Canadian Traveller Fall 2013 by Canadian Traveller

Traveller { SKI GUIDE: Off-piste action & powder plus }

CANADIAN

WINTER’S HERE LONG-STAY VACATIONS

Where Next? BALTIC TABLE TRUE LOCAL DINING

CRUISE BAHAMAS

IT'S BETTER BY BOAT

COOK ISLANDS PARADISE FOUND

THE REAL MEXICO COLONIAL GEMS

Contents Fall 2013

in this issue

SNAP SHOTS

Tea Rituals…Revenge Travel…Ultimate Guys Golf…Cinema At Sea… The Canadian Bucket List

LA BY PHONE Five Apps To

Unlock The Secrets Of The City Of Angels

features

CULINARY TRAVEL

No Antlers Please

ISLAND TRAVEL

Everything’s Better On A Boat

Where Next?

12.

SOUTH PACIFIC

Paradise Found: The Cook Islands Your Slice Of Paradise May Be Closer Than You Think…

COVER IMAGE

WINTER’S COMING, TIME TO HEAD SOUTH. WE’VE GOT A RUNDOWN ON SOME OF THE MOST POPULAR PLACES WHERE CANADIAN SNOWBIRDS FLOCK. PHOTO CREDIT: VISIT FLORIDA

THIS IS NOT A GOOD TIME TO REMEMBER YOU ATE A WHOLE TRAY OF RAW VEGETABLES.

Help protect yourself from travellers’ diarrhea. DUKORAL® is intended to help prevent travellers’ diarrhea caused by enterotoxigenic E. coli in adults and children 2 years of age and older. It does not treat travellers’ diarrhea once it develops. Not everyone who gets vaccinated will be fully protected; therefore, precautions to avoid contaminated food or water should be taken. Allergic reactions and side effects such as abdominal pain, diarrhea, fever, nausea and vomiting may occur. For complete product information visit www.dukoralcanada.com.

Available at your pharmacy. Now you’re good to go. Crucell Vaccines Canada, a division of Janssen Inc., 19 Green Belt Drive, Toronto, Ontario M3C 1L9 DKCA120476E © 2013 JANSSEN Inc. All trademarks used under license.

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Traveller CANADIAN

CANADIANTRAVELLER.NET EDITOR

Contents Fall 2013

Janice Strong

PUBLISHER

Brad Liski

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

THE REAL MEXICO

Jennifer Prendergast

Discover Authentic Food, Culture & History In Mexico’s Colonial Cities

ART DIRECTOR

Gail M Dubus

CONTRIBUTORS

Beatrice Ang, Steve MacNaull, Dominick & Susan Merle, Vickie Sam Paget, Melanie Reffes, Judy Waytiuk,

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Raise Your Glass & Your Fork Throughout The Caribbean

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UNITED STATES

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Winter’s Coming: Where To Go, What To See & What To Do On A Winter Long-Stay Vacation

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A CANADIAN’S GUIDE TO SKI VACATIONS

Forget the sun, a real winter vacation starts in the mountains.

Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller

Snapshots TRAVEL NEWS

MEXICO

THE BEST REVENGE Recently un-tied the knot? The Grand Velas Resorts in Riviera Maya and Riviera Nayarit invite newly-single guests, and their friends, to restore their inner harmony with Divorce Packages. The packages feature activities like yoga lessons on the beach, complimentary spa treatments, “Ladies Night Out” or “Guys Night Out”, purification rituals – even piñata bashing in honour of an ex-spouse. All-inclusive rates start at $530 per person, per night at the Grand Velas Riviera Maya (minimum five, maximum six guests); and $653 per person, per night at Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit, based on double occupancy and minimum three-night stay. www.velasresorts.com FLORIDA

THE ULTIMATE MAN-TRIP

Turnberry Isle Miami is redefining the standards of ‘man-tripping’ with the launch of its new Ultimate Guys Golf Weekend, inviting 20 friends to indulge in the golf experience of a lifetime. The package includes personalized golf amenities; professional tournament scoring, walking caddies; complimentary spa treatments; and a customized dining experience created by the resort’s Executive Chef, as well as dinner at Chef Michael Mina’s award-winning BOURBON STEAK restaurant. The all-inclusive, $100,000 package breaks down to $5,000 per guy. www.turnberryislemiami.com CANADA

CRUISE

CINEMA AT SEA In a cruise industry first, ultra-luxury Silversea Cruises has launched a complimentary service that provides streaming movies and live television news broadcasts to guests’ mobile devices aboard Silver Cloud. The service can be accessed on any Wi-Fi-enabled laptop, smartphone, tablet, or even e-book reader -anything with a browser. It includes access to an extensive library of classic and recent Academy Awardwinning feature films. www.silversea.com

Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

JAPAN

THE WAY OF TEA Context Travel expands its program in Kyoto with The Way of Tea, a new history and cultural experience that offers travellers insight into the pivotal role traditional Japanese tea ceremonies play in contemporary society. Tea scholar Randy Channell takes you through a classic Japanese tea ceremony, from first sip to dessert, showcasing the differences between formal and informal Japanese tea ceremonies and highlighting the essential aspects through interactive lessons. The Way of Tea lasts two and a half hours and is available daily. Group walks cost JPY6,500 per person. Private tours cost JPY30,000 per party. www. contexttravel.com

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM, VILAS RESORTS, TUNBERRY ISLE MIAMI, SILVERSEA CRUISES

OUR OWN BUCKET LIST: What are the destinations and activities we should experience in Canada before we die? Robin Esrock answers that question in The Great Canadian Bucket List, a collection of unique experiences that everyone can actually do. The book and accompanying website launch October 12. www.canadianbucketlist.com

Photos by Monique Beeley

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM, VILAS RESORTS, TUNBERRY ISLE MIAMI, SILVERSEA CRUISES

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CULINARY TRAVEL

Podrasuppi: the elk soup is quite tasty. Right: The Baltic: you can tell where you’re at by what you ate.

No ANTLERS PLEASE An Intrepid Couple Eats Their Way Through The Baltics

Estonia: No Antlers, Ple�e

We are in the medieval walled town of Tallinn, capital of Estonia, one of six port stops on our 10-day “Gems of the Baltic” cruise. And the elk soup (podrasuppi), served in a stone bowl with a chunk of crusty bread, is quite tasty. The strips of elk meat look “just like chicken” but have a slightly sweeter flavour. It’s a hearty serving, but for big eaters there is also ground reindeer pie, another traditional Estonian specialty. A seasoned but jaded cruiser had told me that Tallinn was a fantastic place to visit… “for about an hour and a half.” We strolled the winding, narrow cobblestone streets for the better part of a day and would have stayed longer if the ship did the same. It was a 15-minute walk from the Eurodam to Tallinn’s Town Hall Square, where we had our elk soup. The winding streets peel off from there, each one filled with boutiques, sidewalk cafes and craft shops. Toss in a castle, a palace and a church dating back to the 12th century and you wonder if that jaded cruiser really ever set foot here.

Russia: Borsch & Bears, Oh My!

Next port, St. Petersburg. No food hints needed here, the customs agent signals where you are by looking up and down at you and your passport about eight times before stamping it. Welcome to Russia. St. Petersburg has often been described as the Venice of the North and is one of the most beautiful cities on the planet. But smiles are scarce, just as they were on my first visit 25 years ago. 8

The sights, however, are dazzling – the magnificent Peterhof Palace and gardens, the world famous Hermitage Museum, the Summer Palace, Catherine’s Palace, the list goes on and on. And then there is the majestic Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood with its fascinating history in the centre of the city, perhaps the most visited site by tourists and locals alike. On the food trail, Russians are big on borsch, a cold beet soup that comes in 12 flavours, pickled vegetables, pig fat and “stooden,” the broth of cooked meat that’s refrigerated, hardened into a gel and eaten cold. Many wash this down with “kvass,” a mixture of water and pumpernickel bread fermented into less than one per cent alcohol and sold for 25 cents a glass.

Finland: The Big Chill

After a sauna and a buck-naked roll in the snow in the dead of winter, the Finns’ next passion is sautéed reindeer with mashed potatoes and lingonberries. “We roll in the snow because it’s good for our skin and circulation,” said the spry 60-something owner of an 81-hectare farm we visited. “And we eat reindeer just because it tastes so good.” After our farm lunch, we visited Porvoo, a tiny country village dating back to 1346, which was a bit touristy but cute, and then drove to downtown Helsinki, the capital city with about 600,000 residents. It surprised us to learn that Finland prices were almost 20 per cent higher than the rest of the European nations. The Finns travel to Estonia and even Sweden for bargains. Main Helsinki attractions include the sparkling white Lutheran Cathedral, largest in all of Europe, the Rock Church carved into a hill and a nice market and restaurant area on the waterfront. While the Finns are reserved and friendly, they are no slouches at the dinner table. In addition to reindeer, they like moose, a squeaky cheese called “leipajuusto” made with rich milk from cows that have recently calved, and a desert called “mammi,” a combination of water, rye flour and molasses that looks a bit offputting but is supposed to be good for whatever ails you.

Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

in the countryside

PHOTO: DOminick & SuSan merle, JOHan Willner/imagebank.SWeDen.Se

By Dominick & Susan Merle

F THAT’S ELK in my soup, this must be Estonia. One can get a bit disoriented on a cruise ship after charging down the gangplank each morning and entering another new port in another country. “Well, there’s an old saying that you are what you eat,” said a smiling Gerard O’Reilly, the culinary manager on Holland America’s Eurodam cruise ship. “In this case, you can tell where you’re at by what you ate.”

PHOTO: Dominick & Susan Merle, Johan Willner/imagebank.sweden.se

Sweden: What’s That Smell?

Who would have thought that those serious Swedes would take the top prize for all of the strange food eaten in Europe, and even challenged those daring Asians? The dish is called “surstromming,” and it is arguably the world’s foulest smelling fish. Some claim the odor rises three floors up in an apartment building and you need a broomstick to keep the drooling cats away. Sunstromming is fermented herring – really fermented herring, sometimes for as long as a year – covered in salt and brine and stacked in barrels, leaving a little air space so it doesn’t explode. In some rural areas, it’s buried under the house (they grow accustomed to the stench.) You can buy some of this stuff in pressurized cans but if packed too tightly the cans can also explode. From what I’ve heard, it’s as bad as it smells, but many Swedes have acquired the taste and wash it down with a shot of alcohol or aquavit. Graciously declining a sampling of sunstromming, we visited Stockholm’s Old Town (Gamla Stan), one of the largest neighbourhoods of 16th-century buildings in Europe, the Royal Palace and several museums, including one dedicated to the pop/rock Swedish singing group ABBA.

Germany: Our Wurst Is Best

“We have no strange foods in Germany,” our tour guide responded as we docked in Rostock, population 200,000. “All our food is delicious.” Fair enough. We settled for a bratwurst, sauerkraut and potatoes, then headed to the town square for our walking tour. Several pedestrian streets branch out from the square. By noon they were filled with cruise ship passengers and it was difficult to find a seat at any of the outdoor café/restaurants. Street musicians and entertainers kept popping up as the crowds increased. We had chosen Rostock as a tranquil break instead of taking the three-hour train ride to Berlin, which we would do the next day, but by mid-day made a beeline back to the Eurodam. The Holland America ship was an 11-decker with all the trimmings – seven restaurants, spa, casino, saunas and swimming pools, main theatre and workshop classes and lectures throughout the day. A few guests never even left the ship during our port calls. There were about 2,000 cruisers aboard, 60 per cent from the U.S., 20 per cent from Canada, and 1,000 crew members. Cabins and suites were well appointed and service was fast and efficient throughout our cruise. Now it was time for our final port.

Denmark: Kickstart Your Day!

We arrived in Copenhagen at dawn – just in time for Happy Hour. The Danes like to start the day with a drink called “Gammel Dansk,”a strong bitter liquor made of 29 herbs, spices and flour. The recipe is a state secret, but actually there are a number of variations. While it is a potent drink, the Danes believe in its health benefits and sip it with chunks of rye bread. And so, beginning with our elk soup in Estonia, we concluded with a Gammel Dansk – to go.

If You Go... ✺ We flew KLM from Montreal to Copenhagen via Amsterdam. ✺ Visas are required for Russia if you sightsee on your own; but not

on organized tours.

✺ Denmark (Krone), Russia (Ruble) and Sweden (Krona) have their

own currencies. Other countries use Euros.

Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller

ISLANDS

EVERYTHING'S BETTER oN A BoAT A Bespoke Look At The Bahamas From Sea Level Text and photos by Steve MacNaull

Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller

Captain Greg: everything is better on a boat.

aptain Greg Marlo leans back, glass of Shiraz in hand, and declares: “Everything is better on a boat. Food and wine, the scenery, the company, sleep and even sex, especially sex.” We blush and take his word for it. But by the end of the week aboard the 12-metre catamaran Believe through the islands and waters of the Bahamas’ Abaco Sea we can vouch for all of Captain Greg’s claims. On board there’s only my wife and I, another couple and Captain Greg, who's also doing double duty as chef on this vacation dubbed “Cays to Paradise”. We chose this type of holiday because it’s the exact opposite of a typical week at a big all-inclusive resort. Cruising on the Believe is like having a private three-bedroom, two-bathroom floating villa. “It’s unique and customized and personalized,” says Captain Greg. “More and more people are choosing this bespoke way of seeing the world.” While it may sound expensive, elitist and exclusive, it's actually affordable and accessible. A week of specialty cruising starts at $800 per person based on a group sharing a three- or four-bedroom catamaran. Flights, food, booze and gas are all extra. We begin our adventure at Marsh Harbour on Great Abaco island where Moorings Boats has its Bahamas headquarters. Captain Greg has a Torontobased business called Yacht Solutions that hooks people up with customized catamaran and sailboat vacations using the internationally renowned Moorings and sister company Sunsail. If you’re an experienced sailor or motor boater you can skipper your own boat or you can abdicate all responsibility and book your ride complete with captain and chef. While we had Captain Greg himself on our voyage, most boats are booked out

A catamaran is the perfect platform for exploring the gorgeous bays of the Bahamas.

with Bahamian captains and chefs who provide local expertise and atmosphere both on the water and in the kitchen. Having a captain and chef means you can loll on the deck while the navigation, driving, meals, snacks, drinks and dishes are all taken care of. Our tradition became popping a bottle of champagne while leaving every port for our own exclusive sail away parties followed by more lounging on the deck as the turquoise water rushed past beneath us and the sail snapped above. Not to say we weren’t put to work occasionally. We all took turns winching to raise the main sail. And I had to make sure to buy ice at every port to keep the cooler full of beer and wine cold. The cooler had to be utilized because the fridge was stuffed with all the ingredients for the breakfasts, lunches and dinners we enjoyed on the Believe’s aft deck outdoor dining table. The itinerary was flexible, but designed to hit the highlights of the Abacos, the Bahamas’ most northerly chain of islands. The first stop was Man-O-War Cay, population 350, where there’s only a few streets, some boatbuilding and maintenance yards and a beautiful empty beach on the Atlantic Ocean side. ManO-War is a dry island, meaning no liquor is sold there. However, you can BYOB so we packed some sauvignon blanc on ice to enjoy with our blackened fish lunch at Dock N Dine, a rustic outdoor eatery perched on pilings above the harbour.

