Vancouver Magazine, July/August 2019

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THE MAKERS ISSUE Meet your new local heroes: presenting our inaugural Made in Vancouver Awards

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VA N M AG . C O M

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Did this charcoalinfused kefir water wow our judges?

Turn to page 25 to find out.

FE ATURES

25

The 1st Annual Made in Vancouver Awards From hundreds of entries, these locally made products represent the very best of Vancouver’s maker culture.

25

City

COVER ILLUSTRATION: JENNIFER TAPIAS DERCH; CULTURE KEFIR: ROBERT KENNE Y

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15 At Issue Fighting back against renovictions.

18 What It’s Like To Meet a man who’s thrilled to jump out of a plane and into a forest fire.

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22 City Informer What happens to money confiscated from crime scenes?

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Culture

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41 On the Rise Ocin swimwear is making a splash.

42 Lucy Loves Best-bet beauty picks with a natural twist.

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44 The Ticket A puppy party, bold new Bard shows and more fun to be found in the city this summer.

48 Reviews Marpole levels up with the addition of the humbly excellent Sushi Bar Shu. 54 Sometime in Vancouver Photographer Grant Harder captures a slice of city life.

46 The Dish The lowdown on a beloved bivalve.

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ED NOTE

there was a time in my life when I was ready to drop everything to open a knitting store. I loved, loved, loved making things with my hands (and still do), but even more so, I cherished the community I had built around it. I had a weekly knitting group (called Knitting in the Buff because we adored Buffy the Vampire Slayer and obsessively watched it while we knitted one, purled two), and I had a vision for what my future shop would be. Fantastic yarns, of course, but also a bake shop (snacking is key) and a liquor license (wine is, too). It was about creating a buzzy community space and celebrating a craft through which people can feel they are part of something.

No, that didn’t happen. Instead, the community I’m now happy to be part of is in the pages of this magazine. Magazines like ours create and celebrate community spaces—an effect that was a huge driver for the creation of our first Made in Vancouver Awards this year (page 25). While I did not take that plunge into becoming a full-time part of the maker culture in this city (at least not yet), Vancouver is home to a thriving community of those that did, and I’m so thrilled to be shining a spotlight on them here.

We put out a call for entries this past January, creating seven categories: Food, Drink, Style, Home, Beauty, Fitness/Outdoors and Wild Card.

Makers from all over the Lower Mainland submitted their favourite picks from their lines, and our judges gathered to narrow them down to the finalists for each category, and then the ultimate winners.

It isn’t the first time we’ve hosted an awards program (we’ve been running our Restaurant Awards for over 30 years, of course), but it was certainly one of the fastest to be embraced by its community. Friends shared it with their fellow makers, encouraging one another to enter—and each supporting the other to win a place on these pages. The entries from our food category alone covered every surface of the VanMag cafeteria—and so locking in a nod (and then clutching the top winner slot, as ChocolaTas did with their salted milk chocolate caramels) was no mean feat.

We all know Vancouver can be a tough city in which to be a part of the creative class. Sky-high housing and studio costs can make finding the space to create a constant challenge. And so I offer a huge congratulations to every one of the entrants in this year’s inaugural Made in Vancouver Awards—you’re living the dream and making our city all the better for it.

Follow me on Instagram!

Anicka Quin editorial director

aquin @ canadawide . com

@ aniqua

Coming Up Next Issue The Design Issue It’s all about how Vancouver fashions itself: from our annual Best Dressed list to an analysis of this city’s problematic building bylaws, we’re covering the spectrum of Vancouver by design.

What It’s Like to Be a Sugar Baby Tech has made it easier to match sugar babies and their daddies. Someone who’s been there shares the dirt on what it’s like to be part of the exchange (and how to avoid those cheapo salt daddies).

On the Web The Iconic Vancouver Dish What top dish wins hearts in our city—is it Tojo’s California roll, Vij’s lamb popsicles, Hy’s cheese toast, Japadog’s Okonomi hot dog? You decide, in our ultimate food bracket at Vanmag.com.

FOLLOW US ON

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Publisher Samantha Legge Editorial Director Anicka Quin Creative Director Catherine Mullaly Executive Editor Stacey McLachlan Food Editor Neal McLennan Associate Art Director Jenny Reed Style Editor Lucy Lau Associate Editor Nathan Caddell Videographer Mark Philps Contributing Editors Frances Bula, Amanda Ross Editorial Interns Roxci Bevis, Candice Lipski, Jusneel Mahal Editorial Email mail@vanmag.com Sales Manager Gabriella Sepúlveda Knuth Account Managers Trish Almeida, Johnny Alviar, Nicholas Stanley Online Coordinator Theresa Tran Production Manager Kristina Borys Advertising Designer Amanda Siegmann Marketing Coordinator Christine Beyleveldt Sales Email gsepulveda@canadawide.com National Media Sales Gabriella Sepúlveda Knuth Email gsepulveda@canadawide.com U.S. Sales Representation, Hayes Media Sales Lesley Hayes, 602-432-4868 Email lesley@hayesmediasales.com European Sales Representation, S&R Media Sylvie Durlach, +33 1 44 18 06 62 Email srmedia@club-internet.fr

Suite 230, 4321 Still Creek Drive, Burnaby, B.C. V5C 6S7 Tel 604-299-7311 Fax 604-299-9188 Chairman & CEO Peter Legge, OBC, LLD (HON) President Samantha Legge, MBA Senior VP of Integration Brad Liski VP of Content Marketing Ryan McKenzie VP of Digital Kevin Hinton VP of HR/Admin Joy Ginete-Cockle VP of Finance Sonia Roxburgh, CPA, CGA Executive Creative Director Rick Thibert Director of Editorial Michael McCullough Director of Production Kim McLane Director of Circulation Tracy McRitchie Director of Sales Brianne Harper Marketing Lead Chris Hinton Systems Administrator Brian Fakhraie Accounting Terri Mason, Eileen Gajowski Circulation Katie Gajowski, Rhiannon Jones, Kelly Kalirai, Lori North Executive Assistant to Peter Legge Elaina Kohlhauser

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VANCOUVER MAGAZINE is published six times a year by Canada Wide Media Limited, Suite 230, 4321 Still Creek Drive, Burnaby, B.C. V5C 6S7. Phone 604-2997311; fax 604-299-9188. Copyright 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the publisher’s written permission. Not responsible for unsolicited editorial material. Privacy Policy: On occasion, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened organizations whose product or service might interest you. If you prefer that we not share your name and address (postal and/ or email), you can easily remove your name from our mailing lists by reaching us at any of the listed contact points. You can review our complete Privacy Policy at Vanmag.com. Indexed in the Canadian Magazine Index by Micromedia Ltd. and also in the Canadian Periodical Index. International standard serial no. ISSN 0380-9552.

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R E N OV I C T I O N R AG E / F LY I N G F I R E F I G H T E R S / C O N F I S CAT E D CA S H

VA N M AG .C O M/C I T Y

City Lawyer for Rent

This Vancouver attorney practised family law… until he got renovicted. by

Candice Lipski Cynthia Vo

illustration by

“i hate bullies,” says André Duchene. “And this is almost by definition a case of bullying.” In May of last year, each tenant in Berkeley Tower in the West End was given a letter with the news that the building’s new owner, Reliance Properties, intended to proceed with substantial renovations. With that note, the tenants, including Duchene, joined the many Vancouverites facing renoviction.

Duchene, a lawyer who has been renting in the 60-year-old tower for five years, believes that while some of the proposed renovations are necessary—replacing windows, upgrading plumbing—others are not. The owners have requested to remove apartments from the second floor to turn it into an amenity space, for example, and to combine the 14th and 15th floors and subdivide them into three penthouses.

“I have a hard time imagining that these [renovations] are necessary to improve the quality and lifetime of the building,” says Duchene. Whatever may need repairs, he says, could be fixed while tenants remain in their homes. To that end, he told his landlord that he would do what was needed to accommodate the renovations— which would avoid breaking his tenancy agreement—but the offer was rejected.

Reliance Properties offered tenants compensation packages that were higher

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City AT I S S U E than what is required by the Vancouver Tenant Relocation and Protection Policy (TRPP)—the offers varied per unit but on average were about triple the requirement—and many tenants made the choice to accept them and move out of the building, which sits on the corner of Denman and Davie.

But Duchene wasn’t going to leave without a fight, and others in the building were with him. “It would mean destruction of the community, it would mean a real change of way of life for the people and for [me and my roommates] as well,” he says.

“And so the building organized.”

