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“I always look for innovative ideas and the courage to dare, to go beyond anything previously seen. Because fashion is the future. Fashion is always a mirror on society.� Beppe Angiolini
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CREATIVE DIRECTION GRITTY MATTER OFFBEAT
6 - 9 10 - 13
MENSWEAR
ANTICIPATING ANARCHY A NEW A-GENDER
16 - 19 20 - 23
PRINT AND GRAPHICS CHILDSPLAY FREE PENMANSHIP
26 - 29 30 - 33
VISUAL MERCHANDISING
THE ART OF THE CRAFT RUGGED REFINEMENT
36 - 39 40 - 43
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Creative Direction
Gritty Matter
Offbeat 5
GRITTY MATTER
“Imperfections are increasingly cherished.” Consumer Behaviour - 10 Key Trends for 2015, WGSN
FIGURE 1. SEEK, BERLIN. 2015
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Colour Palette 1. BRICK
2. RUST
3. THE GREY AREA
4. WORN OUT DENIM
5. NO FRILLS
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FIGURE 2. 2015
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FIGURE 3. BRIGHT, BERLIN. 2015
The build up of overly edited, perfected images are so dense that consumers have become desensitised to their appeal. Forming a backlash; brands regress back to an honest and depthful interpretation that isn’t afraid to exhibit imperfect end products. Gritty Matter prevales across many platforms, including fashion, media, art and photography.
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OFFBEAT
“To offset a depersonalised society, consumers
crave recognition of their personality.”
Faith Popcorn
“Be yourself. It is the ultimate call for diversity and
empowerment”
Robin Givhan, The Washington Post
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An offbeat approach has been evident in designer fashion shows. Robin Givhan (The Washington Post) speaks highly of Rick Owens’ Fall 2015 collection, declaring that ‘It stands alone, refusing to fall into easy categorisation. It speaks eloquently about unbowed individuality’. Such uniqueness was achieved by looking like nothing else shown this season, and by championing fashion’s ability to seperate the individual from the herd.
FIGURE 4. rick owens. 2015
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“We live in a multi-ethnic and multi-cultural period in which there are different trends that create new mixes and new aesthetics. Perhaps the real trend now is to create your own style, without precise codes, valuing individuality.� Beppe Angoilini, Owner of Sugar, Italy
FIGURE 5. MOSCHINO. 2015
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FIGURE 6. ADIDAS. 2015
Creative direction is responding to an emerging societal trend, explained as a theory of ‘EGOnomics’ by Faith Popcorn, which suggests that as a reaction to a depersonalised society, consumers are craving recognition of their individuality. Armed with this knowledge, brands are chanelling their understanding of fashion as a medium for communicating who we are, for expressing moods and ambitions by taking creative directions that provide a sense of individualism. Adidas, for example, have rethought their route-to-consumer and created an opportunity for heightened personalisation with the introduction of the mi ZX FLUX Photo Print App. Promising to ‘fully unlock the potential of customization’ (Adidas), the app allows users to apply their personal photographs to a shoe.
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MENSWEAR
Anticipating Anarchy
A New A-gender 15
ANTICIPATING ANARCHY
FIGURE 7. 2015
Colour Palette 1. Emergency Orange
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2. Camo
3. Marine Teal
4. earthy Purple
5. Navy Blue
“The focus is on themes: ‘the
big chill’, ‘cocooning’ and ‘protect effects.”
We Ar magazine
“I love the ninja aspect of things, the idea of it being some sort of army, the idea of combat.”
Marcus Wainwright, Rag & Bone
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FIGURE 8. MATTHEW MILLER. 2015
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This trend could be described as being “rooted in the martial” (Luke Leitch). With strong military overtones, the apparel makes use of airforce materials and old MA-1 jackets. Driven by the social trend ‘Cocooning’ - “protecting oneself from the harsh unpredictable realities of the outside world” (Faith Popcorn), materials include flame retardent finishes and an aesthetic that resemebles life saving objects; overall providing wearers with a impenetrable shell.
FIGURE 9. RAG AND BONE. 2015
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A NEW A-GENDER
‘A different kind of expression - one tied to the liberation of
sexuality, placed firmly above the gender issue.’