Day two and the leg from Man-OWar to Great Guana Cay is when the voyage seems to really hit its stride. The sun is blazing, the tunes on the stereo are cranked and we’re zipping along at six knots (10 kilometres an hour) under two billowing sails. This is when the catamaran ‘giggles’ in a trifecta of wind, sail and water vibration. Giggling ourselves when we arrive at Great Guana, we make a beeline for Nipper’s, the bar famous for its cliff-top perch and lethal Nipper Tripper rum concoction. Proprietor Johnny Roberts, the great grandson times 10 of the first white man to step foot on the island, will only tell me it’s a secret recipe of four rums and fruit juices whipped into frozen perfection. We sip the signature drink from plastic cups under an umbrella at a multi-coloured picnic table before descending the steep stairs to the deserted beach for a dip in the ocean. Next stop Treasure Cay for another idyllic swim stop at Coco Beach and dinner at the Treasure Cay Resort's Spinnaker restaurant. From Treasure Cay it’s onto Elbow Cay, home to cute, little Hope Town, a candy cane striped lighthouse and Tahiti Beach, which is considered the best strip of sand in the Abacos. In between there were stops to swim from the catamaran and snorkel in the clear shallow water to spot a multitude of shells, sea urchins, sand dollars and plump starfish.

If You Go... ✺ WestJet and Air Canada fly from Toronto and Montreal to Nassau where you can hop on

SkyBahamas for the short flight to Marsh Harbour and Moorings headquarters for the start of your sailing holiday. ✺ Toronto-based Yacht Solutions can charter your group a catamaran (sail-motor combination or motor only) or sailboat from Moorings or Sunsail for vacations not only in the Bahamas’ Abaco islands, but also in other great sailing destinations around the world such as The Virgin Islands, Mexico, Seychelles, Thailand, Tonga and the Mediterranean. ✺ TheYachtSolution.com; Morrings.com. General information at DestinationAbaco.net Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller

Cruising One Foot Island, Aitutaki.

PARADISE 12

Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller

SOUTH PACIFIC

The

COOK ISLANDS Your Slice Of Paradise May Be Closer Than You Thinkâ&#x20AC;Ś By Vickie Sam Paget

FOUND Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller

UCKED AWAY BETWEEN Fiji and Tahiti in the very heart of the South Pacific, lie the 15 divinely beautiful atolls, cays and volcanic islands that make up the tropical paradise that is the Cook Islands. Look no further: this is paradise found. We’re talking picture-perfect translucent waters, stretches of sun-drenched sand and smiling, happy locals. And the great news is that paradise really isn’t as far away as you may think. The Cooks are conveniently located on the eastern side of the international date line, which means that they are in the same time zone as Hawaii. When you consider that, the Cooks suddenly don’t feel so distant after all. In fact, the Cooks are only nine-anda-half hours from L.A. And as Air New Zealand’s weekly non-stop service to Rarotonga is conveniently timed so that you depart on a Sunday evening and arrive in the Cooks on Monday morning, you can even snooze your way to paradise.

Get Your Bearings

Seek Natural Remedies: Take a Medicinal Nature Walk with Pa, the Cook Islands’ Medicine Man. The garden-to-plate dining on offer at The Plantation House.

Scootering around Rarotonga.

Rarotonga, the capital and the main island, is located in the south of this gem-like cluster of islands, as are Aitutaki and Atiu, the two islands that tempt the majority of tourists with their white sand shores.

Char�matic Rarotonga

Dominated by a once-mighty volcanic pyramid that has been worn down by

A TASTE OF PARADISE A RECIPE FOR TRADITIONAL IKA MATA, COURTESY OF ROYALE TAKITUMU, RAROTONGA. METHOD 1. Cut the fish fillet into small

2 ripe tomatoes ½ a green pepper ½ a red pepper sImonE Van dEn BErG/sHuTTErsToCk

½ a yellow pepper 1 cucumber, medium size 1 cup fresh lemon juice ½ an onion 3 cloves garlic 1 cup coconut cream Handful fresh coriander 14

Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

cubes (2 cm x 2cm). 2. Dice vegetables in to smaller cubes. 3. Put the fish cubes in a strainer and let cold water run over them for two to three minutes. 4. Put the fish in a glass bowl and add half a cup of water with two teaspoons of salt. 5. Let the fish sit in the salted water for five minutes and then drain the salted water. Do not add extra salt.

6. Cover the fish with fresh

lemon juice. 7. Let the fish marinate in the

lemon juice for 30 minutes or more. Place in fridge until ready to add the coconut cream and vegetables. 8. Pour the lemon juice out and add the diced vegetables to the marinated fish. 9. Add fresh coconut cream and stir until the fish is evenly covered. 10. Season with white pepper and fresh coriander.

Cook Islands PHoTos: Cook Islands TourIsm

INGREDIENTS 2 to 3 pieces of fresh filleted fish – yellow fin tuna or wahoo works well

Find sublime seclusion in a hammock in Aitutaki. Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller 15

time to a range of peaks and ridges, the lush island of Rarotonga is the cultural hub of the Cook Islands. The 32-kilometre circumference of Rarotonga is surrounded by a sparkling blue lagoon and a fringe of pearly white sand that’s lined with swaying palms. With not a traffic light in sight, the pace in Rarotonga is a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life in Canada. And getting around the island is certainly interesting. The island bus travels both clockwise and counter-clockwise around a road that circles the island, passing mammas and papas on tiny scooters – sometimes with more than one chubby toddler clinging on for dear life!

Adventurous Atiu

Atiu Island, also known as Enuamanu (‘land of the birds’) lies 187 kilometres north east of Rarotonga. The third-largest island in the Cooks is over eight million years old. It’s also an ecologist’s dream and a magnet for the adventurer. On the edge of the island’s flat-topped central plateau you’ll find Atiu Villas, the island’s most developed vacation spot. You’ll also find 28 untouched beaches that are almost unvisited – except by those seeking a beautiful, secluded spot.

Beauti�l Aitutaki

It’s believed that the islanders on Aitutaki are descended from Ru, a seafaring warrior who settled there with his four wives. Arriving during a full moon he was captivated by the reflections upon this vast tranquil lagoon and named his landing point O’otu, which means ‘full moon’. Today Aitutaki is renowned for its extraordinary natural beauty and relaxed pace of life. Travellers come in search of the palm-fringed beaches that have been luckily spared from mass tourism.

Romantic Souls

When it comes to sparking the fires of romance, the heady mix of delicious seclusion and outstanding beauty on offer in the Cook Islands can prove to be a pyrotechnic’s dream. Love birds flock to Aitutaki.

Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

101

Cook Islands

GETTING THERE: Air New Zealand operates a weekly non-stop direct flight to Rarotonga from Los Angeles. The nine-and-a-half hour flight departs on Sunday evening and arrives on Monday morning. The return flight departs Rarotonga on Saturday evening just before midnight and arrives back into LA early Sunday afternoon. Alternately, you can combine a Cook Island vacation with a New Zealand or Australia itinerary. TIME: There is just a three-hour time difference with the west coast of Canada. CURRENCY: The Cook Islands’ unit of currency is the New Zealand dollar,

supplemented by Cook Islands notes and coins minted for local use. These unique local coins and notes are not negotiable outside the Cook Islands, but they are keenly sought by collectors worldwide. Currency is easy to obtain via your local bank or through ATM in the Cook Islands.

BUSINESS HOURS: Most stores close by noon on Saturdays and are closed all

day Sunday.

CLOTHING: Although the dress code is informal, brief attire is not encouraged when visiting the town or villages. Nude or topless sunbathing will cause offence. A light sweater is advised for the cooler evenings. LANGUAGE: Cook Islands’ Maori is the local language, but everyone also speaks English. Here are a few local words to try while you’re in the Cooks: Kia Orana (hello), Aera ra (goodbye), Meitaki (thank you), ae (yes), kare (no), tane (man), vaine (woman), manea (pretty/handsome), mataroa (happy), kai (food), teia ra (today), apopo (tomorrow), ra (sun), marama (moon). LOCAL AIR TRANSPORT: Air Rarotonga operates regular services to the southern group of islands, including Aitutaki. One-day lagoon cruise excursions to Aitutaki are also available. Services to the northern group islands are infrequent, so check with Air Rarotonga well before you plan to go. Charter flights can be arranged with in-flight catering and experienced tour guides. To save some money, Air Rarotonga flights can be booked in conjunction with Air New Zealand tickets. DRIVING: It’s not too difficult to drive in the Cook Islands as there is only one road around the main island of Rarotonga, which is roughly 32 kilometres in circumference and has no stop lights! Additionally, the smaller island of Aitutaki is easily navigated. Cars and scooters are available for hire. Vehicles drive on the left hand side of the road and the speed limit is 40 km per hour in the town and villages and 50 km per hour outside of the populated areas. The motor scooter speed limit is 40 km per hour if you’re not wearing a safety helmet. Drivers of all vehicles are required to have a current Cook Islands drivers’ licence, which can be obtained from the police station in Avarua at a cost of NZD $20 on presentation of your own valid licence. If you hire a motor scooter, there is an additional charge of NZD $5 for a compulsory practical test. Your rental vehicle provider will advise you of the regulations.

wake up in FI�I

and discover your paradise for as little as...

1819*

Your 12 night vacation package includes: • Return air from Los Angeles on Fiji Airways • All ground transfers • 12 nights in an Ocean-view Bure at the Fiji Hideaway Resort with full breakfast daily

Call us at Boomerang Tours (888) 722-4212 or visit us online at www.boomerangtours.ca *From Prices reflect Fiji Airways “Buy One/Get One 50% off” special promotion valid for sale till 30SEP2013 Terms and conditions: Prices are per person based on two people traveling together, do not include air taxes of approximately $150.00 per person and are subject to change without notice. Valid for Sales: 01SEP13 to 29SEP13. Valid for Travel:01NOV13 to 30NOV13 and16JAN14 to 31MAR14. Package may be surcharged for travel in 2014. $81CAD per person per day Lunch and Dinner Add-on Includes: (1) Daily lunch from the lunch specials menu or a 2 course lunch from the All Day Menu and (2) Daily dinner from the dinner specials menu or a 3 course dinner from the All Day Menu. Full terms and conditions at www.boomerangtours.ca. Boomerang Tours 1257 rue Guy, Montreal, QC H3H 2K5. Permits : Ontario 50014991, BC 3522-1, Quebec 702734 | F5204

WAYS TO MAKE THE MOST OF ISLAND LIFE

Stamp Your Passport: Visit Aitutaki’s One Foot Island, where you’ll enjoy the incredible blue lagoon and a mouth watering beach barbecue, as well as a chance to receive Aitutaki’s trademark One Foot passport stamp.

pearls. Black pearls come from the black lipped mother of pearl shell that is indigenous to the atolls of the Cook Islands and French Polynesia. However, these beauties are anything but black – they actually reflect a rainbow of hues.

Love Some Lagoon Time: There’s no shortage of bathing options in the Cooks, with Rarotonga itself enjoying 32 kilometres of pristine blue lagoon – that’s the full circumference of the island.

Hook A Line: With both deep sea and fly-fishing available, there are plenty of opportunities to land a big one.

Dance The Night Away: A highlight of many people’s vacation, an ‘Island Night’ is an opportunity to immerse yourself completely in a spectacle of Cook Islands’ dance, music and costume. You’ll learn to dress like a local, dance like a local – and even play the drums like a local!

Pick Up A Pearl: Diamonds may be a girl’s best friend, but in the Cooks it’s all about the black

Travel Like A Local: Hop onto the Rarotonga bus. There’s no danger of getting lost as the buses are clearly marked ‘clockwise’and ‘anticlockwise’, and every trip is an adventure.

Pick Up A Pearl: Diamonds may be a girl’s best friend, but in the Cooks it’s all about the black pearls.

Feast Like A Local: Check out the garden-toplate dining on offer at The Plantation House, a beautifully restored colonial house in Rarotonga. The residents of this family home, Louie and Minar, will give you a tour of their gardens before you tuck into a delicious organic feast.

Relax And Recharge: With on-island treatments ranging from extreme body detoxes to coconut-infused body wraps, the Cook Islands are sure to melt your cares away.

Seek Natural Remedies: Take a Medicinal Nature Walk with Pa, the Cook Islands’ Medicine Man. Pa has been trekking the mountains since he was four-years-old, when his grandmother sent him to gather leaves and herbs for her traditional healing remedies.

Get Some Island Style: A visit to Tav’s Cook Islands Resort Wear should definitely be on the agenda. After all, this is where Kate Middleton gets her island wear! After catching a glimpse of the gorgeous hand printed fabrics on offer, a custom-made dress is sure to be on the cards.

