Project Research by Caitlin Doney

As Luxury Designer Childrenswear Continues to Achieve Record Sales, how can Smaller Independent Labels Succeed in this Marketplace?

Caitlin Doney 15002241 Project Research DE0929 BA (Hons) Fashion Communication Northumbria University

Contents 1

Introduction

Methodology

Chapter 1 : Why has there been a Growth in Luxury Childrenswear?

Chapter 2 : What Type of Luxury Products can Independent Chidrenswear Brands Offer to Ensure their Success?

13 Chapter 3: What can Independent Brands do to Suceed? 17 Conclusion 19 References 21 Bibliography

Above: Sai De Silva alongside Instagram famous daugher, Scout (De Silva, 2017).

...

Euromonitor reported that global sales of designer childrenswear were close to $5.9 billion in 2016.

Introduction

(WGSN, 2017).

Millennial culture and its aspirational consumption are influencing all aspects of the global marketplace, with the growth in childrenswear currently outpacing both menswear and womenswear (Abnett, 2016). The previously untapped luxury childrenswear market is basking in unprecedented sales, as older hyperconnected parents with higher disposable incomes continue to spend lavishly on their children. Euromonitor reported that global sales of designer childrenswear were close to $5.9 billion in 2016 (WGSN, 2017). The demand for luxury items continues to increase even during global depressions. Despite a downturn in the global economy, it has been found that the luxury market is not affected in the same way as normal goods (Yoon Rhee, 2012).

to step forward and challenge the larger more established companies. As a result the marketplace has now become more fragmented with smaller independent brands, many of them international, attracting the interest of those looking for quality fashion; brands like Frugi offering organic baby and childrenswear (Frugi, 2017) and Polarn O. Pyret, a Swedish company specialising in natural fabrics and practical designs (Polarn O. Pyret, 2017). These smaller independents are offering luxury, with items often more expensive than the high street but at a fraction of the cost compared to larger designer brands. In an online survey 32% of participants said they shopped at independents often (Appendix E, 7).

The Veblen effect, coined by economist Thorstein Veblen is caused when consumers believe that higher priced goods are of a higher quality, or by the desire for conspicuous consumption (Veblen, 1899). Consumers want to be seen buying or wearing an expensive item. Leading luxury brands like Gucci and Burberry have reacted to this demand by launching their own sub brands in mini fashion (Kay, 2017).

This dissertation will first examine the reasons behind the growth of the luxury childrenswear market and will also compare the type of commodity offered by established, designer brands and smaller independent retailers. This body of research will also investigate what the independent stores need to offer if they are to continue to vie for a position in this marketplace. It will furthermore examine how best they can communicate and promote their brands within the industry.

Increasing sales in childrenswear has created a commercial opportunity for new brands

For the purpose of this research, a luxury item is described as â&#x20AC;&#x153;an inessential, desirable

A luxury item is described as an inessential, desirable item, which is expensive. (Oxford Dictionary, 2017)

Methodology Primary research was conducted in the form of interviews (either in person, or via email) with figures placed within, or knowledgeable on the childrenswear market. Such figures include Natalie Sullivan, owner of an independent childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shop, The Simply Small Company (See Appendix B), Liz Pilgrim, editor and managing director at Babye Ltd (See Appendix C). These individuals were chosen because of their professional insight into the market. Sarah Dodgson nee Walker, previously a designer dressmaker and now managing director of online vintage boutique, Giddy Gerty has also participated in this body of research (See appendix D). Alongside the aforementioned interviews, an online survey was conducted via SurveyMonkey. The anonymous

questionnaire invited parents with children under the age of thirteen to answer questions related to childrenswear trends and their relationship with luxury and independent brands (See Appendix E). Secondary research focused on academic books and journals detailing the influences on the childrenswear market, alongside a number of online articles investigating the competition of both markets, from a variety of trusted sources such as The Business of Fashion and WGSN. All primary research carried out under this body of research was ethically sound, and no participant was exposed to harm, with all persons and data being treated with respect (See Appendix A).

Right: Gucci Children AW17/18 campaign (Gucci, 2017).

To examine the market influences, it is necessary to look first at the parents. In most developed countries, parents are choosing to have fewer children and later in life (Kincaid, 2015). The Office for National Statistics reports that in 2015, 53% of all live births in England and Wales were to mothers aged 30 years and over (Office for National Statistics, 2015). This trend can be attributed to a number of factors, such as higher education opportunities, career progression, accessibility to birth control, rising costs of childbearing and increased housing costs. As a consequence, parents have more disposable income and the means to indulge their children.

Chapter 1 Why has there been a Growth in Luxury Childrenswear?

Many parents have a desire to show their wealth and one way to do this is to dress their children in high-end fashion. With the advent of social media, this show of wealth becomes a public show of wealth, no longer confined to friends and family but a much wider audience. Instagram is one of the fastest growing online social web services, where users share their life images with other users. Individuals spend more time on Instagram than other similar sites (Sheldon & Bryant, 2016) and Instagram has reported more than 800 million monthly active users (Statista, 2018). In an anonymous online survey over 20% of participants stated that they discovered childrenswear trends via social media (See Appendix E, 4). Scout Fashion is an Instagram page managed by Sai De Silva, mother of two, from New York (De Silva, 2017). Originally her motivation was to connect with family and friends, but the site is now primarily used to share images of her daughter’s designer outfits. It attracts nearly three hundred thousand followers (Ishak, 2016). Silva’s daughter is often pictured styled in luxury brands such as Gucci, Calvin Klein and Chanel. Her followers are not only desiring the clothes her daughter is wearing but also the lifestyle she portrays. This portrayal is one that she has carefully edited and filtered, ready for marketing. The Source Credibility Theory suggests that consumers perceive individuals with a large number of subscribers as more attractive and trustworthy (Djafarova & Rushworth, 2017).

