Vancouver Magazine, January/February 2020

WINTER 2020

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THE DRINKS ISSUE THE CITY’S TOP BEERS, WINES, BARS + MORE

THE BEST BARS IN THE CITY Our first annual celebration of a very good night out.

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COVER ILLUSTRATION: MAI LY DEGNAN; K ATIE INGRAM: TANYA GOEHRING; AT ISSUE: CYNTHIA VO; MINORI TAK AGI: K YOKO FIERRO; HOROSCOPES: K AT Y LEMAY; CIT Y INFORMER: BYRON EGG GGENSCHWILER

VA N M AG .C O M

W I N T E R 2 0 2 0 // VO LU M E 5 3 // N U M B E R 1

COVER ILLUSTRATION: MAI LY DEGNAN; K ATIE INGRAM: TANYA GOEHRING; AT ISSUE: CYNTHIA VO; MINORI TAK AGI: K YOKO FIERRO; HOROSCOPES: K AT Y LEMAY; CIT Y INFORMER: BYRON EGG GGENSCHWILER

FE ATURE

27

Where to Drink Next Wet your whistle, impress your date, drown your sorrows or celebrate your wins with the help of our first annual guide to the city’s very best bars and bevs. Cheers to a new year of good times.

43

Ramblin’ Man

Our 2020 Bartender of the Year knows how to mix it up. Our drinking special starts on page 27.

31

City 15

15 At Issue How the city is falling behind in accessibility standards—and failing its residents.

18 City Informer What gives the Commodore Ballroom dance floor so much bounce?

18

24 The Disruptor Meet one of the teenagers shaping Vancouver’s climate crisis conversation.

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Culture 53 On the Rise Minori Takagi’s glass jewellery shines on.

56 The Ticket Must-see events happening this season.

54 Hot Takes Warm up your winter wardrobe.

58 Reviews Papi’s Oyster Bar takes a run at revitalizing a legendary West End location.

55 Lucy Loves “Check” out these ontrend plaid pieces.

64

What it’s like to walk (and walk, and walk, and walk) your way from False Creek to Port Moody and see your city from a whole new perspective.

62 The Dish Artisanal flour in the spotlight.

64 Horoscopes Looking to the stars.

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Y O U A R E A L R E A DY B E AU T I F U L

Publisher Samantha Legge Editorial Director Anicka Quin Creative Director Catherine Mullaly Executive Editor Stacey McLachlan Food Editor Neal McLennan Associate Art Director Jenny Reed Associate Editor Nathan Caddell Assistant Editor Alyssa Hirose Videographer Mark Philps Contributing Editors Frances Bula, Amanda Ross Editorial Interns Elia Essen, Jusneel Mahal Editorial Email mail@vanmag.com Sales Manager Gabriella Sepúlveda Knuth Account Managers Johnny Alviar, Matty Lambert, Michelle Rickards Digital Ad/Marketing Coordinator Alexandra Day Senior Production Manager Kristina Borys Production Coordination/Design Nadine Gieseler Sales Email gsepulveda@canadawide.com National Media Sales Gabriella Sepúlveda Knuth Email gsepulveda@canadawide.com U.S. Sales Representation, Hayes Media Sales Lesley Hayes, 602-432-4868 Email lesley@hayesmediasales.com Office Manager/Sales Coordinator Lori North European Sales Representation, S&R Media Sylvie Durlach, +33 1 44 18 06 62 Email srmedia@club-internet.fr

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VANCOUVER MAGAZINE is published six times a year by Canada Wide Media Limited, Suite 230, 4321 Still Creek Drive, Burnaby, B.C. V5C 6S7. Phone 604-2997311; fax 604-299-9188. Copyright 2020. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the publisher’s written permission. Not responsible for unsolicited editorial material. Privacy Policy: On occasion, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened organizations whose product or service might interest you. If you prefer that we not share your name and address (postal and/ or email), you can easily remove your name from our mailing lists by reaching us at any of the listed contact points. You can review our complete Privacy Policy at Vanmag.com. Indexed in the Canadian Magazine Index by Micromedia Ltd. and also in the Canadian Periodical Index. International standard serial no. ISSN 0380-9552.

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Cheers to This Issue as an effect of my very mature (wise?) age, I have been a patron of many, many bars over the years. My first, on a ski trip to Mont-Tremblant at the age of 15 (oh, the wild 1990s in Quebec, when the age of majority was just a suggestion), was memorable both for how it cemented a love of the eternally classy rye and Coke (a drink that would carry me well into my 20s and, ahem, occasionally still today) and for “Spirit in the Sky,” that ski-bar anthem that always packed the dance floor.

These days, my criteria for what makes a great bar are decidedly more judicious: fewer well drinks, more smart cocktails and a crowd that doesn’t take itself too seriously. And this issue, the team at VanMag decided it was time for us to give proper attention to the city’s bars, breweries and wine culture with a special edition all their own. (Faithful readers will note that the winners named in this issue were once a small part of the annual Restaurant Awards, still to come in May 2020.)

Food editor Neal McLennan and associate editor Nathan Caddell—who’s also our staff beer nerd—have polled the pros in the industry and members of our Restaurant Awards judging panel to create this first annual Drinks Issue, the heart of which is the awards for the city’s Bar of the Year, Bartender of the Year, Best Brewery and more. It’s a pretty great checklist of where you should find your discerning self on a given night out in the city—and includes a great longlist of locally made craft beers to make your way through, season by season.

And speaking of where to find yourself: be sure to check out writer and editor Alyssa Hirose’s new Star Power horoscopes on our back page. She’s ready to guide you wisely into 2020, ideally with a smart cocktail in hand.

Coming Up Next Issue The Film Issue A day in the life of Vancouver’s booming film industry: pulling back the curtain on the Hallmark movie machine, a spotlight on the city’s minor celebrities, and more.

Millennials Buy In For years people have said that millennials couldn’t afford home ownership or they didn’t want it—but now they’re getting hitched, landing more lucrative gigs and having kids, and they’re moving in. So what does it mean for the future of Vancouver real estate when the massive millennial demographic buys in?

On the Web Real Weddings You may have noticed we’ve adopted Real Weddings under our VanMag umbrella (flip this magazine over!).

You’ll find more where that came from over at Realweddings.ca, from affordable venues to unique decor ideas.

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AC C E S S I N F O R M AT I O N / F LO O R E D AT T H E C O M M O D O R E / C L I M AT E K I D S

VA N M AG .C O M/C I T Y

City A City for Everyone?

Vancouver has paid lip service to building an inclusive city that serves those with disabilities.

But the focus on mobility has left many on the outs. by

Becca Clarkson Cynthia Vo

illustration by

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Carmen Papalia is tired of just being “accommodated.” The artist would prefer to use a marching band in lieu of his white cane, and he’s on a mission to demonstrate the ways in which Vancouver’s approach to accessibility lacks the necessary creativity.

“Of course I don’t expect the government to provide me with a marching band,” Papalia says after describing Mobility Device, his performance art piece in which said band assists a non-visual learner (a term he prefers over “blind” or “visually impaired”) on a walk through the city.

In fact, Papalia doesn’t expect much from of the government at all, or from Canada’s unprecedented accessibility act, Bill C-81, which carries the goal of achieving a barrier-free country by 2040. Since the act came into effect— in July 2019—British Columbia has begun to hold consultations around establishing provincial standards of the same kind. Meanwhile, Vancouver’s recent 10-year cultural plan is focused on equity, inclusion, accessibility and reconciliation in the arts sector. But even with these efforts, Papalia says the common accessibility practices of institutions fail to address the complex experiences of Canada’s largest minority group, many of whom are disabled

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City AT I S S U E by social, cultural and political conditions.

Most accessibility standards focus on mobility—the universal symbol for disability is a person in a wheelchair, after all—rather than sensory or cognitive impairments, mental illness or chronic illness.

The variety of lived experiences within the disability community can act as a barrier when it comes to representation, according to accessibility consultant Arnold Cheng. While the City of Vancouver has a volunteer-based Persons with Disabilities Advisory Committee, staff also consult with groups the Rick Hansen Foundation, the Blusson Spinal Cord Centre and SPARC BC. But still, many viewpoints are underrepresented.

“There’s no unified group when it comes to figuring out accessibility, which creates a fractured community when, for example, a group like Spinal Cord has more of a wheelchair-centred point of view,” says Cheng, who uses a wheelchair himself, because of an inflammatory condition that caused damage to his spinal cord. “We focus so much on wheelchairs that I think we’re kind of leaving other disabilities and lived experiences behind.”

Cheng adds that social factors are often overlooked by decision-makers outside the disability community.

“For example, if a building qualifies as accessible but the entrance is through the back alley by the dumpsters, socially, that’s not accessible. But in terms of measurements, the numbers don’t care.”

That’s one of the reasons Papalia developed Open Access, a disability justice model that teaches organizations to unlearn ableist practices—to go above and beyond completing a checklist in order to gain a building certification. “My training is more about treating accessibility as an ongoing, long-term effort—a

job that’s never over,” explains a jetlagged Papalia. (He’s just returned from leading an Open Access training in Utrecht, Netherlands.) “I often think about how we should measure accessibility. What is your agency in a certain situation; what is your decision-making power? Can you define the terms within your own care? Is it a mutual exchange or sort of a one-way relationship?”

Many members of the disability community, says Papalia, are distrustful of government intervention in the barriers they face and avoid engaging with politicians.

For example, up until the early 1970s, it was legal in B.C. to sexually sterilize mentally disabled patients if there was a perceived risk they

Many members of the disability community are distrustful of government intervention in the barriers they face. could transmit “disability” to their children. “That’s still relatively recent, so setting a new accessibility standard should address those traumas in some way,” Papalia says.

The Downtown Eastside hosts several local organizations that work to help disabled people who are facing multiple barriers—groups that Papalia believes honour that history while fulfilling the neighbourhood’s heavy demand for support services.

“Support is often multimodal, it requires more than just medical services. In that context, something like a gallery or even a social space where folks can go to meet and find some sort of a community is an important thing.”

Papalia works with Gallery

Gachet, an artist-run centre that works to demystify issues around mental health and disability. Three years ago, Vancouver Coastal Health ceased funding the space, which had a $130,000 annual operating budget, when the authority decided to redirect its money toward institutionalized mental health programs. To stay open, the gallery had to move to a new location without studio space for artists, take on a conditional lease with BC Housing, and part with pieces of art and archives it didn’t have the resources to preserve.

“To think of the gallery almost shutting down when it’s such a value within the community, while the Vancouver Art Gallery gets earmarked for funding in this city every year without question, speaks to the inequality in the cultural sector,” says Papalia, who is advocating more investment into grassroots organizations that are already serving the needs of the disability community.

With so many ways to approach accessibility, we may need more than one act of legislation to successfully shift the culture. When asked what they would like to see from all levels of government, Papalia and Cheng both answered with a sense of defeat.

