AUTUMN 2017
THE
business HOW DO YOU GROW FROM ONE SALON, TO MANY?
Is Craig Chapman THE HARDEST WORKING MAN IN THE HAIR INDUSTRY?
Autumn TRENDS FROM NAILS TO COLOUR!
FREE TO ALL CAPITAL HAIR & BEAUTY CUSTOMERS!
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LIGHT LUMINOUS REFLECTIVE OIL
E S SER S L OV
E
A IR D R
FOR INSTANT LUMINOSITY AND NOURISHMENT WITHOUT WEIGHING THE HAIR DOWN
H LIGHT LUMINOUS REFLECTIVE OIL
LUMINOUS SMOOTHING OIL
FINE TO NORMAL HAIR WITH CAMELLIA OIL
ALL HAIR TYPES WITH MACADAMIA OIL
NEW
* Shampoo, mask and oil vs. non conditioning shampoo.
· Light texture · Pearlescent reflections · Instant luminosity and nourishment without weighing the hair down
· Rich feel · Glossy reflections · Instant luminosity and up to 3 times smoother hair*
SHOP IN STORE OR ONLINE /2
07
TOOLS OF THE TR ADE
We bring you the latest and greatest products
EDITOR'S
letter
We hope your 2017 is going well so far, but if you need help on the business front or inspiration when it comes to trends, you’ve come to the right place.
On page 38 our experts talk you through how they took their salons from one, to many, and on page 34 we’re giving you the latest updates when it comes to colour trends and techniques.
It might be our autumn issue, but we’re already looking ahead to the festive season on page 16; check out our new and improved nails and makeup courses and see what takes your fancy! As always, don’t hesitate to email me at estrachan@capitalhb.co.uk with your suggestions. After all, this is your Capital magazine. Enjoy!
GET THE LOOK
Two amazing looks; one for the guys, one for the girls
12
A WEEK IN MY SHOES
Meet colour-obsessed Chanel Nott, of Real Hair
14
26
AUTUMN SHADES
What’s hot when it comes to autumn nails? We talk to Gellux and Sinful
28
FESTIVE PREP
It’s never too early to improve your nails and makeup skills for Christmas!
MAN UPDATE
Trends galore, from new to classic
32
COLOUR WORLD
18
CR AIG CHAPMAN
Find out how this super stylist made it to TV
Our faves talk autumn colour trends
36
C A PI TA L CON T E N T S
We’re super excited to welcome Craig Chapman to our magazine on page 20; find out how this Cornwall-based stylist didn’t let distance get in the way of building an A-List clientele.
08
FROM ONE TO ANOTHER
Our experts advise on how to build your salon brand
40
TO PURCHASE OR FIND INFORMATION ON OUR LATEST PRODUCTS VISIT WWW.CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUTY.CO.UK
SALON MAKEOVER
Not one, but two stunning salons share their new looks!
Our fave Tracey Devine Smith creates a bohemian – and seriously pretty – work of art for colour brand Affinage. Hair: Tracey Devine Smith for Affinage Makeup: Maddie Austin Photography: Richard Miles Styling: Desiree Lederer
ON THE COVER
44
THE COLLEC TIONS
28
Publisher: Charisse Kenion Ltd | info@charissekenion.com | charissekenion.com Designer: Sophie Middleton | sophiemiddleton.co.uk
This issue we've got four killer collections
NOTE: The views expressed in Capital Hair and Beauty magazine do not necessarily represent those of the publisher. Charisse Kenion Ltd does not accept any responsibility for the loss or damage of material submitted for publication. Reproduction of any material without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.
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TEXTURAL COLOUR EFFECTS based on the PAST FORWARD TREND
AUTUMN/WINTER 2017. We harvest the past for the best looks, attitudes and craft techniques. We then reinvent and reinterpret them for forward-looking, daring premium styles. BACKGROUND Sophisticated technology is no longer surprising. It has become normal. Even styles that were once rebellious are now accepted. But from the past what used to be an ordinary part of the everyday: like a woven basket, a hand-baked bread or a plain white t-shirt have become rare, desirable objects. Treasured for their humble directness and craftsmanship. THE TREND Hand-crafted aesthetics define a new emotionality in beauty and hair. Where a seemingly random flaw, leaves the fingerprint of the creator. Over-groomed perfection is over. Instead, looks are daringly normal: honest and uncomplicated, comfortable and effortlessly you. AESTHETICS A new soft simplicity in cut creates the perfect canvas for colour and styling to celebrate the beauty of imperfection. Rediscovered techniques are combined with the latest innovative products and services for Past Forward looks. This gives a new edge to the concept of beauty – from reduced to expressive but always true to you.
TEXTURED LIGHT A mix of cool & warm tones on blonde shades – on short layers through the top and temple area, with a customised, short deconstructed fringe and long-layered lengths
FIND OUT MORE ON OUR WEBSITE /4
TREND COLOUR PALETTE Trend colours represent soft and intense versions of colours that are found in nature. From shimmering light reflected on a lake’s surface to multiple hues of tree bark and transitioning morning skies.
COPPER LIGHT Pockets of light and depth are created by combining warm and cool tones on a copper base. The Jane Birkin inspired 60’s cut is modernised with a shorter fringe.
FIND OUT MORE ON OUR WEBSITE /5
New Indola Blonde Expert Bleaching Powder –Indola Blonde Expert is now with Hair-Bond Technology directly integrated into formulation! –Dust Free Bleaching Powder delivers up to 8 levels of lift and very significantly reduced hair damage.
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indola.com
#Simply Smarter
NXT LEVEL
NXT is a colour brand that can always be relied upon to deliver on quality, affordability and trend-awareness, and the brand's latest collection is no different. The NXT Metallics collection features 10 new 100ml shades inspired by minerals and stones, offering beautifully reflective, on-trend tones. These new shades require the hair to be pre-lightened to at least a level 10, and any residual colour must be removed from the hair. Best suited to the more experienced colourist, the range also includes a four-page information sheet with three different how-to's to experiment with. £4.75/ €5.45 each
C A PI TA L E SSE N T I A L S
TOOLS of the TRADE CAPITAL HAIR & BEAUT Y GOES ALL OUT TO BRING YOU THE L ATEST, AND GREATEST PRODUC TS TO BOOST YOUR BUSINESS.
ICONIC IONIC
NEW from Sutra; meet the innovative new pairing of the Ionic Infrared Blow Dryer and Ionic Infrared Flat Iron. Sutra uses a unique technology to bring you two new amazing products that will make salon styling a breeze. Combining Infrared rays and an Ultra-Violet frequency generator, the flat iron ensures perfect heat conduction through each individual strand of hair. Heating up to 450˚ this new flat iron utilises dual voltage, a digital temperature indicator and is finished with beautiful, rose gold plates. When it comes to the new Ionic blow dryer, you can count on reducing your drying time by a staggering 40 percent, which your clients are bound to appreciate. Using dry heat, the blow dryer maintains the hair’s natural glow and avoids any unwanted brittle ends. Need we say more? £79.95/€99.95 each
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THIS ISSUE WE’RE GIVING YOU T WO VERY DIFFERENT LOOKS TO PL AY WITH; THE FIRST OFFERS UP SOME GORGEOUS, CURLY ARTISTRY, COURTESY OF THE WONDERFUL TR ACEY DEVINE SMITH AND THE SECOND IS A CL ASSIC MEN’S SCISSOR-ONLY CUT, BY TOM CHAPMAN. /8
TRACEY DEVINE SMITH FOR AFFINAGE
C A PI TA L E X PE R T S
GET the LOOK
FESTIVAL SEASON MAY BE WELL AND TRULY OVER, BUT WE LOVED THE GL AM-ROCK FESTIVE VIBE THAT TR ACEY DEVINE SMITH CREATED FOR AFFINAGE. HERE TR ACEY SHARES HER CRIMPING SECRETS. TRACEY DEVINE SMITH
BaByliss PRO Spectrum Slim Ceramic Micro Crimper - White Pearl £29.95/€37.95 <
< TIGI Catwalk Sleek Mystique Haute Iron Spray 200ml £8.95/€10.65
C A PI TA L E X PE R T S
<
Wella Professionals EIMI Dry Me 180ml £7.85/€9.85
“To create this look, the hair was prepped using a smoothing cream, which was blowdried in using a large barrel ceramic brush. It was then crimped in small sections, starting at the root area of each section and working through to the ends. I applied a heat protection spray to each section before crimping to ensure the hair maintained its condition.