Right: Daughter of Kim Kardashian, North West wearing a pink fur jacket and choker (Jennings, 2015).

De Silva has gained notoriety and fame as a result of her Instagram page but those who have already achieved fame are also influencing the market. Celebrities’ profiles are at the top of the list of the most followed pages on Instagram, frequently used to deliver marketing communication messages to their followers. Celebrity parents have the income to buy luxury childrenswear and because of their media presence and personal style, what their children wear also becomes of public interest. Images of Kim Kardashian’s daughter, North West wearing a customised Balmain jacket and Beyoncé’s daughter, Blue Ivy Carter carrying her Gucci handbag attract high media interest. The children become a brand extension of the celebrity and their style. In recent years there has been a rise of mini me collections, with luxury designers producing a scaled down version of the adult outfit. If Kim and North West wear matching Givenchy biker jackets in public, the media exposure is guaranteed, which is good news for the Kardashian brand and in turn for Givenchy. Celebrities are also beginning to shape the styling of children in a more direct way, with the release of their own brand childrenswear lines. The Kids Supply, established by Kim Kardashian and Kanye West, features a collection of slip dresses, bomber jackets, fluffy sliders and chokers. The couple recently released the third collection, with many of these pieces now sold out. (The Kids Supply, 2017). They have faced criticism that some of the pieces are inappropriate for children. In the past North West has been photographed wearing leather trousers, a $3500 fur coat and a leopard print slip dress. Whilst promoting her latest collection of children’s clothes, Margherita Missoni, an Italian designer, made reference to North West’s style, “You have all your life to be an adult, and to dress like one. You should be a child for as long as you can.” (Yahoo Style, 2017) Fabrics used for adult pieces, like leather, are less practical for children, as it cannot be machine-washed and it does not stretch or breathe. Educational

psychologist, Kathryn Stamoulis, say’s “Uncomfortable clothing sends the message it’s more important to look good than feel good or have fun.” (Jamin, 2017) Consumers buying luxury childrenswear will also be considering the resell value. Certain labels, due to their reputation and iconic designs will guarantee a return on investment. Sarah Dodgson, owner of a vintage clothing brand believes “Labels that have good branding, signature details, luxury status, associations with groups such as royalty, celebrities and labels that have been around for years and are well regarded, have the best resale value.” (See Appendix D) A recent report conducted by Thredup, the world’s largest second hand retailer, suggested that over half of millennials consider the resale value of an item before making a purchase (Thredup, 2017). It also gives parents, unable to buy these luxury items at first point of sale, due to higher costs, an opportunity to purchase designer labels for their children. Sarah adds “It makes clothing more democratic as people can afford branded second hand clothing which potentially increases the market for the brand.” (See Appendix D) Having discussed parental influences, it is also necessary to examine the effect that children themselves are having on the market. Children are becoming more worldly-wise, fashionconscious and media aware than ever before. Liz Pilgrim, blogger at BabyE believes “Children aged 8 years and above, in my experience, are becoming more fashion conscious as

they are so exposed to media images through television, internet and social media, that they’re able to aspire to brands in ways other previous generations haven’t.”(See Appendix C) It may also derive from peer pressure within school and from friends, which directly impacts on social consumption motivations. Children surrender to peer pressure because they desire to be liked or because they are concerned that others may ridicule them if they do not follow the group (Wooten, 2006).

Children aged 8 years and above, in my experience, are becoming more fashion conscious as they are so exposed to media images through television, internet and social media, that they’re able to aspire to brands in ways other previous generations haven’t. (Liz Pilgrim, Appendix C)

In an anonymous survey, which polled parents with children under the age of 13, it was found that 29% of participants stated that their children chose their own outfits and 35% stated that it was a joint decision (See appendix E, 2). It is obvious that babies and very young children are unable to make these decisions. If luxury designer outfits are bought, then the children themselves have not influenced the parents. Once a child is old enough to be exposed to outside influences, then the choices they make will be affected by this. Some childrenswear stores use strategies to attract the child. Harrods have established a Mini Harrods club, designed for children between the ages of two and ten years old. Members are introduced to their mascot bear, Oska Poska Doolittle and privileges include exclusive invitations to events, competitions and activities, as well as being the first to see new clothing ranges (Harrods Ltd, 2017).

An increase in digital connectivity gives the consumer greater knowledge and a higher level of convenience (Evans, 2017), which has resulted in the larger, more traditional luxury retailers having to share their place in the market, with smaller independent brands. Parents are being given an opportunity to identify with a brand, their story, ethos and values, which allows a deeper connection to develop between retailer and consumer. Parents can take the information on offer and make an informed choice about a brand. Consumers will have a range of priorities when it comes to choosing childrenswear; safety, comfort, design, quality, cost and sustainability. In an online survey 58% of participants rated quality as the most important factor when buying children’s clothing (See appendix E, 3).

Chapter 2 What Type of Luxury Products can Independent Childrenswear Brands Offer to Ensure their Success?

It could be argued that the smaller independent brands attract a consumer who, as a result of their socio economic background, have more disposable income and are educated so that they can make reasoned buying choices. Sociologist, Elizabeth Currid-Halkett, suggests that “social, environmental and cultural awareness” have become the new social capital. She goes onto offer an explanation for this, saying that only the most exclusive labels can be used as class signifiers. The alternative is goods that reflect a consumer’s high education level and cultural awareness (Kopf, 2017). For instance, they may feel that environmental issues are of tantamount importance so would choose to buy organic cotton babywear. Consumers are willing to pay a price premium for products, which are perceived to contribute to sustainability, social responsibility and greening of the environment (Meise et al, 2014).

