THE FASHION YEARBOOK 2021 BEST OF CAMPAIGNS EDITORIAL COVERS
Edited by Julia Zirpel Art Direction by Fiona Hayes Katja Sonnewend Picture Editor April von Stauffenberg Contributing Editor
CALLWEY
CONTENTS 6
Editor’s Letter
8
The Jury
14
Editorial
158
Covers
190
Campaigns
240
Imprint and Acknowledgements
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EDITOR’S LETTER Fashion photography has always been characterised by transience. What is the value of an image? How much time do we give it? What is its period of permanence? Until the next magazine. Until the next season. Until the next collection... And today? Acceleration is the name of the game.
How long does an image remain in our minds before it is
obscured by the flood of others? We find ourselves caught within the great contradiction of the Internet age: on the
one hand, the net is a receptacle of memory, a space where – potentially – nothing is forgotten; on the other hand, images are viewed for a mere fraction of a moment.
Consequently, content and images have become the victims of our throwaway society.
When Marcella Prior-Callwey asked me in the summer of 2019 to realize her idea of collecting the best fashion editorials, campaigns and covers in the world and
presenting them in a book, I thought: yes! At last, a project that shows an appreciation for fashion photography. Even more so than magazines, books stand for something that lasts. This book is dedicated to elaborately staged and lovingly designed fashion productions. There are so many
worldwide – and yet most people only get to see a fraction of them. I teamed up with Fiona Hayes to define our goal: to assemble the most impressive stories of 2020 and, together with a jury of experts, compile a selection for this book. That jury is from all over the world – Europe, America, Africa and Asia-Pacific – and they all hail from different backgrounds: editors-in-chief, creative directors, stylists, fashion editors, art collectors, production experts, photo experts and, above all, each of them are influencers. Our special thanks go to Ariel Foxman, Asanda Sizani, Donald
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Schneider, Florentine Pabst, Grant Pearce, Martien
magazines this year is long. Have we ever witnessed
Mellema, Sara Maino, Sebastian Lux, Veronika Heilbrunner
anything like this before? Fashion glossies have long been
and Veronique Kolasa for being part of our wonderful jury.
relegated to fluff, but they’ve also been the repositories of
Without them this book would not exist.
crucial war reportage, such as that of Lee Miller, the American photographer and correspondent for British
Month after month, we scanned countless magazines and
Vogue during and after the Second World War.
websites, together with our picture editor Katja Sonnewend – always on the hunt for exciting editorials, campaigns and
Over and beyond the politicisation, there was another vital
covers. In total we collected more than 1200 different
change in vantage points. The work was local again; fresh
stories. Once every three months we put together a
talent came to the fore. Travel restrictions and smaller
selection from these collected spreads and the jury voted on
budgets forced editorial teams into newfound
them (the choice being still more than 200) on our bespoke
resourcefulness. As Martien Mellema, another of our jurors,
voting platform – sometimes with surprising results, since
describes it: “This fashion year revealed so much more
opinions sometimes varied. Instead of meeting regularly as
creativity, freedom, craftsmanship and variety. Editorials
scheduled at the beginning of the year, we held our
are more interesting and diverse again. Take note – a whole
meetings remotely due to the coronavirus. Connected from
system can change! Creativity has been used in new ways
Munich, Berlin, London, Paris and Athens via email,
and fresh talents got the chance to show off.”
WhatsApp, Zoom and Skype... But is it really only because of this particular year? In this year 2020, uncertainty reigned supreme. Inevitably,
Haven’t these developments been apparent for much
this book has become a capsule of our strange times.
longer? Shrinking budgets and the departure of big names began to shape the last few years at many classic fashion
Back in 2014, the then editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia, Franca
magazines. And then there was a surprising movement in
Sozzani, said: “...images are the only way you can talk to
the opposite direction – the lavish coverage of newspaper
anyone. And I think fashion is not only about clothes, but
supplements. Have they taken over the driver’s seat?
also about culture, about where you live, about social
Witness the editorials that span some 28 pages, with
movement, about economic movement, about racism, about
large teams encompassing up to 25 people on set.
everything.” This year was certainly not poor in headline worthy events, as waves of social and economic change
Is this just a shift? Will we still see elaborate and loving
came crashing to the shores. As our juror Ariel Foxman
fashion spreads in the future, in print magazines? Our
summed up: “2020 is unique in that there are no sacred
hope: Yes, with creativity, a loud political stance and
cows. Big budgets, huge teams, exotic locales, tons of
courage! We are already looking forward to the next
propping... no more. Once again, the most valued resources
issue of The Fashion Yearbook.
