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CITY OF COWBOYS AND CULTURE
In only a few days, you can enjoy an enormous range of experiences – from art to animals, from fashion to family fun. See priceless masterpieces in the renowned Cultural District. Discover the true American West and view the world’s only twice-daily cattle drive in the Stockyards National Historic District. Shop and dine in the 35-block Sundance Square, one of the most exciting downtown areas in the nation. Visit Texas Motor Speedway, home to NASCAR and IndyCar races or play a round of golf at some of the finest greens in the nation. Just minutes from DFW International Airport, Fort Worth is the only city where cowboys and culture happily coexist. To request a complimentary Visitor Guide, please visit www.FortWorth.com FACEBOOK facebook.com/Ft.Worth
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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF/PUBLISHER Rex Armstead EDITOR Janice Strong STAFF WRITER-TORONTO Merle Rosenstein DESIGN AND EDITORIAL PRODUCTION Fusion FX Design & Marketing Inc. www.fusionfxdesign.com ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Brad Liski
WINTER 2012 • VOLUME 27 • ISSUE 12
WHERE NEXT? 12 ASIA ASIA’S BEST BEACHES
Fine Sand, Azure Waters, Drinks, Palm Trees, Even Massages – You Want It We’ve Found It
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CARIBBEAN EAST vs WEST
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Oxford, Windsor & The Thames River Path
SNAP SHOTS 6 Himalayan Biking…Italian
Kayaking…Vodou Magic… Saving Rhinos…Mayan Wonders…
Two Sides Of The Caribbean, Two Different Shore Experiences
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ENGLAND WALKING IN ENGLISH HISTORY
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ON THE COVER: Heading to the beach? Try something a little different – head to Asia. We’ve got 10 of the best places to work on your tan, starting on page 12. PHOTO CREDIT:
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SNAPSHOTS
ITALY
A Unique Perspective
Travelling by sea kayak with Tofino Expeditions gives you a unique perspective on Italy’s most beautiful panoramas as well as offering a an intimate experience of the Mediterranean’s authentic marineria culture (“life of the sea”).
Every day ends in a gorgeous boutique hotel or guesthouse where you can sit and enjoy the sunset, a glass of fine wine and the local Mediterranean cuisine. Dates: June 3 to 13, September 16 to 26, 2013. For more information, visit www.tofino.com
Italy by kayak.
ENGLAND Smugglers, Artists & Pilgrims Oh My “We are particularly excited about introducing walkers to two thousand years of British history as well as some of the most thrilling scenery in Europe,” says Jeff Kendrick, CEO of English Lakeland Ramblers about the company’s three newest tours. The Cornwall: Coastal England ramble, is a six-night, trip along the Southwest Coast Path past echoes of King Arthur’s knights, Daphne du Maurier’s Rebecca and the pilgrims bound for mystical St. Michael’s Mount. ©VISITBRITAIN/ROD EDWARDS
The “London and Cotswolds” tour takes in all the must-see sights of London and also incorporates walks through Inns of Court (the legal hub), a walking tour of Sir Christopher Wren’s historic churches, including his towering masterpiece,
St. Paul’s Cathedral as well as the gloriously picturesque Cotswolds. Lake District & Hadrian’s Wall features the 117-kilometre line of ramparts and forts across the north of England, built by the emperor Hadrian to keep the marauding Scots at bay. Between milecastles and Neolithic stone circles the itinerary takes in thoroughly English towns and lakes. For more inforwmation, visit www.ramblers.com.
Hadrian’s Wall.
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HIMALAYAS
Serious Biking Hearing the loud, dominant umpf from a 500cc Bullet Enfield really can awaken the hidden adventurer inside. Head out on the really, really open road with Extreme Bike Tours’ high altitude adventures through the Himalayan mountains. Led by Extreme Bike Tours founder, Zander Combe, bikers experience India on a deep cultural level discovering the ancient monasteries of Leh, encountering Buddhist monks and enjoying immeasurable scenic views along the way. “The Himalayan tours have some of my favourite routes,” he says. “It’s important for people to remember you don’t need to be an expert biker to come on these tours. Everyone can get something out of this!” The route of The Mighty Himalayan 1 runs between the Kullu Valley, and Ladakh, the most northern part of India known as ‘the land of high passes’. Tour dates are June 22 to July 7 and the July 13 to August 30, 2013. The Mighty Himalayan 2 itinerary takes adventurers from Delhi to Leh and features the world’s highest motorable pass. Tour dates are July 11 to 26 and August 17 to 31, 2013. Full itinerary for both trips available at http://extremebiketours.com
Immeasurable scenic Himalayan views.
EXTREME BIKE TOURS
Other highlights include exploring the crystalline waters of Sardinia and the Maddelena Archipelago, a national park and UNESCO World Heritage site, hiking to ancient ruins that date back to the Phoenicians and discovering Genoa’s medieval old quarter.
FLICKR
Starting in Genoa, this trip takes you along the coast of the Italian Riviera to the singular beauty of Cinque Terre National Park where you can explore the dramatic coastline of the five villages; sample local cuisine and, of course, vino delle Cinque Terre. Short hikes take you through vineyards and olive groves to visit local food producers and enjoy farmcooked meals.
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SNAPSHOTS
CANADA © MCC/ CMC, MARIE-LOUISE DERUAZ
It's Magic A powerful new exhibition at the Canadian Museum of Civilization brings museum-goers into direct contact with Vodou artifacts and the people who use them. This stunning combination of artifacts and videos looks beyond the myths and manufactured Hollywood images to reveal a vital spiritual and social force that remains, for many, an important part of daily life in Haiti. “Through this exhibition, visitors are given a rare opportunity to learn about a complex spiritual tradition, its beliefs and rituals, from the viewpoint of the people who practice it,” said Mark O’Neill, President and CEO of the Canadian Museum of Civilization Corporation. “Visitors will quickly see that Vodou, as presented at the Museum, has very little to do with the Hollywood version, its zombies and pins stuck in dolls.” The Canadian version of Vodou features Canadian-Haitian vodouists filmed during
an actual Vodou ceremony, and in videos in which they explain their worldview, history and beliefs underlying Vodou practices. The curators worked in close consultation with members of Haitian-Canadian communities to help ensure the authenticity of the exhibition. Vodou runs until February 23, 2014. For more information, visit www.civilization.ca
Pwen Ibo. Made by maji practitioners, they offer protection to those who request them.
Bryce Canyon Lodging & Activities
1-800-468-8660 www.rubysinn.com
1-866-866-6634
www.brycecanyongrand.com Closest Accommodations to Bryce Canyon National Park 8
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SNAPSHOTS
Considered Botswana’s Hidden Gem, Khama Rino Sanctuary just outside Gabarone, is the place to go to see rhinos and rhino conservation in action. As a community-based wildlife project, the sanctuary’s team has worked long and hard to assist in saving the vanishing rhinoceros, restore an area formerly teeming with wildlife to its previous natural state, and provide economic benefits to the local Botswana community through tourism and the sustainable use of natural resources. The
Rincon Tucson, Arizona
sanctuary also offers visitors a wide range of services including a variety of accommodation facilities ideal for families, groups or individuals; a full-service restaurant; environmental education centre and conference facilities; a curio shop; and self drive or guided safari around the park. Located near Serowe, the sanctuary can be added as a day trip or weekend excursion from Gaborone. For more information, visit www.khamarhinosanctuary.org.bw
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KOREA Hot Stuff
If you have ever travelled to Korea, you know about kimchi. Present at every meal, the pungent condiment is considered very healthy, and varies from region to region. Now you can become a kimchi master thanks to the condensed, yet authentic, kimchi-making program at the Kimchi Theme Park in Bucheon in Gyeonggi-do Province. The program starts with a general overview of kimchi followed by kimchi and kimchi sampling – there are several different kinds: pogi kimchi (kimchi made with whole Korean cabbage); baek kimchi (white kimchi made without red pepper powder); and bossam kimchi (brined Korean cabbage stuffed and wrapped in cabbage leaves). You choose the type you want to make, and takehome recipes are available. The Kimchi Theme Park is located near hanok accommodations and attractions featuring traditional weddings, folk games and other uniquely Korean experiences. For more information, visit www.visitkorea.or.kr
FLICKR/INDI SAMARAJIVA
A Passion For Rhinos
FLICKR/JOCELYN SAURINI
BOTSWANA
www.arizonaguide.com
MEXICO Celebrating The Maya
WE’LL SHOW YOU WHY PHOENIX ROCKS
Cancun’s Maya Museum is now open, celebrating the culture of the area’s oldest residents. Housed in a complex of five buildings, the Museum honours and explains the history and mysteries of this ancient civilization.