Above: Traditional portraiture of the Queen and grandchildren, captured by Annie Leibovitz (White, 2016).

In contrast to the mass manufacturing of larger design houses, independents produce on a smaller scale and this is one of the reasons their products are desirable. On the 2nd of May, 2015, Princess Charlotte left the Lindo Wing of the Princess Mary Hospital in Paddington, wearing an ivory hand knitted bonnet, a gift from her nanny’s mother (Couzens, 2017). The bonnet had been bought from Irulea, a Spanish boutique in San Sebastian. Irulea, which translates as spinner in Basque, is a family run business, established in 1932. They specialise in selling homemade baby clothes and claim that they “get closer to the tastes and needs of our customers,

providing the experience of three generations.” Demand for the bonnet and similar pieces has been such, that the shop’s website has a page devoted to the Princess Charlotte range (Irulea, 2017). Independent retailers can concentrate on a very particular sort of style, which translates to all their collections and helps to promote brand loyalty. Rachel Riley is a British designer who’s “philosophy is rooted in her traditional lifestyle” She draws inspiration from the forties, fifties and sixties, with vintage inspired prints, hand smocking and embroidery (Riley, 2017). The smocked dungarees worn by Prince George on his first official engagement in Australia, sold out immediately and two years on, the £75 dungarees remain one of the brands most popular items. Riley has seen her sales increase 12% year on year (Asome, 2016). The brand has a very strong identity and target market. The success of the Rachel Riley brand is partly attributable to the fact that there is a market for dressing babies and young children in traditional clothing. This deviates from adult fashion, when consumers are constantly looking for the next trend. One reason for the popularity in traditional childrenswear is it satisfies the consumer’s sense for nostalgia, as these clothes are reminiscent of how they or their parents were dressed as children. On the Queens 90th birthday, Annie Leibovitz was commissioned to take a photograph of Her Majesty with her grandchildren and greatgrandchildren. The children were dressed in smocked dresses, pleated skirts, ruffled socks and T-bar shoes (Matfil, 2016). Royal biographer, Ingrid Seward claims their style is an “upper class English look, which will never date” (Spedding et al, 2016). The pieces become classic and timeless and ultimately becomes more difficult for the photograph to look dated. Sarah Dodgson adds, “A timeless piece embodies a classic design. Its not fashion forward or throw away fashion but something that sits outside of fashion trends.” (See Appendix D) Spanish labels supplied the majority of the clothing the royal children were wearing for the photo-shoot. Simona Saraz, head buyer at Igloo Kids says the look of the royal children is more formal and that “in Spain, it is more commonplace for children to dress in this way” (Spedding et al, 2016). Parents who are unable to buy this more traditional style on

the high street, can source from international independents. There is a tradition for babywear and childrenswear to be passed on. This maybe parents being frugal and handing clothes down to siblings or if the piece has been handmade and is deemed a luxury item it can passed down from generation to generation. The more traditional items, like those worn by the royal children lend themselves to this because they look timeless. Luxury christening gowns can become a family keepsake, connecting generations. In 1841, Queen Victoria commissioned a gown for the christening of her eldest daughter, Victoria. 62 royal babies subsequently wore the gown before being deemed too fragile to continue in service (Royal Collection Trust, 2017). Dodgson believes that “Pieces that are rare and showcase crafts such as embroidery and embellishments hint at longevity and lend themselves to be heirlooms.” (See Appendix D) It is traditional for a baby to receive handmade knitted clothing from family and friends. The giver feels involved in some way with the arrival of the new baby and the recipient appreciates the time that has gone into making the product. It allows grandparents and parents an opportunity to prepare for the new arrival by knitting ahead of the baby’s birth. Wool is also classed as a natural material and along with cotton is more popular for babies than manmade or synthetic fabrics. Although in recent years there has been a revival of crafts like knitting, the skills have generally been lost and so smaller independents can plug this gap by selling hand knitted goods. One such independent is Snug Creations, a company based in Bournemouth, specialising in hand knitted baby clothes, they sell items like gender neutral booties, made from Merino wool, which they claim “is one of the softest wools available, it regulates body temperature and is gentle on baby’s skin.” (Snug Creations, 2017) The consumer looking for a handmade luxury item might be considering such a product because it is more environmentally sustainable, of superior quality, more accessible due to the internet, unique and it can make the consumer feel better because they are supporting skilled workers and smaller independents. Some independent labels have an ideology that attracts consumers with strong values like Frugi who sell organic baby and childrenswear.

In marketing their products, they promote the health benefits to baby’s skin of wearing organic and the environmental advantages of sustainable farming (Frugi, 2017). Consumers feel greater trust and are likely to be more loyal to a company whose manufacturing process is so clear. The awards they have won are displayed on their website, including ‘Loved by Parents Awards’ and ‘Mother and Baby Awards.’ (Frugi 2017) Transparency is key when it comes to successful marketing. A 2016 study from Label Insight reveals that nearly 40% of consumers will switch to a brand that is more transparent (Sustainable brands, 2016). Liz Pilgrim believes that trust can also be gained through integrity, by brands “Listening to their customers and staying true to their initial brand proposition.” (See appendix C) In contrast to the luxury designer clothes, where clothing was found to be restrictive and often impractical for washing, there are a number of independents that offer luxury and practicality. Polarn O Pyret believes that children’s clothing should not be miniaturised adult clothing. As well as designs that are comfortable, they advocate practicality and safety, incorporating design features like detachable hoods, which can come off easily if the item becomes stuck in anything and reflectors in all their outerwear. They cover zips with fleece and use soft seams that will not chafe skin. Waistbands are adjustable and all their items are machine washable (Polarn O. Pyret, 2017).