Cheng, at least, is cautiously optimistic about the conversations the new legislation may spark about ableism. “We have to think beyond what’s good for the disability community. We have to think about what’s good for the most part,” Cheng says, offering examples of parents with strollers, injured able-bodied people, or elderly people who are losing their sight and hearing.

Papalia is less convinced.

“There would have to be some sort of Truth and Reconciliation–like commission with new accessibility standards melded into it,” says Papalia. But given that all levels of government face a huge swath of issues needing their attention?

“That doesn’t seem likely.”

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CIT Y INFORMER

What Makes the Commodore Dance Floor So Bouncy? by

Stacey McLachlan Byron Eggenschwiler

illustration by

I was a tween girl in the horsiest of decades, the ’90s—oh, those heady Saddle Club days—so yes, I’ve met a horse or two. Though, really, I identified less as a “horse girl” and more like a “tags-alongwith-her-cousins-on-family-ranchvacations-to-wait-for-riding-signups-because-they-always-broughtmini-bagels-to-the-barn-forbreakfast-and-I-really-likedmini-bagels girl.” (Are they more delicious than regular-sized bagels?

That’s an article for another time.)

How would I describe these majestic creatures (horses, not bagels)? Large and in charge.

Also constantly defecating, which took some of the charm out of the experience (both horseback riding and bagel-eating). I would not describe them, however, as “nature’s trampolines,” but I guess architect H.H. Gillingham saw something I didn’t when he looked at them, which is why he went on to

When Gillingham built the Commodore Ballroom (née the Commodore Cabaret) back in 1929, he layered the shiplap dance floor atop a bed of 2-by-3 boards and tires stuffed with horsehair—ah yes, that famously bouncy, bouncy horsehair. design the city’s most iconic dance floor and I didn’t (to my mother's great disapointment).

That’s right: when Gillingham built the Commodore Ballroom (née the Commodore Cabaret) back in 1929, he took his cue from the equine set and layered the

shiplap dance floor atop a bed of 2-by-3 boards and tires stuffed with horsehair—ah yes, that famously bouncy, bouncy horsehair—to absorb dancers’ impact and add a little spring to one’s step. This innovative new building technique had been used at only a few venues

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Contemporary German Cuisine. elsewhere in the world, and it thrilled Vancouver’s partygoers for upward of four months, until the venue abruptly closed for Great Depression–related reasons.

Thankfully, the Commodore opened back up in November 1930 as a dinner-and-dancing venue, inspiring the famous expression, “I was so hungry, I could dance on a horse,” and though the entertainment offerings evolved over the

But haunted by hairless horses or not, in January 1996, the floorboards were cut up and sold off to raise money. decades—with everyone from Count Basie to Snoop Dogg making appearances throughout the years to inspire some rowdy bouncing—the famous sprung dance floor remained the building’s mane claim to fame.

Of course, the best-laid floors of horse and men often go awry: when Ani DiFranco narrowly avoided being pummelled by a wobbly mic stand in the mid-’90s, it was discovered that the stage beams and floor were beginning to crack and warp, and the historic dance floor would need to be renovated. Was it the chilling warning of the ghosts of the horses whose hair was in the floors, finally rising up to buck off their oppressors? I don’t know, because, as I mentioned,

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GARY

I was elbow-deep in minibagels at the time. But haunted by hairless horses or not, in January 1996, the floorboards were cut up and sold off to raise money for BC Children’s Hospital, and attention was turned by new ownership to a $3.5-million renovation that kept the Commodore’s doors (commodoors?) closed for three years.

When it came to repairing the floor, believe it or not, there weren’t too many horsehair-tirestuffers left in town—I blame the Chrétien economy.

When it came to repairing the floor, believe it or not, there weren’t too many horsehair-tire-stuffers left in town—I blame the Chrétien economy—so alternative materials had to be sourced. No horses were harmed in the making of today’s stillbouncy floor, thanks to a design that layers plywood, drywall, cork and foam rubber. It may still be the funnest, springiest venue in town (at least until I achieve my dream of opening my late-night ’80s-themed bagel bakery and nightclub called “Tears for Shmears”), but it’s official: the Commodore isn’t horsing around anymore.

Got a question for City Informer? stacey.mclachlan@vanmag.com

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City T H E D I S R U P T O R

particularly hard to ignore.

So three years after Watt’s class had ignited a fire in Grames-Webb, she found herself standing on the steps of the Vancouver Art Gallery with several other students, declaring Vancouverite Zoe Gramesthat it was time for the federal Webb is part of a 15-person government to pay attention. Less lawsuit against the Canadian than a week after the federal election government. All the plaintiffs last October, 15 young Canadians are under 18 years old. from across the country came together in Vancouver at a climate

by Nathan Caddell rally to announce their intention to sue the government for its part in the climate crisis. zoe grames-webb was 10 years The plaintiffs are represented old when she started learning about by two B.C. law firms and claim climate change. A few years later, in the suit that the government’s she filed a lawsuit against the federal “contribution” to climate change government. infringes on their Charter rights, “My teacher did our entire term such as equality, as young people on climate change and green energy are disproportionately affected by projects,” says the now-13-year-old about False Creek Elementary’s Peter the issue. They’re also calling on the feds to come up with a “rigorous and Watt. “I hadn’t learned much about it before, but it really sparked an interest credible climate plan” that will reduce greenhouse gases. for me and a passion.”

When the lawsuit—organized It also hit home personally for in part by American non-profit Our Grames-Webb, who has spent every Children’s Trust—started gaining summer of her life at her family’s some support, Grames-Webb’s cabin in Hopkins Landing, a small mother, Annabel Webb, a David coastal community near Gibsons.

Suzuki Foundation fellow, asked her Wildfires in the area were killing off Western red cedars, shoreline erosion daughter if she was interested.

She was. And though she allows threatened to destroy a significant that her mother has undoubtedly stretch of the area—it was all

Gang Green

shaped her interest in the subject, she maintains that it would be important to her regardless. “I still would have been quite passionate about the environment,” says Grames-Webb. “I might not have gone into the lawsuit, but I would have interest in climate change for sure.”

Joining the suit required all plaintiffs to submit a section about how and why climate change has affected their Charter rights.

To that end, Grames-Webb submitted five paragraphs on how she could demonstrably feel and see climate change affecting her life. That included a passage about how she has felt wildfire smoke irritate her lungs and cause her nasal congestion, throat and eye irritation, and headaches.

Because of the wildfire smoke, the case argues, the young Vancouverite has been unable to participate in a number of activities that are important for her health, well-being and lifestyle.

At the rally in Vancouver, GramesWebb relished the opportunity to meet the other young Canadians who had come forward. The group ranges from a 15-year-old fishing enthusiast from Saskatoon worried about low river levels to a 10-year-old in Mississauga suffering from heat exhaustion.

DAVID SUZUKI FOUNDATION

Zoe Grames-Webb (holding mic) joined 14 other young activists to protest government inaction against climate change

Hopefully, if we win, the government will come up with a climate recovery plan based on science. We’re not asking for money or anything, just that they drastically reduce CO2 emissions and that they have a plan.”

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Time is Money

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Let us do the work for you.

“I think everybody got close pretty quickly,” she recalls. “In the span of two days, we got to know each other quite a bit. Everybody seemed really great, really smart and really nice.”

And really concerned. GramesWebb doesn’t know exactly what she’ll do with her future—“I kind of want to be a nutritionist or something to do with food,” she says—but the Kitsilano Secondary School student is already talking about taking the #84 bus up to UBC if she is accepted there.

It’s part of an environmentally conscious approach that she imagines will stay with her as she grows, no matter what happens with the ongoing lawsuit.

And what does she think about the government’s response to the litigation? Grames-Webb says it isn’t really something the group has talked about.

Fair enough, given that all they received was a canned statement from the office of then-Minister of Environment and Climate Change Catherine McKenna: “Young people are pushing their governments for a more sustainable future. We hear them, and all the Canadians who sent a clear message this election that tackling climate change is a clear priority that they want this Parliament to work on.”

But to the 15 people that took to the steps of the Vancouver Art Gallery that day, it’s not yet clear that they are, in fact, being heard.

“Hopefully, if we win, the government will come up with a climate recovery plan based on science,” says Grames-Webb.

“We’re not asking for money or anything, just that they drastically reduce CO2 emissions and that they have a plan.”

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RESTAURANT AWARDS 2020

Where to Drink Now

This is huge for us.

Every May we publish our annual Restaurant Awards (this year will be #31), and it’s a cumulative effort of dozens of editors, judges, art directors, illustrators and photographers, many of whom spend the better part of the year working on our biggest issue. And each year, no matter how thick the issue is, we all say, “We wish we had more space to tell all the stories.”

So this year we decided to do something about it, and this issue is the result. We’ve taken the prestige categories of Bartender of the Year, Sommelier of the Year, Bar of the Year and the new Brewery of the Year and we’ve given them their own blowout. No more squeezing these stories into half a page or giving just a line or two to a bar that elicits so much love. They’ll still be a part of our annual piss-up party this spring, where they’ll stand before their peers and be properly feted, but we hope you agree that they also deserve the opportunity to have their journeys documented here. And so, without further ado, we present the Drinks Issue.

ng e p

d

21

a

by

Neal McLennan Tanya Goehring

photographs by

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Fun and Games The gang—Edie, Dave, Gianmarco­—from Trans Am are serious about making sure things are casual at their bar.

BAR OF THE YEAR

Our Little Secret LORD, HOW DO YOU DECIDE BEST BAR? Is it a cocktail emporium? A place with the best craft beer selection?

Where the music is perfect? Where you bring an out-of-town friend to show off your city? Um, yes to all—and the wonder is that it’s still tough to choose. Here are this year’s standouts.

1 GOLD TRANS AM 1879 POWELL ST.

Like every truly great success story, this one could have gone wrong in myriad ways. The much-babbled-about no-cell-phone policy, for example. It could have been a jaded ploy to grab some pre-opening publicity (if they had, you know, any publicity). Or a menu (newly expanded) that still features just two burgers, a $125 steak, one side and some olives could seem a bit precious. Only playing vinyl, contrived. The complete lack of tables, an annoyance. But all these things are delivered with such a dose of no-B.S. authenticity that it pervades every inch of this 13- “seat” marvel on Powell Street and helps make this improbable candidate our favourite bar in Vancouver.

And the place is authentic because the proprietor is. Gianmarco Colannino worked in the industry, got cancer, beat it and, after returning to work (for a beer company), took a step back—priorities fully in place—and decided to open a bar like the ones he loved in other cities but could never find here: small, with a casual atmosphere and a hard focus on the work side, where neighbourhood folk could hang out, listen to good music and shoot the shit. He essentially built the place himself using a handsaw, because he didn’t have the scratch for an electric one, let alone a professional contractor.