Visit MIM where you’ll hear, see, and feel the creative spirit of people from around the world playing their instruments.
Examine the remains of La Majer del Las Palmas (Woman of the Palms), a 10,000-year-old skeleton found in a cenote, then learn about her life through stone tools and the remains of wildlife found with her. In the nearby Sala Maya, discover aspects of Mayan architecture, art and other artifacts that ancient Mayans used on a daily basis. Sculptures and architectural fragments of Chichen Itza, the Yucatan and a collection of ancient engraved bricks from the city of Comalcalco in Tabasco are also exhibited. In all, 350 artifacts are on display throughout the Museum. The museum complex also includes The South, a collection of residential units, palace-style building and small altars; Dragons (named in the 1970s after an area where snake heads were found and mistaken for dragon heads) where you can see a temple adorned with fragments of ancient mural paintings of animals and marine elements.
Ranked as one of five must-see Phoenix attractions by CNN.
MUSICAL INSTRUMENT MUSEUM
MIM.org | 480.478.6000 | Open Daily 4725 E. Mayo Blvd., Phoenix, AZ 85050 (Corner of Tatum & Mayo Blvds., just south of Loop 101)
Next door, the San Miguelito archeological site recently opened as well. This location was inhabited over 800 years ago until the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors. Cancun’s Maya Museum and the San Miguelito archeological site are located on on Kukulkan Boulevard in Cancun’s Hotel Zone. Museum hours: Tuesday – Sunday 10 a.m. – 7 p.m. & Thursdays from 10 a.m. – 10 p.m. For more information, visit www.cancun.travel
CANCUN’S MAYA MUSEUM
Sala Maya, Cancun’s Maya Museum.
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TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND
ASIA'S BEST BEACHES
Fine Sand, Azure Waters, Drinks, Palm Trees, Even Massages – You Want It We’ve Found It. By Tim Johnson
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ASIA IS A VAST CONTINENT – A PLACE WITH HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OF KILOMETRES OF COASTLINE, THOUSANDS OF ISLANDS, AND MORE BEAUTIFUL, BLUE WATER THAN YOU CAN IMAGINE. WITH SUCH AN AMAZING ARRAY OF BEACHES, IT’S DEFINITELY TOUGH TO CHOOSE THE BEST – BUT WE’VE GIVEN IT OUR BEST SHOT. HERE ARE, IN OUR HUMBLE OPINION, THE TEN FINEST PLACES TO SWIM AND SUNTAN IN ALL OF ASIA. THAILAND
SUNRISE BEACH, KOH LIPE A small island in the southern reaches of the Andaman Sea, Koh Lipe was a largely undiscovered place – until now. This past year, National Geographic named the island to its short list of essential places to visit, calling the sands here “the perfect beach.” There are actually three beaches on Koh Lipe – Sunrise, Sunset and Pattaya – but no cars, paved road, or worries. The waters around the island are preserved as a national marine park, with the corals serving as home to some 25 per cent of all the world’s tropical fish species. While sophisticated resorts can be hard to find, the Idyllic Concept Resort – set on the sands of Sunrise Beach – provide stylish, modern accommodations just steps from the sand and within easy walking distance of all that the island has to offer. Roll in on a long-tailed boat, slip your shoes off to disembark, then stay that way for the duration of your stay.
MALAYSIA
PANTAI DALIT BEACH, BORNEO When people picture Borneo, they usually see dense jungle, headhunters and far-flung, exotic pleasures. And while you will get all of these (except, perhaps, the headhunters) on a visit to Borneo, the Malaysian part of the island is also emerging as a popular beach destination. And no wonder, with beaches like Pantai Dalit with six kilometres of sand on the warm waters of the South China Sea, backed by lush rainforest and impressive hotels like the ShangriLa’s Rasa Ria Resort, which offers luxury accommodations, pools, top-drawer cuisine and, perhaps most importantly, a 25-hectare Orangutan Education Centre; when you tire of tanning, come and observe these playful simians, a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
INDIA
CALANGUTE, GOA Once a refuge for hippies and other cultural dropouts, Goa retains its carefree feel. The state, which was long a possession of the Portugese, has a slightly European feel, and serves as a lower-impact experience for those new to the Subcontinent (people often call it “India Light”). Located in North Goa, Calangute has some of the very best beaches in the state, where loungers and palm-frond bars serving up fizzy beverages stretch as far as the eye can see. Grab a Kingfisher, recline by the water, hire one of the local women for a ten dollar massage, and embark on your own little cultural dropout.
Orangutan Education Centre, Shangri-La Rasa Ria Resort.
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FLICKR/PAUL MANNIX
TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND
SHANGRI-LA RASA RIA RESORT
Sunrise Beach, Koh Lipe.
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KUTA, BALI On an island that’s world-famous for its stunning natural beauty, it’s hard to pick just one beach, but Kuta – five kilometres of sand and wonderful, warm water – is among the very best, a popular place to chill under the sun that heats up with a party crowd every night of the week. You may be tempted to stay immobile – drink in hand – for the duration of your stay, but that would be a shame, as Bali is an island with so much to offer, from a bustling central market to the lovely temples, rice patties, monkey forest (with some 350 Macaque monkeys) and hand-carved masterpieces available in Ubud, a village up in the shady, cool mountains of inland Bali. Stay on the beach, or head to the nearby Ayana Resort and Spa, one of Asia’s top spa resorts, which sits atop a cliff and offers private villas (each with its own private pool) and the largest Aquatonic pool in the world.
TOP 3
ASIAN BEACH DRINKS Singapore Sling, Raffles Hotel.
FLICKR
INDONESIA
Kuta, Bali. SINGAPORE SLING: Although the Long Bar at the legendary Raffles Hotel – the birthplace of this exotic concoction of gin, Heering Cherry Liqueur, Cointreau, Grenadine and pinapple juice – is a long way from the beach, this is a Southeast Asian original, and it packs a nice, tropical punch. TOM YAM SIAM: This, Thailand’s hottest cocktail, includes a wild mix of flavours inspired by that country’s cuisine, including spirits infused with chili, kaffir lime and lemongrass.
FLICKR/EGUIDE TRAVEL
GIN AND TONIC: These two ingredients were first paired back in India’s colonial days, with the gin used as a way to help the British stomach their anti-malarial tonic. Now, it includes a refreshing slice of lime, and is best consumed seaside in Goa – or anywhere sunny, really.
Calangute, Goa.
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MANDARIN ORIENTAL SANYA
FLICKR/JASON PARIS
Beachfront luxury, Sanya Beach.
TOURISM MALAYSIA
Pantai Cenang.
Sunset over Indonesia.
INDONESIA
JAPAN NATIONAL TOURIST ORGANIZATION
BALEKEMBANG BEACH Located 60 kilometres south of the East Javan city of Malang, this sandy paradise, while collectively referred to by one name – Balekembang – is actually three separate beaches. All three (the other two are named Ngliyep and Sendang Biru) provide the opportunity for some of the best sunbathing in the world, but if you’re feeling adventurous, charter a boat out to Pulau Sempu, a small offshore island, or just walk to any of the three small islets that are attached to Balekembang by handy walkways. Then, when you’ve had your fill of relaxing, head back up to Malang, a well-known centre of batik artwork, temples and even a 85-hectare botanical garden.
CHINA
SANYA BEACH, HAINAN ISLAND This island city – one of the southernmost in the People’s Republic of China – is mainly known for two things. One: Its tropical climate. Two: The fact that it serves as the home training site of the Chinese national beach volleyball team. If that’s not enough to convince you to come to Sanya, consider the fact that it lies on about the same line of latitude as Hawaii, that water temperatures off Hainan Island never dip below a lovely 20 degrees Celsius, and that it is home to some of the best resorts in East Asia, including a Mandarin Oriental property that opened just three years ago.
THE BEST OF THE REST Soaking in a winter hot pool in Japan.
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Here are our Top 3 Runners-Up:
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• YUNOKAWA, JAPAN: This is a secluded spot bordered by hot springs, and a place where you can enjoy the unique winter pleasure of soaking in a hot pool while snow falls on the beach.
MALAYSIA
PANTAI CENANG, LANGAKAWI Less than an hour’s flight from the Malaysian capital of Kuala Lumpur, the island group of Langakawi is fast emerging as one of the country’s top beach destinations, with a number of top resorts (including a brand-new Four Seasons) raising their flags on these sunny isles. There’s plenty to keep you busy on this 104-island archipelago, if that’s what you seek, including a Sky Bridge (which is reached via cable car) that gives you a bird’s eye view of the dense rainforest canopy (which has been given World Geopark status by UNESCO). But we suggest that you head straight to Pantai Cenang, grab a coconut drink, soak up the sun under its many palms, take in a beautiful sunset, then hit the bars along the beach as the night heats up.
