Western Living AB, November/December 2019

WESTERN LIVING NOV/DEC 2019 B.C. & ALBERTA L VOLUME 48 L NUMBER 9

2019 Editors’ Choice

BEST MAGAZINE, SMALL CIRCULATION

Comfort & Joy WESTERNLIVING .CA // COMFORT & JOY

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NOV/DEC 2019

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Best Brunch Ever: The New Holiday Cocktail Party

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EyeSight™ is a driver-assist system which may not operate optimally under all driving conditions. The driver is always responsible for safe and attentive driving. System effectiveness depends on many factors such as vehicle maintenance, and weather and road conditions. Vehicle shown solely for purposes of illustration, and may not be equipped exactly as shown.

See Owner’s Manual for complete details on system operation and limitations. Some features described or shown may not be standard features or equipment. Ratings are awarded by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS). Please visit www.iihs.org for testing methods. ALG is the industry benchmark for residual values and depreciation data. www.alg.com.

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DESIGN

20

Holiday Gift Guide

High-design goods for everyone on your shopping list, from the industrial modernist to the sleek minimalist.

75

28

20

Great Spaces

East Vancouver’s newest Italian spot, Sprezzatura, showcases a casual confidence.

30

Holiday Decor We Love

Subtle sparkle and subdued hues make for a sophisticated holiday look.

FEATURES 34

Birds of a Feather

Vancouver designer Kendall Ansell feeds her Chrismas obsession.

57

Bites

Cool kitchen gadgets, new cookbooks and restaurant news to chew on.

60

28

Morning Glory

A cocktail-party-style holiday brunch makes mixing and mingling a (delicious) breeze.

Grand Entrance

Sarah Duyker brings her doorwaydecorating skills home for the holidays.

46

Historic Holiday

Restoring a 100-plus-year-old house is a labour of love for designer Kerri-Lee Watson.

71

The Check-In

New York’s Hudson Yards development is the city’s most intriguing new ’hood.

75

Westside Story

Skip the Honolulu crowds: Oahu’s wild and wonderful west coast awaits.

PLUS

82

Trade Secrets

Kresswell’s moody black-on-black kitchen is a walk on the dark side.

60 1 0 n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r 2 0 1 9 / westernliving.ca

CONTENTS

34 “Every piece there has a story— that’s what makes a home really feel like Christmas.”

–Kendall Ansell

Cover: Janis Nicolay; this page: Sprezzatura: Tobyn Ross; Citrus Salad: Tracey Kusiewicz; Four Seasons: Christian Horan; Christmas table: Janis Nicolay

36

FOOD + TRAVEL

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WESTERN LIVING editorial publisher Samantha Legge, MBA editorial director Anicka Quin executive editor Stacey McLachlan art director Jenny Reed travel editor Neal McLennan assistant editor Alyssa Hirose contributing editors Amanda Ross, Nicole Sjöstedt,

Barb Sligl, Jim Sutherland, Julie Van Rosendaal city editors Karen Ashbee (Calgary), Julia Dilworth (Victoria) editorial intern Ju sneel Mahal email mail@westernliving.ca

westernliving.ca online coordinator Theresa Tran production manager Kristina Borys production support technician Ina Bowerbank designer Amanda Siegmann sales, marketing and events coordinator Alexandra Day vancouver/victoria tel 604-299-7311 head office/sales inquiries web westernliving.ca tel 604-299-7311 email gsepulveda@canadawide.com

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chairman & ceo Peter Legge, OBC, LLD (HON) president Samantha Legge, MBA senior vp of integration Brad Liski vp of content marketing Ryan McKenzie vp of digital Kevin Hinton vp of hr/admin Joy Ginete-Cockle vp of finance Sonia Roxburgh, CPA, CGA vp of innovation and growth Jennifer Smith, CIMBS executive creative director Rick Thibert creative director Cathy Mullaly director of editorial Michael McCullough director of production Kim McLane director of circulation Tracy McRitchie marketing lead Chris Hinton systems administrator Brian Fakhraie accounting Terri Mason, Eileen Gajowski circulation Katie Gajowski, Kelly Kalirai, Lori North executive assistant to ceo Charie Ginete-Ilon PRIVACY POLICY From time to time, other organizations ask us if they may send some of our subscribers information about products and services that might be of interest. If you prefer that we not provide your name and address, please contact us at the address listed above.

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WESTERN LIVING MAGAZINE is published 9 times a year by Canada Wide Media Limited, Suite 230, 4321 Still Creek Drive, Burnaby, B.C. V5C 6S7. Phone 604-299-7311; fax 604-299-9188. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited. All reproduction requests must be made to COPIBEC (paper reproductions), 800-717-2022, or CEDROM-SNi (electronic reproductions), 800-563-5665. The publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photographs. This publication is indexed in the Canadian Magazine Index and the Canadian Periodical Index, and is available online in the Canadian Business & Current Affairs Database. ISSN 1920-0668 (British Columbia edition), ISSN 1920-065X (Alberta edition). Canadian Publications Mail Product Sales Agreement #40065475.

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EDITOR’S NOTE

HOW SOON IS TOO SOON TO KICK OFF THE SEASON?

Q& A This month we asked our contributors, What are your favourite holiday traditions?

Lucy Lau, “Holiday Gift Guide” page 20 Instead of turkey or ham, my family typically makes Cantonese-style lobster with ginger and scallions for the holidays. We eat family style and it’s always a messy, glorious feast.

Janis Nicolay, “Grand Entrance” page 36 Some of my favourite holiday traditions are listening to festive music as soon as it starts on Sirius (my face is red as I type this), making Christmas crackers—including the tissue paper hats—for the entire family (it’s huge), and watching every holiday movie available.

BEHIND THE SCENES

Photographer Janis Nicolay captures a gingerbread baking session with seven-year-old Ashton (left) and his four-year-old cousin, Jack, at home for our cover story (page 36). Hardest task for our art director, Jenny Reed, this month? Trying to choose just one from the dozens of adorable shots Nicolay caught of these two.

VISIT

anick a quin, editorial director anick a.quin@westernliving.ca

FOLLOW US ON

Anicka Quin portrait: Evaan Kheraj; styling by Luisa Rino, stylist assistant Araceli Ogrinc; makeup by Melanie Neufeld; outfit courtesy Holt Renfrew, holtrenfrew.com; photographed at the Polygon Gallery.

Follow Anicka on Instagram @aniqua

Disclosure: as I write this it’s late October, so it’s technically not quite holiday season.

But in the magazine world, the Christmas spirit comes to you in July, when the team starts planning all the holiday content for the November/December issue. This means by late fall, long before the acceptable (read: not crazytown) window for putting up Christmas decorations, I’m itching to get my own tree up. (I did get an early—if short—hit this past weekend, when I visited my mom in Ontario and helped her hang her outdoor lights during a rare warm spell. They’re poised to be officially plugged in the day after Halloween, which is as long as she can stand to wait.)

This year, I’ll be spending the holidays with my sister’s family in Calgary, which means I’ve already started taking baking requests from my niece and nephew: Auntie Anicka-made favourites like chocolate tahini brownies, pavlova with lemon cream and double chocolate chip cookies. None of it seems classically festive (perhaps I’ll throw a handful of cranberries in there?) but, at this time of year, it’s the makingit-togetherness while we binge-watch episodes of Holiday Baking Championship that make it feel seasonal. (That, and sugar. So much sugar.)

I’m also keen to introduce a few new traditions this season, including Julie Van Rosen­ daal’s take on a cocktail party-style brunch (the mimosas are for adults only, of course). Her mini cardamom-cinnamon buns with eggnog icing are giving me sweet dreams, while the adorable mini eggs Benny on parmesan-pepper biscuits are going to win me extra auntie points come Christmas morning. (For these recipes and more, turn to page 60.)

Perhaps you’re also the type of person who can’t wait for the all-clear to cue up the Christmas music. Or, you might prefer a contained holiday season—setting out the decorations only in the month that starts with “D” and no earlier. Whenever you like to kick off the festivities, and whatever your traditions might be, the whole team here at WL wishes you all the best: may your holiday table be full of goodness, and your home always full of warmth.

1 4 n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r 2 0 1 9 / westernliving.ca

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The Most Wonderful Time

Janis Nicolay

Rock and Roll

Seven-year-old Ashton (left) gets into gingerbread baking with his cousin, Jack, aged four. Story page 36.