Traveller Canadian

le Availaibtal! In Dig Pacific Yachting JUNE 2013

Traveller

Moana Sands Beachfront Hotel & Villas, Rarotonga offers the perfect island escape and provides comfortable spacious Beachfront Studios or 2 Bedroom Beachfront Villas each offering spectacular ocean views.

{ ski guide: Off piste action & powder plus }

Canadian

Winter’s Winter Winter’ s here long stay vacations

Where Next Baltic taBle True LocaL dining

cruise Bahamas iTs beTTer boa by boaT

cook islands paradice found

the real mexico COlOnial gems

Visit

P: + (682) 26189 Fax: + (682) 22189 18

Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

E: beach@moanasands.co.ck W: www.moanasands.co.ck

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Paddling with passion: the highlight of the Cooks’ event calendar has to be ‘Vaka Eiva’, the country’s annual outrigger canoe racing festival.

Sparks undoubtedly fly for couples seeking adventure on Rarotonga’s safari tours, hikes and paddle board trips, while more relaxed love birds flock to Aitutaki to unwind on its white sand beaches and bask in the sun. Both islands also provide excellent spots to tie the knot or renew your vows, and many resorts provide the services of a coordinator who can help to plan an unforgettable day. Getting hitched in the Cooks is hasslefree, as couples only need to have proper documentation and be in destination for three business days prior to the big day in order to receive a marriage licence.

Paddling In Parad�e

Traditional island culture takes the spotlight each November, when paddlers and spectators gather in the Cooks for ‘Vaka Eiva’, the country’s annual outrigger canoe racing festival. This is the event’s 10th year, and the weeklong festivities kick off on November 22 at Avarua Wharf, Rarotonga with the traditional ‘Blessing of Canoes’ ceremony. The ‘Charity Boiler Swim’ – where contestants swim around the shipwreck of Maitai, which is known as ‘The Boiler’ – draws a big crowd. And there are plenty of off-water activities too, so check out the Art by the Lagoon paddle exhibition,

the traditional canoe carving displays and drumming and dance performances. The week then closes with the most entertaining event of the festival, the ‘Muri Sprints’, where teams participate in 500metre sprint races at gorgeous Muri Lagoon.

What’s Not To Love?

Yes, it all sounds so heavenly, but – as always when you’re choosing a holiday hot spot – it’s important to consider what may be missing from a destination…

The answer to that is simple: traffic lights, big-brand fast food restaurants and bland chain hotels. What will you find in their place? Unfathomably blue lagoons, white sandy beaches and friendly locals. Add to that the fact that there are no buildings that rise higher than the tallest palm tree, and it’s easy to see why you will not have to search far to find some peace and tranquility on the Cook Islands... Peace and tranquility will find you.

THE WINNING COMBINATION OF LUXURY AND LOCATION. ROYALE TAKITUMU – WHERE OUR EXPERIENCE MAKES YOUR EXPERIENCE. cook island luxury

royaletakitumu.com

Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller

MEXICO

THE REAL

MEXICO

Discover Authentic Food, Culture & History In Mexico’s Colonial Cities by Judy waytiuk

San Miguel Arcangel Church, San Miguel Allende. 20 Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

Zai aragon/ShutterStock.com

HENEVER I TELL friends I’m going to spend time in one of Mexico’s colonial cities, their eyes widen in a peculiar combination of horror and awe. They fear travelling outside protected tourism resort areas isn’t safe, though in truth, it’s no more risky – and is likely much less so – than our own cities. But they also envy the experience, because resort beaches, while delightfully sybaritic, offer little genuine exotic culture, glorious history, stunning architecture and real folk art and crafts. The colonial cities – many of them World Heritage Sites – are the places to go for that side of Mexico. They’re harder to get to but they score big points with discerning travellers.

Bigger cities like Yucatan’s Merida (the White City), west coast Oaxaca, and inland Morelia and Zacatecas all have nearby airports with regular flights connecting mostly through Mexico City, and shelter perfectly-preserved cores within 21st century urban sprawl. Huge town squares cobbled with centuries-old stones are surrounded by equally venerable architecture and crowned by showpiece, massive cathedrals. Museums from archeological to art pepper these areas, local markets are crammed with traditional food, crafts and clothing, and local people fill the areas with their everyday lives. Basic English is commonly spoken. In Oaxaca, the central square (zocalo) is closed to vehicles, fringed by busy cafes (fried grasshoppers are local delicacies), and outdoor musicians play on Sunday afternoons. The 18th-century cathedral sits on the north side, the Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace) on the south. Iglesia de Santo Domingo, once a Dominican monastery, faces the zocalo, and Oaxaca’s oldest church, Iglesia de San Juan de Dios built in 1521, is a few blocks southwest. As in other colonial cities, the list of museums here is long; top-rated ones include the Museo Regional de Oaxaca (Regional Museum of Oaxaca) and Museo de Arte Contemporaneo de Oaxaca (Museum of Oaxacan Contemporary Art). In Morelia, the city centre’s baroque pink stone architecture’s ornate and almost excruciatingly-detailed, its piece de resistance the twin-towered cathedral that supposedly took more than a century to complete. For blocks around the cathedral on the zocalo, ornate architecture runs riot, housing plenty of museums including the Museo de Arte Colonial, Museo de la Mascara (mask museum), Museo del Estado (State Museum), and Museo Regional Michoacano (Regional Museum of the State of Michoacan). At the colonial district’s edge, El Acueducto (aqueduct) stretches for over a mile, dozens of colonial arches alongside a busy commuter road. Pinker and fancier is Zacatecas, an old silver mining city, (others include Queretaro, San Miguel, Guanajuato, San Luis Potosi, and Alamos – all of them northwest of Mexico City); the distinctive stone is quarried here, and Zacatecas has been dubbed Ciudad Rosa – the Pink City. Thanks to wealthy mine owners in earlier centuries (most mines are now closed), these cities boast even more complex 22 Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

architectural facades. The Plaza de Armas and cathedral here are flanked by the Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace), Residencia de Gobernadores (Governor's Residence), and Palacio de la Mala Noche (Palace of the Bad Night). Museo Rafael Coronel has more masks than Morelia’s museum, Museo Francisco Goita houses local artists, and Museo de Pedro Colonel is one of Mexico’s best art museums. Outside the colonial centre, ride the cable car (Teleferico) to Cerro de la Bufa, the mountain on the city’s far side, after taking the little train into Mina El Eden, the old silver mine with its entrance near the cable car station. Puebla, Mexico’s fourth-biggest city, is probably its most visibly Spanish.

Ornate architecture runs riot.

There’s heavy-duty history here – locals won a battle against Napoleon’s troops in 1862, though the French did take over the city a year later. This is the home of fine Talavera pottery you’ll see everywhere, truly-Mexican foods like Mole and Chile Poblano, and the Volkswagon Beetle; this is where all current Beetles are made. The huge main square, with the city’s massive cathedral, tallest belltowers and biggest pipe organ in Mexico, is crammed with music, performers and people on weekends, and dozens more churches and cathedral domes dot the city skyline. Beside the cathedral, the Casa de La Cultura houses Biblioteca Palafoxiana, the Americas’ oldest library. Other larger, colonial-cored cities (Queretaro, Taxco, San Luis Potosi,

Aguascalientes, Cuernavaca, Guanajuato, Campeche, Veracruz, Villahermosa, and Chihuahua) are well worth the work involved to get there. If they don’t have their own small airports, they can be reached by obtaining rental cars on arrival, and driving; the road system in Mexico has been nicely upgraded in recent decades, but travellers should carry cool drinks in their vehicles and pocketfuls of pesos should be on hand for toll highways (maxipistes).

Small Is Beautiful

On the flip side of big and bold are smaller, still highly-traditional colonial settlements, where Spanish and indigenous blend into more subtle visual flavours. Patzcuaro, a 45-minute drive from Morelia, is marked by its Purepecha and Tarasco native history and makes a perfect base for exploring Lake Patzquaro’s traditional island of Janitzio as well as other colonial villages nearby, all of which practice specific crafts: guitar-making, pottery, copperwork. Patzcuaro’s central Plaza de Quiroga is surrounded by historic buildings, and occasional trinket shops. Just east, in front of the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Salud (the town’s patron saint), an open-air daily market sells local crafts. A block north, La Plaza Chica hosts the town’s daily local market with everything from food to herbal medicines, and small cafes offer real Mexican food, not the Tex-Mex version common in resort areas. The Museo de Artes Populares (popular arts museum) south of the Basilica, is said to be the site of the first university in the Americas, founded in 1540. The Casa de los Onze Patios (house of eleven courtyards) a couple of blocks southeast, once a convent, now is filled with higher-end art and craft outlets. Little-known colonial towns like Tuxtla Gutierrez, Comitan and San Cristobal de las Casas in Chiapas state, Cholula near Puebla, or Alamos (another silver mining city), are not as easy to reach as the bigger cities with their airports, and English is frequently a little-known third language in these more remote spots (after the local indigenous language and Spanish). Hotels are usually within easy walking distance of colonial centres, and range from chains like Holiday Inn, Best Western, and Marriott to local inns. With less expensive chains, local quality may vary from usual cookiecutter standards – which can often mean they’re far more charming. They can

Judy Waytiuk, Morelia, Shutterstock.com

Go Big, Go Baroque, Go Native

1 2 exploring mexico’s coloniAl cities reveAls genUine cUltUre, glorioUs history, stUnning ArchitectUre And reAl folk Art And crAfts.

Opposite page: Ornate architecture runs riot. 1. Pink architecture of Zacatecas. 2. Morelia’s piece de resistance: its cathedral. 3. Fried grasshoppers anyone? 4. Local markets crammed with traditional food. 5. Morelia’s mile-long El Acueducto.

Judy Waytiuk, morelia, ShutterStock.com

Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller 23

STREET

SCENES

EVERYDAY LIFE IS AN EVER-EVOLVING SPECTACLE IN MEXICO’S COLONIAL CITIES. WALK THE STREETS AND ENJOY STREET FOOD, RELIGIOUS PROCESSIONS, SHOPPING – EVEN VENDORS SELLING THE LOCAL BREW FROM A DONKEY.

Judy Waytiuk, morelia, conSeJo turiStoco de San miguel de allende

also be ludicrously inexpensive ($40 for a Best Western double in Cholula, less than $60 for the Holiday Inn Suites in Tuxtla Gutierrez). But local hotels can offer far more enthralling options – though during some holidays and festivals, they book up fast with vacationing Mexicans. Some, like Oaxaca’s 16th-century, 16-room Parador San Agostin, are converted colonial buildings that fairly drip history: high, wooden-beamed ceilings, Spanish-style grillwork and colourful courtyards. Small, traditional hotels like this one, or Casa del Refugio in Patzquaro, can start at about $50 a night. Travellers who stay in one of these will come home with loads of travel bragging rights (mine revolves around the friendly ghost at the Meson de Jobito in Zacatecas. For real.) 24 Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

Judy Waytiuk

MEXICO

Morelia’s cathedral – a century in the making.

For the Not-So-Adventurous

To dip an experimental toe into colonial Mexican cities, many people first head for more Americanized versions where they can feel both safe and comfortable until they get a little more adventurous and have a bit more conversational Spanish under their belts. Over the past 30 years or so, San Miguel de Allende has morphed from a quiet traditional city into a North American artists, retirees and expatriates colony. One of the silver mining cities, it’s still got the feel of a colonial city, combined with enough of the usual North American creature comforts that this is often the first real colonial city North Americans visit. Art schools, Spanish language schools, plenty of good hotels, and loads of pricey

And once these spots have been sampled, even more timid travellers will want to grab phrasebooks and head for the colonial frontiers, Mexican-style. boutique shops fill in the gaps between the patches of colonial architecture, museums and galleries scattered around the main square. But because it’s been Americanized, it can be disappointing for those who really want the real thing. Similarly, the once-small craft village of Tlaquepaque (Tla-Kay-Pa-Kay), buried inside the massive metropolis of Guadalajara (Mexico’s secondbiggest city), has become a tony, trendy, touristy, pricey boutique shopping and

dining area. It no longer genuinely reflects colonial history as do other well-preserved and less-trodden cities, but it still looks colonial, and is worth a stroll, a shopping trip and a meal if you’re in the neighbourhood. And once these spots have been sampled, even more timid travellers will want to grab phrasebooks and head for the colonial frontiers, Mexican-style. They may even learn to love fried grasshoppers. I did. Sort of. With lots of salsa. Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller 25

CARIBBEAN

THE CARIBBEAN

CUISINE ROUND-UP Raise Your Glass & Your Fork Throughout The Caribbean By Melanie Reffes

VERYONE GOES TO the Caribbean for the beaches, right? Well, that and the warm weather and neverending sunshine. But you have to eat when you’re there and the Caribbean has some of the best food-inspired destinations in the world. Our annual round-up of Canadians’ favourite Caribbean destinations takes a culinary turn in 2013. Enjoy!

Cr�y For Conch

With the only conch (pronounced conk) farm in the world, it’s no wonder the Turks and Caicos Islands host the annual Conch Festival that salutes the seafood 26 Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

delicacy in every way imaginable. Celebrating its tenth anniversary this year on November 30, conch-etition at the islands’ premier event invites creative chefs to vie for the ‘best in show’ prize awarded by a panel of hungry judges. In the rustic Blue Hills neighbourhood of Providenciales, a mouth-watering array of conch concoctions from fritters, salads and chowders to ceviche and crepes aim to please while conch-philes are entertained with the conch blowing demonstrations, conch knocking competitions, fritter eating contests and the sounds of lively bands. “For Canadian foodies,” says Ralph Higgs, director tourism and self-proclaimed conch connoisseur, “the Conch Festival is

a must because it is a celebration of our national symbol, staple in our diet and one of our primary economic exports.“ www.conchfestival.com Originally from Toronto, John MacDonald knows a good conch when he tastes one. As the owner of the Da Conch Shack, he’s also one of the island’s most enthusiastic conch converts. “Conch is the real deal here and Da Conch Shack is its most famous purveyor,” he says with his feet in the sand at the water’s edge. “In addition to being tasty, conch has healthful properties that extend to virility, which is why we encourage honeymooners to try a conch ‘pistol’ or part of the conch's anatomy celebrated for its vigour-enhancing properties.”