are flexibility and innovation.” I would like to thank Fiona Hayes for her unerring eye and The turmoil of 2020 has not only unleashed creativity, but
the wonderful design of this book. Katja Sonnewend for her
also given rein to more overtly political responses by print
infinite patience and tenacity in negotiating the image
magazines. The convergence of the coronavirus, the slow
rights. April von Stauffenberg, who added magic and
violence of climate change, the Black Lives Matter
valuable insights to the texts. And, of course, Marcella
movement, the debates on gender discrimination, the
Prior-Callwey, for the chance to create this book.
refugee crises... the list of topics covered by fashion
Julia Zirpel, Editor of The Fashion Yearbook
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THE JURY ARIEL FOXMAN In 2009, Forbes named Ariel Foxman one of the most powerful fashion editors in the world. Best known as editorial director and publisher of US InStyle, Foxman became the brand’s first male editor-in-chief at the age of 34 and held the title for eight years. Under his command, the magazine became the highest-circulation fashion magazine in the United States with a readership of over 15.8 million. Foxman oversaw the US edition of InStyle, all 16 international editions, and the magazine’s online presence until 2016.
ASANDA SIZANI Undoubtedly one of the most influential people in South African media, Asanda Sizani is an acclaimed editor, curator, style consultant and cultural studies expert on African fashion. She started as the youngest fashion editor at Drum, then became the first Black fashion and beauty director at Elle. From the beginning of 2018 until the end of 2019, she was editor-in-chief of South African Glamour.
knowledge, she founded Black Editors in 2020, a platform dedicated to Black excellence in media: “The contribution made by Black women to the magazine industry as we know it today cannot be overlooked, and I have made it Previously he had been editor-at-large for Time Inc., and a
my mission to shine a light on these women – if we are
contributor to The New York Times, Fortune, Wired, Details,
blessed enough to still have them around.”
Out and O at Home. Foxman has interviewed personalities including Michelle Obama, Julia Roberts, and Kerry
Black Editors began as a series of interviews on Instagram
Washington. He has been a freelance writer and brand
and has quickly developed into an archive of experience
consultant since 2016 and currently writes for Vanity Fair,
and wisdom from editors and agents of change in the
The New York Times, Architectural Digest and Maisonette.
African media industry. “I think it’s a really exciting time to be a Black woman in media. Now is the time to take
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Foxman is a magna cum laude graduate of Harvard
charge, to put into action the ideas you’ve been sitting on
College. Today he lives in Manhattan with his husband
for so long, and to amplify the voices of other women of
Brandon Cardet-Hernandez.
colour in media wherever possible.”
THE FASHION YEARBOOK
Asanda Sizani by Aart Verrips. Donald Schneider by Henrik Nielsen
With a desire to encourage others and share her
Moschino and Giambattista Valli. With Donald Schneider Studio, he works with clients such as Brioni, Cartier, Chloé, Hugo Boss, H&M, H&M Home, Highsnobiety, Porsche and Wolford. He has received numerous awards, including LeadAward Creative Leader of the Year 2010. FIONA HAYES The creative mind behind this book, Fiona Hayes studied graphic design and art history in her native Dublin, Ireland, and started her career in media at the BBC in London. She has worked as art director of Punch, Company, Eve, British House & Garden, GQ India, the British and Russian editions of Cosmopolitan, and for the contemporary art auction house Phillips de Pury in London and New York. In 2002 she founded the independent photography magazine DayFour, publishing it continuously until 2012. She has had a lasting influence on the face of Condé Nast: as art director of Russian Vogue 1998-2000 and again 2010-2012; she also spent two and a half years in Munich with Condé Nast Germany. Between 2013 and 2019, she oversaw all of the launches of Condé Nast International – 14 magazines, including seven editions of Vogue (Thailand, Ukraine, Arabia, Poland, Czech Republic, Greece and Hong Kong.) In the summer of 2019, she DONALD SCHNEIDER
founded a consultancy, Fiona Hayes Studio, with clients
Swiss-born Donald Schneider started his career in New York,
including Russian luxury group Mercury/TSUM, working
first as art director for the iconic magazine Eastvillage Eye,
between London, Paris and Moscow and leading a team of
then for Fame magazine, while also being a member of the
17 designers in Moscow and St. Petersburg. Hayes consults
art department of the legendary nightclub Area. In 1991, he
as design director at large for Vogue Hong Kong. She
returned to Europe, where he was asked to redesign and art
lectures on media at Leeds University, photography at
direct the rebellious “new journalism” magazine Tempo, and
Oxford Brookes University and on fashion at Condé Nast
later German Vogue. Between 1993 and 2002, he was the
College of Fashion & Design, London.