We’ve caught the holiday spirit: from our annual gift guide (just turn the page) to a great and green festive design that’s also home to these gingerbread-baking kids (page 36), this issue celebrates the time of year when the lights go up, the friends and family arrive and we’re all celebrating together. westernliving.ca / n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r

2 0 1 9 1 9

DESIGN // HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

BY LU C Y L AU

Just Deserts

For the

Inspired by the colours and motifs of the desert, Ferm Living’s Mirage cushions ($125 each) are earthy enough to ground a space but still have plenty of charm. espacedonline.com

MAXIMALIST

Playful graphics, offbeat shapes, all colours of the rainbow, oh my! Show some love to the design risk-taker in your life with these eccentric, personality-packed picks.

On the Clock

Part of a collection of ceramic clocks designed by George Nelson for Vitra in the 1950s, Model 2 ($470) features a punchy, pop art-inspired shape that makes a statement on nightstands. eq3.com

Warped Tour

The freehand construction of the Smash serving spoons (from $80) by Vancouver-based metalsmith Stefanie Dueck results in elegantly distorted utensils that serve their purpose with no shortage of character. shop.stefaniedueck.com

Kinda Blue

Modelled after the curves of a woman and drenched in Klein blue, the Matisse woman vase ($190) by Victoria-based ceramicist Rachel Saunders is a showstopper whether it’s holding blooms or standing on its own. rookandrose.com

In Bloom

Discarded plastic finds new life in Sancal’s Flower Power vases (from $40 each), which act as textile shams for disposable water bottles.

Choose from cheery prints that depict everything from grids and polka dots to anthropomorphic cats and bananas. pompandcircumstance.ca

Open Book Ear Candy

Inspired by Russian constructivist art, Vancouver-based Erica Leal Jewellery’s Golden Age earrings ($675) combine bronze, acrylic and resin to stunning effect. ericalealjewellery.com

Dive deep into Kelly Wearstler’s eclectic aesthetic with Kelly Wearstler: Evocative Style ($75), the first book from the celebrated American designer in 10 years. Expect behindthe-interiors insights and images of neverbefore-photographed spaces. indigo.ca

2 0 n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r 2 0 1 9 / westernliving.ca

HabitatN

kitchens

HabitatNOV19FP_as.indd 1

bathrooms

sofas

closets

furniture

doors

2019-09-27 12:58 PM

DESIGN // HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

Building Block

Stack ’em to create centrepieces and bookends or display them on a bookshelf. Whatever you choose, Sancal’s solid-wood Icon blocks (from $85 each) will take you back to playtime in the sandbox. pompandcircumstance.ca

For the

MINIMALIST

Sleek objects with pared-down lines, no-fuss forms and a distinct Scandi-chic aesthetic for those who live by the adage “less is more.”

Day by Day

Queen’s Guard

Board-game night goes high design with West Elm’s acrylic chess set ($209). It’s an object that will challenge your mind as much as it will jazz up your coffee table. westelm.ca

Stay on track with the mountain cabin desk calendar ($28) from Vancouver’s Cabin and Cub. The handmade birchwood base comes with 12 calendar months and is laser-cut with outlines of evergreens for a hit of West Coast cool. etsy.ca

Dine In

Tea Party

Take the KISS principle—that’s keep it simple, silly—to the kitchen with Nothing Fancy: Unfussy Food for Having People Over ($34) by New York Times food columnist Alison Roman.

Filled with easy-to-pull-off recipes and bright, beautiful imagery, it’ll be your new secret weapon for dinner parties both big and intimate. indigo.ca

Scandi simplicity meets Japanese sensibility in Stelton’s Theo line (from $41 for mug with coaster to $130 for coffee maker), now available in a soothing sand hue. The matte finish and natural bamboo accents make the stoneware pieces apropos for afternoon cuppas and grand tea ceremonies alike. providehome.com

Breaking Dishes

Vancouver-based Fable makes modern, high-quality dinnerware, including the Aesop dinner plate ($60 for set of four in speckled white or noir), at an accessible price point. Plus, a portion of each sale goes toward helping end youth hunger via MealShare. fablehome.co 2 2 n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r 2 0 1 9 / westernliving.ca

Beam Me Up

A light beam reimagined for the tabletop, the Beam lamp ($349)—designed by Vancouver-born Tom Chung for Muuto— emits adjustable levels of brightness from both ends of its cylindrical body. shop.vanspecial.com

DESIGN // HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

For the

INDUSTRIAL MODERNIST

Catch Fire

From concrete diffusers to stainless-steel carbonators, these effortlessly cool pieces would fit right into a New York City loft— perfect for friends and fam with raw, industrial-leaning style.

Eldvarm’s Companion tool set (from $1,003), designed

by Emma Olbers, makes tending to the fire a stylish task. It includes accessories like tongs and a blow poker, all available in a customizable palette of beech and painted steel, or beech and leather. informinteriors.com

Turn the Dial

For those who prefer the traditional broadcast experience to streaming, there’s Tivoli’s Model One radio (from $250)—it hit the market in 2017 and has been on our wish list ever since. The wood cabinet may have a mid-century feel, but the tech is 100-percent current: it produces the crispest sound quality on the market. designhouse.com

Whisked Away

At once a chic coaster and pleasingly crafted design object, the Machined whisky tray (from $285) by Londonbased label Buster and Punch offers imbibers a place to rest their glass. Choose from steel, brass or black metal. dadeartanddesignlab.com

Bubble Up

Count on the Swedes to build an appliance you want to show off. Exhibit A: the Stockholm-based Aarke’s Carbonator II (from $259), a stainlesssteel carbonator (in white, black, brass, steel or copper) that’s as snazzy as it is efficient. dadeartanddesignlab.com

Hold the Phone

A smartphone that does it all deserves an equally sleek, multitasking cover—like Mujjo’s full leather wallet case ($110). The Dutch-designed sleeve is lined with Japanese microfibre for extra padding and has a handy slot for IDs and credit cards. litchfieldtheshop.com 2 4 n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r 2 0 1 9 / westernliving.ca

Plant a Seed

The rigid construction of Vancouver-based Mind the Minimal’s marble cylinder concrete planters ($28 for small size and $35 for medium size) offer a satisfying juxtaposition to the organic forms they hold. etsy.ca

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DESIGN // HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

For the

NATURALIST

Keep the holidays easy-breezy and decidedly down to earth with these au naturel objects—many of them handmade and curated with the boho devotee in mind.

Hanging by a Thread

Blue Crush

Victoria-based JMP Flow and Design gives the classic charcuterie board a dreamy update with its wood and resin cheese board ($80), which combines acacia wood with swirling art in galactic shades of blue. etsy.ca

A modern take on the macramé trend, Closed Mondays’ sunny hanging planters ($82 for small size and $125 for large size) are a smart way to introduce some greenery into spatially challenged abodes. muchandlittle.com

Smoke and Mirrors

Victoria’s Picot Collective makes home and body goods, all with one custom scent: the sweet, smoky and sumptuous honey tobacco.

Try the unisex fragrance in the honey tobacco crystal roller ($40), which comes with a crystal roller ball that may be personalized as desired (rose quartz for healing, for example, or amethyst for clarity). picotcollective.com

Cup of Tea

Vancouver-based Woash Wellness’s nourishing (and nutritionist-approved) loose-leaf tea blends ($12.50 each) make self-care easy. Choose from varieties like the milk oolong-infused Think, meant to boost brain function, and the caffeine-free Immunity, meant to fend off colds. nineteenten.ca

Knock on Wood

Ingrid Kitsch, the designer behind the Dauphin, Manitobabased Knitgrid, came up with this Mother Natureinspired macramé wall hanging ($68) as an alternative to the standard wreath that typically decorates front doors. theliveryshop.com 2 6 n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r 2 0 1 9 / westernliving.ca

Drink Up

The Everyday cup ($30 each) by Victoria-based Wicked Wanda Pottery has an attractive tapered shape and calming pastel glaze (in lilac, sage or cloud) that makes it ideal for, well, every day. erikaarbournevins.com

Basket Case

Aussie-based J’Jute puts a fun twist on the typical jute vessel with the Ecole Meeting jute basket ($430). Use it to stash pillows and throws, and grasp the wavy handles to take it to any room you please. providehome.com

Follow the Rainbow

Featuring inventive colour pairings like khaki and purple and toffee and turquoise, the Bang! cushions (from $255 each), designed by Elena Castaño-López for Sancal, were made to be mixed, matched and mixed again. pompandcircumstance.ca

©2019 B SH H OM E A PPL I A NC E S C OR POR ATI ON. A L L R I GH TS R E SE R V E D.

Vancouver Calgary N & S

Surrey Edmonton N & S

Coquitlam Saskatoon

Abbotsford Regina

Victoria Winnipeg

Nanaimo Vaughan

Kelowna Burlington

DESIGN // GREAT SPACES

CAREFREE COOL

This gastropub-inspired Vancouver restaurant makes hard work look easy.

