CT - Canadian Traveller Spring 2013

CANADIAN TRAVELLER spring 2013

Where

Next?

Exploring Andalucia

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Nayarit, Naturally Caribbean Romance DINING IN THE BIG EASY

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Known as “The Blue Jewel” along Miami Beach’s famed Ocean Drive, The Park Central Hotel is an authentic, beachfront Art Deco Hotel which features 125 delightfully appointed rooms and suites with many breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean. The true Art Deco charm one could ask for with no Resort Fees added.

Originally built in 1939 and redesigned by Fashion icon Todd Oldham, The Hotel encompasses 73 deluxe rooms and suites with a panoramic ocean view rooftop pool. All of South Beach’s style and luxury with no hidden Resort Fees.

CANADIAN TRAVELLER

Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Rex Armstead Editor Janice Strong Staff Writer-Toronto Merle Rosenstein

SPRING 2013 • Volume 28 • Issue 3

Design and Editorial Production Fusion FX Design & Marketing Inc. www.fusionfxdesign.com Associate Publisher Brad Liski Associate Publisher Jennifer Prendergast Tel: (416) 907-7524 Western Region Sales Manager Myles Armstead Tel: (866) 699-9933 Account Manager Joanne Tichborne Tel: (416) 907-7524 Regional Representative Mexico Leticia Garcia Tel: (55) 5683-5569 Integration Manager Kahlil Yeates Subscriptions Subscription@canadiantraveller.net All e-mail addresses: firstname+initialoflastname@ canadiantraveller.net

here Next?

W Mexico 14 Riviera Nayarit

Go Local On The Bay of Banderas & Discover Turtles, Crocs & A Tourist Paradise

Caribbean 22 Happily Ever After

Art Classes In Andalucia

Snap Shots 6 Malawi Trekking…Viennese

Café Culture…Vietnam Golf…Coaching In Tuscany…

Sleeping With Fish…Molecular Gastronomy…Saving Koalas…

Toronto Indy…Baseball With Burns…

United States 28 The Real Hawaii

Finding Hawaiian Culture Resort-Style

40

A Passion For Food

40

In New Orleans, To Eat Is To Let The Good Times Roll

CANADIAN TRAVELLER

Chief Executive Officer Rex Armstead

SPRING 2013

28

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WHERE

NEXT?

President Brad Liski

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Eastern Canada: WaterPark Place 11th Floor, 20 Bay Street Toronto, ON Canada M5J 2N8

Exploring Andalucia

Tel: (416) 907-7524 Fax: (866) 250-6839

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Take A Vow To Say “I Do” In The Caribbean

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Spain 32 Pampering While You Paint

NAYARIT, NATURALLY CARIBBEAN ROMANCE DINING IN THE BIG EASY

ON THE COVER: Ronda, Andalucia, perches atop both sides of El Tajo, a precipitous gorge. Turn to page 32 to find out more.

Photo Credit: Fesus Robert/shutterstock.com

www.canadiantraveller.net A Supplement To CT Magazine – SPRING 2013

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10th hole, Danang Golf Club.

VIETNAM Playing The Best The Denang Golf Course, named as the best course in Vietnam at the 2013 Asia Pacific Golf Summit, has launched a stayand-play initiative that offers an all-inclusive package to play the acclaimed course and stay in a luxury two- or three-bedroom pool villa at the Ocean Villas for the equivalent of less than $US 200 per night per person.

The packages include weekday golf for two people in a two-bedroom villa and for three people in a three-bedroom villa, caddie and green fees, buggy transfers to and from the golf course, breakfasts, welcome drink on arrival and food/ beverage and spa discounts. Up to four people can stay in the two-bedroom villas and up to six in the three-bedroom villas for the all-inclusive price, with breakfasts included. www.theoceanvillas.com.vn and www.denanggolfclub.com

Buffalo in Majete Wildlife Reserve

Dr. Livingston, I Presume

ROBIN POPE SAFARIS

DANANG GOLF CLUB

SNAPSHOTS

BOTSWANA

2013 marks the legendary explorer, David Livingstone’s bicentenary birthday. To celebrate, Robin Pope Safaris is offering a trip following the renowned Scottish explorer’s footsteps with its ‘The Warm Heart of Africa’ safari.

Highlights of the 10-night package include a drive through Balantyre, the namesake of Livingstone’s birth place (Blantyre, Scotland); a journey along the Shire River, the river that led him into Malawi; a visit to Kapichira Falls, a stumbling block in the explorer’s adventures; trekking in Liwonde National Park up the Shire en route to Lake Malawi; and Lake Malawi itself, which Livingstone called ‘ Lake of Stars’. The Warm Heart of Africa safari includes all transfers by road, all accommodation on a full-board basis, activities and laundry; is valid through December 2013 and starts at US $3,802 per person sharing. www.robinpopesafaris.net

Let’s Talk AUSTRIA Vienna Coffeehouse Conversations bring visitors and Viennese together for one-on-one, English-language conversations in traditional cafés over a menu of questions to help participants share their views on travel, friendship, compassion, inspiration and whatever else pops up.

“The Vienna Coffeehouse Conversations enable travellers to re-invent the world-famous and UNESCO-recognised Vienna coffeehouse culture, echoing a time when Sigmund Freud, Gustav Klimt and Stefan Zweig met acquaintances in cafés to exchange ideas and debate,” explains coorganiser Barbara Grüll-Cação from travel site Vienna Unwrapped. The topics for conversation are arranged across a three-course Viennese meal and coffee.

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Conversations take place April 12 and June 14 at Café am Heumarkt; and May 11, July 13 and August 10 at Café Museum from 6.50 p.m. to 9 p.m. To register, visit www.vienna-unwrapped. com/vienna-coffeehouse-conversations.html

VIENNA UNWRAPPED

The two locations, Café Museum and Café am Heumarkt, represent the best of bohemian, literary, contemporary Vienna.

SNAPSHOTS Sleep With The Fish

© 2012 RESORTS WORLD AT SENTOSA PTE. LTD

Bedroom, Ocean Suites.

Ocean Suites, in the Open Ocean habitat at the S.E.A Aquarium – the world’s largest aquarium – offers a one-of-a-kind stay: observing more than 70 marine species through a floor-to-ceiling acrylic panel in the bedroom.

Designed like deluxe townhouses, the two-storey suites feature a living room connected to an outdoor deck with a private relaxation corner fitted with a Jacuzzi pool and lounge chairs on the upper storey and a bedroom with an underwater view on the lower storey. A bath tub beneath the wooden deck lets you enjoy the comfort of a warm

bath, while taking in the beauty of the underwater scenery. The entrance level of each Ocean Suite has a bedroom with an underwater view of the Open Ocean habitat.

Five-star comforts include luxurious amenities and personalized butler service. The rack rate for the Ocean Suites is US$1,965 a night. www.sentosa.com

Tally Ho

Step back to a time of leisurely travel on a horse-drawn carriage tour of Tuscany with High Pointe Tours. Following pastoral country roads, fording streams and taking paths through oak forests, the four-in-hand shooting brake carriage travels from inn to inn through places not accessible by bus or, in some cases, even by car.

The six-day tour begins in historic Siena and ends at the village of Alberese, home of a palace once owed

by Austrian archdukes. Along long the way, you’re treated to sumptuous Italian meals and prized wines in exotic settings like Ucellina, a restricted natural reserve; the castle yard of a Marquis; arquis; an estate with views of olive trees and vineyards; and a well-appointed hunting lodge.

