanning

Наши контакты/ Our contacts: ekaterina@prtrendrussia.com / elena@prtrendrussia.com/ info@prtrendrussia.com www.prtrendrussia.com

Versace Pre-Fall 2016

Mary Katrantzou Pre-Fall 2016

Fendi Pre-Fall 2016

FAB FUR

WHAT IS WINTER WITHOUT A FUR COAT? THE PRE-FALL COLLECTIONS, SYMBOLISING THE TRANSITION FROM SCORCHING SUMMER TO CHILLY AUTUMN, ARE PACKED WITH WINTER WARMERS, AND LUXURIOUS FURS AND SILKS ARE ABUNDANT AS NEVER BEFORE

The times when fur was considered a grand statement in itself are over. Nowadays fashion designers treat it as a blank canvas — dying it a variety of unusual colours, decorating it with appliques and embroideries, and striving to bring it down from its pedestal to spread its charms among the youth. There’s a hint of nostalgia for the 60s and 70s in next autumn’s silhouettes: bright fur ponchos, A-line fur coats with geometrical prints, and bulky jackets. But all of these possess a twist of sparkling individuality, with Alessandro Michele decorating fur coats with appliques of the sun and moon with beautiful flowers blossoming on jackets at Fendi and with Missoni coats that come alive with embellished strips. But even without such special accents, brightly coloured furs are the darlings of the season, with Versace, Michael Kors, Bottega Veneta and a dozen other brands all offering their own interpretations of the bold winter to come. The key volume Luxurious classic coats of long-pile fur are on trend again. Fox, beaver, marten, and 60

Text: Anastasia Khvatova

The bright choice

Carven Pre-Fall 2016

Rochas Pre-Fall 2016

Missoni Pre-Fall 2016

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Burberry Pre-Fall 2016

Blumarine Pre-Fall 2016

Alberta Ferretti Pre-Fall 2016

Emilio Pucci Pre-Fall 2016

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nutria furs, gorgeous oversize silhouettes and even patchwork fur coats – there’s a vast variety of models to choose from. Designers are letting these gorgeous pieces speak for themselves, paring back embellishments and letting the natural colours and lush textures of the fur shine through. Christopher Bailey in his collection for Burberry uses several natural tints of fox fur to create an oversized fur coat that combines classic and contemporary urban styles. The Lanvin and Emilio Pucci garments cut a slimmer sihouette: lavish furs cinched in at the waist with leather belts for a figure-flattering look. Alexander McQueen presents lush short fur coats, which pair perfectly with dramatic floor-length gowns. Accentuating details A fur scarf, boa or tippet is a great accessory for any evening ensemble. The careless elegance of a fur stole flung over the shoulders harks back to the golden era of the Dream Factory when actresses paired long satin gowns with their inseparable companions, fur boas. Nowadays, you needn’t be rocking the red carpet to wear furs. J Mendel’s collection features a fox fur scarf that perfectly sets off an elegant trouser ensemble, the mink palatine by Rochas looks equally gorgeous either with a lingerie-style attire or a casual dress, while designers from Carven added fur accents to a youthful bomber jacket and tight trousers, creating a new street-style classic.

Style tips 1)

2) 3)

Lush half-length fur coats pair perfectly with leather trousers and pointed ankle boots. Play up the contrast: a lingerie-style dress and a fur stole are a winning combination for your night out. A broad leather belt helps accentuate your figure even if you wear a long-pile fur coat.

Lanvin Pre-Fall 2016

Photo: courtesy of Luisaviaroma.com press office

S T R AT E G I E S

'The time factor plays a crucial role, and you need to make decisions as quickly as possible, which sometimes leads to neglecting certain aspects, ignoring certain risks. The most important thing is to be first: this is what brings s u c c e s s .' Nicola Antonelli, Luisaviaroma.com

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DIGITAL POWER ROBERTA BENTELER, FOUNDER AND CEO OF ONLINE FASHION RETAILER AVENUE 32, SHARES THE FORMULA THAT LIES BEHIND THE FAST GROWTH AND THE INTERNATIONAL SUCCESS OF HER BUSINESS. BASED IN LONDON, THE COMPANY SHIPS ALL OVER THE GLOBE AND IS FAMOUS FOR HAVING A STRONG AND INDIVIDUAL SELECTION OF EMERGENT DESIGNERS AND ESTABLISHED BRANDS INTERVIEW: Galia Milovzorova

edit we bring to them, we cannot allow any of these points to be compromised. How do you define your target audience? Are you planning to expand it and how? The Avenue 32 customer is a fashionconscious female, aged from her mid-20s to 30+. Our audience ranges from those who are well-versed in luxury shopping and seeking items of the highest quality to fashion-savvy shoppers who are keen to discover unique pieces from the latest emerging designers that Avenue 32 has to offer. Largely from the UK and US, our customer base also spreads through mainland Europe, the Middle East and Australia. We plan to continue expanding throughout these regions, through targeted digital marketing campaigns, a seamless delivery and returns process and a new improved website.

Is this your first e-commerce project? If so what were the main problems you ran into developing it? How did you solve these problems? Yes, I set up Avenue 32 at the age of 26 without any prior experience in e-commerce. So we hired an experienced project management firm to guide us through the initial stages. The main problems I would say were estimating the costs correctly and meeting deadlines, as there are always unexpected challenges where technology is involved.

Is researching new designers important for you and how is it done in your company? What are the essential qualities you look for? Researching new designers is incredibly important for Avenue 32 as we have such a strong heritage and DNA in finding emerging designers and working with them to become commercial successes. When sourcing for the site each brand has to bring a unique point of view, have design integrity and be of the highest quality. As our customers really trust the 64

Which is the best way for you to receive feedback from your customers? We are fortunate to enjoy communicating with customers on many levels, depending on their preferences and the nature of their enquiry. We find that for styling advice customers prefer telephone contact. This facilitates a more conversational, informal interaction which customers enjoy. Stock availability enquiries, returns requests or tracking issues are typically done via email to customer services, which remains the most active form of communication. We belong to a third party feedback forum called Trust Pilot which allows customers to leave feedback on their transactional experience: from the item(s) themselves to the gift-wrapping and delivery as well as the service they received.

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RESEARCHING NEW DESIGNERS IS INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT FOR AVENUE 32 AS WE HAVE SUCH A STRONG HERITAGE AND DNA IN FINDING EMERGING DESIGNERS AND WORKING WITH THEM TO BECOME COMMERCIAL SUCCESSES. WHEN SOURCING FOR THE SITE EACH BRAND HAS TO BRING A UNIQUE POINT OF VIEW, HAVE DESIGN INTEGRITY AND BE OF THE HIGHEST QUALITY

Social media (Instagram, Facebook & Twitter) has also increasingly become an effective and immediate means of corresponding, although the dialogue in these cases is more generic, relating to likes and dislikes as well as recommendations and feedback. So we do not have one best way of receiving feedback but as we do not have stores we always love to hear a voice on the other end of the phone; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the closest we get to meeting a customer! What is your approach to staff? What are the essential skills you look for? The Avenue 32 team is the biggest asset we have; they are what makes the machine work. Essentially team members need to be highly skilled, motivated, not afraid to take initiative and very importantly, they need to have great interpersonal skills, as communication amongst the team is key! What are the latest developments in the e-commerce market and how do you stay up to date? The e-commerce market is constantly changing, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important to stay up to date by keeping on top of the latest advances and technologies that are released. There is a running theme of personalisation and offering a customer what they want, when they want it, no matter what device they are on. Being able to create an entirely bespoke shopping experience for each and every customer that visits the site is a great end goal to have. We are moving towards this through personalised visual merchandising and content for different audiences and it will become more of a focus in the future. 65

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THE AVENUE 32 TEAM IS THE BIGGEST ASSET WE HAVE; THEY ARE WHAT MAKES THE MACHINE WORK. ESSENTIALLY TEAM MEMBERS NEED TO BE HIGHLY SKILLED, MOTIVATED, NOT AFRAID TO TAKE INITIATIVE AND VERY IMPORTANTLY, THEY NEED TO HAVE GREAT INTERPERSONAL SKILLS, AS COMMUNICATION AMONGST THE TEAM IS KEY

How did you develop your shipping strategy? Did it work out well from the beginning or did you have to improve it? Our shipping strategy has evolved organically to meet growing demand and expectations rather than being established from day one. We ship globally from a dedicated warehouse in the UK. We make use of an integrated duty calculator on the site, which predetermines import duties for the over 125 countries we ship to at checkout. This dramatically improves customs clearance and despite shipping from the UK we are able to provide ‘next day’ service to the USA and typically 2-3 days for most countries in the rest of the world.

the competition. It’s essential to have your own voice and opinion, something we achieve through our editorials and content. Secondly, our customer is intelligent and interested in fashion, and so I want to give her more than just an online shopping destination, I want her to be inspired too! Via our shoots, features and interviews we can offer her a more rounded experience, I think she values and deserves that. Do you see growth in orders from mobile users? How do you think customer

How do you engage with your customers? How do you use channels such as newsletters and social networks? Our email marketing strategy allows us to communicate with our customers multiple times a week. Our emails feature ‘how to’ wardrobe ideas for the latest trends and styles, as well as editorial pieces to educate our audience further on new products and designers that feature on the Avenue. We are also active on social media platforms including Instagram, Facebook and Twitter – all allow us to create a wider sense of the Avenue 32 brand, our values and product offering, through a range of posts focused on lifestyle and fashion content. What is the importance of preparing unique content for your customers, such as articles, interviews, trend reports or fashion editorials? I see this as a two-fold thing. Firstly, in a saturated market, unique content is a vital tool for setting Avenue 32 apart from 67

behaviour will change in the near future? The number of orders from mobile users has grown by over 100% year on year at Avenue 32. There used to be an understanding that customers browsed on mobile and purchased on desktop but this has definitely changed. Purchasing on mobile will only continue to grow into the future. People are much savvier now and expect the experience of the brand to be the same, no matter what device they are on, whether that’s through product, services or content offered.

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ONE STEP AHEAD WE ASKED TOP FASHION RETAIL EXPERTS HOW TO MOVE RUSSIAN MULTI-BRAND BOUTIQUES TO A HIGHER LEVEL IN CONDITIONS OF CRISIS AND COMPETITION ON THE MARKET

ROBERTA VALENTINI Top Italian buyer and owner of Penelope fashion group, Brescia Actually, a universal recipe for success in this kind of business does not exist. It all depends on our individuality and whom we want to see as our target audience. The most important thing is to choose your own strategy and follow it. As for me, I pay a lot of attention to my shop atmosphere â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I like to fill it with very particular things. My clients should feel comfortable and interested. Certainly, staff selection and training are important too. I do not know the situation in Russia well because I have only been to Moscow, but during those few days I visited some multibrand boutiques and I liked the way their windows were decorated, their variety and common design. Those shops had a unique style and that is very important. It is too difficult to compete with big malls and I am not sure that it is worth it. It has more effect if you are oriented on your client, if you spare no time in looking for new brands. You can do this anywhere. As for me, apart from European fashion capitals I also love Tokyo, but actually I find many amazing brands while travelling around Italy. And, of course, today it is so important to develop e-commerce channels to expand the audience and reach new markets. 68

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BOUTIQUE SOHO, ROSTOV-ON-DON.

LEV ELFIMOV Brand manager of Soho boutique, Rostov-on-Don It’s almost impossible to find new clients in this difficult period, that’s why it is better to work with existing ones. To start, we've increase what we’re offering, from the appearance of new brands to new goods from existing ones. Of course, staff communication is also very important. Our staff are always courteous and helpful. We have an event almost every week, usually presentations of our new partners. We never invite many people but we organise little parties where our clients can talk in a cosy atmosphere. Guests always buy more in these situations. And we have been offering extra services, such as fitting a garment or dry cleaning, for a long time. It does not matter if our client bought the garment in our boutique or in another shop. The extra service is not always free, because it depends on the complexity of the work needed, but it saves the client time: he just brings us his item and we do our best to fix it.

BOUTIQUE SOHO, ROSTOV-ON-DON.

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NEW FRONTIERS OF BUYING

Content: created with sharing collaboration of Buyer, for illustration purposes only

AS DIGITAL DEVELOPMENT TAKES ALL THE PROCESSES IN THE FASHION SYSTEM BY STORM, A TECHNOLOGY CREATED TO EMPOWER BUYERS IS IN THE MAKING. WE SPOKE TO VIA DEL BUYER, A PROJECT THAT AIMS TO TAKE THE RESEARCH AND ORDERING PROCESS TO THE NEXT LEVEL.