In 1841, Queen Victoria commissioned a gown for the christening of her eldest daughter, Victoria. 62 royal babies subsequently wore the gown before being deemed too fragile to continue in service. (Royal Collection Trust, 2017)

Natalie Sullivan, owner of an independent boutique, The Simply Small Company, explains that the clothes she stocks are not trend led or design focused but are wearable. She says, “You don’t have to worry if they ruin them, they wash well and that’s what’s important.” (See Appendix B) Clothes that are superior quality, manufactured to a high standard and designed well can be handed down or resold. Frugi claim to design clothes that increase wear, with adjustable waistbands and trousers that incorporate ‘roll-ups’ and can accommodate the growing child. They use knee patches and strong seams and claim the organic cotton they use “washes so well that clothes can be handed down from generation to generation.” (Polarn O. Pyret, 2017) Babies and young children grow out of clothing quickly and therefore it could be argued that spending vast sums on clothing is not good value for money.

Chapter 3. What can Independent Brands Do To Succeed?

The Internet has revolutionised the fashion industry. Where once, large retailers dominated the industry, smaller brands can now take advantage of widespread digital connectivity, in an attempt to compete with these big brands. They may not have the budget to spend on celebrity endorsement or high profile marketing campaigns but there are a number of strategies smaller independents can use to help them succeed. However, competition is fierce with so many independents staking a claim on the market and long term survival depends on working hard to guarantee commercial success.

Right: Founders of Babyccino (Babyccino, 2017).

One way independents can stand out from the larger retailers is to promote the people that exist behind the brand. Niddle Noddle is an online children’s boutique, which sources labels that are usually exclusive to them. Their aim is to offer products that have not yet reached the wider market. The website is transparent, informing customers of how the founders met and their mutual values and the ethos behind the business. They have a strong social media presence, connecting with customers on Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram and Twitter (Niddle Noddle, 2017). Sam Jarvis, founder of HubBox suggests that retail giants are disadvantaged because they do not have this sort of individual personality (Jarvis, 2017). An ‘about us’ page also helps to make a connection to the target market by creating a feeling of community. Eilidh and Katrine, founders of Niddle Noddle claim their motivation to set up the company was the lack of original children’s wear on offer, in the high street. As consumers, they felt let down by the lack of choice when trying to source products no other child was wearing (Niddle Noddle, 2017). Parents who empathise with this will feel an immediate connection, a common value.

Independents are in a better position to get to know their customers, to find out exactly what they want and ultimately providing it. Knowing your target audience allows you to develop the products they desire and to identify which marketing strategies would work best. Natalie Sullivan has identified two distinct types of customer. She explains, “You’ve got the yummy mummies who are influenced by social media and how other mothers dress their kids. I also have the generous grans. I get a lot of grandmothers who love to spoil their grandchildren.” She appreciates that the older generation prefer to visit the shop and “touch the products”. In contrast, the younger generation are more confident shopping online (See Appendix B). In an anonymous online survey 78% of parents with children under the age of thirteen prefer to shop in-store (See Appendix E, 8). Independent brands are also in a better position to deliver consistently high standards of service to gain and retain customer loyalty. Professor Heiner Evanschitzky, a retail management expert explains, “Where small retailers can make a big difference is knowing their customer. Big retailers will know what the national average wants, but that doesn’t always apply to every market. So small retailers can ask shoppers what they want and then deliver it with great service that sets them apart from a chain.” (Hargrave, 2015)

Shop owners often work within the store, such as Natalie from The Simply Small Company. This direct customer to owner contact delivers greater product knowledge because there is an in-depth understanding behind all stages of the supply chain. Brand owners are informed on the supplier, manufacturer, distribution, retailer and customer (Fredendall, 2016). Sales assistants working for well-established brands like Gucci may not be as informed or involved in the foundation stages of the supply chain. In meeting the customers directly in-store or connecting via social media, brands can also get to know their customers better. Knowing the target audience will help brands identify the most useful platform to use for promotion and communication purposes. A well thought out social media campaign should appeal to the consumer’s fantasies and emotions by showcasing a specific aesthetic or look. Independents can use their websites and social media to inspire. It is no longer about selling individual products but instead, a whole look. An effective marketing campaign should also concentrate on promoting the unique qualities of the brand. Liz Pilgrim explains, “Independent brands have to stake out their own unique selling point. They can’t compete with the high street so they have to offer something different maybe design or ethical qualities for example.” (See Appendix C) Online childrenswear stores such as Frugi, Polarn O Pyret and Snug

Creations sell unique products or the brands have unique core values. Federica MargelliScragger says “If your products are handmade or customisable or any number of things that set you apart, focusing on that unique aspect will gain you recognition and build into your brand over time.” (Margelli-Scragger, 2016) Sites like Babyccino have also made it easier for small independent brands to get their name out there. Babyccino is described as a shopping portal, which connects shoppers with the products they are looking for. It was established in 2011, when three friends noticed an increase in new boutique type brands infiltrating the children’s market. It markets itself as a community and “international lifestyle website for modern mums” with blogs on food, fun, parenting, style and travel (Babyccino Kids, 2017). Each independent has a description of the people behind the brand and the types of products on offer. A portal like this allows for an easier and more convenient shopping experience, from selection, to payment and delivery. The Internet has opened up the marketplace. Sourcing products from international brands has never been easier and it has also allowed anyone who creates handmade items to turn it into a viable business opportunity.