Tour dates are April 29 to October 8. Prices range from US $4,040 to $4,144 per person. www.highpointetours.com

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A leisurely way to travel.

HIGH POINTE TOURS

ITALY

SINGAPORE

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Enter EnterOnline Online At:At: www.canadiantraveller.net/contests.php www.canadiantraveller.net/contests.php Or OrFax FaxTo: To: 1-866-562-4405 1-866-562-4405 1. To enter the contest, the entrant must be a resident of Canada who has reached the age of majority in the province in which he/she resides, who is not an employee of, a member of the immediate family of, or domiciled with, an employee of ACT Communications Inc., its agents or distributors, or any of the prize donors. Note: Contest is not valid in any jurisdiction where prohibited by law. Odds of winning are contingent upon the number of entries received.

2. Contest closes May 31, 2013.

3. The draw will be made June 17, 2013 from correct entries received. All fields must be completed.

4. One prize will be awarded consisting of one Gazebo Ceremony Location for up to 25 people, chairs for guests, rose petals for aisle, music, Minister, Minister to Register Official Marriage License with Clark County, 1 bridal bouquet, groom boutonniere, “Married in Vegas” champagne flutes, commemorative champagne & chocolates, professional photographer to capture a minimum of 80 images provided on a CD with copyright release, bridal gown rental and tuxedo rental romantic dinner for (2) a top The

Rio Hotel with a view of the city, one hour photo tour in a 6 passenger limousine with a professional photographer stopping at iconic strip locations and taking photos while sipping champagne, inclusive of all photos on a disc and the copyright release, (2) tickets to Flightlinz experience, (2) Strip Trip Helicopter flights, (2) Firearms Experience, (2) show tickets to “The Divas”, shuttle service to discount mall shopping with Green Savings card (discounts value up to $800). Some restrictions may apply.

5. The prize redemption dates will be provided to the winner. It must be accepted as awarded, is not redeemable for cash and is not transferable.

6. The winner will be advised by telephone during the week of June 24, 2013 and announced in the August 2013 issue of CT magazine.

Canadian Traveller.

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ECHIDNA WALKABOUT NATURE TOURS

SNAPSHOTS

SPAIN CONTEXT TRAVEL

Soup’s On

Exploring molecular gastronomy.

Context Travel’s new Modernista Menu explores Barcelona’s avant garde culinary trends, including molecular gastronomy. In the company of a local chef or food writer, visitors tour the kitchen of a Michelin-starred restaurant before sitting down to a “curated” meal based on the theories of molecular cuisine.

Participants begin with a behind-the-scenes tour of the kitchen and learn about some of the specialized equipment that is used in molecular cuisine. Then, they’ll sit down to a dinner designed by Victor Quintilla, owner/ chef of Lluerna that takes participants on a gastronomic journey through recent trends.

Modernista Menu is available for private bookings and within Context’s small-group program, which limits shared group tours to 6 people max. Private tours cost €425 for the party, plus €80 per person for dinner; group tours cost €180 per person. www.contexttravel.com

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SPRING 2013 – A SUPPLEMENT TO CT MAGAZINE WWW.CANADIANTRAVELLER.NET

Spotting wild koalas.

AUSTRALIA Help Koalas, Eh? Canadians are rushing to help Melbourne’s wild koalas in greater numbers than ever before.

“Since introducing our new conservation tourism program last year, our bookings from Canada have gone through the roof,” says Janine Duffy of Echidna Walkabout Nature Tours. “Canada has always been a major market for us, but recent increases have set a new record.”

The popular Koalas & Kangaroos IN THE WILD day tour visits the You Yangs Park to walk with wild koalas, which are named and studied by Echidna

Walkabout researchers. The tours pay for the research, and guests help out by finding koalas and other animals.

“We’ve had Canadians of all ages out in the Bush helping our Koalas,” says Janine. “I think Canadians have a ‘cando’ attitude. So when we see a wild koala, they want to make sure it has a future!” Tours are AU $190 per adult and AU $142.50 per child www.echidnawalkabout.com.au

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SNAPSHOTS NEW YORK

Zoom, Zoom

Tauck offers a new four-day, baseballthemed event as part of its “Ken Burns American Journeys” series of travel experiences based on the filmmaker’s works.

Highlights of “The Tauck Baseball Event: America’s Pastime” include a private, “after-hours” evening inside the National Baseball Hall of Fame with Ken Burns; special lectures by baseball experts, including author Daniel Okrent and baseball historian Tom Heitz; a period “Town Ball” game played with 19th-century rules; a visit to Cooperstown’s iconic Doubleday Field; and even a few swings in historic batting cages. There is also the opportunity to meet former major league baseball players Phil Niekro, Ozzie Smith and Doug Glanville.

TAUK

National Baseball Hall Of Fame.

One of Canada’s largest annual sporting events, the Honda Indy Toronto, hits the streets of Toronto July 12 to 14 with not one, but two IZOD IndyCar Series races and plenty of off-road action: a craft beer festival, an international food festival, countless activities for families and exhibits for car aficionados.

Gearheads can take in nine full-length races, six race series paddocks and numerous vehicle displays. The Adrenaline Fest features a BMX stunt show, Honda Jr. Red Riders program, Canadian Armed Forces interactive display, Dr. Pepper cooler can racing and the Honda Indy Pit Stop Challenge. At the Craft Brew Fest you can sample local craft brews in the Craft Beer Gardens and chat with brew masters, while Taste Fest features free food samples and plenty of food trucks. General admission tickets range from $35 to $50 and reserved grandstand tickets range from $60 to $165. www.hondaindytoronto.com

Photo Courtesy swiss-image.ch/Valais/Christian Perret

PICNIC ON A PEAK? f ind www

your a d v e n t u r e … .adventure.travel/CT

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J STEADMAN/ HONDA INDY TORONTO

Play Ball

Included in the price (from $3,690 per person, double occupancy, plus air) are three nights in Cooperstown at the Otesaga Resort Hotel, all daytime activities and evening festivities, all meals, all gratuities, airport transfers and ground transportation.

Honda www.tauck.com.

Indy Toronto

TORONTO

RIVIERA NAYARIT CVB

Volunteers patrol Nayarit’s beach during turtle egg-laying season, to collect, nurture and finally release babies into the surf.

Loving Nature Go Local On The Bay Of Banderas & Discover Turtles, Crocs & A Tourist Paradise

SAN BLAS

By Judy Waytiuk

Cruise the waters of La Tovara, a freshwater spring that is home to crocodiles and a large number of bird species.

It’s sunset on the Riviera Nayarit’s 300-kilometre-long perfect powder beach. At a quiet spot marked off by yellow rope laid out on the sand, about four dozen tiny baby sea turtles are wobbling clumsily on little flipper-feet to the surf.

We who helped release them, one three-inch-long baby per pair of gently cupped, wet, sand-covered hands, cheer them on. It’s a sweet thrill to feel the tiny flippers scratch gently on your fingers as you tenderly lower this ever-sosmall bit of life to the sand beach where, if it’s a girl, it will one day return to lay its eggs.

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JUDY WAY TIUK

Bucerias bustles with locals and tourists, and its busy town square is fringed by peddlers selling everything from fruit to nuts.

T

URNING TURTLE Thirty years ago, these little guys would’ve grown up to become bottles of turtle oil on sale in souvenir shops. But today, caring for the environment is becoming a tourism hallmark here on the Riviera Nayarit.