Tempe Nakiska, Dazed
FIGURE 10. MATTHEW MILLER. 2015
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Colour Palette 1. ADAPT
2. NEUTRAL NAVY
3. FOSSIL
4. THE MIDDLE GROUND
5. CLEAN MIND-SET
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A year old article ran by Dazed magazine expressing a disdain for the tired debates surrouding gender, revealed 2014’s yearning for a mind-set shift within gender disussion. Having moved towards a more complex and mature understanding of sexuality, 2015 seems to have brought it.
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FIGURE 11. TOPMAN. 2015
Driven by an attitude of the millenial generation and guided by ‘tapping into a mindset and acknowledging and responding to a cultural shift’ (Linda Hewson, Selfridges creative director), bubbling up is an idea that runs deeper than ever before. An idea that favours style over sexuality and creates a purer, noncategorised expression of the self. Designers are diverting their focus away from finding women’s clothing that works for men (and vice versa) and instead conceontrating on materials and silhouettes that work for both sexes, placing this new concept firmly above the gender issue. Alongside catwalk collections ‘where things and people are neither this nor that’ (Maya Singer, Style.com), Selfridges is set to launch a gender neutral pop up store in March and a capsule collection with influential fashion brand, BodyMap.
FIGURE 12. PRADA. 2015
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PRINT AND GRAPHICS
Childsplay
Free Penmanship 25
CHILDSPLAY
FIGURE 13. AGI AND SAM. 2015
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This boisterous and attention grabbing aesthetic adds a twist of fun and carefree creativity to print and graphics this season. Society has become “nostalgic
for their carefree childhood” Faith Popcorn
Colour Palette 1. GRASS STAIN GREEN
2. PAPA SMURF
3. TOY ROCKET
4. YELLOW BRCIK ROAD
5. DAZ
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FIGURE 14. ICOSAE. 2015
FIGURE 15. CHRISTOPHER SHANNON. 2015
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Driven by the social trend termed ‘Down Aging’ by Faith Popcorn, which suggests that society has become ‘nostalgic for their carefree childhood’ and ‘find comfort in familar pursuits and products from their youth’, Childsplay centres around a yearning for simpler times. Colour blocking and use of cut-and-paste, Mondrian-like panelling work in chaotic harmony to create the appearance of haphazard and reconstructed designs. Opening in July, The Bowes Museum is due to play host to the first major UK exhbition of the work of Yves Saint Laurent, showcasing the acclaimed Mondrian print dresses. This has also driven this bold and colourful trend as designers race to get ahead in anticiptation of the exhibition.
FIGURE 16. SEEK, BERLIN. 2015
FIGURE 17. BEIRENDONCK. 2015
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FREE PENMANSHIP
FIGURE 18. WGSN. 2014
Colour Palette
1. CRISP CANVAS WHITE 2. GREY ETCHING 4. FOUNTAIN INK 5. DEFIANT BLACK
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3. SMOKEBRUSH
“Investigating social issues such as privacy and surveillance inspires an empowered and rigorous approach to design.� - WGSN
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In previous years text graphics have been confined to boxy interiors, leaving no space for error. The invasive nature of modern society has manifested the need for a fresh take. 2015 sees an upsurge of free, expressive handwriting. Scrawled, coded, and handwritten messages are key themes that denote a desire for freedom of speech. A predominantly monochrome palette remains crucial to keeping the trend simple and clean.
FIGURE 19. BIKINI BERLIN. 2015
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FIGURE 20. JUUN J. 2015
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VISUAL MERCHANDISING
The Art of the Craft
Rugged Refinement 35
the art of the craft
“Showrooms adopt an artist’s
studio mood”
Retail Design Collective, WGSN
FIGURE 21. BRIGHT. 2015
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Colour Palette 1. CALICO
2. BLUE COLLAR
3. LEAD
4. DISTRESSED LEATHER
5. HYDE
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FIGURE 22. SEEK. 2015
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The Art of the Craft highlights consumers’ growing social conscience, with their developing desire to know where their clothes were crafted and in what conditions. The resulting look has an artisanal, DIY quality that favours a focus on style and design aesthetic, rather than an overtly campaigning message. This appeals to a highly critical and design conscious consumer, placing the apparel in a context that, quite subconsciously, sets the consumers mind to rest.