< Dr Paw Paw It Does It All 7 in 1 Hair Treatment Styler 150ml £4.95/€6.26
“Once I’d worked my way around the head in horizontal halo sections I brushed the whole lot out using a classic bristle brush. Dry shampoo was blasted through the whole head and shine spray was used to finish, giving it a lovely, feminine feel. “Finally, I added some pretty dried flowers to give the look a bohemian edge.”
<
Head Jog Ceramic Ionic Pink Radial 80 Brush (60mm) £3.60/€4.50 /9
GET the LOOK TOM CHAPMAN
TAPERED CUTS AND FADES ARE ALL THE R AGE RIGHT NOW, BUT WHY NOT SUGGEST THAT YOUR CLIENT TRIES A CL ASSIC SCISSORONLY CUT INSTEAD? TO HELP YOU MASTER THIS ST YLISH CUT, PREMIUM MEN’S GROOMING BR AND THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE HAS TEAMED UP WITH INDUSTRY-LEADING BARBER, AND FOUNDER OF THE LIONS BARBER COLLEC TIVE, TOM CHAPMAN. HERE TOM BREAKS DOWN THE LOOK.
C A PI TA L E X PE R T S
PREP “Before I reach for my scissors, I like to start by washing my client’s hair. This removes any products they may have used over the last few days and makes the hair much easier to work with. The Bluebeards Revenge Shampoo and Conditioner are always favourites among my clients. “While the hair is still wet from its wash, apply a small amount of matte paste as a pre-styling agent. Next, use your client’s natural parting to section the hair into an asymmetric horseshoe.” THE CUT “Starting at your client’s temples, use scissors to cut the hair. Graduate it from long to short before meeting both sides at the nape. Once you’ve established a perfect graduation, connect the top into the graduated back and sides using the guide you have naturally created.
TOM CHAPMAN FOR THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE
<
<
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The Bluebeards Revenge Matt Paste 100ml £5.75/€7.20
DMI Barber Scissors (6.5 inch) – Black £49.50/€62.05
< ETI Turbo Dryer 2000 – Black £28.95/€42.50
C A PI TA L E X PE R T S
<
Wahl Detailer Trimmer £62.99/€71.95
<
Starflite SF858 Cutting Comb Grey £1.65/€2.05
“Through the top of the hair, point-cut at a 30-degree angle to add structure and texture; it’s important to leave the side closest to the parting longest too, before blending the opposite side into the existing guide.” FINISH “With the intricate cutting now complete, blast-dry the hair and create some movement and volume with The Bluebeards Revenge Quiff Roller. Finish the look by using scissorover-comb techniques and detailing trimmers to make sure every element is perfect. Finally, run a little of The Bluebeards Revenge Matt Paste through the hair for a look that your client can rework all day long.” /11
A WEEK in
my SHOES
C A PI TA L C A RE E R S
CHANEL NOT T IS ONE OF THOSE SUPER BUBBLY COLOURISTS WHO JUST LOVES HER WORK! HERE THE COLOUR DIREC TOR AT LONDON’S REAL HAIR SHARES ONE OF HER BUSIEST WEEKS.
ABOUT CHANEL LOCATION: Real Hair, London
|
INSTAGRAM: @chanelnott
YEARS IN THE BUSINESS: 15 years in the industry; nine spent at Real Hair
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Stick with what you know and do it well! This is what made me search for a salon where I could specialise in colour. This advice enabled me to focus on mastering one skill and it’s made me the colourist I am today and enabled me to work alongside the most inspirational colourists in the industry.
IMAGES THROUGHOUT SUPPLIED UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED
CHARISSEKENION.COM
CHANEL’S ADVICE
MONDAY
Castings galore! Finding great models is always a challenge but one I’m always up for. I’m such a fan of finding a model that fits the brief in a new and intriguing way, working with them to bring my colour vision to life is always a total buzz! We’re shooting a new collection for Indola soon so the model search is on…
TUESDAY
I’m in front of the camera today, and speaking on camera is something I am having to do much more now – I’m learning to love it! You wouldn’t think it would be so hard but I’ve realised the slower I go the better I am.
WEDNESDAY
First up, I’m editing tutorials for the new Colour School on Indola’s website, which often makes me feel a little bit cringeworthy. Hearing myself is never one of my favourite things but I am so proud of the online Colour School. For colourists it’s invaluable! The rest of the day is spent with journalists from trade magazines. We start with a fun walking tour of the street art, and some of the crime stories, that can be found in the East End, including Brick Lane. It’s proof that inspiration can come from anywhere – the amazing street art really got my creativity and imagination fired up! I love living in London!
CHARISSEKENION.COM
Colour prep often resembles an art lesson on some days; it’s a magical world and I honestly can’t imagine doing anything else. Today I’m prepping for a brand briefing so it’s a great excuse to let my imagination run wild.
C A PI TA L C A RE E R S
THURSDAY
FRIDAY
Today my colleague Andy Smith, and I are presenting on stage for Capital Hair and Beauty’s managers’ meeting, so we get to spend the day in lovely, sunny Brighton. It’s always fantastic to work with a team to bring a brand to life onstage. I love every part; from sourcing models, to briefing a clothes stylist to consulting with the makeup artist on colours. During the presentation we discuss all things PCC with Indola and talk the audience through our collection styles – what a fantastic way to spend an afternoon! I love that hairdressing is such an inclusive industry.
SATURDAY
It’s back to the salon today, and it’s always fun. I’ve been at Real Hair in Chelsea for nine years now and it’s the best! Working alongside Lesley Jennison (Schwarzkopf Professional Colour Ambassador), has been career-defining. I’m lucky to say that many of my clients also happen to be prominent London faces; Izzy Bizu, Portia Freeman, Anaïs Gallagher, Atlanta de Cadenet Taylor and Kate King are just some of my regular salon clients. Being located in Chelsea means I’ve been able to work hard at building a good reputation locally and attract a cool crowd in. It’s so important for me to have a real mix of clients – it makes every day in the salon different and I love that. /13
Festive
PREP
C A PI TA L LE A RNING
IT MIGHT SEEM LIKE CHRISTMA S IS A LONG WAY OFF, BUT THERE’S NO BET TER TIME TO GET YOUR SKILL S BRUSHED UP AND READY TO TAKE ON ANY TREND AHEAD OF THE FESTIVE SEASON. HERE ARE OUR TOP 5 – NEW AND IMPROVED – COURSES THAT YOU SHOULD PROBABLY BE INVESTING IN RIGHT NOW.