The buying process has not seen any drastic changes in recent times. The workflow starts with the planning of a seasonal brand mix followed by a visit to one or two fashion capitals to view the collections and place orders. Though the buyer follows more or less the same steps, the market has changed quite significantly. The competition has increased, the craze for brands has calmed down, and customers have become more educated. The tough market conditions have created obstacles that only the strongest retailers have been able to overcome and, sometimes, even use to their advantage.

What makes a buyer stand apart from competition? It is a mix of decisions regarding the marketing strategy, the scouting of the most interesting collections, and the representation of goods in the store. But the key to it all is differentiation. It is no longer enough to stick to safe bestselling products. Today you need to research the unique pieces that will make customers connect emotionally. Encouraged by an open market and new online tools, groups of emerging fashion designers have begun to

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make their mark on the industry. Nowadays, almost every buyer understands the importance of introducing new fresh names and products in their store. Research has become fundamental and is often carried out online or when travelling, and always takes up a good deal of the buyerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time.

of the aims is to optimise time, both in terms of travelling and online research. In fact, the closed platform lets the buyers browse through latest season lookbooks, even before they are available online, or, for instance, work with international designers that would otherwise be out of reach.

In the meantime, the wholesale industry has seen innovations, with new programmes used for managing production, orders and inventory, and even the fairs are slowly becoming more digitalised. As such, the buyer has benefited from these to a minimal extent, as all of the existing services are mainly aimed at satisfying the needs of brands. The buyer somehow remains a figure on the sidelines, yet plays a strong role in the industry, being the one who purchases and brings fashion from the brands to the people.

The website is inspired by final customer online stores where one can see what a product looks and feels like with only one click. The full details on collections are complemented by brands distribution lists, dates of deliveries, price ranges and even social and press feeds. Also, the editorial part of the platform will present trend reports and share other buyersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; advice, in order to provide additional help with selection.

A new project that is based on the needs of buyers has been created. Via Del Buyer is a wholesale platform, which, as its name suggests, gives the buyer all the tools needed to research, place orders, and even search through ready and available goods if they require stock immediately. One

Preparations are being made to launch the website in May 2016. The starting point is a vision of helping the buyers with their workflow, while also being prepared to receive their input in order to build a platform that is actually useful and that makes the experience simpler and more satisfying.

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FALL/WINTER 2016/17 TRENDS

Photo: courtesy of Trendsquire

BEING A LEADER MEANS BEING ONE STEP AHEAD OF CUSTOMERS. SPECIALLY FOR OUR READERS WE ASKED TREND BUREAU TRENDSQUIRE TO TELL US ABOUT THE GUIDELINES IN WOMEN’S, MEN’S AND KIDS’ FASHION FOR THE NEW FALL/WINTER SEASON

WOMEN’S WARDROBE The main colours are all shades of grey and other neutrals. Historical dress with all its details such as lace, collars, cuffs and a nipped-in waist is on trend now. Large exotic flowers, leaves, and plant details in many bright colours are the most typical designs in terms of ornaments. Avoid patent leather accessories, a ‘rough shine’ is more relevant.

10 TRENDS OF THE SEASON: 1. Super wide-leg high-waisted trousers covering shoes. 2. Below-the-knee wool coats with a dropped shoulder. Colours: light brown, black or rich complex colours such as blue-green, orange-red or mustard. 3. Super long and heavy knitted scarves draped to the knee or even lower. 4. Asymmetric feminine dresses with flounces and lace. 5. Wraparound skirts worn over another skirt, dress or trousers. 6. Silk printed robes with belts worn as a dress. 7. Knee-length or longer floral printed dresses straight from your mother or grandmother’s wardrobe. 8. Straight or flared wide-leg culottes made of wool or velvet. 9. Scottish tartan jackets. 10. Clothing featuring fabrics that seem covered with living organisms: mosses, coral etc. 72

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MEN’S WARDROBE Clean lines and monochrome combinations are imperative Monocolour suits may be alternated with a set of similar shades such as black, graphite and dark grey. At the same time, pastel colours, usually used for women’s and kids’ clothes, have become a must-have for men’s wardrobes too. A head-to-toe delicate look with a detail of rich colour is ideal. Even if your customers are not so brave, they will still come into your store having seen such contrasting colour images in your shop windows.

10 TRENDS OF THE SEASON: 1. 2. 3. 4.

5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Layered clothing. T-shirt, shirt, vest, cardigan, jacket, shorts over trousers – each item a different length and worn together so that every layer shows. Elongated fitted silhouettes for shirts and jackets. Straight short trousers, not stretchy, but maybe turned-up, for the ‘overgrown schoolboy’ look. Classic suit trousers of neutral grey or black as an alternative to jeans. They may be worn with jumpers, t-shirts or casual shirts. Sneakers or loafers are perfect for completing the image, not formal shoes. Extensive colourful and childish pop-art print design is everywhere: ranging from shirts and coats to shoes and accessories. Black-and-white prints coupled with another ornament or used as a particular emphasis on black clothes. Vintage. Worn-in fabrics with romantic embroidery or paint splatters for a second-hand vibe. Wide-leg extra length trousers with front pleats and creases are perfectly coupled with tucked in shirts. They could be either low-rise trousers, also called hipsters, or mid-rise trousers. Patch pockets: big or small but always square. These suit every type of clothing, even the classics. Large botanic ornaments: flowers, leaves and other plant details.

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10 TRENDS OF THE SEASON: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

KIDS’ WARDROBE

Ballerina style: lush skirts, quiet colours, slender waists and light fabrics. Geometric ethnic ornaments, contrast embroidery, natural dyes. Simple layered silhouettes. Turndown jabot collar blouses. Harlequin suits or trousers – light material, with printed design or tailored rhomboid or triangular flaps. Sweaters with pompoms or many knitted ornaments. Dresses or vyshyvankas (old East Slavic traditional embroidered women's shirt), also knee-length dressed with defined waist and ascot collars. Fur coats. White shirts with print design like old Soviet propaganda posters. Black printed sweatshirts or hoodies.

One unconventional feature of the season is the abundance of black, not usually typical for kids’ collections. Total black can be coupled with black-and-white print design. Ornaments have become simpler and more abstract. Clean cuts without extra darts are now widespread in kids’ collections. Slim silhouettes with voluminous details such as pompoms and jabot collars have also become very popular. And outfits decorated with faux fur, lace, tinsel, tassels etc., in contrast with simple ‘pajama’ style, are also on trend.

All material taken from analytic online platform Trendsquire, the first Russian trend bureau. The trend bureau analyses and makes forecasts of visual fashion and design trends in combination with pattern of behaviour changes and customers’ socio-cultural vectors. Trendsquire publishes special books about fashion trends for buyers twice a year. This online platform for design, marketing and retail professionals in fashion industry has been running since February 2016. More information at www.trendsquire.ru.

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AT THE CROSSROADS OF TRADITION AND HIGH-TECH INTERVIEW: Marta Topolskaya PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

NICOLA ANTONELLI, PROJECT MANAGER OF FAMOUS ONLINE BOUTIQUE LUISAVIAROMA.COM TALKS ABOUT ITS HISTORY, PRESENT AND FUTURE You’d be hard pushed to find an Italian retailer who better symbolises truly global success than Luisa Via Roma. This name, or rather the website address luisaviaroma.com is known to fashionistas all over the world, from Australia to the US, Europe to Russia. The small hat boutique opened in 1930 in Florence by a French immigrant Louise Zhaken with the support of her Italian husband Lido Pankonezi would probably have remained a modest family business if control hadn't passed to their grandson Andrea at the end of the 60s. NICOLA ANTONELLI Project manager of Luisaviaroma.com

His perfect taste, fantastic intuition and business acumen are plain to see in his choice of collections (including, for example, the then totally unknown Kenzo), and his

anticipation of business trends in fashion retail. LVR became a pioneer in the field of online commerce in the world of fashion: launching the website in 1999. Today it enjoys 5 million visits per month and is considered the world's largest internet fashion store. The Financial Times called it a ‘fashion paradise’ because its clients can browse more than 600 collections, including famous brands as well as talented new designers. In addition, Luisa Via Roma hosts numerous international fashion events such as the Fashion & Technology Summit or Firenze4Ever, the festival for bloggers from all over the world.

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How did the transformation of a small boutique in Florence into one of the world's largest trendsetters happen? It happened very organically. The key element was the gradual introduction of digital culture into the daily life of our company, without putting too much pressure on the organisation. We took it step by step: our first site was designed primarily to help those who were customers of LVR. Thus the process of growth was painless, as it was proportionate to what the company could actually manage. We chose a similar path in our approach to style: for the first e-commerce purchases we made the same collections as those for the boutique, because both had the same customers. Later on, when our project became accessible to the wider public, our buying policies changed in such a way as to meet the needs of the new target audience. But how was the idea to bring Luisa Via Roma online born in the first place? LVR becoming an internet project was a natural evolutionary process for our business, which, although located in Florence, has long been international. A significant proportion of our customers were already foreign, and they were originally shopping using remote offline sales. The only thing we had to BOUTIQUE LUISA VIA ROMA FLORENCE

do was to introduce new technological solutions to transform what could be called o-commerce (offline commerce) into the more technologically advanced e-commerce. What difficulties have you encountered? First of all, there were difficulties of a technical nature. Do not forget that we started in 1999, when standard platforms for selling online simply did not exist, nor any of the associated services, so we had to create everything ourselves. Other problems (which are not completely solved even today) were related to finding employees who were wellqualified to work on and develop our online project. How do the online and offline services of your company work together? They complement each other perfectly. Following the logic of multichannel marketing, we need our Florence boutique to make everything we offer in the virtual world real and tangible. Of course, whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on offer in the boutique is limited to its physical capacities! However, there is a touch screen, where the customer can choose from our full range of products, and thanks to a specially created service they can even try and buy things which are not currently on display in the store.

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From what is usually written about your company it seems that all your projects have always been a huge success. Is this impression true? If you only looked at the results of our work, it would be easy to think that every decision, every choice, has always been correct. But in fact not everything was this easy! An absolute rule at the heart of every successful web project is this: doing it here and now is much better than waiting and seeking perfection. This means that the time factor plays a crucial role, and you need to make decisions as quickly as possible, which sometimes leads to neglecting certain aspects, ignoring certain risks. The most important thing is to be first: this is what brings success. Of course, this approach inevitably entails mistakes, but for an online company even mistakes can be valuable, if you manage to respond quickly and to learn useful lessons. One example of an unsuccessful decision was our attempt to create videos to illustrate the items. Several years ago, there was a tendency to give users the fullest possible picture of what they were buying. In that context, it seemed to us absolutely necessary to provide each item with a corresponding video, which seemed to be the best way to present it. However, we soon realised that the efforts that were required to produce videos were completely disproportionate to the life cycle of the goods on sale and to the benefits that our customers would extract from it. This is a good example of an unfortunate decision, which led to a waste of human and financial resources that could have been used in other projects. What advice would you give to those who have not yet embarked on e-commerce? Are there any best practices? What difficulties might newcomers encounter along the way, and what is the best way to overcome them? Our main advice is to start as soon as possible! Even if in many areas (such as fashion, tourism, etc.), the market is already quite saturated, in others there is still a lot of room for development. The

BOUTIQUE LUISA VIA ROMA FLORENCE

most effective method is a consistent and thorough implementation of digital culture in the company's working methods. Often this very important aspect is largely underestimated. Many companies launch their internet business using the services of external providers and servers and fully entrusting them with the whole process. This is a perfectly understandable decision, since it promises your e-commerce project a quick and painless start, but at the same time leads to the situation that the online project remains an outsider, a kind of

foreign body to the company. And then, when the project begins to grow and to expand, the company, not having sufficient know-how to self-manage, remains â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;chainedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; to the external suppliers. Regarding investments, you need a truly surgical precision here. Today, in comparison with the traditional marketing of the past, digital technologies help companies to reach their target audience with much less scattering of financial resources. In

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that I have already mentioned. At this event LVR organises meetings between those playing leading roles in the virtual fashion community, often for the first time! It gives them the opportunity to exchange views on the trends of the season and on other burning topics. In addition, we have many other projects which are constantly evolving. This year, before the start of Pitti Uomo, we held another iteration of the Fashion and Technology Summit. This event was specially created for in-depth discussions on the newest digital technologies used in the world of fashion. All the details about our initiatives are available through our internet channels. addition, there are quite a lot of open source platforms, which allow businesses to start online projects at a very reasonable cost. Luisa Via Roma, in addition to its commercial activities, also organises events such as Firenze4ever. Why did you decide to do this? And what are your future plans? The idea of launching Firenze4ever emerged during the Pitti Uomo show from the same understanding that we need to unite real and virtual worlds

What do you think is the secret of Luisa Via Roma's success? What would be your advice to fashion retailers in helping them to overcome the current crisis and to build a successful business? Well, there is no one secret! But there is a set of factors which have all contributed to our success. Of course, being pioneers gave us a significant advantage over our competitors, but the most important aspect, I believe, is that we never â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;rest on our laurelsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. We

continue to work every day, every hour, and at the same pace as on the very first day. No idea, innovation, or trend that could potentially bring us success remains unheeded. I can give one piece of general advice, which is to pay close attention to the internet. That's where all the new ideas are born nowadays, and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s where you can find new opportunities.