He and a group of tenants spent time exploring options and participating in rallies alongside the Vancouver Tenants Union. In the process, Duchene became so impassioned with tenants’ rights that he changed the focus of his practice, Duchene Law, from family law to solely helping people fight abusive landlords. The firm operates on a contingency basis, so tenants don’t pay unless their case is successful.

“If the tenant loses, they’re homeless. If the landlord loses, they still have a tenant and they’re still collecting money,” Duchene says. “The gravity of the winloss scenario is so disparate.”

In November, Vancouver city councillor Jean Swanson introduced a motion that she hoped would help prevent future renovictions.

(Swanson told a Vancouver Sun reporter that she found buyouts like the one at Berkeley Tower “insidious”—they’re a tempting windfall, she said, but won’t cover increased rent in a replacement home for long.)

Two parts of her motion didn’t pass and are still being researched: first, that the TRPP—a policy that says landlords must create a tenant relocation plan that explains how they will determine whether the project requires renters to move, as

well as compensate eligible renters and help them move out (and, in some cases, move back in with a discounted rent)—should apply to all forms of rentals (such as basement suites) and, second, that the city should work with the province to implement vacancy controls.

The parts of her motion that did pass will allow the city to start collecting information on apartment buildings that are sold, finally enabling it to track renovictions more accurately. Additionally, when a tenant has to be displaced because of a development or renovation, they now must be offered the option to tempo-

investigative unit within the Residential Tenancy Branch to examine serious rental complaints. And, in June, Vancouver city council passed a motion doubling compensation for displaced renters.

But Duchene isn’t feeling optimistic quite yet. In a recent high-profile West End case titled Aarti Investments Ltd. v. Baumann, the B.C. Court of Appeal dismissed the landlord’s case against the tenant, which, on the face of it, seemed like a win. However, the appeal was denied based on the landlord acting in bad faith and not securing proper permits, and essentially states that the tenant’s offers to accommodate the proposed renovations were irrelevant.

According to Duchene, prior to that recent decision, tenants had the right to avoid being evicted for renovations by accommodating a landlord’s need to renovate—for example, by temporarily moving out if necessary. But now that’s substantially no longer the case.

“Unless the provincial government steps in, it is safe to say that tenants’ rights will continue to get appreciably worse under this government’s watch,” says Duchene. He adds, “Allowing loopholes to exist allows landlords to end tenancies without proper cause and implement new leases at market rates. The Aarti Investments case potentially threatens the entire belowmarket-rate rental stock in B.C.” As for Duchene’s own situation, the city gave Reliance a conditional approval (which at this stage doesn’t mean much) of the permits required to renovate, and now it’s just a waiting game to see what the amended plan will look like. “I love my home, I love my roommates, and we have a great situation here,” he says. “What do you do when you see something wrong happening? And it’s in your backyard? You fight it.”

If the tenant loses, they’re homeless.

If the landlord loses, they still have a tenant and they’re still collecting money.

The gravity of the win-loss scenario is so disparate.” rarily move out, with the ability to return with their tenancy agreement intact—at the same rental rate.

Some cities have rolled out stronger protections to deter landlords from renovicting. Port Coquitlam, for example, created a bylaw in March ensuring that affected renters can move back into their previous homes without a rent increase. And it seems to be working—residents of Bonnie Brae Apartments on that city’s Western Drive were successful in their fight against a mass eviction in late May. That same month, the B.C. government announced it would work on boosting education on tenancy rules and launch a new

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City W H AT I T ’ S L I K E T O

pretty much as close as possible to Vancouver, my hometown, and I was about to go as far away as you can and still work for BC Wildfire.

And, yeah, at first everyone judged me for being a city boy. But I ended up meeting the rest of the rookies Smokejumping is an integral part of fighting B.C.’s (there were 10 of us), and it was kind devastating wildfires. of special because we were all just (And, bonus: it’s a real thrill.) figuring it out. We were strangers, and then a week later we were best friends.

by Tobin Caddell But before we could smokejump, we had to go through boot camp. It was 10 hours a day, most of which was i’d been fighting wildfires for learning about jumping out of planes, three summers at Cultus Lake, and how to land, how to do a letdown if you I loved it. But I knew I wouldn’t be got caught in a tree. doing the job forever, so I wanted Fort St. John was in full-on to experience everything it had to evacuation mode at the time and offer. And because I was on a unit literally on fire. The worst part of the crew on the coast, no one knew about job (and it’s not close) is seeing cities Parattack or smokejumping, other than that you got to jump out of planes deal with the devastation... but it also to fight fires in remote areas. It was all motivates you to help out. So we’d go out at night to moonlight as forest legend and hearsay. It both intrigued and scared me, in a way, but I thought firefighters on the ground, and get up the next morning for smokejumping it was something I should apply for. boot camp.

Everyone on the coast said you Soon, though, it was go time. need seven years of experience A few years ago, a guy who used and had to be a crew leader, all that to work for Parattack donated this stuff. They’d talk about meeting a massive gong. So in between fires, smokejumper or a friend of a friend we’re all at the base, waiting for the who was one. But I threw my name in next assignment. The phone rings, the hat. And, somehow, it worked. and everyone drops what they’re So I headed up north to Fort St. doing and turns their attention to the John for the summer. I didn’t know guy answering it. He takes down some anyone, and I didn’t know anything notes, hangs up and calmly walks over about the town. At Cultus, I was

Fired Up

to the gong and smashes it.

And everyone just goes nuts.

The crew scheduled for the fire immediately makes for the rack and starts putting on their gear.

“Thunderstruck”—or something else, usually by AC/DC—comes on the stereo. And then the garage door slowly opens and you can see the plane revving up.

Everyone’s hooting and hollering, the music’s blasting, and you’re already walking slow because you’re in all this gear. So you feel like you’re in Top Gun, just strutting in slow motion to the aircraft.

The program has two planes—a Twin Otter, with a capacity of about six jumpers (two crews), and a DC-3, which can hold around 13 and is the same type of aircraft used in the Second World War. You could be called to anyplace in the province, and usually you’d be able to make it there in two hours.

When you’re in the plane, everyone is at the window, going “Okay, there’s the fire; that’s going to be the water source and that’s going to be the drop zone.” You’re thinking of everything before you hit the ground so you have an idea of where it’s all going to be.

You typically jump in pairs. I’ll go, and then my partner will jump immediately after me. The plane circles around to the exit point—two minutes, and the next pair goes.

SMOKE JUMPERS: AL AMY; TOBIN CADDELL: COURTESY BC WILDFIRE SERVICE

Everyone’s hooting and hollering, the music’s blasting and you’re already walking slow, because you’re in all this gear.

So you feel like you’re in Top Gun.

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At the beginning, I was terrified. I’d hoist myself out of the plane as hard as I could, shut my eyes tight and scream my count at the top of my lungs: “PUSH THOUSAND, TWO THOUSAND, THREE THOUSAND, FOUR THOUSAND, CHECK THOUSAND”, and at “check thousand” I would look up and pray that I saw a beautiful blue and white canopy.

But after the first few times, it became something I craved. I wanted back up in the air. I loved the feeling of jumping out of the plane. I started opening my eyes and enjoying the ride through the skies with one of my new friends.

Your gear gets dropped in after you, and each crew of three begins doing their separate roles—Alpha is the crew leader, Bravo is the second in command and Charlie is usually the rookie.

Water typically comes from the nearest source, like a river, creek, lake, whatever. It’s B.C., so there’s almost always one around. Of course, if there’s no water source, you’re going to be digging.

Usually with Parattack, it’s before the fire gets huge. You’re trying to mitigate it. It could be big, but it’s not going to be a massive one like you hear about on the news.

Last summer was tough. It was the first time in five years I didn’t spend the season in the brush.

When you read this, I’ll be back out there for one more tour. And I can’t wait. It’s just a very unique thing— something I took such a risk on— and it’s benefited me hugely.

Oh, and they also teach you how to sew (because jumpers stitch the cargo parachutes), so I surprised my whole family one Christmas with handmade bags.

It didn’t help with my city-boy reputation, though.

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CIT Y INFORMER

Where Does Money Go When It’s Confiscated? by

Stacey McLachlan Byron Eggenschwiler

illustration by

It’s a question I hear time and time again: “How can I get a deal on a Pontiac Sunfire and meet hot singles in my area?” Dear readers, look no further than your local police auction.

At these fast-paced events, everything from cars riddled with bullet holes to Jet Skis riddled with bullet holes is up for grabs, but there’s one product frequently collected from crime scenes that doesn’t ever make it to the block: cold hard cash.