• PERHENTIAN ISLANDS, MALAYSIA: Home to a national marine park, the snorkeling and diving off the white sand beaches here gives swimmers a look at one of the most robust displays of marine life in Asia.
• BEIDAIHLE, CHINA: Many of China’s past rulers, including Chairman Mao, had villas here, and it’s still a great place to grab a cool beer and some seafood by the surf.
C E L E B R A T E T H E L O V E O F A L I F E T I M E our wedding and honeymoon is the most important time of your life. Occidental’s all-inclusive resorts can make the planning as simple as saying “I do”. Occidental has the experience, the expertise, the surroundings and the ambience to make your occasion an extra special one. Taking care of all the final details while you take home the memories of a lifetime, is Occidental’s promise.
w w w. O c c i d e n t a l H o t e l s . c o m For more information visit: www.occidentalhotels.com, call 416-935-1297 or e-mail: occidental@voxtm.ca. Packages available through preferred Canadian Tour Operators; to book your Occidental vacation please contact your Travel Agent. Occidental Hotels & Resorts represented in Canada by VoX International.
THAILAND
PARADISE BEACH, KO YAO NOI Called one of “Thailand’s last unspoiled islands” by The Guardian, this island – accessible only by boat – has a pace that any beach bum would love. With much of the area still undeveloped, this is the Thailand of yesterday, when people spent their days fishing on the water or swimming in the waves. For a true throwback, stay at Koyao Island Resort, a luxurious place with an infinity pool and plenty of spots to lounge on the warm waters of Paradise Beach, then bed down for the night in one of their beautiful bungalows, which are open to the beach and stars at the front, providing a perfect mix of comfortable interiors with the wonders of the tropical surroundings.
VIETNAM
FLICKR/EDDY MILFORT
BAI DAI BEACH, PHU QUOC ISLAND A long, narrow country with a seemingly unending coastline, Vietnam has more than its fair share of beaches. While it’s now one of Southeast Asia’s hottest destinations, a country that’s
wide open for foreign investment – and international visitors – Vietnam still has a few places that afford a slower, more relaxed pace, and Phu Quoc Island, a green, mountainous island with a relatively small population of fishermen, is definitely one. Located in the warm waters of the Gulf of Thailand, you can avoid the crowds and take your pick of calm, secluded, white sand beaches – Vung Bau is a half-moon of heaven, Cua Can is nothing but a lovely spit of sand, but our favourite – Bai Dai – is arguably the most pristine, a couple kilometres of sun, sand, and nothing else.
KOREA
JUNGMUN BEACH, JEJU ISLAND While Korea is rarely recognized as a tropical paradise, its Jeju Island has long been a favourite destination of domestic travellers looking to log some beach time. An isolated volcanic island that’s located well south of the Korean Peninsula, Jeju is home to a temperate climate, lovely mountains, scenic waterfalls, and one of the longest lava tubes in the world, as well as a number of great outdoor sports and activities, including fishing, golf and horseback riding. Or you could just head straight to Jungmun, the country’s southernmost beach, a scenic place with 600 metres of brown sand at the base of a series of cliffs that’s favoured by surfers and sun seekers alike.
ASIAN BEACH ODDITIES
Sometimes, going to the beach in Asia is just plain weird; here are three beach oddities from across the continent. 1. THE “FACEKINI”: While getting a great tan is a top priority for many beachgoers in North America, in China, where fair skin is considered more attractive, swimmers in the beach town of Qingdao are donning plastic face masks to avoid the sun – these headpieces, which resemble Mexican wrestling masks, have, inevitably, been dubbed the “facekini.” 2. SANDY BEDS: In the Batang region of Indonesia, residents of local fishing villages have traditionally opted to sleep on piles of sand, rather than mattresses or beds. Cool in the heat, warm on cold nights, and – according to the locals – containing medicinal properties, these sand beds are enjoyed by both rich and poor in the region. 3. COW BEACH: At this sunny spot in Goa, India, cattle – which are considered sacred on the subcontinent, and routinely roam unhindered through heavily populated places – are as common as sunbathers.
Phu Quoc Island. In Goa, cows are as common as sunbathers. 18
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FLICKR/CHRISTIAN HAUGEN
KOREA NATIONAL TOURISM ORGANIZATION TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND
Paradise Beach, Ko Yao Noi.
Jungmun Beach, Jeju Island.
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EAST VS WEST TWO SIDES OF THE CARIBBEAN, TWO DIFFERENT SHORE EXPERIENCES
CRUISERS ALL KNOW WHAT TO EXPECT FROM A CARIBBEAN CRUISE, WHETHER IT IS AN EASTERN ITINERARY OR A WESTERN ROUTE – SMOOTH SAILING, SUNNY SKIES AND ALL THE PAMPERED ATTENTION THE CRUISE LINES CAN OFFER. But what about off the ship? From history to cuisines, eastern ports of call are very different from western stops. We asked two cruise experts to tell us about their favourite shore excursions, and here’s what they had to say.
EAST
WEST
Atlantis Resort, one of the most popular shore excursions in Nassau.
Dig A Little Deeper To Find Caribbean Surprises Text and photos by Aaron Saunders
Rated as one of the world’s top five diving destinations, Cozumel is also the access point for the Mayan ruins at Tulum.
MORE THAN A SAILING ILING TRIP
Despite being one of the most popular itineraries in the world, many Eastern Caribbean cruises seem to offer the same assortment of ports from one cruise line to the next. But if you look closer, there’s a whole world of adventure to be had in these sunsplashed islands. All you have to do is dig a little deeper. So how do I spend my time whenever I sail the Eastern Caribbean run? Here are a few of my favourite excursions to take while ashore.
SERGE MELKI
OFF FF THE BEATEN N PATH
By Toby Saltzman
Shore Excursions Make The Memories On A Western Caribbean Itinerary
CASTRIES, ST. LUCIA Although it could be considered part of the Southern Caribbean, St. Lucia works its way into many Snorkeling through crystalline waters as the sun’s rays streamed over longer Eastern Caribbea kaleidoscopic garden of coral reef, I was living a dream sparked long an itineraries, and it’s ago by a film clip of Jacques Cousteau. As tropical fish flashed by, their not difficult to see why. After mulneon hues glowing in the light, I recalled the French explorer’s description tiple visits to of the brilliant underwater world surrounding Cozumel, Mexico’s largest island, the island famous lying 19 kilometres off the Yucatan Peninsula: “No aquarium, no tank in a marine
land…can begin to duplicate the conditions of the sea.” Navigating with flippers, I motioned to my husband, Ken, to follow a trio of purple-and-silver striped fish as they waved between clusters of feathery yellow plants, dipping to nibble at orange coral. Back on shore, we agreed: nothing can duplicate the personal experience of being here. Years later, vivid memories still linger of this and other travel dreams realized while cruising. Caribbean West cont pg 22 WWW.CANADIANTRAVELLER.NET CANADIAN TRAVELLER • WINTER 2012
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EAST
WEST
ADALBERTO H VEGA
At the Roatan Institute of Marine Science you can interact with the playful dolphins in waist-deep water in a protected cove.