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CREATING NEW POSSIBILITIES JUST OVER A YEAR AGO, AN ORGANISATION APPEARED IN RUSSIA THE LIKES OF WHICH CANNOT BE FOUND ANYWHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD. ELENA BUGRANOVA, THE BRAINS BEHIND AND PRESIDENT OF THE RUSSIAN BUYERS’ UNION, TALKS ABOUT WHAT INSPIRED HER TO CREATE THE ORGANISATION THAT HAS, IN JUST A FEW MONTHS, UNITED UNDER ITS UMBRELLA THOUSANDS FROM PRACTICALLY EVERY LARGE CITY IN RUSSIA

Elena, who participates in the Russian Buyers’ Union, and what are the organisation’s objectives? At the moment, members of our union include owners and buyers for multibrand clothing boutiques (from high-end to mid-level ones) from practically every region of Russia. During this year, we’ve been able to reach 80 of the more than 1000 cities in our country. So now we are intently studying the regions we haven’t yet reached, and we will be actively widening our sphere in the coming years. At the moment, nearly 10,000 buyers are members of our union, and this is a great start. However, our main goal is not the number of participants, but the analysis of what is really happening in the Russian retail market. Buyers are people who determine whether residents of the country can buy particular products in Russian stores. They directly influence what Russians wear because it is buyers who bring famous or entirely new brands to our country. Our union strives to make the work of buyers for multi-brand stores easier, for example we help them selecting interesting brands. Right now in the Russian fashion market there is a huge demand for new and high-quality items at an attractive price. Do you plan to influence the Russian fashion market just through representatives of clothing and shoe stores or do you plan to invite buyers

from other sectors of the fashion industry such as jewellery stores or watch boutiques? During this first stage, we have decided to thoroughly study the shoe and clothing market – men’s, women’s, children’s, fur. In the future we’d like to expand to jewellery and watches, and finally to focus on furniture and interior fashions. This is because the specifics of each of these markets are so different and demand such different approaches that we decided it would be strategically right to divide our work on them into different stages. For example, since the end of 2014, we have been actively consulting Russian buyers on the most profitable partnerships with foreign manufacturers. In the beginning, our organisation did not plan on this sort of activity, but experience showed that buyers first and foremost want practical advice from us, including advice about buying clothes. And so we accommodated them. As a result, just in the month of January, we received around 100 proposals from clothing manufacturers from Italy, France, Germany, Turkey, China, and England. With that amount of work, it becomes pretty difficult to take care of operational matters at the same time. For this reason, it is too soon at this stage of our organisation to throw the large number of representatives from the jewellery, watch, and furniture sectors into the mix as well. 81

ELENA BUGRANOVA Fashion buyer with 20 years’ experience and owner of fashion and interior design boutiques, a beauty centre, a tourist agency and a Russian-Italian publishing house. Elena knows all the peculiarities and challenges of running business between Russia and Europe, as well as the work with the European producers. This deep and versatile experience led Elena to the decision to make her contribution to the development of the Russian fashion market and its role in the world.

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Please tell us about benefits and advantages that Russian buyers gain from participating in your organisation? First of all, in order for the union to help buyers increase their turnover, lower their expenditures, and give their business new momentum, we create privileged conditions for buying merchandise on request. We create an exclusive communication platform for buyers and manufacturers in the fashion sector and form loyalty programmes with union partners – banks, insurance and transportation companies, customs unions, software companies, and others. The Russian Buyers’ Union partners with many government entities – the Ministry of Industry and Trade, the Russian Chamber of Commerce, the Ministry of Culture, the Ministry of Education, and also the Chambers of Commerce of various countries’ embassies accredited in Russia. We are currently formulating a number of propositions for participants in the alliance, all in accordance with buyers’ demands. Since I, myself, am a buyer and an owner of a multi-brand boutique, I understand perfectly what kinds of

support, both commercial and legal, are needed for buyers in the current economic situation. For this reason, we study all the aspects of a buyer’s professional activity very carefully, try to meet their needs as best as possible, organise support for them on a wide range of issues, and offer union participants different approaches to resolving business problems using our consolidation of resources. But first of all, we want to unite Russian buyers

into a strong organisation that will be able, in the future, to influence not only manufacturers, but also logistics operators, customs agencies, banks, and other structures, with the goal of creating more advantageous and sometimes unique business conditions for union participants which in reality could not be created were they to work on their own. Elena, what examples from which countries impressed you when you were

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FIRST OF ALL, WE WANT TO UNITE RUSSIAN BUYERS INTO A STRONG ORGANISATION THAT WILL BE ABLE TO INFLUENCE THE INDUSTRY WITH THE GOAL OF CREATING MORE ADVANTAGEOUS BUSINESS CONDITIONS

thinking about creating the Russian Buyers’ Union? Well, in fact, today there is not one organisation in any country that has the same goals and objectives as ours. At least, if there is I haven’t heard of it. For example, in Italy, there is a Chamber of Buyers with a president and members with whom I have been in contact for many years now. However, they are organised slightly differently there. Only the best boutiques in Italy participate in the chamber, so this means there are only 125 members, all from the luxury sector. We decided that we could cover a lot more boutiques if we divided them into two categories: ‘Best Luxury Stores’ which have their own objectives and level of communication, and ‘Mid (Mid+) Level’. Of course, the representatives from the second sector are a majority in our union. I want to point out that we are talking specifically about multi-brand boutiques since the requirements for those working for a multi-brand store (Aizel, Babochka) is different than single-brand stores (Paul & Shark, Massimo Dutti) which only bring in items from one particular brand. Multi-

brand boutiques, however, are entirely dependent on the creative efforts of the buyers who are constantly looking for new brands and like to experiment.

100 Best Russian Stores’, and opening a temporary showroom exhibit to take place in Moscow at the end of February or the beginning of March.

What does it cost for a buyer to join the union? For buyers from any Russian region, including the Moscow region, membership in the union is free. We are not a commercial organisation, so we offer free consultations and organisational services to multi-brand stores. Our overhead costs are covered by clothing manufacturers who are interested in entering the Russian market and whom we choose very carefully in order to recommend them to union participants. I can’t stress enough that we currently have so many applications from interested parties who wish to get into the Russian clothing and shoe market, but we select only those who, according to our expert opinion, will be interesting to our market population. Our plans for the near future include establishing a special ‘Best Luxury Store’ award, publishing a book entitled ‘The

How much do the requests of regional buyers differ from those of Moscow buyers? Of course Moscow buyers differ from others in that they want to work with brands catering to privileged economic spheres. Requests from regional stores are different, but not significantly so. For example, northern regions require a lot more warm clothing items (down coats, autumn and spring jackets) than southern regions. In terms of brands, there is practically no difference in the requests.

Which region has shown the most interest in the union? So far we cover the central and southern parts of Russia better. In 2016, we will concentrate on attracting union members from eastern and western Siberia, the Altai region, the Ural mountain region, Tatarstan, Bashkiria, and other less wellrepresented areas.

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ANTONIA – A SYNONYM FOR STYLE AND INNOVATION MILAN IS CONSIDERED TO BE ONE OF THE WORLD’S MAIN FASHION CENTRES NOT ONLY BECAUSE OF THE MANY DESIGNERS AND FASHION WEEKS IT'S HOME TO, BUT ALSO THANKS TO THE NUMBER OF STYLISH MULTI-BRAND BOUTIQUES FOUND HERE, WHICH ATTRACT CUSTOMERS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD. ONE OF THE MOST SPECIAL IS ANTONIA, TUCKED AWAY IN VIA CUSANI, 5

In the heart of the bohemian area of Brera you’ll find the ancient Cagnola mansion, which once housed the office of the Austrian commander Joseph Radetzky. Now this elegant building with its beautiful garden has become a ‘palace-boutique’, as it’s called by its owner, famous Italian buyer Antonia Giacinti. A few years ago she and her business partner Maurizio Purificato decided to bring

together assorted items from three small boutiques where women’s and men’s collections and accessories were represented. After the relocation Antonia’s concept did not change, but just enjoyed more splendid surroundings: an ornate ceiling, marble walls and grand arches. History and architecture were merged with fashion, making the boutique a must-visit for all fashion lovers. 84

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Antonia Giacinti thinks the secret of her business success lies in her thorough approach: ‘It is not enough to just look for and select brands. You should be attentive to every detail, such as store decoration, the presentation of items, the way staff communicate with clients. You should never lose sight of any aspect or let it become more important than any other.’ Both world-famous brands and quite new ones are represented in the boutique in Via Cusani. Antonia and Maurizio combine them so well that many clients come there specifically to look for combinations of newer and more established designers’ clothing. The buyers plan to increase the variety on offer, adding young Italian designers’ collections.

With regard to competition with online shops, Antonia has found an optimal solution running an extended online version of her own boutique. It’s not only an e-commerce channel but a whole virtual fashion empire, where you can both change your wardrobe and enjoy a virtual tour of the Cagnola mansion’s trading halls. You can also find out about main trends and world fashion news. There is a special section, ‘Mag’ which is being always updated.

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'DON’T FEAR THE INTERNET'

EKATERINA ODINTSOVA, OWNER OF THE PR TREND AGENCY, FORMER TV HOSTESS AND CLASSIC BEAUTY, COUNTS ON USING ONLINE RESOURCES FOR BRAND PROMOTION

EKATERINA ODINTSOVA She opened the PR Trend agency a few years ago and in this short period it has established itself as a recognised expert in the field of product promotion and organising luxury events, both in Russia and abroad. The agency’s clients include such world famous brands as Pfizer, Mary Kay, Uomo Collezioni, Aldo Coppola and Tarik Ediz.

Many say that the contemporary fashion market is not going through the best of times: compared to the 00s, the demand for cult brands’ clothes has dropped; and it has become popular to mix luxury brands with mass-market ones. Has this situation affected fashion brands’ sales? Yes, it has. According to research conducted by Bain & Company, in 2014 our local luxury market reduced by 18 percent. A few large brands invested a lot in advertising and gained in popularity. It seemed that their leadership was unbeatable. But the world has changed: information has become multichannel. If earlier we learned about brand relevance from several expensive glossy magazines, today’s fashion, to a large extent, is shaped by fashion bloggers, trendsetters, and street style celebrities. Glossy magazines still dominate, though new channels, for example, Instagram, have appeared. It is extremely important that every newly designed item appears on the internet immediately. In promotion, speed is one of the critical factors. Which techniques work best for web promotion? The web presently encompasses at least ten promotion channels, including social media marketing (SMM), YouTube marketing, context advertising, and search engine optimization (SEO). None of them can be deemed the best, and none should be focused upon exclusively. A wise combination of several channels specific for each brand is the safest way to promote. Your agency, PR Trend, works with the world’s fashion industry moguls, such as the footwear giant Stuart Weitzman, as well as with the youngest Russian brands just entering the market. What is the difference in promoting these two very different kinds of client? 86

Our approaches are dramatically different. Celebrities love Stuart Weitzman, so such footwear needs no introduction. But if we’re talking about a young brand, it needs to possess a distinctive, zeitgeisty identity, and some bright outstanding features to catch people’s attention. We can help it receive a well-deserved award, promoting it to as many celebrities as possible – fashionable, forward-thinking ones – and help the brand make star friends. Can Russian brands compete with foreign ones, at least in the Russian market? It’s the high noon of Russian fashion. Our brands have already evolved into full-fledged competitors to international ones. If we examine celebrities’ outfits at social events, over half of them are of domestic origin. Still, our brands yet have not succeeded in the luxury footwear segment – except for Aleksander Siradekian. Other brands cannot attain the top level: their models are good for everyday life while footwear couture intended for celebrity events is represented by just one designer. But I am sure it’s just a beginning! What was the most unusual social event aimed at fashion brand promotion that you’ve organised? Recently we organised a pyjama party – for the promotion of Polina Askeri for Noele, an evening pajamas brand. I cannot say that it was an extraordinary event – our flow of thought was rather predictable. But a pyjama party instead of a usual runway was very effective. A pyjama catwalk would not attract that much attention, while at our show, celebrities jumped on beds, had pillow fights, everybody enjoyed posing for the photographers… The shots spread across mass media very quickly, as they were funny and rather unusual.

