WESTERN LIVING // OCTOBER 2018
THE FURNITURE ISSUE // WESTERNLIVING.CA
Fresh This Fall
$5.99
OCTOBER 2018 PM 40065475
One Architect’s Vision for Redesigning a Home, 40 Years Later
From Super-Chunk to All Natural: Furniture Trends for 2019
PLUS Discovering the Friendly and Oh-So-Chill Side of La Jolla
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Views for Days Every space in this Rol Fieldwalker–designed home optimizes the views and welcomes nature in. See more on page 42.
Cover: Clinton Hussey; this page: Tracey Ayton
O C TO B E R 2 018 B .C . & A L B E R TA // V O LU M E 4 7 // N U M B E R 8
FR ESH FOR FALL 32 // Virtuous Reality
Furniture designs for 2019 take our fractured social, economic, environmental and technological landscape into bold new directions, all in the search for meaning.
42 // Full Circle
Architect Rol Fieldwalker revisits the site of his groundbreaking 1975 Spiral House and begins anew, returning a long-neglected home into something beautiful again.
54 // A Million Little Moments
A pokey pink house was demolished to make room for a minimal, modern box where every inch has been carefully considered for maximum impact. westernliving.ca / o c t o b e r
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WL // contents
design 21 // Ones to Watch
The design minds behind ChopValue turn chopsticks into something new.
22 // Shopping
Striking room divider screens, drawer pulls inspired by nature and more goods we’ve got on our wish lists right now.
26 // Openings
Denim duds and down jackets, coming to a city near you.
28 // Great Spaces
A Calgary sugaring salon gets a glam look from designer Alykhan Velji.
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food 65 // Bites
A sneak peek at your new favourite cookbook and the restaurant opening you can’t miss.
68 // One Pan for All
The humble sheet pan is all you need to create a fast and easy one-dish dinner, complete with mains and anything-but-boring sides.
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travel 76 // La Jolla Back, Girl
Impossibly quaint seaside charm does exist in the hustle and bustle of SoCal.
plus 82 // Trade Secrets
A little bit of colour and some great drapery can create a great intimate moment.
Beef satay: Tracey Kusiewicz; Sucré: Colin Way; ChopValue: Kyoko Fierro; La Jolla: Otto Kruse
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HabitatO
Rasomuro 55S
kitchens
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bathrooms
sofas
closets
furniture
doors
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WESTERN LIVING editorial publisher Samantha Legge, MBA editorial director Anicka Quin executive editor Stacey McLachlan art director Jenny Reed travel editor Neal McLennan food editor Julia Dilworth contributing editors Amanda Ross, Nicole Sjöstedt, Barb Sligl, Jim Sutherland, Julie Van Rosendaal city editors Karen Ashbee (Calgary), Jyllian Park (Edmonton), Rosemary Poole (Victoria) editorial interns David Kitai, Sam Nar, Laryssa Vachon email mail@westernliving.ca
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WL // editor’s note
Q& A
AS SEEN IN WESTERN LIVING
What’s your favourite Halloween candy to steal from your kids, and why?
Curtis Gillespie, “La Jolla Back, Girl” page 76 I was raised Catholic, which meant I was taught to sin first and ask for forgiveness later. And so I am, now years after the fact, confessing to my children. They must know the truth. They brought home many more Oh Henrys than they thought they did. I hope they can forgive me.
Nicole Sjöstedt, “Virtuous Reality,” page 32 I’m a classic candy corn kind of gal, but my kids know if they show me a Kit Kat, consider it a goner! It’s a wafer bar so technically it’s not as bad as the others, right? I keep telling myself that.
Behind the Scenes Liz Bell (in white) and her team at Lizbell Agency keep working on while we take over their office space for our furniture shoot this month. You’ll spot stylist Nicole Sjöstedt just outside the glass walls, while photographer Clinton Hussey sets up the next shot.
VISIT
anick a quin, editorial director anick a.quin@westernliving.ca 1 8 o c t o b e r 2 0 1 8 / westernliving.ca
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Anicka Quin portrait: Evaan Kheraj; styling by Luisa Rino, makeup by Melanie Neufeld; outfit courtesy Holt Renfrew, holtrenfrew.com
Follow Anicka on Instagram @aniqua
Western Living has been around since 1971, but we’re a phoenix from the ashes of Western Homes and Living magazine, which started in the mid-’50s. And we still have just about every issue of both publications in an archive room here at the office. (Every once in a while, we become the grateful receivers of a collection that someone’s loved one carefully saved over the years, which helps replenish those copies that have yellowed over time.) These back issues are a fascinating dive through Western Canada’s design history. Whenever a junior member of the team is tasked with finding a certain article at the request of one of our readers, we inevitably lose them in the archive room for the day, with the odd pop-up to show us some delight they’ve discovered—a fantastic sunken living room, an original Erickson home, or a bedroom that carried the carpet on up to the ceiling. (Not all discoveries are good discoveries.) There was one summer student who really got into our vintage issues and started publishing photos of them on westernliving.ca. As it turns out, one home she fell in love with has come back in the pages of this issue with a very 21st-century update. The Spiral House was first published in 1976, and when its current owners found the property, it had fallen into a state of disrepair. But they so appreciated its design that they reached out to the original architect, Rol Fieldwalker, to see what he could do with it. And the rest is Western Living history: you’ll see the beauty he created on page 42 (and its original iteration at westernliving.ca). I love hearing from readers who have discovered that their own home once appeared in Western Living, and getting the chance to see modern-day photos of alumni homes from our magazine. If you’re one of those who’ve been lucky enough to capture a little piece of the West’s design history, drop me a line.
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S H O P P I N G // T R E N D S // P E O P L E // S PA C E S // O P E N I N G S // I N T E L
ones to watch
Creative Diversion
Material Gains Santiago Martinez (left) and Felix Böck of ChopValue found design gold in discarded chopsticks.
Santiago Martinez and Felix Böck, ChopValue, Vancouver
Kyoko Fierro
ChopValue is the story of waste meeting ingenuity. In 2016, Felix Böck, a PhD candidate in the faculty of forestry at UBC, noticed bamboo chopsticks from takeout orders accumulating in his girlfriend’s kitchen drawer and, using lab facilities at the university, he cleaned, coated and heat-pressed them into hard-wearing coasters, tiles and shelves. Next came a city-wide chopstick recycling program at restaurants, shopping centres and the airport to gather more unwanted and discarded chopsticks (and help businesses cut down on waste-disposal fees), and later, with project manager Santiago Martinez, an architect and designer by training, a division of modernist furniture and interior design services for commercial spaces. By the end of this year, ChopValue will expand to Victoria, L.A. and Montreal. Credit goes to single-use utensils with seemingly endless possibilities. “One of the big learning curves, in terms of the company, has been understanding the full stretch of the material,” says Böck. “It performs so well in so many applications.”—Rosemary Poole
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WLDESIGN // shopping
by Rosemary Poole
Anicka’s Pick Divide and Conquer
Paipaï by Ligne Roset
The latest iteration of the Prairie divider screen ($3,800) by Henry Norris of Vancouver’s New Format Studio sees black lacquered aluminum and plastic composite panels textured with luminous resin flakes—an artful solution for partitioning open spaces or blocking natural light. newformatstudio.com
Loveseat (top), $4,275; sofa, $5,805, available at Livingspace, livingspace.ca
For more of Anicka’s picks, visit westernliving.ca
That’s a Wrap
Crisp shades of teal and copper update the classic plaid of the Ashton throw from Pendleton ($162), while 100-percent-wool construction will help keep the backyard party going late into the season. nordstrom.ca
Still Life
Noted for merging ancient materials with modern design, Anna Rabinowicz partnered with RabLabs to release this stunning Tondo bowl ($721), featuring Tuscan alabaster formed to allow the passage of light. atkinsonsofvancouver.com
NOTEWORTHY New in stores across the West.