The early days—where the food was more front and centre—were tough, with overflow from neighbour Bistro Wagon Rouge providing a thin lifeline. But

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Colannino streamlined the menu radically: one burger, one steak, one side. He brought in bartender Dave Beck when Merchant’s Oyster Bar closed, and the two started to craft a cocktail program that is near-perfect in its construction: a page of classic cocktails (like the Red Hook; see sidebar), a page of originals, a small rotating selection of craft beer and a cool selection of wines at “market price,” which Colannino mistakenly thinks is a 100-percent markup—insanely low.

This summer saw the addition of chef Edie Steensma, who initially left a sweet gig at Autostrada Downtown just to help out here.

(That’s the sort of devotion this place inspires.) Soon she had taken over the food program—now two burgers (!) and daily teasers like Spam gyoza—and together the three of them run the bar like a well-lubricated machine.

But the easygoing atmosphere belies a serious dedication to making this spot hum—they routinely take staff trips to other cities to see how they can up their game—but they’re just so self-minimizing about their work that it all seems so easy. It’s not, but they want you to believe it is. After all, this is a bar, and you’re here to have a good time.

2 SILVER THE KEEFER BAR 135 KEEFER ST.

An almost perfect bar. Its roster of bartenders—both past and present— includes former Bartenders of the Year Dani Tatarin and Amber Bruce, as well as legends Gez McAlpine and Keenan Hood, who stepped away before they could get the award. It’s a spot that one night might see a shirtless BOTY Josh Pape reliving his mixology youth and the next see a studious inquiry of the subtle use of peated whisky into modern drink-making. But always it comes back to the drinks—which likewise always walk that exquisite line between serious and playful. Even when the

Keefer is slammed (which is pretty much always), the team of pros here craft each cocktail like they’re in a competition. No bar has impacted the way Vancouverites drink more than this one—a stalwart that still feels like it’s brand new.

3 BRONZE CAMPAGNOLO UPSTAIRS 1020 MAIN ST., 2ND FLOOR

It’s oft said that Vancouver’s a lonely city, cruel to outsiders, but that sentiment is never expressed on the second floor of 1020 Main Street. Campagnolo Upstairs is the closest thing the entire city has to a neighbourhood bar. Ascending the stairs is an exercise in shoulder relaxing, such that by the time you arrive you’re ready to receive the ever-present greetings from barman extraordinaire Peter Van de Reep, a man with the friendly demeanour of Woody Harrelson, the curiosity of Malcolm Gladwell and the moustache of Kaiser Wilhelm II. It’s a place where everything is just so—well-priced classic cocktails made with precision, the rarity of a curated wine list that itself is worthy of patronage, bar snacks (including the original dirty burger) that are 145 percent better than they need to be. And it’s all tied together with a bow of camaraderie that belies our reputation as the No Fun City.

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

THE BOTANIST 1038 CANADA PL. This mecca for true cocktail nerds also serves as a world-beating factory for creating competition-winning bartenders in its spare time. The most elegant watering hole in the city.

BOXCAR 923 MAIN ST. It turns out good things do come in small packages. Boxcar boasts one of the better beer lists in town, along with strong offerings in the cocktail section. Oh, and they’ll let you bring in some pie from Pizzeria Farina next door. Take them up on it.

*

3 ALBUMS

the team at Trans Am really doesn’t want scratched 1. Gumba Fire: Bubblegum Soul and Synth Boogie in 1980s South Africa 2.

Freddie Gibbs’ album Shadow of a Doubt 3. Whitney Houston’s “I Wanna Dance with Somebody” single on 45 original pressing

How to Get into Trans Am 1.

There are reservations at 6 p.m. and 7 p.m., but only for four to six spots.

2. There’s usually a lull between the time the after-workers leave (about 8-ish), and before the hard-chargers arrive (8:45-ish).

RED HOOK • 2 oz Rittenhouse rye • 1/2 oz Punt e mes • 1/2 oz Maraschino

MOST COMMON DRINK ORDER AT TRANS AM? The “I Trust You.” You give them $14, they ask you some questions, and something bespoke comes your way for a sight cheaper than a Savile Row suit.

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Don’t Mind If I Do Katie Ingram holds court at Elisa.

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BARTENDER OF THE YEAR

Belting Out Standards KATIE INGRAM ELISA, 1109 HAMILTON ST. Here’s the elevator pitch for a surefire hit Broadway musical. Our star, plucky young ingenue Katie, leaves her dead-end small town on a whim, with nothing but a hope and a prayer to go on. She falls into a job at a storied watering hole where the fellas do the bartending and the gals wait on tables. But our hero has dreams—she hangs around the drink makers, soaking up their knowledge and, full of confidence, enters the big drink competition... and falls flat on her face. She’s picked up by a sage veteran, a woman who knows the challenges of being female in a maledominated industry and who does mixology Mr. Miyagi on young Katie. Katie trains and learns like a woman possessed, and next year, when she enters the same drink competition, she wins the whole thing. The frame shifts to several years into the future and we see Katie, now a star bartender managing her own place, taking a young ingenue under her wing...

The kicker? Not only is it a true story, but Katie, a theatre studies grad from York University, also plays herself!

Well, it’s more inspired by true events.

There is a real Katie—Katie Ingram—and she is a musical theatre grad. The “small town” was Toronto (the dead-end part is up for debate), and she was tagging along with a pal who was following a boy. She did land at the Lamplighter as a server, but the Donnelly gang—Trevor Kallies, Jeff Billick, Jay Jones, Miles Sellyn—were actually pretty supportive. And she did enter the Dish ’n Dazzle competition with no bartending experience, did not do well the first go-round, and was hired by former BOTY Lauren Mote at Uva, who did mentor her to winning that same competition the next year—with less than a year of real bartending experience under her belt.

The problem with the Hollywood treat-

ment is that it lacks a bit of finesse and a lot of the grind of the real story. The sleeping in Walmart parking lots on the way to Vancouver. The crushing weight of imposter syndrome both at Uva and, later, in the top job at the famed bar at L’Abattoir—notwithstanding she was killing at the competitions (Jameson Barrelman, Knob Creek Whiskey Cup) and had an easygoing professionalism that endeared her to customers like few others. But throughout it all, Ingram steadied herself with a voracious appetite for learning: first classic drinks, then wine, then pairings with food: if there was info to be gleaned on a topic that touched bartending, she was reading it.

All of which prepared her for the moment when the biggest of the big breaks came: the Toptable Group was opening a cost-is-almost-no-object steakhouse, and they needed a head bartender to not just tread the boards but also design the bar, design the program and staff with a team that would be up to the exacting standards of a restaurant the Aquilini family were naming after their grandmother. As anyone who’s been able to score a seat at Elisa’s perpetually packed bar knows, the ingenue-no-more once again absolutely killed.

So come to the stage and take a bow, Katie Ingram. You’re our Bartender of the Year.

KATIE’S CHOICE THE BOTTLE FROM B.C. YOU BRING YOUR AMERICAN FRIENDS? Dubonnet—in Canada we have the European formula, whereas the U.S. has their own, less bitter take. Ours is better.

BEER BAR HACK The Miller High Life that comes in bottles is the American formula—in cans, it’s the inferior Canadian version. We have bottles at Elisa.

THE ONE BOTTLE YOU ALWAYS HAVE IN YOUR HOUSE? Don Julio Blanco Tequila.

WHAT BOTTLE WOULD YOU LINE UP FOR?

INCANDESCENT

First of all, I have never nor would I ever wait in line at

• 1 oz Blanco tequila • 1 oz Amaro Nonino • 1 oz Cocchi Americano Rosa • 1 oz lemon juice •2 dashes of Bittered Sling Lem-Marrakech bitters I love margaritas, and they inspired this drink.

Hard-shake all ingredients over ice and strain into a chilled coupe. Garnish with a dried rose.

the Spirits Release.

However, I always look forward to the Canadian whisky coming from Gooderham and Worts. The Canadian whisky category is growing, and Dr. Don always manages to keep the team ahead of the curve.

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Floor O’Clock Robert Stelmachuk in his natural element— greeting customers and pouring wine.

SOMMELIER OF THE YEAR

The Long and Winding Road This year we put the job of selecting the Sommelier of the Year to a group who knows a thing or two about the topic—our past SOTY winners.

We think their choice was inspired.

ROBERT STELMACHUK

MOTT 32, 1161 GEORGIA ST.

“See that couple over there?” Robert Stelmachuk says as he gestures to a man and woman enjoying what appears to be a date night... at one in the afternoon. “I’ve served them for over 20 years.” It could be a throwaway line that demonstrates the breadth of his experience, but it’s the

way Stelmachuk—proper suit and full Windsor knot, even at midday—says it, with the emphasis not on the “I’ve” but on the “served,” that tells you all you need to know about this year’s Sommelier of the Year. In a society that uses the word profession synonymously with job,

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Stelmachuk grew up in Thunder Bay with fine wine rarely making an appearance in his day-to-day life, but, fresh from hotel management school, he made what turned out to be a fateful choice—he decided to head west to the then-nascent resort community of Whistler.

Stelmachuk represents the true nature of a professional—a person who aligns himself with a group of like-minded practitioners, and then not only takes great responsibility with his own performance but also ensures that his fellow professionals likewise learn and prosper.

Stelmachuk grew up in Thunder Bay with fine wine rarely making an appearance in his day-to-day life, but, fresh from hotel management school, he made what turned out to be a fateful choice—he decided to head west to the then-nascent resort community of Whistler in order to become part of the opening of a new Monk McQueens. It was here that he learned the importance of focus and reliability in

making a large operation function. Ultimately, the call of Vancouver was strong, and, as luck would have it, he landed at the William Tell, a legendary fine-dining room run by the ever-more legendary Erwin Doebeli. Even more importantly, he found mentors—Bryan Turner, Trevor Hanna, Tyler Dawson—who were willing to educate him in all thing vinous. He worked the floor at night and studied wine during the day, his goal a modest “making sure I know more about wine than my guests do.”

It was a formative four years, and continuing down his C.V. is like a reading a road map of a classical education in Vancouver hospitality: opened Blue Water Cafe as the sommelier, wine director at Le Crocodile for seven years, opening somm at Market by Jean-Georges, Chambar, and stints at CinCin, Cioppino’s and Cibo thrown in for what has to be the most extensive resumé in town. The one common thread: the level expected for himself and for his team was professionalism.

And then came what was in many ways the proper reward for a lifetime of hard work—a new room with a luxurious budget and a goal of arriving at the top of the food chain. For someone who’d spent decades retooling wine programs, here was a chance to have carte blanche in crafting something with a concept—high-end Chinese—that seemed to be perfect. The one small wrinkle: the independently owned

*

ROBERT’S PICKS

WHAT’S ONE AMAZING BOTTLE THAT’S HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT AT THE BCLDB? Medici Ermete Concerto Reggiano Lambrusco Frizzante ($20)— a MUST wine for any gathering.