Local volunteers patrol Nayarit’s beaches nightly during turtle egglaying season, gathering fresh-laid eggs and moving them to seaside nurseries, to be ushered into the sea the day they hatch. The number of

O l i v e Ridley sea turtle nests on this beach has soared from about 500 in the early 1990s to well over 12,000 today, and all along the beach, various eco-organizations and even resort hotels tend nests and allow tourists to help with releases.

IT’S A CROC A little less tender, but possibly an even bigger thrill, are the crocodiles that pepper the region’s mangrove forest river channels leading to the ocean. South of San Blas, near the village of Matanchén, locals wait at

SAN BLAS

Go back in time in San Blas, to ruins of an old fort that tells the story of the Spanish occupation.

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a tidy highway-side marina to ferry passengers along mangrove canals, upriver to La Tobara, a freshwater spring that supplies water to San Blas. En route, crocodiles glower from half-submerged logs, turtles perch on more logs, and birds ranging from snowy egrets to roseate spoonbills hang out in the trees.

Your open boat, called a panga, stops at the crocodile co-operative conservation centre, Laguna Keikari Wild, where injured crocs are nursed back to health and a few other wild inhabitants also occupy pens. And if you’re really lucky when you get back to the marina, one or two of the local ladies will be carrying trays around the parking lot, selling this town’s specialty: home-baked muffins – pineapple, coconut, banana – all still warm from the oven and maddeningly good.

At the small Cocodilario el Cora near the Flamingos Golf Course outside Bucerias, Jose Santos and his family tend two mated pairs of big crocs and raise babies for release. No muffins here, but you can touch a baby croc, check out a few other pens, and feed the goats.

There are no flamingos here, or anywhere else in Nayarit; the name

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came about when the president visited in 1970 and announced he could see flamingos in the lagoon.

Minions dared not tell him the birds were roseate spoonbills – so the name has stuck.

HERE THERE BE WHALES When it comes to wildlife, whalewatching’s the biggest traditional thrill in the Bay of Banderas, where giant humpbacks come in midDecember to breed and calve until March. What was once a boating freefor-all to see the whales has become much more carefully enforced, to better protect the whales from being annoyed by bunches of pesky little pangas. Only boats with permits can approach, must stay 30 metres away, and can only hang around for half an hour before moving on to find other whales to watch.

The whales, though, are blissfully unaware of the 30-metre rule, so it’s not uncommon to see one of these stunning sea mammals breach suddenly, right by a boat.

Chances of grabbing a picture of that moment are almost zero – but the memory and the pure joy of it will be permanently etched in your mind

SMALL TOWN STROLLS Along with nature, there’s plenty of traditional Mexican flavour in the villages that stud this coastline: almost two dozen small towns and tiny villages pepper Nayarit’s wide, natural beach, each with something unique worth stopping for (and shopping for) on road trips north to historic San Blas. Rent a car and do the drive yourself, so you can spend as much time as you want in a village, or grab a quick overview of the biggest ones through one of the daytrips offered by various tour operators.

Bucerias bustles with locals and tourists, and its busy town square is fringed by peddlers selling everything from fresh fruit to nuts. Many of the souvenirs are the same tchotchkes you’ll find anywhere in Mexico, but keep your eye out for genuinely unique new twists on traditional cobaltblue-rimmed glasses, exquisitelydetailed Huichol figurines and yarnwork, or small wall sculptures of hammered, subtly-coloured metals. Pick up a bite to eat – you might get fresh oranges or watermelon straight off a farmer’s little pickup truck, or have a pina

RIVIERA NAYARIT CVB

Humpback whales breed and calve in the Bay of Banderas between midDecember and March.

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colada with coconut that was just delivered. If you’re lucky, someone may be selling jamaica, a cooling, hibiscus flower drink. In the nearby village of Mezcales, local ironwood carver Poinciano Quezada and his family love visitors to their carving shed and shop, and you can buy elegant carvings straight from the hands that made them.

LOCAL SECRET SPOTS Sayulita’s Mayan mysticism collides with North American hippie/surfer culture, creating a funky, entertaining New Age-y blend. Here you can buy a cup of coffee dubbed “Seriously Gourmet Shit” at the little open-air coffee shop beside the Galerie Tanana, which specializes in Huichol work.

Look for more Huichol crafts in the open markets of the villages, and watch the artist’s hands doing the nimble beadwork before you buy. And scout out a few beach peddlers if you get peckish: gone are the days when you flirted with gastrointestinal disaster if you ate from a peddlers’ cart. Now, some of the tastiest treats come from those carts and it’s safe to eat – especially the delicate, flaky Mexican pastries

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RIVIERA NAYARIT CVB

carried in big trays by the women who baked them. Or if you’re thinking real food instead of snack, park yourself on a chair in the sand at one of the beachside palapas, and feast on a fresh seafood meal. At Boca de Tomate on Sundays, where a local cab can take you (it’s very much local, but ex-pats who live here for much of the year have discovered it) you’ll need a group to help you eat, because the menu consists of picking your whole fish right out of the cooler, then sitting back with a few beers while the totallytraditional meal, right down to the hand-slapped tortillas, is cooked.

In little San Pancho (aka San Francisco), the beach is as good as any along the coast, and a visit to the Entre Amigos non-profit Community Centre will yield unique souvenirs made from recycled materials, as well as a glimpse into local life; bring an extra suitcase full of gently-used clothing to help supply their thrift shop for locals.

Just 20 minutes north of San Pancho, the tiny village of Lo de Marcos is another spot even more undiscovered by North Americans.

Wealthy Mexicans keep weekend and holiday villas here, and on weekdays the wide, white beach is virtually empty of people.

Horses still clip-clop the cobbled streets with weather-beaten riders carrying thatch or cane, and fishermen weave nets outside their small homes. You won’t find souvenir shops here; you will find complete tranquility – and grilled fish at the seaside palapas.

Busy Rincon de Guayabitos, another traditional Mexican vacation spot brimming with local flavour, sports

A SPIRITUAL PATH ANTHROPOLOGIST Susana Eger Valadez, founder and director of the Huichol Center, travelled to Mexico about 30 years ago while working on her MA Degree in Latin American Studies at UCLA. In the process of studying the Huichol culture, her life was changed forever. In 1981, she and her Huichol husband Mariano Valadez, renowned Huichol yarn painter, co-founded the Huichol Center for Cultural Survival and Traditional Arts.

The rugged terrain of their homeland – located in the Sierra Madre Mountains in the states of Jalisco and Nayarit – has provided a pocket of isolation where the estimated 8,000 descendants of the Aztecs have adapted to the demands of their harsh environment.

In doing so, the Wixarika (the name the Huichols use in their language to refer to themselves, meaning prophets or healers) have nurtured a value system and way of life that hold many lessons for the modern world.

The Huichol people are a tribe of corn farmers, artists and shamans who consider spirituality to be central to their existence. Religion is not a part of life - it is life. The gods are everywhere, including the trees, hills and lakes. Even the lowly stone has a soul.

Their culture shines as a living entity that embodies native spirituality. The Huichols’ art, symbolism, music, folklore, plant knowledge and profound religious insight are a source of inspiration and wisdom for people around the world.

SPRING 2013 – A SUPPLEMENT TO CT MAGAZINE WWW.CANADIANTRAVELLER.NET

a multi-coloured Decameron hotel popular with Mexican vacationers and priced for the budget-minded, and beach peddlers’ carts are overwhelmed by masses of inflated beach toys. Because it’s mostly a Mexican holiday spot, it’s quiet for much of the year, and you can explore uncrowded streets, check out small local and boutique hotels, browse the shops, find a charming little restaurant for lunch, or stake out a beach lounge for awhile.