Start Them Young
Design for Children (Phaidon, $80) catalogues 450 of the most enduring designs created exclusively for children. Expect recognizable favourites (wooden dolls by Alexander Girard, Kay Bojesen’s monkeys) alongside new work by the likes of Kengo Kuma and Peter Jakubik. chapters.indigo.ca
The Shape of Things
New from Rocky Mountain Hardware, the Ore collection (pricing on request) plays with facets, creating different profiles depending on the vantage point. vshl.ca; cantubathrooms.com
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Prairie divider screen: Sean Davidson
I love a sofa with a good story. The Paipaï, designed by LucidiPevere for Ligne Roset, takes its inspiration both from folded origami—you can see the literal folds in the foam of the sofa, allowing for a highly contoured and comfy seat—and from a pai-pai fan, which has a similarly round shape. Both the loveseat and the sofa were made for lounging on cool fall days with the perfect paperback (next up for me: I’m overdue to dive into David Sedaris’s latest, Calypso).
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WLDESIGN // shopping
Fit to Print
Made by hand in limited editions, Upton canvas prints (Henge, as shown, 36 by 48 inches, $230) shake up white walls with fresh, unexpected colour combinations. oldfaithfulshop.com
Throwing Shade
The hand-turned Italian marble base and pressed-steel shade of Normann Copenhagen’s Eddy table lamp ($1,335) meet on a brass ball, creating the function of a multidirectional desk light with the look of a traditional table lamp. Available in black, white and grey (as shown). themodernshop.com; guildhallhome.com
Well Turned Out
Merging age-old carved motifs with modern utility (adjustable shelves, multiple cut-outs for cords in the back), the new Pictograph collection includes a night table, dresser, buffet and media console, each made from mango wood in a light flax finish or carbon (as shown, $2,239). westelm.ca
Slip Shift
New work from ceramicist Cathy Terepocki, a past WL Maker of the Year, sees geometric shapes from cut paper on a quiet, decidedly neutral palette (vases $78 each). cathyterepocki.com
The Big Melt
Though officially named Drops ($4,399) for its resemblance to candy drops, we say this leather sofa is all Caramilk bar. cb2.com
2 4   o c t o b e r 2 0 1 8 / westernliving.ca
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WLDESIGN // shopping
OPENINGS Hot new rooms we love.
B y s a m n ar
CALGARY Dutil Denim Packing iconic brands like Grlfrnd, Pure Blue Japan and Canada’s own Naked and Famous, Canadian boutique Dutil Denim is bringing Vancouver’s reigning denim palace to the Prairies with the launch of its third Canadian store in the heart of Inglewood. The all-things-denim destination houses more than 20 big-deal brands— and, should any ill befall your Canadian Tuxedo, you can rest easy, cowpoke: Dutil has repair services on hand. 1216b 9 Ave. SE, dutildenim.com
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EDMONTON Hideout Distro This oddball retro general store finds an airy and bright new home this November to showcase its beloved collective of local quirk and makers. Gems like the “Still in Edmonton” totes from Still in Town and handmade ceramic vessels from Stranger Design are everywhere, but you’ll also find a range of art prints, clothing, jewellery, cassettes, vinyl LPs and vintage treasures sourced in Edmonton and beyond. 12407 108 Ave. NW, hideoutdistro.com
Hideout Distro: Jessica Fern Facette
vancouver Canada Goose Pacific Centre just got that much cooler (or is it warmer?) with the addition of Canada’s iconic winter jacket brand, Canada Goose. The 4,000-square-foot flagship, located just across from Harry Rosen, carries the most extensive collection of CG in Vancouver—everything from lightweight down jackets to rainwear and merino wool knitwear. We particularly love the local shout-out to North Vancouver with the reversible North Shore bomber jacket. The modern, Arctic-inspired environment is complete with Jason Carter’s signature stone polar bear sculptures. Pacific Centre, 700 W Georgia St., canadagoose.com
WLDESIGN // great spaces
B y S ta c e y M c L a c h l a n
Pretty in Lilac
Designer Alykhan Velji gives Calgary’s Sucré aesthetics bar a makeover of its own. When Sucré Body Sugaring Boutique took over a former photography studio for its second location in Calgary’s McKenzie Towne, it was clear that a lot was going to have to change: the black ceiling, for one, didn’t really set the right tone for clean and clinical aesthetic treatments. But when the owner approached designer Alykhan Velji about a renovation, she was looking for more than just a scrub-down: she wanted to create a space that was glamorous and luxurious, too. “The client felt the space needed to feel feminine but still have a modern look,” says Velji. Having a slightly residential vibe was key as well, for a business tasked with performing some intimate procedures. “We wanted the space not to feel like a commercial space, but something inviting
and glamorous,” Velji says. “We have really thought of every detail to ensure that this space doesn’t feel like a commercial aesthetics bar.” Velji and his team started from a colour palette of pinks, lilacs and peaches for the 820-square-foot space and built from there. Herringbone flooring and white moulding bring in a layer of more traditional elegance— though the space isn’t without its modern touches. “The black-and-white composite surface material used for the customdesigned desk helps ground the space and add that modern edge,” Velji notes of the striking Eternal Marquina quartz piece that anchors the reception area. In the same room, a showstopping Kelly Wearstler fixture sets the tone for the hits of glamour peppered throughout
the salon: flush-mount gold fixtures from Wayfair in the treatment rooms, metallic CB2 wall sconces, geometric gold handles mounted on white cabinets. Each treatment room features its own unique wallpaper from Prime Walls or Crown Wallpaper and Fabric—geometric or floral prints in a similar pastel colour palette—and even the bathroom gets its own special wall treatment, too, with soft lilac porcelain subway tiles from Ames Tile and a wallpaper grid of pink swoops and swirls. All in all, with these little touches and elegant finishes, Velji has turned a simple black-box studio into something sweet. MORE INSPIRING SPACES Find more great rooms to pin and save at westernliving.ca
Colin Way
SUGAR, SUGAR
Each treatment room in Sucré studio features its own unique wallpaper from Prime Walls or Crown Wallpaper and Fabric (above), while the bathroom is detailed in soft lilac porcelain subway tiles (left) from Ames Tile.
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E S TA B L I S H E
With you for every step since 1907.