To Dine For

In a nutshell, Grenadians love to eat. From the national dish called oil-down, a scrumptious stew made with breadfruit, spinach, coconut milk and salted meat, to seafood perfectly prepared on open fires, there is no shortage of edible

goodies on the Spice Island. In the picturesque fishing town of Gouyave, 45 minutes north of the capital city St. George’s and the proud hometown of the 2012 Olympic gold medalist Kirani James, Friday Fish Festival is deliciously inviting with chefs lining the streets with their grills, fryers and steamers and peckish tourists feasting on shrimp kebabs, jerk marlin, barbecued snapper, lobster poached in pungent garlic and conch that is known locally as ‘lambie‘ by the fishermen who caught it just hours before. From 6 p.m. to after midnight, Fish Friday is also a favourite of locals like Edwin Frank who, when he’s not stirring

his own pot of oil-down or showing visitors around the island, is extolling Grenada’s culinary virtues from his desk at the Grenada Board of Tourism. “Every Friday night, locals and visitors mingle in an atmosphere where the common denominator is the consumption of a delectable range of seafood,” he says with his infectious enthusiasm and Grenadian formality. ”In addition to fish, there are other dishes that are equally delicious such as fried coo coo or breadfruit, roast bakes and fry bakes and as added quality to this weekly experience, drummers, steel band players and disc jockeys bring a cultural component to those at the Festival.” Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller 27

sHuTTersTocK.com

Beside the aphrodisiac effects of the gastropod’s private parts, devotees of the iconic hut on the beach also clamour for the conch salad drizzled with lime juice, golden brown fritters that pair wonderfully well with an icy Turk’s Head beer and the awesome views of the passing pelicans. www.conchshack.tc, www.turksandcaicostourism.com

“Conch is the real deal here and Da Conch Shack is its most famous purveyor,” says John MacDonald.

A tip for visitors: arrive early, buy a few small portions from a variety of stands in order to sample every dish that catches your fancy and enjoy at one of the picnic tables placed on the street while the rhythms of Grenada fill the fragrant night air. November 22 and 23 Grenada once more plays host to the much loved and highly competitive Caribbean Rum & Beer Festival. During the two days, rum and beer companies set up an array of stalls offering samples of some of the finest rum and beer products produced in the world. www.grenadagrenadines.com

Simply Scilly

Take the road to Island Harbour, turn east until you see the sign that says ‘Scilly Cay’ and then wave to the boat captain who will whisk you to the other side. For a small island, Anguilla rivals the best in the world with boundless strands of sandy beaches and yes, lobsters that are sublimely spiced, split in two and grilled to perfection. Tantalizing taste buds from around the world, dining on Scilly Cay is also a rite of passage for every voracious tourist worth his (or her) sea salt.

MAKE THIS AT HOME

VooDoo Juice 1 oz each pineapple, banana, coconut and citrus rum ½ oz dark rum* 3 oz cranberry juice 3 oz pineapple juice Fill a large glass with ice. Add the pineapple, banana, coconut and citrus rums. Add cranberry and pineapple juice. Top with dark rum. Raise the glass and make a toast! * When available Cruzan rums are the first choice, but any flavoured rum will do the trick. courtesy www.bolongobay.com 28 Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

1 ⁄2

Lorded over by Sandra and Eudoxie Wallace, Scilly Cay has no electricity, which means the food is fresh and pina coladas are not on the menu because blenders are not on the island. Sea grape leaves line the platters that are overflowing with lobster, petite lobsters known as crayfish and chicken along with tasty sides like warm garlic bread and a savoury pasta salad. “We have a very popular secret sauce that is my own recipe,” said Sandra Wallace, co-owner. “Our motto is simply the best, because that is what we offer.” Legendary for Eudoxie’s potent rum punch, the Cay is also about funky reggae bands and sunny skies. “When I want to feel like I’m on vacation, I go to Scilly

WWW.mermaIdPIcTuresandPrInTInG.com, GBT

THE CARIBBEAN HAS SOME OF THE BEST FOODINSPIRED DESTINATIONS IN THE WORLD

Cay,” smiles Trudy Nixon, ex-pat from the UK, lobster aficionado and marketing representative for the spectacular Ultimacy Villa. “The colourful boats and fishermen make me feel like I should relax,” she says posing at the Harbour. Also a favourite of the tourism minister, Scilly Cay is open only on Wednesday and Sunday. “There is no better way to spend your Sunday afternoon than sipping a special Scilly Cay brew and enjoying crayfish,” said Haydn Hughes, minister tourism. ”These are indigenous to Anguilla and so delicious, you’ll be tempted to eat them with your fingers.” Make a reservation (264-235-5000), pack snorkel gear and a big appetite and plan on staying all day. www.scillcayanguilla. com; ivisitanguilla.com

The Islands fIle: THE TOP ATTRACTIONS, HOT BUYS AND ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW TO BE AN EXPERT ISLAND HOPPER By B Ang

cayman IsLands dePT TourIsm

Cruzan Cheer

If you haven’t had the pleasure of sipping from a bucket of VooDoo juice, Iggies Beach Bar at Bolongo Bay in St. Thomas is a place of fabulous first introductions. Blended with fruity Cruzan rums made locally in the United States Virgin Islands, the mighty potion has earned the seaside bar legions of loyal fans who imbibe enthusiastically every Wednesday when Carnival is the star attraction. “Served over ice in a bucket, VooDoo Juice will quickly transport you into vacation mode,” said Katarina Doumeng, director of sales and marketing. “This signature cocktail is packed with five types of Cruzan rum with a splash of fruit juice and is best enjoyed with your toes in the sand, under a palm tree, while munching on conch fritters with mango dipping sauce.” www.IggiesBeachBar.com Family-owned for more than three decades and a big hit with VooDoo Juice fanatics (yes, they exist), the allinclusive is also tops with the party crowd who covet not only the crafty Carnival cocktails, calypso bands and Mocko Jumbo dancers, but the splendid smorgasbord sitting pretty on the festive West-Indian buffet. “A popular dish is our callaloo soup made of leaves from a dasheen plant and spinach mixed with okra, eggplant, sweet potato, herbs and stewed oxtail, hambone, pork or beef,” adds Katarina Doumeng, “There’s also snapper served over a mound of cornmeal fungi and hot sauce.” But it’s always the rum that keeps the party going, even for the politicians. “The USVI is famous for our elegant and smooth Cruzan rum, one of the most lovingly distilled spirits in the Caribbean,” said Beverly NicholsonDoty, commissioner tourism, USVI. www.visitusvi.com.

Swimming with the locals at Stingray City in the Cayman Islands.

antigua & Barbuda

Surrounded by azure seas, the twin islands of Antigua and Barbuda, are renowned for their 365 beaches, hidden bays, soft white sand and exotic coral reefs. Antigua is the largest of the English-speaking Leeward Islands. Hot Plate: Antiguan cuisine reflects the island’s rich cultural heritage with a combination of spicy Creole dishes and traditional English fare, along with global culinary influences. Local favourites like fresh spiny lobster, conch, oysters and red snapper dishes encompass all the flavours of the Caribbean. The national dish, known as fungi and pepperpot, is a thick vegetable stew made with yam, squash, okra, eggplant, dasheen leaves (similar to spinach), plantains and pumpkin. It is served with salted meat and fried cornmeal dumplings. Top Attractions: The 365 beaches; St. John’s Saturday Morning Market; Nelson’s Dockyard National Park; nightlife around Falmouth and English harbours. Hot Buys: Cavalier Muscovado Rum; Wadadli, a pale lager named after the Antiguan word for beer. Info: www.visitantiguabarbuda.com

aruba Aruba, with its near-perfect weather, features natural wonders, historic sites and museums, booming culinary scene, diverse land and sea activities, and a lively nightlife. Hot Plate: Keshi Yena is a spicy mixture of chicken and peppers, capers, olives and tomatoes traditionally baked in a Gouda cheese shell. Keri Keri is one of Aruba’s popular seafood dishes. Best made with drier types of firm, white-flesh fish, such as barracuda or shark, the fish fillet is boiled in salted water, removed and shredded, and then sauteed in butter with tomato, onion, celery, bell pepper, fresh basil, black pepper, and annato spice. Top Attraction: Arikok National Park. Hot Buy: Aruba Aloe. Info: www.Aruba.com Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller 29

The Islands file: This image: The Baths, BVI’s other-worldly seascape. Top Right: Arikok National Park boasts a network of biking, hiking and walking trails. Bottom Right: Puerto Rico’s Old San Juan is the only walled city in the Caribbean.

Comprising 700 islands, visitors can revel in a variety of activities in water and on land. Paradise and Grand Bahama Islands are the main hubs, but for the more adventurous traveller, hidden gems can be found in The Outer Islands. The “People-to-People Experience” program offers visitors opportunities to interact with the locals. Hot Plate: Conch dishes – Conch salad deep-fried (called cracked conch), steamed, added to soups and stews or made into conch chowder, conch fritters and conch burgers. Top Attractions: Swimming with the pigs at Exuma Cays; Pirates of Nassau, an interactive museum that depicts the Bahamas’ storied past as home to the world’s most infamous pirates. Hot Buys: Straw hats and baskets; the brightly coloured Androsia print clothing. Info: www.bahamas.com.

Barbados Barbados is said to be the culinary capital of the Caribbean. This island paradise’s rich history and diverse offerings are topped by sunny weather, friendly and welcoming people, and lively night scene. 30 Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

Hot Plate: Cou Cou and Flying Fish the national dish of Barbados; Bajan Fish Cakes. Top Attractions: The well-preserved British colonial architecture of Historic Bridgetown and its Garrison – a UNESCO’s World Heritage Site. Hot Buys: Pepper sauce; rum. Info: www.visitbarbados.org

Bermuda This mid-Atlantic jewel is an enticing year-round destination that’s home to a vibrant arts scene, luxurious spa treatments and close to 400 wreck dives. The island also has more golf courses per square kilometre than anywhere else in the world. Hot Plate: Fish Chowder, often considered Bermuda’s national dish; Cassava Pie; Codfish & Potatoes Top Attractions: Walking tours of St. George, a UNESCO World Heritage Site; Southshore Beaches; the Royal Naval Dockyard; and the cosmopolitan city of Hamilton. Hot Buys: Rum Cakes; Bermuda Honey; Outerbridge Original Sherry Pepper Sauces; Bermuda shorts; Lily Bermuda fragrances. Info: www.GoToBermuda.com

British Virgin Islands Sixty islands, tranquil beaches and outstanding sailing and diving conditions have earned the British Virgin Islands a reputation as the place to go to sample natural Caribbean charm. Hot Plate: Anegada spiny lobster; "Painkiller” cocktail, a delightful mix of dark rum, pineapple and orange juices, cream of coconut and freshly grated nutmeg. Top Attractions: The Wreck of the Rhone, the most famous dive site in the Caribbean; the Baths, an other-worldly seascape where gigantic boulders are scattered around the beach and in the water. Hot Buys: Local pottery, painting, prints, photographs and baskets. Info: www.bvitrouism.com

Cayman Islands

A trio of islands – Grand Cayman, Cayman Brac and Little Cayman – the Cayman Islands is world renowned for its beaches and diving spots. The Cayman Islands are also touted as a “Culinary Capital of the Caribbean” with more

BVI Tourist Board, Aruba Tourism, Puerto Rico Tourism Company

Bahamas

Cigars and Old Havana – top attractions in Cuba. Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller

KamIra/sHuTTersTocK.com

INTRIGUING HISTORY, FASCINATING PEOPLE AND A RICH CULINARY TRADITION ADD SPICE TO ANY CARIBBEAN VACATION

The Islands fIle: than 250 restaurants and the “Cayman Cookout”, a popular food and wine festival held yearly in January. Hot Plate: Conch fritters and fresh fish served Cayman-style – prepared in a spicy tomato sauce with sweet peppers and onions. Top Attractions: A sunken naval ship, the USS Kittiwake, is the most recent dive and snorkel site and joins Stingray City as one of the best attractions in the Cayman Islands. Hot Buys: Cayman Sea Salt and Sticky Toffee Cake from the Town Centre at Camana Bay. Info: www.caymanislands.ky

St. Kitts’ historic sugar train, the only scenic passenger train in the Caribbean.

Cuba is the largest and most populous Caribbean island with an extremely vibrant culture. Historic sites, cultural and arts traditions span pre-Columbian, Spanish colonial and modern eras. The main cultural hub is in Havana with its museums, galleries, stage shows, festivals and nightclubs. Another cultural venue is Santiago de Cuba. The country also boasts several beach destinations including Varadero, Holguin and Cayo Coco that offer resorts that range from all-inclusive to luxury. Hot Plate: Ropa vieja, is local main course consisting beef with plenty of vegetables served with rice and fried plantains. Top Attraction: Old Havana, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hot Buys: Rum; cigars; crafts of wood and other materials. Info: www.gocuba.ca

Curacao

Curaçao boasts 38 exquisite beaches and more than 60 world-class diving sites. Situated on the outer fringes of the hurricane belt, it is the perfect year-round destination. The historic downtown

Jamaican Jerk – in a flavour class all its own. 32 Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

area of Willemstad has more than 750 monuments and sites, including Mikvé Israël-Emanuel Synagogue, the oldest synagogue in continuous use in the Western Hemisphere. Hot Plate: Keshi Yena, possibly Curaçao’s most famous dish; Yuana (stewed iguana), which tastes a lot like chicken; Sopi Yuana (iguana soup). Top Attractions: Carnival; Curaçao North Sea Jazz Festival; the colourful Handelskade in downtown Willemstad; diving; LGBT community offerings. Hot Buy: Blue Curacao Liqueur. Info: www.curacao.com

dominican Republic

Home to beautiful beaches and resorts on both the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea. The Dominican Republic is a Caribbean paradise with 16 national parks, lush forests, beautiful valleys. Activities on offer include world-class whitewater rafting on the Rio Yaque, kiteboarding and wind-surfing at Cabarete, and golfing on more than 25 courses. Hot Plate: Sancocho – the national dish of the Dominican Republic; Pidgeon Peas. Top Attractions: Whale watching trips off the coast of Samana (January to March); hiking the Damajagua Cascades waterfalls near Las Terrenas; diving off of the north coast in Sosua. Hot Buy: Dominican Amber. Info: www.GoDominicanRepublic.com

Jamaica

Reggae, rum, jerk and coffee are some of the things that make Jamaica so enticing.