I don’t know who first said that crime doesn’t pay (Shakespeare?

McGruff the Crime Dog?), but getting paid is literally the motivation behind 90 percent of all crime. That means police are constantly hauling cash from crime scenes, but where does it go from there? Essentially, if a bad guy (or girl! As a feminist, I believe it’s important to note that women can be master criminals, too) has made half a million from drugs and then is found guilty, the Crown has the option to take that money away and redistribute it to crime prevention grants across the country. And if the bad person is not convicted but the police still feel the money is pretty suspicious (say, they found it stacked underneath a pile of cocaine, wrapped in a note that says “Crime rules!”), they can essentially put the money itself on trial via the Civil Forfeiture Act, which I will herein refer to as

Getting paid is literally the motivation behind 90 percent of all crimes.

CivForf because I’m trying to fit in with the younger, cooler editors in the office and abbreviation is v hot RN. CivForf investigates whether a given pile of cash is the proceeds of a crime (“Money you get from doing the bad thing,” as CivForf executive director Phil Tawtel patiently explained to me) or an instrument of crime (funds use to generate proceeds of crime, which, to reiterate, is money you get from doing the bad thing). If the probability of either is yes, then civil action (court time, Good Wifestyle!) needs to be taken to keep the money. It’s a self-funding program— the money seized by CivForf pays for CivForf, and any excess goes into crime prevention programs for the community. Since its founding in 2006, the program has given $42 million to community organizations and police departments to fight human trafficking, domestic violence and more. So it looks like, once again, crime does pay! To fight crime!

In CivForf cases, amounts over $75,000 are reviewed and may go to court, where police evidence and any other intel gathered during the

discovery process are presented to a judge for ruling. For amounts of cash under $75,000, CivForf sends a letter and puts a notice in the BC Gazette basically saying, “You’ve got 70 days to tell me this isn’t crime money, or we’re keeping it”—sort of like a passive-aggressive “I Saw You” listing.

(Sidebar: What is the BC Gazette?

Are all criminals subscribers? Maybe it has a great crossword?) Anyway, if you happen to notice that the police have your money, you have the right to fight to get it back. After all, you probably just put that $10,000 down for a second next to a machine gun while you were looking up the address to the orphanage you were about to donate the cash to—sort of a wrong place, wrong time situation that could happen to anyone! You just need to prove to a judge that this was what happened, and you’ll get your cash returned, which you can then spend however a law-abiding citizen might desire: like on a murder hot tub at the next police auction.

Got a question for City Informer? stacey.mclachlan@vanmag.com

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Finally, a Canadian subscription box just for women

SimplyBeautifulBox.com Subscribe now to get $150+ worth of curated beauty and decor products delivered to your door each season

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C OV E R STORY

Made in Vancouver Awards IT’S NO SECRET that Vancouver is bursting with creative

talent: between the never-ending schedule of craft shows, farmers’ markets and pop-up shops, our city’s maker culture has never been more on point. And with our brand new Made in Vancouver awards program, we’re thrilled to shine a light on the homegrown makers who are taking it to the next level.

Over the past few months, our judges rigorously tasted, tested and examined each and every entry. We knew it would be a tough gig, but the richness, diversity and talent of Vancouver’s maker scene exceeded even our wildest expectations. We’re thrilled to announce the winners of our first-ever Made in Vancouver Awards. by

the Editors | photography by Robert Kenney

photographed on-site at straight line designs at parker street studios

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Activated Charcoal-Infused Water Kefir by Culture Kefir Co. If you told judge Shiva Reddy, wine director at Vancouver’s buzzy Savio Volpe, that in a sea of lauded craft spirit entries a kefir would win top prize in this category, she wouldn’t have believed it. And not only a kefir, but a water-based kefir. It’s a subset of the growing popular fermented wonder that the judges didn’t even know existed before seeing Culture Kefir’s smartly designed bottle. But this unique beverage—to really up the ante, the judges sampled the all-black activated charcoal version—threw everyone for a loop. “Kefir has always been on the very outskirts of my radar. When we tried it, we were all caught off guard, not expecting it to be tasty with a light, yet creamy, mouth feel,” recalls Reddy. But this drink is no parlour trick—in addition to its I-can’t-believe-this-is-kefir chops, it’s actually a drink that may be the ounce-forounce champ in terms of packing a healthful wallop. You have the probiotics from the kefir, you have low-sugar raw fruits and raw herbs, and then you have superfoods like spirulina and the above-mentioned activated charcoal to round out the health lineup. With this embarrassment of benefits, we think Culture Kefir (available through specialty retailers like Le Marché St. George) won’t be able to play the role of underdog for much longer.

From $4.99, culture-kefir.ca

LOCAL ON LOCAL Bottles of kefir glisten in the light atop river stones by Judson Beaumont of Straight Line Designs.

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Gin by Yaletown Distilling Company

Raspberry Earl Grey Soda by Callister Soda

A new craft distillery seems to open every week in B.C., but many newcomers seem as if they spent more time focusing on their branding than on learning the actual craft part of the equation.

Which is why this classic gin, made by distiller Tariq Khan at OG distillers Yaletown Distilling (in this nascent industry, opening in 2013 makes you an éminence grise), was such a pleasant surprise. It’s triple-distilled with all-local grains, so there are no harsh angles, and the floral-forward botanicals make this a gin that cries to form the backbone of a cold, no-B.S. martini. Cheers to being a trailblazer.

The craft soda trend has been full of promise but a tad short on delivering a drink that tastes better than mass-market options that are a fraction of the price.

But leave it to the brewers at one of our fave beer makers to crack the soda code.

This bottle uses juice from Fraser Valley raspberries and marries them with Earl Grey tea sourced from the Tea Centre in Courtenay, B.C., for a combination that’s everything you want a handmade soda to be— fresh, local and delivering a blast of taste with a clear conscience.

$3.95, callistersoda.com

Trust Canadian Rye Whiskey by Liberty Distillery Craft distillers are falling over themselves in a race to make Canadian single malt, but a bottle like this reminds you that there’s one area that we don’t have to play catch-up on—rye. Made from 100-percent organic rye grown in Armstrong, B.C., Trust is a powerhouse with all the elements that go into a great expression of the grain: baked apples, vanilla and an undeniable backbone of spice and warmth that let you know it’s built for the True North, strong and free.

(Well, not quite free, but still a great deal at $70.)

$70, thelibertydistillery.com

DRINKS FINALISTS • Kensington aromatic bitters

by Bittered Sling • Purple Rain tea by JusTea • Quince shrub by Mixers and Elixirs • London Fog Mylk by NutMeg Mylk • Turmeric Ginger Peach drinking vinegar by Route 18 Shrub Club • No. 82 Amaretto

by Sons of Vancouver Distillery

$39, yaletowndistillingco.com

SHIVA REDDY, Head Drinks Judge Shiva Reddy is the wine director at Savio Volpe. Her previous endeavours include Como Taperia, Boulevard, Royal Dinette, Hawksworth, Juniper and the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts. When she’s not eating and drinking, she is most likely reading Harry Potter, playing with dogs or playing hockey.

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Iris Blouse

by Abel Wear This easy-breezy button-up flutter-sleeve blouse by Abel Wear would make a sweet addition to any summer wardrobe (tuck it into an A-line midi skirt and feel the wind in your hair—and on your arms and legs—as you cycle down the Adanac Bikeway for some brews), but even sweeter is the top’s backstory. As a registered non-profit, Abel Wear employs women who face barriers to finding work, and the sales from its natural-fibre, sustainably dyed garments go right back into supporting its jobcreation and skills-building programs.

$85, abelwear.com

Botanically Inspired Eco-Printed NunoFelted Seamless Coat

by Sara Felts The term “one of a kind” gets tossed around a lot these days, but it’s an apt descriptor for this showstopping coat by Sara Felts.

The pretty, poncho-esque garment is made from superfine Italian merino wool and silk gauze, which have been bonded together to create a smooth, lightweight textile through meticulous nuno felting.

The earthy, plant-influenced print is the result of pressing and steaming eucalyptus leaves onto the fabric—an eco-friendly and truly artistic process, not least because the coat will soon be exhibited locally.

Sara Dress by Truvelle With the Sara Dress, local bridalwear darling Truvelle has dreamed up a fresh, modern take on the big-day gown (think fairy-tale without the froufrou), and we can’t help but say, “I do” to it. The intricate satinand-hand-beaded-lace bodice supports busts of all sizes, while the voluminous skirt—made up of not one, not two, but three layers of airy tulle—is designed for hours of twirling and dancing. Bonus: the dress incorporates lace remnants (cheers for waste reduction!) that would otherwise be unusable at Truvelle’s Mount Pleasant studio.