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HOMES I N T E R I O R S // A R C H I T E C T U R E // D E S I G N // L I V I N G
Take Two
Tracey Ayton
Every great design deserves a second coming. When the current homeowners purchased the Spiral House, built in 1975, it had fallen into disrepair. But they brought back the original architect, and he created his second masterpiece, inspired by the first—complete with a puzzle-box-like matrix of Douglas fir beams overhead. For more on this tale of a home’s rebirth, turn to page 42.
westernliving.ca / o c t o b e r
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VIRTUOUS Many of the most influential design shows of 2018—Salone del Mobile in Milan, Paris’s Maison et Objet, London’s Design Biennale—shared similar overarching themes such as “Emotional States” or “Virtuous,” each calling for designers to create meaning in design in seemingly fractured times. The result: trends that emerge for 2019 take this social, economic, environmental and technological landscape into new mash-ups, from over-the-top maximalist colour palettes to quieter, nature-influenced design. The other thing these trends all have in common? They’re all pretty damn beautiful. by barb sligl // photographs by clinton hussey // styling by nicole sjÖstedt shot on location at lizbell agency, North vancouver
3 2 o c t o b e r 2 0 1 8 / westernliving.ca
REALITY Super Chunk Indulgently chubby or plump pieces were, ahem, big at NYCxDesign. Oversized forms and silhouettes were one of the top trends at Sight Unseen (which hosts the Offsite design fair during NYCxDesign to showcase new ideas and talent). It translated to texture, too: tubular, corrugated, chunky. Furniture is going fat forward, like the big-and-bold honeycomb burst of the Bubble chair by Roche Bobois or the voluminous volcano-shaped Fuji pouf by MDF Italia. Dark grey Cabaret easy armchair by Kenneth Cobonpue ($3,675), bloomfurniturestudio.com Lime-green Bubble chair by Sacha Lakic for Roche Bobois (price on request), roche-bobois.com Oversized ceramic shapes by Nathalie Du Pasquier by Bitossi (starting from $1,800), livingspace.com Fuji pink and grey felt poufs by MDF Italia (from $1,755), livingspace.com
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WL HOMES // furniture trends
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Nod to Nature “Biophilia,” the notion that humans have an instinctive connection to nature—and a desire to bring it indoors into domestic spaces—continues to hold strong in the design sphere. During Milan Design Week, Moooi wallpaper paid homage to the beauty and textures of extinct animals, featuring motifs from dodo plumage to dwarf-rhino skin. At NYCxDesign week, the (ongoing) tropical modernism trend was seen in vibrant palettes and breezy rattan, much like the glossy black and natural-cane panels of the Suri desk designed by Ceci Thompson for CB2. Its exotic vibe and boho chic seems to answer nature’s call—and a return to retro. Fladis seagrass baskets ($15), ikea.ca Selection of tropical plants from West Van Florist Home and Garden, westvanflorist.com Blue mesh side table with marble top by Kettal ($1,910), informinteriors.com Industriell pendant lamp ($30), ikea.ca Black and rattan Suri cane desk ($1,599), cb2.com Halves side table by Muuto ($500), vanspecial.com
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WL HOMES // furniture trends
Soft Ware Salone del Mobile’s first-ever manifesto asked designers to use technology to benefit well-being. Enter Google, which made its debut at Salone this year (with an installation highlighting its hardware designs for the home), as well as Sonos (announcing a design partnership with Hay), and even Instagram (launching the @design handle and #DesignForAll hashtag at the fair). Tech, it turns out, can be beautiful: the Qlocktwo Classic, for example, tells time with words (techno typography!); Bang and Olufsen’s Shape is a wall-mounted wireless speaker system that looks as good as it sounds. BeoSound Shape core amplifier and dampener, wall-mounted speaker system by Bang and Olufsen ($7,630 as shown), commercialelectronics.ca Matte white LED Tetatet torch light by Davide Groppi ($758), informinteriors.com Qlocktwo Classic by Brandmasters International ($3,000), livingspace.com Glass Empatia light by Artemide ($1,140), livingspace.com
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WL HOMES // furniture trends
Return to Retro Furniture designers have always referenced the past, but there’s a certain wistfulness to the reboots of the 20th-century designs predominating Milan Design Week. “It’s about nostalgia,” said Felix Burrichter, design savant and creative director of architectural magazine Pin-Up. Take the quiet charm of the relaunched 1950s-era Result chair with its simple oak seat and backrest (a collaboration of Danish and Dutch design houses Hay and Ahrend) or the more glam spirit of the 1968 Panton chair (reissued in a limited chrome for its 50th anniversary at IMM Cologne). They’re a very-now reflection and renaissance of mid-century design’s heyday. Result chair by Hay ($450), vanspecial.com Loft sofa by Bensen ($4,875), informinteriors.com Black leather and gold-frame chair by Colette Berger for Minotti ($12,625), livingspace.com Study in Red and Study in Yellow paintings by David Burns 3 8 o c t o b e r 2 0 1 8 / westernliving.ca
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WL HOMES // furniture trends
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To the Max Forget less is more. Maximalism was on display at Salone del Mobile in clashing patterns and pop-art pieces. Loud and proud, it’s about colours and stimuli that bring the fun (read: happiness, one of the “Emotional States” explored at the 2018 London Design Biennale). That sense of joy and whimsy is found on the magic-carpet ride of “Allan’s Fever” by Wool and Silk Rugs and aboard the wild stripes of the modular Voyage Immobile sofa by Roche Bobois. Astro mobile light suspension Designed by Andrew Neyer for his collection “Stuff by Andrew Neyer,” ($4,450), lightform.ca Voyage Immobile modular composition sofa (price on request), roche-bobois.com Cala high chair by Kettal ($7,399), informinteriors.com 8’x10’ Allan’s Fever by Wool and Silk Rugs ($18,400), salari.com
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CI
Architect Rol Fieldwalker revisits the site of his groundbreaking 1975 Spiral House and begins anew.
E
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by Rosemary Poole photographs by Tracey ayton
WL HOMES // full circle
Spiral Revamp In the new design, the interior finishes are limited to a mix of Douglas fir, slate, greystained white oak and white (Benjamin Moore’s Cloud White) which gives the connected principal rooms a sense of ease and flow, and brings the architectural details and views to the fore.
I
t was almost perfect. The vast wedge-shaped site on a rocky bluff, surrounded by dense cedar, fir and spruce trees and sitting 200 metres above sea level, was the kind of dream lot buyers look for in the mountainside village of Lions Bay, just north of West Vancouver. Almost perfect, save for a neglected, once-beautiful home that had suffered decades of disrepair and neglect. “It was in a terrible state,” says Barbara Maryniak, who purchased the site with her husband, George, in 2005. “The flat roof was leaking, and the house had been rotting for many, many years. It had the most awful smell. After visits, it was hard to get it out of our clothes.” Through their realtor, the couple learned the house had been built in 1975 by a young architect named Rol Fieldwalker, and, a year later, it had been featured in the pages of this magazine. Called the Spiral House, its layout referenced the form of a chambered nautilus shell, with open, multi-purpose spaces that fanned out from a central chimney column. A series of sawtooth-shaped windows zigzagged across the front of the house, creating niches for lounging and view-gazing, while an abundance of wood, used in the ceiling, walls and several support posts and made from fir tree trunks with their bark still intact, created a kind of forest within: a literal tree house. Built in deliberate
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The Original The Spiral House, seen in Western Living in 1976, took its layout inspiration from a chambered nautilus shell. Its open, multi-purpose spaces fanned out from a central chimney column.
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WL HOMES // full circle
Calm and Coherent Large-format slate tile runs to the outside dining area, unifying the home’s interior and exterior rooms. The fireplace is faced in Pennsylvania bluestone; the matching sofas are a custom design by Omega Custom Furniture, and the coffee and dining tables are by local maker Mitch Gwynne. Abstract paintings throughout are by the homeowner, Barbara Maryniak.