THREE BOTTLES A WINE LOVER SHOULD TRY AT LEAST ONCE IN THEIR LIFE? Wine lovers probably have the chance to taste the obvious great, iconic wines.

I think these three should keep wine lovers grounded: Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1978, Viñedo Chadwick 2000 and Pierre Peters Les Chétillons Champagne.

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BEST BOTTLE UNDER $50 TO BRING TO A DINNER PARTY WHERE THEY’RE SERVING RIB-EYES? I have two wines I would totally bring and drink! First, a three-litre BIB (bag-in-box)

restaurant happened to be attached to a hotel that had a management agreement with the Trump Corporation, and that five-letter word meant that what should have been a coronation turned into something less exalted. Boycotts were organized, friends wouldn’t stop by—but Stelmachuk responded as he always does: by working his ass off (and patiently explaining the difference between Mott 32 and the Trump Hotel). But the lack of fanfare has allowed Stelmachuk to quietly build one of the city’s great wine programs, deep in insane bottles (he must sell more Lafite and DRC than anyone in town) and backed by a crack team under his tutelage. And he’s constantly using his

platform to help the new generation of somms who are just coming up, many of whom don’t get exposure to iconic bottles thanks to stratospheric pricing. Stelmachuk organizes industry tastings, and is always quick to grab a bottle to help fellow pros expand their tasting range or to open the space to help somms prep for industry exams.

But whereas most mentors preach from above, interaction with Stelmachuk is always on the floor. It’s his happy place —interacting with customers, teaching and learning, expanding horizons and vanquishing pretension. It’s tough work, and he wouldn’t have it any other way.

Big House Cardinal Zin Zinfandel from California, chilled for an hour. Then d’Arenberg The Galvo Garage (cabernet/ merlot/petit verdot) from McLaren Vale, Australia.

THREE UNEXPECTED

sustainable work they do.

from Friuli-Venezia Giulia,

BOTTLES THAT PAIR

Then, Weszeli Purus Cru

Italy—it’s like drinking silk

AMAZINGLY WELL WITH

Reserve Grüner Veltliner,

sheets of almond, acacia

CHINESE FOOD?

from Kamptal, Austria:

blossoms and toffee.

Querciabella Chianti

imagine if Puligny-Montra-

Ultra-classy. More Mae

Classico from Tuscany,

chet and Sancerre had a

West than Kate Moss. For

Italy—the sangiovese

baby. And since there are

red, Decero Remolinos

grape is the secret weapon

two unexpected wines to

Vineyard Petit Verdot

here. The natural acidity

master Peking duck, I have

from Mendoza, Argentina.

makes pairing to Chinese

to add a fourth! The white

Like cabernet after a yoga

food brilliant. A classic

is Russiz Superiore Col

retreat, with sassy acidity

wine, but I also love the

Disôre Pinot Blanc blend,

for the win.

Three SOTY Alum Pick the Gems at the Upcoming Vancouver International Wine Festival

TAITTINGER I adore blanc

CHARLES HEIDSIECK and PIPER

JEAN-LUC COLOMBO

de blancs because of the

HEIDSIECK These two Champagne

Wines of this region

finesse and laser-focused

houses were purchased a few years

already have my heart,

precision and elegance

ago by a group who also recently

but his Condrieu is

of the Champagne-only

purchased Biondi-Santi in Tuscany, and

something to behold,

blend. I worship Comtes and

the investment in the vineyards and the winery

a wine from the heavens.

consider it one of the finest

has been colossal and ambitious. Now we

I can’t wait to taste

examples of blanc de blancs.

shall see some great improvement in the wines.

the lineup. — Jill Spoor,

— Shane Taylor, SOTY 2018

— Sebastien le Goff, SOTY 2006

SOTY 2017

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POP-UP WINE BARS

The (Wine)Bar Is Finally Open POP-UP WINE BARS keep, ahem, popping up around town so we got Kurtis Kolt to investigate. Follow ’em on Instagram to keep up with their ever-changing offerings.

APÉRO MODE

month, a short list of wines, charcuterie and more are served up at Livia by one of Liberty Wine Merchants’ wine buyers and a wine-savvy flight attendant. True story!

RECENT SIP G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d’Alba 2017, Italy THE VIBE Very Commercial Drive. The young! The old! Italians! Dudes playing chess!

THE ‘GRAM @aperomode ELEVATOR PITCH Local sommelier Maude RenaudBrisson teams up with the city’s hottest restaurants to entertain a crowd of largely restaurant and wine industry folks, casual wine enthusiasts, and their pals.

B.Y.O. for a small corkage fee that goes to charity.

RECENT SIP Natte Valleij Cinsault 2017, South Africa THE VIBE Buzzy and open to everyone; the industry types try hard not to be too cliquey.

The Birds and The Beets, Siôn Iorwerth hosts all the cool kids at the city’s epicentre of natural wine, featuring a rotating roster of local chefs plating up small bites.

RECENT SIP Brutal Pop! Up Wine Bar Ancestral Moscatel and Macabeo 2018 sparkling, Spain THE VIBE A good dose of millennial revelry, along with the odd handful of GenXers (including this writer) looking to feel young again.

JUICE BAR

POP! UP WINE BAR

THE ‘GRAM @juicebaryvr ELEVATOR PITCH Wednesdays through Saturdays at

THE ‘GRAM @popwine_yvr ELEVATOR PITCH The first and third Monday of every

VIN VAN THE ‘GRAM @vinvanpopup ELEVATOR PITCH London expat Joanna Owen shares warm hospitality, homey eats and a range of her favourite wines at Mount Pleasant’s Dock Lunch.

RECENT SIP Scout Vineyard Riesling 2018, B.C. THE VIBE Very inclusive, friendly and welcoming.

Consider it Vancouver’s gateway wine bar for the uninitiated.

VINI VOLPE THE ‘GRAM @vinivolpe

Apéro Mode

Vin Van

ELEVATOR PITCH At Caffè La Tana on Commercial Drive, folks from sibling restaurant Savio Volpe pour delicious drops alongside top-notch pastas and other fare.

RECENT SIP Ciù Ciù Rosso Piceno 2018, Italy THE VIBE Probably feels the poshest of the bunch, much of it due to the drop-dead gorgeous room. Come on in, though; the water’s fine.

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FUNK SOUL BROTHERS (l to r) Sean Kellock, Casey Foster and Darren Hollett made a big splash with House of Funk earlier this year.

BREWERY OF THE YEAR

We polled the city’s top beer minds, dug deep into the research (tough job, yeah yeah) and, drumroll... our list of the top breweries in Metro Vancouver features only one from Vancouver proper. by

Nathan Caddell

There are surely a number of factors for that—space, affordability and municipalities eager to attract younger residents chief among them. And there are, of course, dozens of reputable breweries from the city and elsewhere that just missed the cut. But it’s all gravy-infused goodness for Metro Vancouverites as one of the country’s finest craft beer industries continues to develop a competitive landscape that also manages to be friendly and supportive (see page 44 for some industry experts picking their favourites from other breweries). That’s worth raising a glass to. And so are our Breweries of the Year.

1 GOLD HOUSE OF FUNK BREWING CO. 350 ESPLANADE E, NORTH VANCOUVER

The biggest line (and it wasn’t close) at last June’s Craft Beer Festival at the PNE belonged to a brewery that had opened less

than a month prior.

“That was awesome,” recalls House of Funk cofounder Darren Hollett with a chuckle. “We brought a smoothie machine—that might have had something to do with it.”

Using their popular Funk Juice (a fruited sour beer) to create a smoothie sour certainly didn’t hurt.

Regulars have also been crowding the brewery’s North Van tasting room, which looks out over the Burrard Inlet.

Though the watering hole has had a few dif-

HOUSE OF FUNK: TANYA GOEHRING

Play That Funky Music

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House of Funk picked up two BC Beer Awards in October and plans to have cans and bottles in liquor stores by the time you’re reading this. ficulties with bylaws, it was given permission to sell full pours (instead of only flights) in November. That means patrons can finally enjoy pints with, as Hollett describes them, “a lot of funk.”

“I’ve been a big fan of wild beers and sours and barrel-aged beers for quite some time,” he says. “I thought there was a spot in the market in B.C... I knew we had to come out swinging with a quality product and a bit of a loudness.”

That noise isn’t just the funk music rotating in the brewery; House of Funk

HOUSE OF FUNK: TANYA GOEHRING

Four Winds

picked up two BC Beer Awards in October and plans to have cans and bottles in liquor stores by the time you’re reading this.

“They’re putting out some beers that are divisive—some of their fruited stuff is very heavily fruited, and some people are saying it’s not beer,” says Ryan Voigt, R&D director at Twin Sails Brewing and co-founder of beer nerdfavourite Coalesce Brewing. “The concept turns some people off, but in my mind, they’re doing some really good beers. They do a wood-fermented Pilsner that is excellent; their [bourbon-barrel-aged] imperial stout won silver at the BC Beer Awards.

It’s a really good thing for the North Shore to have— they’re definitely pushing the boundaries of style.”

What else would one expect from a brewery that named one of its more popular concoctions (a delicious sour IPA) after funk legend Chaka Khan?

2 SILVER

DAGERAAD BREWING 114–3191 THUNDERBIRD CRES., BURNABY

Beautiful design and thoughtful, creative takes on traditional Belgian beers are the hallmarks of this Burnaby stalwart that generated praise from nearly everyone we talked to.

“They’ve popularized really traditional old-world styles and made them cool again,” says Granville Island Brewing brand manager Marissa Mills.

That’s reflected in everything from the flagship Blonde ale, a 7.5-percent alcohol mixture that has become the defining B.C. blonde beer, to the Rosetta, a golden ale brewed with pink peppercorns and rose petals.

3 BRONZE FOUR WINDS BREWING CO. 4–7355 72ND ST., DELTA

One of the older brewers on the list, Four Winds is still going strong.

“It’s always solid,” says Slow Hand Beer Company co-founder Kurtis Sheldan about the Delta-based brewery, launched in 2013.

“The beer is always reflective of what it should be.”

Indeed, the bold branding and impeccable beers make Four Winds one of the more admirable outfits in the province. The brewery’s Zephyrus series, named after the Greek god of the west wind, produced two of the more successful brews in B.C. history: Juxtapose, a wild IPA, and Nectarous, the brewery’s renowned sour.

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Dageraad

HONOURABLE MENTION

FIELD HOUSE BREWING CO. 2281 W RAILWAY ST., ABBOTSFORD Since opening in 2016, Field House has merged a simple, elegant and colourful label (not surprisingly, founder Josh Vanderheide is a former ad exec) with forwardthinking beers.