for its large and small land masses known as The Pitons, I am still finding things I enjoy about it. While an excursion to the beautiful town of Soufriere is always an excellent choice, I discovered a brilliantly enjoyable way to explore off-the-beaten path here: the three-and-a-half-hour Lucian Style Segway excursion. If you’ve never had the chance to ride a Segway, For cruise enthusiasts like us – whose interests span the globe – a they’re a lot of fun. Surprisingly intuitive, once you beautiful ship is a destination unto itself, but our pleasure magnifies get the hang of it. And when you do – and you will, with tantalizing experiences. Take the Western Caribbean itinerthanks to a simple test-course – it makes a fantastic way ary: more than sailing in sparkling waters and sunny weather, it’s to explore this island. a route to a myriad of natural splendours, the mystic realm of Along the way, we stopped at Pebble Beach and spent Mayan culture, and all the adventure you dare to try. some time poking around the sealed-up bunkers and tunnels Cozumel, for example – which is rated as one of the that are still inset into the pristine hillside. They were built during world’s top five diving destinations – offers easy viewing the Second World War by, and for, the American military. of its marine life via a scenic ride in the Atlantis SubmaAt Mount Pimard, one of the highest spots on the island, we rine. Beyond the sea, the island provides a fascinatstopped for fresh fruit and refreshments, overlooking some of the most ing introduction to the ancient Mayans if you visit stunning vistas in the Caribbean. Tulum. Here, remnants of pyramids and temples Perhaps most importantly, the people who run this tour are first-class still hold court over the sea, legacies of the entreall the way. When my fiancée fell off the Segway and skinned her elbow – preneurial civilization that ran a brisk trade after proclaiming herself “the Segway Master” – our guide kicked into action, centuries ago. Adventurous types can take cutting off a branch of a nearby aloe a jaunt to the jungle interior to see the onplant and putting the fresh aloe over going archeological excavations at San her wound after cleaning it. Gervasio, itself a haven for multicoInitially, I was a reluctant participant in loured species of birds, butterflies the whole thing. Now, I can’t imagine having and iguanas. spent my day any other way. Reputed as the birthplace of Mayan culture, NASSAU, BAHAMAS Though technically located Santo Tomas, Guain the Bahamas (and as such in the Western Atlantic), temala provides a Nassau is a veritable staple of the Eastern Caribbean Caribbean West cont pg 24 itinerary. Chances are good that at some point during your Caribbean sojourn you’ll find yourself up on deck as your ship sails past the iconic pink Atlantis Resort. And as I discovered, you may as well give in to temptation here and do what everyone else will likely be doing: taking an excursion to spend the day at the Resort. Caribbean East cont pg 24
Philipsburg and neighbouring Marigot offer plenty of European flair. 22
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Some of the most pristine views of St. Lucia can be had from a Segway.
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The author and his fiancee on an off-road Segway in Castries, St. Lucia.
A tranquil spot in Philipsburg.
Perfect For Newbies If you’re a novice cruiser, the Eastern Caribbean offers the perfect introduction to a vacation at sea. And if you’re a seasoned sailor yawning at the idea of this itinerary, you can still find plenty to discover beyond the obvious There’s plenty of choice in cruise length, ranging from weekend and three- or four-night sailings to 10 nights and more. And there’s an equally wide choice in budget range, from super-bargains through moderate and up to super-luxury. The major departure points are Miami and Ft. Lauderdale, but other East Coast ports offering this itinerary include New York City, and Charleston, SC. 24
Here’s the deal: Atlantis boasts more waterslides, waterparks, and activities than you can shake the proverbial stick at. There’s a 2.8-hectare lagoon and an archaeological maze (representing the legendary lost city of Atlantis) known as The Dig and boasting over 50,000 creatures representing some 250 marine species. If you have kids, an excursion to Atlantis is a no-brainer. Heck, if you’re just looking for a fun way to spend the afternoon, it’s tough to go wrong with these popular excursions that range from just a few hours to all-day extravaganzas. PHILIPSBURG, SAINT MAARTEN It’s hard not to like Philipsburg. After all, the beach and the main town are just a five-minute water taxi ride away, and plenty of retail therapy can be found by wandering up and down the rows of quaint shops situated nearby. But the Dutch capital of Philipsburg is just half of what makes this island unique. If you’re looking for a little slice of Europe in the Caribbean, “St. Martin Under Two Flags” takes you from the Dutch side of St. Maarten to the French side (St. Martin) of the island and its capital, Marigot With an excursion to Marigot, you can browse the unique shops, indulge in the open-air markets in the French Quarter, and sample some of the delicious, French-inspired cuisine. Close your eyes, and it isn’t difficult to imagine yourself in the south of France. It’s like travelling to Europe without actually being there. Caribbean East cont pg 26
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more intimate look at Mayan culture. Populated today by descendants of the ancient people who proudly showcase their colourful traditions, dress and handihandi crafts, Santo Tomas is a convenient gateway to the most secluded and spectacular Mayan ruins in both Guatemala and Honduras. Quirigua National Park – a veritable gem of archeology – has towering temples and a palace accented by huge stone monuments depicting mythological animals. Take a scenic river ride to the Ak-Tenamit Community to meet local artisans. Or join a nature trek to Las Escobas Springs Reserve: known for cascading waterfalls, exquisite flora and fauna, it is a magnet for international biologists, scientists and naturalists who come to study the thriving ecosystem. For serious explorers, two cruise lines offer exceptional experiences from Santo Tomas. Holland America Line (HAL) offers unique tours with its “Wonders of the World Collection” and Silversea offers signature excursions with its “Silver Shore Expeditions”. Both include a flight to Tikal, the UNESCO World Heritage site known for remarkable Mayan excavations, including the famed Palace of the Masks, Acropolis temples that tower above the trees, and Temple IV, the tallest preColumbian structure in the Western Hemisphere. Intriguing for its gorgeous location at the southern tip of the world’s second-largest barrier reef, Roatan, Honduras beckons with eco-adventures. A favourite excursion visits the Roatan Institute of Marine Science for a briefing about dolphins, Caribbean West cont pg 26
BELIZE TOURISM BOARD
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A mélange of beaches, tropical forests and mountains, Belize boasts adventures galore, including a river tube float through deep caves.
So someone tried to describe to you how Miami’s so different, so exciting and so not your commute. Know this. No tweet, snapshot or posting will ever be enough. You so have to visit to get it. MiamiandBeaches.com © Greater Miami Convention & Visitors Bureau – The Official Destination Marketing Organization for Greater Miami and the Beaches.
Aviation buffs won’t want to miss one other spectacle: Princess Juliana International Airport and its approach runway that takes widebody commercial airliners like the Boeing 747 right over the swimmers off Maho Beach. Hop a taxi here for a real rush!
WEST VISIT FLORIDA
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Historic sites in Key West include President Truman’s Little White House (pictured) and the quaint Hemingway House, where Ernest wrote most of his novels and short stories.
followed by a chance to personally interact with the forest in zip-lining BioMaya Canplayful creatures in waist-deep water in a protected opy Experience. For active types, ROAD TOWN, TORTOLA The capicove. It’s worth visiting the Mayan Eden eco-park guided safaris explore jungle trails tal of the British Virgin Islands, Road for a guided hike through virgin jungle at Ocelot in 4x4 jeeps, ATVs or bicycles. At the Town is one of the most scenic ports Mountain, where you are destined to spy mon- Chacchoben ruins, climb the towyou can call on in the Eastern Caribbean keys frolicking from tree to tree, chattering ering Gran Basamento pyramid, – and that’s saying a lot. Road Town is parrots and bright species of flora, including and learn how the descendants of a brilliant place to stroll around, casually bromeliads and rare orchids clinging to trees. the ancient Mayan people still use shop, or just escape to the beach. But there Dubbed as “Yucatan’s quiet coast,” plants for medicinal healing. is one thing that everyone who comes here Costa Maya – a paradise of sandy beaches Nestled between Guatemala has to experience: an excursion to the Baths fringing virgin rain forests – invites ex- and Mexico, the tiny country of Beat the Virgin Gorda. treme sportsmen as much as leisurely lize beckons with escapades among Made up of boulders formed by the types who prefer to sit back with local its splendid natural sites and Maisland’s volcanic origins and eroded down over beer or a frosty margarita. Just off its yan ruins. A mélange of beaches, hundreds of years, the Baths, as they’re known, coast, the Chinchorro reef lures div- tropical forests and mountains, Beform natural tidal pools, caves, arches and cozy ers to explore centuries-old ship- lize boasts the longest barrier reef grottoes that just beckon you to come closer. Flip wrecks. One of the most popular in the Western Hemisphere. Board open the pages of nearly any Caribbean cruise bro– though breathtaking – excur- a river tube to float through deep chure, and you’re sure to see a snapshot of these often sions is to fly through the rain- caves, or join a river expedition to other-worldly geological formations. If lots of cruise ships are in port it can get quite busy Caribbean West cont pg 28 here, so I always try to take one of the earliest excursions off Populated today by descendants of the ancient Maya, Santo Tomas in the ship. But a visit is tremendously worthwhile. SAN JUAN, PUERTO RICO There’s nothing like an excursion to Old San Juan. The imposing seaside San Felipe del Morro Fortress is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and a must-see attraction in its own right. Much of San Juan’s history either directly or indirectly involved the fortress, constructed between the 15th and 19th centuries. But the walking excursion is a great way to experience more of this historic city, including Quincentennial Square, Cristo Street and the San
Guatemala is a great place to see their colourful traditions, dress and handicrafts, and a convenient gateway to the spectacular Mayan ruins in both Guatemala and Honduras.
Caribbean East cont pg 28
RICARDO HURTUBIA
Viewpoint over Charlotte Amalie on St. Thomas.