It is also the Caribbean’s third largest island with six tourist regions, each with its own unique character – Montego Bay, Negril, the South Coast, Kingston, Port Antonio and Ocho Rios. The island offers amazing beaches, lush forests, rushing waterfalls, diverse culture, diving, hiking, first-class golf courses and plenty of resorts. Hot Plate: Jamaican Jerk is in a class of its own; Ackee and saltfish, Jamaica’s national dish. Top Attractions: Dunn’s River Falls; river rafting the Martha Brae River; Seven Mile Beach; Negril Cliffs; Appleton Estate; Rose Hall Great House. Hot Buy: Jamaican rum from Appleton Estate. Info: www.visitjamaica.com

Puerto Rico

In Puerto Rico, there is something for everyone, ranging from the history and culture of Old San Juan to the wonders of the El Yunque Rainforest. For golf diehards, Puerto Rico offers 25 courses – more than any other island in the Caribbean. Hot Plate: Asopao, Puerto Rico’s official dish. Top Attractions: Old San Juan, the only walled city in the Caribbean. Hot Buys: Rum; coffee. Info: www.seepuertorico.com

st. Kitts

Spotted by Columbus in 1493, the island’s heritage is traced to the arrival of the British in 1624 and the sugar trade. St. Kitts’ attractions include lava

sT KITTs TourIsm auTHorITy, JamaIca TourIsT Board

Cuba

The Islands fIle:

The famous Trinidad Carnival typically falls in February, but come anytime and enjoy the lively beat of calypso and soca music, and the city’s many nightclubs.

Sailing the stunning azure waters of Tobago Cays, SVG.

st. Maarten formations, tropical forests, lagoons and an historic sugar train, the only scenic passenger train in the Caribbean. Hot Plate: Stewed salt fish; spicy plantains; coconut dumplings; seasoned breadfruit. Top Attractions: Brimstone Hill Fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hot Buy: Handmade batik products. Info: www.stkittstourism.kn

st. lucia

St. Lucia has some pretty lush and dramatic scenery, like the famous Pitons – twin volcanic peaks and the region’s only drive-in volcano. Its vast rainforest 34 Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

St. Maarten is an island with dual personalities – French to the north and Dutch to the south. Along with plenty of historic sites, St. Maarten boasts 36 beaches, great water and wind sports, 12 casinos and more than 300 restaurants that offer a range of global cuisines. Hot Plate: Johnny Cakes. Top Attraction: 12 Metre Challenge. Hot Buy: Gavaberry Liqueur. Info: www.vacationstmaarten.com

st. Vincent & the Grenadines St. Vincent and the Grenadines is a collection of 32 unspoiled islands

and cays in the secluded Southern Caribbean. It offers azure waters, stunning white sand beaches and unspoiled forests. Hot Plate: Breadfruit and Stuffed Jacks (fish), SVG’s national dish; Saltfish Buljol, a salted codfish salad. Top Attraction: Tobago Cays. Hot Buy: St. Vincent jellies such as brands like Erica’s and Winfresh. Info: www.discoversvg.com

Trinidad & Tobago

Lively Trinidad boasts a bustling capital city. Port of Spain is filled with galleries, restaurants and museums, gorgeous beaches along the north shore, and lush forests in the interior. Serene Tobago has quiet beaches on its north coast while its eastern side is home to the oldest protected forest reserve in the Western Hemisphere. Hot Plate: Doubles – a local breakfast favourite; Bake and Shark. Top Attraction: Making mas in Trinidad and Tobago at Carnival. Hot Buy: Chocolates. Trinidad and Tobago was once king of the cocoa industry in the 19th century. Info: www.gotrinidadandtobago.com

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interior is complemented by spectacular waterfalls, breathtaking views and friendly locals. Besides being renowned as a place for a romantic escape, St. Lucia is also a family-friendly destination. Hot Plate: Green Fig with Salt Fish, said to be the official dish; St. Lucia Crab Back. Top Attractions: Pigeon Island National Park; Fort Rodney. Hot Buys: Chocolates; spices; hot sauces; Chairman’s Reserve Rum. Info: www.stlucianow.ca

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USA

WINTERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S COMING Where To Go, What To See & What To Do On A Winter Long-Stay Vacation By B Ang

When winter hits Canada, some Canadians simply choose to pack their bags and head off somewhere warm. You need not go that far â&#x20AC;&#x201D; check out the U.S. Besides being in close proximity, our American neighbours offer minimal disruption to things that you are used to, like preferred brands and products from the local grocery store, and the latest episode of your favourite TV show. Here are some places to consider for that long-stay vacation.

Fly South In Winter: check out the southern U.S. states. Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller 37

Florida

My, What Big Teeth: discover everything ‘gator in Florida.

Birds Of A Feather: Florida has 500 birding sites.

✺

Annual Events ✺ Art Deco Festival, Miami Beach: Raises awareness and appreciation of the Art Deco era through lectures, films and music (January). ✺ Gasparilla Pirate Fest, Tampa: Festivities celebrate legendary pirate Jose Gaspar (January). ✺ Florida State Fair, Tampa: Saluting the best in agriculture and equestrian events (February). ✺ Florida Strawberry Festival, Plant City: Features parades, exhibits, entertainment and youth programs (March). ✺ American Sand Sculpting Championships, Fort Myers Beach: One of the longest running sand 38 Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

sculpting competitions worldwide (November). Art Basel Miami Beach: Sister festival to the one in Switzerland featuring about 150 galleries from around the world (December). Winterfest, Fort Lauderdale: Multi-cultural festivities include a boat parade, Black Tie Ball and Shoreline Decorating Extravaganza (December).

Golf ✺ Omni Amelia Island Plantation, Amelia Island. ✺ Seminole Golf Club, Juno Beach. ✺ Black Diamond Ranch, Lecanto. ✺ Arnold Palmer’s Bay Hill Club & Lodge Bay Hill, Orlando. ✺ Sharks Tooth Golf Club, Panama City Beach. ✺ Pebble Creek Golf Club, Tampa. ✺ TPC Sawgrass, Ponte Vedra Beach. ✺ Trump International Golf Club, West Palm Beach.

Beaches ✺ Amelia Island: Historic Fernandina beach can be explored via a carriage, Segway or trolley tour. Fishing and other water sports available. ✺ Atlantic Beach, Duval County: Soft, white sandy beach. ✺ Canaveral National Seashore: Longest expanse of pristine shore in Florida; sanctuary to threatened animals including nesting sea turtles. ✺ Cap San Blas: Peninsula curved around St. Joseph Bay. Activities include horseback riding, eco-excursions, kayaking and snorkelling. ✺ Clearwater Beach: Family-oriented; voted “Florida’s Best Beach” by USA Today. ✺ Key West: “Paradise situated off the coast of mainland Florida,” according to Jimmy Buffet. ✺ South Beach, Miami: Quintessential Miami, known for stunning beaches, shopping and nightlife. ✺ Sanibel Beach: Offers perfectly intact

PHOTOS: Visit Florida

Florida is filled with lots of activities to suit everyone. These range from visiting museums, shopping and entertainment to relaxing on the beach and just watching the world go by. Even without the kids, Orlando still entices with its themed attractions and the new Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex. Those interested in nature-based offerings need look no further than the swamps in the Everglades National Park. This year marks the 500th anniversary of Spanish explorer, Juan Ponce de León’s landing on Florida’s east coast. It is the first documented European presence in the state and by many accounts, mainland America. On another page of history, St. Augustine holds the record as the oldest city in the U.S., established in 1565.

shells in every shape and size; home to the largest shelling festival in the world. What To Do ✺ Zipline over cypress swamps on the grounds of the Tallahassee Museum. ✺ Go birding – the Florida Birding and Wildlife trail has 500 birding sites with about 510 species. ✺ Stop by the National Naval Aviation Museum, Pensacola. Into its 102nd year, it features the elite Blue Angels flight demonstration squadron. ✺ Visit the Miami Design District. Once a pineapple grove, it now houses high-end design showrooms that are home to internationally acclaimed artworks and artists. ✺ Go to Gatorland and see all things related to alligators and crocodiles. What To See ✺ Walt Disney World Resort. ✺ Busch Gardens. ✺ SeaWorld, Orlando. ✺ Universal Orlando Resort. ✺ LEGOLAND Water Park, Central Florida. Major Shopping Districts Lido Key (close to Sarasota), Worth Avenue (Palm Beach), Bal Harbour Shops, Adventura and Dadeland Mall (Miami), Sawgrass Mills (Fort Lauderdale), Silver Sands Factory Stores (Destin), Fifth Avenue South (Naples), Pensacola’s historic district, Centre Street (Fernandina Beach), The Shops at Omni Amelia Island Plantation, The Mall at Millenia, Orlando Premium Outlets (Orlando); International & Westshore Plazas, Palma Ceia (Tampa).

Myrtle Beach, South Carolina Myrtle Beach’s development as a resort started in 1901 when its first beach hotel, the Seaside Inn opened. Today, visitors have a wide variety of water-based activities to indulge in including freshwater and saltwater fishing. Often called the golf capital of the world, some of its fairways are frequently listed among the top 100 courses in the country. Annual Events ✺ Canadian-American Days Festival: Two-week-long affair with military band concerts, athletic tournaments and history days (March). ✺ Beach Boogie and Barbeque Festival: South Carolina’s official barbecue competition features lots of entertainment, eating and drinking options (September). ✺ Loris Bog Off: Celebrating the heritage Chicken Bog, a Southern favourite. Program includes a top-notch cooking competition, parade and fireworks (October). Golf ✺ Dunes Club. ✺ Barefoot Dye Club. ✺ Tournament Players Club. ✺ Bald Head Island. ✺ Caledonia. Beaches ✺ Little River: Features arts and crafts, entertainment and booths selling blue crab inspired food. ✺ North Myrtle Beach: Place where the shag (dance) was born. ✺ Myrtle Beach: One of the most visited beaches on the East Coast with hotels, restaurants, attractions, retail stores and other hospitality businesses. ✺ Surfside Beach: Family beach with a fishing pier.

✺ Garden City Beach: Popular area for fishing, crabbing and water sports. Its well-known fishing pier features live music during summer evenings. A creek walk spans the salt marsh.

What To Do ✺ Deep sea fishing. ✺ Boat tour. ✺ Paddle board yoga. What To See ✺ Ripley’s Aquarium. ✺ Magiquest. ✺ Wonderworks. ✺ Skywheel Myrtle Beach. ✺ Family Kingdom. Major Shopping Districts ✺ Broadway at the Beach, Barefoot Landing, Coastal Grande Mall, Tanger Outlets, Pawley’s Island Hammock Shops, The Market Common. Insider Info Best breakfast: Pier House Restaurant. Best lunch: Mr. Fish. Best sunset bar: Gulfstream Café (only place you can see sunrise and sunset on Murrells Inlet). The 411 ✺ Scenic Byways: Business 17 Kings Highway – most scenic and oldest road in the area. ✺ Average temperature: 15°C to 24°C.

MBACVB

Insider Info ✺ Best breakfast: Bright Mornings, Fernandina Beach; Alabama Jack’s, Key Largo, Florida Keys, Oxford Exchange, Tampa. ✺ Best lunch: Jaco’s Bayfront Bar and Grille, Pensacola; Café Karibo, Amelia Island; Boca Kitchen, Tampa. ✺ Best sunset bar: Yellow Dog Café, Melbourne; Flora-Bama Lounge & Package, Perdido Key; Sunset Grill and Raw Bar, Marathon, Florida Keys; Sail Pavilion, Tampa. The 411 ✺ Scenic Byways: A1A Scenic & Historic Coastal Byway, Big Bend Scenic Byway, Florida Black Bear Scenic Byway. ✺ Average temperatures: 27°C.

Wonderful: WonderWorks is an amusement park for the mind.

Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller 39

Hawaii With a unique land composition, Hawaii’s four major islands – Oahu, Hawaii Island, Maui and Kauai – each have their own special offerings. Among them are alluring beaches and active volcanoes that are constantly expanding the landmass. Then, there are the lesser-known islands of Molokai and Lanai. In Molokai, the Kalaupapa National Historical Park provides a one-of-a-kind experience. Accessible only by flying, hiking or riding a Molokai mule down a fivekilometre trail filled with 26 switchbacks, it descends 488 metres to the peninsula. It is said to be the most beautiful and inspirational place in Hawaii. The neighbouring island of Lanai is an ideal destination for a romantic getaway with its two luxurious resorts and many secluded beach areas. There are also two challenging and stunning looking championship golf courses.

✺

Merrie Monarch Festival, hawaii Island: Hawaii’s most venerable hula celebration (March/April). East Maui taro Festival, hana: Centred around Hawaii’s traditional staple food and Hawaiian culture (April). Ironman triathalon World Championship, hawaii Island: Top

✺

1,800 triathletes from 50 countries compete in this superbowl of races (October). Kona Coffee Cultural Festival, hawaii Island: Celebrating the coffee harvest. Features tastings, farm tours, parades (November).