BEGINNER NAIL EXTENSIONS This course offers a brilliant, professional start for those committed to becoming a full-service nail technician. DAY 1: Explores understanding theory and practical demonstration, followed by students practicing on each other. DAY 2: Reviews existing application with a demonstration and practice on each other again. If you’re already a technician and wish to update your skills or learn a new system, you only need to attend Day 2. COST: £95+ VAT per day DURATION: 2 days | 10am - 4.30pm (Beginners must attend both days.)
MANICURE & PEDICURE
This fast-paced practical course is for beginners wishing to learn techniques for a basic manicure and pedicure. Students gain valuable hands-on practice
in fundamental techniques such as filing, shaping, varnishing, massage and more. COST: £95+ VAT per day DURATION: 1 day | 10am - 4.30pm
QUICK DIP ACRYLIC
A great first step towards a career as a nail technician, this course teaches an acrylic system that is very quick to apply, simple, natural-looking, strong and flexible. The system uses a ‘dip and tip’ method and does not require a big outlay in products or equipment, and can be applied as an overlay on natural nails to add strength or over a tip to extend the nail. COST: £95+ VAT per day DURATION: 1 day | 10am - 4.30pm
CONTOURED EYEBROWS
Brows are big business right now! This course teaches how to transform even the most over-plucked or wild eyebrows into the perfect shape to enhance your client’s facial features – male or female. This is a practical course supported by theory that covers a wide range of techniques, combined to form an extremely popular treatment. COST: £95+ VAT per day DURATION: 1 day | 10am - 4.30pm
BEGINNERS’ MAKEUP COURSE Take the first step towards becoming a professional makeup artist with our beginners’ makeup course. Throughout the day you will be encouraged to experiment and will learn how to create three full makeup looks: minimal and natural, classic bridal and a special occasions evening look. COST: £120+ VAT DURATION: 1 day | 10am - 4pm (Models needed for 11am)
FACIAL CONTOURING & EYE MAKEUP
Contouring is one of those makeup trends that’s definitely here to stay. This course will teach you the techniques of facial contouring and highlighting, so that you can create perfectly proportioned features, as well as colour mixing and concealing. You’ll also learn how to create the perfect smoky eye! COST: £120+ VAT DURATION: 1 day | 10am - 4pm
TO BOOK ONTO OUR TRAINING COURSES*, CONTACT YOUR LOCAL STORE (FULL DETAILS ON OUR BACK PAGE) OR VISIT OUR WEBSITE CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUT Y.CO.UK/TRAINING /14
*All courses are suitable for beginners but you must be aged 18+
NEW IGORA ROYAL OPULESCENCE THE RENAISSANCE OF COLOUR: The next fashion trend turned to hair with 6 opulent shades inspired by the pigments of renaissance painters. Velvet Slate
Royal Russet
Fiery Copper
Powder Blush
Sheer Mauve
Golden Dawn
3-19
5-67
6-78
7-48
8-19
9-57
www.schwarzkopfpro.com /15
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C A PI TA L ICONS
Is Craig Chapman the
THE HARDEST
working man in the
HAIR INDUSTRY? IN MY PREVIOUS LIFE A S A MAGAZINE EDITOR AROUND EIGHT YEARS AGO, I C AME ACROSS THE WORK OF CR AIG CHAPMAN. I C AN S TILL REMEMBER THE COLLEC TION HE’D SENT; IT WAS A DENIM THEME WITH SEX Y, UNDONE HAIR, SHOT IN BL ACK AND WHITE. IN ONE OF MY FIRST DECISIONS AS EDITOR, I DECIDED TO GIVE CRAIG HIS FIRST MAGAZINE COVER. SINCE THEN, I HAVE WATCHED CRAIG’S TALENT AND INFLUENCE GROW – AND GROW. TODAY CRAIG IS ON THE SPEED DIAL OF INTERNATIONAL CELEBRITIES AND HE’S ALSO THE LEAD ST YLIST ON HIT T V SHOW THE VOICE – ALL WHILE STILL RUNNING HIS OWN SALON IN THE SLEEPY MARKET TOWN OF L AUNCESTON, CORNWALL . IF ANYONE CAN JUGGLE, AND DELIVER, IT’S CR AIG; READ ON TO FIND OUT EX AC TLY HOW HE DOES IT. WORDS Charisse Kenion IMAGERY Supplied by Craig Chapman /18
CRAIG CHAPMAN HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN AT THIS SALON NOW? It’s been six years at the current premises, but I’ve had my own salon in Launceston for 22 years. It’s crazy; my current premises is actually the salon where I first started out as a stylist, before going on to buy it.
C A PI TA L ICONS
I moved out to expand in 2000 and ran a massive salon for 11 years, but when I started moving around with work more I realised that I wanted to do more of that type of work, so I downsized. Bizarrely, my old salon was available (although it had become a fishmonger – whiffy!) so I have gone full circle and ended up right where I started. HOW MANY YEARS HAVE YOU BEEN IN THE HAIR INDUSTRY? Thirty years this past June! I don’t even know how that happened, but I wouldn’t change it for the world. I mean, how many industries are there where you can propel yourself into as many different environments as you like, purely due to your own desire and dedication? Plus, it’s creative, it’s fun and you meet tons of great people. You get to build amazing friendships and travel the world – totally suits my love of socialising and tanning! WHEN DID YOU FIRST KNOW YOU WANTED TO WORK IN HAIR? It wasn’t something I thought about actually. I thought I was going to follow in my brother’s footsteps and be a mechanic – can you imagine? My sister-in-law, Shirley, was a hairdresser and told me I should try out in her salon and see how I got on. I loved the social side so I thought ‘why not?’ I did have a wavering moment when I wondered if it was for me, but it’s in my blood and I love it. I think, if it wasn’t for Shirley, I would be doing oil changes right now!
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DO YOU REMEMBER THE FIRST HAIRCUT YOU EVER DID? Yes. It was tragic. It was during a training night in the second salon I worked in. The first one made me perm every week and it did my head in! (It was in the eighties though…) I remember being given a pair of scissors, a client with short hair and the instruction to follow the lines of the previous cut – that was it! I think it would have looked better if I had chewed it off! Bless the client; she was so lovely, but I did learn a massive lesson; always ask for step by step advice if you need it!
C A PI TA L ICONS
HOW DO YOU MANAGE TO RUN A SUCCESSFUL SALON AND KEEP UP WITH YOUR VARIOUS SESSION JOBS ALL OVER THE WORLD? It’s tough, but fundamentally it’s down to my manager Di Shute; she keeps my ship sailing but it’s also about my team: they work hard every day and know exactly how everything needs to be done. It’s been something that has grown organically and it’s meant that everyone at the salon has developed new skills to deal with the change; I used to be full-time in the shop but now I’m there two or three days a week, max, and some weeks I’m not in at all. Di has been with me for years and has grown with me on the journey of salon/session work so she understands that not only is it about working with my passion, it’s also beneficial to the salon. But, it is exhausting and I do have to take a rain check now and again and give myself some rest. DOES THAT MEAN THAT YOU SOMETIMES SAY 'NO' TO ANY OPPORTUNITIES? Well, in the past I didn’t – but that’s how this whole thing grew. I think, when it comes to certain opportunities; if you say ‘no’ you might never get asked again. For pretty much 15 years I’ve said ‘yes’ to almost every opportunity I’ve been offered – despite the fact that I lived in Cornwall. I’m telling you: I know every motor service station on the M5/M4 too well! But you know, over time, the jobs got better, the opportunities got bigger and I could see the momentum I was gaining, and that’s what keeps you going. I have to be honest though; saying ‘no’ is a problem for me. But I’m learning to – a little!