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GRAND TURK SALT CAY SOUTH CAICOS EAST CAICOS MIDDLE CAICOS NORTH CAICOS PROVO WEST CAICOS AMBERGRIS CAY PARROT CAY PINE CAY
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Let THE Adventure
BEGIN Turks & Caicos Tourist Board • Canada Office: 1-866-413-8875
EAST
Juan Bautista Cathedral, containing the tomb of explorer Juan Ponce de Leon, who became the first Governor of Puerto Rico and was credited with discovering (and naming) Florida while searching for The Fountain of Youth. ST. THOMAS, US VIRGIN ISLANDS Charlotte Amalie, the capital of St. Thomas, is a beautiful city of around 20,000 inhabitants that routinely sees its population nearly double during the height of the Caribbean season. Nestled amid the lush, rolling hills and picturesque bay, it’s also one of the Eastern Caribbean’s largest shopping meccas. I have seen tourists nearly lose their minds here as they frantically race back and forth from stores selling Tshirts, alcohol, diamonds and watches. But when I’m in St. Thomas, I like to get out of St. Thomas and save the duty-free shopping for the airport. And there’s no better way to do that than with an excursion to the nearby island of St. John.
For many, the Island of St. Maarten is a paradise of sand, sun, and cool blue sea.
The St. John Island Tour lets you spend about four hours exploring this historic, picturesque locale. It provides a great overview of an island most visitors to St. Thomas miss, and a stop at Cruz Bay near the end of the tour provides a chance for a different shopping experience. My favourite part of the tour is Cinnamon Bay. It’s absolutely breathtaking with its nearly-transparent waters and lush, green hills. Bring extra memory cards for your camera! Looking to find a (relatively) quiet escape from Charlotte Amalie without leaving the island? The three-hour Magen’s Beach Getaway is a great excursion for those who want to relax and soak up the sun, or even for aspiring photographers looking to get that one snapshot that will make your friends, family and co-workers jealous. It’s that beautiful. And there’s nothing wrong with a little jealousy.
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Dubbed “Yucatan’s quiet coast,” Costa Maya is a paradise of sandy beaches and virgin rain forests that invites extreme sportsmen as much as leisurely types who prefer to sit back with local beer or a frosty margarita.
the Lamanai Temples, where sacred deities are immortalized in stone sculptures. Join a guided trip that sends you soaring like a bird on a zip-line to a 30-metre-high crevassed rock wall, then rappelling down its sheer side. Or participate in Silversea’s thrilling “Silver Shore Expeditions” on a “Raiders of the Lost Mayan Caves Ultimate Aventure” which includes a trek through the Bilezean jungle, zip-lining over the jungle floor, swinging on suspension bridges, and travelling through caves filled with stalactites and stalagmites. Less exotic, but definitely lovely for its location in shimmering turquoise waters and laid back atmosphere, Key West is typically the first or last call on a Western Caribbean itinerary. The southernmost city in the continental United States, Key West’s charms are easily explored on foot, or by hopping on and off a local trolley. Among its prime sites, my favourites include: President Truman’s Little White House, loaded with historic memorabilia; and the quaint Hemingway House, where Ernest Hemingway wrote most of his novels and short stories. For sporty folks, there’s sea kayaking, catamaran cruising and deep-sea fishing. But we love to stroll down to the foot of Whitehead Street, tuck our toes into the southernmost swath of sandy beach and gaze out to where the horizon meets the western sea. We know Jacques Cousteau would approve.
If You Go: Two cruise lines offer outstanding Western Caribbean itineraries with thrilling experiences. • Holland America Line’s 7-day cruise aboard the loops from Tampa. Check out its “Wonders of the World Collection experiences.”
YUCATAN
• Silversea’s 8-day cruise aboard the Silver Spirit, loops from Fort Lauderdale. Check out its unique “Silver Shore Expeditions.”
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HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY (HTA)/TOR JOHNSON
Aah
Kaua‘i Kaua‘ The Perfect Spot For A Perfect Family (Ohana) Vacation To Relax, Refresh & Rejuvinate
By Rex Armstead
When three generations look for somewhere to spend time together the options appear unlimited – until that is you really start to define exactly what the six-, thirty-sixand sixty-six-year-olds really want from their family vacation. Having thoroughly enjoyed a previous vacation in Kaua‘i, it was not difficult for the “wrinklies” to convince everyone that it was the perfect destination when the primary requirements were that it be somewhere safe but a little exotic; where we could all enjoy guaranteed warm weather and some “soft” adventure…and relax! We also did not want to break the bank by eating out all the time so accommodation with a good kitchen was essential, as we love good food. Nightlife was not big on the agenda but nature, beaches and snorkeling very definitely were. Kaua‘i is the most northerly, oldest, and has the most beach
per kilometer of coastline of all the major Hawaiian Islands. Aptly named the “Garden Isle” it boasts a varied climate that, because of its relatively small size, you can manage to your advantage. From lush tropical rain forests to arid near-desert you can almost choose your daily environment. If it’s too hot – take to the hills and rivers; raining – go to the dry West Side; windy – go to the other side. An hour’s drive can significantly change your day and it all starts with Mount Wai’ale’ale, an extinct volcano rising over 1,500 metres roughly in the centre of the Island. One of the wettest places on earth
WWW.CANADIANTRAVELLER.NET CANADIAN TRAVELLER • WINTER 2012
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DARRIN ARMSTEAD
When it comes to hiking, Kaua‘i can claim some of the best in the Islands from romantic sunset beach walks to the 17-kilometre overnighter on the Napali Coast; we limited ourselves to easy trails in Koke’e State Park where the higher elevation kept things cool.
Wai’ale’ale is usually shrouded in cloud and records over 10,000 mm of rain per year. But don’t worry about that – it doesn’t affect the beach areas and it’s actually a huge bonus as it feeds the unique, permanently flowing rivers. Kaua‘i’s gentle climate and lush environment are two of its greatest at attributes and work their magic on young and old alike – refreshing both body and spirit so that in just a few short days the sought-after state of complete re relaxation has been achieved. Our origi original schedule of trying to do two things each day rapidly declined to one per day and that soon became every other day as the beauty, beaches and balmy weather combined to make it just too much effort to do anything much more than just soak it all in – and enjoy be being together as a family and doing those activities which worked for each of us at the time. Frequently a book for Gran Grandad, sun for Mom and Grammy and the pool for Dad and six year-old Tristan and any friends he picked up along the way as kids always do. If it is frenetic nightlife you yearn for, Kaua‘i is probably not for you but what it does offer is the opportunity to experience and enjoy nature’s bounty your way. You can partake in virtually any outdoor activity at any level or just enjoy the slower rural pace and friendly people, or pamper yourself at one of the many spas. Of one thing you can be certain – at some point in your Kaua‘i vacation
REX ARMSTEAD
Tristan and one of the “girls” at the Kaua‘i Kunana Dairy outside Kilauea, a family run business with a mixed herd of goats who chomp down happily on the supplied feed – and your sleeve.
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you will, as recommended by Grammy, take a deep breath and exhale, shedding the pressure and worries of work and home – and replace them with a deep sense of peace, well being and contentment at being in one of the world’s most beautiful places. Rejuvenation cannot be far behind. WHERE WE PLAYED The North Shore: We stayed in the resort area of Princeville for six days and enjoyed the shopping in Princeville Center and Hanalei where Tristan got his bright red ukulele and we all enjoyed Kaua‘i Nut Roasters crunchy delights. The Hanalei Valley, besides being truly beautiful and producing most of the state’s kalo (taro) is also a wildlife refuge with good birding. Tours of the farm are available. While we enjoyed ‘Anini Beach (very safe) and Hanalei Bay, there are, literally, dozens of great beaches on the North Shore, some of which are renowned for surfing and the snorkelling can also be very good. We spent a memorable afternoon at Na Aina Kai near Kilauea. The 97 hectares of gardens incorporate a hedge maze, a waterfall, a koi-filled lagoon, a forest of 60,000 hardwood trees, miles of trails and a secluded beach – all comple complemented by 130 carefully situated bronze sculptures by over 65 artists. The effect is amazing. Six different guided tours are available for groups no larger than ten and we chose the family tour, which includes the “Under the Rainbow” chil children’s garden where Tristan was able to safely unleash the energy he built up during the tour. Tours last two to five hours and cost between $20 and $85pp. The Kaua‘i Kunana Dairy outside Kilauea is a family run business and Ryan and Sarah Wooton take great delight in introducing you to their 60 ‘girls’ – a mixed herd of goats who chomp down happily on the supplied feed – and your sleeve. The males are kept way away by themselves as they are grumpy and smelly – Ladies, no comments please! A two-hour tour ($20pp) provides samples of their eight flavoured goat cheeses (the passion fruit is to die for) as well as tastings of more than a dozen varieties of exotic fruits picked as you stroll the certified organic farm. The highlight of our time on the North Shore was Kilauea Lighthouse – a stunning combi-
crhkauai.com/catrav
Denny Wong Marahlago Koa Wood Rings Mikel
Hanalei Center: 808-826-6654 Toll Free: 877-826-0020 www.jewelofparadise.com
800-225-2683 toll free www.whalerscoveresort.com stay@whalerscoveresort.com
KAUA‘I BACK COUNTRY ADVENTURES
The Kaua‘i Backcountry Adventures’ mountain tubing adventure uses exclusive access to the 6,868 hectares of the Lihu‘e Plantation, which stopped producing sugar in 2000, and the irrigation canals and tunnels dug circa 1870.
nation of dramatic cliff and ocean scenery and superb bird watching with albatross, frigate birds, shearwaters, tropic birds and boobies too numerous to count. A great family excursion and worth every penny of the $5 entry.