The latter have been especially evident in terms of the Abbotsford brewery’s recent experiments with wine, like its Pinot Gris Sour Saison and an Imperial Gewürztraminer Gose.

HONOURABLE MENTION

BRASSNECK BREWERY 2148 MAIN ST. Like Four Winds, Brassneck opened in 2013 and... hasn’t changed all that much. That’s a good thing. The beer is still top-notch and inventive, as evidenced by old favourites like the Passive Aggressive, a big dry-hopped pale ale, and their newbie rotating changelings (raspberry was a favourite). And getting a table at the Main Street haunt is still incredibly difficult and immensely rewarding.

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RIDE OR DIE Electric Bicycle Brewing brings some colour to Mount Pleasant’s beer scene

BEST BREWERY DESIGN

Through the Drinking Glass There are a few different reactions you might have walking into the sensory overload that is Electric Bicycle Brewing’s Mount Pleasant tasting room.

But for anyone who has tried their beer, the appropriate one is: “Ah, that makes sense.”

After all, it takes a certain kind of atmosphere to set up offerings like a ramen noodle-infused altbier and a Double-Stuffed Oreo stout. That place is, apparently, a nostalgiapacked operation brimming with bright pink and turquoise. It’s a whirling assault to all the senses,

from the impressive and loud paint job that adorns the exterior to the funhouse mirrors near the bathroom.

And it took just under two and a half years to create.

Co-founders Elliot McKerr and Matt Ryan had been looking at opening a brewery in the neighbourhood for a while. In 2015, on Christmas Day, they happened to be scrolling through real estate listings and saw that a space once occupied by an electric bicycle factory (hence the name) had become available.

But it wasn’t until May 2018 that Electric Bicycle officially opened,

mostly because of permitting challenges with the City of Vancouver.

So, McKerr and Ryan had some time to create their new addition to Vancouver’s brewery scene.

“With so much selection in the neighbourhood, we wanted to have something different,” notes McKerr, a former marketing rep in the beverage industry, as he sits in his tasting room sipping a blonde ale the brewery has dubbed OK Boomer. “R&B [Brewing Co.] has a comfortable, at-home, grungier aesthetic, which we really liked. But being right next door, we didn’t want to be like that.

ELECTRIC BICYCLE

ELECTRIC BICYCLE BREWING 20 E 4TH AVE.

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And 33 [Acres Brewing Company] and Faculty [Brewing Co.] have really clean looks, while Brassneck [Brewery] does the reclaimed wood thing. So we started to think about what works for who we are.”

They ended up matching the aesthetic with their desire to “focus on crazier beers,” according to McKerr. The duo—who got a lot of help from friends and family, including McKerr’s father-in-law, who spent six months doing all the carpentry work—decided to go with something a bit more out there.

“We wanted to go crazy Alice in Wonderland, or psychedelic fountain shop, and make that fit with the beers we wanted to put out, and also the type of place we wanted

to hang out in.” McKerr recalls.

After the painting was complete, the individual pieces started coming in. There’s a massive pink pipe that runs throughout the space; a huge flower mural sits right in the middle; an old hockey arena sign they picked up from a vintage store was reworked to be the menu; and the pièce de résistance, a payment screen modelled after the old Donkey Kong arcade games, but with the gorilla throwing beer kegs at Mario.

“We get a lot of people coming in here and saying, ‘I can’t believe you have this. I had this exact same game when I was a kid,’” says McKerr with a chuckle about the one-of-a-kind model. “And it’s like, ‘Yeah, of course you did.’”

Overall, McKerr and company created a place that is loud in every sense of the word—psych rock blasts over the speakers—and packed to the brim almost every night despite the competition in the neighbourhood. Most of all, it’s true to those who built it and inhabit it.

“There have been some amazing breweries that worked with some amazing design firms,” he says.

“With the constraints we had, a lot of the capital we would have used for out-of-house design just evaporated.

“It’s not as polished as a lot of the other breweries in town, but it has this nice, authentic feel and I think people get that when they come in the door. And that translates into the beers as well.”

A BEER FOR ALL SEASONS

Season’s Greetings WE ASKED SOME OF THE CITY’S BREWING AUTHORITIES FOR RECOMMENDATIONS ON WHAT GOES BEST WITH THE WEATHER.

W I N T ER

in body for how rich the name makes it seem.”

—Marissa Mills,

IPA first came out, and it definitely has stuck on my list since then.”

brand manager, Gran-

—E.V.

ville Island Brewing

—Samantha Lindeman, co-founder,

“Persephone’s Dry Irish Stout is always awesome.”

Wildeye Brewing

—Adam Henderson, co-owner,

“One that sticks out every year is the Boris from Strange Fellows.”

“In about May I go to the La Maison

by Four Winds.”

—Erika van Veenen, social media

—Thomas Morrison,

manager, Brewery Creek Liquor Store

lead brewer, Red

Superflux Beer Company

ELECTRIC BICYCLE

“Beere Brewing is just down the road from us and has an awesome stout—the Cherry Willis, a cherry imperial stout with dark chocolate and cocoa nibs.”

“In the winter, I drink a lot of Persephone’s Dry Irish Stout. It’s a re­ al­­ly nice nitro beer.”

—Ryan Voigt, R&D director, Twin Sails Brewing/co-founder, Coalesce Brewing

SPR I NG

Truck Beer Company

“Field House’s Toasted Coconut Black Lager.

It’s a perfect blend of coconut flavour but without any crazy pastry sweetness, and light

“It was spring when Backcountry’s Widowmaker

“Burnabarian

by Dageraad is something I drink really regularly in the spring.”

—R.V.

“Craft Beer Is Dead by Superflux. Nice and fruity but not overly heavy or creamy in the mouth. Incredibly tasty take on the classic American IPA.” —M.M.

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A BEER FOR ALL SEASONS

“I don’t hate any beers, but I think I hate saison—except for one: the Lemon Gin Saison from Bridge Brewing in North Van. Once I come out of snowboard season I start to mountain bike and end up at Bridge a lot. And that beer is always consistently good.”

—Elliot McKerr, Electric Bicycle Brewing

“I can’t get enough of Simple Things, the lager from Steel and Oak. It’s just such a good beer.”

the branding is on point.

Anything Coalesce puts out is worth waiting in line for.”

—M.M.

—E.M.

“All last summer I was drinking hefeweizens, and R&B Brewing’s Chef’s Hef is quite outstanding.”

—T.M.

SU M MER “Can Four Winds’ Nectarous be the pick for all the seasons?

I think I speak for both [cofounder] Matt [Kohlen] and I: if we go somewhere and Nectarous is on, it’s pretty much guaranteed that we order it.”

*

“Can FOUR WINDS’ NECTAROUS be the pick for all the seasons?”

“Foreword Reserve by Coalesce Brewing was a 2018 release, but it’s a very special and beautifully crafted beer. A mixed fermentation ale aged in chardonnay barrels for 11 months, the beer is brewed with so much care and attention, and

“Coalesce Brewing’s Val d’Or, if you can still get your hands on one.”

—Darren Hollett, co-founder, House of Funk Brewing

FA L L “I love coffee beers in the fall, so defnitely First Press from Steel and Oak.”

“Dageraad’s Antwerpen.

An Abbey-style tripel that’s complex and fruity with a lingering warmth.”

—M.M.

—E.V.

“Backcountry Brewing is producing some cool hazy IPAs and hazy pale ales, so they’re always a good fall option.”

—S.L.

—A.H.

“I don’t like fresh hop or pumpkin beers. Hoyne has a really nice Vienna Amber. I love Germanstyle lagers in the fall. ”

“Brassneck’s No Brainer.

It’s a corn lager, and as a brewer, it’s just what I want to drink when it’s really hot or just after a shift.”

—A.H.

—R.V.

ADAM HENDERSON

RYAN VOIGT

SAMANTHA LINDEMAN

ERIKA VAN VEENEN

MARISSA MILLS

THOMAS MORRISON

ELLIOT McKERR

DARREN HOLLETT

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Feature H I K I N G Writer Tyee Bridge skips the airport and eschews the train station in favour of lacing up a pair of old runners and setting out to walk the urban Vancouver stretch of the Trans Canada Trail.

A Nice Long Walk illustrations by

Amanda Siegmann

OUR TRANS CANADA TRAIL walk began near Douglas Coupland’s pixelated Digital Orca sculpture in Coal Harbour. I’ve always found it mesmerizing and I wanted to linger for a few minutes, but I felt the clock ticking.

We were going to put in over 30 kilometres that day, and we were behind schedule.

It was a perfect morning: chilly but cloudless, the sun already well launched into pale blue sky.

The kind of Vancouver day that announces the possibility of a life beyond rain. A nice long walk. Get off-screen and out from under the domestic roof. The sky as my ceiling! Fresh air and fitness!

Profundity at every turn!

This was the idea: a two-day urban hike on the Trans Canada Trail. Begun as a national project in 1992, the TCT was renamed the Great Trail in 2016. This was part of a federal rebrand that also bills it as the longest trail in the world at 24,000 kilometres, running from Vancouver Island to the Northwest Territories to Newfoundland. However, unlike other long-distance routes that are actually trails in the way we understand the word—the Pacific

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Feature H I K I N G I had several motives for the trip. One was the ambient unease that has set in now that we’re all aware of sitting as the new smoking. I sit a lot. Sometimes I stand while working at my computer, but most of my life is shockingly sedentary.

Crest Trail, for instance, which runs the backcountry from Washington’s Cascade Range to Baja California— this trail is a patchwork stitching of roads, canoe routes, and biking and hiking paths. The route is more of a bureaucratic fantasy than a reality, and in some spots it’s nothing more than tagged highways no safer, nor any more scenic, than any other road.

But I was curious what the trail’s route would show me of the city. One day with my friend Mark—a boat captain and engineer who works on heritage sternwheelers—and one day solo.

The perfect balance of solitude and community. By the second afternoon I would be in Port Moody, celebrating my 2,000-plus calories burned with something indulgent. Lobster bisque.

A banana split. Steak. Something.

The photos Mark took that Tuesday morning show me geared up with a backpack and sensible attire: lightweight nylon T-shirt, abundantly pocketed cargo shorts and a fullbrimmed canvas hat borrowed (reluctantly) from a retired neighbour.

There is something briskly humiliating in wearing a Tilley hat in downtown Vancouver. You are instantly an assumed part of the cruise-ship crowd.

This belittlement, actual or imagined, is given an added twinge when—assum-

THE ROUTE The path taken by the writer stops by many of the area’s greatest hits—Stanley Park, Granville Island—with a healthy dose of the sort of forgotten urbanity that makes up daily life in Vancouver.

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ing you’re in your mid-40s or above— you realize you are now closer to retirement age, and cruise-shipdom, than you are to your university years.