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WHAT'S THE ABSOLUTE BEST PART OF YOUR JOB? Without a shadow of a doubt, it’s the friendships I have built. I have worked in the most incredible places, met some seriously famous people, travelled the world and worked with the most inspiring talent – and I feel blessed. But it’s the friendships you build along the way that are the real key to it all; they’re the driving force. AND WHAT'S THE WORST? If someone doesn’t like what you have done! We have all been there – it’s rare but if there is that mood of dissatisfaction in the air then it rocks me to my core. Whether we are looking after a client in the salon or a contestant on a TV show, we have it in-built to do our best and make everyone feel amazing – so if that doesn’t go quite to plan it can be upsetting. Although, we all know there are some people that you just can’t please!
The second is: ‘it’s okay to fail – just fail forward.’ Peter Lunn gave me that advice when he business coached me. He really changed the way I looked at and ran my salon, but that quote is so right in every part of life.
C A PI TA L ICONS
WHAT'S THE BEST PIECE OF ADVICE ANYONE HAS EVER GIVEN YOU? AND WHO SAID IT? There are two pieces of advice I have never forgotten; the first came from Errol Douglas, years ago: ‘think about what you do, as that’s what you’ll be known for!’ You want to make your mark, choose what’s right for you and let everyone see that.
WHAT'S BEEN THE MOST UNUSUAL REQUEST A CLIENT HAS GIVEN YOU? Making a double scoop ice cream cone out of hair for the Britain's Got Talent advert! Or perhaps a job I did for an equestrian centre; they were adding fake hair pieces to the horses' tails, and they needed to colour match the hair. They then splashed colour on one of the horse's coats, which left a black mark on its rear end, which they then asked me to bleach out and colour! True story, and yes I accepted the challenge! WHAT HAS BEEN THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE SO FAR IN YOUR WORKING LIFE? I’m so dedicated to my work that I forget to make personal time. After building up a busy salon and schedule that’s often away from home, it’s a challenge to make sure I see my friends and family.
/21
NEW!
FIGHT FRIZZ! CALMA SUTRA CLEANSING CONDITIONER
A moisturizing, sulfate free, no-foam cleansing conditioner. Not only does it have amazing detangling benefits, it cleanses and improves manageability! /22
SCREW IT CURL HYDRATING JELLY OIL
This frizz fighting transformative jelly oil is a leavein “styling treat”! Providing intense moisture and a super dose of shine to waves and curls!
FOXY CURLS CONTOUR CREAM Fight frizz with our new and improved FOXY CURLS Contour Cream for light hold and definition!
ON THE REBOUND CURL RECALL CREAM
Reform rebellious curls into soft and defined ringlets!
GET TWISTED ANTI-FRIZZ FINISHING SPRAY
Lock in waves and curls with Anti-Frizz Finishing Spray!
NOW AVAILABLE IN CAPITAL HAIR & BEAUTY SERIOUS GLAMOUR STARTS IN THE SALON /23
C A PI TA L ICONS
"Over time, the jobs got better, the opportunities got bigger and I could see the momentum I was gaining, and that’s what keeps you going."
WHAT'S BEEN THE HIGHLIGHT OF YOUR CAREER, SO FAR? There have been a few! When it comes to the salon I would say it has to be winning a British Hairdressing Award (Craig won Afro Hairdresser of the Year in 2012 and has been a finalist in various categories on a regular basis). I can remember attending the awards as a guest of a finalist and standing on that balcony and saying how much I’d love to even be a part of it, so becoming a finalist nearly sent me over the edge with excitement! Session work-wise, it has to be getting the Lead Hairstylist job for The Voice – I literally backflipped! Celebritywise it has to be looking after /24
Grace Hightower’s hair (AKA Mrs Robert De Niro) for the Cannes film festival – sometimes my job just blows my mind! SO, YOU’VE MADE IT THIS FAR! WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE FOR ANYONE WANTING TO FOLLOW IN YOUR FOOTSTEPS? Work hard, be polite, have fun – and don’t step on anyone’s toes if you want to be seen as authentic. Remember, at some point, we have all been the newbie, so make sure your manners are intact and you’ll be just fine.
REFLECTIVE BEIGE A natural-looking blonde with subtle dimension.
EXISTING SHADE Regrowth: 9GN/10G (colour-treated) Mid-lengths and ends: 9GN/10G (colour-treated)
FORMULAE
A Colorance: 60 ml Lotion + 20 ml 8GB + 10 ml 7G B Colorance Cover Plus: 40 ml Lotion + 20 ml 8 Natural C Colorance: 30 ml Lotion + 15 ml 10BG D Colorance: 30 ml Lotion + 10 ml 8G + 5 ml 8GB
1. Cross section the hair. Start at the crown by applying formula A onto the regrowth. 2. Section the hair. Apply alternating formulae B, C and D in slices down the mid-lengths to the ends on both sides. 3. Apply formula D to mid-lengths and ends of the remaining hair. 4. Observe the processing time, then shampoo and treat with Dualsenses Rich Repair products. Apply Rich Repair 6 Effects Serum into the mid-lengths and ends. 5. Apply StyleSign Glamour Whip to add volume before blowdrying. To tame fly-aways and reduce frizz use StyleSign Soft Tamer. For a flexible hold, finish with StyleSign Magic Finish.
Download the Goldwell Education Plus App to see the technique in 3D!
Dualsenses and StyleSign products working hand-in-hand for better results
Pre-pigment the pre-lightened hair at the basin by using Soft Color 8G or Colorance 8G mixed with Clear (1:1)
/25
AUTUMN Shades
C A PI TA L N A IL S
IS YOUR NAIL COLOUR WARDROBE ALL SORTED? WE SPOKE TO T WO OF OUR FAVOURITE BR ANDS ABOUT THEIR AUTUMN COLOUR AND TREND PREDIC TIONS. READ ON AND BE INSPIRED!
THE TRENDS ACCORDING TO GELLUX
Salon System Gellux Nail Technician Julie-Anne Lariviere says: “On the catwalks we've seen a lot of dark hues for autumn, as well as golds and nudes. When it comes to nail art, the trend is a very bold, ‘rock-chick’ style, with embellishments such as chains and large gemstones. The negative space mani will make a comeback and brightly-coloured shapes against a dark base will be very popular. Nail shapes are going to be one of two complete opposites: either very long, pointed almonds or very short and squared.”
WEAR IT WELL
THIS GIRL CAN
/26
Gellux’s latest collection Wild Hearts, offers up a range of dark and moody shades to complete the quintessential autumnal nail wardrobe, perfectly on-trend for the season. The range features eight new chic shades that are perfect for creating a stylish manicure or beautiful nail art. Each shade is both chip and wear-resistant and dries from just 10 seconds per application*, leaving nails with a longlasting, ultra-glossy finish. Our favourite shades? Wear It Well is a stunning creamy brown that will extend the glow of your summer tan, but we also love the deep tones of This Girl Can; a pearly dark teal.
*With the Gellux Express LED Lamp
NEW IN-STORE!