Finally, a little history: in the state capitol of San Blas, a museum and Spanish fort ruins tell the story of the Spanish occupation and Mexican battle for independence in 1810. And frozen-in-the-1800s San Sebastian del Oueste, tucked in the mountains behind the coast is one of Mexico’s designated “Pueblos Magicos” and a candidate for World Heritage status (technically it’s in the state of Jalisco, but so close you don’t want to miss it).

Keep your eyes peeled for artisan coffeemakers and tequila-makers enroute, to buy genuinely local.

With all there is to see, you may not get this far on your first trip to Nayarit. But once the all-inclusive resorts with top-drawer service, excellent cuisine and impeccable beaches, have drawn you here for the first time, you will be hooked by this place. You’ll be back over and over again; there will be plenty of time to explore. So kick back on that beach with a fancy drink and chill for awhile, and think about where you might go tomorrow.

Or the next day. Manana. d

REBECCA DAVIDSON/CAYMAN ISLANDS DEPT TOURISM

Happily Ever After.

Take A Vow To Say “I Do” in the Caribbean

By Melanie Reffes

Raising the romance bar with lobster dinners, champagne breakfasts and massages pour deux, the Caribbean oozes passion around every palm tree. From weddings and honeymoons to vow renewal celebrations and anniversary trysts, nothing says romance sweeter than a getaway in the tropics. Whether it is a seaside ceremony or underwater wearing scuba gear, tying the knot in the Caribbean offers the quintessential wedding to remember.

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“The romance market has grown solidly for the past 10 years in the Caribbean and I anticipate continued growth,” said Richard Doumeng, president, Caribbean Hotel and Tourism Association (CHTA) and co-owner of Bolongo Bay Beach Resort in St. Thomas.

“As a small hotelier, the romance market has been a lifesaver because we can compete with and even beat the big boys which is why I have two full-time wedding planners in my 75-room hotel.” the resort offers en-suite massages, canopy walks through the mangrove forest, fine dining at Salaka Grill and fine cocktails at the Poolside Grill. “Our rum punch with our local Black Label will put any couple in the mood for romance and for a wedding dinner, I recommend an expertly prepared lobster at a seaside table with white gloved service,” he adds. www.magdalenagrand.com With just 19 rooms, the elegant Montpelier Plantation on the small isle of Nevis is the stuff of magical weddings. A Relais & Chateaux hotel where vintage meets vogue, wedding venues include the Mill Privée, the original 18th-century sugar mill; and under the enchanting tree where Horatio Nelson, famous for his service in the Royal Navy, married Fanny Nisbet. “A wedding here is

MONTPELIER PLANTATION

With just 19 rooms, the elegant Montpelier Plantation on the small isle of Nevis is the stuff of magical weddings.

“A wedding here is for the bride who is looking to be more than just another bride on the beach,” said Tim Hoffman, owner.

GREEN & SERENE On the petite island of Tobago, Magdalena Grand Beach Resort is all about romance with an array of packages like the ‘Platinum’ that includes an on-site wedding planner, decorated arch on the beach or in the gazebo, wedding cake custom-made by local artisan bakers, candlelit dinner for two and a champagne breakfast in bed the morning after. “Our staff love weddings and treat every couple like family,” said John Murphy, vice president, EFM Hospitality Solutions, operators of the hotel. “We have confirmed seventy-five weddings so far for this year and anticipate that number to grow.” Named for one of Christopher Columbus’s ships, the 200-room seaside all-inclusive resort is nestled in the Tobago Plantations Estate surrounding a championship golf course. Formerly the Tobago Hilton,

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DIVE GRENADA

Grenada is on a romance roll with one of the most unique ways to tie the knot in the Caribbean. At the Flamboyant Hotel, ‘Romance on the Reef ‘includes a blue wedding for diving couples who’ve always dreamed of saying “I Do” underwater.

for the bride who is looking to be more than just another bride on the beach,” said Tim Hoffman, owner. “We provide our couples with the individual attention of a small hotel while still upholding the topquality service standards found at larger resorts.” Extra touches include homemade spirits that are infused with locally grown passion fruit and three on-site restaurants. “A wedding here is more than just a ceremony, it’s a vacation, a honeymoon, an adventure and an unforgettable experience for the bride, groom and their guests,” he adds. www.montpeliernevis.com

HOLIDAY INN SUNSPREE

FAIRY TALES COME TRUE The world’s only 100 per cent all-inclusive Holiday Inn, the revamped Holiday Inn Sunspree in Montego Bay, is rolling out the romantic red carpet with a ‘Wedding Vows Renewal’ package that includes a minister, choice of three ceremony venues like the picturesque gazebo at the end of the pier, renewal certificate, bridal bouquet and groom’s boutonniere. In addition to the new suites, the resort also tempts with Paella Restaurant, Sol-Mer Spa and a mini-golf course. “We’ve raised our standards to better meet the needs of today’s discerning couples by offering a

The revamped Holiday Inn Sunspree in Montego Bay rolls out the romantic red carpet with a ‘Wedding Vows Renewal’ package that includes a minister, choice of three seaside ceremony venues including the picturesque gazebo.

WWW.CANADIANTRAVELLER.NET CANADIAN TRAVELLER • SPRING 2013

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BRETT JORDAN

surprising level of style and amenities for the price,” said Nicola Madden-Greig, director, sales and marketing. www.caribbeanhi.com/jamaica

Founded in 1947, The Buccaneer in St. Croix is not only a Historic Hotel of America but also one of the Caribbean’s most celebrated. Delighting couples for more than six decades, the 11-room Inn unveiled swishy new suites with vaulted wood ceilings and king-size poster beds.

“The Buccaneer is a fairy tale setting with many options for wedding sites,” said Emily Armstrong, owner. “Our estate is self-contained with panoramic views from every vantage point of the sea, setting sun and our historic Old World architecture.” www.TheBuccaneer.com

Wedding Traditions

• At a Jamaican wedding, a dark fruitcake liberally laced with rum is served at the reception and then slices are mailed to friends and relatives who were unable to attend.

• Wedding cakes in Bermuda are topped with a tiny sapling. After the reception, the newlyweds plant the young tree at their home where they watch it grow, as their marriage grows.

• Cuban wedding receptions are famous for the traditional money dance, where each man who dances with the new bride must pin money to her dress to help the newlyweds with their honeymoon expenses.

• In Puerto Rico, the priest performing the wedding also blesses a plate of coins and gives them to the groom.

After the wedding vows have been exchanged, the groom gives the coins to his bride, which she keeps as a wedding present from her husband.

Courtesy www.worldweddingtraditions.com

SHUTTERSTOCK/FOTO-RUHRGEBIET

SOMETHING BLUE The only Caribbean destination to earn a spot on National Geographic’s ‘20 Best Places to Visit in 2013’, Grenada is on a romance roll with one of the most unique ways to tie the knot in the Caribbean. At the Flamboyant Hotel, ‘Romance on the Reef’ includes a blue wedding for diving couples who’ve always dreamed of saying “I Do” underwater.