$2,675, truvelle.com

STYLE FINALISTS • Hand-dyed and woven silk scarf by Silk Weaving Studio • Custom women’s suit by Blair Shapera • Limited Artist Series folio by Lover Fighter • Pebblebellies necklace

by Morning Moon Jewelry • Vancouver Is Special House necklace by Patsy Kay Jewelry • Inspiration locket

by Pyrrha

Pricing varies per custom piece, sarafelts.ca

MICHELLE RIZZARDO, Head Style Judge Michelle Rizzardo is a mother of three and founder and creative director of one of Vancouver’s leading boutiques, One of a Few. The store is filled with curated brands from around the world as well as Rizzardo’s in-house line, offering clients unique and highly sought-after designers who are focused on slow fashion.

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Glass Circle Chain Set by Minori Takagi

ST YLE

Minori Takagi’s Glass Circle chain set may appear delicate—the handmade necklace and earrings are crafted primarily from, well, glass, after all—but by employing the ancient art of Japanese lampworking, the local artist has managed to manipulate a characteristically fragile material into stunning and extremely wearable bling. Composed of borosilicate glass—a substance that, to be fair, is stronger and more durable than the typical soda-lime variety—the jewellery has been textured so that every circular chain link catches the light just so, emitting a radiant gleam. The Shizuoka-born Takagi says she was inspired by the confidence of Vancouver women and wanted to create something that matched their aplomb. Considering the set’s clean, translucent construction, however, it’s hard to imagine that anyone would have trouble pulling it off. The necklace and earrings have a poetic quality, too: Takagi chose the chain link shape to demonstrate what she sees as the unbreakable quality of her material of choice. “The time and detail put into these pieces make them more than a fashion statement,” said Michelle Rizzardo, owner of local womenswear boutique One of a Few and the head judge of our style category. “They’re truly works of art.”

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FOOD

Milk Chocolate Salted Caramels by ChocolaTas We were convinced the world had reached peak salted caramel—Starbucks was hawking it as a mocha topping, after all, which typically means a flavour has jumped the shark. But then our Made in Vancouver judges cracked open a bag of ChocolaTas milk chocolate salted caramels, and our love affair began anew.

“Honestly, we just couldn’t stop eating them,” notes lead food judge and cookbook author Joanne Sasvari. It’s the genius of Belgian-born chocolate master Wim Tas: his clever cream-based filling creates a unique runny caramel that doesn’t stick to your teeth. Pair the delicately salted sweet stuff with a rich milk chocolate shell, and you’ve got an irresistible variation on a theme we thought we knew too well. “The ChocolaTas salted caramels just ticked all the boxes: sweet, salty, chocolatey and so pretty,” Sasvari says. “They’re sophisticated but approachable.”

Tas honed his craft in Belgium, training at La Maison Wittamer, exclusive suppliers to the country’s royalty, but has been creating chocolates fit for a queen here in the Lower Mainland since 2002, running a workshop in Abbotsford and a retail shop on Granville Island. “I just want to make people happy through chocolate,” says Tas. Mission accomplished.

$6.95,

chocolatas.com

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Coco Pandan Ice Cream by La Glace

Parmigiano Flutes by Chez Christophe

Koji Salt by Koji Fine Foods

Okay, La Glace: you’re just showing off at this point.

We already knew that your custard-style French ice creams are quite literally the crème de la crème, but now you’ve aced your vegan option, too? You’ve got some nerve…though it’s hard to stay mad at this Kitsilano dairy king with a scoop of its rich coconut ice cream in front of us. “How they got this so perfectly creamy without actually using cream is remarkable,” notes Sasvari. The grassy, vanilla fragrance of the pandan adds an intriguing Southeast Asian flavour profile, while the Tiffanyblue glass canisters make it a feast for the eyes, too.

“These Chez Christophe flutes have become a staple in my house,” admits Sasvari. It’s not hard to see (rather, taste) why: the flaky, savoury sticks are at once perfectly elegant and totally bingeable. The breadsticks are hand-made in small batches from buttery puff pastry, an irresistible complement to our charcuterie spreads that we didn’t know we were missing. “Flutes are a popular Swiss product and integral to the Swiss culture, but we weren’t finding anything like them in Vancouver,” says chef Christophe Bonzon. “So we began to make them ourselves.”

Did we know what koji salt was before this competition began? No. Are we total converts, using it in everything from marinades to fried-chicken recipes?

You betcha. The umami-rich paste made from naturally fermented koji rice creates a serious flavour bomb that adds a depth and richness to pretty much any dish. “We like to call it our wet salt,” says Koji Fine Foods founder and CEO Denver Mace. The fact that it’s low-sodium (75 percent less sodium than traditional salt!) and soy-free is just a bonus.

“It’s a great idea for anyone concerned about wellness, and it’s a delicious product to boot,” says Sasvari.

$15, laglace.ca

$6.25, chez-christophe.ca

$12.79, kojifinefoods.ca

FOOD FINALISTS • Blackberry Jack jam by East Van Jam • F our Cheese macaroni by Les Amis du Fromage • A sado-inspired charcoal rub

by Sebastian and Co. • Salsa verde

by Solecito • Aquafaba Chipotle vegan mayonnaise

by Spud • Green Heirloom Tomato and Garam Masala preserves by The Preservatory

JOANNE SASVARI, Head Food Judge Joanne Sasvari is a Vancouver-based food, drink, travel and lifestyle writer. She is editor of Vitis, The Alchemist and Westcoast Homes and Design magazines, and she contributes to outlets including The Vancouver Sun, Salut! and Destination BC. Sasvari is also the author of The Wickaninnish Cookbook, Vancouver Eats and the website PlumandPepper.ca.

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Discovery Collection Diffuser by Vancouver Candle Co. The east-side brand built their reputation on a line of neighbourhood-themed candles—now we finally know that Gastown smells like tobacco, amber and black pepper—but, a few years into their rise, founders Nick Rabuchin and Farouk Babul are fired up (pun very much intended) to move into the upscale market. With the soy-based Discovery Collection, they do just that: the complex, layered Vita scent (fig, vetiver and cedar) is pure luxury, and its beautiful black-glass vessel follows suit.

Bloom Side Table by MTH Woodworks

Parker1000 Lounger by Icon Mfg

MTH principal Michael Host has crafted a signature style over the years, but he still manages to intrigue with ever-evolving variations of his materials of choice: salvaged cedar stumps and eco-friendly soy resin. His new offering, an asymmetrical side table that cantilevers a smooth white-resin platform above a raw cedar stump, is light and airy, and it’s firmly in line with Host’s goal: “Bring a piece of outside, inside.”

Furniture designer Mark Cocar’s low-slung armchair puts a twist on classic midcentury-modern design.

Here, sustainable Baltic birch is used in place of the less sustainable exotic hardwoods typical of vintage pieces; the cleverly cut frame is designed for minimal joinery, resulting in a streamlined structure. “He’s taken a classic, identifiable aesthetic and successfully reconsidered it using fresh materials,” says Phillips.

Colourful upholstery options make use of a playful palette—like a little sunshine yellow to combat a grey Vancouver morning.

From $1,950, mthwoodworks.ca

From $45,

$895,

vancouvercandleco.com

instagram.com/icon_mfg

HOME FINALISTS • Layer Up material by Ali Alamzadeh Design • Basketweave cutting board

by Brad Carlyle Woodworks • Bamboo table lamp by East Van Light • Mapped series artworks by East and West Design • Rusty Birch Design ceramics by Sophia Clay Art • Colour Bars platter by Violet Finvers Glass

JODY PHILLIPS, Head Home Judge A former product designer and long-time art, design and culture devourer, Jody Phillips is the director of IDS Vancouver, where she champions design in the Pacific Northwest and connects international and regional happenings.

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Rock Blocks by Trae Designs Though Trae Designs founder Gabby Livsey may have intended her handcrafted wooden blocks to be used as children’s toys—the mother of three started her career as a maker after years of running a daycare—there’s plenty for adults to love about these little geometric gems. “These multifaceted rock blocks don’t need to be tidied away at the end of the day,” says Jody Phillips, head home judge and director of IDS Vancouver. Made from North American walnut or maple and waxed smooth with handmade beeswax balm, they’re as beautiful as they are playful. (And eco-friendly, too: Trae partners with One Tree Planted to, well, plant a tree for every product sold.)