RECREATE THIS GELLUX STEP-BY-STEP Julie-Anne creates an autumn-inspired look for you to play with! STEP 1 Prepare nail and clean with GELLUX Prep + Wipe (£4.05), and apply GELLUX Fast Bond (£5.85). Allow to dry for 60 seconds. STEP 2 Apply GELLUX Easy Off Base Coat (£11.95), then cure for 10 seconds using the GELLUX Express LED Lamp. STEP 3 Apply one layer of GELLUX Pretty Young Thing (£11.95), then cure for 10 seconds using the GELLUX Express LED Lamp. STEP 4 Apply GELLUX Rockin’ It (£11.95) to the top third of the nail, GELLUX Pretty Young Thing to the middle and then GELLUX Rockin’ It again at the bottom. Do not cure at this point.
GELLUX
THE TRENDS ACCORDING TO SINFUL NAILS Sinful Nails latest range is inspired by Pantone’s fashion colour report for autumn 2017, says Francesca Butterley, General Manager. Three particular Pantone shades appealed to the brand; Ballet Slipper, a beautiful, soft pink; Tawny Port, a rich burgundy and Grenadine, a gorgeous ruby grapefruit tone. The resulting collection offers three complementary tones in the original Sinful range as well as the Pro Shine line.
C A PI TA L N A IL S
STEP 5 Using a short liner brush swipe up and down the nail to create a marbling effect. Do not try and make this perfect! Messy is good for this design. Cure for 10 seconds using the GELLUX Express LED Lamp. STEP 6 Wipe off sticky layer with GELLUX Prep & Wipe (£4.05) and apply NAILLUX Cuticle Cream (£4.55) to moisturise the skin around the nails.
SINFUL’S TOP 5 PRODUCTS FOR NAIL PROS’ 1 / SINFUL FROZEN LEAF Randomly cut leaves of iridescent glitter are suspended in a clear base so it can be used over any shade to create a dazzling nail art effect. 2 / CHROME POWDER This is a power powder that’s been massively SINFUL popular! Use to create FROZEN LEAF stunning mirror effect nails. 3 / GOLD RUSH GLITTER The perfect bit of sparkle for autumn, this superfine glitter can be blended with polishes or gels to create bespoke effects and finishes.
4 / SINFUL MATTE TOP COAT Matte nails are back this season so make the statement with this universal top coat. Apply over any shade to create a super matte finish, with added anti- chip protection. 5 / SINFUL PROSHINE INTENSE New for 2017; the classic reinvented. A traditional deep red hue blended with a decadent chocolate undertone – delicious!
SINFUL PROSHINE INTENSE
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mandate
FIND OUT ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THIS SEASON’S MEN’S GROOMING TRENDS FROM THE BEST IN THE BUSINESS. /28
JASON HALL HAIRDRESSING
C A PI TA L ME N
THE
Introducing the Wahl 5 Star Series - the specialist range of powerful, dynamic clippers & trimmers created to bring state of the art technology right to your barbershop or salon.
FINALE FINISHING TOOL IDEAL FOR FINISHING, FADING & BLENDING
CORDLESS MAGIC CLIP FASTER FEEDING & SMOOTHER BLENDING
LEGEND CLIPPER EXTENDED WIDE RANGE FADING
“T O B E T H E B E S T Y O U H A V E T O L E A R N F R O M T H E B E S T” Wahl Academy is open to barbers and hairdressers of all levels who want to develop their craft and push the boundaries. Learn the foundations of barbering, advanced techniques, the art of the fade and get up close & personal with the Wahl Artistic Team at exclusive evening seminars. Find out more at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/training or pop into your local Capital store. Wa h l P ro f e s s i o n a l U K
@ w a h l p ro u k
@ w a h l p ro u k /29
TERRI KAY AT MARK LEESON
ROSS CHARLES
“I think whenever you’re looking at a gent’s cut and style, it’s important to work technically but style naturally. It’s about embracing their natural hair texture and finding the product which suits it best. With wavy/curly hair it’s good to use a diffuser or leave it to dry naturally; with straight hair, you need to be careful not to hold the dryer too close to the head, to allow the hair to dry in its natural growth pattern. This way, styles will last longer and look more natural.” Jake Wanstall, Jo Hansford
"Lastly – love it or hate it – the man-bun is sticking around! It’s a style that needs a bit of maintenance though; if the hair is not kept in good condition and the hair lines aren’t kept sharp and clean, it can look unkempt and scruffy.” /30
TERRI KAY AT MARK LEESON TERRI KAY AT MARK LEESON
Ian Marshall, of Spargo Hairdressing gives us an update on what’s been happening in men’s hair, and what’s coming next. “Over the last few years, men’s hairdressing has become one of the fastest growing areas in the industry. Men are spending more time and money on their image than ever before and this is continuing to grow every day. “Anything goes nowadays and men and boys alike are willing to be more adventurous with their hair. Years ago, trends within both fashion and hair would be fairly straight forward and set in stone, with the male majority following, but now men are creating their own personal styles and we’re seeing much more variation within trends. “Of course, short hair is still the number one choice for a lot of male clients. Skin fades are bigger than ever, coupled with a little more length on top to create a nice contrast and balance. Styles like this give a man versatility as he can choose to wear them sleek or textured, depending on the occasion – or his mood. However, more men are growing their styles out and rocking mid to long hair. This can be slightly harder to get right, so make sure you add a modern twist to any style such as an undercut or a strong shape. “Quiffs are still a massive trend this year and can be worn in so many different ways; long, short, textured and rugged or smooth and smart. At the other end of the spectrum, the curtains trend is making a comeback, after years of being a long-forgotten part of the ‘90s! This style won’t suit everyone however, and it works best for guys with an oval or angular shaped face, with relatively straight hair. “Classic side partings are continuing to top the trends. They’re timeless and smart and have become a desirable style since the popularity of shows like Peaky Blinders and Christian Grey’s character in hit film 50 Shades of Grey. ROSS CHARLES
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THE WAY FORWARD
“Temple tapers are the hottest trend for men during the autumn months; it’s a style that’s developed from men growing their hair out from the aggressive fades that have been around this summer. The hair on the side of the head is tapered in the temple area and the nape area only. It’s a great, subtle way of adding a bit of an edge to a look.
Award-winning barber Tom Chapman, founder of Tom Chapman Hair Design in Devon, answers our questions on behalf of men’s grooming range, The Bluebeards Revenge. WHAT ARE THE TOP MEN'S TRENDS FOR AUTUMN? I would say it’s the Caesar crop; it’s been creeping back in, making a comeback over the past 12 months, so I think it’s set to finally hit the barbershops in a big way. When it comes to other styles for this season, I see hair becoming longer again, so taper fades instead of skin fades and scissor cuts will be increasing. IF YOU HAD TO PRESCRIBE JUST ONE THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE PRODUCT FOR ANY BARBERS' KIT, WHAT WOULD IT BE AND WHY? The brand new Talc is a must for any barbershop; it helps remove the hairs from your client which makes their experience far more pleasant, and keeps the area clean so you can create superior fades and tapers. It’s a win/win for you and your client.