isolation, there was no electricity (the owners relied on kerosene lamps) and no driveway, only a meandering footpath from the street to the main entrance. Now that vision of unencumbered ’70s living was all but lost under awkward modifications by subsequent owners, and, fatally, it was sliding down the rocky slope, its wraparound decks rotted through. It was past the point of saving. In need of a site survey and a way forward, the couple reached out to Fieldwalker. Their initial meeting led to a long discussion about his design principles, West Coast architecture and, eventually, a commission for a second house. “I liked his philosophy around building houses,” says Barbara. “The idea of a house in and out of nature.” Just as the first house curved around the front of the property, so would the second, using a portion of the original foundation to form the basis of the new swimming pool. Fieldwalker also returned to patterns found in nature, layering the eaves like the branches of the
surrounding cedars. “The branches of the cedar have a very definite form in terms of how they slope down and have overlapping planes,” says Fieldwalker. “That idea for the roof was something that I thought would allow the house to blend in with its surroundings.” Inside, the structure of the roof was left exposed, creating an elaborate, almost puzzle-box-like matrix of Douglas fir beams and rafters. “The craftsmanship of the wood was part of the design intent because the wood tells a story there,” says Fieldwalker. “I wanted you to feel, as soon as you came into the realm of the house, a very protective presence.” The floor plan itself evolved carefully, if painstakingly, over two years, resulting in 5,500 square feet over four levels. On the main floor, the entryway opens into an interconnected dining room, kitchen and living room, with a private office and laundry area down a separate wing that leads to the garage. Up the central floating staircase is the master suite and the so-called “eagle’s nest”: a
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789102-X
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jasongoodcabinets.com
2018-08-28 10:18 AM
WL HOMES // full circle
Gathering Place Using wood-toned cabinetry would have detracted from the Douglas fir ceiling. Instead, interior designer Emma Comesotti chose modern flat-front cabinets and doors stained a custom shade of oyster grey to draw in the shades of the water and islands visible outside. The countertops are a low-maintenance engineered stone, while metal cabinet pulls and pendant lights by Tech Lighting add shimmer. The counter stools and dining chairs are by Omega Custom Furniture.
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BPPThan
PROMOTION
WHEN WEST COAST MEETS NATURAL WELLNESS We teamed up with British Pacific Properties to unveil a stunning new West Vancouver retreat. Guest samples spritzes, tonics, and tested the electrical lifestyle in the North Shore Mountains with it’s spectacular ocean vistas, running with the theme of all things West Coast and natural wellness.
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2018-07-26 9:55 AM
WL HOMES // full circle
“The craftsmanship of the wood was part of the design intent because the wood tells a story there,” says Fieldwalker. View from the Top On the top floor of the house are the master suite and “the eagle’s nest”—a dedicated space for Barbara’s art and writing. The slate tile flooring installed throughout the house was also used for the shower and bathtub surround, creating a seamless, continuous look.
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dedicated studio space for Barbara’s artwork and writing. Downstairs, a casual family room and three bedrooms, each with its own bathroom, accommodate enviable house guests. And from every room—save for perhaps one bathroom, notes George—sweeping views of Howe Sound: from Cypress Mountain in the far west to Anvil Island in the east, with Bowen and Gambier in between as sleeping giants in shades of dark blue. Despite the home’s size, it is a calm and coherent space, owing to a limited palette of slate, fir and white walls. The couple enlisted their daughter, Emma Comesotti of Philosophy Design, to select interior finishes, millwork and furnishings that would work in harmony with the architecture. “There’s not a lot of colourful patterns or statement furniture,” says Comesotti. “We wanted pieces to be substantial, comfortable and of high quality, but we
WL HOMES // full circle
True Match A portion of the original house’s foundation was retained for the outer wall of the new swimming pool. Comesotti had the pool finished in a shade of grey-blue to mirror the water in Howe Sound. A fully equipped outdoor kitchen area and a bathroom directly off the pool deck keep everyone outside for hours at a time.
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didn’t want them to clutter up the beautiful architecture or the view.” Ultimately, most of the major pieces were custom made, with the shades of grey found in the slate tile, the pool, the millwork and the upholstery carefully calibrated to mirror the layers of grey and blue seen off in the distance. With few exceptions, most notably a pair of custom dining tables by local maker Mitch Gwynne, wood was used sparsely so as not to detract from that remarkable ceiling. Now retired, Fieldwalker considers the project a kind of “marker” to his 40-year career, the culmination of a long exploration of geometry, order and, ultimately, pattern recognition. “For me, that’s a model for art, music and architecture. They all require time and space to work, but they create emotions by the way they come together…The final result is something else. It’s almost alive.”
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A MILLION LITTLE MOMENTS Every inch was considered in this modern, minimal house. by Barb Sligl // photographs by tracey ayton
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WL HOMES // a million little moments
I
t took two weeks to come up with the right configuration of Bocci lights. Homeowner Zack raised and lowered water balloons rigged on fishing line in the entryway of his house when it was still a framed structure. “I would move them every day and play with them,” he says. Today, those 24 glass balls are a pinkand-purple constellation framed within the secondfloor window. At night, from the street, it becomes a lightbox and work of art. “That’s full-on Zack,” says architect David Nicolay of Evoke International Design. “This is the stuff he thinks about.” Nicolay simply gave him the space to turn those
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thoughts into moments within the architecture—from that Bocci cascade to a 51-foot hallway that’s treated as a piece of art. The two worked closely together for two and a half years, starting from the permit navigation when Zack found a double-wide corner lot in Vancouver’s Mount Pleasant neighbourhood. A pokey pink house (which Zack named Pinkenstein) was demolished to make room for the minimal, modern box that now stretches 54 feet across the whole width of the property. “I would take wide and shallow over narrow and long many times over,” says Zack of the wide-and-low typology of modern architecture and the unrestricted
Modern Magic “Zack is very much a less-is-more guy,” says architect David Nicolay. The homeowner selected all the furnishings, from the Poliform sofa in the living room (above) to the Bocci lights in the entryway (left and right). The artwork in the living room was commissioned by friend and artist David Biddle.
natural light that comes through the width of this 3,700-square-foot two-level, four-bedroom/three-bathroom house. “The back of the house is very transparent,” says Nicolay of the huge floor-to-ceiling sliding and stacking panes that create a 30-foot seamless opening to the backyard from the great room (made of a connected kitchen, dining and living room). And there are no extraneous additions. “We kept it very modest in its footprint, we didn’t do a lot of wiggles on it, we kept the form very simple, the fenestration very simple…” says Nicolay—because, well, “You can’t hide crummy details in a modern house.”
Everything was thought out and lined up. Obsessively. “Every inch was considered,” says Zack, who jokes about being near-fanatical about detail. Control cuts in the concrete, which prevent it from cracking, line up with structural columns, which line up with window mullions and interior walls. And the wideand-low rectilinear profile of the house itself is repeated and layered throughout the design; the cast-in-place concrete fireplace, windows, wrapped range hood, shower insets and bathroom mirrors are all iterations of the same basic shape. “One of the big themes of the house is that it’s very
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WL HOMES // a million little moments
Welcome In The front door is on a pivot and measures six feet wide, introducing you to the scale that you are going to find inside. In the kitchen and throughout the home, Benjamin Moore’s Simply White keeps the space feeling as airy as an art gallery.
consistent and things are repeated throughout,” says Zack. Each bathroom has the same white marble, differentiating in size from largeformat to mosaic tiles. And the material and colour palette is limited to whites and greys in concrete and drywall, plus the warmth of white oak—all in matte and honed finishes, from white Corian countertops to the also-white free-standing tub in the master bath. Everything is quiet; nothing is shiny. Even the polished concrete floor has a matte sealer on it. And the exterior cedar siding is stained a soft, custom charcoal that was, of course, well sampled by Zack. Nicolay calls it “an exercise in minimalism,” resulting in strippedout details and distraction—even in lighting. The long, linear light over the dining table is almost invisible. After searching for an unobtrusive pendant, Zack ended up designing and making the one-inch-square tubular LED fixture with another designer and his father, an architect who designed the house Zack grew up in (which was featured in Western Living in 1987). “There’s a million of those little moments happening in this house,” says Zack—like the reveal (the gap between wall and concrete floor) that climbs up stairs and turns corners in perfect alignment. It’s also flush with hardware-free doors that disappear when closed. “Not
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WL HOMES // a million little moments
Into the Wild “The house is very modern and minimal,” says Zack, “but the landscape is very lush and wild. I like a wild landscape, which really softens things—it’s a blend of natural and hard.” The contrast is well illustrated in the master bedroom and in the view out the window (above).