Also on Livsey’s roster of design-y playthings: cartons of perfectly smooth wooden eggs and handcrafted maplewood cameras with moving dials. But the maker understands clearly the appeal of the abstract blocks that won our judges’ hearts. “They’re like playable art,” says Livsey. “They make a great conversation piece that is tangible, interactive and visually pleasing.”

Ultimately, there’s no wrong way to use the uniquely shaped forms: they’re designed for open-ended play, after all, whatever your age. As Phillips puts it: “They’re simple but so fun.”

$48, traedesigns.com HOME

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Free-From Deodorant by Nala Care Crafting an all-natural deodorant that’s pleasant to use, actually works and, y’know, ditches the harmful, potentially endocrine-disrupting toxins typically found in drugstore roll-ons is no small feat. But Radmila and Ada Juristovski, the mother-daughter duo behind Nala Care, seemed to have cracked the code. Spurred by the loss of Radmila’s husband (and Ada’s father), Alan, to cancer in 2013, the pair channelled their grief into enhancing their health and discovered that, when it came to personal-care goods, there was plenty of room for improvement in the natural-deodorant category. And so came Nala, a line of unisex “free-from” stick deodorants that use a blend of easy-to-pronounce, botanically derived ingredients, like cocoa-seed butter, ylang-ylang essential oil and carnauba wax, to keep underarms feeling and smelling fresh. (They’re “free-from” in the sense that they’re free from parabens, aluminum and other compounds that research has linked to cancer and reproductive issues, among other concerns.) Choose from three scents (and strengths): we love the charcoal-and-peppermint for every day, while the geranium-and-lemon-myrtle is ideal for early-morning HIIT workouts and then some. “Not only did it leave me feeling protected all day, but it’s also lightweight and lovely to apply,” said Ana Allen, beauty director of Evalina Beauty and our head beauty judge.

$26, nalacare.com

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Eucalyptus Coco Body Wash by Mifa and Co.

Sublime Balm by Okoko Cosmetiques

You could probably eat up Schmear Natural’s Hibiscus and Pomegranate Antioxidant Face Mask if you were really hungry—a testament to how natural its ingredients are and just how damn good it smells— though you’d be missing out on the benefits it provides your skin. The colloidal oat base gently soothes and exfoliates while superfoods like pomegranate, hibiscus and acai berries help fight signs of aging, leaving you with a radiant and more balanced complexion.

The humble body wash typically plays second fiddle to volumizing shampoos and fancy keratin-infused conditioners in our bath time caddies, but this irresistibly scented entry

by Mifa and Co. makes body wash the star of the shower.

Composed of a delicious blend of aloe vera, cocoa butter and eucalyptus (plus lavender, peppermint and other essential oils), the all-natural revitalizing wash will transform your bathroom into a luxe, multiple-diffuser-equipped spa—and have you lathering up again and again.

A moisturizer, cuticle cream, lip balm—however you use this workhorse of a whipped balm, you can trust that it will hydrate the heck out of your skin.

Formulated with argan oil, tomato oil, sea buckthorn, pomegranate extract and astaxanthin—a highly nourishing combo of ingredients that lends the product a gorgeous orange hue—the balm melts beautifully into the skin to help soothe, soften and renew. There’s no lingering scent or residue, just bright, glowing results for just about every skin type.

$24,

$32, mifaandco.com

$95, okokocosmetiques.com

Hibiscus and Pomegranate Antioxidant Face Mask

by Schmear Naturals

schmearnaturals.etsy.com

BEAUTY FINALISTS • Balance shampoo by AG Hair • Ocean Goddess bath tea

by Sealuxe • Beard and scalp leave-In conditioner and treatment

by Damage Control Skin Fx • SPF 30 VanillaGreen Tea spray sunscreen

by Kinesys • Mayan Magic balm by Lavigne Natural Skincare • Ginger Vanilla dry shampoo

by Nüla

ANA ALLEN, Head Beauty Judge Ana Allen, the beauty director of Evalina Beauty, has spent more than a decade working in the beauty industry as a film makeup artist and as a consultant to help her clients discover and enhance their natural beauty.

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Meal Kits by Fresh Prep We’re fairly inundated with meal-prep services, so why get excited by a Vancouverbased one? Fresh Prep has tackled one of the common complaints and failings of the others—namely, in garbage production.

Meal kits are delivered in a reusable cooler each week, which is collected the week following, along with any plastic wrapping—the latter duly recycled. Paper bags are used as much as possible (the company encourages its clients to use them for compost bin liners), while the recipes themselves are interesting, smartly prepared (almost no chopping involved, hurray!) and, most importantly, tasty.

From $44, freshprep.ca

Luna Undies Boxer Brief

by Lunapads

Sixpac Plus Multi-Bit Screwdriver by Picquic

Lunapads is one of the OG alternative period products, getting eco-conscious women into reusable pads since 1993—long before upstarts like Thinx came on the market. So it’s not surprising that they’re trailblazing again, creating a new design for trans and non-binary folks who desire more masculine alternatives to period products. The Luna Undies Boxer Brief is absorbent, leak-proof period underwear that replaces regular disposable pads or tampons, and it’s made from 100-percent organic fibres. “It’s a very a niche product,” says Matisic, “but one that caters to an underrepresented community in the market, and I applaud them for that.”

Back in ’84, multi-bit screwdrivers were solely the hollow-handled type, with the bits tossed in (and consequently lost). Picquic switched it up with a design that allows bit selection and storage to happen at the same time—one slides in; the other slides out. And they’ve continued to make the scredrivers out of their South Vancouver factory all the while. “I was really impressed with the Picquic,” says Matisic, “mainly because I had no idea that this design came out of Vancouver many years ago.

It’s now been imitated by many companies around the world.”

WILD CARD FINALIST • Dirt Happens laundry detergent by Live for Tomorrow

$16, picquic.com

$42, lunapads.ca KRISTINA MATISIC, Head Wild Card Judge Kristina Matisic is a local media personality and lifestyle contributor with over 20 years’ experience reviewing products, including in her former role as host of popular consumer shows The Shopping Bags and Anna and Kristina’s Grocery Bag.

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Pro-Kit by MYO Cosmetic Cases You’re a makeup artist on the set of Vikings, in the midst of an epic battle scene and a downpour: just how heavy is your kit now? MYO Cosmetic Cases founder Suzanne Carter saw just how lacking film sets were for compact makeup cases when she was searching for one herself. She wasn’t in the industry but assumed the pros would have figured out how to turn volumes of foundations, creams, tubes, eyeshadows and blushes into a more portable design; when she found out they hadn’t, the former corporate trainer decided to create it herself.

It was a hit. MYO Cosmetic Cases now counts the teams at Riverdale, 13 Reasons Why and The Good Doctor among its loyal fans (and Vikings, too, natch). Made from food-grade, recyclable plastics (the company will take the kits back to upcycle them at the end of their lifespan), the cases are designed to handle multiple types of products, including pans, pencils, creams, liquids and powders. Magnetic “pods” keep products like pan makeup in place and can be personalized for individual actors for between-take touch-ups. (And for the at-home user, they’re ideal for carry-on packing of all your travel essentials.) “It’s a very innovative idea and one I hadn’t seen on the market before,” says Kristina Matisic, former host of the popular consumer show The Shopping Bags and head judge for our wild card category. “I know from being on movie and TV sets, makeup artists are often juggling so many containers and tubes, and this really simplifies it and puts everything all in one place.”

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Northshore Snowboard

by KNWN Manufacturing

Hudson Dry Suit by Mustang Survival When fitness judge David Webb, editor of Explore magazine, set out to judge the entries in this category, he didn’t want to cut corners.

That meant strolling down to East Vancouver’s New Brighton Park in March and wading through Burrard Inlet in the Hudson dry suit.

“It’s safe to say if you’ve spent time in a boat, you’ve worn one of their products,” says Webb of Burnaby-headquartered Mustang Survival, which celebrated its 50th birthday a couple of years ago. “Durable, breathable, comfortable and, of course, dry, this suit turns kayaking and SUPing into year-round pursuits. After all, local water is inviting in January—you just don’t really want to get wet.”

Webb notes that he particularly liked the adjustable neck seal, calling it a “welcome change from other models that can darn near strangle you.” It’s not cheap—getting one of these off the rack at MEC will run you a cool $1,300—but for those serious about getting into water sports, it’s a must-have. And the secret is out.