TOM CHAPMAN FOR THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE
MATT STARK
THE INFLUENCERS
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MATT STARK
"This is basically a cropped style with plenty of movement through the internal centre panel of the haircut. The hair is still short on the sides but softer through the perimeter of the haircut. During the summer months, hair tends to get lighter in the sun. For clients who want some colour, continue that process through the autumn months by lifting their hair two or three shades lighter through the ends. This will accentuate texture through the mid-lengths and ends.” Chris Foster
TOM CHAPMAN FOR THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE
"For longer hair, we’re seeing much more texture in the hair on top of the head. Dry waxes and texture clays are used to accentuate that messier fall to men’s hair. Another look for clients to rock in the autumn months is the ‘Brit Crop’. Think Liam Gallagher and you’ll be in a good place.
WHICH CELEBRITIES/INFLUENCERS ARE HAVING AN EFFECT ON THE MALE MARKET? I think the two biggest influences will always be football players and musicians. I often get shown pictures of Cristiano Ronaldo, and David Beckham still has an impact. When it comes to music there’s always a lot of urban influence, so we’re seeing an increase in fades. WHAT IS THE LATEST TECHNIQUE THAT ALL BARBERS NEED TO KNOW ABOUT? Personally, I feel that barbers really need to refine their scissor work. As masters of precision and clipper work, if they can add great scissor skills to their arsenal then the current barber boom will only grow and grow. /31
BLUE TIT
STAY ROOTED!
“Roots are definitely sticking around for a while longer, and this season it’s more about shadowed roots. They’re a few depths deeper and just a few inches long, moving away from that really outgrown look, to something a little more polished and really wearable – yet still low maintenance!" "Just as contouring has taken over the makeup world, it’s now well and truly making waves in the hair industry. Contouring allows you to soften facial features and create the perfect hair colour not only to suit skin tone and eye colour, but also face shape. Place depth and lightness to create false illusions, light tones to elongate and lengthen and dark tones to soften and narrow the face shape.
IBIZA HAIR /32
TRACEY DEVINE SMITH FOR AFFINAGE
TRACEY DEVINE SMITH FOR AFFINAGE
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COLOUR world
EVERYONE’S GOT THEIR FAVOURITES WHEN IT COMES TO THE COLOUR FORECA ST FOR AUTUMN, SO WE’VE ROUNDED UP THE ONES THAT MAKE THE MOST SENSE WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR SALON – WITH A FEW QUIRK Y BITS THROWN IN!
"Baby-lights are another huge trend, and they’re not just for blondes! I’m loving glossy browns enriched with subtle and soft babylights that frame the face, creating lightness to showcase the haircut. "Finally, a favourite of mine that’s back on-trend is platinum blonde. We’re edging away from greys and silvers and going for that clean, crisp, sparkling platinum blonde. Thank goodness for Indola’s Blonde Expert range – with built-in bond technology for an extra level of lift, it makes my life as a colourist a lot easier!” CHANEL NOTT, COLOUR DIRECTOR AT REAL HAIR AND INDOLA GLOBAL AMBASSADOR
ELEVATE YOUR SERVICES
OPI ProSpa products combined with OPI’s tiered manicure and pedicure services are designed to enable you as a Beauty Professional to provide the utmost care for your clients by addressing their individual needs.
MANICURE KIT Set your salon apart with luxurious manicure products + services designed to nourish and protect skin. • • • •
Nail + Cuticle Oil Protective Hand Serum Micro-exfoliating Hand Polish Protective Hand, Nail & Cuticle Cream
OPI PRO SPA TIERED MANICURE SERVICES EXPRESS MANICURE Even clients in a rush will appreciate a moment to relax and renew.
SIGNATURE MANICURE Exceptional service and quality with each manicure.
PAMPER MANICURE Soothe, relax and pamper clients with the ultimate manicure.
Featuring essential OPI ProSpa products and techniques in a condensed service that allows you to give clients an elevated experience without increasing your service time.
Your clients will experience the quintessential OPI ProSpa products through exfoliation and intense moisture combined with a relaxing massage and acupressure.
The crème de la crème of manicures, your clients will benefit from unparalleled exfoliation, moisture & production, while reveling in an extended massage with acupressure designed to reduce stress and relieve tension.
PEDICURE KIT
Set your salon apart with luxurious pedicure products + services designed to nourish and protect skin. • Soothing Soak • Moisture Whip Massage Cream • Exfoliating Sugar Scrub • Advanced Callus Softening Gel
OPI PRO SPA TIERED PEDICURE SERVICES EXPRESS PEDICURE Effective and oh-so relaxing. This Express Pedicure featuring essential OPI ProSpa products gives clients a spa pedicure experience without increasing service time.
SIGNATURE PEDICURE Create a new standard in pedicure services that keeps your clients coming back.
PAMPER PEDICURE Relax and pamper clients with the ultimate OPI Pamper Spa Pedicure.
This OPI Signature Pedicure service includes the quintessential OPI ProSpa products to soak, exfoliate, lock in moisture and smooth callused feet while a regimen of relaxing massage and acupressure techniques complete the service.
The ultimate pedicure experience - your clients will benefit from unparalleled callus softening, exfoliation, moisture & protection, while reveling in an extended massage with acupressure designed to reduce stress and relieve tension.
OPIUK.com • 01923 240010 /33
DARKNESS & LIGHT
“The first look is ‘The Eclipse’, and can work for any individual, as the colour choice is dependent on their eye colour and skin tone. Whether the client chooses to wear it in a classic or quirky way really depends on their everyday look and style. The technique uses two different colours, applying the darker/deeper colour 2-3 inch on the root and the other colour on the rest of the hair, using your fingers to blend the colour where the colour changes. “The second look is called Frosty Lights, and it’s all about classic brickwork lights but with an extra quirk via frosty lights. To give this look that extra edge you can add the frosty lights just around the face and flashes on the mid-lengths and ends. Again, this look can be tailored to the client’s everyday style.” FIE KARAYIANNIS, JO HANSFORD
IBIZA HAIR
RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL
At Jo Hansford, Fie Karayiannis has created two different techniques, both of which can be interpreted in a classic or quirky way.
“The most popular colour trends that we’ve seen in the salon are still balayage and ombre, which focuses on colour at the end of the hair. The trend has moved away from being a bold shift in colour, to a more subtle colour transition from the roots to the ends, and a more complex blend of tones and shades being woven in.
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Nikki Porter, salon manager at Rubi Hair, says it’s time to go against the grain. “I like to lighten and brighten with colour in the cooler months – after making them richer, deeper and shinier over the summer. Muted caramels and rose gold tones are a real favourite this season! For something brighter I’m seeing a lot of the fiery copper tones coming in; they’re so rich and can be maintained easily at home with a colour injector shampoo or semi-permanent colour mousse.” NIKKI PORTER, RUBI HAIR, MALVERN
ASHLEY GAMBLE
OPPOSITES
IBIZA HAIR
“Strobing’s a fairly new trend we’ve been working with lately, especially through the summer months. Strobing is a popular makeup technique that highlights where the light would naturally hit the high points of the face and this works really well as a concept for hair as well. Strobing uses highlights to enhance the effect of natural light reflecting from the hair, particularly around the face and creates a very multi-tonal and youthful look.” ROBERT EATON, CREATIVE DIRECTOR RUSSELL EATON
RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL
“I think Pantone’s colour of the year, Greenery, will be inspiring a lot of colour trends; whether it’s full-on colour or subtle pops added in with other tones such as blues and lilacs. Green is a versatile colour and you can play with its warm and cool tones to make it more bespoke for each client, ensuring it works with their skin tone and also, their personality.
RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL
C A PI TA L COLO U R
ROYALS HAIR
COLOUR POP!