Romance By The Sea: Kee Beach, Kauai.

HTa/TOr JOHNSON

AnnuAl EvEnts ✺ Maui Whale Festival: Highlights include guided excursions with marine biologists (February). ✺ Waimea town Celebration, Kauai: Events include the Kilohana Long Distance Canoe Race (February).

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Whale Of A Tail: The Maui Whale Festival celebrates the beasts in February.

Surf’s Up: Big wave surfers on Oahu’s North Shore.

riGHT: HTa/TOr JOHNSON; Far riGHT: HTa/KirK lEE aEdEr

✺

GolF ✺ Wailea Golf Club, Maui. ✺ Kauai Lagoons Golf Club, Kauai. ✺ Mauna Lani Resort, Hawaii Island. ✺ The Challenge at Manele, Lanai. ✺ Ko Olina Golf Club, Oahu. BEAChEs ✺ Waimanalo Beach, oahu: Kilometres of pristine beaches nestled against the dramatic Ko’olau mountains. ✺ Maluaka Beach, Maui: Nicknamed “Turtle Beach” as sea turtles frequent this stretch. ✺ Kee Beach, Kauai: Lying at the end of Highway 560, its reefs make it excellent for shoreline snorkelling.

✺

Punaluu Beach, hawaii Island: The most famous black sand beach in the islands located between Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and the small town of Naalehu.

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waves up to 15 metres high in the winter, North Shore, Oahu. Lavender fields in Waipoli, Maui. Ancient Hawaiian stone carvings at Puako Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve, Hawaii Island.

InsIDER InFo Best breakfast: Eggs & Things, Oahu; Plantation House, Maui; Hawaiian Style Cafe, Hawaii Island; Little Fish Coffee, Kauai. ✺ Best lunch: Town Restaurant, Oahu; The Fish and the Hog, Hawaii Island; The Koloa Fish Market, Kauai; Sam Sato’s, Maui. ✺ Best sunset bar: House Without a Key, Oahu; Capishe?, Maui; Don the Beachcomber, Hawaii Island; Merriman’s, Kauai. ✺

WhAt to Do ✺ Surf the waves off Waikiki in an outrigger canoe. ✺ Explore the road to Hana on Maui. ✺ Snorkel with manta rays off the Kona coast on Hawaii Island. ✺ Kayak down Hawaii’s only navigable rivers on Kauai. WhAt to sEE Big wave surfers carving through

✺

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Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller

Red Sky At Night: a great bar is the best place to see the sun go down.

T�� Gulf Co�t This region is home to some of the best beaches in the U.S. Made up of 1,004 kilometres of coastline, it offers warm waters for swimming and myriad waterbased activities. Most of the Great Texas Coastal Birding Trail sites are located here, the Rio Grande Valley being the nation’s top birdwatching venue. Corpus Christi has been ranked “America’s Birdiest City” for the last decade. Giant sea turtles including the endangered Kemp’s Ridley, can be found around South Padre Island and Galveston Island.

GolF ✺ Newport Dunes, Corpus Christi. ✺ Lozano Golf Center, Corpus Christi. ✺ Moody Gardens Golf Course, Galveston. ✺ Galveston Country Club. BEAChEs ✺ north Packery Beach, Corpus Christi: Popular surfing and kite-boarding spot. ✺ Padre Island national seashore, Corpus Christi: Home to nesting Kemp’s Ridley sea turtles. ✺ East Beach: Galveston’s most popular hang-out; only beach on the island where alcohol is allowed. ✺ south Padre Island: Recognized as Texas’ top beach. 42 Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

WhAt to Do ✺ Visit Texas State Aquarium in Corpus Christi to see the diverse marine life from the Gulf of Mexico. ✺ Participate in Hotel Galvez’s “Ghost Tour Dinner”, Galveston. A paranormal investigation of the ghost bride in room 501 is followed by dinner. ✺ Hop onboard a dolphin watch cruise around South Padre Island. WhAt to sEE ✺ Galveston Island Historic Pleasure Pier. ✺ USS Lexington, Corpus Christi. ✺ Schlitterbahn Beach Resort & Waterpark, South Padre Island. InsIDER InFo ✺ Best breakfast: Town & Country, Corpus Christi; Sunflower Cafe, Galveston; The Palm Café, South Padre Island. ✺ Best lunch: Railroad Seafood Station, Corpus Christi; Farley Girls Cafe, Galveston; Pier 19, South Padre Island.

✺

Best sunset bar: Doc’s Seafood, Corpus Christi; Beach Hut, Galveston; Laguna Bob Bar on Bay, South Padre Island.

thE 411 scenic Byways: Bay Area Loop in Corpus Christi, Queen Isabella Causeway, South Padre Island. ✺ Average temperatures: 18 to 27°C. ✺

lEFT: MarTY SNOrTUM/TXdOT; TOP riGHT: TXdOT; TOP lEFT: MiCHaEl MUrPHY/TXdOT

AnnuAl EvEnts ✺ Corpus Christi First: Friday ArtWalk, Saturday Marina Market Days and Sunday BridgeWalk (first weekend of every month). ✺ Mardi Gras! Galveston: Third largest Mardi Gras celebration in the country (two weeks before Fat Tuesday).

Into The Deep: Make new friends at the Texas State Aquarium

Hot, Hot, Hot: Arizona is where parts of four deserts converge.

Arizona is the only state in the country where parts of four deserts – Great Basin, Mojave, Chihuahuan and Sonoran, can be found. Besides deserts, mountains, rivers, valleys and lakes make up the rest of Arizonas' geography. Its rich history traces the different peoples who lived here starting from Native Americans to Spanish conquistadors, cowboys and gold miners. On the western frontier, towns like Tombstone, Prescott and Wilcox offer an insight into life in the Wild West. The state is known for its Western and Native American art and ancient artifacts. Today, the new Hopi Arts Trail (starting in Moenkopi) allows visitors to connect with artists and galleries on the Hopi mesas in northern Arizona. AnnuAl EvEnts ✺ Barrett-jackson Classic Car Auction, scottsdale: International car auction featuring antique/classic cars, collectibles and rare “automobilia” (January). ✺ Accenture Match Play Golf Championship, Marana: Considered the cornerstone of the World Golf Championship series with a purse of US $7.5 million (February). ✺ Red Rock Fantasy of lights, sedona: Holiday lights festival featuring over one million lights (November). GolF ✺ Ritz-Carlton Dove Mountain (Saguaro/ Tortolita), Marana. ✺ Superstition Springs, Mesa. 44 Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

✺ ✺ ✺ ✺

Troon North (Pinnacle), Scottsdale. TPC Scottsdale (Champions), Scottsdale. Seven Canyons, Sedona. Ventana Canyon, Tucson.

DEsERt EXPERIEnCEs ✺ Great Basin: Iconic Monument Valley landscape; experience snow in winter in the desert. ✺ the Mojave Desert: The driest desert in North America offers activities such as boating on Lake Havasu or rafting the Colorado River. ✺ Chihuahuan: Excellent for viewing migratory birds. ✺ sonoran Desert: Comes alive in spring with Saguaro blossoms and wildflowers.

WhAt to Do ✺ Join a jeep tour to the red rocks of Sedona. ✺ Heli-tour over the Grand Canyon. ✺ Go horseback riding through the Sonoran Desert. WhAt to sEE ✺ Grand Canyon National Park. ✺ Historic guest ranches in southern Arizona. ✺ World-class resorts, hotels, restaurants and museums like the Musical Instrument Museum (MIM) and the Heard Museum. ✺ Verde Valley Wine Trail. ✺ Lake Havasu for water sports and the London Bridge. InsIDER InFo ✺ Best breakfast: El Tovar Lodge, Grand Canyon National Park. ✺ Best lunch: Poolside at a destination spa. ✺ Best sunset bar: Pointe Hilton's Different Pointe of View, Phoenix. thE 411 ✺ scenic Byways: Coronado Trail, The Red Rock Byway, Apache Trail, Route 66. ✺ Average temperature: desert 10°C to 20°C.

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CANADIAN TRAVELLER PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

FALLING FOR THE EMPIRE STATE Leaf-Peeping Along New York’s Scenic Byways

Fall Magic: Scenic rail trips, bike trails and canal cruises highlight New York’s autumn foliage.

like Boldt Castle vie for attention with quaint towns such as Alexandria Bay and Sackets Harbor. History takes centre Ad19334-CanTrvlr"Fall&Wine" 8/19/13 1:16 PMstage Pa in Oswego at the 19th-century Fort Ontario and lovely lighthouses like Tibbetts Point and Sodas Bay. Two remarkable cities punctuate this route. In Rochester, museums celebrate everything from imaging pioneer George Eastman and suffragette Susan B. Anthony to interactive fun at the National Museum of Play, and Buffalo, known for lively musical venues and scrumptious food, is also a jumping off point for Niagara Falls and the Seneca-Iroquois National Museum. Nearby Lockport, built around the Erie Canal, offers scenic fall canal cruises, and Chautauqua County’s “Colors of Chautauqua” classes include plein air painting and leaf printing. Other enchanting drives abound, including Route 90, which winds through gorgeous Finger Lakes wine country and rolling farmland, 12 different N.Y. State When it comes to Niagara USA, Scenic Byways through the Adirondacks, it ALL begins once you cross and the Route 20 Scenic Byway through the border. Central New York. Indoor adventures beckon at Syracuse’s Destiny USA, among the largest malls in the world: race go-karts at Pole Up close and Position Raceway; experience hurricanepowerful!. force winds and design a virtual roller For a list of attractions and lodging information, visit Niagara-USA.com. coaster at WonderWorks educational

They came.

They shopped.

They stayed!

46 Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

amusement park; or shop for fall clothes at 200-plus stores. Unique lodging options include historic sites such as Tibbetts Point Lighthouse, now a hostel, Singer Castle, set on a private island and Geneva on the Lake, modeled after a majestic Italian villa. Or enjoy 360 degree panoramic views at deluxe settings like Greek Peek’s Hope Lake Lodge and The Point, a former Rockefeller estate, or budget friendly rental cabins or campsites at parks like Wellesley Island State Park. www.iloveny.com

NIAGARA

Leaf-peeping in New York’s Niagara region is both colourful and easily accessible. Take a guided hike in the Niagara Gorge, or self-guided rambles through Devil’s Hole and Whirlpool State Parks. Wander along the original Erie Canal Tow Path from Lockport to Middleport. There are also excellent bike paths along the Niagara River. Birders also flock here as the Niagara River is recognized globally as an Important Bird Area. Indoors, Niagara is home to the Fashion Outlets of Niagara, one the top ten rated outlet malls in the U.S., with more than 150 stores to suit everyone's shopping needs. Packages include shopping perks, free gifts, the Niagara USA Discovery Pass and accommodations. www.niagara-usa.com

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ALL is a magical time in New York State. Autumn’s vibrant mantle of colours forms a stunning backdrop for an eclectic array of activities. Snap photos of the foliage along scenic rail routes such as the historic Adirondack Scenic Railroad, the Cooperstown and Charlotte Valley Railroad and the domed cars of the Saratoga and North Creek Railway and Amtrak’s Adirondack route. Or join a canal cruise with Erie Canal Cruises in Herkimer or the Glimmerglass Queen in Cooperstown. A l o n g t h e G re a t L a k e s S e a w a y Trail, the vivid colours of fall reflect like impressionistic paintings on the shimmering waters. A designated National Scenic Byway, this 829-kilometre route skirts the shores of Lake Erie, the Niagara River, Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River. Its vantage points range from aweinspiring Niagara Falls to intimate fishing villages and picturesque lighthouses. In the Thousand Islands/Seaway region, classic boat tours and fanciful mansions

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WIN A SKI TRIP FOR 4 OFF PISTE ACTION POWDER PLUS Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller 49

EUROPE

ski europe A POWDER HOUND’S INTRODUCTION TO SKIING EUROPE

Above: Go on, dive in. Nothing is sweeter after a day on the runs than a mug of steaming hot chocolate. Right: Breathtaking view of the Alps from the starting point of the Vallée Blanche, one of the longest ski slopes in Europe. 50 Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

PHOTO: ATOuT FrAnce/STéPHAne FrAnceS

kiing in Europe simply smacks of classic, continental elegance: clear, crisp runs, cosy olde-worlde villages, chocolat chaud by a chalet fireside, Bond-esque beauties speeding down the slopes, and the most stylish après options that you can shake a ski pole at. There’s no denying it; skiing in Europe is unapologetically glamorous. But be warned, it’s not all about the designer snowboard socks or the trendiest toques. On a skiing vacation in Europe, one thing – and one thing only – reigns supreme: Food. Cuisine is so high on the European powder hound’s list of priorities, that it’s as important as the powder itself. And

PHOTO: www.creativecommons.org/James Preston

PHOTO: Atout France/Stéphane Frances

One of the world’s first purposebuilt ski resorts, Sestriere, boasts 2,035 metres of elevation.

who can blame them? In Europe, the food is delicious. Europe allows Canada’s skiers to blend some excellent snow time with some exquisite epicurean adventures – and then it spices it with some European culture for good measure. Add to that the fact that the ability to ski from village to village is common in Europe, et voilà: you’re in ski heaven!

of stunning slopes and cosmopolitan cuisine. Verbier boasts off-piste skiing; glamorous St. Moritz caters to intermediate skiers; Klosters provides a more sophisticated option and often attracts Britain’s Prince Charles; and the quaint town of Zermatt, which lies beneath the mighty Matterhorn, is perfect for families. Sampling the fondue is a must.

Ski Austria

Ski France

Austria is practically covered by the Alps, so the opportunities are endless. This is where alpine skiing was born, so the vibe in the Austrian ski resorts is all about tradition and authenticity – something that the country’s neighbours try their very best to emulate. The resorts of Lech and Zurs are fit for royalty; St Anton is a great for advanced skiers; Kitzbuhel oozes medieval charm and Innsbruck offers some 500 kilometres of trails.