2 8 n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r 2 0 1 9 / westernliving.ca

No Fuss

The right side of the restaurant features a custom table clad in reclaimed barn board, which serves up baked goods and coffee in the morning. Exposed black metal framed shelving holds key ingredients and some greenery. It transitions easily into a cold prep area in the evenings.

“It’s designed to make the space feel like it’s not fussy or formal, just really approachable and open,” says Gomes.

Tobyn Ross

Sprezzatura is an Italian word meaning “a studied nonchalance”—effort that appears effortless. A perfect paradox, and an apt name for a brand-new restaurant in Vancouver’s Mount Pleasant neighbourhood showcasing vintage photographs, exposed bulbs and distressed floors with plenty of calculated cool.

“It’s been a long dream in the making,” says Nicole Gomes, senior designer at Sophie Burke Design. Burke herself and Sprezzatura owner Michael Parker are longtime friends, and dreamed up the collaboration decades ago while both were living in London. Parker’s idea for the restaurant was a callback to his London days: a British gastropub-style hotspot that served casual Italian eats. But gastropub essentials (think wainscoting, millwork details and antique appliances) don’t quite flow with modern design—or health codes: “They’re worn down, they’re vintage, nothing’s clean,” says Gomes. The trio set out to preserve a pub vibe while keeping the space safe and stylish.

They started with the pizza bar, an expansive stretch of counter clad in reclaimed barn board and a natural black soapstone that’s well-suited for piping-hot pies. Light green pendant lights from Amsterdam make a major statement, and uneven subway tiles provide a casual structure. “We didn’t want anything to feel clean or sleek or new,” Gomes says. The entire pizza prep area is open; it has the sort of intentional nonchalance that gives the restaurant its name.

The 17-foot-high ceilings and wall-towall windows posed a challenge for Burke and Parker, who wanted the space to reflect a pub-like warmth and intimacy. Another paradox, another solution: using an almost-black paint, Burke sunk the ceiling line a few feet. This creates the illusion of coziness without sacrificing any space. She dropped the eye level further with more pendant lighting, and translated the traditional wooden wainscoting of an old-school British haunt into a dark blue plaster treatment. Running eight feet up the walls, it provides the space with a modern playfulness. “It gives so much texture to the space, and lends itself to feeling more authentic to the building,” says Gomes.

“It doesn’t look like there’s effort—it’s just there.”—Alyssa Hirose

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2019-09-10 4:09 PM

DESIGN // HOLIDAY DECOR WE LOVE

BY B A R B S L I G L

MERRY MONOCHROME

Snowy Showcase

As cool as the arctic tundra it’s inspired by, the (resin, not reindeer!)

Hayden antler pendant light ($729), designed by Brett Beldock for CB2, is dramatic yet demure in bright white and warm brass. cb2.com

Here’s to a more subtle sparkle this holiday season, with soft and muted lustre, neutral hues and crisp black and white.

Subtle Scandi

These embroidered Copenhagen ornaments ($18) depict icons of the home city of design studio Ferm Living, including the kringle pastry and Christiania bike, and add a sweet, nostalgic pop to verdant evergreen boughs. shop.vanspecial.com

Nordic Nod

Minimalist and modern, the black-and-white simplicity of this Nordic Tree platter from Crate and Barrel ($30) is a graphic backdrop for Christmas stollen, or anything else you serve guests during the party season. crateandbarrel.com

Take Flight

An unexpected objet d’art for the holiday bar, the Saikai crow bottle opener ($43)— made from Nambu cast iron created in a process that dates back to the 17th century in northern Japan—is as richly black as the feathered creature from which it takes its form. providehome.com

Bauhaus melds with cane craftsmanship in this functional-art nutcracker with cane by Carl Auböck ($845). The brass patina and fibre-wrapped handles bring a soft sheen and old-world character to the festive table. avenue-road.com

Circle Hole vases ($60) by Lisa Warren, neighbourhoodqualitygoods.ca

Giving Tree

Get into the holiday spirit with the wood Advent calendar from West Elm ($111). Its simple shape suggests a Christmas tree, but here the treats are stored within wee drawers for month-long giftgiving. westelm.ca

Cracking Design

designer’s pick

Julia Mior

Round and Round “The personalities of these vases are perfect for the inevitable parade of berry-filled bouquets for holiday table settings!”

Julia Mior of Julia Mior Rugs, Vancouver, juliamior.com

3 0 n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r 2 0 1 9 / westernliving.ca

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HOMES // BIRDS OF A FEATHER

BIRDS OF A FEATHER Designer Kendall Ansell brings her happy obsession with Christmas to life with this silver and pretty-in-pink holiday decor scheme— adding a few feathered friends to the mix.

by Susan Bryant // photographs by Janis nicolay 3 4 n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r 2 0 1 9 / westernliving.ca

Good as Gold

“We knew our wreath would be made of sprayed gold ferns, so we wanted to fit with that in the mantel arrangement,” says Ansell. She brought in touches of gold in the stockings, and the boughs on the mantel (designed by Studio Full Bloom) have a light and feathery feel (opposite, top). For the table settings, Ansell was whimsical (opposite, bottom). The placesetting cards were from Kerrisdale Lumber, as were the decorations, the crowned birds. “It’s so funny.

We don’t do a lot of traditional design until it comes time for Christmas,” says Ansell. “Everyone reverts back to a childhood state—birds and animals!”

A Little Sparkle

The powder room naturally fit into Ansell's holiday decor scheme with its graphic wallpaper (right). She went with a simple, spray-painted gold arrangement so as not to compete with the feature wall. In the master bedroom (below), a frosted wreath complements the room's cool grey colour palette.

It didn’t take long for designer Kendall Ansell and her client to realize they were a perfect match to team up for the Kids Help Phone Homes for the Holidays tour last year in Vancouver. “We’re both obsessed with Christmas,” laughs Ansell. The annual tour pairs designers with homeowners who are game to have their spaces transformed into winter wonderlands for the weekend, and allow ticket holders to experience a little holiday spirit, too, as they visit the homes. And Ansell wanted those guests to be wowed. “We wanted it to be over the top,” she says.

Working with the homeowner’s existing home colour palette of cool greys and soft neutrals, Ansell opted for a silver and pale pink decor theme throughout. A flocked tree felt like a perfect fit, and it’s Ansell’s favourite moment in the room. “It’s filled with little animals— dancing ballerinas, stuffed pigs, some owls, a few hot pink balls,” she says. “It’s a theme that carries through the home—there are a lot of features, and little hints of gold everywhere.”

While Ansell worked with partners like Kerrisdale Lumber and Hunters Garden Centre to bring in a lot of the holiday decor, many of the pieces came from the client herself. “What I loved is that they’re all pieces that have been acquired over the years,” she says.

“Every piece there has a story—that’s what makes a home really feel like Christmas.”

This year’s Kids Help Phone Homes for the Holidays Tour takes place November 30 and December 1. Find tickets at kidshelpphone.ca westernliving.ca / n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r

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Green Christmas

Homeowner Sarah Duyker loves to use natural decor in her holiday designs, which translates into her business, designing seasonal front entryways—including her own (opposite).

GRAND ENTRANCE Designer Sophie Burke and her client, Sarah Duyker, pair up to bring a modern, organic spin to a formerly traditional home design. by anicka quin // photographs by janis nicolay

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HOMES // GRAND ENTRANCE

Y

ou can catch a hint of the naturally inspired holiday scene that’s inside Sarah Duyker’s North Vancouver home as you walk up to the front porch. Two potted spruce—a twin set—sit on either side of the entry, each decorated with pinecones, pink pepper berries and white glowing candles. It’s the type of woodsy, effortlessly elegant arrangement that actually does take both effort and a smart design eye—and so it’s no surprise that its creator has rolled her love of natural design into the business of decorating, yes, front doorways.

Duyker and her business partner, Cindy Mast, launched their front-porch seasonal decorating service—called Stoops—just over a year ago. “I love gardening and the changing of the seasons, and the business was born out of that,” says Duyker. Autumn arrangements might include fall grasses and millet in tones of the season, along with heirloom pumpkins and a warm-hued wreath. Spring might see cherry blossoms in thoughtful arrangements. Holidays, of course, mean evergreens and the muted colours you see on Duyker’s own front porch.

While she had a strong vision for what the exterior entrance should be, for the inside of her home Duyker recruited designer Sophie Burke to strip back a once-traditional design to a more modern space. “I really love understated, natural design as an overall aesthetic,” says Duyker.

For the renovation, Burke’s team worked to cull any excess finishes—like arches and mouldings in the kitchen, and an awkward pantry that chopped up the kitchen

“We tried to insert a more austere and clean aesthetic into a more traditional envelope.”