Discover a whole spectrum of style
S P EC T R U M From straight and sleek to volume, curls and waves, you can achieve a brilliant array of looks using our collection of Spectrum tools. With this high performance range, the creative possibilities are endless. /35
C A PI TA L BUSINE SS
How to grow your SALON BUSINESS
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ALWAYS WANTED TO CREATE A NATIONAL SALON GROUP OF YOUR OWN? OR DO YOU SIMPLY WANT TO GO FROM ONE, TO T WO? HOWEVER L ARGE YOU WANT TO GROW, WE’VE SPOKEN TO THE PEOPLE WHO’VE BEEN THERE AND DONE IT – AND LIVED TO TELL THE TALE!
PERRY PATRASZEWSKI OF BLUE TIT, EXPLAINS HOW THEY WENT FROM ONE TO TWO HOW LONG HAD YOUR FIRST SALON BEEN OPEN BEFORE YOU OPENED THE SECOND? We opened our first Blue Tit salon in Dalston, East London, in June 2011; the second salon in Clapton opened 14 months after. WHY DID YOU WANT TO OPEN A NEW SALON? Our initial salon in Dalston truly exceeded our expectations. From the beginning, it was extremely popular with on-trend Londoners looking for a unique salon offering. It was always part of our plan to open a new salon, complete with academy, as soon as we could. We knew that we had to catch the wave of opportunity and expand sooner than we had planned.
BLUE TIT
WITH EACH SALON OPENING, DOES THE PROCESS CHANGE? We have learnt many valuable lessons throughout the six years that we have been in business. Each salon opening has been an experience, and any problems that we have faced previously have ensured that we didn’t make the same mistake again. You can never stop the unexpected from happening, and each salon that we have opened has been totally different to the one before it. They each have their own individual identity, so we’ve never followed a ‘one size fits all’ approach. This in itself can make things more challenging, but it was very important for us to deliver something new and exciting at each of the locations.In a business sense, it does get easier: our knowledge has grown ten-fold; we have a tried and tested supplier list; our support network is exceptional, and we have built a brand that is now known and loved in London and further afield.
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WHAT WAS THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE FROM GOING FROM A SINGLE SALON TO TWO? One of the biggest challenges was building an administrative structure. By nature we are creative, and our passion for hair is what enticed us to start the Blue
Tit brand. The operational side of the business has been a learning curve, and accruing knowledge for the HR and financial side of Blue Tit has encouraged us to learn new things, as well as making us a lot more commercially savvy.
JOE HEMMINGS, OF BLOGGS SALONS, BRISTOL, OPENED HIS SECOND SALON THIS SUMMER I’ve been planning to open a second salon for well over a year. This time has given me the luxury of being able to review and improve every system that we had in the current salon and also how efficiently I run my business. The biggest challenge that I have faced is not being able to be onsite in the new premises during the building work, as we’ve turned a completely concrete, nonwater-tight shell into a beautiful space.
BLUE TIT
The other challenge has been to get my entire team educated on our ethos and philosophy, which all stems from giving the complete and perfect consultation. We have had numerous sessions on this and I've even brought in external training to help. It’s extremely important that all clients receive a consistent service from each team member across both of our salons. It’s also important to recruit and promote great people and let them do what they love doing. As I’m just in the process of opening the second salon I’m able to look back and see what I would do differently and what I’ve learnt. It’s a very exciting time, but you need to channel this excitement and remember the basics that come with opening a salon. As I’ve been stretched thin, trying to do everything,I’ve had to accept that I can’t be in two places at once, so it’s about really putting your trust in your team and those that are onsite in the new salon. /37
KAI WAN, OF P.KAI HAIR EXPLAINS WHAT CHANGED BETWEEN SALONS TWO AND THREE
JAMIE STEVENS IS ONE OF THOSE NAMES WHO NEEDS NO INTRODUCTION. HE SAYS, GOING FROM ONE TO TWO SALONS IS MUCH HARDER THAN GOING FROM TWO, TO THREE There are so many things that you learn the first time, by the time you get past the first two you have a pretty good idea about what works for the brand and what doesn’t. It’s important to take into account that different areas of your city/ country have very different clientele, and will mean different team members, so although your ethos is the same across the salons, there will be a certain level of individuality that you must allow for. Opening up a second and third salon is a real journey and of course there will be hurdles and challenges, which you must address immediately if you want to stay on top of things.
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I’ve learnt that it’s most important to have a good structure in place from the very beginning – especially in regards to your ethos and staff. You need to be clear with everyone in your team, as they are a representation of your brand. I love the quote from Richard Branson: ‘Train people well enough so they can leave; treat them well enough so they don’t want to!’
MARK WOOLLEY, FOUNDER OF ELECTRIC HAIR GROUP, NOW HAS SIX SALONS BEARING HIS NAME HOW LONG DID YOU HAVE YOUR FIRST SALON BEFORE OPENING THE SECOND? I opened the first Electric salon in 2007, and another one in Reading almost straight away. One year later, I opened in Oxford, then a year after that, we opened in Liverpool. Then, in 2013, we opened in /38
When looking to open a second or third salon, the first thing I thought about was location. Our first salon was doing really well; it was just on the outskirts of town, so we decided that it would be great to have a presence in the town centre, which led us to open up our second salon in a Victorian arcade. It became incredibly busy very quickly and as well as reaching new clients, served as the overflow for our first salon! The third salon opening was a natural progression for us; we’ve now taken the P.Kai brand just outside of Peterborough to Market Deeping, an affluent market village town. Location is key; our salons are close enough for us to feel like a salon group but just far away enough from each other for them to each make their mark on their individual areas. For me, going from two to three was much easier, as it was something we’d already done but it also felt like a good move for the whole team. When you have just two salons, there may be some team rivalry as you will have to split your time between them. With three teams, there’s still a competitive energy but it feels less intense.
Edinburgh. I waited for 18 months before opening in central London. WHAT WAS YOUR REASON FOR OPENING A NEW SALON? The plan for Electric was never to have lots of salons or to be seen a ‘salon group' - we like to focus on quality and individualism and also spread the word of Electric’s concept and products to other like-minded salons and stylists. WHAT ARE THE BIGGEST CHALLENGES YOU’VE FACED AS YOU’VE GROWN? There’s always a big challenge in having more than one salon, as you need to
increase the structure behind it too. We have worked hard to invest in a strong in-house team; Accountanting, Marketing and Operations are all in-house and that’s what helps. Each one of my salons also has a home-grown Art Director (in charge of quality and education, like a head chef) and also a home-grown manager that takes care of the day-to-day running of the salon. ARE THERE MORE SALONS TO COME? I’m happy with what Electric has achieved but we’re always looking to grow and become bigger and better without losing authenticity. It’s not on the cards at the moment but I’ll never say never.