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WL HOMES // a million little moments
Great Openings The rear of the house is fitted with a massive minimal-frame slidingpanel system that was imported from Portugal, the first time this system was used in Vancouver.
a bump or a lump or an imperfection,” says Zack. “These walls are so straight and clean…they’re beautiful, whereas in another house they’re just walls.” The walls are so perfect that Zack and his wife, Elana, chose to leave them mostly bare and free of art. “The upper-floor hallway really surprises people,” says Zack, because it runs the full 51-foot width of the house, and the uninterrupted white walls are suffused with natural light from skylights overhead and floor-to-ceiling, wall-to-wall windows on either end. The hall is the art. There are, of course, decor elements that pop against all that flawless white: a purple Bensen sofa, a statement-making Artemide Tolomeo Mega floor lamp, a quirky Starck gnome stool, a whimsical Ingo Maurer Lucellino table light, and iconic modern-design pieces like an original Tavolo con Ruote coffee table that once belonged to Zack’s dad. And those multi-hued Bocci lights. One of the glass balls hangs low, a purposeful positioning that Zack first tested out with those water balloons. Just visible through the window from the street, it draws the eyes of passersby. And it encourages anyone approaching the wide expanse of the house to look up and see the other balls of light. The view unfolds, changes and reveals more. Much like all the little moments happening in this house.
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creativehome.ca
Made in BC
Solid Wood
1738 West 2nd Avenue, Vancouver 1100 Lansdowne Drive, Coquitlam
FOOD
R E S T A U R A N T S // E X P E R T A D V I C E // E N T E R T A I N I N G // W I N E // R E C I P E S
Eat Local
Kevin Clark
For visitors coming to Vancouver, the shortcut to local immersion is undoubtedly a culinary one. Stopping by the jazz-bar-inspired Kissa Tanto for Italianmeets-Japanese small plates or piling into a booth at Minami in Yaletown for rounds of the city’s best blowtorchseared aburi sushi—this is how you get to know the real Vancouver: through its food. That’s why we dig Vancouver Eats, the new cookbook from foodie doyenne Joanne Sasvari. It’s packed with homecook-friendly recipes from Vancouver’s top chefs and their restaurants—Hawksworth, Savio Volpe, Maenam, CinCin, Farmer’s Apprentice, Forage and more— including David Robertson’s Dirty Apron Cooking School. A signature experience in itself, the Dirty Apron is where Robertson has been teaching Vancouverites how to hand-make pasta and braise roasts for nearly a decade, and now he gets to teach you. If you don’t get a chance to visit his kitchen for a hands-on cooking class and dinner, turning the page for his braised lamb shoulder and butternut squashricotta gnocchi recipe is surely the next best thing.
Head Start Every part of this braised lamb dinner-party dish can be made ahead of time. Find the recipe on page 66.
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WLFOOD // bites
Braised Lamb Shoulder with Butternut SquashRicotta Gnocchi
e v en t s
BITES
Nowhere *A Restaurant G4–1001 Douglas St., Victoria
What we’re eating and drinking.
Who Chef/owner Andrew Mavor Why we’re excited Locally loved Hank’s *A Restaurant has opened a second location with a seafood-celebratory menu that changes frequently—recent dishes included Dungeness crab ravioli, sablefish fried rice and ling cod cheeks prepared with risotto, anchovies and “an excessive use of butter.” Yes. nowherearestaurant.com
David Robertson, chef, The Dirty Apron Cooking School
Braised lamb shoulder 1½ lbs boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 3 equal pieces 2 tbsp vegetable oil, or as needed Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 large onion, chopped 1 carrot, chopped 1 stalk celery, chopped 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped (divided) 1½ cups dry red wine 1 cup crushed tomatoes, canned ½ cup beef stock, or as needed ½ cup chicken stock, or as needed ¼ cup maple syrup 2 tbsp sherry vinegar 2 sprigs fresh thyme 1 sprig fresh rosemary 1 bay leaf 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Shaved parmesan, for garnish Handful of arugula, for garnish
Butternut squash-ricotta gnocchi 1 medium butternut squash, cut in half lengthwise and seeds removed Vegetable oil, for brushing 1 cup drained ricotta 1 large egg, lightly beaten ¾ cup grated parmesan 1 tsp freshly grated nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1⅓ cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting and dredging 1. To make the braised lamb shoulder, preheat oven to 300°F. Heat a large frying pan over high heat and add enough vegetable oil to coat. Season lamb on all sides with salt and pepper. Carefully add lamb to pan and sear until brown on all sides. Place in a Dutch oven or braising pan and set aside. 2. Add onion, carrot, celery and half of garlic to the frying pan and cook for 5 minutes, until tender. Pour in wine and bring to a boil, scraping any bits of meat from the bottom of the pan. Cook for 10 minutes, until liquid is reduced by half. 3. Stir in canned tomatoes, stocks, maple syrup and vinegar and bring to a boil. Pour mixture over lamb. The liquid should almost cover the lamb—if it doesn’t, add more stock or water. Add thyme, rosemary and bay leaf. Cover with a lid or foil and braise in the oven for 3 hours, until meat is fork tender. Set aside to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 4 hours or preferably overnight to let the flavours 6 6 o c t o b e r 2 0 1 8 / westernliving.ca
e v en t s
Jacek Chocolate Experience and Tour 406 K ask a Rd., Sherwood Park, CALGARY October 12 and 26
Try chocolates from around the world, then taste fresh-roasted beans and see them transformed into truffles. You can even try your hand at wrapping a bar. Learn about chocolate pairings—like brie, pear and caramelized white chocolate. It works, trust us. jacekchocolate.com
Home for Dinner VANCOUVER
Put that hostess-with-themostess experience to use with the Home for Dinner program, supporting Ronald McDonald House. Invite your friends for dinner and whip up some fall treats—just make sure they bring a donation instead of wine. It’s an excuse to host another fall dinner party, and this time it’s for a good cause. rmhbc.ca/home-for-dinner
Rocky Mountain Wine and Food Festival Calgary, Stampede Park BMO Centre October 12 and 13 Edmonton, Shaw Conference Centre October 19 and 20
Alberta’s fall food show is back with plenty of newcomers. Calgarians can get bites from the Wednesday Room and taste Lekker Cider. Edmontonians get sweets from FanFan Pastry and hard stuff from Elk Island Spirits Co. Last year the festival raised $16,000 for charity; now they want to do better. rockymountainwine.com
settle and develop. 4. Remove fat, which will have solidified. Gently reheat over low heat. Once the braising liquid has come to liquid form, remove the lamb. Strain the liquid into a bowl and discard the solids. Cut lamb into bite-sized cubes. 5. To make the gnocchi, preheat oven to 400°F. Lightly flour a baking sheet. Lightly brush cut side of butternut squash with oil. Place squash cut-side down on a baking sheet and roast for 1 hour, until tender. Set aside to cool slightly, then scoop out flesh. Discard skin. 6. Measure 2 cups squash and chill in the fridge for at least 1 hour. (You can freeze any remaining squash to use another time.) 7. In a large bowl, combine 2 cups squash, ricotta, egg, parmesan and nutmeg. Season with salt and pepper and mix well. Gradually fold in flour, taking care not to overwork the dough. Dredge dough in
flour. On a clean work surface, roll out dough by hand into a rope with a ¾-inch diameter. Cut rope into 1-inch pieces and place onto prepared baking sheet. Refrigerate until needed. 8. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Drop gnocchi into the water and cook for 1 minute, until they float to the surface. Using a slotted spoon, transfer gnocchi onto a lightly oiled baking sheet and toss lightly to prevent them from sticking to each other. Set aside to cool. 9. To assemble, heat olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add remaining garlic and sauté for 1 minute, until fragrant. Add lamb and quickly sauté. Pour in 2 cups of braising liquid and simmer until reduced to your desired consistency. Add gnocchi and gently toss together. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with shaved parmesan and arugula. Serves 4.