What Mark’s photos do not show is that I was wearing overused fiveyear-old running shoes. Despite good intentions, and despite the fact that one’s feet are the crucial equipment on a long walk, they were not bulked up with the prescription orthotics I’d been promising to get for years, either. One rather obvious bit of advice to the would-be urban walker: purchase exceptional footwear.

Our easterly route on the trail began by heading west and using Vancouver’s most famed chunk of walkability—the seawall—to circumnavigate Stanley Park. As we walked down to the seawall path, I checked the time: 9:45 a.m. Still in good shape.

I was sure we could bag our distance in seven hours. If you do some light research on average walking speed, the figure that tends to come up is five kilometres an hour. If that was what ordinary mortals could do, surely we could do better. Thirty kilometres in a day. Easy!

Put in three hours before lunch, then another three or four after that: we’d be at the odd little motel I’d booked on Boundary Road by late afternoon.

I had several motives for the trip.

One was the ambient unease that has set in now that we’re all aware of sitting as the new smoking. I sit a lot.

Sometimes I stand while working at my computer, but most of my life is shockingly sedentary. Another, less hypochondriacal, motive was my long-held hope that when my son reaches the right age—12? 16?—we would walk together from where I live in New Westminster to the summit of Mount Baker and back. Doing so would be a fairly epic trek of probably 250 to 300 kilometres, with no clear route. I figured a 55-kilometre walk would help me ballpark my odds of being able to do it in the years to come, should it actually be possible.

Another catalyst was Thoreau, always a likely suspect for inspiring walks (and walking narratives, a literary canon of surprising abundance).

In his writings on the subject, he advises readers of the benefits of a long daily stroll. “I cannot preserve my

New Brighton Beach

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Granville Island

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health and spirits,” he writes, “unless I spend four hours a day at least—and it is commonly more than that— sauntering through the woods and over the hills and fields, absolutely free from all worldly engagements.”

Easy, of course, for an unemployed, childless bachelor like Thoreau to prescribe a spiritual regimen of four-hour walks. But no doubt he was right: that would be a hell of a nice way to spend your time if you had no job, mortgage or dependents. Still, I felt I had to find room in my calendar to be more Thoreau-esque, for the sake of living to 60 if nothing else.

Most of my early revelations on the walk, thanks to Mark, were historical. Amid the glass towers and white masts of Coal Harbour, for example, I learned about the rumrunners who made boatloads of cash off America’s Prohibition. The trade ran via cargo schooners like the 246foot Malahat—a ship owned by the Reifel family, who made their fortune in contraband booze and gave our city the Commodore Ballroom, the Vogue Theatre and the Reifel Migratory Bird Sanctuary.

Mark is that rare type of well-read Renaissance man who sheds historical tidbits like these the way a plum tree drops ripe fruit. He also reads (and writes) contemporary poetry and can fix a Cummins

diesel. His unique fusion of craftsman, historian and aesthete was summed up by a moment at Granville Island when, after nearly four hours of walking, we were sitting down to lunch. I caught him staring at the ceiling above the Blue Parrot coffee shop.

“What are you looking at up there?” I said. I thought there might be a pigeon about to crap in my butter chicken.

He was rapt; he didn’t look down.

“Just admiring the hypnotic symmetry of these old trusses.”

Talking history passes the time, but it doesn’t make you walk faster. It was 1:30 p.m. when we got to Granville Island. It had taken us three hours and 45 minutes to go about 16 kilometres. So much for five kilometres an hour. But we weren’t worried: at this rate, we figured, we’d be at the motel by early evening. We set off, the trail wending us down False Creek and through Chinatown and Strathcona.

By the time we got to HastingsSunrise, we’d left history behind us and were walking mostly in the moment. It was an afternoon of strong, leaf-flashing winds and warm

sunlight. The wind came rushing at us from over the silhouetted shoulders of the North Shore mountains, whistling through the treed avenues. It was a perfect moment, heightened by endorphin-induced grace notes. When we stopped near the perfectly named Dusty Greenwell Park—perched on the edge of the railroad and overlooking Burrard Inlet and an industrial lot of empty shipping containers—I felt like we were at the centre of the world.

Our earlier time calculations turned out to be optimistic. We didn’t arrive at the motel—a place remarkable for being completely unremarkable, and offering a view of a massive intersection—until close to 9 p.m.

This was after a beautiful, windswept rest on driftwood logs at the New Brighton beach and after the very long, torturous and terrible last four kilometres down the radically unscenic Boundary Road.

I had come into the walk with low-grade foot pains—the kind that, as a computer-bound sedentary, you

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Boundary Road

Burnaby Mountain

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BURNABY

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Rocky Point Park

PORT MOODY

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Feature H I K I N G

can generally ignore completely.

They had begun to flower hours before, somewhere in Strathcona.

By the time we got to Boundary I was visibly hobbling and experiencing a novel sensation: burning needles zinging out laterally from my ankle joints. My left knee hurt, and I thought I might have a hairline fracture in the arch of my right foot. My pace was slowed by seeking out forgiving patches of grass on which to tread instead of the punitive, hateful sidewalk.

Minus our leisurely 90-minute lunch on Granville Island, we’d been walking for nine and a half hours. There is not much to say about the discomfort of walking on concrete in subpar footwear for that amount of time, except that it sucks and you should avoid it.

At a nearby Chinese restaurant Mark and I gratefully collapsed into chairs and ate a huge dinner, toasting our epic day: 33 kilometres on foot. He caught transit home, and I slept the sleep of the truly exhausted back at the motel.

The next morning I set out boldly, blessed with good weather and feeling no pain. I enjoyed walking the slightly surreal neighbourhood at the top of Boundary, where well-manicured lawns part like the Red Sea to make way for an army of power line towers marching up the hill.

There, a few blocks from Mont­ rose Park, I stopped for a few minutes—and lo, it was quiet.

Chirps of chickadees and blackbirds, and the distant ssshhh of bridge traffic. It was midweek and no one was around; they were all below, working, commuting, computing. I felt a bracing, Words­ worthian sense of apartness.

Thoreau wrote, “Two or three hours’ walking will carry me to as strange a country as I expect ever

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to see. A single farm-house which I had not seen before is sometimes as good as the dominions of the king of Dahomey. There is in fact a sort of harmony discoverable between the capabilities of the landscape within a circle of 10 miles’ radius, or the limits of an afternoon walk, and the threescore-years and 10 of human life. It will never become quite familiar to you.”

This is definitely true. But 150 years after he wrote those sentences, more than 80 percent of Canadians live in cities—and globally, by 2050, we will be over six billion urbanites. These cities are not, for the most part, the woodsy, wetland environs that Thoreau loved. They are landscapes of damage. The vast grids of incursion we call cities include green-space parks and prim neighbourhoods, but also at least as many stinking alleys, trafficchoked arterials and industrial wastelands—populated with abundant evidence of our dependence on chemicals, fossil fuels and plastics.

So the pastoral contentment Thoreau sought in his walks is not quite the same for us urban moderns. But along with a degree of ecological radicalization, there is still that chance, while out on foot, of being charmed by where you live—to have your wait for the angel satisfied by a transcendent glimpse or two. In a world drowning in novelty, most of it digital, there is something to be said for finding the unfamiliar in one’s non-virtual backyard. You talk with the owner of a local store for 10 minutes about music, local architecture, where to buy fresh fish. You spot a faded mural on the backside of an old brick building, or a fresh and arresting work

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Feature H I K I N G

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of graffiti. Straying beyond these ruts on an agenda-free walk gives us a chance to hold where we are, and even our own lives, at arm’s length for a little while.

My various foot and joint pains returned with vigour not long after I crested Boundary Road, blunting my enjoyment of Confederation Park and the Burnaby Mountain woods. I got a sweeping view of Indian Arm, then took off my pack and sat on a bench for a traditional European road lunch—crackers, cheese, dry sausage. (Or rather, to be honest about my fussy urbanite tastes: some gluten-free crackers, Mt. Lehman goat beer cheddar, caraway landjäeger sausage from Oyama’s on Granville Island.)

When I stood up from the bench, I saw it was dedicated to one Bernie Savage, who died at age 50 in 1998. Fifty? Yes, my math was right. Poor Bernie. I would be blowing out 50 candles soon enough. Hopefully.

As I made my way to Port Moody, I was struck by the industrial developments along the route—the odorous refinery, a sulphur transfer facility—and intermittently depressed by the ubiquitous plastic garbage cluttering the roadsides. But I became increasingly elated the closer I got to Port Moody. When I finally peeled off my backpack (and my shoes, etiquette be damned) at the Boathouse Restaurant in Rocky Point Park, I celebrated with a solid steak dinner and a dram of whisky.

I did feel victorious, but the dominant feeling was relief. The punishment was over! As a recon walk for a possible longer trek, I’d been forewarned. If I were going to saunter to Mount Baker with my son, I would need the right

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Feature H I K I N G

shoes, likely something expensive and custom. And more regular walking. And some rehab. A couple of weeks after the trip, when I described my panoply of newly discovered foot aches to my newly discovered podiatrist, he looked at me and nodded. “Right,” he said. “Disneyland syndrome.”

This, he explained, was his term for a phenomenon he saw weekly: middle-aged parents who had just spent several eight- to10-hour days wandering asphalt and concrete in bad shoes. So besides getting the good footwear (this repeat message brought to you by your future metatarsal stress fracture), here is another tip for those considering pilgrimlength walks: whether tramping the Camino de Santiago or the outskirts of Burrard Inlet, allow yourself to saunter.

Limit yourself to under 15 kilometres a day—at least in your first few days, if you’re doing a multi-week trip like the Camino.

Walking five kilometres an hour is definitely possible, particularly as your shanks regain some of their vigour. But don’t press yourself into that kind of stride and purposefulness if it runs against the spiritual grain.

Thoreau had it right: four hours is optimum. And walking 15 klicks or less in that amount of time allows for the kind of soulful traverse that, in the end, should be the point. It allows for conversation if you can get it and reflection if you can’t. More distance than that and it starts to feel like a forced march. Wake up, have your breakfast and hit the road.

Then have a well-deserved lunch, and spend the rest of the day in repose—reading, writing, cultivating the civic virtues. Allow for the unseen. Take it slow.

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Culture ON THE RISE

TRICKS OF THE TORCH Twenty years ago, Minori Takagi was looking for a new hobby. She took a class at a local glass studio in Shizuoka, Japan, where she dabbled in glass-blowing but found a surprising connection to torching (otherwise known as lampworking). Takagi began specializing in intricate, one-of-akind glass beads—called tombodama—with her tiny creations ranging from ornate flowers to quirky eyeballs to kawaii fruits and veggies. Her hobby grew into a passion, and that passion into a full-blown bead business.

“In Japan, people collect them,” Takagi explains, “but they aren’t really jewellery.”