The package organized by Dive Grenada includes safety divers who act as underwa-

Caribbean

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ter witnesses. “The romance, wedding and honeymoon niche is a good fit with Grenada’s tourism product as the island is blessed with abundant natural attributes that appeal to this target market,” said Dr. George Vincent, minister tourism. “All three islands that comprise our nation offer a wide range of attractions for couples including beautiful beaches, tropical rainforests, sparkling clear waters and authentic cultural experiences.”

For an extra sweet treat, the Grenada Chocolate Factory at the Belmont Estate crafts delectable dark chocolate from the cocoa beans that grow in the nearby groves. Tours include samples and a stop at the small gift shop. www.divegrenada.com, www.flamboyant.com

PERFECT ESCAPE Northwest of San Juan, 20 one-bedroom casitas are delicious for couples at Royal Isabela. Charming and ecoaware, the Inn offers golf carts that run on solar power and farm-to-table dining at Restaurant La Casa under the watchful eye of acclaimed Manhattan Chef David Pasternack.

“Couples find that Royal Isabela offers the perfect escape that is far enough away from the city, yet with all the amenities expected of a world-calibre resort,” said Stanley Pasarell, co-owner. Reminiscent of a Puerto Rican hacienda in the 1930s, the iconic stone tower that is both the restaurant and library is charming for a an intimate wedding reception with its antique Spanish furniture and artwork from private residences while honeymoons are perfection in the one-bedroom casitas, each with plunge pools and a spa tub. www.royalisabela.com d

r e v o c s i

T R A e E th H L

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of

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The Hawaiian Canoe Experience at The Fairmont Kea Lani is one of three complimentary cultural experiences; there is also a cultural tour and a Hawaiian language class.

THE

REAL HAWAII FINDING HAWAIIAN CULTURE RESORT-STYLE

By Janice Strong

I have to admit, I’m not much of a beach person. I sunburn too easily, the sand gets into everything…. You get it. So when I was planning my trip to Maui I was looking to get beyond the beach, lovely though it may be. I wanted to find out about the Hawaiian culture, to learn about the traditions, music, foods and customs – and I wanted to do it in style.

AND WHAT I DISCOVERED IS THAT MAUI’S BEACHFRONT RESORTS ARE THE PERFECT PLACE TO ENJOY THOSE FAMOUS MAUI SUNSETS AND DIVE INTO THE CULTURAL SIDE OF ISLAND LIVING. history of the Hawaiian language and how to pro pronounce words they see around the islands.

But it’s the Kea Lani’s full-time Cultural Coach, Jonelle Kamai, who leads the way. Along with developing the resort’s cultural programs, she also trains the hotel staff on Hawaiian history, language and culture. A culture that believes we need to be conscious and grateful of all the things around us; our health, our family and nature; a culture based on the fundamental principles of love, support, hospitality and giving without the expectation of receiving.

Down the Wailea coastal path sits the Grand Wailea, where you can find Hawaiian traditions in the Spa Grande, which has been voted one of the “Top 10 Spas In the United States” by Conde Nast Traveler and

WWW.CANADIANTRAVELLER.NET CANADIAN TRAVELLER • SPRING 2013

FAIRMONT HOTELS & RESORTS

WAILEA W WA ILEA My base of operations for the first half of my stay was the Fairmont Kea Lani on the Wailea coast. A perfect choice it turns out, as the resort was recently voted as having the “Best Hawaiian Cultural Program” on Maui by the readers of the Maui News.

And with good reason. The resort offers complimentary cultural activities like The Hawaiian Canoe Experience that teaches guests Hawaiian traditions along with the basics of paddling, the history of the canoe and its importance to Hawaiian heritage; Hawaiian Cultural Tour that includes information about the many uses of native and non-native plants by the Hawaiian people, as well as Hawaii’s rich history; and ‘Ōlelo Hawai‘i Sessions where guests learn about the

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KA’ANAPALI After a few days I left South Maui and headed over to West Maui and settled into the Westin Maui Resort & Spa. My first night was an entertaining introduction to several of the cultures of

FLICKR

Most resorts offer guests the chance to explore Hawaiian culture through hula demonstrations or leimaking classes.

Polynesia at the Wailele Polynesian Luau. Dinner and drinks are just the beginning of an evening of music and dance from Hawaii, Tahiti, Samoa and New Zealand, that ended with Maui’s most extreme fire knife dance, performed by Chief Tavita, a third generation fire knife dancer and his troupe of five fire knife dancers. There is also a market featuring the wares of local crafters including tiki carving, henna tattoos and weaving.

Right next door to the Westin, Whalers Village Fine Shops & Restaurants offers 90 stores, three restaurants, a food court and a whole host of free shows and activities that introduce Hawaiian ways to even the most reluctant cultural explorer. Daily activities include coconut husking, hula lessons, lei-making classes, while Mondays, Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays see a Polynesian and Tahitian dance show in the evening. www.whalers-

villge.com

Down the road, The Westin Ka’anapali Ocean Resort Villas shares Hawaiian culture through a program of henna tattoos, coconut leaf weaving, ukulele lessons, lei making, hula lessons, stellar navigation and mapping. Some activities

A Whale Of A Tale WINTER IS WHALE-WATCHING SEASON in Hawaii, particularly off the shores of Maui where they can often be seen from beach paths. The Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary is jointly managed by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration and the State of Hawaii and covers the shallow warm waters surrounding the main Hawaiian Islands.

Head to the Whalers Museum in Whalers Village Fine Shops & Restaurants to learn about the heyday of whaling in Lahaina (1825-1860).

Examine the largest collection of harpoons, sea chests, sailor journals, and ship logs in Hawaii, plus photos and movies depicting the sailors’ dangerous lives. Special exhibits include 19thcentury artifacts and a scale model of a whaling ship – one of the largest in the world. Take in one of the Whale Talks held Thursdays and Fridays.

BARBARA LACORTE, CHANNEL ISLANDS NATURALIST CORPS

Travel + Leisure magazines. Its Terme Hydrotherapy Circuit, a series of five aromatic baths, uses salts created by a salt master, based on Kauai salts, and the product of on-property beehives finds its way into spa treatments. Spa Grande also offers a line of signature products that feature local ingredients.

Self-guided audio tours are available.

Open daily

WHERE NEXT? Need a get-away but not sure where to go? Get connected to Canadian writers telling the story of the top travel picks by Canadians.

Read exciting WHERE NEXT? Articles at

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www.CanadianTraveller.net

are free and some have a cost. I shopped the Aloha Friday Craft Fair, held on a beachside lawn.

A good walk down the beach path from the Westin Maui Resort & Spa, the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa offers a chance to go stargazing through its Tour of the Stars rooftop experience. Led by the resort’s Director of Astronomy, the evening features a look at the stars, planets, galaxies and nebulae that guided voyaging Polynesians to the Hawaiian Islands more than a thousand years ago. During the daytime there are hula demonstrations and lei-making classes.

FLICKR

Fire knife dancers are the highlight of the Wailele Polynesian Luau at the Westin Maui Resort & Spa.

HOTEL FACTS • Fairmont Kea Lani: 413 onebedroom suites, 37 private twoand three-bedroom villas; three pools; six restaurants and bars; Spa Kea Lani. www.fairmont.com/ kea-lani-maui/

• Grand Wailea: 780 guestrooms, including 52 suites, 100 rooms in a private club area and three

-bedroom private luxury villas; water activity pool, adult pool; eight restaurants and bars; Spa Grande. www.grandwailea.com • The Westin Maui Resort & Spa: garden view rooms, ocean view rooms and suites; five pools; four restaurants and bars; Heavenly Spa. www.westinmaui.com • The Westin Ka’anapali Ocean Resort Villas: studio and onebedroom villas; three pools; five restaurants and bars; Spa Helani. www.westinkaanapali.com

• Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa: 806 rooms; two pools; nine restaurants and bars; Spa Moana. www.hyattregencymaui.com d

Jonelle’s Top Hawaiian Cultural Experiences • Bailey House Museum: a preserved mission home built in 1833 on the compound of the last ruling chief of Maui.