FITNESS/ OUTDOORS FINALISTS • Camp Firestarters by Three Bees • SPF 30 Clear Zinc sunscreen

by Kinesys • Beetlebag by CA5 Athletics • Hula hoop by Serenity Hoops • SPF 50 fragrance-free spray sunscreen

by Kinesys

$1,300, mustangsurvival.com

Jason Broz has been making snowboards since he was a teenager in the mid-1990s, but he only started KNWN in 2015. Of course, by then, he was, ahem, known in the community.

“My designs have won World Cup events, innovation awards, been on the front covers of magazines and won product tests, but ultimately I wanted to build my own brand right here in B.C.,” says Broz, a North Vancouver native.

Built to float above deep powder and not sink into it for a surflike experience, the Squamish-crafted Northshore was designed specifically for the heavy snow that the Coast Mountains often deliver.

“This board tackles tight spots and big drops with gusto,” says Webb.

$699, knwnmfg.com

DAVID WEBB, Head Fitness/Outdoors Judge As the editor of Explore magazine—Canada’s most-read outdoor adventure publication—David Webb is firmly entrenched in the outdoor industry. David has been editing and writing for recreation and lifestyle publications for more than 15 years and has hundreds of published articles to his credit.

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604-558-1950 / info@leisure-center.com / Instagram: @leisurecenter950 / WeChat: LeisureCenter垒舍

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S U M M E R B E AU T Y / T H I N G S TO D O

VA N M AG .C O M/S T Y L E

Culture ON THE RISE

SWIM GOOD Local designer Courtney Chew was raised by a fashion designer (her mom!), so the craft has always been in her blood. Also flowing through the 29-year-old’s veins? The ocean— metaphorically, anyway. “I was a swimmer; I grew up in the water,” she says, “so I have this connection with it.”

That relationship, combined with a passion for the environment and a lack of swimwear options that suited her minimalist taste, led to the creation of Ocin. Pronounced like “ocean,” the eco-conscious line of men’s and women’s swimwear is ethically crafted from fabrics composed of recycled plastics. The pieces—high-neck halter tops, side-panel one-pieces and mesh-compression board shorts, for example, in neutral shades like black and olive—are sharp and decidedly untrendy, designed to be mixed and matched and worn for years to come.

Even the size labelling is an ode to the ocean, with Chew ditching the traditional XS-to-XL structure in favour of the names of bodies of water in B.C. (Teslin, Como and so on), a move that also helps wearers focus more on how they feel in the garments than what’s written on the tag. A portion of Ocin’s proceeds go to ocean-conservation efforts, too, generating what Chew hopes will be a ripple effect of more people—and brands— giving back to Mother Earth.

“We’re not perfect,” says Chew, “but we’re totally committed to evolving and innovating and getting better as we grow.” by

Lucy Lau Thompson Chan

portrait by

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Culture L U C Y LOV E S j Fake a sun-kissed glow with Aussie label Nude by Nature’s Natural Glow loose bronzer ($30). The mesh-screen packaging ensures that the mineral powder stays put until you need it—making on-the-go touch-ups a breeze— and the deep, highly pigmented shade works on darker-skinned gals. shoppersdrugmart.ca

NO MAKEUP MAKEUP

k Vancouver-born makeup artist Rose-Marie Swift’s Pressed blush ($31) combines the ease of powder and the texture of cream in a buildable formula that comes in three pretty hues: Crushed Rose, a soft pink; Moon Cry, a rich plum; and Lost Angel, a dead (and non-toxic) ringer for Nars’s Orgasm. kissandmakeupstore.com

p An all-natural dupe for

Becca’s liquid highlighter, Liquid Light ($56) by locally founded Ilia Beauty is crafted from a gel-based formula that melts effortlessly into the skin.

Mix a drop or two with your foundation for all-over glimmer, or dot it on the high points of your face for radiance on a subtler scale. indiarose.ca

Ah, summertime, and the livin’ is easy—so shouldn’t your makeup routine be, too? Ditch the multi-step regimen once the mercury rises, and opt for these barely there, multi-tasking products that stand the test of sweat while letting your skin shine through. (Did I mention they’re all cruelty-free and paraben-free to boot?) by

j Swipe organic Swedish line Manasi 7’s superblendable All Over Colour ($74) on your eyelids, cheeks and lips for an unfussy, monochromatic look that’ll ensure you spend more time beachside than in front of the mirror. indiarose.ca

Lucy Lau

p Local fashion brand

Oak and Fort’s recently launched beauty line includes the O Lip 3544 ($20), a cream-topowder liquid lippie that dries matte for all-day wear. Go for Haze, an orangey MLBB (my lips but better) shade designed to complement a range of skin tones. oakandfort.com

i At once a moisturizer and foundation, Kosas’s Tinted Face Oil foundation ($55) is a godsend on hot, humid days.

The breathable, easy-to-apply formula (just use your fingers!) offers just enough coverage to blur imperfections, while jojoba, avocado and raspberry-seed oils nourish the skin. holtrenfrew.com

j Vancouver-based Evalina’s Dew Beauty Benefit cream ($39) isn’t quite a foundation, but it imparts the perfect dewy tint for low-key days. The moisturizing, fragrancefree blend is packed with peptides, antioxidants and hyaluronic acid, too, so you can rest assured it’s doing your complexion good. evalinabeauty.com

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Llyods Tr

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Sarena Parmar in All’s Well That Ends Well

Dog Days, Comedy Queens and More The summer’s best bets for fun. by

Alyssa Hirose

Rugged Maniac

THE VANCOUVER OPEN VOLLEYBALL TOURNAMENT DATE July 12 to 14 VENUE Kits Beach PRICE Free beachtourbc.com Enter and compete with pro volleyballers for a $30,000 prize—or watch for free from the comfort of your own beach towel.

ALL’S WELL THAT ENDS WELL AT BARD ON THE BEACH DATE June 26 to August 11 VENUE Vanier Park PRICE From $26 bardonthebeach.org Bard on the Beach is famous for staging tradition with a twist—and this season’s production of All’s Well That Ends Well is packing a political punch. The complex comedy is set in 1940s India, with British occupation dwindling and Indian independence on the horizon. Audiences will have no trouble making connections between the problem play’s themes (as in the patriarchy sucks) and present problems: “Shakespeare’s writing can illuminate modern dilemmas,” says co-director Johnna Wright, “at the same time as these modern contexts and interpretations can shed new light on Shakespeare.” Co-director Rohit Chokhani hints at the show’s “bold and risky choices”—to see if all really ends well, you’ll have to snag a ticket.

PET-A-PALOOZA DATE August 25 VENUE Yaletown PRICE Free petapaloozawest.com The dog days are just beginning—this furry and fabulous Mainland Street takeover has puppy yoga, bulldog races and dog-friendly trick-or-treating.

RUGGED MANIAC DATE July 13 VENUE Cloverdale Fairgrounds PRICE From $59 ruggedmaniac.com You’ll be rewarded for getting down and dirty in this 5K obstacle race (which includes fire, barbed wire and a whole lot of mud) with a cold beer and a 5,000-person after-party.

CARNAVAL DEL SOL DATE July 6 and 7 VENUE Concord Pacific PRICE $2 carnavaldelsol.ca This sunny celebration is the largest Latin festival in the Pacific Northwest and features soccer tournaments, live music and food and beverage vendors, from across Latin America.

BIANCA DEL RIO “IT’S JESTER JOKE” TOUR DATE July 19 VENUE The Orpheum PRICE From $63 thebiancadelrio.com Swipe on some waterproof mascara before you clown around with esteemed comedian and decorated drag queen Bianca Del Rio.

STEF CHURA DATE August 1 VENUE Biltmore Cabaret PRICE $13 biltmorecabaret.com Detroit-born indie-rock warbler Stef Chura’s new single, “They’ll Never,” sheds a defiant light on a dilapidated building she once lived in—and challenges what it takes to make a home.

SARENA PARMAR/ALL’S WELL THAT ENDS WELL: EMILY COOPER; PET-A-PALOOZA: COURTNE Y BL ATCH

Culture T H E T I C K E T

TVWEEK.man.25ad.indd 1

THE MAC AND CHEESE FESTIVAL DATE August 9 to 11 VENUE Concord Pacific PRICE Free themacandcheesefestival.com This national mac-and-cheese fest is finally making a stop in Vancouver. Loosen your belt buckle for creative concoctions like mac-and-cheese-y hot dogs, tacos and waffles.