Rocky Mountain Wine and Food Festival: Darren Roberts
recipe
WLFOOD // One pan for all
One Pan for All
5 essential sheet-pan meals
to get you through the week.
recipes by Julie Van Rosendaal photographs and food styling by Tracey Kusiewicz
Is time what’s standing between you and a hearty home-cooked meal during the busy workweek? Enter the unassuming sheet pan. It isn’t fancy, but the utilitarian standby that’s been with you during the good times (that perfect batch of holiday sugar cookies) and hard times (the deluxe nacho fire of 2016) is all you need to create a fast and easy one-dish dinner, complete with mains and anything-but-boring sides.
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Mission Possible: How to Extract Pomegranate Seeds Score around the middle of the pomegranate with a knife, and then twist and rip the fruit into two halves. Then hold one half of the pomegranate at a time with the seeds facing down and bash the skin with a wooden spoon to knock the seeds out. Squeezing the skin helps loosen them, too.
ROASTED SPICED CAULIFLOWER, ACORN SQUASH AND CHICKPEAS Vegetables are perfect candidates for roasting; all you need is oil and salt, and high heat to caramelize their natural sugars. Try not to crowd the pan too much, so that the veggies have a chance to brown on the edges, rather than steam. If you like, swap chunks of sweet potato or butternut for the acorn squash. 1 small head cauliflower 1 small acorn squash 1 can chickpeas (398 ml), rinsed and drained 1 tbsp chili powder 2 tsp cumin Salt and pepper, to taste Olive or canola oil, for cooking
GARLICKY TAHINI SAUCE 3 to 4 tbsp tahini Juice of 1 lemon (about 3 tbsp) 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp plain yogurt or water 1 garlic clove, finely crushed Chopped parsley, for garnish Sliced, toasted almonds, for garnish Pomegranate seeds, for garnish Lemon wedges, for serving Preheat oven to 425ËšF. Separate cauliflower into florets. Cut squash in half lengthwise, scoop out seeds and slice about 1/3-inch thick. Spread veggies out on a heavy, parchment-lined baking sheet, along with the chickpeas. Drizzle everything with oil and sprinkle with chili powder, cumin, salt and pepper. Shake pan or gently roll and toss with your hands to coat veggies well. Roast for about 30 minutes, stirring once or twice, until cauliflower and squash are tender and golden on the edges. Whisk together the dressing ingredients, along with a big pinch of salt, in a small bowl or measuring cup, adding a splash of water if it seems too thick. Arrange roasted veggies on a platter, drizzle with tahini dressing and scatter with parsley, almonds and pomegranate seeds. Serves 4 to 6.
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WLFOOD // One pan for all
PORK TENDERLOIN WITH ROASTED FALL VEGETABLES It takes the same amount of time to roast one pork tenderloin as it does to cook two, so plan for one for every 2 to 3 people. If you don’t have a favourite dry spice rub, combine 1 tbsp chili powder; 1 tsp each cumin, paprika, oregano and salt; and ½ tsp black pepper. 1 to 2 pork tenderloins (3/4 to 1 lb each) 2 to 3 tbsp of your favourite spice rub 2 carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 parsnip, cut into 1-inch chunks 1 small rutabaga and/or dark-fleshed sweet potato, peeled (or not), and cut into 1-inch chunks 8 to 10 Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved Olive or canola oil, for cooking Salt and pepper, to taste 7 0 o c t o b e r 2 0 1 8 / westernliving.ca
Preheat oven to 450˚F. Pat pork tenderloins dry with paper towel, transfer to a heavy parchment-lined baking sheet and rub all over with the dry spice mixture. Arrange the vegetables around the pork, drizzle with oil and toss with your hands to coat the veggies well, then spread out in a single layer on the sheet. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast for 5 minutes, then turn oven down to 400˚F for 15 minutes, or until the internal temperature of the pork is 160˚F. Remove from oven and set aside to rest for 5 to 10 minutes (returning veggies to the oven for 5 to 10 minutes if they aren’t tender and caramelized). Slice pork on a slight diagonal and serve with the veggies. Serves 6 to 8.
WLFOOD // One pan for all
CHICKEN CAESAR WITH ROASTED GARLIC AND PROSCIUTTO By roasting thighs along with crusty bread chunks, you’ll make croutons crisped by chicken drippings. Prosciutto draped overtop cooks quickly and is irresistibly crisp and salty, but feel free to use strips of regular bacon instead—just add a few minutes of cooking time. 4 to 6 chicken thighs, with skin and bone ½ loaf crusty bread or baguette, cut into large cubes Olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste 1 whole head garlic, halved crosswise 1 to 2 rosemary sprigs (optional) 4 to 6 slices prosciutto or strip bacon 1 to 2 heads romaine, torn or chopped Freshly grated parmesan cheese
DRESSING ¼ cup olive or canola oil ¼ cup mayonnaise Juice of 1 lemon (about 3 tbsp) 2 tsp grainy or Dijon mustard 2 roasted garlic cloves, crushed with a fork Freshly ground black pepper Preheat oven to 400˚F. Spread bread cubes out on a heavy, parchment-lined baking sheet. Add chicken thighs and garlic, cut side up, to pan and drizzle everything with olive oil. Toss gently with your hands to coat, then spread bread cubes out into a single layer and place chicken in between and on top of bread. Tuck in a sprig or two of rosemary, if you like. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, taking pan out and gently shaking/stirring things around at some point if you feel like it. Lay prosciutto over chicken and bread cubes and return to the oven for 5 more minutes, until prosciutto is crisped up and chicken is cooked through. Fill a large platter (or as many plates as you have people eating) with torn or chopped romaine and whisk together dressing ingredients. Shred the chicken over the salad and top with croutons, crumbled prosciutto, a generous drizzle of dressing and lots of freshly grated parmesan. Serves 4. 7 2 o c t o b e r 2 0 1 8 / westernliving.ca
No-Fuss Cleanup Restaurant supply stores sell sturdy half sheet pans that won’t warp, with rimmed edges to contain rolling veggies. Pick up some parchment or a silicone baking mat, and cleanup is a cinch.
BEEF SATAY WITH SPICY BROCCOLINI AND PEANUT SAUCE Marinated strips or chunks of beef cook quickly, making satay perfect for a sheet pan meal; feel free to add thin baby carrots and snap peas to the mix, or swap pork tenderloin or even chicken breasts or thighs for the beef. 1/3 cup soy sauce 2 tbsp sesame oil 1 tbsp honey or brown sugar 1 tbsp grated ginger 2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 green onions, finely chopped 1 lb sirloin or other grilling steak, cut into strips 1 bunch broccolini Olive or canola oil, for cooking Salt Pinch red chili flakes
PEANUT SAUCE 1/3 cup peanut butter 2 tbsp soy sauce 2 tbsp brown sugar or honey 2 tbsp rice vinegar or lime juice 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 tsp grated fresh ginger 1 tsp sesame oil (optional) ¼ tsp curry paste or Sriracha (optional) In a bowl or large sealable bag, combine soy sauce, sesame oil, honey, ginger, garlic, green onions and steak, mixing everything well. Cover or seal and refrigerate for a few hours, or overnight.
broccolini out onto a heavy, parchmentlined sheet and drizzle with oil; toss with your hands to coat florets well, then spread them out in a single layer and sprinkle with salt and chili flakes (if you’re using them).