• Olowalu Petroglyphs Hike: hike into see rock art thought to represent a royal family, commoners, animals, canoes and tools.

• Noho’ana Farm: visit a working taro farm and learn all about this Hawaiian food staple.

• Maui Arts & Cultural Center: hosts performances and exhibitions by Hawaiian artists.

• Historical Lahaina Town: stroll the streets and learn about Maui’s cultural and whaling history.

• Pi’ilani Heiau in Hana: discover ancient rituals at the largest temple (heiau) in all of Polynesia.

• Ulalena: multi-media performance spectacle that explores relationships between people, nature and mythology.

• The Baldwin Sugar Museum: preserves and presents Maui’s sugar heritage.

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Picture Perfect

Get Pampered While You Paint In Art Classes In Andalucia

Text & photos by Christine Potter

My place in the sun is a beautifully restored old mill nestled among olive groves. It’s an hour’s drive northeast of Malaga in Spain’s Andalucia region and where Canadian-based, gourmet cuisine duo Mike and Hilary (Lari) Powell host art groups, retreats and cooking courses each spring and fall.

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A place in the sun: come for the atmosphere and stay for the painting classes at El Molino Viejo.

www.canadiantraveller.net Canadian Traveller • SPRING 2013

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Their enthusiasm for entertaining guests and for Andalucian culture, history and food is contagious, making El Molino Viejo (The Old Mill) an idyllic getaway.

There’s no trouble finding instructors, says Lari, there are so many possible subjects in the area. Some teachers return each year, like Nick Bantock (known for his Griffin and Sabine books among others) and Suzanne Northcott (who offers yoga classes as well as art workshops).

I was there last October as part of a watercolour group.

I don’t paint but my spouse does and while he was hap happily ensconced learning new techniques and sharing old ones with hitherto strangers (who fast became friends) I enjoyed lazing by the pool with a book from El Mo Mo-

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lino’s library and visiting the little town of Tapia nearby. (The Powells will arrange rides to various places for different activities, including golf.) I also indulged in massages from the visiting practitioner and joined the excursions to Cordoba and Ronda.

This was our second time to El Molino and we met other repeat guests. They come as much for the ambience and for Mike’s cooking (as well as Lari’s decadent desserts) as for the instructors who, in this session, were Vancouver-based Leslie Redhead and Winnipeg-based Leona Brown.

“I’ve never picked up a paintbrush in my life,” said BC resident Michelle Bamcroft. “And look what I’ve made!” She beamed with justifiable pride at the results of Leslie’s teachings. (Students ranged from those who had never put brush to paper and those whose talents were well established.)

El Molino Viejo, an idyllic getaway an hour’s drive northeast of Malaga hosts art groups, retreats and cooking courses each spring and fall.

WWW.CANADIANTRAVELLER.NET CANADIAN TRAVELLER • SPRING 2013

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LESLIE THERE’S A WARMER, MORE According to

INTENSE LIGHT HERE THAN AT HOME. IT’S A DIFFERENT PALETTE AND THIS IS SOMETHING I LOVE TO SHARE.

Ataranzanas Market.

Malaga:

The Meeting Point THE TRANSFER POINT for guests at El Molino Viejo is Malaga International Airport, where thousands arrive to sun themselves in resorts along the Costa del Sol, but few stop to enjoy the city itself. And that’s a pity. A twoor three-day pre- or post-El Molino stay is time well spent.

Malaga has managed to keep its character while tasteful development has given the town an inviting stretch of waterfront boulevard hemmed with restaurants and a large, palm-studded park area.

• Centre for Contemporary Art (CAC) with its collection of 20th • The Picasso Museum, dedicated and 21st-century works. to Malaga’s famous native son with Admission is free. a fine collection of the artist’s work.

• The Alcazaba-Gibralfaro castle (Closed Mondays.) high on the hill overlooking the • The many pedestrian streets city. Walk among the eucalyptus with a variety of stores, little cafes trees and the gardens. The city and restaurants. Try the fish and and ocean views are amazing. seafood. Fresh and delicious.

And if you want the view without • The Atarazanas, Malaga’s the walk, visit the Parador hotel to colourful central market dating enjoy a drink on the terrace and to the 14th century. A great place soak up the sights. to find all kinds of local produce.

• The beaches. Malaga’s coastline (Closed Sundays and after has 16, from huge curving bays to 2 p.m. daily.) secluded coves. More information from www.malagaturismo.com and www.spain.info.

DON’T MISS …

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And the food! Mike has been a passionate chef for some 50 years and he and Lari have owned restaurants in Spain and Portugal. Meals and unlimited wine are included in the cost and ingredients are local, organic and personally picked

by Mike.

Lunch and dinner become social events, with participants (sometimes as many as 18, sometimes as few as 12) sitting in the shady, open courtyard or on the poolside, shaded patio at a huge harvest-style table. It’s like having a dinner party with friends every day.

EL MOLINO So what about El Molino itself?

“It’s believed a mill existed centuries before Tapia was formally founded in 1604,” says owner Nick Moody who, with his wife Amanda, fell in love with the 1.2-hectare estate and moved the whole family there (including then toddlers Jasmine and Josh, and Bosco the dog) in 2002 to restore and rebuild the complex.

“When we moved in, there were just a couple of goat-wool mattresses on the floor and only chicken wire at the windows, no bathroom and an outside toilet!” Hard to imagine, given today’s comfortable environment of seven modern bathrooms shared between nine bedrooms. My favourite is the mill’s two-bedroom upper floor with a slope-ceiling blue-tiled bathroom. It was the old Salting Room where Serrano hams were preserved.

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Plaza Mayor.

Madrid:

Capital Sights To See WHILE IN SPAIN IT WOULD BE A SHAME TO MISS MADRID, THE VIBRANT CAPITAL IN THE HEART OF THE COUNTRY. Leave your Canadian lifestyle in the suitcase and think siesta in the afternoon. Almost everything closes for a few hours anyway and you’ll need time to recover from the large lunches. By 11 p.m. when most of us are thinking about our beds, Madrilenos are ready to go out to eat and party. And not just on weekends.

Tapas bars are the best places to start the evening. From about 10:30 onwards the selection of small dishes – squid, sausage, veal, vegetables and so on – are best sampled by bar hopping in Madrid’s Plaza Mayor with its lovely 17thcentury buildings. But it’s crowded, so be prepared to eat your tapas while standing. It’s also a great spot for lunch and people watching.

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Madrid’s world-renowned art galleries include the famous El Prado, where you can spend hours with the masterpieces of Goya, Velasquez, Picasso, Bosch, et al.

The Royal Palace is Madrid’s largest building (and largest royal palace in Western Europe) and has splendid collections of clocks and tapestries. No ruler, I learned, has ever defiled the imposing, symbolic throne by actually sitting on it. In fact the palace – now used only for state occasions – has not been lived in since 1931.

If you happen to be in town when Real Madrid enjoys a soccer win, head to Plaza de Cibeles. Its iconic fountain has been adopted by fans and players as a place to celebrate.