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Vancouver Calgary N & S

Surrey Edmonton N & S

Coquitlam Saskatoon

Abbotsford Regina

Victoria Winnipeg

Nanaimo Vaughan

Kelowna Burlington

HOMES // GRAND ENTRANCE

Home Sweet Home

Duyker tends to hot apple cider at the stove. On the counter, pepperwood berries bring a soft red and holiday flair to the kitchen.

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layout—and introduced simpler materials, including a limestone fireplace surround. “We look at this design as a kind of ‘modern Shaker,’” says Burke. “We tried to insert a more austere and clean aesthetic into a more traditional envelope.”

The kitchen is now designed so that the whole family—including her three sons, aged seven, nine and 11—can easily help out with the dinner prep. “I feel like it’s important, raising boys, to get them to pitch in and help,” says Duyker. “Functionally, we designed it so the kids can really participate in the kitchen from a chores perspective.” To wit, there are no upper cabinets—everything is accessible in the lower drawers. “My eldest loves to cook,” she says, “and my middle ones love to set the table, with proper napkins and everything.”

Knowing that Duyker already had a great sense of style and interesting collections—including pieces from potter Janaki Larsen, and objets d’art from local design shop Provide—Burke included open display where the upper cabinets would have been. “Some clients are scared of open space because they don’t know what to put there,” says Burke. “She has beautiful pieces, so she was happy to have places for display.”

Visual Feast

Holiday colour comes in from natural sources, like the dehydrated orange slices Duyker makes, or the pomegranates that dot the pantry shelves.

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HOMES // GRAND ENTRANCE

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Pretty Simple

The cabinets on the island are simple Shaker design, while the perimeter cabinets have a saw-cut reveal. “We wanted to be respectful of the style of the house,” says designer Sophie Burke, “and so didn’t go crazy-modern in the kitchen.” The cutting boards on the kitchen counter are from North Vancouver maker Alexis Dodd, of Steelwood. “I spotted her at the Address Assembly show,” says Duyker, “and she has a cool story—she has this woodworking store with her dad, and she uses reclaimed wood.”

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HOMES // GRAND ENTRANCE

Festive Cheer

An olive-branch wreath with pepper berries brings an organic, festive touch to the chandelier. The dining room table was crafted by local furniture designers Lock and Mortice, and the chairs are Wishbone; the large artwork is by Jessica Bell.

For the holiday season, the same natural and organic style that Duyker brings to her business is seen throughout her home. Tree ornaments are felted wool, and wooden beaded garlands wrap the tree. A eucalyptus garland rests atop the mantel, and any colour comes from nature, too: pomegranates on the kitchen shelves; preserved orange slices Duyker creates by dehydrating them at low temperature in the oven. “In general, we like to keep our entertaining casual,” says Duyker. “Nothing’s overly fussy, and everything is served family-style— which is why the kitchen is great. The kids regularly make gingerbread in here, too, though they usually eat them before they’re decorated!”

Whether it’s holiday season or a regular week, the home has a welcoming, warm spirit that invites you to stay awhile. “I loved that Sophie’s design feels really authentic and lived in, and not too fussy. She adds a real warmth to the space—it’s just not cluttered,” says Duyker.

“I have three busy boys, so my house is very busy and loud,” she adds with a laugh. “Visually, I just wanted it to be calm.”

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Sleep Tight

In the master bedroom, linens are from Vancouver company Flax Sleep, while the throw pillows are from Merci in Paris. “I wanted to buy everything in that store!” laughs Duyker.

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HISTORIC HOLIDAY

Restoring a 100-year-old home is a labour of love for designer Kerri-Lee Watson— and the results offer the perfect stage for a classic Christmas design. by anicka quin // photographs by janis nicolay

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Traditional Holiday

The tabletop rose Christmas tree (right) was created by Mary Kelava of Orchard Lane Floral Design, a friend of designer Kerri-Lee Watson. “I wanted a showstopper to fill the antique silver punch bowl I had,” she says. The stuffed reindeer from Indigo in the family room (opposite) was a big hit on the Homes for the Holiday home tour.

“I could have sold 100 of those!” laughs Watson.

If these walls could talk!” laughs designer Kerri-Lee Watson. Her historic home in Vancouver’s Shaughnessy neighbourhood has had 10 owners and many incarnations in its 100-plus-year history, among them a fraternity, a rooming house and a retirement home known as the Twin Cedars Lodge. “There were many renovations that had not been kind to this poor house,” she says.

Watson was already in the process of building a new, modern home on the city’s west side; that project was hung up in the permitting process at City Hall when she spotted this one. “I was looking for another project,” she says, “and this was right around the corner from us. I saw it crumbling and felt sorry for it.” What was meant to be a quick job—a, “let’s do this in the meantime”—soon became an all-out renovation.

Watson started by stripping away anything that wasn’t original to the 1912 home: fire escapes, a musty closed-in back porch, a commercial stove vent, skylights and inappropriate millwork. The home would be the first one to go through the City of Vancouver planning department’s new First Shaughnessy guidelines, published in 2015. (Those guidelines are meant to protect any pre-1940s homes in the area—they can’t be torn down and must be renovated.) “There were lots of eyes on this restoration,” Watson says.

She had the original floor plan, and tried to return the space to its original design as much westernliving.ca / n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r

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HOMES // HISTORIC HOLIDAY

The Inspiration

The unusual orange and chartreuse colour palette for Watson’s holiday decor design was inspired by the chinoiserie wallpaper in her dining room. The china at each place setting belonged to her grandmother (opposite).

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HOMES // HISTORIC HOLIDAY

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Welcome Home

As Watson renovated the home, she wanted to return it as closely as possible to its original floor plan. Crown mouldings and baseboards were documented and recreated when they couldn’t be salvaged. And for the holiday scene set here, design students from BCIT were recruited to decorate the tree and the front door.

“Even though it’s temporary decor, we still need to incorporate good design principals,” says Watson.

as she could. “There was scarring on the floor, so you could tell where walls had been moved—and not safely!” she says. Of course, some modern alterations were necessary—like a seismic upgrade. The home was structurally reinforced with steel, lifted off its foundation, and excavated, and a new basement was poured.

Any crown moulding and baseboards were carefully documented and recreated where they couldn’t be salvaged, and Watson’s team managed to save the original leaded glass windows and living room pocket doors. It was a labour of love to bring the home back to its original grandeur.

Needless to say, with its historic design and classic beauty, it was the perfect fit for inclusion in last year’s Kids Help Phone Homes for the Holidays tour. Watson went all in decorating it for the season. “I thought it had to be maximalism instead of minimalism,” she says, and then laughs. “I’m still vacuuming up glitter!”

She opted for a less-traditional colour pairing of orange and chartreuse. “I wanted to use a colour palette that was unconventional, but also complementary to the existing decor,” she says. The colour choice came from the chinoiserie wallpaper in the dining room. Long-time friend Mary Kelava of Orchard Lane Floral Design came on board for the florals. “That rose Christmas tree in the dining room, that’s Mary’s vision,” says Watson. “I just said I wanted a showstopper to fill the antique silver punch bowl I had.” westernliving.ca / n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r

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HOMES // HISTORIC HOLIDAY

All the Fixings

“In my family, wrapping is a take-no-prisoners competitive sport!” says Watson, who has her own wrapping zone set up in the study during the holidays (right). For the tour, she recruited friend Lucie Radcliffe to design a perfect replica of the home in gingerbread—including melted Jolly Rancher windows (below).

On the dining table, Watson brought out her grandmother’s china, which was originally from Ireland, along with Turkish tea glasses she had on hand. She paired the dinnerware with gold chargers she found at Walmart; the amber-coloured wine glasses were spotted at Pier 1; and the silverware was a gift from a friend. “It’s definitely high-low,” she says.

She also recruited friend Lucie Radcliffe—a “mad scientist baker,” says Watson, whose blog Lucie Bakes has attracted the likes of Tiffany and Co.—to design custom cookies for a holiday launch. Watson gave her the architectural drawings for the home, and Radcliffe recreated the house in gingerbread, right down to the stained-glass windows crafted from Jolly Ranchers. “The window placements, the bargeboards, everything is accurate,” she says.

In another ode to her family and the transformation they create over the holidays, Watson converted her home office into a wrapping station for the tour—something she regularly does. “In my family, wrapping is a take-no-prisoners competitive sport!” she laughs. “I have everything on hand to make it easy to whip together a beautiful presentation.”

Given how beautifully she’s revitalized this once-neglected vintage beauty, that’s no surprise.