You’ve got the yummy mummies who are influenced by social media and how other mothers dress their kids. I also have the generous grans. I get a lot of grandmothers who love to spoil their grandchildren.” (Natalie Sullivan, Appendix B)

Conclusion As discussed, there are a number of economic and psychological factors at play, to explain the growth in the luxury childrenswear market. Consumers are motivated to buy high-end luxury good as a show of wealth and status, in a quest for quality, as a result of certain influences such as celebrity culture and finally social media awareness. This body of research has found that there is a place in the luxury childrenswear market for smaller independent retailers, who can offer commodities without the huge price tag and without compromising on quality. The evidence suggests that the larger luxury designer brands can co-exist with smaller independent brands, as the target consumers have very different profiles. Those buying from luxury brands like Gucci and Kids Supply are likely to continue to pay the extra money even if a similar product can be bought at a lower price and manufactured to the same quality, because for them, it represents higher status. The research would suggest that the customer buying from the smaller independent brands is more socially, environmentally and culturally aware.

Above: Willaby brand on Babyccino (Babyccino, 2017).

Despite the growth of fast fashion and constantly changing trends, when it comes to childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothing the evidence presented would suggest that there will always be a market for more traditional clothing and those seeking out a unique product. The rising popularity of independent brands can only benefit from technological advancements, which allow brands to connect with their target market. Millennials are confident social media users, aspiring to lifestyles as well as looking to it for inspiration. As the marketplace becomes more crowded, the key to success for independent retailers is brand transparency, knowing their customers well, providing a high and consistent level of service, selling products they desire and using the relevant strategies to promote their brand and engage with the consumer. Final word count including primary research quotes and excluding secondary research quotes and referencing = 4185

References

Kopf, Dan. (2017) The New, Nearly Invisible Class Markers That Separate The American Elite From Everyone Else [online] Available at: https://qz.com/999078/the-new-conspicuousconsumption-is-a-lacrosse-playing-child-and-an-npr-tote-bag/ [Accessed 25th November 2017]

Abnett, K. (2016). The Childrenswear Market Comes of Age. Available: https://www. businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/the-childrenswear-market-comes-of-age [Accessed 1st November 2017]

Margelli-Scragger, F. (2016) Do You Sell Fashion Online? 9 Things Successful Fashion Brands Have In Common [online] available at: https://info.supadupa.me/blog/9-things-successfulfashion-brands-have-in-common#.WkwccracZo4 [accessed 21st December 2017]

Asome, C. (2016) Meet Rachel Riley, the woman making Prince George and Princess Charlotte style leaders before their fifth birthdays [online] Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/ brands/meet-rachel-riley-the-woman-making-prince-george-and-princess-ch/ [Accessed 1st November 2017]

Matfil, L. (2016) Annie Leibovitz Shoots Portraits of Queen Elizabeth, Youngest Royals [online] Available at: http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/annie-leibovitz-portraitsqueen-elizabeth-with-youngest-royals-princess-anne-and-dogs-prince-george-princesscharlotte-10415775/ [accessed 1st November 2017]

Babyccino Kids. (2017) Babyccino Kids About [online] available at: https://babyccinokids.com/ shop/about.html [accessed 21st December 2017]

Meise, J.N, Rudolph, T, Kenning, P, Phillips, D.M. (2014) Feed them facts: value perceptions and consumer use of sustainability-related product information. [Journal] Elsevier Science Niddle Noddle. (2017) Niddle Noddle About [online] available at: https://niddlenoddle.com/pages/ about-us [accessed 1st November 2017]

Couzens, G. (2015) Princess Charlotte: Royal baby’s bonnet was present bought in Spain by her nanny [online] Available at: http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/princess-charlotte-royalbabys-bonnet-5655835 [accessed 21st November 2017] De Silva, S. (2017) @scout fashion [Instagram] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/ scoutfashion/?hl=en [Accessed 13th December 2017] Djafarova, E. & Rushworth, C. (2017). Exploring the Credibility of Online Celebrities’ Instagram Profiles in Influencing the Purchase Decisions of Young Female Users, Computers in Human Behaviour, [e - journal] Available Online: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.chb.2016.11.009 [Accessed 28th December 2017] Evans, M (2017) 5 Stats You Need To Know About Connected Consumers In 2017 [online] Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/michelleevans1/2017/08/22/5-stats-you-need-toknow-about-connected-consumers-in-2017/#805dd751962b [Accessed 25th November]

Office For National Statistics. (2016) Birth by parents’ characteristics in England and Wales 2015 [online] Office For National Statistics. Available at: https://www.ons.gov. uk/peoplepopulationandcommunity/birthsdeathsandmarriages/livebirths/bulletins/ birthsbyparentscharacteristicsinenglandandwales/2015 [Accessed 8th November 2017] Oxford Dictionary (2017). Definition of Luxury. Oxford Dictionary. Available at: https:// en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/luxury [Accessed 8th November 2017] Polarn O. Pyret. (2017). All About PO.P. Available: https://www.polarnopyret.co.uk/tips-andadvice/fun-serious-2 [Accessed 21st December 2017] Riley, R. (2017) Rachel Riley London [online] Available at: https://www.rachelriley.co.uk/content/ Information/Get_To_Know_Us/About_Us [Accessed 1st November 2017]

Fredendall, D, L. (2016) Basics of Supply Chain Management. Florida: CRC Press LLC Frugi. (2017). The Story So Far. Available: https://www.welovefrugi.com/customer/frugi/adults/ story_so_far [Accessed 22nd December 2017]

Royal Collection Trust. (2017) The Royal Christening Gown (replica) [online] available at: https:// www.royalcollection.org.uk/collection/themes/exhibitions/fashioning-a-reign/buckingham-palace/ the-royal-christening-gown-replica [accessed 1st November 2017]