FIGURE 23. 2015
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rugged refinement
“Retail environments channel an evolved rustic aesthetic that boasts rugged elegance.� WGSN
FIGURE 24. SHOW AND ORDER. 2015
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Colour Palette 1. COAL 2. SLATE 3. CLIMBING TREES 4. SANDY STONE 5. CLAY DAY
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FIGURE 25. SHOW AND ORDER. 2015
Visual merchandising trend, Rugged Refinement, takes us back to basics with the use of natural resources, raw wood finishes and jagged stone fixtures. Tree stumps act as alternative platforms for the display of artisinal products while apparel hangs from branches, reflecting a laid back asesthetic. This was particularly apparent at A/W 15/16 Berlin trade shows Premium and Show & Order. Rugged Refinement’s authentic take on visual merchandising carries an ambiance which acts as a gentle reminder to consumers about the source of the materials used to create the products they see before them.
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FIGURE 26. SEEK. 2015
FIGURE 27. BRIGHT. 2015
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CAITLIN THOMAS N0425657 FASHION COMMUNICATION AND PROMOTION FASH20032
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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Figure 1 SEEK, Berlin. 2015 – Own image. Figure 2 Bright, Berlin. 2015 – Own image. Kanye West, Brits. 2015. Available at: http://resources1.news.com.au/images/2015/02/26/1227239/939981-6d148ab6bd58-11e4-a005-b478f5906d65.jpg [Accessed 2nd March 2015] Figure 3 Bright, Berlin. 2015 – Own image. Figure 4 Rick Owens. 2015. Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/rick-owens/ collection/39 [Accessed 2nd March 15] Figure 5 Moschino. 2015. Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/moschino/ collection [Accessed 4th March 15] Figure 6 Adidas. 2015. Available at: http://www.adidas.co.uk/zx_flux [Accessed 29th February 15] Figure 7 Y-3. 2015. Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/y-3/collection [Accessed 29th February 15] Christopher Raeburn. 2015. Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/ ChristopherRaeburn/collection [Accessed 1st March 15] Figure 8 Matthew Miller. 2015. Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/matthewmiller/collection [Accessed 28th February 15] Figure 9 Rag and Bone. 2015. Available at: http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/rag-bone [Accessed 3rd March 15] Figure 10 Matthew Miller. 2015. Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/matthewmiller/collection [Accessed 28th February 15] Figure 11 Topman. 2015. Available at: http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/topman-design [Accessed 2nd March 15] Figure 12 Prada. 2015. Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/prada/collection [Accessed 2nd March 15] Figure 13 Agi and Sam. 2015. Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/agi-sam/ collection [Accessed 28th February 15] Figure 14
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Icosae. 2015. Available at: http://www.icosaeofficial.com [Accessed 4th March 15] Figure 15 Christopher Shannon. 2015. Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/ christopher-shannon/collection [Accessed 3rd March 15] Figure 16 Seek, Berlin. 2015 – Own image. Figure 17 Walter Van Beirendonck. 2015. Available at: http://www.waltervanbeirendonck.com [Accessed 2nd March 15] Figure 18 WGSN. 2015. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/52582/page/5 [Accessed 6th March 15] Figure 19 Bikini Berlin Launch Party – Own image. Figure 20 Juun J, 2015. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/52582/page/5 [Accessed 3rd March 15] Figure 21 Bright, Berlin. 2015 – Own image. Figure 22 SEEK, Berlin. 2015 – Own image. Figure 23 Premium, Berlin. 2015 – Own image. Selfridges, London. 2015 – Own image. Adidas, Bikini Berlin. 2015 – Own image. Figure 24 Show and Order, Berlin. 2015 – Own image. Figure 25 Show and Order, Berlin. 2015 – Own image. Figure 26 SEEK, Berlin. 2015 – Own image. Figure 27 Bright, Berlin. 2015 – Own image.
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