This year’s Kids Help Phone Homes for the Holidays Tour takes place November 30 and December 1. Find tickets at kidshelpphone.ca

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C R U E LT Y A N D PA R A B E N F R E E E VA L I N A B E A U T Y. C O M

10/28/19 4:43 PM

FOOD+TRAVEL H O T R E S TA U R A N T S L T H E N E W N E W Y O R K L O A H U C A L L I N G

R EC I P E

With a Twist

Shallon Cunningham

For the past 20 years, Katie Mitzel has been making her way through the Rocky Mountains, but her activity of choice isn’t backcountry skiing: it’s cooking.

The remote lodges that dot the Canadian wilderness—from Lake Louise’s Skoki Lodge to the accessible-only-by-helicopter Battle Abbey Lodge—have offered offbeat kitchens for Mitzel to hone her comfort-food craft, and she’s made a career of offering a little home cooking in these most remote of locations.

In her new cookbook, Rocky Mountain Cooking, she shares the dishes inspired by a life of backcountry bliss, including these twisty cheese buns that make regularly braving bear encounters and -40°C winters worthwhile.

“It might seem a bit intimidating at first, what with all the folding and twisting, but the results are so worth the effort,” says Mitzel. Just like life in the mountains, really.

For Mitzel’s recipe, turn the page.

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FOOD // BITES

BITES Food news to chew on.

GO GO GADGET Heating Up While keeping an even temper is key to surviving the holidays (just take a deep breath every time Uncle Steve tries to bring up global politics), keeping an even temperature for your holiday baking is critical, too. Which is why we’re intrigued

by LG’s new ProBake convection oven ($2,349), which has its main heating element mounted on the back wall for optimal heat distribution. lg.ca

recipe

FROM ROCKY MOUNTAIN COOKING BY KATIE MITZEL

1 cup 2% milk 4 tbsp granulated sugar, divided 2 tbsp active dry yeast 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for kneading 1 tsp kosher salt 8 tbsp salted butter, cold, cubed 3 egg yolks 3 tbsp salted butter, melted 1½ cups grated sharp white cheddar cheese 2 tbsp fresh thyme leaves Ground black pepper 1 egg, beaten + 1 tsp water, for egg wash In a saucepan over medium heat, gently warm the milk, but do not bring to even a simmer. Remove from the heat and add 2 tablespoons of the sugar.

Stir to dissolve the sugar, sprinkle the yeast in, stir very gently, and then let the mixture sit for about 8 to 10 minutes. When the yeast is bubbly and frothy, it is ready.

In a food processor, pulse the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar, flour, and salt to just combine.

Add the butter and pulse to make a coarse mixture.

(If you do not have a food processor, use a pastry cutter or two forks.)

With the machine running, add the egg yolks.

Process until the mixture is smooth and sticky.

Transfer it to a large mixing bowl and add the yeast mixture. Using your hands, bring the dough together until you have a lumpy, shaggy dough with no dry spots of flour (about 2 minutes).

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface, adding extra flour as necessary to keep the dough from sticking. Using both hands, knead the dough. Press the centre of the dough with the heels of your hands, then push them onto the dough and away from you. Using quarter turns, pull the dough back toward you with the heels of your hands, adding only enough extra flour to keep the dough from sticking. Continue this process until you begin to feel air developing in the dough and it is smooth 5 8 n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r 2 0 1 9 / westernliving.ca

and slightly tacky and springs back when poked with your finger. This whole process should take between 8 and 10 minutes.

events

Lightly oil a large mixing bowl, place the dough in it, turning once to ensure the whole ball is covered in oil, and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or up to overnight.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Remove the dough from the fridge and allow it to sit for 10 minutes. Using a rolling pin, roll it out into an 18-by-15-inch rectangle. Lightly dust the dough with flour if the rolling pin is sticking. Work slowly if you are encountering air bubbles.

Brush the dough with the melted butter and sprinkle the cheese overtop. Sprinkle with the thyme and pepper to taste. Fold the dough in half horizontally.

Using your fingers, pinch together the long edges where they meet, ensuring everything is held fast.

Roll the dough out again, this time to about an 18-by10-inch rectangle. You may find some more air bubbles under the surface—work these out slowly so the dough doesn’t rupture.

Using a long, sharp knife or bench scraper, cut the dough into 10-inch-long, ½-inch-wide strips. You should get 16 to 20 strips. Pinch the tops of 2 strips to keep them together. Twist the two pieces around each other until they are closely but not tightly wound. Holding the end down, wrap the twisted dough around itself so it is circular and flat. Pinch the loose end tightly to the underside of the bun and place on a prepared baking sheet.

Brush the buns with the egg wash and bake, side by side, on the middle rack of the oven for 20 to 25 minutes, rotating them 180 degrees halfway through to ensure they brown evenly.

Remove from the baking sheets and let cool on a wire rack. I sometimes put a piece of butter on them as they come out of the oven to melt overtop.

Makes 8 to 10 buns.

Excerpted from Rocky Mountain Cooking by K atie Mitzel. Copyright © 2019 K atie Mitzel. Published by Appetite by Random House,® a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited. Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All rights reserved.

Eat! Vancouver Fogo Island Dinner Vancouver The Vancouver Club November 6 As part of Eat! Vancouver’s dinner series, Fogo Island Inn’s Jonathan Gushue (above left) joins Vancouver Club executive chef Ned Bell (above right) for a collaborative menu that celebrates the bounty of Canada’s disparate coasts. eat-vancouver.com

Dinner and Movie at the Selkirk Grille

Calgary Heritage Park November 12 We’re not sure what’s on the menu yet for the three-course meal inspired

by The Breakfast Club (to be enjoyed before watching the film itself at the Gasoline Alley Museum) but we’d put good money on Claire’s sushi being involved. heritagepark.ca

Jonathan Gushue: Steffen Jagenburg

Val’s Twisty Cheesy Buns

openings Comery Block Barbecue 638 17 Ave., SW, Calgary Who The meat maniacs behind Hayden Block Smoke and Whiskey.

Why we’re excited The two hickory smokers at this West Tennessee-inspired barbecue and bourbon joint are working overtime, smoking meats for 10 to 14 hours every day. Load up on brisket, Nashville hot chicken and pulled pork: it’s like Stampede came early this year. comeryblock.com

Barshoku and Nupo 635 Confluence Way, Calgary Who Foodie of the Year and acclaimed Shokunin chef Darren MacLean.

Why we’re excited The Alt Hotel has already made waves as a foodie destination (hello, Chix Eggshop), and the highly anticipated opening of the upscale Barshoku just enhances the fervour. Expect a celebration of seafood and veggies (no meat here) in the main dining room, and an intimate one-on-one tasting menu experience at the eight-seat Nupo bar that’s attached. chefdarrenmaclean.com

Wind Cries Mary 45 Bastion Square, Victoria Who Former Flying Pig manager Jesse Dame runs the room; Kyla Bidgood designed it.

Why we’re excited We’re just waiting for a rare sunny day to cozy up in the hidden courtyard patio—but the nose-to-tail share plates of hand-cranked sausage, housemade caraway bread and smoked ling cod fritters are just as tasty when passed around inside. windcriesmary.ca

Oh Sweet Day Bake Shop 1706 East 1st Ave., Vancouver Who Fanny Lam, baking blogger turned farmers’ market darling turned online bakery operator turned cookbook author.

Why we’re excited Lam now has a brick-andmortar outlet for her picture-perfect desserts.

Ganache drip cakes make for the ideal birthday treat; shortbread tartlets are a delicious, just-because indulgence. ohsweetday.com

Tratto 256 Westminster Ave. West, Penticton Who These food heroes are teaming up to make the pizza version of the Avengers: Christopher Royal (Nook) and Frank and Dom Morra (Via Tevere).

Why we’re excited With a supergroup like this behind the scenes, you know the Neapolitanstyle pies on offer—made with a gas-fired Marra Forni oven—are going to be a game-changer for the Okanagan.

NEAL M c Lennan’S WINE PICK

A Masterclass in Terroir The term “terroir” gets thrown around a lot these days, but at its heart it should express that magical intersection between soil, climate and topography that, when in harmony, can result in greatness. Problem is, there’s a multitude of other factors that often get in the way of experiencing the terroir— winemaking style being chief among them. Late picking, heavy oak use, numerous additives all cloud the expression of the terroir. Which is why these new bottles from Blue Mountain are a revelation. Each has the same winemaker (the quiet genius of Matt Mavety), same grape (their sweet spot of pinot noir), same process.