Hargrave, S. (2015) Can independent retailers survive on UK high streets? [online] available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/business/the-elevator/12053724/advice-for-independentretailers.html [accessed 2nd November 2017]

Sheldon, P., Bryant, K. (2016). Instagram: Motives for its use and relationship to narcissism and contextual age. Computers in Human Behavior, [e-journal] Available online: https://www. sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0747563215303307 [Accessed 28th December 2017]

Harrods Ltd. (2017) Welcome To Mini Harrods [online] available at: https://www.harrods.com/engb/mini-harrods [accessed 1st December 2018]

Snug Creations. (2017) Snug Creations [online] available at: https://www.snugcreations.co.uk/ hand-knitted-accessories.html [accessed 2nd November 2017]

Jamin, M. (2014) If You’re Not Dressing Girls in Age Appropriate Clothing... Think Again [online] Available at: https://www.twirlygirlshop.com/blog/if-youre-not-dressing-girls-in-age-appropriateclothing-think-again/ [Accessed 21st November 2017]

Statista (2018) Number of monthly active Instagram users from January 2013 to September 2017 [online] Statista. Available at: https://www.statista.com/statistics/253577/number-of-monthlyactive-instagram-users/ [Accessed 1st January 2018]

Jarvis, S. (2017) How Small Independents Are Competing With Big Retail Brands Online [online] available at: https://minutehack.com/guides/how-small-independents-are-competing-with-bigretail-brands-online [accessed 1st November 2017]

Sustainable Brands. (2016) Study: Many Consumers Willing to Pay More for, Switch to Completely Transparent Brands [online] available at: http://www.sustainablebrands.com/news_ and_views/marketing_comms/sustainable_brands/study_many_consumers_willing_pay_more_ switch_compl [accessed 12th December 2017]

Kay, K. (2017). Gucci, Versace, D&G ... now top brands target fashion for kids. Available: https:// www.theguardian.com/fashion/2017/mar/19/designer-childrens-clothing-big-business [Accessed 18th November 2017] Kincaid, E. (2015). Why having kids later is a really big deal [online] Available: http:// uk.businessinsider.com/why-delaying-parenthood-and-having-kids-later-is-a-big-deal-2015-6 [Accessed 1st November 2017]

The Kids Supply. (2017) The Kids Supply [online] Available at: https://thekidssupply.com [Accessed 2nd January 2018] Thredup. (2017) Annual Resale Report [Online] Available at: https://www.thredup.com/resale/full [Accessed 21st November 2017]

Veblen, T. B. (1899). The Theory of the Leisure Class. Boston, MA: Houghton Mifflin. WGSN. (2017) Millennial Parents: Retail Strategies for Selling Kidswear [online] available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/72922/page/2 [accessed 21st November 2017] Wooten, D. (2006) From labeling possessions to possessing labels: Ridicule and socialization among adolescents. [E-Journal] Available at: http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/ download?doi=10.1.1.846.5082&rep=rep1&type=pdf [Accessed 21st November 2017] Yahoo Style. (2017) Margherita Missoni: Kids Don’t Have to Dress Like North West [online] Available at: https://www.yahoo.com/lifestyle/margharita-missoni-your-kids-dont-want-todress-112981939828.html [Accessed 28th December 2017]

Bibliography Abnett, K. (2016). The Childrenswear Market Comes of Age. Available: https://www. businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/the-childrenswear-market-comes-of-age [Accessed 1st November 2017] Alcala, Natalie (2016) The Booming Business Behind Kids’ Fashion on Instagram [online] Who What Wear. Available at: http://www.whowhatwear.co.uk/kids-fashion-instagram [Accessed 13th October]

Yoon Rhee, S (2012). “ A Study on Why Luxury Goods Sell and Their Effects on The Economy” DOI: 10.7763/IPEDR.2012. V46. 10.

Image References

Babyccino Kids. (2017) Babyccino Kids About [online] available at: https://babyccinokids.com/ shop/about.html [accessed 21st December 2017]

Babyccino Kids. (2017) Babyccino Kids Contacting Us [online] available at: https://babyccinokids. com/shop/contact.html [accessed 22nd December 2017]

Bain, Marc (2017) These adorable pint-sized hipsters represent the most lucrative new market in fashion [online] Quartz Media. Available at: https://qz.com/1032131/hypebeast-is-launchinghypekids-a-site-and-instagram-focused-on-childrenswear/ [Accessed 13th October 2017] BIRA. (2017) Explosive growth of independent High Street stores in first half of 2017 [online] available at: https://bira.co.uk/growth-independent-stores-2017-compared-2016/ [accessed 22nd December 2017]

Babyccino Kids. (2017) Willaby Clothing [online] available at: https://babyccinokids.com/ blog/2016/04/13/willaby-clothing-for-babies-and-kids/ [accessed 22nd December 2017] De Silva, S. (2017) @scout fashion [Instagram] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/ scoutfashion/?hl=en [Accessed 22nd December 2017] Gucci. (2017) Gucci Autumn/Winter 2017/18 Lookbook [online] Available at: http://www.kidswearmagazine.com/brand/gucci/season-aw-201718/ [accessed 22nd December 2018] Jennings, R. (2015) North West Is Prepared for Unseasonably Cool LA Temperatures [online] available at: https://www.racked.com/2015/12/16/10315612/north-west-pink-coat [accessed 22nd December 2018] White, D. (2016) Princess Charlotte Sits on Queen Elizabeth’s Lap for an Adorable Portrait [online] available at: http://time.com/4302660/princess-charlotte-queen-elizabeth-annie-liebovitz-portrait/ [accessed 22nd December 2017]