WESTIN PRINCEVILLE OCEAN RESORT VILLAS
The East Side: We only stopped once on the “Coconut Coast”, in Hanama’ulu early one morning to sign on for the Kaua‘i Backcountry Adventures’ mountain tubing adventure. KBA have exclusive access to the 6,868 hectares of the Lihu‘e Plantation, which stopped producing sugar in 2000, and the irrigation canals and tunnels dug circa 1870. Arriving at the drop-in point, we donned our safety helmets and headlamps, mounted our tubes and were immediately off into our first tunnel, bouncing off the walls and each other accompanied by much laugh laughter. This continued for the next hour or so, until we reached the pull-out point where we dried off in clean
A keiki (children’s) pool with spouting honu (turtles) and slide, an almost hourly roster of activities, Westin Kids Club and poolside barbeques keep the young ones happy at the Westin Princeville Ocean Resort Villas.
field facilities and were served a good, make-your-own sandwich picnic lunch. All in all, a thoroughly enjoyable morning for $102pp. Lihu‘e: Just below the Coconut Coast in the southeast corner is the county seat of Lihu’e. Here you will find the major shopping malls and department stores as well as the Kaua‘i Museum, which is well worth a visit. At the Kilohana Plantation we had a delightful family lunch in the refurbished Gaylord’s Restaurant and then took the Kaua‘i Plantation Train ride around the estate. Seeing how many of the exotic fruits we had enjoyed were actually grown and jumping down from the train to feed the pigs ranked well up Tristan’s list of favourites. We took the short ride but there is a two-hour one including lunch for those who want to learn more. Afterwards the ladies toured the shops while the men checked out the Koloa Rum free tasting room – all well worth a visit and very reasonably priced.(Train $18pp/ children $13) I have included the helicopter tour here as we boarded in Lihu’e. This year Jack Harter Helicopters, who started it all, celebrate 50 years of operating helicopters on Kaua‘i. They are the only ones to offer full 60- and 90-minute tours, have moved the passenger seat to the right side to give the best view and on some flights have taken the doors off for a more exhilarating flight. According to Dad, the narrative was “fantastic” and unique to the pilot who was obviously a hiker and pointed out many of the trails and “secret” destinations including a picnic table at the top of a cliff. He would recommend taking the
REX ARMSTEAD
Kilauea Lighthouse – a stunning combination of dramatic cliff and ocean scenery and superb bird watching is a great family excursion and worth every penny of the $5 entry.
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Waves gently breaking on the rocks just a metre or two below the lawn, a nice pool with barbecues and conveniently located for magical Po‘ipu Beach Park make Whaler’s Cove Resort perfect for families.
ACTIVITIES Outdoors: This is where Kaua‘i truly comes into its own. There is not a single outdoor activity that cannot be enjoyed at its best in magnificent surroundings except jet skiing and paragliding which, thankfully, are both outlawed. While you may wish to bring some of your own gear – anything and everything is available for
REX ARMSTEAD
The West Side: Again our time was limited here and we did not explore the arid West Side beaches except for Salt Pond Beach where they still produce salt in
evaporating ponds and where we stopped on our way to “must see” Waimea Canyon and Koke’e State Park. There are several lookouts at which you can stop, but Waimea Canyon Lookout, where you can watch Yellow-tailed Tropicbirds rejoicing in the thermals created by the 1,000-metre-deep canyon tops them all. Unless, that is, you drive further in – and you should – to the Kalalau and Pu’u o Kila Lookouts where you will be treated to awe-inspiring views of the uninhabited Napali Coast’s Kalalau Valley. The Koke’e Museum is worth a visit and the adjacent nature trail should be as well but is in need of some maintenance. The park itself is beautiful with great hiking trails for all ages.
WHALER’S COVE OCEANFRONT LUXURY AT PO‘IPU
tour early in your vacation as the pilot gives all kinds of advice on the sites to see and how best to get there. The scenery, particularly the green walls and waterfalls of the Wai’ale’ale Crater are literally breathtaking – it’s an experience not to be missed unless you suffer from motion sickness, which, unfortunately, spoiled it for both Mom and Tristan. Driving tip: when heading west out of Lihu’e try the more southerly and much more scenic backroads that take you past the Huleia Wildlife Refuge and Menehune Fishpond. The South Shore: We spent eight days in sunny Po’ipu – and were lucky enough to see five of the rare Monk Seals, one of whom the volunteers hoped was a pregnant female. Kudos to the volunteers who put rope barriers around the seals sleeping on the beaches – and the concerned citizens who drew lines in the sand before the volunteers got there to keep away the less informed tourists. Please stay well away! By the time we reached our condo at Whalers Cove we were on Island Time and activities, aside from the ever-popular pool, had dwindled to one a day – maximum – and they were usually beach related. Excursions to Spouting Horn and Old Koloa Town were interspersed with visits to Baby Beach, Po‘ipu Beach Park (the best) and almost deserted Maha’ulepu Beach. There are good restaurants and shopping in Po‘ipu, Koloa and the new, upscale Shops at Kukui’ula, part of a major new development completed just this year.
Rare Monk Seals hauled out to sleep on the beach in Po‘ipu. Volunteers put rope barriers around them to keep away the less informed tourists. WWW.CANADIANTRAVELLER.NET CANADIAN TRAVELLER • WINTER 2012
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CASEY RIEMER-JACK HARTER HELICOPTERS
rent and it’s worth checking out a few locations as prices can vary considerably. Water: Nowhere else in the Islands will you find the variety and quality of salt- and particularly freshwater, activities available on Kaua‘i. From sunset sailing cruises and powerboat excursions to the fabled Napali Coast to paddle boarding and river or ocean kayaking; from swimming and snorkeling to scuba and SNUBA (no training necessary but you get to swim underwater!); big game to bass fishing; from boogie boarding to surfing and wind/kitesurfing – it’s all good and available if not necessarily cheap. Whale-watching is best from December to April and boat trips are also available to view the ‘forbidden’ island of Ni‘ihau. Land: Again the options are varied and exciting. Just driving at a leisurely pace and stopping at the many scenic lookouts is all well and good, but you can also shake your skeleton on a wild backcountry ATV trip; you can bike the flat first section of the coast path in Kapa’a or you can zoom down the Waimea Canyon Road and there are great mountain biking trails too; you can stroll through peaceful tropical gardens or zip-line the forest canopy. Municipal tennis courts are free but there are also private ones for rent; you can camp and go horseback riding. When it comes to hiking, Kaua‘i can claim some of the best in the Islands; romantic sunset beach walks can be a daily ritual but there are hundreds of different hikes to suit all ages and abilities. Hiking to a waterfall is a “must do” but perhaps the most special, for experienced hikers only, is the 17-kilometre overnighter on the Napali Coast – the rugged Kalalau Trail. We limited ourselves to easy trails in Koke’e State Park that the whole family could enjoy and where the higher elevation kept things cool. The golf is pretty good, too, with ten courses at seven venues to choose from. Not being golfers we can’t offer personal comment but suffice it to say that they are designed by some of the best (Nicklaus, Trent Jones Jr.), have received accolades from top golf publications and without doubt have some of the most beautiful locations in the world. Fees range from $50 on the Wailua municipal course to $240 at Princeville and Po’ipu. Air: According to Andrew Doughty, author of the Ultimate Kaua‘i Guidebook, “visiting Kaua‘i and not taking a helicopter trip is like going to the Sistine Chapel and not looking up.” There are numerous helicopter and airplane tours available and you can also fly on a powered hang glider or go skydiving. All you need is a strong stomach. Spectacular Wailua Falls is just one of hundreds of waterfalls, and easily accessible. Many can only be seen from a helicopter.