Stef Chura

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the SUBSCRIPTION BOX

ONLY $74 FOR A $125+ VALUE SUBSCRIBE NOW

SARENA PARMAR/ALL’S WELL THAT ENDS WELL: EMILY COOPER; PET-A-PALOOZA: COURTNE Y BL ATCH

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5/21/191 4:52 PM Yaletown Wellness.indd

2019-06-17 12:44 PM

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 26, 2019 | 6:00 PM Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, 900 W Georgia Street, Vancouver PARTICIPATING AUCTION ARTISTS Fiona Ackerman Thomas Anfield Miriam Aroeste Michael Batty Athena Bax Judson Beaumont Shannon Belkin Suzy Birstein Jessamyn Box Kevin Boyle Christine Breakell-Lee Edward Burtynsky Leanne M Christie Vicky Christou Lincoln Clarkes Dana Claxton Alex Colville Emily Cooper Douglas Coupland

Andrew Dadson Jack Darcus Henri Dauman Ross den Otter Christos Dikeakos Fei Disbrow Steve Driscoll Jamie Evrard Sunshine Frère Gregory Geipel Sara Genn Yorke Graham Bradley Harms Gabryel Harrison Richard Henriquez Maegan Hill-Carroll Deirdre Hofer Brian Howell Patrick Hughes

Shawn Hunt Philip Jarmain Krista Johnson Patricia Johnston Ted Jolda Barrie Jones Cao Jun Kari Kristensen Chris Langstroth Kevin Lanthier Stacy Lederman Eric Louie Enrique Manchon Gerda Marschall Gillian McConnell Brian McConville Ewan McNeil Al McWilliams Eric Metcalfe

Candace Meyer Greg Murdock Helmut Newton Michelle Nguyen Christian Nicolay Lisa Ochowycz Pat O’Hara Sally Podmore Lori Popadiuk Will Rafuse Valerie Raynard Christopher Rodrigues Jay Senetchko Jack Shadbolt Ben Skinner Gordon Smith Ed Spence Yasmeen Strang Scott Sueme

Carla Tak Johnny Taylor Joseph Tisiga Tyler Toews Lisa Turner Terrence P.R. Turner Marleen Vermeulen Stephen Waddell Jeff Wall Ian Wallace Michael Wesik Jeff Wilson Andy Wooldridge Don Yeomans Josema Zamorano Pablo Zamudio Debra Zhou Elizabeth Zvonar

Earlybird tickets available until August 15, 2019 | artsumbrella.com/splash or call 604.681.5268

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Culture T H E D I S H

DRINK THIS

BY AND BIVALVE The scene opens not on the Pacific Ocean but at an unnamed temple of culinary excess in Las Vegas, where bread is flown in daily from France, Dover sole from England and, the chef explains in heavily accented anglais, “Ze oysters are Kusshi, from Breetish Columbia—ze best!” And he’s right. We’re smack dab in the middle of bivalve heaven: in addition to the Kusshi, with its salty-then-sweet profile, there’s the cucumber-y Fanny Bay, the tiny, almost floral Royal Miyagi and the meaty and plump Sun Seeker.

All of the above are available at the new 20-seat oyster bar at Sandbar, in a Granville Island setting that’s seriously apropos. And if you want to dive in deeper to more obscure genera, like Hollie Wood, Pacific Kiss or Golden Mantle, head to the new Papi’s Seafood and Oyster Bar overlooking English Bay or the no-frills Oyster Express, whose Old-West-meets-Chinatown decor often hosts the nerdiest selection in town. by

Neal McLennan

1. Merroir (or marine terroir) is the au courant term that describes the flavours an oyster shows as a result of the marine environment—kelpy, for example—in which it was grown.

3. A baby oyster is called a spat.

2. Sergius Orata of Rome invented the cultivation of oysters decades before the birth of Christ.

M AG I C H O U R GRAPEFRUIT GOSE , VA N C O U V E R I S L A N D BREWING , $8.79 FOR F O U R TA L L C A N S Wouldn’t it be great if you could drink a bunch of really good beer and, you know, not get hammered? Say you’ve got a softball game you want to be able to stand up straight for, or you have to go over to the in-laws’ place after hanging at the beach with some friends. Well, Vancouver Island’s flagship summer brew is a crisp, incredibly refreshing gose that has just the right amount of grapefruit busting through.

Oh, and it’s 2.4-percent alcohol. Get a couple of tall cans and enjoy yourself until duty inevitably calls.

—Nathan Caddell

LEGENT BOURBON, $ 63

4. Unlike many farmed fish, farmed oysters actually improve the quality of the surrounding environment, thanks to their ability to filter up to 50 gallons of water per oyster, per day.

5. Many places use the term “buck-a-shuck” very loosely, but here are the ones that actually follow through on the promise: GOLD ($1) Wildtale Coast

SILVER ($1.50) Chewies Fanny Bay Rodney’s Joe Fortes Oyster Express

This may be the most international whisky ever made. For four years it starts as bourbon, overseen by the legendary Fred Noe of Jim Beam, but then things get…interesting. Some of that bourbon gets put into California red wine casks for another year, and some goes into sherry casks for another two years. Then, Suntory chief blender Shinji Fukuyo takes these building blocks and works his blending magic. The result is a highfalutin bourbon with unexpected grapey and spicy notes— that coincidentally goes great with oysters.—N.M.

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Evalina_F

YOU ARE ALRE ADY BE AU TIFUL COMING SUMMER 2019

E VA L I N A B E A U T Y. C O M C R U E LT Y A N D PA R A B E N F R E E

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2019-06-20 1:15 PM PM 5/2/19 2:17

Culture

A FINE BALANCE

Is it possible that the most exciting new restaurant is in Marpole? Sushi Bar Shu makes its case for greatness. by

O

REVIEWS

Chef Kevin Shin

Omakase elements

Neal McLennan Christin Gilbert

photographs by

For years, I lived a few blocks off SW Marine and Angus Drive, and whenever I told people my address, they’d scratch their heads and say, “Oh, you live in Marpole?” No, I’d say, a little too forcefully—I live in “Southwest Marine” or “South Kerrisdale” or anywhere other than what was widely known as the least desirable neighbourhood on the west side. Daily, I despaired the ’hood’s general lack of decent shopping, groceries and restaurants. To boot, my car was routinely broken into, and after eight years, there was no love lost when I eventually decamped.

So imagine my surprise last week when I sat inside a converted Bean Around the World at Granville and 65th—a stone’s throw from my old front steps—and had one of the most exciting dining experiences I’ve had in Vancouver in a long, long while.

You could be forgiven for mistaking Sushi Bar Shu for just another takeout sushi joint or, worse, an express nail salon. The omakase restaurant has no PR, no functioning website, and blink-and-you’ll-miss-it signage despite being located on one of the busiest thoroughfares in the city. Their name is an unintentional tongue twister; making a reservation is even trickier. On OpenTable you can only book in for one of the eight available seats at the bar, and then just at 6 p.m. or 8 p.m. So I broke down and actually used the phone to

Chef Denny Park Tako No Yawarakani

Uni Chawan Mushi

Once seated at the bar, I begin to understand why chef/owner Kevin Shin was so adamant that diners get a front seat to the show.

Rigorous trimming

THE DEETS

Sushi Bar Shu

8099 Granville St. 604-428-1868 instagram.com/sushibarshu Hours: Tuesday-Sunday: 6:00-10:30 p.m.

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Only 19 Luxury Hillside Lakeview Homes Remain The is Cottagesrom f exempt ation BC’s Vac Tax Home

nny Park

Act now for best selection on remaining homes The word is out that The Cottages on Osoyoos Lake is the best year-round new home community in the Okanagan Valley.

The Cottages includes a community centre with a gym, two pools and hot tubs as well as our private sandy beach and boat slips, there’s something for everyone. With over 220 homes sold, the remaining opportunities won’t last long.

With eight different home plans to choose from ranging in size from our modest 1,300 sf meadow homes to the exclusive 3,000 sf Meritage plan, there really is the perfect home for you.

We have several unique homes under construction and all homes can be customized to suite your needs. Please contact our sales team at 1.855.742.5555 or visit our website for a full tour.

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Visit our Display Homes » 2450 Radio Tower Road, Oliver, BC See website for open hours.

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Culture R E V I E W S tell the voice at the other end that I would prefer to sit away from the bar at a nearby table if it meant I could book in at 7 p.m. instead. The person mulled over my proposition for a good long while before acceding, but added that if it were all right with us, he’d move us to the bar once space became available at 8 p.m. Um, okay.

Upon arriving, I note we’re the only diners seated at a table while the eight seats at the bar are full. The small rectangular room still has a distinct “I’ll have a grande soy latte” vibe, but they’ve done a decent job of modernizing a space that most restaurateurs would say is too small by half for a restaurant, given that food and drinks need to be staged in the same galley space where you would put a lid on your americano.