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Photo: courtesy of Pitti Immagine press office

EVENTS

' E xc i t i n g p r o j e c t s l a u n c h e d n o w, s u c h a s t h e Tu t o r s h i p project intended for young designers, the agreements with the Discover y Foundation and the Uffizi Galler y and many more â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all of these gives us ever y reason to be optimistic a b o u t t h e f u t u re.' Raffaello Napoleone, Pitti Immagine

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EXCEEDING EXPECTATIONS THE RECORD NUMBER OF BUYERS WHO VISITED THE PITTI UOMO TRADE SHOW THIS YEAR GIVE US HOPE FOR THE IMMINENT RISE OF THE MENSWEAR MARKET, ESPECIALLY IN EUROPEAN COUNTRIES AND THE USA TEXT: Marta Topolskaya PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

In the plethora of international inter-industry trade shows dedicated to men’s fashion, you can hardly find a more prestigious one than Pitti Immagine Uomo. It contains the full range of items that represent the fashion industry of today: from the latest trends to timeless classics, from shirts and ties to suits and outerwear, and from foot- and knitwear to bags and hats.

It all started in the 50s, when the White Hall of the Palazzo Pitti in Florence welcomed the first fashion runway. This was the place and the time that the Pitti Immagine company first originated – aimed at organising events that would popularise Made in Italy fashion, which at that time had just started gaining worldwide fame. Runways and trade shows arranged by Pitti Immagine made Florence

not only a priceless piece of cultural and historical heritage but also a centre for fashion and lifestyle. Today, the Pitti Immagine Pitti Uomo trade show is held twice a year, introducing the best that the Italian and the world fashion industry has to offer to multinational buyers. The latest show, held on January 12-15 2016, was the 89th one. Compared to the previous seasons affected PITTI GENERATION

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PITTI UOMO TRADE SHOW IS HELD TWICE A YEAR, INTRODUCING TO MULTINATIONAL BUYERS THE BEST THAT EITHER THE ITALIAN OR THE WORLD FASHION INDUSTRY HAS TO OFFER

PITTI GENERATION

by the challenging state of the European economy, this time the show broke records regarding the number of exhibits (with 1,219 participating brands) and the number of visitors,

including buyers, trade press journalists, and fashion industry experts. The number of visitors totalled 36,000! The number of buyers who visited the trade show for the four days of its work

alone reached 24,800, 4% higher than the previous year before; 8,800 of them came from abroad (an increase of 2.5%) and 16,000 from Italy (up 5%). ‘We are extremely happy

with the season’s results,’ said Raffaello Napoleone, the managing director of Pitti Immagine, ‘and most of all, with the positive atmosphere that dominated the stands. ‘Apart from the buzz generated by the new collections, there was increased interest in the events beyond the general programme – those that completely filled the city. The exciting projects being launched now, such as the Tutorship project intended for young designers along with the agreements with the Discovery Foundation, Uffizi Gallery, and many more, give us every reason to be optimistic about the future. We are very conscious of the fact that Florence and the Pitti Uomo trade show are taking on great importance for world fashion.’ It should be mentioned that the Russia was in the top twenty countries in terms of the number of buyers present (a total of 182 visited the show) while, quite understandably, their number decreased in terms of percentage. ‘We noticed that there were less buyers from Russia than before,’ said

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Oxana Fedichkina, general director of the Vittorio Emanuele showroom, ‘though the principal players in the market, of course, visited the show. It is unfortunate that the economic situation did not allow smaller retailers to come because, in my opinion, there is a fantastic concentration of trendsetters here, and a great opportunity to really learn about the most fashionable clothing, that is, to understand what we should strive to do.’ A kaleidoscope of trends Coming to Florence, buyers are all looking to find the latest fashion industry offerings in a variety of styles – classic, casual, sporty, or avant-garde. Supporters of the classic style were welcomed at the Pitti Uomo, Make, the

Pop Up Stores, the Latest Fashion Buzz, Eye Pop, and Fashion At Work sections. There, the coat, which has been quite unnecessarily put out to pasture through recent seasons, took centre stage. Coats took many guises: small and neat or flowing and oversized, intentionally tapered with quilted lining. Jackets, practical and universal, specifically intended for indefatigable travellers featured prominently among the outer garments: wrinkleproof, water-resistant, and with lots of convenient pockets. A wide variety of accessories, from traditional briefcases to functional cases for laptops and tablet PCs, were meant to complement them. The abundance of hats on the stands – and on the visitors’ heads was 92

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unexpected for many. The show was also notable for the numerous examples of mixing and intermingling of styles, such as knitwear jackets with traditional British motifs, or soft flannel jackets with elastic thread, or those made of boucle fabric. The military trend was not going to give up its position either: it revealed itself in parkas and military cut jackets. And certainly, the art of craftsmen is always timeless – handcrafted accessories were as popular as ever. Today, innovative

technologies are mixed with classic traditions in the art of dressmaking, in the production of leather accessories, and in knitwear. Connoisseurs of avantgarde trends could find much of interest in the Futuro Maschile, Touch!, l’Altro Uomo, Born in the USA, Unconventional, and Open sections. The look was reminiscent of the American pilgrim fathers’ wardrobe: fur-lined footwear, oversized trousers, denim and wool jacquards, checks and stripes,

TODAY, INNOVATIVE TECHNOLOGIES ARE MIXED WITH CLASSIC TRADITIONS IN THE ART OF DRESSMAKING, IN THE PRODUCTION OF LEATHER ACCESSORIES, AND IN KNITWEAR

ADIDAS ORIGINALS

and vintage-inspired items - trenches, bomber jackets, and parkas. Some signs of gender mixing sometimes appeared in unexpected combinations of classic and sporty, natural and ultratechnological materials, forms and silhouettes, equally appealing to him and to her. This trend was particularly obvious in footwear – timeless moccasins and Derby shoes, rounded toes and thickened soles made in a wide range of sizes – or in the accessories, where backpacks and briefcases were interpreted either as feminine or masculine. Fans of dark style were not forgotten: they could enjoy leather jackets with ample accessories, sneakers and boots of varying heights, and knitwear with cult prints, all in black and silver tones.

Finally, the casual style was presented in the I Play, Urban Panorama, and My Factory sections. Special attention was paid to contemporary weatherproof fabrics combined with natural ones. Neoprene jackets with down filling and those made of stretch fabrics with ultramodern ‘unsewn’ seams and hidden zips, lightweight and warm, were at the peak of popularity. For rain protection, designers and technologists suggested more advanced solutions not only for traditional jackets and trenches but also for headwear and even bags. The choice was broad: water-resistant fabrics, laminated nylon, breathable Gore-Tex insulation, and sophisticated constructions with detachable insulation, 93

which would fully equip you for any type of weather and any location, either in the city or in the open country. Denim and tweed – more common in the military style – were also rethought in a ‘technological’ way, though nostalgic references to the vintage past were still being felt. Urban looks were reminiscent of skin-tight sailor jackets or shooting coats with unstructured details and thermos-pressed appliqués. Slim fit, short tweed jackets, doublesided coats, camouflage, 3D appliqués and graphic details created a casual look, and men had plenty to choose from. Style boundaries are now so vague that different looks can mingle at will and form the most unexpected combinations. Give free scope to your imagination!

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OPTIMISM AND EAGERNESS TO LOOK TO THE FUTURE THE SUCCESS OF THE 82ND PITTI IMMAGINE BIMBO SEASON REAFFIRMED THE LEADING ROLE OF THE FLORENCE EXHIBITION IN THE WORLD OF CHILDREN'S FASHION TEXT: Marta Topolskaya PHOTO: courtesy of press offices IL GUFO

Another Pitti Immagine Bimbo exhibition, one of the key events related to children's fashion held in Florence, broke a new record for the number of foreign participants. In fact 216 of 445 collections, viewed by around 10,000 visitors, originated from abroad. Such popularity is not surprising, as Pitti Immagine Bimbo is the main displayer of all the leading manufacturers of children's clothing, shoes and accessories. The exhibition is a place where all the new promising projects in this segment are presented. In the light of this season’s theme, ‘Pitti Generations’, the participants tried to analyse how the preferences of different generations are combined in modern fashion in terms of both style of clothing and lifestyle. Speed has become today’s reality, while age is a mental concept rather than an actual one. The variety of trends was amazing – there were traditional Pitti Bimbo brands with classic and elegant collections, as well as luxurious offerings from the Apartment section, IL GUFO

KidzFIZZ’s strikingly creative and experimental selection, the EcoEthic collection focused on environmentally friendly materials, Pop Up Stores accessories and designs, sweeping beats from Sport Generation sportswear catwalk and casual fashion for little residents of megacities SuperStreet. This year Pitti Bimbo celebrated a veteran of the show, well-known children's brand Simonetta. Simonetta has enjoyed 40 years of its participation in the exhibition. On this occasion, a movie based on the Pitti Immagine screenplay was shown where Simonetta became a character: she takes the little girl's hand and moves into the world of both the reality and magic of fashion. There’s good reason why the movie was called ‘Let the journey begin’. It is a journey through collections where the details of each theme is revealed to a curious child. It is worth noting that the N°21 brand’s creator Alessandro Dell’Acqua chose Pitti Bimbo’s runway for his

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HILDA KID'S EVOLUTION

debut children's collection, designed for children from 4–12 years old and which was created under a long-term licence agreement with Grant Spa. The highlight of the exhibition was the return of Miss Blumarine’s high style. This fashionista in the world of childrenswear displayed its preliminary collection for fall/winter 2016. Mafrat Group unveiled its new large scale project, a retail network which includes the opening

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of more than 100 Quore Factory Store shops in 2016. They are designed to shorten the path from the producer to the end consumer by combining the prestige of a multi-brand boutique with the benefits of a franchise. Magnificent Levi's and Guess kids celebrated their return by showing their gorgeous fall/winter 2016 denim collections. ‘Pitti Bimbo has confirmed its role as the reference

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point for international children’s fashion,’ says Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine. ‘During the event our companies were able to meet all the most important international members of the children’s fashion market. And even though, in numerical terms, foreign visitor numbers were slightly down on last year’s figures, the total number of stores present was unchanged. For us this is a sign of the significant interest international retailers have in Pitti Bimbo at a time in history when we know how essential it is for buyers to review their travel expenses due to budgets. We were very pleased to see signs of growth in significant markets like Russia and Ukraine after their lower level of participation in previous seasons. Children’s fashion is going through a period of searching and we are convinced that the results of this season will give Pitti Bimbo more energy and optimism.’