More from www.gomadrid.com and www.spain.info.

SPRING 2013 – A SUPPLEMENT TO CT MAGAZINE WWW.CANADIANTRAVELLER.NET

The adjoining four-bedroom Casita was once the old mule stables.

It’s here that guests make their own breakfasts from a variety of supplies in the cosy kitchen, watched eagerly from outside by the kittens (supposedly feral but nonetheless adorable).

And Bosco.

EXCURSIONS Two day-long excursions (locations vary) plus a couple of half-day outings to local towns or villages are included in the cost.

My October trip took us to Cordoba, Ronda and a colourful agricultural fair where

MOTHERS AND DAUGHTERS DRESSED IN FLOUNCY ANDALUCIAN COSTUMES,

glorious Arabian horses were put through their paces before being sold, and food and wine stands appeared in abundance.

Cordoba, an Islamic centre until the ninth century “reconquest” was Europe’s largest city. In the 10th century it boasted some 500,000 people, 700 mosques, 300 public

baths, paved and lit streets, bookshops and more than 70 libraries, one of them the largest in the known world.

A stately Roman bridge leads to the ancient walls and the atmospheric Old City. The artists, armed with sketchbooks and paints, found any number of subjects among the narrow, winding streets with flowerfilled balconies. Most striking is the Mezquita, an 11th-century place of worship that began life as a mosque. It’s so large and beautiful that the Christians built a cathedral inside the complex rather than tear it down. (Locals still talk about going to the mosque when they attend masses there.)

It was in Cordoba at El Cardinal that I saw one of the best Flamenco shows ever, where the dancers included national champions.

The second excursion took

R

,

’

us to ONDA AN ARTIST S DREAM

BUILT EITHER SIDE OF EL TAJO, A PRECIPITOUS GORGE. This is where

Nick Bantock set his beautifully illustrated novel The Forgetting Room.

Old Town (dating to the Islamic occupation) and New Town (built in the 18th century) are joined by three bridges (Puente Nuevo being the grandest) and the energetic can hike the path down the gorge’s 100-metre walls to see the remains of Roman waterworks and Arab baths.

Here, too, is one of Spain’s oldest bull rings, well worth a visit for its display of magnificent matador suits, saddles and other bullfight artefacts. And Ronda is a great place to shop.

You can find out more about the courses, the Powells, the instructors and El Molino Viejo from www.flavourofspain.net. d

Energetic souls can hike the path down the 100-metre walls of the el Tajo Gorge to see the remains of Roman waterworks and Arab baths.

If you only knew how close to the stars you would be in Prague, you could already be touching them.

czechtourism.com

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A

PASSION FOR

FOOD IN NEW ORLEANS, TO EAT IS TO LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL

By Toby Saltzman

When most people think of New Orleans, they think of great jazz, great food and lettin’ the good times roll in the Big Easy, the city with soul that marches to its own beat. N’Awlins – as the locals say – lured the cultural cognoscenti long before its first Jazz Fest featured blues luminaries Duke Ellington and Mahalia Jackson. Back then, hearty dishes like jambalaya, alligator pie, crawfish étouffée and plump po-boys were all the rage.

N’Awlins – as the locals say – lured the cultural cognoscenti long before its first Jazz Fest with hearty dishes created with local ingredients.

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N Adventurous eaters find small cafés serving VietCajun food, or intimate Italian trattorias whose counters are laden with muffuletta sandwiches stuffed with cold cuts.

NEW ORLEANS CVB

Chef Susan Spicer draws raves for her globally influenced menu at MONDO, where her lively dishes come at moderate prices.

Credit the evolution of New Orleans cuisine to chefs from around the world who immigrated over the last few decades, says Ralph Brennan. Their “new” spices added exotic touches to the seasoned recipes that had evolved over a couple of centuries from the original melting pot of immigrants: the French and Spanish, the Canadians who became Cajuns, the African slaves, and those who drifted in after the 1800s including Italians, Germans and Irish.

Arguably one of the world’s authorities on Louisiana cuisine, the mercurial Brennan – an accountantturned-chef – boasts an impressive coterie of local eateries, including the Red Fish Grill in the French 42

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Quarter, Ralph’s on the Park in mid-city, Café B, and Café Noma within the New Orleans Museum of Art. Ralph Brennan, 61, sees New Orleans’ culinary renaissance spanning beyond the French Quarter to quaint neighbourhoods: the historic and architecturally significant Garden District; the Lakeview area which is regenerating with young families after the devastation of Hurricane Katrina; and the once derelict Warehouse and Waterfront areas that are revitalizing into chic pockets of new businesses, shops and eateries.

Everywhere, innovative chefs are fueling the city’s culinary creativity by playing around with fresh, local ingredients. Although Brennan admits that even food aficionados will devour hot jambalaya shrimp or red beans and rice when they’re partying along Mardi Gras’ chilly parade route – albeit adding to their warmth with doses of Bourbon – after the festivities are long gone most look for lighter dishes with bold, intense flavours.

With some 1,300 restaurants, New Orleans offers a cornucopia of choice places to taste authentically modern flavours. Chef Phillip Lopez presents the cutting edge of molecular cuisine, dazzling the clientele at Root. Chef Susan Spicer draws raves for her globally influenced menu at MONDO. At Cochon Restaurant and butcher shop, Chef Donald Link has revived the penchant for traditional Southern Cajun pork and seafood pulled fresh from the Gulf. Adventurous eaters will often find mouthwatering flavours in small cafés serving Viet-Cajun food, or intimate Italian trattorias whose counters are laden with muffuletta sandwiches stuffed with cold cuts and rich cannolis oozing cream. For fine dining, Ralph’s on the Park is noted for oysters drizzled with olive oil and breadcrumbs, tuna tartare and entrées with twists of Asian flavour such as the popular roasted Redfish served with a miso glaze and fragrant gingerlemongrass broth.

Everyone has a passion for food in New Orleans, says Brennan. “At breakfast we think of lunch. At lunch we think of dinner. At dinner, we think about breakfast. It’s part of our lifestyle. To eat is to laissez les bon temps rouler…let the good times roll.”

NEW ORLEANS CVB/CHRIS GRANGER

NEW ORLEANS CULINARY cachet has come a long way since then. From Paul Prudhomme, who introduced spicy dishes at K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen – to protégés like Frank Brigtsen, whose Brigsten’s Restaurant is renowned for presenting traditional Creole-Acadian cuisine in delectable style – to Emeril Legasse who flaunted Louisiana flavours on America’s TV screens, the city’s current dining scene zings with cosmopolitan vitality.

continued page 46

RECIPE Notes • Recommended alternate species: speckled trout, red snapper, grouper, mahi-mahi, sea bass, swordfish, tilapia • You will have some of the sauce left over. It won’t keep for another meal and is delicious as a dip for bread pieces.

Advance steps Just before grilling the fish, prepare the recipe for lemon butter sauce.

Special equipment • An outdoor grill • Hickory (or your favourite) wood chips • A broad, large and sturdy spatula • A heat-proof platter, if grilling the fillets in batches

Learn The

Art Of Cajun Cooking Ralph Brennan’s New Orleans Seafood Cookbook offers traditional and modern recipes plus how-to tips for preparing fish and seafood. Here’s one of his signature recipes. www.ralphbrennancookbook.com

Grilled Redfish and Crabmeat with Lemon-Butter Sauce

Speckled trout and red snapper are especially good pinch-hitters for redfish.