We’ve brought our own wine— they’ve not yet secured a liquor license—and, lacking a proper chilling vessel, the server slips our bottle of Culmina’s Skin Contact Gewürztraminer into a restaurantgrade stainless steel table pan filled with ice. Our wine is then poured into knockoff Riedel stemless glasses. I’m starting to get nervous— what if this wine-chiller insouciance is a harbinger of things to come?

An amuse-bouche arrives next (the server calls it a “free gift” from the chef): uni chawan mushi, which is lightly steamed egg with dashi, minced shiitakes and shrimp with a sizable dollop of uni on top. In a year where uni has been trotted out ad nauseam, this dish plays wonderfully to its creamy strength: there’s a seamless consistency between the egg and sea urchin, with a revelatory interplay between the three umami blasts. The noteperfect introduction dispels any of my previous qualms.

We’re served a small sashimi course—six pieces of nearperfection—before the pre-nigiri appetizers appear: a trio of small

The eight-seat sushi bar

dishes. The first is a large piece of black cod, marinated in soy.

It’s excellent. The second, a more challenging dish of firefly squid, a two-inch-long cephalopod eaten whole, served on briny bed of vinegar-marinated seaweed. But the Goldilocks moment comes with number three—tako no yawarakani, a softly cooked section of octopus tentacle, sucker whole and prominent, in soy sauce, kelp, sake, sugar and daikon. It comes out with a deep mahogany hue, offset by a shock of what seems like Keen’s hot English mustard delicately smeared across the bowl’s rim. The meat has just the right amount of give, and the jolt of the mustard gives a sublime assist to the rich flavour. And then the Easter egg: a tiny square of marinated daikon that has been intricately cut to create dozens of rows of little arms, an über-garnish that would have taken ages to prepare but here shows up without pomp. As we’re ushered from table to sushi bar, I graduate from nervousness to panic—the food is so good out of the gate that I can now only wait for the other shoe to drop. Somewhere, somehow, this amazing food is going to disappoint. But it never happens.

Once seated at the bar, I begin to understand why chef/owner Kevin Shin was so adamant that diners get a front seat to the show. He and cochef Denny (Sungsu) Park proceed

to orchestrate the rest of the meal like the Sedin twins on the power play, a fine operatic ballet of graceful movements, right down to washing their own dishes. The pair met while working at Parq (Shin was the executive sous-chef and responsible for the sushi at the Victor), and when Shin decided a few months back to hang his own shingle, he asked Park to come along for the ride. Prior to that, Shin had spent 12 years in Toronto working at Ki Modern, Menami and Zen under Seiichi Kashiwabara, among other spots, until his wife’s desire to be home in Vancouver won out. Shin couldn’t afford Kerrisdale, so Marpole it would be.

The two chefs begin to prepare our fish in concert, inducing a mesmerizing reverie that can only be described as ASMR for food. I watch the duo’s elegant knife skills as they weave and wave the blade through the fillets, relentlessly trimming them down (I’m tempted to ask if I can keep their offcuts) to flawless slabs before slicing them for the nigiri.

There’s a bluefin sourced from a farm in Baja that Shin leaves at room temperature for 15 minutes to open up the flavour; it’s both meaty and soft, and insanely indulgent. There’s yellow grouper with moshio (salt from seaweed) and kabosu (a yuzu cousin), a horse mackerel dusted with white kelp, a lightly torched

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S is

259 Insi Cha 604 diva

crimson sea bream. I mean, what could go wrong?

And, just then, in walks Masayoshi Baba, the owner of the eponymous Fraser Street restaurant and reigning champ of Vancouver omakase, who plunks himself down beside me at this pint-sized bar. It’s the equivalent of a minor league pitcher having a lights-out game only to see José Bautista standing on deck. But Shin doesn’t miss a beat: he welcomes the famed chef and recounts how he visited his restaurant a while back but didn’t want to bother the chef with questions as it was busy. Now that Shin has Masayoshi here, however, he’s interested in how he secured his liquor license (it came with his restaurant, it turns out). In between questions, Park turns out one last

showstopper of a dish—a negitoro hand roll, comprising tuna belly and head meat that’s meticulously chopped and chopped again until being cut with green onion and slid into a sheet of seaweed, folded tacolike, then brushed with soy sauce and topped with crushed sesame seeds.

It’s a simple dish, really, but all the elements are working in concert. I could eat three of ’em.

There’s an option to add more courses to the $98 full omakase menu (the sushi menu is only $68), but we choose instead to finish with a superbly cooked square of Japanese cheesecake that—unlike some others—is actually worth lining up for. As we’re leaving, I have a sinking feeling: after all this, I actually don’t want to write about this place. I want to keep it all to myself and my friends

and not have it lined up with people who won’t appreciate what might be the most beautiful, purest, most egofree cooking in town right now. But I glance up, and as Shin is standing at the tiny sink again, cleaning his own prep dishes while Park dices the tuna for Masayoshi’s hand roll, my heart breaks. I do a quick calculation of the cost of the ingredients (the bluefin from Mexico alone rings in at a whopping $40 per pound), so at $98 for the entire omakase experience, I can’t fathom how Shin can make a profit, even if he sells out all seats every night. Masayoshi charges $145 for a similar meal (and that’s a good deal), and Tojo’s starts at $180. None of it makes sense: not the cost, not the location, not the space. And not the fact that Marpole is now a dining destination.

Summer i s h e re .

2596 Granville St. Inside Edward Chapman Womens 604 559 8593 divalingerie.ca

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1

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RESTAURANT AWARDS

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ON APRIL 29TH, the city’s best chefs, sommeliers, bartenders and restaurateurs turned up at the Sheraton Vancouver Wall Centre in droves for the Oscars of the culinary industry— Vancouver magazine’s 30th Annual Restaurant Awards.

Congratulations to all of this year’s winners! Here are some highlights from the event.

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8.

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Sheraton Vancouver Wall Centre prepares their selection of West Coast bites Russian Standard Vodka serving their new Moscow Mules Maru Korean Bistro’s dish, Mul-Hoi Chef Showcase canapés provided by finalists 2017’s Bartender of the Year Sabrine Dhaliwal with the 2015 Bartender of the Year, Lauren Mote Caffè Umbria prepares espresso for guests Restaurant Awards judge Gail Johnson emcees our Knife Skills Championship as students from the PICA compete and judges Rob Feenie and Angus An look on.

Guests mingle before the awards Food Editor Neal McLennan kicks off the 30th Annual Restaurant Awards Lifetime Achievement Award winner Chef Leung Yiu Tong with family Glorious Organics collects the Producer of the Year award Bartender of the Year Amber Bruce celebrates her win CBC Hosts Anita Bathe and Lien Yeung announce the highly coveted Restaurant of the Year For the second year in a row, the St. Lawrence team celebrates winning Restaurant of the Year The Restaurant Awards after-party kicks off at The Victor with lively entertainment Hors d’oeuvres by The Victor The Victor bartender prepares their signature Parq Mules

RAThankYouJULAUG19DPS_as.indd p52-53_Ads_JulyAug.indd 52 All Pages

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PROMOTION

4

THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS VENUE SPONSOR

MEDIA SPONSOR

INDUSTRY SPONSOR

8

9

KNIFE SKILLS SPONSOR

GOLD SPONSORS

13

12

ACCOUNTING SPONSOR

RENTAL SPONSOR

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AFTER-PARTY SPONSOR

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PHOTOS BY ALLISON KUHL

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A/V SPONSOR

SILVER SPONSORS Andina Brewing | Caffè Umbria | Culmina Family Estate Winery Domenica Fiore | Gordon Food Service | Grateful Wines Nude Vodka Soda | Oliver Osoyoos Wines Ponderosa Mushrooms | Poplar Grove | Red Truck Beer Richard Massey Wines and Spirits | Roust | Shaw Steel and Oak | Sysco | Tinhorn | Trimpac Meats

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Culture S O M E T I M E I N VA N C O U V E R

9:03 P.M.

KITS BE ACH BASKE TBALL COURT

W

Long summer days just mean there are that many more hours to chase those hoop dreams. photograph by

Grant Harder

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WIN

a Long Weekend for Two in Berlin!

For more info please visit

germanwinecanada.com

Discover cool wines, cool styles and cool flavours.

Dry Riesling. Luscious Pinot Noir. Crisp Pinot Gris.

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2019-06-20 12:33 PM

FrosĂŠ

TM

Back by popular demand, your favourite summer cocktail. rosĂŠ wine, strawberries, elderflower, smirnoff vodka and lemon.

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