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THE FINER THINGS Dining: There is no question Kaua‘i is home to some really good restaurants representing cuisine from around the world with a strong Asian influence. However, we found dining out for the
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COMPLIMENTARY VALET PARKING
HTA/TOR JOHNSON
The stunning Napali Coast is only accessible by boat, or, for experienced hikers, the rugged Kalalau Trail
family a bit pricey so we compromised and frequently had lunch, which is much more reasonably priced, out and then cooked for oursj12 elves in the evening. This also worked well for our grandson who got to sleep at a reasonable hour and still got read to every night – and for the adults who could occasionally get a night to themselves when one couple babysat and one went out. Farmers’ Markets: Every day there is at least one market and sometimes three. County sponsored ones are called Sunshine Markets, but whatever they are called, the produce is invariably fantastic, albeit not cheap. Get there early if you can because the best sells out quickly. Roadside stands can also be good and we were lucky enough to be there when the lychees were in season. Buy a bag from a local kid sitting under a tree by the side of the road and enjoy a true seasonal delicacy. Spas: From ultra high-end luxury spas and “well-being” centres in the major resorts to local in-home massage, the choice is plentiful and varied.
WHERE WE STAYED Westin Princeville Ocean Resort Villas: Arriving late at night the Heavenly Beds got thumbs up all around and waking to a tropical early morning of sun and birds, including the ubiquitous Kaua‘i rooster, got the vacation off to a perfect start. With 350 rooms (villas) in seven buildings nestled in seven lush hectares on a bluff 61 metres above ‘Anini beach on Kaua‘i’s North Shore, the Westin Princeville was a great choice with all the facilities our family could need: four pools, including a multi level main pool with whirlpool and hot tub, a keiki (children’s) pool with spouting honu (turtles) and slide (both great hits with Tristan) and an infinity pool looking out over the seemingly endless Pacific. A busy, almost hourly roster of activities, from feeding Koi to Poi Ball dancing; aqua aerobics to introductory scuba and surfing and a Westin Kid’s Club that features a Parent’s Night Out twice a week means no-one should feel left out or bored. Nanea restaurant, a pool bar, full health and spa facilities, a reasonably priced market, weekly farmer’s market and 22 poolside barbecues round out the on-site facilities.
Whaler’s Cove Oceanfront Luxury at Po‘ipu: Perched on a low, lava rock promontory between Koloa Landing (Whalers Cove) and Baby Beach, Whaler’s Cove perfectly met the requirements of our family (ohana) for the second half of our vacation: quiet and laid back with the sound of waves gently breaking on the rocks just a metre or two below the lawn, a nice pool with barbecues and conveniently located for magical Po‘ipu Beach Park, Koloa Old Town and the new Shops at Kukui‘ula, as well as an easy drive to Waimea Canyon. Our condominium was roomy, comfortable and well appointed and the staff were extremely friendly and helpful. ‘Sea-gazing’ was a major activity, if that is the right term. Green SeaTurtles (honu) were regular visitors to the cove right next to our condo and we also watched one feeding on a seaweed-covered rock among snorkelers at Po‘ipu. Birds in this area were less evident except for a regular flight of feeding shearwaters that appeared each day, but a pod of Spinner Dolphins entertained us for about 20 minutes. Fishermen, paddleboarders and outrigger canoes completed the entertainment The complex has 38 one- and twobedroom ocean-front units, most of which have been recently renovated, and has just added a completely renovated three-bedroom penthouse.
Kaua‘i 411 Getting There: WestJet offers direct flights from Vancouver four times per week in winter and weekly in summer, and US airlines offer direct flights from a number of US cities. The alternative is to fly into Honolulu.
HTA/TOR JOHNSON
Who Goes: Pure Kaua‘i; Fun Sun Vacations; WestJet Vacations; Collette; Cosmos Vacations; Globus; Insight Vacations; Monograms; Air Canada Vacations Information: www.Kauai-hawaii.com; www.gohawaii.com/Kaua‘i/about There are several lookouts in Waimea Canyon and Koke’e State Park, but Waimea Canyon Lookout, where you can watch Yellow-tailed Tropicbirds rejoicing in the thermals created by the 1,000-metre-deep canyon tops them all. 38
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CONSIDER YOUR BATTERIES RECHARGED. Sail along a coastline of majestic cliffs. Hike to a secluded waterfall. Or simply sit and watch the sunset from a pier. It’s all here on Kaua‘i.
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Elephant lephant BY B Y JAC JACQUELINE QUELINE SWARTZ SWARTZ
Pachyderm Spotting In Botswana With OrientExpress
In The Double Comfort Safari Club, Alexander McCall Smith’s recent novel featuring Precious Ramotswe, the proprietor of Botswana’s No.1 Ladies’ Detective Agency, there’s a scene where Precious and her assistant journey through Botswana’s Okavango Delta by canoe. The Trout Inn, a much-loved “local” in Oxford, was a favourite hangout of authors Colin Dexter and C.S. Lewis. CHRIS & RICK MILLIKAN
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t Central entral Walking In
English History Oxford, Windsor & The Thames River Path
BY CHRIS & RICK MILLIKAN Of England’s thousands of footpaths, the Thames River Path seems perfect for our self-guided adventure, including four days in medieval Oxford.
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We soon discover world-renowned Oxford University, established in the 13th century and now consisting of 38 distinguished colleges spread throughout town. Most are embellished with gargoyle spigots, dramatic quads with wisteria almost two centuries old. Just beyond the historic Botanic Gardens, Magdalen’s bell tower still proudly soars. Here, Cromwell’s Roundheads captured Charles I during the Civil War. One of Europe’s oldest libraries, the university’s Bodleian contains 50,000 Latin manuscripts, 11,000 rare items like a marriage contract on papyrus from 600 BC, the first English Dictionary…and over five million books. “Initially a Divinity School, teaching began here as early as 1096,” our guide says. “Five kings, twenty-five British prime minImagine Inspector Morse investigating isters, prominent scientists, and crimes around Oxford, solving mysterious famed writers studied in upstairs murders while driving his famous Jaguar reading rooms.” Seating on hard listening to Wagner…and stopping for a benches, we learn oral examinapint. Colin Dexter’s cultured but crotchety tions for all students were long police detective hangs out in pubs around held in this hallowed chamber. The the city. Bodleian added circular 18th-century Radcliffe Camera next door, • Walk to the elegant Randolph Hotel in and today the library encompasses central Oxford; enjoy a drink at the posh 40 buildings. bar, one of Inspector Morse’s favourite Christ Church College’s maghaunts. nificent 12th-century cathedral • Wind along tiny alleyways behind Hertford serves all of Oxford; Tom Tower’s College and sip real ale with the locals great bell tolls nightly at nine. Our in the Turf Tavern’s popular bar…or afternoon visit reveals this colenchanting outdoor garden courtyards. lege’s success in academia and • Hop a local bus and head for the 17thfantasy. Here, the school’s mathcentury Trout Inn for a leisurely lunch ematician Lewis Carroll created overlooking the Thames River. Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland and scenes from Harry Potter movSuper Fans: Download ‘Inspector Morse ies were filmed. “Hogwarts” feaTour’ guide: www.tourinaday.com/oxford/ tured Christ Church’s Tom Quad, inspector-morse-tour.php the 1,000-year-old cloisters and spectacular 16th-century staircase leading to the Great Hall. The university’s museums have long provided both scholars and the public free access to world-renowned resources. Established in 1683, Britain’s first public museum originally housed Elias Ashmole’s donation of remarkable curiosities. Nowadays, the Ashmolean exhibits extensive collections such as wonderous antiquities from Egypt, Crete, Greece and Rome, plus internationally famed artwork. Pitt Rovers John Thaw, as Inspector Museum offers huge arrays of archeological and anthroMorse. pological artefacts. The museum of Science History presents early instruments of investigation. The Victorianstyle Town Hall’s museum provides two small galleries focusing on Oxfords’ development since its 810 founding. In the modern gallery, we take four virtual bikes rides around town, reviewing sites seen on foot. Oxford exudes English history along its winding streets. At the junction of four ancient roads, a 23-metre tower is all that remains of 13th-century St. Martin’s church. Climbing its 99 narrow steps, we gaze over
CHRIS & RICK MILLIKAN
The Thames Path primarily follows towpaths used to pull barges; it also skirts endless green pastures and flowery meadows, farmlands, wildlife reserves and parks.
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Averaging 17 kilometres daily, our route occasionally loops inland through picturesque communities, and even along fields of scarlet and purple poppies.