creative director of Vogue Paris and Vogue Hommes International, collaborating closely with many of the most talented photographers, stylists, fashion designers, artists, and upcoming talents. In 2002, he founded his own studio for art direction and design in Paris. For Chloé he created many iconic campaigns, for both Stella McCartney’s and later Phoebe Philo’s tenure. He also began working closely with H&M, art directing campaigns. In 2004, he initiated their first and game-changing global designer collaboration: “Karl Lagerfeld for H&M”. Between 2010 and 2016, Schneider became Global Creative Director of H&M in Stockholm, responsible for all creative aspects of the H&M brand worldwide. He brought on board many celebrities for special projects, such as Beyoncé, David Beckham, Jeff Koons, and Sofia Coppola; he continues to be the creative responsible for the annual H&M designer collaborations, including Versace, Marni, Maison Martin Margiela, Balmain, Kenzo, Isabel Marant, Erdem,
THE JURY
GRANT PEARCE For more than two decades, Grant Pearce has been an important voice in the men’s fashion world. In 1998, he joined Condé Nast and the marketing department of Vogue Australia. Since 2008, he has served as editorial director for GQ Asia Pacific. He has been involved in the launches of GQ Australia, GQ China, GQ Thailand, GQ Style Korea, GQ Middle East and Condé Nast Traveler China. Pearce’s career started as a stockist in a textile company in his native Sydney, Australia, where he liaised with fashion designers and boutique owners. Later positions at Mode Magazine, Myer Department Stores and the Mark Patrick Agency gave him extensive first-hand experience in publishing, advertising, promotions, events and public relations. His work as a stylist has involved many international collaborations with key luxury brand clients such as Gucci, Dior Homme, Fendi, Etro, Boss and Ralph Lauren. He works closely with a portfolio of photographers including Giampaolo Sgura, Will Davidson and Arnaldo Anaya-Lucca. Pearce has recently returned to Australia as a strategic consultant to GQ Australia and GQ Japan. He has been named creative director for the 2021 launch of Vogue Man Hong Kong and is a member of the British Fashion Council.
FLORENTINE PABST As editor and stylist, Florentine Pabst has collaborated with some of the biggest names in photography. First of all, Karl Lagerfeld: they shot beautiful editorials for Marie Claire Germany, and Pabst styled different campaigns for Chanel as well. She also worked with Sarah Moon, Deborah Turbeville, Brigitte Lacombe, Arthur Elgort, Pamela Hanson, Paolo Roversi, and, above all, she had a special working relationship with Hans Feurer, Helmut Newton and Peter Lindbergh. The Hamburg-based journalist started her career as a trainee at Marie Claire Paris before returning to Germany. In Hamburg, she worked as an author and stylist for the German news magazine Stern. After a brief stint with German Vogue as editor-in-chief, she worked for many years as a member of the editorial board and fashion director of Marie Claire Germany until it was discontinued in 2003. Today she lives in Hamburg with her husband and is currently working on her personal memoirs of Karl Lagerfeld.
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MARTIEN MELLEMA Martien Mellema is a household name on the Dutch fashion and publishing scene. For decades she has played a leading role as an editor, director, and stylist in the creative direction of many magazines. She started her career as fashion editor of the weekly Dutch fashion magazine Viva, then worked for Elle Netherlands as fashion director from 1989 to 2002.
JULIA ZIRPEL Julia Zirpel is the editorial spearhead of this book. After more than 20 years as fashion director for various magazines in Germany, Julia founded her own company in 2017: the wearness, an international e-tailer dedicated exclusively to sustainable fashion. Growing up in India, Nepal, the Netherlands, and
Julia Zirpel by Ben Lamberty. Martien Mellema by Paul Bellaart
Germany, she studied fashion design in Berlin and New York. Her decision to focus on journalism led her to work as a stylist, editor and fashion director for magazines such as Interview Germany, Myself (Condé Nast Germany), and Cosmopolitan Germany. In addition to her online start-up, Zirpel now works as a creative consultant for clients such
Following this she was with Glamour for six years, and in
as the luxury department stores KaDeWe, Alsterhaus, and
2011 joined Vogue Netherlands as creative and fashion
Oberpollinger. She works as a freelance fashion editor for
director. In 2014, she helped launch Vogue Man
magazines such as InStyle Germany and the supplement
Netherlands as deputy editor. Since 2018, she has been
Z Magazine from the Swiss daily NZZ, as well as an
advising the chain of high-end department stores de
outspoken advocate and public speaker for sustainability
Bijenkorf as a freelance creative director. With her
in fashion.
unconventional approaches, Mellema brings fashion productions to life. Whether it’s styling, producing a
Her driving concern: the throwaway society – both in
fashion editorial, or developing a creative concept for
fashion and photography. Her credo: to recognize quality
a video, Mellema’s strength lies in her ability to think
– and love it for a lifetime.
out of the box.