Biron, Bethan (2016) Mini Me: The Rise of Luxury Childrenswear [online] Digiday UK. Available at: https://digiday.com/marketing/mini-rise-luxury-childrenswear/ [Accessed 8th November] Boden, Sharon (2006) Dedicated Followers Of Fashion? The Influence Of Popular Culture On Children’s Social Identities. London: SAGE Publications Buckingham, David (2011) The Material Child. Cambridge: Polity Press Cook, Grace (2017) How Millennial Culture Is Driving the Luxury Kidswear Market [online] Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/howkiddie-street-style-stars-are-driving-the-childrenswear-market [Accessed 1st October 2017] Copley, P; Mclean, A: Siddle A. (2013) The importance of social media to SME marketing – how it was used at the Baggers Original childrenswear brand. Cardiff: Northumbria Research Link. Couzens, G. (2015) Princess Charlotte: Royal baby’s bonnet was present bought in Spain by her nanny [online] Available at: http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/princess-charlotte-royalbabys-bonnet-5655835 [accessed 21st November 2017] Cox, Caroline. (2013) Luxury Fashion: A Global History of Heritage Brands. London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts Craik, Laura (2015) Children’s fashion: small people, big business [online] The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2015/feb/15/childrenswear-childrens-fashion-princegeorge-suri-cruise-harper-beckham [Accessed 1st October 2017] De Silva, S. (2017) @scout fashion [Instagram] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/ scoutfashion/?hl=en [Accessed 13th December 2017] Djafarova, E. & Rushworth, C. (2017). Exploring the Credibility of Online Celebrities’ Instagram Profiles in Influencing the Purchase Decisions of Young Female Users, Computers in Human Behaviour, [e - journal] Available Online: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.chb.2016.11.009 [Accessed 28th December 2017]

ELLE. (2017) 55 Times North West Looked Chicer Than You [online] available at: http://www.elle. com/fashion/celebrity-style/news/g26052/north-west-best-style/ [accessed 28th December 2017] Evans, M (2017) 5 Stats You Need To Know About Connected Consumers In 2017 [online] Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/michelleevans1/2017/08/22/5-stats-you-need-toknow-about-connected-consumers-in-2017/#805dd751962b [Accessed 25th November] Fredendall, D, L. (2016) Basics of Supply Chain Management. Florida: CRC Press LLC Frugi. (2017). The Story So Far. Available: https://www.welovefrugi.com/customer/frugi/adults/ story_so_far [Accessed 22nd December 2017] George-Parkin, Hilary (2017) The Moms And Trends Fuelling The Boom Of Fancy Baby Clothes [online] Fashionista. Available at: https://fashionista.com/2017/07/luxury-fancy-baby-kidsclothes-trend [Accessed 6th October 2017] Grobe, Max (2017) Meet the (Literal) Cool Kids Killing It On Instagram [online] Highsnobiety. Available at: https://www.highsnobiety.com/2017/10/09/ivan-zinko-coco-instagram-fashion-kids/ [Accessed 13th October 2017] Han, Jinhee. (2013) Understanding second-hand retailing: A resource based perspective of best practices leading to business success [graduate thesis] available at: https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/cgi/ viewcontent.cgi?article=4643&context=etc [accessed 28th December 2017] Hangrove, Channing (2017) Kim Kardashian Cut Her Dresses Down To North West’s Size [online] Refinery29. Available at: http://www.refinery29.com/2017/09/173866/kim-kardashian-north-westclothing [Accessed 18th October 2017]

Kincaid, E. (2015). Why having kids later is a really big deal [online] Available: http:// uk.businessinsider.com/why-delaying-parenthood-and-having-kids-later-is-a-big-deal-2015-6 [Accessed 1st November 2017] Kirkhope, Ellen (2016) The Rise Of Indie Kidswear Brands [online] WGSN. Available at: https:// www.wgsn.com/blogs/the-rise-of-indie-kidswear-brands/# [Accessed 6th October] Kopf, Dan. (2017) The New, Nearly Invisible Class Markers That Separate The American Elite From Everyone Else [online] Available at: https://qz.com/999078/the-new-conspicuousconsumption-is-a-lacrosse-playing-child-and-an-npr-tote-bag/ [Accessed 25th November 2017] Leach, Alec (2015) How Can Independent Brands Succeed In 2015 [online] Highsnobiety. Available at: https://www.highsnobiety.com/2015/08/04/independent-clothing-brands/ [Accessed 20th October 2017] Maisey, Sarah (2017) Tracking the rise of the mini-me trend [online] The National. Available at: https://www.thenational.ae/lifestyle/luxury/tracking-the-rise-of-the-mini-me-trend-1.628541 [Accessed 5th October 2017] Margelli-Scragger, F. (2016) Do You Sell Fashion Online? 9 Things Successful Fashion Brands Have In Common [online] available at: https://info.supadupa.me/blog/9-things-successfulfashion-brands-have-in-common#.WkwccracZo4 [accessed 21st December 2017] MarketLine (2015) Childrenswear in The United Kingdom. London: MarketLine

Harrods Ltd. (2017) Welcome To Mini Harrods [online] available at: https://www.harrods.com/engb/mini-harrods [accessed 1st December 2018]

Meise, J.N, Rudolph, T, Kenning, P, Phillips, D.M. (2014) Feed them facts: value perceptions and consumer use of sustainability-related product information. [Journal] Elsevier Science

Hendriksz, Vivian (2016) Luxury’s next big thing: Children’s wear [online] Fashion United. Available at: https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/luxury-s-next-big-thing-children-swear/2016080121252 [Accessed 15th October]