Oxfords’ spires…and sight Saxon Tower dating to 1040. Strolling around Oxford Castle we discover the birthplace of King Richard and his brother King John and Martyr’s Memorial, recalling Catholic Queen Mary’s burning of three Anglican bishops in 1535. Devoted Colin Dexter fans, we cross the street to check out Inspector Morse’s posh bar in the Randolph Hotel. A bus later takes us to another haunt, the 17thcentury Trout Inn outside Oxford. Our server mentions the Trout was also a popular hangout for earlier writers like C.S. Lewis. Shouldering daypacks stuffed with raingear, map, guidebook, snacks and water, we leave Oxford’s medieval splendour. For the next five days, our luggage will be transferred to pre-booked lodgings. Thames Path primarily follows towpaths used to pull barges laden with Cotswold wool, timber and stone. These working barges have been replaced with luxury barges that now traverse this waterway’s many locks. Of these, Sandford lock manages the river’s highest drop. Its roaring weir is nicknamed “the Lasher,” known for its treacherous undercurrents. The riverside pathway skirts endless green pastures and flowery meadows. It tunnels through hedges and beneath gnarly oaks. Emerging, we tramp through farmlands, wildlife reserves and parks, sometimes spotting partridge, magpies and crested grebes. A local birder explains the flotillas of Canadian geese. “We’ve had ‘em since the 1800s. Those and our muted swans’re molting, grounded ‘til new feathers grow. And those kits above us were endangered. Breedin’ programs save ‘em!” Along the idyllic location of Wind in the Willows in Pangbourne’s water marches, wooden benches post brass plaques quoting Kenneth Grahame’s winsome
CHRIS & RICK MILLIKAN
Finding Inspector Morse
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Our three Oxford favourites:
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• Head of the River on the Thames at Folly Bridge, lovely waterside seats. • The Eagle & the Child, since 1650; served CS Lewis, JRR Tolkein and other literary figures. • The Bear Inn since 1242, a hidden gem near Christ Church College and other sites.
observations of river life. On the shore opposite, Elizabethan-era Hardwick and Mapledurham manor houses claim to have inspired illustrations of Toad Hall. Only when the valley narrows into the Chilterns do we climb serious slopes. Our route occasionally loops inland through picturesque communities, and even along fields of scarlet and purple poppies. Averaging 17 kilometres daily, our walks end at historic hotels, a farmhouse, a country home and rooms in 17thcentury pubs. All provide hearty English breakfasts of bacon, sausages, eggs, baked beans and toast. We enjoy many delicious meals in pub gardens. One stormy day we snuggle, muddy and wet, inside Little Wittenham’s Barley Mow. The publican consoles us, “You’re seein’ a month’s worth o’ rain today! But y’know…there’s really no bad weather in England, just bad clothes!” Mostly, we’re drenched in history. At tiny Iffley we stumble upon a gem. Unlike other 12th-century churches we see, St. Mary’s remains intact, complete with original fine stonework and parables
CHRIS & RICK MILLIKAN
Common fixtures in all English towns, pubs provide moderately priced home-style food, a casual ambience and friendly service. Historically, comfort fare served in these public houses was whatever the owner’s wife whipped up. These days, there’s all manner of menu choice, including familiar classics: Shepherd’s pie, Welsh rarebit, fish & chips, steak & onion pie or ploughman’s lunch.
depicted in stained glass. England’s oldest continually settled town, Abingdon lies across its multi-arched 1422 bridge. There, we find St. Mary’s ruins. Once larger than Westminster Abbey, Henry VIII destroyed such influential Catholic monasteries in 1538. An important Saxon town from the ninth century, sections of King Alfred’s earthen ramparts remain in Wallingford. A formidable castle was built here by Normans…and demolished by Oliver Cromwell. The timber-framed Town Hall and corn exchange recall its continuing importance. Wallingford’s museum recounts local history and highlights famed resident Agatha
Inside Windsor Castle, gothic St. George’s Chapel houses the tombs of Henry VIII, his favourite wife Jane Seymour, Charles I, Edward VII and other notable monarchs. 44
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Stop In For A Quick One
At the junction of four ancient roads, Carfax tower is all that remains of 13th-century St. Martin’s church. Climbing its 99 narrow steps, we gaze over Oxfords’ spires.
www.germany.travel www.creative-germany.travel
Berlin. See it. Be it.
Berlin is one of Europe’s most creative capitals – and the youngest. Here trends from all over the world gather speed, and innovation is visible on every street corner. Fashions are created but the price tag is not important – it’s the idea that counts. Berlin has style, but it also has substance. Music is not made to please everybody and design is not just an eye-catcher. From art to fashion, the city’s events are inspiring – a warm welcome to the world!
© nhow Berlin, Photographer Cem Guenes
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Christie, who often based her Miss Marple and Poirot mysteries in this area. We leave town beside St. Leonard’s, its oldest church. Moulsford, Streatley and Whitchurch retain their ancient village charms. Voted South England’s most beautiful town, Goring maintains its wondrous Tudor splendour. • Children’s writers: From Shiplake, we catch a Lewis Carroll Alice in train into Reading’s historic Wonderland; CS Lewis, centre where the 1700s brick The Lion the Witch & Guildhall Museum showcases the Wardrobe; JRR a Victorian-era, full-size repTolkien, The Hobbit lica of the Bayeux Tapestry. • Poets: Dylan Thomas Forbury Gardens lies adjacent and WH Auden to another abbey’s ruins. Our next day’s jaunt ends with a quick • Flamboyant poet and playwright: Oscar train ride into Henley to check Wilde out its rowing culture and Royal • Popular crime writers: PD James and Colin Regatta before a late afternoon Dexter train whisks us to Windsor. Perched above town for al• Novelists: Evelyn Waugh, Brideshead most 1,000 years, Windsor Castle Revisited; William Golding, Lord of the remains the world’s largest and Flies; Graham Greene; Aldous Huxley, oldest working castle. Although Brave New World and John Fowles, French greatly altered since it was built Lieutenant’s Woman; Pulitzer Prize winner by William the Conqueror in John Updike; Ian McEwen, Atonement the 1070s, the original Curfew Tower looks like it did in 1227. Nowadays Windsor’s St. George’s bell tower chimes hymns…and still provides quick, private castle exits. Inside castle walls, we enter gothic St. George’s and find the tombs of Henry VIII, his favourite wife Since the mid-13th century, Oxford has been residence to generations of brilliant scholars in every discipline imaginable, including esteemed literary figures. Many internationally celebrated favourites lived around the city; some studied and even taught at the prestigious university.
Jane Seymour, Charles I, Edward VII and other notable monarchs. Under an array of banners a docent explains, “Knights of the Royal Garter meet in these choir stalls. These coats of arms above the stalls symbolize their backgrounds.” In the outer courtyard, we watch the ceremonial changing of the guard and listen to the regimental band belt out brassy tunes. Queen Elizabeth II’s public apartments overflow with artful items. Queen Mary’s masterfully crafted Doll House, given as a gift in 1923, especially intrigues us. This miniature palace boasts early electric lighting, five bathrooms with running water and working elevators. In town, we view Christopher Wren’s Guildhall and nearby, Crooked House Tea Rooms. Across the Thames, Eton embraces the world’s most exclusive public school. Eton College has educated England’s leaders since 18-year-old Henry VI founded it in 1440. From Oxford’s spires, through sublime countryside and historic towns to Windsor’s pageantry, exploring the Thames provides a worth-while undertaking.
Famous Alumni of Eton College Best known for its castle, Windsor is also home to Eton College, one of the world’s most exclusive boys schools. Eton’s hallowed grounds are an easy stroll across the pedestrian bridge over the Thames. Founded by 18-year-old Henry VI, this elite public school has educated generations England’s greats since 1440; ancient desks and benches bear the graffiti of hundreds of noted Etonians like: • Prime Ministers Walpole, Duke of Wellington and Pitt the Elder • Poets Thomas Gray and Percy Bysshe Shelley
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Oxford’s Literary Heritage
Hugh Laurie.
• Writers George Orwell, Aldous Huxley and Ian Fleming • Multi-talented actor Hugh Laurie • Prince William, second to the British throne
Look for sites around Oxford’s Christ Church College in the Harry Potter movies; the Tom Quad, the 1,000-year-old cloisters and spectacular 16thcentury staircase leading to the Great Hall are all part of “Hogwarts”. 46
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CHRIS & RICK MILLIKAN
[Stop for a ‘posh’ lunch at Gilbey’s Bar, on High Street mid-way between Eton College and Windsor Castle]
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