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THE JURY SARA MAINO Sara Maino started working in the fashion industry in the newly opened (and now legendary) boutique 10 Corso Como in Milan in 1991, before joining Vogue Italia as an intern in 1994. Today, she is deputy editor of Vogue Italia and head of the Vogue Talents project, a platform that seeks out and supports the most exciting new discoveries in fashion around the world, with an important focus on sustainability. Maino regularly participates on global talent search committees. She is a juror for numerous fashion competitions including the LVMH Prize, International Talent Support, Woolmark Prize, Fashion Trust Arabia and Who is on Next?, a competition supporting fashion Made in Italy, among others. SEBASTIAN LUX Since September 2018, she has been an international
Art connoisseur, exhibition curator, and catalogue author,
brand ambassador for Camera Nazionale della Moda
Sebastian Lux studied art history and media science at the
Italiana, supporting initiatives that further promote talent
University of Marburg. He joined the F.C. Gundlach
under the umbrella of Vogue Italia.
Foundation in Hamburg in 2003 and has been its director since 2012. Lux was responsible for the international tour of the exhibition “Martin Munkacsi: Think while you shoot”; “F.C. Gundlach. The Photographic Work” and “Peter Keetman. Gestaltete Welt”. His most recent projects are “Return: Toni Schneiders.” The F.C. Gundlach Foundation was established in 2000 by the German photographer, collector, and curator Franz Christian Gundlach, one of the pioneers of modern fashion photography in Germany. The aim of the foundation is to promote photography as an artistically and socially important cultural asset and to preserve the foundation’s collection. The collection includes fashion photography from the 1890s on, with works by Madame d’Ora, George Hoyningen-Huene, and Erwin Blumenfeld, as well as fashion photography up to the present. The internationally recognized collection holds important pieces by Horst P. Horst, Irving Penn, Richard Avedon, Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Norman Parkinson, David LaChapelle and others. Lux is also co-founder of the Archive of photographers at the Deutsche Fotothek Dresden.
Sebastian Lux by Marie Hölscher. Veronika Heilbrunner by Jeremy Möller
Photography in the Weimar Republic” and “Schaut her!
VERONIQUE KOLASA In 1982, Veronique Kolasa created Le Book. What started as a private resource for her friends – a collectable and well-designed reference in limited edition for the creative community in Paris – quickly became “the Bible of the image industry.” Over the past 30 years, the annual print edition has been distributed to an international selection of elite creatives – those defining trends, strategy and image direction for the very best brands around the world.
VERONIKA HEILBRUNNER Veronika Heilbrunner is one of the most photographed faces on the street style scene, whose relaxed-chic “sneakers-with-everything” mantra has been imitated many times. She spent the first years of her career working with the teams behind the camera, as a stylist and editor at Harper’s Bazaar Germany, and for the online shopping portal Mytheresa. In 2015, with Julia Knolle, she founded the online magazine Hey Woman. Heilbrunner co-piloted the magazine in Berlin until the birth of her son in the summer of 2018. With her style and a legion of Instagram followers, Heilbrunner has attracted
Through collaborations with cultural icons ranging from
the attention of the world’s biggest brands including
Spike Lee to Diplo, and fashion legends Karl Lagerfeld,
Chanel, Gucci, Prada, Miu Miu, H&M, and Cartier. She has
Azzedine Alaia, and Yves Saint Laurent, Le Book became
featured in Vogue Spain and Germany, and appeared on
the eagerly awaited Who's Who of contemporary talent
the covers of Vogue Netherlands, Grazia UK, Harper’s
– curating a selection of image-makers, art directors,
Bazaar Germany, and the Dutch and German editions
stylists, models, production services, media, advertising
of Glamour.
agencies, fashion designers and PR companies.
Heilbrunner has recently moved back with her partner,
Through Le Book and the annual Connections events
Justin O’Shea (founder of the menswear label SSS World
taking place in Paris, New York, London, Los Angeles,
Corp) and her son to her homeland in Bavaria, Germany.
Berlin, Milan, Amsterdam and more, Kolasa presides over a
She is represented by Viva Paris.
network of more than 50,000 creatives around the world.