When ready to cook, preheat oven to 425˚F and soak a small handful of bamboo skewers in water for 15 minutes. Spread
Thread pieces of beef onto each skewer, winding back and forth in an S shape and pushing the meat down to make each
skewer uniform. Fill stick about halfway, leaving the dull end as a handle. Add skewers to the baking sheet, without crowding, and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until broccolini is tender-crisp and beef is just cooked through. Whisk together the peanut sauce ingredients, adding a splash of water if needed to achieve the right consistency, and serve alongside for dipping. Serves 4.
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WLFOOD // One pan for all
SALTIMBOCCA CHICKEN WITH BABY HASSELBACK POTATOES An Italian dish of chicken or veal wrapped in prosciutto with sage, saltimbocca is a great candidate for the sheet pan. Most any veggie works well as a side, but tiny hasselback potatoes are especially tasty. 4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts 4 to 8 slices prosciutto 1 lb baby potatoes Olive or canola oil, for cooking 10 sage leaves Salt and pepper, to taste Preheat oven to 425˚F. Slice potatoes crosswise hasselbackstyle by making a cut every ¼ inch without slicing all the way through. (To make this easier, set each potato between two chopsticks; this will keep it steady and prevent your knife from slicing through to the bottom.) Spread potatoes out on a heavy, parchment-lined baking sheet, drizzle with oil and toss them around to coat. Finely chop two sage leaves and sprinkle over the potatoes along with a generous shower of salt and pepper. Slide into oven for 10 to 15 minutes while you prep the chicken. Pound each piece of chicken between two pieces of parchment until it reaches an even thickness, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place a couple of sage leaves on top of each breast, and wrap in a slice or two of prosciutto. Remove pan from oven and push potatoes aside, tossing them around a bit on the pan as you do. Add chicken pieces to pan, drizzle with oil and return to oven for 12 to 15 minutes, or until cooked through. (The internal temperature should read 165˚F.) Serves 4.
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Field Notes
Think beyond chicken thighs and oven fries: most meat and vegetables can be roasted in the oven. Combine items with similar cooking times, like carrots and potatoes or cauliflower and squash, or add more delicate ingredients, like asparagus or cherry tomatoes, to the pan during the last 10 minutes of cooking time. There’s no need to take turns in the oven or to steam your sides on the stovetop; everything can be done at once, with minimal cleanup.
Photography by Allison Kuhl
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FOTYNO
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2018-08-29 10:05 AM
WLTRAVEL // la jolla back, girl
La Jolla Back, Girl Impossibly quaint seaside charm does exist in the hustle and bustle of Southern California—you just need to acquaint yourself with two magical words: “La” and “Jolla.” by Curtis Gillespie
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Vista Redux You can kayak in tranquil waters just offshore (opposite), but when the swells pick up, you’re also covered (this page).
Kayaking: Neta Degany; lifeguard tower: Mike Vas
F
rom shore, the sea swell appeared placid, and to an experienced kayaker undoubtedly benign. But to me, a prairie boy, a man for whom the term “large body of water” signifies an eight-person hot tub, the ocean is a vast, dark, deep, terrifying, hostile, sick-making, lonely and threat-ridden entity. I’d rather be shot into space than left adrift on a boat. Yet there I was, ever the professional journalist, on a sea kayak doing what no man of sound mind and standard dignity would do. I had accepted the challenge of our guide, Aidan. “I only ask for volunteers,” he noted, “because I just can’t force anyone to do it. It wouldn’t be right.” This wasn’t just about professionalism. You get to a certain age and, yes, as pathetic as it is, you want to prove every now and then that you aren’t just a spent shell casing, that there’s still a little gunpowder left in the mixed metaphor tank. Not that everyone agreed with me. My wife, Cathy, was at the front end of our two-seat kayak. “Just sit down,” she said. “You’re going to tip us over.” Her wise counsel fell on water-plugged ears. The challenge? Stand up for 10 seconds on the kayak. A couple of kids in our flotilla had already given it a go and failed. They were half my age, half my weight and had twice my flexibility, but apparently were about as smart. “Oh, and don’t forget about the marine life in La Jolla Cove,” added
Aidan. “Such biodiversity. Dolphins, squid, seals…sharks. Just kidding!” Ha. The first stage was hard enough, and that involved simply bending my knees to get a foot under one butt cheek, calling for manoeuvers such as dipping one leg over the side, rolling to the other side, then yoinking a foot under my torso. It was about as elegant as a newborn foal trying to stand for the first time, though not nearly as heartwarming. I eventually managed to screw myself into a squatting position. Cathy was trying to prevent us from capsizing, though she also looked suspiciously ready to abandon ship, and me, at the first sign of any real trouble. I slowly achieved a crouch, got halfway up, eased into a standing position, and was getting ready to crow in victory when it hit. The sea swell. The boat rose and fell so sharply it was as if a whale were passing directly underneath us. I buckled a bit at the knees, adjusted, waved my arms around, staggered like a cartoon drunk, grabbed for Cathy—but then the swell passed, and suddenly the water was flat and calm again. I was still standing. Aidan was hooting, counting. Four, five, six, seven . . . another swell, but this time I was ready…eight, nine. “Ten!” Aidan shouted out. Others splashed the water with their paddles. I took another few seconds to look around from my perch. The shore was a painting of gorgeous homes, bluffs, pines, bird life. I could see hang-gliders drifting around in the sky to the north. Incredibly, a quartet of dolphins broke westernliving.ca / o c t o b e r
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Shore Leave The scenery in La Jolla has it all: rocky peninsulas, fantastical land formations, famed golf courses and even the tree that inspired Dr. Seuss to write The Lorax (right).
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“The shore was a painting of gorgeous homes, bluffs, cliffs, pines, bird life. I could see hang-gliders drifting around in the sky to the north.” through the water’s surface a couple of hundred metres to our south. It seemed hard to believe that all this was visible from just one spot. At that point, I realized that my moment of triumph over the sea swell hadn’t quelled various internal waves. It suddenly seemed wise to take a seat and get paddling. “We have to get to shore,” I said. “I think I’m going to hurl.” Back on land, barely in time, Cathy and I made our way to La Jolla Cove, where, for some reason, I thought I could calm my stomach at the Karl Strauss brewery, one of San Diego’s brewing institutions and the outfit that, in many ways, started the craft beer trend in the area. I can’t say my plan worked, exactly, but at least now I know that a hoppy IPA and fiery tofu sticks don’t cure seasickness. After regrouping back at our base—the gorgeous Balinese-inspired Pantai Inn, which virtually sits on the water in La Jolla Cove—we had a stroll down the beach walk, where we were able to see both the famous Lorax tree (actually a Monterey cypress) that inspired Theodor Geisel, a.k.a. Dr. Seuss, and the seal gathering at Point Mencinger, where mums and their pups lay around impersonating bloated sausages, occasionally rolling over as if that was all they had in them to accomplish. After dining that night on the French cuisine at the excellent Marine Room, I could relate. This rather odd pairing of activities within a two-minute stroll of each other—seeing the Lorax tree and the seal pup cove—struck me as emblematic of what makes La Jolla such a pleasant and even surprising place to visit, especially given that it is part of a larger urban area, San Diego, which itself has typically been known for little else besides great weather and a big zoo. But when you break it down, La Jolla is actually about five different villages, each possessing its own character and vibe. South La Jolla is primarily outfitted with the kind of neighbourhoods that if you need to ask what it costs to live there, you can’t afford it. Just north of this is the Cove, which is replete with high-end art shops, a superb bookstore (Warwick’s) and a good supply of fine restaurants. It’s the Monaco of the area. When you pass over the Cove’s hill and cliffs, you’ll head into La Jolla Shores and La Jolla Village proper, with their long beaches and SoCal vibe. This was where we departed for our kayak adventure, and it’s where you’ll come across some of the funkier, student-type places, as opposed to the more highend shops of the Cove. North of the Village and slightly inland is the University of California San Diego campus, which has more than 35,000 students and is regularly ranked among the world’s top universities. Topping it all off, geographically, anyway, is the northernmost end of La Jolla, where you’ll find Torrey Pines Golf Course, the Lodge at Torrey Pines and the Torrey Pines State Reserve, all of which are stunning in different ways. Our second evening there, we walked to dinner on the coastal
Aerial view: Art Wager; Lorax tree: Sherry Smith; Broken Hill at Torrey Pines State Reserve: Sam Antonio; Torrey Pines Golf Course: Ron Thomas
WLTRAVEL // la jolla
Karl Strauss brewery: chicken: Brogen Jessup; Gliderport paragliding: Ron Thomas; sea lions, La Jolla Cove: Neta Degany
Optional Options An “average” day might see you visiting a famed microbrewery or eating at a legendary restaurant or hang-gliding (maybe watching hang-gliding).