Known for its dramatic scenery and wide, clear runs, France is a ski classic. Gourmet dining abounds and the cuisine is simply to die for. A magnet for hard core skiers, extreme terrain can be found in Chamonix, which boasts Europe’s mightiest peak, Mont Blanc. Alternately, the stylish set flock to Val d’Isere, which has an abundance of wide runs for beginners and intermediates.

Ski Switzerland

Ski Italy

Fondue-lovers prepare yourselves... Switzerland is overflowing with promises

In super-relaxed Italy, long luscious lunches are as important as exploring

the slopes. This is classically dramatic country: the Matterhorn sits on the SwissItalian border and Mont Blanc straddles the French-Italian border. One of the world’s first purpose-built ski resorts, Sestriere, boasts 2,035 metres of elevation, while ‘Queen of the Dolomites’, Cortina, attracts the stylish ski set. It’s also where much of 1963 film, The Pink Panther, was filmed, as well as some of the stunt sequences from 1981’s For Your Eyes Only.

Heavenly Highlight While skiing in Europe’s more traditional resorts can be tough on the bank balance, eastern Europe’s ski resorts are fast becoming popular cheaper alternatives. Poland offers some great value-formoney options, such as Zakopane; Slovakia boasts varied terrain in Jasná, Donovaly, Vratna and Drienica; the Romanian resorts include Poiana Brasov and Sinaia; and in Bulgaria, Borovets, Pamporovo and Bansko are well worth checking out. Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller

Europe clubmed

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4 5

52 Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

1. Friendly atmosphere: a true taste of the Italian Dolce Vita. 2. Kids Club: something for everyone in your family. 3. Gourmet dining: throughout the day and full open bar. 4. Chamonix Mont-Blanc: a stylish hotel and stellar views of Mont Blanc. 5. The Spa: Club Med has partnered with major spa brands.

EUROPE

A skier’s PArAdise SNOW LOVERS LOVE CLUB MED

ith more than 20 resorts in the Alps, scattered among France, Switzerland and Italy, Club Med has a unique mountain offering that is sure to please any skier. No matter what experience you are looking for from the foot of the slopes to the summit of the mountains, the skiing is spectacular and off piste, Club Med’s all-inclusive approach combined with Europe’s most prestigious ski resorts makes a memorable winter vacations.

PreMiuM All-incluSive MOuntAin PAckAge Club Med’s premium all-inclusive package is a strong added value and that takes on its full meaning on the mountain, where it allows guests to choose and enjoy their stay in peace and freedom – in a luxury environment. Whether it’s ski passes purchased ahead, ski or snowboard lessons booked directly in the resort, equipment rental or maintenance and adjustments on site, Club Med does everything possible to make sure skiers enjoy their stay to the full. You can expect top-quality equipment and ski lessons in small groups. Everything is designed to let you enjoy the ski area in the best possible conditions, in partnership with the best ski schools, who share the same hospitality values and Club Med spirit.

A wide rAnge OF OtHer ActivitieS Apres ski, soothe those aching muscles with a relaxing massage. Club Med has partnered with major spa brands such as Carita, Cinq Mondes, Nuxe and Payot and has a wellness offer* that puts pampering within easy reach. After such

a delightful experience, you will be ready to hit the slopes again. You don’t have to ski all the time. Take advantage of the majestic surroundings with Club Med’s wide range of alternate activities, such as the “Discovering the mountain environment”* hikes that explore the stunning landscapes with a guide, snowmobile outings or bob-rafting for a thrilling run. You will be astonished by the wide range of things you can do there. As for the table, at Club Med Resorts you can enjoy gourmet meals throughout the day and full open bar with premium beverages.

You’ll be amazed by the grandeur that Paradiski and Killy Space has to offer with its 425 kilometres and 300 kilometres of trails, respectively. Everyday you can hit new slopes and discover new horizons.

A wArM & Friendly AtMOSPHere

At Club Med Resorts, everything is thought out for everyone in your family. That’s why the mountain resorts provide – whatever the age of your children – the appropriate Kids Club. From ski initiation to nature and mountain pleasures, your children will have as much fun as you! Not to mention, kids under 4 years old stay for free.

In Pragelato Vialattea, Italy, host of the Torino Winter Olympic Games, you and your family can enjoy an unspoiled natural site and staying in authentic hamlets of Alpine chalets, at the foot of Europe’s second largest ski area. Sample a true taste of the Italian Dolce Vita. In Valmorel, France, enjoy the luxury accommodation of the resort’s 5 Tridents as well as exclusive service (continental room service, dedicated ski room for your convenience, concierge service) and unlimited access to all 4-Trident resort activities. Also, the prestigious Chalets by Club Med will charm the whole family, with exclusive services: a dedicated butler, an at-home chef*, and the possibility of having private lessons from a ski instructor from the Ecole de Ski Française. In Chamonix Mont-Blanc, France, enjoy a charming ski resort with all the comforts of a stylish hotel and stellar views of Mont Blanc.

FOr A Full week AS well AS SHOrt StAyS Because the mountains can also be enjoyed during the weekend, Club Med also offer short stays. The tailored activity program enables you to adapt your stay to your desires with, for example, two days of skiing and one day of snowshoeing.

HAPPy FAMilieS

A Skier’S PArAdiSe It’s no wonder that the Alps are one of the most popular ski destinations in the world. They stretch approximately 1,200 kilometres across eight countries and its highest peak, Mont Blanc in France, reaches an astonishing 4,810 metres and is often referred to as a skier’s paradise. At Club Med, you can enjoy the wonderful combination of this massive ski area and the authentic mountain charm of each of the villages. For more information or to book, please contact your travel professional, call 1-800-CLUBMED or visit www.clubmed.ca.

* additional charges apply

Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller 53

CANADA

ski cANAdA INTRODUCTION TO SKIING CANADA

Ski Bc It’s impossible to talk skiing in Canada without talking about the mother of all Canadian ski resorts, Whistler Blackcomb. Located just a couple of hours north of Vancouver, this gorgeous little village has been a big hit with skiers since the ‘60s. The terrain ranges from mild to wild, there’s an abundance of accommodation options for all budgets and the après ski is not to be missed. A little further inland, Sun Peaks, Silver Star and Big White are perfect for family-friendly ski trips. Whereas they boast decent-sized terrain that will keep beginners, intermediates and advanced 54 Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

BC reigns supreme as one of the world’s foremost heli-skiing destinations.

riders happy, there is less on offer for those in search of super steep, white knuckle terrain.

Ski AlBertA In the neighbouring province of Alberta, powder hounds can find the coolest resort not far from the gorgeous town of Banff. Sunshine Village, which sits partially within BC, is a large resort that’s big with powder skiers, while Lake Louise has some huge terrain and boasts some incredible views.

Ski OntAriO Just two hours north of Toronto, Blue Mountain is Ontario’s largest mountain resort. Skiers adore its 219-metre vertical and 36 trails and three freestyle zones. Alternately, check out Horseshoe Resort, which is a favourite with Toronto’s skiers, as it’s located just one hour north of the big smoke. There skiers find a strong arsenal of activities and adventures to expose them to the beauty of the great outdoors during all

seasons. The resort itself features newly renovated accommodation, indoor and seasonal pools, a hot tub, sauna and wading pool, two championship golf courses and a full service spa.

Ski QueBec Located in the Laurentian Mountains, Mount Tremblant is a world-class, four-season destination that boasts some 252 hectares of skiable terrain. Some of the best powder in eastern Canada can be found at Mont Sainte-Anne. The mountain has a summit elevation of 800 metres and some spectacular views of the St Lawrence River.

HeAvenly HigHligHt BC is the home of heli-skiing and the capital of cat-skiing. Cat-skiing and heli-skiing are heaven for powder hounds and a highlight of any ski holiday in Canada. Operators are dotted throughout the province.

mAin PHOTO: BAnFF lAKe lOuiSe TOuriSm/PAul ZiZKA. PHOTO: uwHiSTler BlAcKcOmB/neil BrOwn

anadian powder hounds need to ask themselves one important question: why do you think skiers from across the globe are lining up to check out the slopes in Whistler and Banff, Mount Tremblant and Calabogie Peaks? The answer is simple: it’s because when it comes to hitting the slopes, the powder in our very own backyard is hard to beat. Western Canada is awash with ski resorts that have a more than legendary reputation with skiers from around the world, so when it comes to sniffing out the best powder stashes and thigh-burning runs, there really is no need to look any further than the heavenly slopes at home. Why? There’s no shortage of snow, the infrastructure is impressive and the laidback vibe trumps the more expensive, highbrow resorts in Europe or the U.S. every time. Add to that the fact that there’s no need for a long, boring flight, and you’ll see that there really is something in chasing down some homegrown runs. After all, all of those French and German tourists can’t be wrong, eh?

Only five minutes from Banff, 25 minutes from Canmore and an hour from Calgary, Mount Norquay has been welcoming powder hounds for almost 90 years.

CANADA

Horseshoe Resort A FAMILY FAVOURITE FOR 50 YEARS

e-discover family time and winter fun at Horseshoe Resort – the ideal location north of the GTA (Greater Toronto Area) to learn snow sports. Horseshoe is a four-season resort founded 50 years ago, and remains a favourite to travellers looking to try a new sport. Located an hour north of the GTA, with the beautiful Copeland Forest in its backyard, Horseshoe boasts 26 runs served by six lifts, 45 kilometres of groomed cross-country trails, snow tubing, snowshoeing, and skating. These winter activities are complimented with 100 newly renovated guest rooms that range from standard rooms to Loft suites, a Shizen spa, casual and upscale dining options, an indoor pool and a host of other amenities including complimentary parking and WIFI access. Deluxe rooms feature a sunken sitting area with electric fireplaces and wellappointed bathrooms with oversized tubs, while the two-level loft suites overlook

New Rooms: Deluxe room with sunken sitting area.

the Valley Golf Course and boast a sunken sitting area with fireplace and bathroom on the main floor and bedroom and bathroom with an oversize whirlpool tub upstairs. Horseshoe Resort offers several packages with lessons, rentals, and lift pass options to suit. Discover ski and snowboard lessons include a beginner lift ticket, equipment rental and a 90-minute lesson. There are also weekend programs, evening programs

and holiday programs available. The Resort’s Kids Korral program offers a “Ponies” program for kids 3 and 4 years old and half- and full-day ski or boarding programs for kids 6 and up. Access for snowmobiles and snowmobile rentals are available from the Resort. For more information, visit www.horseshoeresort.com

Visit www.HorseshoeResort.com or call 1.866.966.0216 1 56 Canadian_travelerandexplore_re-discoverSNOW_v2.indd Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

13-07-16 4:23 PM

win The prize

A $ 3,200 FAMILY VACATION AT WOODLOCH

■ 3 night, 4 day getaway, for a family of 4

YOUR INFORMATION

■ 3 meals daily

NAME:

■ Free skiing each day at partner ski

mountain Ski-BigBear

how to ENTER

Enter Online At: www.canadiantraveller.net/ contests.php OR Fax To: 1-866-562-4405

ADDRESS: CITY:

PROV:

POSTAL CODE: FAX: EMAIL: TELEPHONE: SIGNATURE:

1. To enter the contest, the entrant must be a resident of Canada who has reached the age of majority in the province in which he/she resides, who is not an employee of, a member of the immediate family of, or domiciled with, an employee of ACT Communications Inc., its agents or distributors, or any of the prize donors. Note: Contest is not valid in any jurisdiction where prohibited by law. Odds of winning are contingent upon the number of entries received. 2. Contest closes February 28,

2014. 3. The draw will be made the week of March 10, 2014 from all correct entries received. All fields must be completed. 4. One prize will be awarded consisting of 3 night, 4 day getaway for a family of 4, 3 meals daily, free skiing each day at partner ski mountain Ski-Big Bear. Some restrictions may apply. 5. The prize redemption dates will be provided to the winner. It must be accepted as awarded, is not redeemable for cash and is not transferable. 6. The winner will be advised

by telephone during the week of March 10, 2014 and announced in the May 2014 issue of CT magazine. 7. All entries become property of CT magazine (ACT Communications Inc.) which assumes no responsibility for printing error or lost or misdirected entries. No communication will be entered into except with the winning entrant. 8. One entry per person. Duplicate entries will be disqualified.

Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller T 57

USA

USA Only In The

SPECTACULAR SNOW, OUTSTANDING RESORTS, UNBEATABLE HOSPITALITY

Ski cOlOrAdO The greatest thing about Breckenridge – apart from its 954 hectares of terrain for all ability levels – is that it was founded by gold miners back in the 1850s, so it’s the real deal when it comes to old Wild Utah is particularly well-suited for family trips. The majority of its resorts are less than an hour from Salt Lake City International Airport, which means that you’ll spend less time in the car with the kids and more time enjoying the powder.

West towns. Aspen is famous for blackdiamond terrain and incredible après ski scene, and Telluride – the town where Butch Cassidy robbed his very first bank – a free gondola connects this charming town with the European-style luxury of the Mountain Village.

Ski utAH Known for some of the best powder in the world, skiing Utah is an absolute no-brainer, because the close proximity of the resorts provides a great excuse for powder hounds to sample multiple ski areas during one vacation. Canyons Resort is one of the largest resorts in North America, and Park City Mountain Resort is consistently ranked in the top five best ski resorts in the United States.

Ski cAliFOrniA California’s ski resorts, especially those around Lake Tahoe, experience some of the biggest snowfalls in the world. With almost 2,000 hectares of terrain to explore, Heavenly offers glorious tree-skiing. A Mecca for extreme skiers, Squaw Valley’s terrain is spread over six impressive peaks, and living up to its name, Mammoth Mountain is simply huge, providing some 1,416 hectares of terrain.