After her move to Canada in 2006, Takagi found a small studio in East Vancouver and continued her molten magic—but Western consumers weren’t as hot on cute curios. That led her to start creating art that was less about stare-ability and more about wearability. Combining her skills in lampwork with her flair for fashion, she started torching finished, wearable pieces, and her traditional techniques employed in a contemporary style were a smash (she took home a Made in Vancouver Award in the Style category last year). These days, Takagi splits her time between a shared Granville Island studio and East Van’s Terminal City Glass Co-op. Glass may be one of the least forgiving materials, but there’s no stopping Takagi’s torch: “It’s challenging, but I like the challenge.” by

Alyssa Hirose

photographs by

Kyoko Fierro

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Culture T H E H O T TA K E

o Hands-free winter adventuring is a cinch

with Hunter’s new Original Sherpa Top Clip backpack. A coated fabric wicks away moisture, while padded Sherpa straps make mountain ascent a breeze. $295, hunterboots.com

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p Kick winter to the curb

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i Banish chapped lips—the hallmark of every cold-weather warrior— with this ultra-hydrating moisturizing lip gloss from Evalina in pretty berry or blossom shades. Packed with rich emollients, vitamin E and antioxidants, the paraben-free and vegan formula will keep your pucker perfectly hydrated all season long. $28, evalinabeauty.com

n The women of Bidi Bidi,

Uganda—the world’s largest refugee camp—are true warriors; wear a symbol of their strength this winter while keeping warm with Vancouver-based Obakki’s Bidi Bidi scarf. All net proceeds go directly to help the women rebuild their lives through the funding of their own business initiatives. $89, obakkifoundation.org

k The turtleneck gets a much-needed update with Uniqlo’s longsleeved HeatTech fleece version with revamped shoulders and arms for easy movement. The revolutionary fabric works with your body to generate heat, then smartly retains it—all in a flattering drape fit. $19.90, uniqlo.ca

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n The humble sleeping

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Culture L U C Y LOV E S j A cozy crossed collar, handy kangaroo pocket and removable belt make the Bleeker cape ($230) from Canadian designer Bodybag

by Jude a must-have layering piece. middlesister.ca

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k An updated take on a ’90s cool-girl fave, the beaded Willow blue gingham purse ($850) by British luxury label Shrimps features a gingham faux-pearl design that adds pizzazz to any ’fit. shopneighbour.com

k Prim-and-proper plaid gets a grunge-y, slightly Canadiana makeover in the red plaid and vintage denim asymmetrical kimono ($1,635) by Greg Lauren, thanks to a few strategically placed frayed denim patches. leisure-center.com j Acne Studios’ supersized Cassiar check scarf ($334) pairs a striking redand-black pattern with loud logo lettering. Who knew garment-care instructions could look so chic? nordstrom.com

j Only an Off-White spray tag could elevate plaid flannel from campfire basic to streetwear staple, as demonstrated in the Virgil Abloh– designed button-up plaid flannel shirt ($919). nordstrom.com

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Culture T H E T I C K E T

Feed Father Time with this jam-packed calendar. by

Alyssa Hirose

NOAH REID DATE February 11 VENUE Imperial Theatre PRICE $25 imperialvancouver.com The Schitt’s Creek star’s soulful crooning has him on the rise in the music biz, too.

The First Time Out tour is this lovable Torontonian’s, well, first time out.

UNCLE JANES CRYSTAL QUEER COMEDY DATE February 21 VENUE Little Mountain Gallery PRICE $5 jflnorthwest.com There’s plenty of celebs in the JFL Northwest lineup, but we suggest catching a show starring the local, queer-identifying funny folks of Uncle Janes, as a treat.

TALKING STICK FESTIVAL DATE February 18 to 29 VENUE Various venues PRICE Varies, some events free or pay what you can talkingstickfest.ca

DEAR EVAN HANSEN DATE February 25 to March 1 VENUE Queen Elizabeth Theatre PRICE From $90 vancouver.broadway.com You know what they say: a hit Broadway musical needs a strong cast—and if you didn’t get that great joke, all the more reason to see the show.

KIM’S CONVENIENCE DATE February 13 to March 28 VENUE Multiple venues PRICE Price varies by location artsclub.com Suburbs, rejoice: the hilarious play following Canada’s favourite Korean shopkeeper is travelling to a theatre near you.

(We’re talking North Van, New West, Coquitlam—see online for full tour.)

ALMA DEUTSCHER DATE February 29 VENUE The Orpheum PRICE From $22 vancouversymphony.ca Fourteen-year-old Deutscher wrote her first concerto at age 12 and has been charming the world in the style of Mozart ever since.

“Nobody was coming to Indigenous work of any kind at the beginning,” says Talking Stick Festival founder Margo Kane.

In 2001, Kane says, she started the festival with “little support from the local arts community.” Unlike other fests, hers didn’t stick to singular Western forms of art: dance, music, theatre, film, spoken word and powwow were all welcome.

“In the past, there has been no place for us,” says Kane, “so we created a venue for any kind of artistic expression to be shared.”

Now in its 19th year, Talking Stick has been a slow build, with growth rooted in support from the local Indigenous community (support that’s exhibited in the 2020 theme chéńchenstway, Squamish for “upholding each other, lifting each other up”). The festival has expanded to include international acts from Australia, Mexico and New Zealand, but still focuses on local voices, and the inspirational, educational and healing qualities they offer within the Indigenous community. And today, there’s no lack of interest: “We think that maybe our festival is too short!” says Kane.

BIG SISTER DATE February 19 to 29 VENUE The Cultch PRICE From $26 thecultch.com This one-woman comedy is part of the Cultch’s Femme Series, and tells the story of one sister’s 70-pound weight loss through another sister’s eyes.

NOAH REID: NOAH REID/LIVE NATION; DEAR EVAN HANSEN: MAT THEW MURPHY; TALKING STICK: TALKING STICK FACEBOOK

Tick Talk

SINGING CAN BE A DRAG DATE February 29 VENUE Red Gate Revue Stage PRICE $35 vancouvermenschorus.ca The Vancouver Men’s Chorus transforms into a choir of queens for this drag extravaganza. Expect ballads, showtunes and a whole lotta hair.

Big Sister

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ARCHIVE CONSIGNMENT POP-UP SALE DATE February 28 to March 2 VENUE Chinese Cultural Centre PRICE Free heyarchive.ca Shop smarter and greener at Vancouver’s largest three-day consignment pop-up—one grandpa’s sweater is another gal’s shabby-chic pullover.

IS A BOUTIQUE INVESTMENT FIRM RIGHT FOR YOU?

Learn how the needs and interests of our clients remain paramount.

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NOAH REID: NOAH REID/LIVE NATION; DEAR EVAN HANSEN: MAT THEW MURPHY; TALKING STICK: TALKING STICK FACEBOOK

Archive Consignment Pop-Up Sale

PAPER ANIMATION WORKSHOP DATE March 7 VENUE The Cinematheque PRICE $12 thecinematheque.ca Transform your own drawings into paper animations (and learn what the heck thaumatropes and zoetropes are) at this beginner’s workshop.

CURRY CUP DATE March 9 VENUE Heritage Hall PRICE $69 chefstablesociety.com Now in its seventh year, the Curry Cup is our city’s hottest family-style meal competition.

Come hungry—admission gets you a taste of the curried creations of eight of Vancouver’s top chefs.

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Culture R E V I E W S

Charcoal-fried oysters

AW, SHUCKS

Papi’s Oyster Bar tries—hard—to resurrect the corner of Davie and Denman. by

Calamarata

Neal McLennan

When Captain George Vancouver first sailed into English Bay in 1792, he made two notes in the ship’s log while gazing upon what is now the city’s West End. It is a place of raw natural beauty…and parking is going to be a mother. I was thinking of Captain George as I buzzed the intersection of Davie and Denman looking for a spot before heading into Papi’s Oyster Bar. It’s a complaint every non-West Ender has about the area and as a result it’s long been a place where the restaurants were of two sorts: large chains like Cactus Club that prosper because of the tourists and small neighbourhood gems like Tavola that are revered neighbourhood boîtes.

The last restaurant to break out of this two-way mould was this establishment’s geographic predecessor, the Raincity Grill, which was so ahead of its era in terms of locavorism in 1992 that one suspects proprietor Harry Kambolis might have possessed a time machine. But even flux capacitors break down, and by 2014 Kambolis was forced to sell both Raincity and his acclaimed C Restaurant to Viaggio Hospitality Group, which turned the latter into Ancora and set about trying to recapture some magic at Davie and Denman with the former.

They first tried a concept called Beach Bay Café, perhaps the most forgettably named eatery in the city, and despite a light, airy space and some solid talent, like chef Felix Zhou (Heritage Asian Eatery), it never caught on with locals or visitors. Earlier this year they went back to the drawing board and came back with Papi’s, with the stated goal of bringing some casual into the menu and space. My initial visit, however, found a place that was casual in name only, with a

Chef Jefferson Alvarez

There’s new talent in the kitchen with chef Jefferson Alvarez bringing some swagger to the menu.

Tuna ceviche

THE DEETS

Papi’s Seafood and Oyster Bar 1193 Denman St. 604-685-7337 papisoysterbar.com

Price: Mains from $18 Best Dishes: Tuna Ceviche, Octopus and Popcorn

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CityTile-1

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604-298-6252 4330 Halifax St., Burnaby, BC V5C 3X5 info@citytileltd.ca citytileltd.com

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Now Open

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Culture R E V I E W S punitively priced wine list that didn’t scream fun or relaxed.

But retooling has been afoot—that list has been thoroughly revamped, and there’s new talent in the kitchen with chef Jefferson Alvarez (Cacao, Fraîche) bringing some swagger to the menu. Which is how I find myself looking for that elusive parking. But lo and behold, there’s a spot right in front. Things are already looking up.

It’s a Thursday at 7:45 p.m., and while the restaurant isn’t exactly hopping, it’s such a comfortable room that we happily slide into a twoperson booth with that iconic view of the bay. We quickly tuck into a platter of reasonably priced West Coast oysters ($2.25 for Chef’s Creek), and all is as it should be. Our daughter’s at soccer practice and we’re short on time, so we stick to three starters.

The fried oysters ($15) look amazing: the batter is infused with charcoal, so they materialize as a dramatic black puff studded with bright, fresh green jalapeno. Yet I don’t love them—they suffer from the plight of every fried oyster I’ve ever had; terminal mushiness on the bottom— but they’re better than most, which is all I can give them. The burrata and funghi salad ($18) is likewise a bit of a miss. The “wild” mushrooms look more grocery-store button variety than morels, and when served warm don’t work at all with the less-thangenerous amount of cold Puglian cheese spread overtop, which ends up a loose, oozing mass. But the third choice is a charm. The octopus and popcorn ($17) is a smoky line of thick, plump, perfectly cooked hunks of cephalopod, with a piquant paprika bite and a lovely char from the plancha grill. I spy Alvarez in the open kitchen and chalk up this winner of a dish to his presence.