path along the cliffs and outlooks. As you walk, you can see that many segments of the trail have had to be rerouted or repaired over the years due to coastal erosion. The concept of erosion is something La Jollans have to grapple with just about every day, probably more than most seaside dwellers. That’s because much of their coastline is built from sandstone piled up onto cliffs and arroyos and barrancas that, on the plus side, create dramatic spots for viewpoints, glider launches, golf courses, hotels and staggeringly expensive residences. The downside is that sandstone is porous and unstable, which tends to be an issue with the ocean pounding away at the shore every second of every day. The coastline is inevitably and irreversibly shifting. Humans have built retaining walls and bulwarks all along that stretch of the coast, but the reality is that, sooner or later, the sea will win. Luckily, there is also erosion of a different kind at work in La Jolla, namely the erosion of homogeneity due to its growing melting pot of populations and cultural influences, particularly from south of the border. There are Mexican influences to be felt everywhere, from the music to the people to the art. Cali-Baja is alive and well in La Jolla and San Diego, and perhaps the best example of the fusion that’s taking place is the cooking scene. A number of chefs from both sides of the border have come up with a variety of cross-fertilizing events throughout the year. La Jolla cuisine stands out for that fusion (as well as for the quality of its seafood). Our meals ranged from plain tasty to outright sensational. There was the inventiveness of George’s at the Cove, the stunning view and French influence of the Marine Room, the exceptional service of Nine-Ten. But the highlight had to be A.R. Valentien in the Lodge at Torrey Pines. It was as close to perfect as a meal can get; we were seated in a lovely booth overlooking the golf course and the bluffs as the sun set. Chef Jeff Jackson’s menu is primarily focused on local and seasonal availability—and might feature such things as truffled celery root risotto, caramelized scallops, sea bass with fava beans, vol-au-vent with green garlic and oyster mushrooms. It was a memorable meal. The restaurant is named after the early 20th-century California artist whose paintings hang in various spots throughout the room. The Lodge at Torrey Pines (a traditional California Craftsman building) also happens to be a great home base if you’re visiting La Jolla for outdoor pursuits, since it’s right beside three such pursuits, two of which I tried and the third being something I will attempt only on the day I lose every one of my faculties. That’s hang-gliding I’m talking about, by the way. The Torrey Pines Gliderport is just down the street from the Lodge, and even if you’re not a parasailer or hang-glider, you can pass an hour watching these brave and foolhardy souls launch themselves off cliffs with nothing but the wind and a couple of bedsheets to keep them aloft and therefore alive. The pièce d’insanity came when we watched
Smoked Jidori Chicken from George’s at the Cove.
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WLTRAVEL // la jolla
an elderly gent trundle toward the cliff in a homemade balsa wood WWI-style biplane glider. I watched through my fingers, already looking for the coast guard, but somehow he got airborne and stayed there. It was a Sunday, so I’m guessing he must have been a man of faith. From the Gliderport, you can actually see the 12th green of the recreational facility that I was willing to become more involved in, that being the Torrey Pines Golf Course. The South Course (there is also a shorter North Course) is an iconic track that hosts a PGA tournament every year and that hosted the US Open in 2008 (Tiger won) and will do so again in 2021. At over 7,600 yards, it is the longest course on the regular PGA roster, so I thought I’d play it from the back tees, just to see precisely what it is the pros are up against. Cathy and our two other playing partners played from the forward tees, and at times they were so far up the fairway waiting for me to tee off that it sometimes felt as if I had an entire golf hole to play prior to reaching them. It is an outrageously picturesque setting, with the village of La Jolla to the south visible behind the scrim of parasailers hovering over the course and the cliffs. The scenery was welcome, given that there were no personal bests being recorded on my scorecard. It is a difficult test of golf, but it has the advantage, rare among top-flight courses, of being entirely public. It’s not cheap, but if you are a San Diego resident, the green fees are quite reasonable. This north end of La Jolla is spectacular in different ways than the south end. South is gentrified village elegance, whereas the north is cliffs, a brawny golf course and the Torrey Pines Reserve, a nature preserve that is a must for those who enjoy walking, hiking, birding or just seeing a different part of how the local ecosystem thrives when a desert landscape moving west meets up with a marine layer moving east. Our friendly and knowledgeable guide from the Lodge, whose name was Joe, led us on paths through the many different types of spiky bushes and trees, pointing out what the Indigenous tribes once used for medicines, which birds hid where, what berries were edible. At one point, he didn’t stop me when I picked a berry, though he immediately said, “That’s a $400 fine! Works for me, though. I get a cut.” The entire experience of La Jolla left me wondering if it were all real, if it actually is as heavenly as it seems. Of course, nothing is perfect. La Jolla is not cheap to visit, and to live there would be beyond the means of most. La Jolla Cove has some of the priciest real estate in America. It’s not hard to see why. Perfect climate. Not nearly as crowded as L.A. Not the same water issues as Phoenix. Good cuisine. Access to nature. Fascinating crossover vibes from south of the border. No, the truth is there’s not much to complain about in La Jolla. It’s picturesque, friendly, dramatic, laid back. And it’s full of surprises if you take the time to stand up and look around. Even if you’re on a kayak.
Lodge at Torrey Pines: Darren Edwards
Deluxe Digs If there’s one Achilles Heel to La Jolla it’s that it isn’t cheap. But the digs like the Lodge at Torrey Pines (top left) and the Pantai Inn (bottom left) are among the best in the world. And the food at A.R. Valentien (middle left) may be even better.
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An eagle eye view.
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2018-06-19 1:59 PM
WL // trade secrets
designed By
Priya Jaswal, Studio P Interiors
The Look
COZY AND COLOURFUL
There’s always something inviting about a window seat, but this little nook overlooking the trees is made doubly so thanks to designer Priya Jaswal’s thoughtful touches. A coat of Benjamin Moore’s Deep Ocean paint around the edges frames the view; custom flat-panel drapes made from Tuscan linen hang on a gold curtain rod to soften the space. Just add a book and a cup of tea, and you’ve got the ideal spot to while away the afternoon.
Francis Lai
A pop of blue makes a window seat even more appealing.
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2018-08-28 10:31 AM
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