Ski new yOrk Tucked away in the hills of Ellicottville, power hounds will be happy to discover Holiday Valley Resort, with its 58 slopes spread over four mountain faces. This friendly resort is known for its 58 Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

PHOTO: uTAH OFFice OF TOuriSm

orget what they tell you in the old Beach Boys’ song…in the USA it’s not all about surfing; it’s about racing up the mountain to spend your day in an altogether cooler way. The infrastructure is unquestionable. The lift systems are outstanding, accommodation is abundant and the high levels of hospitality on offer are unbeatable. Oh, and did we mention the snow? When it comes to average annual snowfall, some 12 US ski resorts sit in the top 20 in the world. So no, not everybody’s gone surfin’ in the USA. You’ll find plenty of cool cats on the slopes.

“The lift systems are

PHOTO: Colorado Tourism Office/Matt Inden/Miles

PHOTO: Utah Office of Tourism

A skier gains big air during the super pipe competition at Aspen’s X-Games, Colorado.

great selection of terrain, its lake-effect snowstorms and the fabulous après on offer in the fun little Village of Ellicottville. It boasts five terrain parks, several glades, a wonderful children’s program, a mountain coaster and a tubing park.

Ski Pennsylvania Pennsylvania’s Pocono Mountains are a great option for families in search of deep snow, short lines, fast lifts and impeccably groomed trails. The mountains are home to 146 slopes and trails for all abilities. Woodloch Resort, which is nestled in the mountains, is a great choice for families,

outstanding, accommodation is abundant and the high levels of hospitality on offer are unbeatable. ” as it has been owned and operated by the Kiesendahl family since 1958. This four-season resort has a host of activities on offer to entertain kids from the age of 2 to 92, from snow-tubing to snowmobiling.

Heavenly Highlight Credit cards at the ready…US ski resorts are pretty unbeatable when it comes to

some serious retail therapy. Shopping options in Aspen go way beyond those for designer-loving divas. Prada? Yes, of course. Consignment stores? Absolutely! Alternately, check out Park City’s historic Main Street, which is lined with quaint shops and gorgeous galleries, or go bargain-hunting in the city’s Tanger factory outlet centre. Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller 59

USA

Holiday Valley THE PERFECT FAMILY GETAWAY

nuggled in the Allegany Mountains, just an hour south of the Peace Bridge and Buffalo, NY is the family-friendly resort of Holiday Valley in the cozy village of Ellicottville. The resort’s 58 slopes and 13 lifts are spread over four different mountain faces with pockets of interesting terrain hidden throughout. Happy Glade, one of four glades at Holiday Valley, is a kids’ delight with a gentle pitch and tightly packed evergreens that leads to a secret fort in the woods. Kid-size moguls, just perfect for learning to ski bumps, can be found on the moderately pitched Morning Star Slope. The Terrain Garden and Burton Riglet Park is a down-sized rail and snow park that gives kids (and parents) a place to learn how to ride and slide on non-intimidating terrain and features that are shorter and low

to the ground. Holiday Valley’s efficient lift system includes 11 family-friendly quad chairs (three of which are high speed), a handle tow and a magic carpet. Holiday Valley’s Mountain Adventures Children’s Snowsports School is the perfect place for kids as young as three to learn or improve skiing or snowboarding skills. Day Care, which can be combined with lessons, operates daily. The Tamarack Club and the Inn at Holiday Valley both offer ski-in, ski-out access, indoor/outdoor heated pools, hot tubs and saunas. Slope-side condominiums from Holiday Valley Property Management are a great choice for families who want extra living space and the convenience of a kitchen. Weekday lift and lodging packages include free lift tickets for up to two children, ages 17 and under.

Holiday Valley’s 58 slopes are spread over four different mountain faces.

Don’t forget, a family vacation is for moms and dads too...the full service Falling Waters Spa is located in the Tamarack Club, as is the lively John Harvard’s Brew House where over 20 craft beers are on tap. www.holidayvalley.com

Ellicottville NY

A Family Vacation, Close to Home The years of loose teeth and catching snowflakes on your tongue with your children will pass so quickly. Get away & get together at Holiday Valley, just one hour south of the Peace Bridge in fun loving Ellicottville, New York. Play on 58 slopes, chock-full of delights like Happy Glades, kid-friendly moguls, a secret fort in the woods and pint sized terrain parks, plus night skiing, tubing and a mountain coaster ride through the woods. Mountain Adventures lessons and on-site day care makes it easy for Mom and Dad too … not to mention the full service spa and John Harvard’s Brew House with local beers on tap. Lodging at the Tamarack Club offers slopeside convenience, a restaurant with room service and a heated indoor-outdoor pool and hot tubs. Sweeter yet, with a Tamarack January midweek package up to 2 kids ski and stay free! Packages start as low as $308 (usd) for a family of 4.

holidayvalley.com 60 Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

For reservations Call 1-800-323-0020 or visit holiday valley.com

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Pocono magic: a four-season escape for families since 1958.

Woodloch Pines THIS WINTER, THERE’S “SNOW COOLER” PLACE

hough the scenery is lush and green and the waters of Lake Teedyuskung are warm, make no mistake about it: in time, all 54.5 hectares of Woodloch Pines will transform from a picturesque summertime playground to a pearly white winter wonderland. Nestled in Pennsylvania’s Pocono Mountains and conveniently located off Interstate 84, Woodloch Pines Resort in Hawley, PA, has offered a four-season escape for families since 1958. In addition to delicious meals, spacious accommodations and world-class entertainment, Woodloch is a renowned winter playground where memories that last a lifetime are carefully constructed. “Give me snow, gravity, and some sort of sliding vessel, and I promise hours of fun,” says Joey Ranner, director of activities. “Sometimes we just need to start with the most basic principles of fun and build from there.” And boy, how Woodloch has built! So much, in fact, that they were recently named a “Top 10 Snow Resort” by Parents Magazine. A visit to the Pines during the winter months includes two man-made snow tube runs, which double as stages for this

62 Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

all-inclusive resort’s “famous” Family Winter Olympics. Teams compete against each other in six frosty relay-style events in hopes of earning coveted gold medals. Ignite rivalries as you challenge family and friends to plummeting races down our inclines, then journey out to the centre of our private lake for some good old fashioned pick-up shinny! For those guests who prefer to stay toasty, Woodloch offers organized children’s games, arts and crafts, bumper cars, indoor playgrounds and kiddie pools to keep children busy from dawn to dusk. Guests can learn the secrets of Woodloch’s famous cuisine during midweek cooking classes, and get their creative juices flowing in the popular head-to-head “Take the Cake” competition. Catch one of their unique trivia games, star on one of their “game shows,” or simply curl up alongside the fireplace with a favourite novel. No matter your tastes or inclinations, Woodloch has something to please all palates. Even more fun awaits in the Pocono Mountains with free midweek skiing at the nearby Ski Big Bear at Masthope Mountain. Traverse 18 freshly powdered trails for

all skill levels, then test yourself with their terrain park with jumps, rails, and more – just a short 10-minute drive from Woodloch’s property. Take advantage of a “Ski & Stay” vacation package this winter with rates starting at just US $155 per adult, per night, that includes two daily meals, nightly entertainment and all of the frolicking in the snow that you can handle! Get back to basics, head out into the elements and spend some time having fun with people you love most. There’s no “warmer” feeling in the world! Creating a magical experience for families, Woodloch Pines Resort’s signature warm hospitality keeps guests returning year after year and offers a truly unique all-inclusive family vacation experience fitting for everyone’s taste. An award-winning family resort, championship golf course and sister property featuring a luxury destination spa are just 152 scenic and convenient kilometres from New York City nestled in the Pocono Mountains Lake Region. Call (800) WOODLOCH (966-3562) for details.

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moments. It’s about quality time with family.

Woodloch is an all-inclusive family resort, championship golf course and luxury spa, nestled in the picturesque Pocono Mountains Lake Region.

#2 Resort for Families in America ~ TripAdvisor.com

TRIPADVISOR

TRAVELERS’ CHOICE ® 2013

Ski, Stay and Play packages start at $152 per adult per night (incl. 2 meals, skiing & endless action).

800.Woodloch | Woodloch.com

YOU’VE MASTERED THE MOUNTAIN. WE’VE MASTERED THE ALL-INCLUSIVE VACATION.

From

1 RESORT FEATURED EACH WEEK

January 18, 2014: La Plagne 2100 January 25, 2014: Chamonix Mont-Blanc February 1, 2014: La Plagne 2100 February 8, 2014: Peisey-Vallandry February 15, 2014: Chamonix Mont-Blanc February 22, 2014: Tignes Val Claret March 1, 2014: Chamonix Mont-Blanc March 15, 2014: Val d’Isère March 29, 2014: Peisey-Vallandry

$2,870* $2,580* $2,980* $3,380* $2,840* $3,810* $3,170* $3,250* $2,910*

Only Club Med offers a complete all-inclusive package: • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Controlled budget, prepaid in $ CAD Round-trip flights (Montréal/Geneva) Transfers from the Geneva airport to the resort Refined accommodations Delectable gourmet cuisine and snacks day and night Premium alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages day and night Lift tickets A ski guide from the French Ski School for ski classes or to accompany you throughout the ski domain in small groups Access to non-ski sports amenities at the resort Children’s Clubs from 4 years old An indoor or outdoor pool to relax Live nightly entertainment Kids under 4 stay for free**

For more information or to book, please contact your travel professional, call 1-800-CLUBMED or visit www.clubmed.ca. * Sample price is per person, based on double occupancy in a minimum category room for a 7-night stay in the featured Club Med resorts mentioned and for the departure dates mentioned. Limited time offer. For new bookings only for the departure dates mentioned. A 7-night minimum stay is required. Includes round-trip flights between Montréal and Geneva and transfers to the resorts mentioned. Blackout dates may apply. Subject to availability. Promotions may be changed or withdrawn at any time. ** Children under 4 years of age stay for free at the Club Med resorts mentioned above. Airline tickets for children must be paid for by the client. Children who are eligible to stay for free must be lodged in the same room as the adults who are paying for their stay, or in a connecting room. Blackout dates may apply. Club Med membership fees of $60 per adult and $30 per child are additional. Other restrictions may apply. Not responsible for errors or omissions. For travel services booked with a Québec Travel Consultant, prices do not include the clients’ contribution to the Indemnity Fund, which 13-1306-19 amounts $2.00 per $1,000 of travel services purchased. Québec permit

13-1306-19 Pub CanadianTraveler.indd 1

13-07-31 9:59 AM

LA by phone

Zuma, Malibu, Topanga, Venice, Manhattan and Hermosa... Surfers are spoilt for choice in LA.

1  LA FOR THE SOCIAL SAVVY Recommended by the web team at the Los Angeles Tourism and Convention Board, Citymaps is a new social map app that allows you to create and share maps of your favourite places in LA. Available across the States – and set to expand across the planet – Citymaps is one of the world’s first global social maps, featuring turn-by-turn directions, one-touch store finders and a stream of real time Instagram photos, menus and user comments.

Those hot dogs must be pretty good: Line-ups at Pink’s Hot Dogs, Hollywood.

APPS TO UNLOCK THE SECRETS OF THE CITY OF ANGELS  LA FOR STREET WISE GOURMETS

PHOTOS: LA TOURISM/MICHELE AND TOM GRIMM, TRAVIS CONKLIN

Could global social mapping systems be the secret to a successful city break?

Nothing drains the bank balance – and the good times – more than paying over the odds for some underwhelming food. Well, fear not, tight-fisted foodies! The Los Angeles Street Food app is here to ensure that you can eat like a LA native for under $20 a meal. Interactive maps, listings, reviews and picture slideshows reveal where you can find lipsmacking grub for a pittance. Bon Appétit!

3  LA FOR LOVERS OF THE LOCAL SCENE

Like a bottle of cyanide, the LA Urban Adventures Treasure mApp comes with a deliciously intriguing warning that is sure to tickle the curiosity of any Canadian adventurer worth their salt. This app states – and I quote – ‘WARNING: This is not your average tourist guide’. The app reveals the best places to people-watch, pick up unique souvenirs, indulge in the artsy side of the city, savour the best food and experience some nature. How does it work? Go for a wander around the city and when you’re near something that the Urban Adventures team thinks is pretty cool, you’ll get a little beep in your pocket. Fall 2013 Canadian Traveller 65

9:59 AM

LA by phone

A matter of perspective: Founded in 1979, the Museum of Contemporary Art is the only museum in LA that is devoted exclusively to contemporary art.

 LA FOR CULTURE VULTURES The Museum of Contemporary Art, the LA County Museum of Art and endless boutique galleries to explore... Is it really any wonder that the Canadian culture vulture doesn’t know where on earth to begin when they visit LA? Well, here’s the secret to artistic success in the City of Angels: the ArtConcierge Los Angeles app. This is funky stuff for the artsy crowd – we’re talking art fairs, exhibitions, VIP parties and fringe venues.

 LA FOR ONE-STOP-SHOPPERS

Shopping, dining, transit, beaches, yoga, nightlife...you name it: it’s on the Los Angeles Way - Everything Los Angeles app from MyCityWay. With more than 30 different categories, this is an impressive all-rounder. Get around better, faster and smarter and enjoy offline access to important information like bus and rail maps. Over five million people have used the MyCityWay guides to enhance their city experiences, and the LA Way app is perfect for those who like to make sure that they have all bases covered.

Luxury shopping at Rodeo Drive.

PHOTOS: LA TOURISM/TRAVIS CONKLIN

66 Canadian Traveller Fall 2013

CVB17

Central Florida’s Polk County is fast becoming “play-and-stay” central for families everywhere. Anchored by LEGOLAND® Florida – America’s newest kid-friendly theme park – our area offers a huge variety of unique attractions, natural wonders, tantalizing cuisine and sensational shopping to please everyone. For trip ideas, things to do and places to stay, log on and plan your escape today.

800-828-7655 facebook.com/VisitCentralFlorida

CVB1727 Canadian Traveler Family Traveler.indd 1

twitter.com/VisitCentralFL

7/17/13 1:24 PM

LESS IS BORE. pools

suites 565

bars

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unmarked pizzeria

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art-o-mat art machines

nightclub & dayclub

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