All you’re left with is terroir—how the soil of one plot or the orientation of another produces wine that can vary in mind-bendingly different ways. You should get a diploma if you buy a case. Pinot Noir Estate Cuvee 2017, $34.90

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Morning Glory 6 0   n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r 2 0 1 9 / westernliving.ca

g

Most bite-sized menus are designed to pair with wine and cocktails, but morning festivities are equally suited to this kind of grazing—friends and family can hold a coffee (or mimosa) in one hand, and nosh on mini cinnamon buns, frittata, even tiny eggs benny with the other. Cheers to good company and good mornings. recipes by Julie Van Rosendaal photography and food styling by Tracey Kusiewicz prop styling by nicole sjÜstedt

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FOOD // MORNING GLORY Citrus Segments with Prosecco-Lime-Ginger “Dressing.” See recipe on page 64.

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GET THE LOOK Aesop dinner plates (set of 4, $60) and Kipling cereal bowl (set of 4, $60), fablehome.co; brass serving set ($85) and Ecru throw ($250), nineteenten.ca; Royal crystal champagne glasses (set of 6, $25) and marble and gold coasters (set of 4, square, $13), homesense.ca; gold metal bowl ($20) and grey leather placemat ($18), simons.ca

FOOD // MORNING GLORY GET THE LOOK Cosette crystal taper candleholders (set of 3, $139) and 20-piece Rush brushed gold flatware set ($139), cb2.ca

Eggnog CinnamonCardamom Buns MAKES 2 DOZEN MINI BUNS. (SEE PHOTO ON PAGE 65)

Tiny cinnamon buns have all the appeal of the full-sized version, with less commitment—and are easy to eat in just a few bites.

If you want to prep them ahead of time, refrigerate the dough overnight to slow the rise, then roll, shape and bake in the morning.

Dough ½ cup warm water 2 tsp active dry yeast 3 tbsp sugar 2½ cups all-purpose flour ¼ cup butter, softened 1 large egg ½ tsp ground cardamom ½ tsp salt

Brown Sugar Sauce

Roll dough out (you shouldn’t need to flour the countertop—it will cling a bit better without) into a 10-by-14-inch rectangle. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle with brown sugar, smoothing it over the surface. Sprinkle with cinnamon.

Starting on a long side, roll dough up into a log, then gently roll and pull to lengthen it to about 20 inches. Using a sharp serrated knife or dental floss, cut log crosswise in half, and then quarters, and each quarter into three—this is easier than eyeballing even pieces.

Place rolls cut-side-up in the muffin tins, and let sit while you preheat oven to 350˚F. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until deep golden. Invert onto a platter immediately, while sauce is still soft. To make the glaze, whisk together the icing sugar and eggnog, and drizzle over buns with a fork.

Serve warm.

½ cup packed brown sugar ¼ cup butter ¼ cup corn or maple syrup ¼ cup water

Citrus Segments with Prosecco-Lime-Ginger “Dressing”

Filling

SERVES 8. (SEE PHOTO ON PAGE 62)

2 tbsp butter, melted ⅓ cup packed brown sugar 1 tsp cinnamon 24 pecan halves (optional)

A splash of bubbly from your bar will liven up fresh citrus; it will also keep apples from oxidizing, if you want to toss chunks or slices into the mix.

Glaze

Put warm water in a large bowl (or the bowl of your stand mixer) and sprinkle with yeast and a pinch of sugar. Let stand for 5 minutes, or until foamy.

2 grapefruits 2 oranges 1 blood orange 1 tbsp honey, warmed Juice of 1 lime 1 slice fresh ginger ¼ cup prosecco or other white wine, or apple cider Pomegranate arils and fresh mint, for garnish

Add rest of sugar along with flour, butter, egg, cardamom and salt, and stir by hand or with the dough hook attachment of your stand mixer until you have a soft dough. Knead for about 8 minutes, or until smooth and elastic, but still tacky. Place dough back in bowl, cover with a towel and let rise for an hour or two.

Using a sharp knife, cut both ends off each citrus fruit, and peel with the knife, cutting away any white pith as well. Holding each fruit over a bowl to catch the juices, cut each section out by slicing on either side of the membranes to separate each from the last. Arrange segments in a shallow bowl or platter.

Meanwhile, combine brown sugar, butter, syrup and water in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirring until well-blended and smooth.

Divide between 24 mini muffin tins that have been buttered or sprayed with nonstick spray. If you like, put a pecan half in the bottom of each.

Add honey and lime juice to the bowl with the reserved citrus juices, along with the ginger.

Pour in prosecco and lightly stir to combine, then pour over the fruit segments. Remove and discard the ginger. Garnish with pomegranate arils and fresh mint.

1 cup icing sugar 2 tbsp eggnog

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Maple-Rosemary Pork Satay SERVES 8. (SEE PHOTO ON PAGE 66)

While bacon and sausage are more typical brunch fare, pork tenderloin with maple and rosemary cooks quickly, without splattering, and is perfect for nibbling when served on a stick.

2 pork tenderloins About 20 wooden skewers

Marinade ⅓ cup pure maple syrup, plus extra for brushing 2 tbsp lemon juice 2 tbsp grainy Dijon mustard 2 tbsp canola or olive oil 2 sprigs fresh rosemary, finely chopped (discard stems) ½ tsp salt Fresh or frozen (thawed) whole cranberries Fresh rosemary, for garnish Cut pork tenderloins in half widthwise, then into ½-inch strips lengthwise. Put into a sealable baggie along with the marinade ingredients; knead bag a bit to combine everything, then stash in fridge for at least an hour, or overnight. Soak some bamboo skewers for at least 10 minutes.

When ready to cook, preheat broiler. Thread pork onto the skewers, skewering a cranberry after each turn so that meat is winding back and forth around the berries in an S shape. Place on a parchment-lined sheet and broil for 7 to 10 minutes, or until just cooked through. Brush with maple syrup while still warm. If you like, serve on a bed of rosemary springs, just to look nice and add aroma. Makes about 1½ dozen satay.

Tk Tk, see recipe on page tk Eggnog Cinnamon-Cardamom Buns. See recipe on page 64.

Mini Eggs Benny on Parmesan-Pepper Biscuits.

See recipe on page 67.

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FOOD // MORNING GLORY

Blistered Pepper, Chard and Feta Frittata.

See recipe on page 67.

Maple-Rosemary Pork Satay.

See recipe on page 64.

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GET THE LOOK Marble and gold coasters (set of 4, circle, $13), homesense.ca; Arabesque barware glass ($13), cb2.ca, brass salt spoon ($28) and brass deluxe salt spoon ($34), linen medium cannister ($70), Five-inch Sharing Bowl by Barter ($18), nineteenten.ca

Mini Eggs Benny on Parmesan-Pepper Biscuits SERVES 8. (SEE PHOTO ON PAGE 65)

Chilling your hollandaise gives it the texture of soft butter, perfect for spreading on split biscuits, to top with a poached quail egg. If you like, add a bit of sliced deli ham or smoked salmon under the egg as well.

8 quail eggs

A Toast for Breakfast There’s nothing wrong with a mimosa (try adding a splash of cranberry or pomegranate juice, too), but here are a few more morning cocktail ideas to consider.

Hollandaise 3 large egg yolks 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 tsp Dijon mustard Pinch salt ½ cup butter

Blistered Pepper, Chard and Feta Frittata SERVES 8. (SEE PHOTO ON PAGE 66)

Frittata is perfect for brunching—it’s a great way to use up all kinds of cooked veggies and cheese, and the peppers and chard are particularly festive. (Shishitos are very mild, but about one in 20 is a hot surprise.) Serve the frittata in bite-sized squares, cold or at room temperature.

Canola oil, for cooking Handful of fresh shishito (twist) peppers (optional) 3 to 4 chard leaves, chopped (with stems) Salt and pepper, to taste 5 large eggs ¼ cup half-and-half or heavy cream 1 roasted red pepper, chopped ⅓ cup crumbled feta or goat cheese Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat a drizzle of oil in a 9-inch ovenproof skillet set over high heat. If using shishitos, cook until blistered on all sides, set aside to cool slightly, then roughly chop, discarding stems. (Scrape out most of the seeds, too, if you like.) Add another drizzle of oil to pan and cook the chard, seasoning with salt, until wilted.

In a bowl, whisk together eggs, cream, salt and pepper. Stir in roasted red peppers, shishitos and cheese. Pour over chard in the skillet and cook for 5 minutes, until it starts to set around the edges. Transfer to oven and bake for 15 minutes, or until slightly puffed and set. Cool and serve small squares at room temperature or cold.

GREYHOUND Pink grapefruit juice plus vodka or gin

Biscuits 1½ cups all-purpose flour 1 tsp baking powder ¼ tsp each salt and freshly ground black pepper ⅓ cup butter, cold ½ cup milk or cream ⅓ cup grated parmesan or asiago Make the hollandaise: put egg yolks, lemon juice, mustard and salt into a blender; cover and pulse until blended. Melt butter on stovetop or in microwave, then, with blender running, slowly pour warm butter through the hole in the top. Blend until mixture thickens to a creamy consistency.