And our server, Jeanine, couldn’t be better, with her perfect balance of attentiveness and warmth. When I tentatively mention that the Black

Cloud pinot I’ve ordered tastes like it’s been open perhaps a bit too long, it’s quickly whisked away and a fresh selection brought back in its place.

We walk out to our amazing parking spot with a positive feeling—not all the dishes were hits, but on a balance the pros beat the cons.

We return the next night, this time daughter in tow, and damned if I don’t find another perfect parking spot. And things only get better.

Jeanine is here again, and she not only remembers my wife Amanda’s drink order, but she also asks my daughter about her soccer practice.

We order the starters we missed the previous night and each one is a winner: the fish tacos ($18), ample, fresh with flawlessly fried cod; the calamarata ($16), rice flour-battered squid, a light, ethereal take on what can often be a tired dish; and the tuna ceviche ($18), full Alvarez, with

pick up the subtle but unmistakable notes of wet cardboard that tells me there’s some cork taint. It’s not overwhelming, but it’s dominating the notes of fresh red berries that one expects. I tell her I think she should send it back, but she’s reticent given that I did the same the night before, and we almost never send wine back.

But ultimately, when Jeanine returns she makes the call. The restaurant is nearly empty, so I can clearly see the small conference that ensues—the GM, a playful Italian who we’d met the night before, pours a new glass, sniffs and swirls, then returns to the table smiling with an oversized Reidel stem in his hand. “Try this,” he says. Amanda sniffs the larger glass, sips and concedes it tastes a hair different but holds that it still smells off, though she assures him she’s no wine expert. He tells her to smell the original glass again, and

I spy Alvarez in the open kitchen and chalk up this winner of a dish to his presence.” a citrus marinade counterbalanced by a coconut foam on a bed of large tuna chunks dotted with pickled red onion. We’re still riding high as the main courses arrive: the organic burger ($18) is cooked to a firm well done that doesn’t advance or detract, and the fish ’n’ chips ($18) is an insanely large portion–easily shareable by two—with a simple preparation perfectly executed. It’s the exact sort of dish a place like Papi’s needs to nail. We’re flying high now—and then Amanda orders a glass of lambrusco.

We’re just tucking into our mains as the sparkling red arrives, and I can tell by her nose lingering in the bowl that something’s amiss. “Smell this,” she says, and as I take a whiff, I

her eyes dart to me. “I don’t know what to say,” she stammers. “It really doesn’t smell—or taste—great in either glass.” He then pours the original glass into a different Reidel glass and asks that she repeat the sniff test, and again she passes it to me. “Am I crazy?” she says to me. To me they all smell varying degrees of off. Another glass of a different size is poured and the exercise repeated.

We’re now 15 minutes into this, and I’m just wanting it to end. “Maybe we just don’t love this producer’s style?”

I offer. That’s when he drops what I assume he thinks is the Big Reveal: “They’re all the same bottle!” he exclaims. It’s delivered in a playful mood, and while there’s no apparent animosity, it’s odd all the same.

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I believe he thinks he’s having delightful fun with an exercise on how a glass can change the nose of a wine, but why show that the wine would have been better served in a glass different from the one you actually served it in? Or maybe he’s telling us in a jovial manner that we don’t know what we’re talking about. By now, we’ve long finished our second course when he returns with a taster of sweet moscato—is it a conciliatory gesture or a suggestion that Amanda should stick to sweet, simple wines if she doesn’t know what lambrusco tastes like? I’m baffled and Amanda, confused, apologizes again for making a fuss. Yet he returns again and this time, he’s finally bearing a new bottle of said lambrusco. Amanda

pleads with him not to open it—or waste—a bottle now that we’ve finished eating, but he opens and pours it. She accepts the glass and immediately smiles with relief. It smells and tastes nothing like the first bottle—it’s fresh and berryforward—and so she excitedly tells him to smell the two side by side. He does and simply shrugs and smiles.

I’m still trying to process whether this was all a misinterpreted act of good-natured fun or something more pointed when the manager asks my wife what wine she ordered with our starters. She tells him the Cuma rosé, and he quickly fetches it and pours yet another tasting glass and asks her to smell it beside the lambrusco. She does and offers that it perhaps smells less fresh beside the

lambrusco, which is when he drops his final animated kicker; “It’s not good to drink lambrusco after rosé.”

We go along good naturedly, pay our bill—you can bet the lambrusco’s on there—and as we’re walking out he whispers to her, “I’m sorry for the wine.”

As I wander back to the car, I’m too distracted to even revel in the greatness of my parking spot. I had come to Papi’s skeptical of its ability to turn itself around and had been largely won over. I still feel like the room is great, prices much more competitive and there are some real stars on the menu... but I fear that if you mention the word “Papi’s” to me, none of those things will be front and centre in my mind, which seems a shame.

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Culture T H E D I S H

DRINK THIS

WE’RE THE MILLERS Not since the glory days of the Little Red Hen has milling flour been so cool.

For years, the building block of all things leaven had been treated with casual nonchalance, even by bakers with an artisanal bent. It was a disconnect that struck partners Janna Bishop and Shira McDermott as daft—why spend all that time and energy sourcing the best ingredients only to then go with commercial flour so highly processed that its own nutrients must be artificially added back in before it can be sold? They tapped some contacts from Bishop’s farming family to see if any producers might be willing to work with them to create a better flour—one with a transparent supply line and that uses freshly milled whole grain, keeping not only all its nutritional value but also a flavour profile that’s unheard of. The result is North America’s first truly artisanal flour, and they now have a swanky Craig Stanghetta-designed store to sell both the flour and the baked goods that will help convince the masses about the power of true grain. Or to just have a coffee and mill about. flourist.com

by

Neal McLennan

photograph by

Glasfurd & Walker/Ian Lanterman

1. Red Spring is the most commonly grown wheat in Canada.

2. Because this flour contains the entire wheat grain, it should ideally be refrigerated to help preserve the natural oils that come from the germ.

3. The flour is grown in Laura, Saskatchewan, by farmer Will Robbins.

4. This is the best flour for breadmaking because of its high protein content.

5. It’s milled on a hand-built machine from Austria with a design that’s remained relatively unchanged over the past seven decades.

BERNHEIM ORIGINAL W H E AT W H I S K E Y, $ 60 Rye may get all the glory for its spicy, in-your-face personality, but are you aware of the key ingredient in the I’ll-doanything-to-get-my-hands-ona-bottle phenom that is Pappy Van Winkle? Wheat. Mellow, easy-to-get-along-with wheat.

And with no Pappy in sight for the foreseeable millennium, may we then introduce you to another Kentucky import that works wonders with our national grain?

It’s a an exercise in smoothness, with vanilla and syrup easing into a warm bread experience.—N.M.

T WIN SAIL S WOULD CRUSH RASPBERRY W H E AT A L E , $ 12.83 for a four-pack Much of the fruit beer you’ll have these days is in the form of a sour or a gose, but this longtime standout from Twin Sails lives up to its name. Imminently sessionable while retaining an abundance of flavour, it’s the rare wheat beer that feels suitable for all the seasons. And for a fruited beverage, it doesn’t overwhelm one with sweetness.

There’s a reason Twin Sails is one of the more respected brewers in the game today, and this 2019 release shows why: it’s the perfect example of a “trendy” beer that doesn’t sacrifice an ounce of quality.

—Nathan Caddell

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www.frits.ca

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Culture S TA R P O W E R

TRYING SIGNS OF TRYING TIMES Do we have 20/20 vision? Optically, no.

Astrologically, the jury’s still out. Try the following with a grain of sustainably sourced sea salt, Vancouver. by

Alyssa Hirose Katy Lemay

photographs by

Aquarius January 20 – February 18 NEW YEAR, SAME YOU—your penchant for radical changemaking is awesome, Aquarius, but you’re harshing everyone’s vibe. Spend some much-needed chill time relaxing with your friends, your family or yourself. Do not spend time with your neighbour; he is not worth the emotional energy. Try ordering guac even though it’s extra.

Pisces February 19 – March 20 IS IT TOO ON THE GILLS to connect the fish sign with the leg-lacking Ariel at the beginning of The Little Mermaid? Call us Ishmael, but it seems like your tendencies toward fantasy and escapism could harpoon your happily ever after.

You might think you have a total catch, but your standards are way below sea level. Try reeling ’em in with sustainability–themed pickup lines.

ARIES

March 21 – April 19 Your professional life will be c(ram)med with projects and responsibilities, but the good news is, literally nothing can go wrong in the romance department.

Try ignoring your lover’s “good morning” texts while posting on Instagram, just to see what happens.

TAURUS

April 20 – May 20 Self-care isn’t all sparkling bubble baths and lavender essential oil.

Put in a few hours at the gym—this is a great time for you to form new habits, because it’s not like your career is going anywhere. Try listening to true crime podcasts to make you run faster.

GEMINI

May 21 – June 20 Your friends are going to be extra-sensitive this month, and even though that’s totally not your fault, you should probably go out of your way not to embarrass them. Do not wear white sneakers to work.

Try shutting up once in a while.

CANCER

June 21 – July 22 It’s still cuffing season and you’re still shelled up; give others a taste of your insides, you secret softie, you. Try crying for five minutes each day instead of six hours straight biannually.

LEO

July 23 – August 22 Your passion will pay off romantically, but we’d be lion if we told you to expect change at work. Physical health should be your mane focus. Your buddies are tired of hearing you whine about your lower back; try going to the doctor and whining to a professional.

VIRGO

August 23 – September 22 Good things will come without effort. Your goals will be reached easily, and people will love you for the practical support you offer.

Unfortunately, every fruit you eat will be slightly too ripe or not ripe enough. Try juicing.

LIBRA

September 23 – October 22 Scale back that indecision and take the opportunities offered to you—the FOMO will be real if you don’t. Try taking someone iceskating and then asking them if their hands are cold.

SCORPIO

October 23 – November 21 Distractions will sting you this season—focus, please. Stop checking your phone. Hello? Just read this without—hey, it’s only 38 words.

Look up here. Anyway, try challenging your colleagues to staring contests. Just focus.

You can do—

SAGITTARIUS

November 22 – December 21 Stop depending on others to educate you. Go to the library, the actual library, and borrow a DVD. While you’re at it, borrow a DVD player.

Try listening to the main menu music for an hour or two. Write down what you’ve learned.

CAPRICORN

December 22 – January 19 There’s more to life than work—you also have rent, relationships and the environment to worry about. Focus less on your career and more on everything else that’s probably going to go wrong. Write down your worries using nontoxic, biodegradable ink, then consume them before they consume you.

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Pairs well with your New Year’s resolution.

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