While the grill is preheating, prepare the lemon butter sauce and keep it warm as directed in the sauce recipe.

Ingredients salad oil (not olive oil) for brushing on the grill rack and fish fillets ¼ cup good-quality dry white wine, divided, plus a few tablespoons of the wine if grilling the fillets in batches 6 skinless redfish fillets, 6 to 8 ounces each, neatly trimmed, with the “belly” removed if it is still attached

Makes 6 servings Fish laden with crabmeat and sauced with lemon and butter – it’s a classic New Orleans dish that tastes every bit as good as it sounds. The combination is especially elegant and luxurious if the crab atop the fish is in jumbo lumps. These may be hard to find, as well as expensive – they cost twice to three times more than other crabmeat – but their sumptuous flavour can be worth the time and money.

The fish’s very flattering sauce is a beurre blanc zapped with lemon. Hickory chips are suggested here for their sweetness, although mesquite and other woods suitable for grilling can be substituted. Soaking the hickory will increase the fish’s smoky flavour.

2 tbsp

Creole seasoning

4 tbsp

unsalted butter

1 pound jumbo lump crabmeat, picked through 1 tsp

kosher salt

1/8 tsp

freshly ground black pepper warm French bread, for the table

Place the fillets on a work surface. Brush both sides with salad oil, and season each fillet evenly on both sides with Creole seasoning, using 1/2 teaspoon of the seasoning on each side of each fillet.

Once the grill is ready, place the fillets directly on it and cook until they are done, about 2.5 to 4 minutes per side. The cooking time will vary according to the heat of the grill and the thickness of the fillets. (Watch closely so the fish does not overcook.) Use a broad, large and sturdy spatula to turn over the fillets at least once while cooking.

When you think the fish is approaching the level of doneness you’re looking for, briefly insert the tip of a knife into the thickest part of the fillet.

Then lay the tip of the blade flat against the inside of your wrist. If the tip feels hot against your skin the fish should be done.

Procedure Clean the grill rack with a wire brush and preheat it until it is hot. Then add wet or dry hickory or other wood chips. Brush the rack with a thick wad of paper towels saturated in salad oil, holding the paper towels with longhandled tongs so you don’t burn yourself.

If cooking the fillets in batches, transfer them to a heat-proof platter placed in a warm spot, and drizzle the fillets with white wine to keep them moist while grilling the remaining fish.

While the fillets are grilling, sauté the crabmeat.

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In a heavy 12-inch sauté pan, melt butter over medium-high heat until hot, about three minutes. Add 1/4 cup wine and heat for 30 seconds. Add the crabmeat and season with 1 teaspoon kosher salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper.

PROCEDURE In a heavy, non-reactive, 3-quart saucepan, combine the wine, lemon juice and zest, vinegar, shallots, garlic and thyme. Cook over mediumhigh heat until the liquid in the mixture reduces to 1 to 2 tablespoons, about five minutes.

Cook until the crabmeat is just warmed through, about two minutes, lightly tossing so the lumps of crabmeat stay intact. Serve immediately.

Add the cream and cook until the liquid in the pan reduces to 1 to 2 tablespoons, about 4 minutes. (The sauce may be prepared to this point up to 45 minutes ahead and left at room temperature. Reheat the cream mixture briefly over medium heat, whisking constantly, before proceeding to Step 3.)

Serving Suggestion: Arrange a fish fillet on each heated dinner plate. Top each with a portion of the crabmeat, and spoon 3 tablespoons of the sauce over it.

LEMON BUTTER SAUCE INGREDIENTS 1 1/2 cups good-quality dry white wine 1/2 cup

fresh lemon juice

1/2 tsp

minced or very finely grated lemon zest

1 tsp

apple-cider vinegar

1 tsp

minced shallots

1 tsp

minced garlic

1 tsp

packed, minced fresh thyme leaves

2 tbsp

heavy cream

7/8 pound (3½ sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into about 20 pats 1 tsp

kosher salt, or to taste

1/4 tsp

freshly ground black pepper, or to taste

Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook as you add 2 pats of butter at a time, whisking constantly, until all the butter is added and incorporated into the sauce; each addition of butter should be almost completely melted in before adding more. This will take roughly 10 to 15 minutes total. Remove from heat.

Whisk in the kosher salt and pepper.

If serving the sauce immediately, strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a small saucepan. If not serving promptly, strain the sauce into the top of a double boiler and serve as soon as possible and definitely within one hour, keeping the sauce warm, uncovered, over hot (not simmering) water.

CT SPRING CONSUMER EDITION Grilled Redfish and Crabmeat with LemonButter Sauce

File name: Hotel Victor

1144 OCEAN DRIVE, MIAMI BEACH FLORIDA 33139 T: 305 779 8700 W: THOMPSONHOTELS.COM

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RALPH’S ON THE PARK

NEW ORLEANS CVB

At Cochon Restaurant and butcher shop, Chef Donald Link has revived the penchant for traditional Southern Cajun pork and seafood pulled fresh from the Gulf.

Ralph’s on the Park. continued from page 42 RALPH’S ON THE PARK

WHERE TO EAT • At Mondo, Chef Susan Spicer’s lively dishes come at moderate prices. Her variety-filled menu offers smoked chicken breast with Creole mustard jus; shrimp and okra; and steak and frites. www.mondoneworleans.com

• Chef Phillip Lopez presents a modern approach to American classics at Root. His signature dishes include foie gras served three ways; home-made charcuterie and sausages; Louisiana pickled shrimps; and whole roasted market fish. rootnola.com Ralph Brennan, one of the world’s authorities on Louisiana cuisine, credits the evolution of New Orleans Cuisine to chefs from around the world.

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• Chef Donald Link’s traditional delights at Cochon include smoked ham hocks with baked peanuts and charred radishes; rabbit and dumplings; and pork and black-eyed-pea gumbo.

www.cochonrestaurant.com

SPRING 2013 – A SUPPLEMENT TO CT MAGAZINE WWW.CANADIANTRAVELLER.NET

• At the sumptuous Ralph’s on the Park, Chef Chip Flanagan’s globally inspired entrées include Japanese Wagyu beef, lobster Thermidor with glazed rib eye filet, and Redfish that can be grilled or roasted.

sea bass with coconut curry and jasmine rice. www.lathaiuptown.com

www.brigtsens.com

New Orleans style. For the ultimate degustation experience, try Chef Kristin Butterworth’s seasonal tasting menu. Each dish is paired with wines from the hotel’s excellent cellar. For current offerings visit www.grillroomneworleans.com d

• Mingle with beautiful people over lunch or cocktails at Zoe Restaurant and Wine Bar at the stunning new W New Orleans Hotel. www.ralphsonthepark.com Chef Roberto Bustillo’s delicious • Traditional Creole-Acadian bites include Kobe beef sliders, cuisine is the hallmark of the macaroni and cheese with Louisielegant Brigtsen’s Restaurant. ana lump crab, and crawfish queChoices include roast duck with sadillas with caramelized onions. cornbread dressing and cherry www.zoeneworleans.com sauce; and blackened tuna with • Legendary on the American smoked corn sauce. The famed sea- culinary scene, the Grill Room food platter includes grilled drum at the Windsor Court fuses confish with pistachio-lime sauce. tinental European cuisine with • There’s a tantalizing mix of French and Asian flavours at Chef Diana Chauvin’s La Thai restaurant. Specialties include oysters and soft-shell crabs, Prince Edward Island mussels and panko-crusted

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