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THE SHOWCASE EXHIBIT IN JANUARY PARIS BRINGS TOGETHER FASHION INDUSTRY AMBASSADORS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD. THEY’RE NOT ONLY HERE FOR THE HAUTE COUTURE FASHION WEEK, WHICH IS TRADITIONALLY HELD AT THE END OF THE MONTH, BUT FOR THE FASHION TRADE SHOWS WHO’S NEXT AND PREMIERE CLASSE

In contrast to fashion shows attracting fashionistas, bloggers and stylists, these trade shows attract professional buyers and resemble a showroom, belonging not to a single manufacturer but with stalls representing many. Over two or three days – the typical length of a trade show – buyers and press look through the huge number of brands gathered in one location, touch the garments, try them on, and evaluate the quality of fabrics and craftmanship. The advantages of such a format are obvious to both parties: the concentration of a great number of brands at one venue is convenient both for the buyers and press and 96

for the young brands that have a chance to show their wares to a large community of professionals. The programme of the Who’s Next trade show involves participation of fashion brands from around the world, split, for the

Text: Anastasia Khvatova Photo: Jules Faure

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visitors’ convenience, into five thematic zones: Fame, Private, Trendy, Urban, and Studio. This season there were 200 brands represented in the Fame section, including young talents of prêt-à-porter and demi-couture. The Private category consisted of creative labels with high commercial potential, represented by womenswear collections embodying recent fashion trends. The Trendy block had as many as 75 womenswear brands – all young and budget-friendly. Another 75 brands were found in Urban, which united menswear and womenswear collections typifying urban street style and jeanswear. Finally, the Studio category consisted of prêt-à-porter collections of 200 womenswear brands representing the current key trends.

its guests to the key trends of the coming season. Interest in the shows grows year on year. According to the official press release issued by the organisers following the trade shows, within a few days of their opening, Who's Next and Premiere Classe were visited by almost 50,000 guests. This number is up by 18% on September 2015 when the previous trade show session took place. In spite of talks about the crisis, all the largest retailers were present at the showground site. Moreover, due to the first appearance of the Ukrainian boutique Villa

Gross, the Korean concept shop Rare Market and KaDeWe, one of the major department stores of Berlin, the number of VIP buyers increased. A large group of Japanese professionals took part in the trade show – along with buyers from Korea, Hong Kong, China, Singapore, and Thailand. The buyers enjoyed the privilege of being the first to see the women’s pre-fall collections, men’s fall collections, and women’s haute couture.

Premiere Classe is one of the world’s largest trade shows in the accessories segment. Traditionally, it has been held in the famous Tuileries Garden four times a year for the last 25 years. Footwear, bags, headwear, gloves and other accessories – the Premiere Classe trade show introduces

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w o c s Mo THIS SEASON’S KEY FASHION SHOWS: FEBRUARY-MARCH 2016

We’ve got all the details of the most important fairs and exhibitions especially for buyers, and you can access it all in our calendar. Here you can view all the newest and most fashionable collections of clothes, shoes and accessories, place orders for your shops for the next season, find useful contacts and simply browse and enjoy yourself.

CPM MOSCOW CPM is the leading fashion fair in Eastern Europe and Russia. It represents international brands of clothing focused on the Russian market, Segments include children’s clothing, premium class, accessories and underwear. Fashion shows and workshops for buyers also take place within in the framework of the fair. Location: Expocentre www.cpm-moscow.ru

22-25 Mar SHOES: A WORLD OF LEATHER

The leading specialised fair of footwear and leather goods in Russia and CIS. It is attended by about 200 manufacturers from different countries annually, with high-quality Italian brands particularly well-represented. The fashion footwear show is complemented by a specialised salon featuring bags, leather haberdashery and accessories. Location: Expocentre www.obuv-expo.ru

Text: Alisa Nesterova

Traditionally February and March offer us a first glimpse of women's collections for the following fall/winter season. A kaleidoscope of different fashion shows and events awaits fashion industry professionals in the next two months, with the main fashion weeks starting one after another. The baton is passed from Tokyo to London, Milan, Paris and, finally, Moscow before Fashion Week ends in New York.

23-26 Feb

If you want to attend one of the events it’s usually enough to register on behalf of your company via the fair’s official website.

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TRANOI Tranoi Paris is the largest and most prestigious platform for young designers and fashion brands in Europe. The fair presents medium/high and high-level clothing and accessories â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a quality selection, thanks to which Tranoi has gained success throughout the world. Since there's a long list of participants you should allocate at least two or three days to visit. Location: 1. Palais de la Bourse, 2. Carrousel du Louvre, 3. CitĂŠ de la Mode e du Design www.tranoi.com

4-7 Mar

PREMIERE CLASSE This professional fair is mainly focused on shoes and accessories, making it primarily of interest to those buyers looking for shoes, handbags and quality jewellery manufacturers. Location: 1. Jardin des Tuileries 2. Pavillon Cambon www.premiere-classe.com

CAPSULE Not particularly big, but a very interesting fair nonetheless for buyers looking for modern fashion collections in the high price category. Also takes place in New York and Las Vegas. Location: 1. Tapis Rouge, 67 rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin www.capsuleshow.com

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14-17 Feb

27-29 Feb

2-5 Mar

THE WHITE SHOW

MICAM AND MIPEL MICAM is the world’s largest professional footwear fair, attended by about 1500 manufacturers. The pavilions are divided by price point: from economy class goods to the luxury segment. The fair also boasts other events and shows, where you can find out about the latest trends and products in the fashion industry. MIPEL – a leading bag and accessories show – will be held in the same exhibition area.

The White Show is a fashion clothing fair, presented by young and promising designers, and has already garnered considerable critical acclaim both in Italy and the rest of the world. If you’re searching for new names for your shop, it’s the place to be. The exhibition stands focus on garments, but there are also shoes and accessories. Location: via Tortona, 27-35-54, Milan www.whiteshow.it

MIFUR MIFUR – the International Fur and Leather Exhibition – is a real attraction for buyers looking for leather and fur goods. It is attended by about 100 manufacturers annually.

Location: Rho Fiera Milano www.micamonline.com www.mipel.com

Location: the 8th and 12th pavilions of Fiera Milano City. www.mifur.com 100

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COTERIE One of the world-leading fairs of women's clothing and accessories for fashion industry professionals, Coterie offers buyers the chance to get acquainted with the latest trends and most talented designers. It takes place biannually in spring and autumn. Location: Javits Centre www.enkshows.com/coterie/

22-24 Feb

21-23 Feb

CAPSULE Another interesting fair for fashion industry professionals, where modern brands and independent high-level designers are presented. Capsule would be particularly useful to owners of boutiques stocking luxury youth clothing. Location: Pier 94, 711 12th Ave, 10019 www.capsuleshow.com

TRANOI Along with Coterie and Capsule you can also visit Tranoi. The fair takes place six times a year: four in Paris and two in New York. Location: The Tunnel www.tranoi.com

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SAECO XELSIS EVO Automatic coffee machine

INCANTO HD8912/09 INCANTO HD8918/09

The Saeco Xelsis Evo coffee machine lets you make different drinks for several users. With its unique customisation feature, it allows you to create up to six user profiles and save up to nine programmes for each. Now all your family members can enjoy the drink they love. Configure ideal froth settings and appreciate the variety of tastes available with a single twist of a knob. To unfold the coffee flavour to the fullest extent, you can choose from eight grinding settings, from the finest, for a rich strong espresso, to the coarsest, for a more delicate taste.

SAECO INCANTO. Automatic coffee machine The Saeco Incanto coffee machine sets new standards in its class. In the exquisite body frame, contemporary Italian technologies are enclosed, developed to deliver divine coffee on a daily basis. Incanto offers true Italian espresso or ‘lungo’ (long espresso), fabulous latte macchiato, thick-froth cappuccino – all with a single button press. Due to its compact size, Incanto is a perfect fit for any interior in any home or office.

XELSIS EVO HD8954/09, HD8953/09

SAECO GRANBARISTO AVANTI Automatic coffee machine

SAECO EXPRELIA EVO HD8859/01, HD8858/01

The first coffee machine that you can operate with your tablet! With GranBaristo Avanti you can enjoy a variety of drinks customised exactly to your taste via your tablet. Now all you need for a perfect cup is at your fingertips. Download the Saeco Avanti application to your tablet or smartphone, set up a secure connection via Bluetooth 4.0, select any of the 18 delicious drinks and configure settings on your smart device – or just use the OneTouch buttons on the coffee machine. With GranBaristo Avanti, the first automatic coffee machine operated via a smart device, entertaining guests is so much easier!

SAECO EXPRELIA EVO. Automatic coffee machine Create your unique taste with Exprelia customising the pre-brewing time! In this model, to extract maximum flavour and aroma from ground coffee beans, they are pre-soaked before the brew starts. Compared to ordinary espresso coffee machines with a pre-brewing feature, Saeco lets you customise the coffee length, which makes every drink unique and brewed exactly as you wish. Moreover, the machine has 15 grind granularity settings – for true coffee lovers.

GRANBRISTO AVANTI HD8969/09

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FEBRUARY – MARCH 2016 FASHION WEEKS FASHION WEEKS REPRESENT A TIME OF STYLE AND BEAUTY WHEN EVERYONE GETS THEIR FIRST GLIMPSE OF THE TRENDS FOR THE FOLLOWING SEASON. DESIGNERS EXHIBIT THEIR NEW COLLECTIONS TO A LUCKY FEW INCLUDING THE PRESS AND BUYERS, TWO INTEGRAL LINKS IN THE FASHION CHAIN. THE MOST FAMOUS AND PRESTIGIOUS FASHION CAPITAL CITIES, NEW YORK, LONDON, MILAN AND PARIS, HAVE RECENTLY SEEN THE APPEARANCE OF NEW-ENTRY FASHION WEEKS, SUCH AS MOSCOW, BERLIN AND TOKYO

In spite of the fact that some of the top designers rotate between the Big Four cities for their shows from year to year, there are still some conceptual differences between the different fashion weeks from the viewpoint of journalists and buyers, and it’s very useful to know about them in advance. New York Fashion Week is considered to be more commercial: featuring a lot of collections which will sell well. In addition, it is more focused on sports and casual styles. London Fashion Week shows are often more conceptual and alternative – if you’re looking for the cutting edge it’s the place to be. Milan is often extravagant but always stylish and feminine, while Paris is simply the mecca of haute couture.

Text: Alisa Nesterova

For the majority of fashion shows an invitation is required, but fashion weeks also feature a lot of other events, from presentations in boutiques and showrooms to professional fairs for buyers. You can always find information about major fashion weeks, show schedules, videos and photos on the website fashionweekonline.com.

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NEW YORK 11 – 18 February New York Fashion Week (NYFW) is the premier fashion event outside of Europe. Curiously, New York was also where everything started: in 1943 the first World Fashion Week was held in this American metropolis. Since trips to world fashion capital Paris weren’t possible during the Second World War, journalist Eleanor Lambert had the bright idea of organising fashion shows at home. It became the finest hour of American designers, who went unnoticed before this new chance to shine. From 11 – 18 February designers from both America and abroad present their new fall/winter collections on the New York runways. The most important names include Lacoste, Alexander Wang, Victoria Beckham, Vera Wang, Oscar de la Renta, DKNY, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs and many others. nyfw.com

LONDON 19 – 23 February In contrast to NYFW, London Fashion Week (LFW) is the youngest of the Big Four. It was first held in 1984 and it still remains the most innovative and cutting-edge fashion event in the world, featuring many new and unknown designers on the verge of breaking through. You can also admire the quirky and unusual street style of the UK capital, unlike anywhere else in the world. The fall/winter 2016-2017 shows of brands including Simone Rocha, Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith, Alexander McQueen, and Burberry will take place as part of this fashion week. www.londonfashionweek.co.uk

MILAN

PARIS

24 February – 1 March

1 – 9 March

It’s no wonder Milan Fashion Week is one of the most reputable and prestigious fashion events in the world. Along with France, Italy was a recognised trendsetter long before any appearance of the fashion week phenomenon. The compactness of the city in comparison to other fashion capitals makes visiting shows and showrooms comfortable and pleasant: no need to hurry here! Of all the fashion weeks Milan’s is famous for graceful and glamorous images, sometimes extravagant and ultra-fashionable but often still echoing the classic canons of style. New collections will be presented by Giorgio Armani, MSGM, Salvatore Ferragamo, Trussardi, Roberto Cavalli, Jil Sander, TOD'S, Versace, Gucci, Prada, Moschino and others. www.milanomodadonna.it

Of all the fashion capitals Paris wears the crown, hosting the most prestigious and most visited fashion week in the world. It’s considered the fashion industry leader not only because of the list of shows but also because of the traditional high buyer demand. During Paris Fashion Week large professional fairs of clothing and accessories and showroom presentations are also held throughout the city. It’s enough to mention just some names of fashion houses who chose Paris for a presentation of new women’s collections for fall/winter 2016-17: Rochas, Lanvin, Balmain, Chloé, Loewe, Issey Miyake, Christian Dior, Elie Saab, Chanel, Valentino, Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton. www.modeaparis.com

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5 FASHION WEEKS THAT WE SHOULD TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT NEW YORK, LONDON, MILAN, AND PARIS ARE A GIVEN. BUT THE FASHION INDUSTRY GOES BEYOND THESE FOUR FASHION CAPITALS! WE’VE CHOSEN FIVE MORE KEY FASHION WEEKS THAT SHOULD BE ON EVERY BUYER’S CALENDAR TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova

01 MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK TOKYO

Where: Tokyo, Japan When: March 14–19 2016 Since Rei Kawakubo from Comme des Garçons conquered Paris back in the 80s, the whole world has had a soft spot both for the avante-garde and bright Japanese style. So it is not surprising that lots of buyers come to see the shows held as part of the Tokyo Fashion Week. The most prominent of the Asian fashion runways displays each season’s creative and sometimes downright kitsch collections of fifty designers and brands, which could even replicate Rei’s success in Paris or New York some day. We recommend that you pay attention to the brands of Hiroko Koshino, Keita Maruyama, and byU.