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EDI TOR IAL
Dancing in the Streets, WSJ. The Wall Street Journal Magazine Moroccan Peoples Revolutionary Bowls Club, Glass Man #42 Dulcinea Still Lives Here, Vogue Spain Perfect Form, Wallpaper* A Trench Affair, Icon Italy Tel Aviv, Harper’s Bazaar Germany The Wicked One, Vogue Netherlands Taste Beyond the Norm, M Le magazine du Monde Complete Freedom, Vogue Germany Moda Povera, GQ China
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(Continued on page 170)
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S E IT 18 8 4
© 2021 Callwey GmbH
Editor: Julia Zirpel has more than 20 years’
Klenzestrasse 36
experience as a fashion editor and director of
80469 Munich
magazines such as Interview Germany, Myself and
buch@callwey.de
Cosmopolitan Germany and more recently as an
Tel.: +49 89 8905080-0
editorial director at the KaDeWe luxury department
www.callwey.de On Instagram: @callwey
store. Based in Munich, Julia is a freelance content director, and founder of the sustainable fashion e-commerce platform thewearness.com.
ISBN 978-3-7667-2510-3
Art Director: Fiona Hayes is a designer, art director
1st edition 2021
and lecturer with three decades of international experience in publishing, art and fashion. A former art
Bibliographic information of the German National
director of ten magazines, including Russian Vogue
Library
and GQ India, she has been involved in the launch of 14 titles for Condé Nast. She is currently based in
The German National Library lists this publication in
London and Paris.
the German National Bibliography; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at
Picture Editor: Katja Sonnewend is a photographer
http://dnb.d-nb.de.
and photo editor based in Berlin. She holds a Master of Arts in photography and has been published in Zeit
This work, including all its parts, is protected by
Magazin, Süddeutsche Zeitung and Stern. Katja has
copyright. Any exploitation outside the narrow limits
also worked as a freelance photo editor for the
of copyright law without the consent of the publisher
German editions of Vanity Fair, Vogue, and GQ, as
is prohibited and punishable by law. This applies in
well as Rolling Stone, and has contributed to
particular to reproduction, translation, microfilming
advertising campaigns for Mercedes Benz, Bucherer,
and storage and processing in electronic systems.
and Silhouette.
Project Management: Johanna Böshans
Contributing Editor: April von Stauffenberg is a
Production: Dominique Scherzer, Oliver Meier
writer, stylist and art consultant based in Berlin and has been the house-editor of Art Basel for the past
This book was made in Callwey quality
15 years. In 2018 she founded her own slow-fashion
For the content pages, we have chosen 150 gsm
label, After March – and was immediately picked by
Magno Matt – a wood-free, matt-coated paper with
Vogue Italia’s Vogue Talents as one to watch.
a smooth, non-reflective surface, which gives the content an elegant and high-quality character. The hardcover is printed with Pantone 805 dayglight color and additionally the book was provided with a
The Editors would like to thank the following
deep black color cut. This book is printed
for their help and support in putting together
and bound in Germany by Optimal Media
The Fashion Yearbook
GmbH in Röbel/Müritz.
Denise Alt, Beatriz de Asis, Paula Bento, Tony Craig, Reyes Dominguez, Susanne Förg-Randazzo,
We hope you enjoy this book.
Maria Jose Guzman, Clara Hautecoeur, Holly Hay, Ruth Hoffmann, Constantin Katsachnias, Dana Kien, Laura Lambert, Virginie Mathel, Celia Montgomery, Filip Niedenthal, Ferid Ouertani, Cristina Palumbo, Richard Pigden, Jose Santana, George Speros, Julia Stenzer, Alja Tabache, Alexandre Tagredj, Sophie Unützer, Andrea Vollmer-Hess, Anita Wigotzki, Harriet Wilson, Nadine Wolf and Bronislava Zavadilova.
The international fashion world is not only a hotbed of creativity, but also a fast-moving and mercurial one. This book cherry-picks some of the most intriguing editorials, covers and campaigns of 2020 – and places them within the zeitgeist. In a year in which the carpet was swept out from under us, the sudden loss of stability also gave rise to new creativity, freedom, and surprise as fashion magazines began taking a more active political stance. Presented here in detail are the inspiring minds – photographers, stylists, models, editors, et al – behind this sudden change in paradigm. This compilation was selected by an international jury of 12 that includes Ariel Foxman, former Editor-in-Chief of InStyle, Sara Maino, Deputy Director of Vogue Italia and head of Vogue Talents, and street-style icon and influencer Veronika Heilbrunner. The Fashion Yearbook 2021 is a précis of the protagonists behind the scenes in an impressive illustrated book – a new standard work for the fashion industry.