(Alternatively, do all this in a measuring cup with a hand-held immersion blender.) Refrigerate until firm to the consistency of soft butter.

Make the biscuits: Preheat oven to 400˚F. In a medium bowl, stir together flour, baking powder, salt and pepper. Grate in butter using the coarse side of a box grater, add cheese and toss to combine. Add milk and stir just until dough comes together.

Gather it up, pat into a 6- to 7-inch square on a parchment-lined sheet and cut in quarters lengthwise and crosswise, making 16 small square biscuits. If you like, brush the tops with a little milk.

Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, or until golden.

Meanwhile, bring a pot of water to a boil, and have a bowl of ice water ready. Gently lower quail eggs into the boiling water and cook for 3 minutes; remove with a slotted spoon, transferring directly to the ice water bath. Once cool enough to handle, peel and cut each in half lengthwise.

Split each biscuit and spread bottoms with chilled hollandaise; top with half a quail egg and set biscuit lid leaning off to one side.

GIN AND JUICE Exactly like it sounds— any gin, any juice

ICED COFFEE G&T Pour gin and tonic over ice, top with a shot or two of espresso; for something morning cocktail-like without the booze, omit the gin

+

EASY BELLINI Use a melon baller to spoon balls of raspberry, cranberry or other fruit sorbet into tall glasses; top with prosecco or sparkling wine

+ westernliving.ca / n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r

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15TH ANNUAL

TRAVEL // THE CHECK-IN

BY S TAC E Y M c L AC H L A N

LEGENDS OF THE MALL

Glamour, culture and pintxos galore at New York’s Hudson Yards.

We’re going to tell you what the New York tourism board refuses to admit: yes, Hudson Yards is a mall (they prefer the phrase “cultural centre,” but the Banana Republic says otherwise). But oh, if all malls were like this, the word would lose its suburban, cookie-cutter connotations. If only every mall featured interactive public artworks alongside its luxury shopping experiences, buzzy wine bars alongside celebrity-chef-endorsed food stalls, and experimental self-serve beverage boutiques alongside the air-conditioning and escalators.

At the end of the High Line, you’ll find this mall/ cultural centre/micro-neighbourhood cantilevered atop the Hudson railyards. Not everyone’s a fan—New York magazine called the $25-billion development “a billionaire’s fantasy city”—but it’s a fascinating example of urban planning (and, yeah, shopping) that’s worth exploring.

Mercado Little Spain: Liz Clayman; Peach Mart: Andrew Bezek; Kāwi: Molly Matalon

To Mercado, to Mercado Curated with the help of former El Bulli chefs Albert and Ferran Adrià, 1 Mercado Little Spain is a loving homage to chef José Andrés’ home country, and a delicious one at that. The market puts cheesemongers, paella stations and sherry-forward wine bars into one lively shared space. Pull up a stool wherever you find room and forget for a minute you’re in New York.

2 Play Date A visit to the interactive 2 Snark Park exhibit from New York creative firm Snarkitecture might feature a room full of surrealist monochromatic tubes—one covered in fur; the next lined with golf balls or disco-ball mirrors—and no clear directions, but no promises: the immersive installations here are never the same twice. Find the experimentalism overwhelming? Grab a Kith Treats ice cream from the cereal bar and even out that blood sugar.

3

The High-Low 3 Peach Mart is David Chang’s love letter to Asian convenience stores, featuring an edited selection of Japanese chips and fresh kimbap rolls; right next door, he embraces a more elevated culinary scene with 4 Kāwi, a Korean fine-dining experience.

(Though it’s not entirely devoid of the Momofuku chain’s humour: “Yesterday’s Stinky Soybean Stew” makes an appearance on the menu… for $47.)

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TRAVEL // THE CHECK-IN

6

5

Face Off

7 Social Climber Is it an interactive sculpture, or a hyper-stylized way to tackle Leg Day? Either way, the Thomas Heatherwick-designed 6 Vessel is a sight to be seen, either from below or at the very tip-top of the structure. (If you can find your way there through the Escher-like maze of steps, that is.)

Flying High

House Party It’s already hosted multidisciplinary crossovers like Bjork’s Cornucopia, but 7 The Shed also provides space for upand-comers alongside its marquee events. (Open Call, a recent exhibit, spotlighted new contemporary artists from around the globe.) With eight storeys of gallery spaces and theatres, plus an extendable external shell that can glide on rails to cover the plaza and expand the building’s capacity, there’s plenty of room for big stars and small names alike.

8

Travelling east is such a time suck, but if you splurge on a business class red-eye flight on 8 Cathay Pacific—where the pillows and duvets are nice enough to want to steal and the seats recline until fully flat in your private pod seat—you’ll wake up at JFK refreshed and ready to roll, not a moment lost.

Plinth/Brick House: Timothy Schenck; Vessel; Michael Moran for Related-Oxford; the Shed: Iwan Baan

Okay, so 5 the Plinth isn’t technically part of Hudson Yards, but if you’re here anyway, you may as well hop up to the High Line. In June, an extension to the beloved linear park opened, specifically dedicated to showcasing large-scale, contemporary, commissioned public sculpture. The Plinth’s inaugural feature work is the monumental Brick House by Simone Leigh: a 16-foot-high bust of an eyeless black woman, emerging from a clay house and facing down the city.

7 2 n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r 2 0 1 9 / westernliving.ca

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2019-10-29 11:02 AM

Untitled-5 1

2019-10-30 3:58 PM

West Side Story What if we told you that on Hawaii’s most populous island there existed a glorious slice of paradise unencumbered by the tourist hordes?

by Neal M c Lennan

Dmitrii Sakharov

Sand Solo

This isn’t Photoshop trickery: West Oahu’s Makua Beach really is this empty most of the time. Incredible.

westernliving.ca / n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r

2 0 1 9 7 5

TRAVEL // WEST OAHU Think Pink

The Puu O Hulu hike finishes with a vibrant pink pillbox leftover from the Second World War that offers a perfect vantage of the West Side.

“

Are you sure you really want a pick-up?” asks the guy at the car rental counter at the Honolulu Airport. Normally this is when they try to slide you into the convertible Mustang for just $23 more a day, but there’s a panic note in his voice, betraying that the pickup truck I reserved is nowhere to be found. He keeps showing us nonpick-up alternatives (Impala, pass; minivan, hard pass) until finally I relent; I’m tired, it’s getting dark, so I agree to a fully kitted-out Jeep Grand Cherokee. But what would normally be a rare consumer-versusrental company victory doesn’t feel like it. If our destination had been the tony Halekulani maybe the SUV would work, but we’re headed in the exact opposite direction: West Oahu, perhaps the last vestige of underdeveloped beachfront on the island (heck, on any of the major islands) and long the rumoured stomping grounds of locals enjoying at least one slice of beach paradise that’s not overrun with tourists.

Ironically, our base camp for this western expedition is the new Four Seasons Ko Olina. The luxe chain has dominated the top end of the hospitality web on the other islands (Hawaii, Maui, Lanai) for decades, so when they finally moved onto Oahu it was huge news. But even bigger news was that they skipped the expected Waikiki address in favour of the more rugged, less crowded beachhead at the bottom of the west coast. In fact, the trip west from the airport is an exercise in gradual downsizing: leaving the airport on the H-1, we find ourselves in the middle of 12 lanes of traffic, but with each passing mile the road narrows, and the cars dwindle such that when I finally take the exit off the H-1 onto the old Farrington Highway we’re on a sauntering

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single-lane road, transitioning into a zen state befitting a place that trades on chill. I pull the fancy SUV into its natural habitat—the Four Seasons bell desk—and amble up to my room to sleep.

I wake the next morning eager to head out and explore, but the hotel seems to have other plans. Greeting me as I look out is the perfectly massive lagoon that dominates the Ko Olina development. It’s a saltwater wonder that has the best of the ocean without pesky things like rip tides and bull sharks, so I indulge in a rare open-water swim before breakfast. And yes, I know a lagoon is by definition the opposite of open water, but it sounds way cooler, so for me they’re now synonyms.

After a quick shower and a bite I’m sitting in front of the concierge asking for advice. In truth, I expect a full court press of dissuasion against adventuring north. Google “West + Oahu” and the first few hits are Trip Advisor posts warning of rampant rental car break-ins and angry locals; also, most people who spend their money on swank Four Seasons digs want to luxuriate in said digs. But instead, she claps her hands together with glee at the possibilities. We go up and down a map of the west side, with her pointing out numerous “amazing” spots, each time adding, “And you’ll have it all to yourself.” We finally decide on the Pink Pillbox hike, because it’s only a short drive from the resort and it promises an 180-degree view of the entire coast.