02 ARAB FASHION WEEK Where: Dubai, UAE When: March 16–19 2016

This new but rapidly developing fashion week is held with the support of the Arab Fashion Council. Among the designers showing off their demicouture creations within the Arab Fashion Week were many well known by European audiences – Tony Ward, Giada Cutri, and Genny – as well as local brands. Although the list of labels taking part in the fashion week in March will not be published on the official site until the middle of February, Dubai is always worth a visit for its local traditions and the luxurious evening gowns to buy for special events and occasions. 106

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03 MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN Where: Berlin, Germany When: July 2016 Berlin’s fashion week is about to celebrate its 18th birthday at the Brandenburg Gate, a landmark of the city of Berlin. The main fashion week of Germany will take place before the four fashion capitals runways start, so the collections presented by the participating designers will be absolutely fresh. The week also includes several other fashion shows in Berlin, including Premium, Panorama, and Green Showroom, the latter being one of the champions of sustainable and ecological fashion.

04 MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK AUSTRALIA Where: Sidney, Australia When: May 15–21 2016 This year the Australian fashion week celebrated its 20th anniversary. A few years ago the organisers were criticised for their unwillingness to hold the fashion week in February-March according to the usual schedule, as well as for presenting collections of young designers who tended to copy their European and American colleagues rather than create their own trends. But today former critics cannot but observe the dramatically increased level of the participants’ expertise. Labels whose collections just cannot be missed include Zimmermann, Toni Maticevski, Camilla and Marc, Tome, and Dion Lee.

05 COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Photo: Elisabeth Eibye

Where: Copenhagen, Denmark When: August 2016

Traditionally, twice a year the main Scandinavian fashion week presents designers whose collections are made in the conventional minimalistic style of the Nordic countries – but don’t go thinking you won’t find any creativity here. The key names are By Malene Birger, Ganni, Bruuns Bazaar, DAY Birger et Mikkelsen, and Henrik Vibskov. The schedule doesn’t just involve the runway shows, as a few fashion trade shows are held simultaneously: CIFF, CIFF KIDS, CIFF Raven, and Revolver present over 1,000 exhibitors from all over the world. Another reason to visit the capital of Denmark during fashion week is the street style of the local fashion editors and bloggers, many of whom have long become stars of street-style chronicles and Instagram posts. 107

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LOOKING AT THE BIG CITY SHOP WINDOW

VIA BUS STOP

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The showcases of the Aoyama district deserve special attention. The most innovative trends in visual merchandising and installation, developed by creatives behind the brands, inspire retailers from all over the world to come up with their own fresh ideas for shop windows. The flagship boutiques of international companies are obviously unmissable, but local multi-brand stores chains, for example Tomorrowland and United Arrows, are also worth your attention.

PRADA

THE MOST LUXURIOUS STREETS OF EUROPEAN FASHION CAPITALS HAVE PLENTY TO BE JEALOUS OF IN TOKYO'S SHOPPING STREETS. INDUSTRY GIANTS SUCH AS PRADA, LOUIS VUITTON AND FENDI HAVE OPENED SPECTACULAR MONOBRAND BOUTIQUES AND CORNERS IN NUMEROUS DEPARTMENT STORES IN THE JAPANESE CAPITAL

TEXT: Marina Bugranova PHOTO: Lior Susana

Tokyo is not only a must-visit destination for shoppers, but also a mecca for fashion professionals. Designers and stylists come here to be inspired by the street fashion of Shibuya district. Analysts study local market trends, where there is still potential for luxury segment growth. Buyers visit Japan to discover the collections of rising fashion stars who may well be poised on the brink of international success following Yohji Yamamoto and Kenzo, or the younger Sacai and Toga.

Aoyama district, merging into Omotesando Avenue, combines high-end fashion boutiques and luxury jewellery brands with the no less fashionable buildings of Zara and H&M. One can see this trend in other Tokyo neighbourhoods, too, and perhaps this is proof of the successful co-existence of high fashion and the mass market not only on the streets but also in wardrobes. They both pay much attention to the development of retail strategies and creative concepts, which have the potential to attract new customers and to create a loyal audience. Shop windows, shop interiors and presentational strategies largely influence the success of any retail space, and the shops in Aoyama personify the most innovative ideas in terms of design and sale efficiency.

Exclusive and fashionable Aoyama district is full of detached buildings with monobrand and multibrand boutiques: each brand here has created an architectural style that reflects its own aesthetics. On the main street of the same name is the world-famous Prada boutique: a six-storey building with fully transparent walls made of diamond-shaped glass panels. World-renowned fashion names rub shoulders with well-known multi-brand boutiques such as Via Bus Stop, as well as monobrands of more niche designers. OMOTESANDO HILLS

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k r o Y New

FASHION CITYGUIDE

BREAKFAST

LUNCH

DINNER

The Plaza hotel in the heart of Manhattan is one of the most referenced in movies and glossy magazines. The hotel’s been home to Kevin from Home Alone, an ideal wedding location in Bride Wars, a filming location for The Great Gatsby with Leonardo DiCaprio – it even put up the Beatles during their first tour in New York. It also happens to serve one of the most famous breakfasts in the city. What could be a better way to fuel up ready for a great day full of fashion shows and new experiences than a morning coffee at the Plaza? Fifth Avenue at Central Park South Tel: 212 759 3000 www.theplazany.com

Fashionable restaurant Daniel is an iconic New York hang-out that is worth visiting to enjoy French haute cuisine and unusual delicacies in an elegant and relaxed atmosphere perfect for important business meetings, especially if you want to make an impression. Just be ready for the steep bill. 60 East 65th Street at Park Avenue Tel: 212 288 0033 www.danielnyc.com

Bouley is one of the most popular restaurants in the city, both with customers and with New York’s exacting food critics. The restaurant uses only the freshest seasonal ingredients and most exquisite recipes. Depending on the time of year, you will be offered truffles, lobster, sturgeon caviar and great wine. 163 Duane Street Tel: 212 964 2525 www.davidbouley.com

NIGHTCLUB

SPA After a busy day full of new impressions and adventures, it's time to relax and unwind. Guerlain Spa located in the Waldorf Astoria hotel is perfect for this. The fancy interior, excellent service and luxury cosmetics make it one of the most prestigious in New York. 100 E 50th Street Tel: 212 872 7200 www.waldorfnewyork.com/spa 110

Text: Alisa Nesterova

In the trendy part of New York’s Meatpacking District, located on the shore of Hudson Bay, you’ll find Le Bain, a popular bar and club that takes up the penthouse and roof of the Standard hotel. In the summer, parties are held by the pool, but the stunning views can be enjoyed year round. It’s an incredible place to relax and enjoy New York’s fantastic energy. 444 West 13th Street. Tel: 212 645 76 00 www.standardhotels.com

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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

11th-18th February 2016

FEBRUARY THURSDAY

12TH

FEBRUARY FRIDAY

13TH

14TH

09|00

11|00

09|00

11TH NICHOLAS K

THE SPACE

THE DOCK

10|00

BCBGMAXAZRIA

10|00

KYE

11|00

JAY GODFREY

12|00

DESIGUAL

15|00

MARISSA WEBB

16|00

KIDS ROCK!

16|30

MARCEL OSTERTAG

18|00

HANLEY

19|00

GO RED FOR WOMEN

FASHION HONG KONG O’2ND

12|00

SON JUNG WAN

12|30

THE DOCK

15|00

LEANNE MARSHALL BAJA EAST

13|00

MONIQUE LHUILLIER

17|30

21|00

BAJA EAST THE DOCK

18|00

THE ARC

NICOLE MILLER

LEANNE MARSHALL THE GALLERY

THE DOCK

19|00

SON JUNG WAN THE DOCK

THE GALLERY

18|00

HERVÉ LÉGER THE ARC

MONIQUE LHUILLIER THE ARC

19|00

MONIQUE LHUILLIER THE ARC

FRANCESCA LIBERATORE

19|00

THE DOCK

THE SPACE

20|00

CUSHNIE ET OCHS

HERVÉ LÉGER

REBECCA MINKOFF THE GALLERY

THE GALLERY

19|00

14|00

THE SPACE

THE DOCK

19|00

CONCEPT KOREA

12|00

THE ARC

THE DOCK

MARISSA WEBB

18|00

13|00

THE GALLERY

VTHE ARC

16|00

YIGAL AZROUËL

REBECCA MINKOFF

TAORAY WANG THE DOCK

THE GALLERY

THE DOCK

THE SPACE

15|00

12|00

THE GALLERY

11|30

TADASHI SHOJI

TAORAY WANG

FEBRUARY SUNDAY

THE DOCK

THE ARC

11|00

KARIGAM

FEBRUARY FRIDAY

MONIQUE LHUILLIER THE ARC

DEMOO PARKCHOONMOO DEMOO PARKCHOONMOO

THE ARC

FEBRUARY MONDAY

16TH

FEBRUARY TUESDAY

17TH

18TH

11|00

10|00

15TH TOMMY HILFIGER LELA ROSE

11|00

13|00

THOMAS WYLDE

13|00

JEREMY SCOTT

13|00

REEM ACRA

14|00

LIBERTINE

14|00

VIVIENNE TAM

ANGEL SANCHEZ DENNIS BASSO ALICE+OLIVIA BY S. BENDET

17|00

13|00

CARMEN MARC VALVO

17|30

SALINAS

14|00

GEORGINE

14|00

RALPH LAUREN 550 WASHINGTON STREET

NAEEM KHAN BIBHU MOHAPATRA BIBHU MOHAPATRA BOSS WOMEN TBC

15|00

DKNY TBC

17|00

MARCHESA THE DOCK

18|00

ANNA SUI THE ARC

THE GALLERY

20|30

11|00

THE GALLERY

THE DOCK

19|00

550 WASHINGTON STREET

THE DOCK

THE ARC

RALPH LAUREN

THE ARC

THE GALLERY

19|00

12|00

THE ARC

THE DOCK

18|30

HIROMI ASAI

XULY BET THE GALLERY

148 WEST 37TH STREET

THE ARC

18|00

11|00

THE DOCK

14|00

VERA WANG THE ARC

THE GALLERY

MICHAEL KORS

FEBRUARY THURSDAY

50 VARICK STREET

THE DOCK

TBC

12|00

CHIARA BONI LA PETITE ROBE

FEBRUARY WEDNESDAY

THE ART INSTITUTES THE ARC

THE ARC, SKYLIGHT AT MOYNIHAN STATION THE GALLERY AT SKYLIGHT CLARKSON SQ THE DOCK, SKYLIGHT AT MOYNIHAN STATION THE SPACE AT SKYLIGHT CLARKSON SQ OFF-SITE SHOWS

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FASHION CITYGUIDE PUB Pubs are a quintessential part of traditional England, and London has a great selection. Where should you go in the evening to enjoy an ice-cold pint of beer? Try The Victoria, located north of Hyde Park near Paddington station. The classic English-style interior and countless varieties of beer are an excellent combination for an evening in the company of your friends or colleagues. 10A Strathearn Place. Paddington Tel: 020 7724 1191 www.victoriapaddington.co.uk

BEAUTY SALON The Windle & Moodie hair salon has been popular for over thirty years, which comes as no surprise. Here premium service is combined with a luxurious interior. The salon is recommended to both its visitors and prestigious glossy magazines, as here experienced stylists create images for fashion shows and photo shoots. 41-45 Shorts Gardens Tel: 020 7497 2393 www.windleandmoodie.com