Niddle Noddle. (2017) Niddle Noddle About [online] available at: https://niddlenoddle.com/pages/ about-us [accessed 1st November 2017]

Hill, Megan. (2017) A first look at Louboutin’s new children’s collection [online] available at: http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/news/fashion-news/loubibaby541729#RewAULZAPMqiz1kD.99 [accessed 28th November 2017]

Ho, Jonathan (2017) Luxury Kidswear: The Next Big Market For Luxury [online] Luxuo. Available at: http://www.luxuo.com/style/fashion/luxury-kidswear-the-next-big-market-for-luxury.html [Accessed 28th October 2017]

Oxford Dictionary (2017). Definition of Luxury. Oxford Dictionary. Available at: https:// en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/luxury [Accessed 8th November 2017]

Irulea. (2017) Irulea [online] Available at: http://irulea.com [Accessed 28th December 2017] Ishak, Raven (2016) Boss Babes: Meet Sai De Silva [online] Taste The Style. Available at: http:// tastethestyle.com/boss-babes-meet-sai-de-silva/ [Accessed 8th November 2017] Jamin, M. (2014) If You’re Not Dressing Girls in Age Appropriate Clothing... Think Again [online] Available at: https://www.twirlygirlshop.com/blog/if-youre-not-dressing-girls-in-age-appropriateclothing-think-again/ [Accessed 21st November 2017] Jarvis, S. (2017) How Small Independents Are Competing With Big Retail Brands Online [online] available at: https://minutehack.com/guides/how-small-independents-are-competing-with-bigretail-brands-online [accessed 1st November 2017] Kay, K. (2017). Gucci, Versace, D&G ... now top brands target fashion for kids. Available: https:// www.theguardian.com/fashion/2017/mar/19/designer-childrens-clothing-big-business [Accessed 18th November 2017]

Polarn O. Pyret. (2017). All About PO.P. Available: https://www.polarnopyret.co.uk/tips-andadvice/fun-serious-2 [Accessed 21st December 2017] Riley, R. (2017) Rachel Riley London [online] Available at: https://www.rachelriley.co.uk/content/ Information/Get_To_Know_Us/About_Us [Accessed 1st November 2017] Royal Collection Trust. (2017) The Royal Christening Gown (replica) [online] available at: https:// www.royalcollection.org.uk/collection/themes/exhibitions/fashioning-a-reign/buckingham-palace/ the-royal-christening-gown-replica [accessed 1st November 2017] Sheldon, P., Bryant, K. (2016). Instagram: Motives for its use and relationship to narcissism and contextual age. Computers in Human Behavior, [e-journal] Available online: https://www. sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0747563215303307 [Accessed 28th December 2017] Snug Creations. (2017) Snug Creations [online] available at: https://www.snugcreations.co.uk/ hand-knitted-accessories.html [accessed 2nd November 2017]

Spedding, E, Holt, B (2016) How Princess Charlotte and Prince George have revived the retro childrenswear market [online] available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/people/howprincess-charlotte-and-prince-george-have-revived-the-retro/ [accessed 1st November 2017] Statista (2018) Number of monthly active Instagram users from January 2013 to September 2017 [online] Statista. Available at: https://www.statista.com/statistics/253577/number-of-monthlyactive-instagram-users/ [Accessed 1st January 2018] Sustainable Brands. (2016) Study: Many Consumers Willing to Pay More for, Switch to Completely Transparent Brands [online] available at: http://www.sustainablebrands.com/news_ and_views/marketing_comms/sustainable_brands/study_many_consumers_willing_pay_more_ switch_compl [accessed 12th December 2017] The Kids Supply. (2017) The Kids Supply [online] Available at: https://thekidssupply.com [Accessed 2nd January 2018] Thredup. (2017) Annual Resale Report [Online] Available at: https://www.thredup.com/resale/full [Accessed 21st November 2017] Tong, Xiao. (2017) Brand personality and its impact on brand trust and brand commitment: an empirical study of luxury fashion brands [Journal] available at: http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/ab s/10.1080/17543266.2017.1378732 [accessed 28th November 2017] Veblen, T. B. (1899). The Theory of the Leisure Class. Boston, MA: Houghton Mifflin. WGSN. (2017) Kidswear #ICYMI – November [online] available at: https://www.wgsn.com/ content/board_viewer/#/76217/page/1 [accessed 15th December 2017] WGSN. (2017) Millennial Mums: No filter-Parenting [online] available at: https://www.wgsn.com/ content/board_viewer/#/74132/page/1 [accessed 1st November 2017] WGSN. (2017) Millennial Parents: Retail Strategies for Selling Kidswear [online] available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/72922/page/2 [accessed 21st November 2017] WGSN. (2017) Selling to parents; Convenience vs. Experience [online] available at: https://www. wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/74674/page/1 [accessed 1st November 2017] Wheeler, A. (2012) Designing brand identity: an essential guide for the whole branding team. Fourth edition. Hoboken, N.J. : Wiley ; Chichester : John Wiley distributor Wooten, D. (2006) From labeling possessions to possessing labels: Ridicule and socialization among adolescents. [E-Journal] Available at: http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/ download?doi=10.1.1.846.5082&rep=rep1&type=pdf [Accessed 21st November 2017] Yahoo Style. (2017) Margherita Missoni: Kids Don’t Have to Dress Like North West [online] Available at: https://www.yahoo.com/lifestyle/margharita-missoni-your-kids-dont-want-todress-112981939828.html [Accessed 28th December 2017] = Yoon Rhee, S (2012). “ A Study on Why Luxury Goods Sell and Their Effects on The Economy” DOI: 10.7763/IPEDR.2012. V46. 10.