One of the defining characteristics of West Oahu is that there’s only one road—the aforementioned Farrington Highway, both in and out. Historically, this keeps day-trippers and circle-routers out, as it doesn’t link up with anything else—you drive up, then you turn around

TRAVEL // WEST OAHU

Point Taken

and drive back. Not far beyond the Four Seasons’ manicured gates, West Oahu immediately starts showing its keeping-it-real differences; the road hugs the coast all the way up, but there’s clearly some tent camps on one side and, on the other, a huge power plant that supplies much of the island with electricity. It’s scene that would never be tolerated in Waikiki’s idealized version of paradise.

Our directions to the hike—known as Puu O Hulu to the locals—are fantastically quaint. Drive to Kaukama Road, hang a right and park at the 12th street light. Find path. When we arrive, there are two other cars at the trailhead, but as we head up the first of the switchbacks we seem to have this part of the mountain to ourselves. We’re on the leeward side of Oahu, which means everything is parchingly dry; throw in 7 8 n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r 2 0 1 9 / westernliving.ca

highs in the mid-90s, and by the time you reach the top of the two-mile adventure you’re feeling it. Well, I’m feeling it—the two twentysomething Japanese girls who are literally skipping along the ridgeline in their Vans seem to be handling both the hike and the height just fine.

At the top is the eponymous Pillbox, a Second World War relic, built after the flight path above was used to bomb Pearl Harbor. Now it hangs eerily cantilevered over a 1,000-foot drop, its machine gun slots acting as a vertical frame for an expanse of coast and Pacific that would make artist James Turrell proud. Before heading down, we turn 90 degrees to the left to find (eyes don’t fail me now) a slab of blue (ocean) meeting a solo white swath (beach) abutting a huge green slab (valley).

I point toward it: tomorrow.

Ka’ena Point: iStock

Ka’ena Point is on the northwestern tip of Oahu and to get there you need to walk for a few miles along an abandoned railway right of way.

But it’s worth it.

Four Seasons Resort Oahu at Ko Olina

Where to Stay There are a few condos up near Makaha, but you’d have to be intrepid to go that route.

Take solace that, thanks to the stiff competition from Waikiki, Ko Olina is the generally the lowest-priced Four Seasons in Hawaii. And if you love openwater swimming...

Musubi at L&L Barbecue

Four Seasons: Christian Horan; Monkeypod: Steve Czerniak

Monkeypod Kitchen

The following morning, after another “open water” swim, we again head north, but this time all the way to the end—Ka’ena Point. Once upon a time the road went all the way here, but decades ago it was abandoned as the area became a sanctuary for the endangered Laysan albatross. The drive up is a series of neck-snapping “wows.” There’s Ma’ili Beach, then Makaha and finally Makua, each one progressively nicer and less crowded as we go north. (And by “less crowded” I mean there might be 15 people at Ma’ili, 12 at Makaha and four at Makua—including the two of us.) While wonderfully unexpected, the lack of people is a bit disconcerting. As the crow flies, we’re only 30 miles from Waikiki, which no doubt is chock-a-block with tourists. What gives? Well, for starters, the first two beaches have a not-insignificant population of houseless

Mina’s Fish House Beef Tartare at Senia

Where to Eat Again, not the most varied. There’s an outpost of local chain L&L Barbecue, but truthfully it seems solidly localsonly. There are numerous roadside stands along the Farrington Highway selling smoked marlin, kalbi ribs and the like—these are basic but give a local flavour of the area. Michael Mina’s Fish House at the Four Seasons is, all things considered, reasonably priced, as is the nearby Monkeypod Kitchen. If you’re up for a drive then Senia, in Honolulu’s equally edgy Chinatown, is the current cream of the fine-dining crop. westernliving.ca / n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r

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TRAVEL // WEST OAHU

Lush Life

It’s not just surf and sand in the West Oahu. The verdant Makaha Valley also defines the undervisted area.

The calm lagoon in front of the Four Seasons Ko Olina (top) and a more rugged view from the Pacific (bottom) via outrigger canoe.

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#W

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W fo to of at de fo fo

Makaha Valley: Urilux; Four Seasons: Christian Horan

Base Camp

people (the preferred term in these parts) living in tents. It’s not threatening, but I can see how it might hit the wrong note for someone who’s flown here to get away from it all. The surf can also be quite gnarly; on our visit in early fall it’s pretty calm, but come winter, West Oahu easily rivals the more famous North Shore for monster waves. (It was actually at Makaha in 1969 that Greg Noll popularized Big Wave surfing.) But, on the other hand—miles of empty beach.

At the end of the highway we pull the Jeep over and start hoofing it north. Unlike the Pillbox hike, this is fairly flat—it actually follows the disintegrating right of way for a railway constructed in 1899 by the Oahu Land and Rail Company to haul sugarcane. And, like the day before, we have the trail to ourselves (on a two-and-a-half hour journey, we see a grand total of six other people). With each few hundred metres the craggy coast morphs just a bit; there are small sandy beaches, then tide pools, then waves crashing into cliffs. It’s as dramatic as any stretch on any of the islands, but there’s no one here. When we reach the point, we spread out a small picnic and eat some malasadas picked up en route. It’s magic.

About a quarter-kilometre before the parking lot I feel a pang of fear about the car. I had refused the rental company’s insurance and am relying on my Visa for coverage, but my mind drifts back to the stories of break-ins, and the parking lot likewise is peppered with signs warning about theft—the last thing I need is a smashed window marring an otherwise perfect day. But at the lot, we’re greeted only by a solitary family of locals setting up a tent for a day at the beach. They throw us a friendly wave as we pass by.

The drive back is long—even going against traffic on the Farrington is not fun, but it gives me a chance to look inland at the wonder that is the Makaha Valley, a huge, luscious scoop of green that defines this part of the island. A Canadian company—Pacific Links—has taken over the abandoned Makaha Valley Resort and has hired Tiger Woods to redesign the golf courses. If it happens, it will radically change this part of the island, but most locals seem unfussed. “We’ve heard this story before—four years ago it was Greg Norman who was going to save us,” says a chap at the gas station who’s firmly in the “I’ll believe it when I see it” camp. But there’s no doubt that the solitude of West Oahu is endangered as a generation of travellers hell-bent on unique experiences discover this rarely visited stretch of wonder.

Back at the Four Seasons, we grab a beer and stroll the grounds. A resort, even a Four Seasons, has a tough time competing with empty beaches, but as we round the corner from the adult pool we see a nowfamiliar site: past a wire gate marking the property line is a smallish slice of solitary white sand. It takes some ginger flip-flop walking, but in two minutes we’re on a secret beach, cleverly named Secret Beach, that lies in the shadow of the hotel. The land is still owned by the Campbell family (one of the historically famous landowners on Oahu) and right now it’s all ours. It somehow feels fitting. In fact, the view, due west, to Kauai—then across open sea to Japan—now feels like something that should be enjoyed like this: absolutely to yourself. For now, at least.

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1. This year’s DOTY winners 2. The September issue of Western Living 3. The crowd takes in the award ceremony 4. Editorial director Anicka Quin displays this years award, created by 2018 Furniture Designer of the Year winner Willow and Stump 5. Fashion finalist Robin Peterson (left) of Seymour and Smith with guest 6. Javier Campos (right) accepts his award for Architect of the Year from our Presenting Partner, Monogram 7. From left to right: Kelly Reynolds and Chad Falkenberg of Falken Reynolds pose with executive editor Stacey McLachlan and FR’s Marina Haune 8. Studio North celebrates its Arthur Erickson Memorial Award

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2019-09-26 2:49 PM

TRADE SECRETS

D E S I G N E D BY

Kristina Eustace and Diana Tidswell, Kresswell Interiors, Edmonton

The Look

DARK AND DREAMY Pair black with more black for a kitchen that’s both moody and modern.

8 2 n o v e m b e r / d e c e m b e r 2 0 1 9 / westernliving.ca

D F

W t fo N

Tracey Jazmin

The standard move with limited square footage is to go for the white-and-bright look—light colours open a space up, after all. But designers Kristina Eustace and Diana Tidswell of Kresswell Interiors weren’t content to play it safe with this Edmonton condo kitchen. “Black on black was a risky move, but we wanted to make a big impact in a small space,” says Eustace.

To keep the kitchen feeling dynamic with its monochromatic palette, the duo played with texture and accents designed to pop: charcoal subway tiles from River City Tiles were laid in a dramatic herringbone pattern; a floating walnut shelf breaks up the dark wall; a modern brass Delta Trinsic faucet shines like a jewel. “The details draw your eye around,” Eustace says.

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