Whether you prefer muesli, pancakes, scrambled eggs or a hearty breakfast with bacon and hash browns, The Riding House Café has got it all. The informal and friendly atmosphere has quickly won the hearts of Londoners, and the varied and tasty choices on the menu guarantee that you will not stay hungry. 43-51 Great Titchfield Street Tel: 020 7927 0840 www.ridinghousecafe.co.uk

LUNCH

For a piece of Italy in London our choice is Murano Cafè for its cosy atmosphere and simple but tasty dishes cooked with fresh ingredients, perfect for a quick and restorative lunch. The menu changes daily. Two restaurants work under the guidance of chef Angela Harnett – one by St James, the other in Covent Garden. 33 St. James's Street Tel: 020 3371 5559 36 Tavistock Street Tel: 020 7240 3654 www.cafemurano.co.uk

DINNER

Two Michelin stars and traditional British cuisine with a modern designer interpretation is a winning combination that attracts both native Londoners and curious tourists. We are referring of course to the Dinner by Heston Blumenthal restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park hotel, conveniently located a few steps away from the Knightsbridge underground station, the famous department store Harrods and Hyde Park. Perfect location, exquisite cuisine from chef Ashley Palmer-Watts and a great reputation. 66 Knightsbridge .Tel: 020 7201 3833 www.dinnerbyheston.com

Text: Alisa Nesterova

BREAKFAST

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h 19th-23t y 2016 Februar

LONDON FASHION WEEK 19TH 20TH 21ST FEBRUARY FRIDAY

FEBRUARY SATURDAY

FEBRUARY SUNDAY

10|00

LFW PRIVATE VIEW BFC SHOW SPACE

09|00

SHRIMPS BFC PRESENTATION SPACE

09|00

PREEN BY T. BREGAZZI TOPSHOP SHOW SPACE

10|30

SADIE WILLIAMS* BFC PRESENTATION SPACE

10|00

FASHION EAST TOPSHOP SHOW SPACE

9|30

NATASHA ZINKO

11|00

J. JS LEE BFC SHOW SPACE

10|00

JASPER CONRAN BFC SHOW SPACE

10|00

MARGARET HOWELL SEE INVITATION

11|30

ALICE ARCHER W1

10|30

FAUSTINE STEINMETZ*

10|30

HILL AND FRIENDS SEE INVITATION

12|00

FELDER FELDER SEE INVITATION

11|00

BARBARA CASASOLA SEE INVITATION

10|30

CLAIRE BARROW* BFC PRESENTATION SPACE

12|30

STEVENTAI WC2

11|30

PETER JENSEN SEE INVITATION

11|00

ANYA HINDMARCH SEE INVITATION

13|00

EUDON CHOI BFC SHOW SPACE

12|00

SIBLING BFC SHOW SPACE

12|00

MARY KATRANTZOU**

13|00

DAVID KOMA BFC SHOW SPACE

TOPSHOP SHOW SPACE

SEE INVITATION

13|30

EDELINE LEE SEE INVITATION

13|00

JULIEN MACDONALD

14|00

BORA AKSU SEE INVITATION

13|30

MARKUS LUPFER SEE INVITATION

13|30

DANIELLE ROMERIL* SW1

14|30

MANUEL FACCHINI SEE INVITATION

14|00

HOLLY FULTON

14|00

TOPSHOP UNIQUE TOPSHOP SHOW SPACE

15|00

RYAN LO*

14|30

ISA ARFEN

BFC SHOW SPACE

SEE INVITATION

BFC SHOW SPACE

BFC PRESENTATION SPACE

14|30

PHOEBE ENGLISH BFC PRESENTATION SPACE VIVIENNE WESTWOOD SEE INVITATION

15|30

MARTA JAKUBOWSKI*

EMILIA WICKSTEAD SEE INVITATION

15|00

16|00

DAKS W1

15|30

PALMER//HARDING SEE INVITATION

15|30

BELSTAFF

16|30

JOHN SMEDLEY SEE INVITATION

16|00

J.W. ANDERSON WC1

16|00

MULBERRY SEE INVITATION

17|00

FYODOR GOLAN BFC SHOW SPACE

16|30

TEATUM JONES

16|30

HUISHAN ZHANG SEE INVITATION

17|00

PAUL SMITH SEE INVITATION

BFC PRESENTATION SPACE

15|00

SEE INVITATION

17|30

PAUL COSTELLOE SEE INVITATION

17|30

1205 BFC SHOW SPACE

18|00

CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA SEE INVITATION

18|00

SIMONE ROCHA SEE INVITATION

18|00

TEMPERLEY LONDON SEE INVITATION

18|30

LE KILT SEE INVITATION

19|00

HOUSE OF HOLLAND

19|00

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SEE INVITATION

19|00

PPQ

19|30

MOLLY GODDARD* TOPSHOP SHOW SPACE

20|00

CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA BFC SHOW SPACE

19|30

ZANDRA RHODES BFC PRESENTATION SPACE

20|00

GARETH PUGH SEE INVITATION

SEE INVITATION

TOPSHOP SHOW SPACE

* BFC NEWGEN SPONSORED BY TOPSHOP ** BFC/VOGUE DESIGNER FASHION FUND *** MERCEDES-BENZ GLOBAL EXCHANGE PROGRAMME

FEBRUARY MONDAY

RD FEBRUARY TUESDAY

09|00

ANTONIO BERARDI BFC SHOW SPACE

09|00

TOGA BFC SHOW SPACE

09|00

SOPHIA WEBSTER SEE INVITATION

10|00

MOTHER OF PEARL SEE INVITATION

10|00

ROKSANDA SEE INVITATION

10|30

CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN SEE INVITATION

11|00

ERDEM SEE INVITATION

11|00

AMANDA WAKELEY N1

12|00

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND SEE INVITATION

11|30

ALEXANDER LEWIS SEE INVITATION

13|00

BURBERRY SEE INVITATION

12|00

MARQUES'ALMEIDA SEE INVITATION

13|00

ASPINAL OF LONDON SEE INVITATION

12|30

REJINA PYO SEE INVITATION

14|00

AF VANDEVORST BFC SHOW SPACE

13|00

ASHLEY WILLIAMS* BFC SHOW SPACE

15|00

CHRISTOPHER KANE SEE INVITATION

13|30

TATA NAKA SEE INVITATION

16|00

OSMAN SEE INVITATION

14|00

CELEBRATING NEWGEN BREWER STREET CAR PARK

17|00

PETER PILOTTO SEE INVITATION

15|00

EMILIO DE LA MORENA SEE INVITATION

17|30

TOOGOOD

16|00

XIAO LI *** BFC SHOW SPACE

18|00

JOSEPH SEE INVITATION

19|00

ASHISH

SEE INVITATION

BFC SHOW SPACE

LONDONFASHIONWEEK.CO.UK

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VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM

VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM The museum boasts more than 50,000m2 exhibition space, displaying 5000 years’ worth of rare treasures that celebrate the history of our desire for beauty, from the lives of ancient civilizations to the latest design and fashion items. The V&A’s clothing collection is also the richest and most comprehensive in 114

the world, which is why we recommend all fashion industry professionals, such as our readers, attend one of the themed exhibitions. Key topics for the permanent exhibition are 17th-century gowns, 18th-century ‘mantua’ dresses, 1930s eveningwear, 1960s daywear and postwar couture. In addition, the museum is being

Text: Alisa Nesterova

THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM (V&A) IS THE WORLD'S GREATEST MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ART AND DESIGN, FOUNDED IN 1852. IT IS ONE OF THE TWENTY MOST VISITED MUSEUMS IN THE WORLD, WHICH IS NOT SURPRISING, CONSIDERING THE UNRIVALLED VARIETY AND VOLUME OF THE COLLECTIONS HELD THERE

The museum is open daily from 10:00 to 17:45, 10:00 to 22:00 on Fridays Admission to the V&A is free Location: Cromwell Road, London SW7 2RL Tel.: +44 (0)20 7942 2000

MUSEUM EXHIBITION. 17TH AND 18TH CENTURY CLOTHING

updated with new exhibits of contemporary designers constantly and is always opening up new rooms and presenting new collections. December 2015 saw the long-awaited opening of the gallery ‘Europe: 16001815’, in which about 1,100 items can now be seen. Four large rooms are decorated in chronological sequence, while other smaller ones house recreations of three different historical interiors: a Parisian cabinet from the 16th century, a French bedroom from the 17th century and an Italian mirror room from the 18th century. The exhibition includes objects from various spheres of the work and everyday life of Europeans, such as ceramics and glasswares, paintings and sculptures, books, textiles and fashionable clothes. Many of these copies were created by the best craftsmen and artists specifically for such famous

connoisseurs of art as Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette and Napoleon. These items clearly demonstrate the superiority of the French craftsmen in the fashion and design field of the second half of the 17th century, during an epoch when France became the major trendsetter both throughout Europe and beyond, unseating Italy from the leading position. Visitors will also be able to see how exotic items brought to the continent from Africa, Asia and America, became common objects in everyday life. There are also some wonderful temporary exhibits in the V&A. The exhibition ‘Bejewelled Treasures: The Al Thani Collection’ runs until 10 April 2016. Spectacular objects from a private collection reveal the traditions of Indian jewellery craftsmanship and its impact on world fashion. 115

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SPA

After a busy day of shows, presentations and exhibitions, what could be better than relaxing for an hour or two at a spa? Especially if it is not any ordinary wellness centre, but real hot springs! Terme di Milano sheltered by the medieval walls in the city centre is one of the best places for refreshment and beauty in Lombardy. Piazza Medaglie D'Oro, 2 Tel: 02 55199367 www.termemilano.com

BEAUTY SALON If you urgently need beauty salon services including hair cutting and styling or a manicure in the centre of Milan, you will enjoy Brera 13. This brand is represented by two salons in the city, one just a few steps away from the Duomo and the other in Brera district. Via Cappellari, 3. Tel: 342 5654870 Via delle Erbe, 1. Tel: 02 861665 www.brera13milano.com

LUNCH

APERITIF

Looking for a breakfast spot where you can find incredibly delicious desserts and buy authentic Milanese chocolate as a gift for your loved ones? Head to Zàini cafe at Corso Como and do both! A charming interior and a unique tasting experience are guaranteed. Via de Cristoforis, 5 Tel: 02 694914449 www.zainimilano.com

Milan is the most modern city in Italy, so it’s no wonder the first raw vegan restaurant in the country was opened here, next to the Porta Venezia gardens. Mantra Raw Vegan can easily satisfy even the fussiest vegan’s tastes, but it’s not only vegans who’ll love it here. It’s also worth coming to try the unusual mix of flavours and refined yet simple dishes, prepared with fresh vegetables, fruits and herbs. Via Panfilo Castaldi, 21 Tel: 02 89058575 www.mantrarawvegan.com

The famous Milanese tradition of sipping a glass of wine and nibbling on a few snacks has become an essential part of city life. If you fancy experiencing this great Italian tradition somewhere special we recommend N'Obmra de Vin in the Brera district. The charming atmosphere of this venue invites you to linger under the typical tavern arches all evening, surrounded by thousands of bottles of the best wine from all over Italy. Via San Marco, 2. Tel: 02 6599650 www.nombradevin.it

Text: Alisa Nesterova

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MSGM PRE-FALL 2016

BUYER

MILAN FASHION WEEK

24th-29th February 2016

FEBRUARY WEDNESDAY

FEBRUARY THURSDAY

FEBRUARY FRIDAY

09|00

GRINKO CORSO COMO, 5

09|30

MAX MARA CORSO VENEZIA, 16

09|30

DIESEL BLACK GOLD VIA VALTELLINA, 7

10|00

BLUGIRL VIA SAN BARNABA, 48

10|30

COSTUME NATIONAL PIAZZA LINA BO BARDI, 1

10|30

EMPORIO ARMANI * VIA BERGOGNONE, 59

11|00

GENNY CORSO VENEZIA, 16

11|30

LUISA BECCARIA CORSO VENEZIA, 51

11|30

UMA WANG PIAZZA DUOMO - ARENGARIO

12|00

SIMONETTA RAVIZZA PIAZZA LINA BO BARDI, 1

12|30

FENDI VIA SOLARI, 35

12|30

SPORTMAX VIA SAN GREGORIO, 29

13|15

I'M ISOLA MARRAS VIA BERGOGNONE, 26

14|30

GUCCI VIA VALTELLINA, 7

14|00

ANTEPRIMA VIA SENATO, 10

14|00

ETRO VIA PIRANESI, 14

15|30

FAY VIA BRERA, 28

15|00

EMILIO PUCCI VIA OROBIA, 15

15|00

ICEBERG VIA PIRANESI, 10

16|30

ALBERTA FERRETTI CORSO VENEZIA, 16

16|00

LES COPAINS

16|00

MARCO DE VINCENZO

17|30

N°21 VIA COMPAGNONI, 12

17|00

CRISTIANO BURANI PIAZZA DUOMO - ARENGARIO

17|00

TOD'S VIA PALESTRO, 14

18|30

FAUSTO PUGLISI VIA SENATO, 10

18|00

PRADA VIA FOGAZZARO, 36

18|00

ELISABETTA FRANCHI VIA SAN LUCA, 3

19|30

FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO CORSO VENEZIA, 16

18|00

DANIELA GREGIS PIAZZA SANT' AMBROGIO, 23/A

19|00

AIGNER PIAZZA LINA BO BARDI, 1

20|30

ROBERTO CAVALLI

19|00

BYBLOS MILANO VIA SENATO, 10

20|00

VERSACE VIALE EGINARDO - GATE 2

20|00

MOSCHINO VIA SAN LUCA, 3

20|30

ATSUSHI NAKASHIMA PIAZZA DUOMO - ARENGARIO

VIA SAN PAOLO, 10

CORSO VENEZIA, 16

VIA TURATI, 34

* EMPORIO ARMANI H.10,30 - 1A SFILATA H.11,30 - 2A SFILATA

FEBRUARY SATURDAY

FEBRUARY SUNDAY

ND FEBRUARY MONDAY

09|30

BOTTEGA VENETA VIA PRIV. ERCOLE MARELLI, 6

09|30

ALBERTO ZAMBELLI PIAZZA DUOMO - ARENGARIO

09|30

DSQUARED2 VIA SAN LUCA, 3

10|30

UJOH VIA BERGOGNONE, 59

10|30

MARNI * VIALE UMBRIA, 42

10|30

GIORGIO ARMANI * VIA BERGOGNONE, 59

11|30

ANTONIO MARRAS VIA COMPAGNONI, 12

11|15

RICHMOND

11|30

ANGELO MARANI VIA FORCELLA, 6

12|30

BLUMARINE CORSO VENEZIA, 16

12|00

LAURA BIAGIOTTI VIA RIVOLI, 6

12|30

ARTHUR ARBESSER VIA VOGHERA, 8

13|15

LEITMOTIV PIAZZA DUOMO - ARENGARIO

12|45

STELLA JEAN PIAZZA DUOMO - SCALONE ARENGARIO

13|30

MILA SCHÖN VIA BERGOGNONE, 26

14|00

ERMANNO SCERVINO VIA SAN LUCA, 3

15|00

MSGM VIA COMPAGNONI, 12

14|30

VIVETTA PIAZZA DUOMO - ARENGARIO

15|00

JIL SANDER * VIA LUCA BELTRAMI, 5

16|00

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO PIAZZA AFFARI, 6

15|30

SAN ANDRES MILANO PIAZZA DUOMO - ARENGARIO

16|00

CIVIDINI VIA SENATO, 10

17|00

TRUSSARDI CORSO VENEZIA, 16

1630

LUCIO VANOTTI

17|00

GABRIELE COLANGELO VIA BRERA, 28

18|00

AU JOUR LE JOUR PIAZZA DUOMO - ARENGARIO

17|30

PICCIONE.PICCIONE PIAZZA LINA BO BARDI, 1

18|00

AQUILANO.RIMONDI PIAZZA LINA BO BARDI, 1

19|00

MISSONI VIA PRIV. G. VENTURA, 14

18|30

CLOSING EVENT CNMI: A SUSTAINABLE DRINK FOR A SUSTAINABLE FASHION

19|00

PHILOSOPHY DI L. SERAFINI VIA FESTA DEL PERDONO, 7

20|00

DAMIR DOMA VIA PRIV. G. VENTURA, 15

20|00

PORTS 1961

21|00

PHILIPP PLEIN

* JIL SANDER H.15,00 - 1A SFILATA H.16,00 - 2A SFILATA

VIA SENATO, 10

PIAZZA LINA BO BARDI, 1

VIA MACEDONIO MELLONI, 9

PIAZZA CARLO MAGNO - GATE 17

* MARNI H.09,30 - 1A SFILATA H.10,30 - 2A SFILATA

* GIORGIO ARMANI H.10,30 - 1A SFILATA H.11,30 - 2A SFILATA

117

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BUYER

FASHION CITYGUIDE BAR

The Experimental Cocktail Club can be called Paris’s best-kept secret. There are no signs, just a small nameplate. However, the bar is very popular and almost always full. Delicious cocktails, a friendly atmosphere and excellent music make it a great place to spend your evening. 37, Rue Saint Sauveur Tel: 01 4508 8809 www.facebook.com/eccparis

s i r a P

HAIR SALON If you require the services of the best hairdresser in Paris, David Mallett, it is best to book in advance. His eponymous salon is visited by celebrities such as Charlotte Gainsbourg and Carla Bruni, and also offers manicures and pedicures. 14 Rue Notre Dame des Victoires Tel: 01 4020 0023 www.david-mallett.com

LUNCH

DINNER AND SPA

Is there a better place to enjoy exceptional sweets for breakfast than Ladurée? This world famous luxury confectionery brand, established in 1862, is the capital’s premier manufacturer of extremely popular macarons. There are a few of these cafes in Paris, our favourite of which is at the Champs-Elysees. 75, Avenue des Champs Elysées Tel: 01 4075 0875 www.laduree.com

L’Abeille restaurant, located in the 5-star Shangri La hotel is perfect for a chic lunch with important partners in a sophisticated setting with a garden view. One of the best Michelin-starred chefs in France will tantalise your tastebuds, and when the meal is over make sure to visit the hotel’s rooftop to enjoy a breathtaking view of the Eiffel Tower. 10, Avenue d'Iéna Tel: 01 5367 1990 www.shangri-la.com

If good food is not enough for you and you want to try something extraordinary, welcome to dinner in total darkness at Dans le Noir. Here a new experience is guaranteed! This popular dinner format can now be followed by some time in the spa. Restaurant: 51 Rue Quincampoix Tel: 01 4277 9804 SPA: 65 rue Montmartre Tel: 01 8395 4677 www.paris.danslenoir.com

Text: Alisa Nesterova

BREAKFAST

118

LANVIN PRE-FALL 2016

BUYER

PARIS FASHION WEEK

1th-9th March 2016

1TH

2TH

3TH

4TH

5TH

10|00

LUCIEN PELLAT FINET

10|00

COURRÈGES

10|00

CHLOÉ

09|30

LOEWE

09|30

JUNYA WATANABE

11|00

LISELORE FROWIJN

11|00

MAISON MARGIELA

11|00

CARVEN

11|00

CHALAYAN

10|30

HAIDER ACKERMANN

12|00

AALTO

12|00

EN ATTENTE / TBC

12|00

MANISH ARORA

12|00

ISSEY MIYAKE

11|30

VÉRONIQUE LEROY

13|00

NEHERA

13|00

YANG LI

13|00

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER

13|00

JULIEN DAVID

12|30

MUGLER

14|00

EACH X OTHER

14|00

CÉDRIC CHARLIER

14|00

PACO RABANNE

14|30

CHRISTIAN DIOR

14|00

ACNE STUDIOS

15|00

LÉA PECKRE

15|00

DRIES VAN NOTEN

15|00

BALMAIN

15|30

ISABEL MARANT

15|00

ELIE SAAB

16|00

ANNE SOFIE MADSEN

16|00

GUY LAROCHE

16|00

ALEXIS MABILLE

16|30

UNDERCOVER

16|00

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

17|00 ANREALAGE

17|00

ROCHAS

17|00

BARBARA BUI

17|30

ANDREW GN

17|00

COMME DES GARÇONS

18|00 ANTHONY VACCARELLO

18|00

AGANOVICH

18|00

RICK OWENS

18|30

LUTZ HUELLE

18|00

RAHUL MISHRA

19|00 JACQUEMUS

19|00

LEMAIRE

19|00

PASCAL MILLET

19|30

EMANUEL UNGARO

19|30

NINA RICCI

20|00 KOCHÉ

20|00

VIONNET

20|00

LANVIN

20|30

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

20|30

OLYMPIA LE TAN

20|00

VETEMENTS

MARCH TUESDAY

MARCH WEDNESDAY

MARCH THURSDAY

21|00 Y/PROJECT

MARCH SATURDAY

MARCH FRIDAY

6TH

7TH

8TH

9TH

10|00

VALENTIN YUDASHKIN

10|00

STELLA MCCARTNEY

10|30

CHANEL

10|00

LOUIS VUITTON

BALENCIAGA

11|00

SACAI

11|30

AGNÈS B.

11|00

PASKAL

CÉLINE

12|00

LEONARD PARIS

12|30

VANESSA SEWARD

12|00

MONCLER GAMME ROUGE

14|00

MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ

13|30

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

13|30

ELLERY

13|00

YDE

15|00

JOHN GALLIANO

14|30

VÉRONIQUE BRANQUINHO

14|30

VALENTINO

1400

MIU MIU

16|00

ROLAND MOURET

15|30

JUNKO SHIMADA

15|30

EN ATTENTE / TBC

17|00

MASHA MA

16|30 HERMÈS

16|30

IRIS VAN HERPEN

16|30

MOON YOUNG HEE

AKRIS

18|00

SONIA RYKIEL

17|30

SHIATZY CHEN

17|30

EN ATTENTE / TBC

19|00

ESTEBAN CORTAZAR

18|30

PAUL & JOE

20|00

SAINT LAURENT

19|30

KENZO

20|30

OFF/WHITE

MARCH SUNDAY

11|30 13|00

18|00

MARCH MONDAY

MARTIN GRANT

MARCH TUESDAY

119

MARCH WEDNESDAY

WWW.MODEAPARIS.COM

BUYER

w o c s Mo

FASHION CITYGUIDE BEAUTY SALON

You can get your makeup and a stylish hairstyle done in Njoy salon located in the city centre near Pushkinskaya metro station, where you will enjoy a cosy atmosphere and a team of high-level professionals. Bogoslovskiy Lane, 16/6 Tel: +7 915 4990959 www.njoy-style.ru

NIGHTCLUB

Moscow never sleeps! The capital of Russia has a thriving nightlife, so it is worth visiting at least one nightclub. We recommend two popular venues in the city centre. Denis Simachev Shop & Bar is a small and very fashionable venue with consistently good crowd, music, and atmosphere, but dress your best as there’s a strict door policy. If you want to relax and enjoy views of the city at night, try the Time Out Bar on the top floor of the Beijing hotel. Denis Simachev Shop&Bar: Stoleshnikov Lane, 12, bld. 2. Tel: +7 495 6298085 www.facebook.com/dsbar Time Out Bar: Bolshaya Sadovaya, 5/1. Tel: +7 495 2290180 www.bartimeout.ru

LUNCH

DINNER

Start the day the Russian way with porridge, pancakes or scrambled eggs and you’ll get off on the right foot! This is particularly true if you go to Café Pushkin in the heart of the city, a place where the cuisine and decor harmoniously combine in the classical style of Imperial Russia. This spot is loved by both Muscovites and foreigners. Tverskoy Boulevard, 26-А Tel: +7 495 7390033 www.cafe-pushkin.ru

These days Russian cuisine in Moscow is more popular than ever. One of the new places that has quickly won the affection of Muscovites is the Voronezh restaurant located across from the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour. This facility occupies an elegant four-storey house from the late eighteenth century with a different menu offered on each floor. Prechistenka, 4 Tel: +7 495 6950641 www.voronej.com

Text: Alisa Nesterova

BREAKFAST

121

White Rabbit, located under a glass dome on the 16th floor of Smolensky Passage, is a beautiful and elegant restaurant where the interior is the perfect introduction to the superior cuisine. Here Russian dishes reach the height of renowned delicacies as new recipes are created by Vladimir Mukhin, one of the most famous chefs in Russia. Smolenskaya Square, 3, 16th floor Tel: +7 495 6633999 www.whiterabbitmoscow.ru