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4 HEAT & 2 SPEED SETTINGS Including true cold shot
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AC LONG-LIFE MOTOR 1000+ hours
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MACADAMIA, ARGAN OIL AND KERATIN Infused hot ceramic bristles reduce frizz & add brilliant shine
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TWO salons, TWO styles
C A PI TA L FU RNI T U RE
Ryan's Hair
The Hair & Lounge THIS ISSUE WE’RE BRINGING YOU NOT ONE, BUT T WO GORGEOUS SALONS TO GET YOU THINKING ABOUT MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR REVAMP! FIRST UP, MEET THE L ADIES BEHIND THE HAIR AND LOUNGE IN BRIGHTON –THEIR SALON ONLY OPENED AT THE END OF MAY BUT THEY’RE ALREADY ENJOYING THE FRUITS OF THEIR L ABOUR WITH A DEDICATED CLIENTELE THAT LOVES THE SALON’S AIRY, CHILLED VIBE. /40
Here, co-owner Amanda tells the story... “Lynsey and I worked together in the past, for 10 years, so we were already used to working in a salon environment with each other, and it made total sense to start something of our own. We settled on a very up-and-coming area of Brighton, Ditchling Road. “The goal was to create a bespoke, relaxing experience, in a comfortable atmosphere. We’re all about providing a professional service in a welcoming surrounding – a home from home.
“When it came to the décor we had many ideas of our own, so we spent some time bouncing ideas off each other, but when we saw our fantastic chairs on a Capital Hair and Beauty leaflet, our imaginations took off from there! Those chairs had us researching interior ideas for months! We spent hours on Pinterest, going to vintage fairs around Sussex and of course we ended up going back to Capital to find our basin units, which we knew would end up being another focal point in our look.
unforeseen issues was that there was no gas supply to the building. It was an extra cost but we’re so happy with our Salon Master water heating system.
“We did have a budget in mind, but as this was going to be our first salon, we asked the advice of other salon businesses on what they thought the average revamp costs would be – most people we spoke to said around 20K. So, yes, we went over budget, mainly on the cost of the work force required for the renovation of the shop, especially with those hidden problems you find. One of our
“The Brighton Capital team were amazing; from the moment we called in to ask how we could get our hands on our gorgeous chairs, to setting up all the little bits a salon needs. We would never have been able to have such high-end quality chairs and backwash stations without Capital’s amazing finance options.
“The biggest challenge was time; everything takes so much longer than you think it will – especially when you’re doing a full renovation.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: CHARISSEKENION.COM
SALON: The Hair and Lounge INSTAGRAM: @thehairandlounge FACEBOOK: Search for The Hair and Lounge LOCATION: Ditchling Road, Brighton
THE CHAIRS THAT AMANDA AND LYNSEY FELL IN LOVE WITH
“Today we’ve got a salon that our clients love, so it’s all been worth it. A lot of people comment how pretty all the lights are, and that we’ve got a sociable and relaxed atmosphere. Oh and they love our suspended central table!” /41
NEX T UP, SHEIL A RYAN OF RYAN’S SHARES HER JOURNEY WITH CAPITAL “I opened my first salon back in 1993, in Blackheath Village, and we were there until 2007. I then sold Ryans and lived between Los Angeles, and London for four years, working with my son (Lee Ryan, of former boy band Blue) in the music industry. “When we came home in 2011 I decided to open a salon in Farnborough Village, Kent called Aroma Hair and Beauty; now my daughter owns that salon and I’ve come to West Kensington to bring Ryan's back.
“When it came to the interiors, I really wanted to create a beautiful, luxurious salon with a relaxed, creative atmosphere, so I went for soft brown, cappuccino, and a lovely bright white. On two of the walls I chose a specialist wallpaper which is actually made from sand. The grains have been dyed a rich mink, which blends perfectly with the floor. “I think the biggest challenge is making your ideas and imagination come to life, mainly because you’re working from very small samples of flooring and colour swatches, so faith is definitely required! “I chose the floor as my starting point, so I took the sample to Capital, and the team there was wonderful. I chose the style of chairs that I thought would work, and the team helped me go through their extensive colour range until we found the exact shade of warm brown that I needed. They also
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helped me choose the work stations; they’re contemporary and glamorous, made by Salon Ambience – I also chose the beautiful glass Salon Ambience trolleys. “The finished effect was more than I could have wished for. We added a beautiful grand piano and chandelier, which give the salon a mellow, relaxed atmosphere – and we have a retired gentleman who comes in to play the piano every Saturday afternoon. “Over the years, I have learned that guests will always expect a great cut and finish and fantastic colour; of course, that’s what they pay for. But what they will remember is the atmosphere, the great customer care and those little extras that turn their appointment into an experience. We’re looking forward to a wonderful future.”
PHOTOGRAPHY: SUPPLIED
C A PI TA L FU RNI T U RE
SALON: Ryan’s Hair INSTAGRAM: @ryanshairlimited FACEBOOK: Search for Ryan’s Hair Limited LOCATION: North End Road, West Kensington
Feel fearless with these confident colours, 8 fierce shades from the Gellux Autumn collection. Gellux 30 second gel polish have the answer to up to 15 days of no chip, no wear, no wait colour. AVAILABLE AT YOUR WHOLESALER NOW
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COLLECTIONS
C A PI TA L S T Y LE
WE’RE SPOILING YOU WITH FOUR AMAZING COLLEC TIONS THIS ISSUE, INCLUDING AN ALTERNATIVE LOOK AT WEDDING HAIR FROM LINTON & MAC.
Ashley Gamble The first thing that struck us when we received Ashley and Stephanie’s Intergalactic collection was the vibrant punch of colour throughout. Says Ashley: “We wanted to create hair that looked like it was out of this world, floating in space; we did this by using powerful movement and colours that energise the images and really give the illusion of floating through space. Creating colours that mimic planets and stars added elements that evoke different feelings with each image.” HAIR Ashley and Stephanie Gamble MAKEUP AND STYLING Ashley Gamble Beauty Team PHOTOGRAPHY Ashley Gamble /44
Linton & Mac Teaming up with local florist Kim Dalglish, Jen Linton and Jaye MacDonald have crafted a collection that’s all about the modern-day bride.
HAIR Jen Linton and Jaye MacDonald MAKEUP Stacey Stewart PHOTOGRAPHY Sam Brill WARDROBE SUPPLIED BY The Closet Vintage and Perfect Bridal Rooms
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"The Undone Bridal collection embraces a cross-section of styles for brides looking for a fresh approach, while letting their own personality and intrinsic beauty shine through,” says Jen. We couldn’t agree more!
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C A PI TA L S T Y LE
Ibiza Hair
During a trip to Milan last August to purchase salon furniture, Michael and Adrian of Ibiza Hair were intrigued by the way the women were dressed – chic and simple yet sophistication and self-assured. Their experience inspired the duo to create a collection that would capture this style and pay homage to women and their beauty and strength. HAIR Michael Piastrino and Adrian Rotolo of Ibiza Hair MAKEUP AND STYLING Kylie O’Toole PHOTOGRAPHY Andrew O’Toole STYLING Elaine Marshall /46
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HAIR Travis Bandiera for Royals Hair MAKEUP Chereine Waddell PHOTOGRAPHY Daniel Knott STYLING Danielle Soglimbene
Royals Hair
Royals Hair is one of our fave Aussie hair salons, and Travis Bandiera is a man who seriously knows what heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s doing when it comes to colour! How beautiful is his Iridescence collection? Inspired by reflections in soap bubbles, butterfly wings and sea shells, this collection is a masterclass in how to push your colour work. Take note!
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C CA A PP II T TA A LL S ST TO OR RE E F F II
CONTACTS CONTACTS ENGLAND ENGLAND Aldershot01252 01252325609 325609 Aldershot Ashford01233 01233501400 501400 Ashford Bournemouth01202 01202763442 763442 Bournemouth BrierleyHill Hill01384 01384483338 483338 Brierley Brighton01273 01273900111 900111 Brighton Bristol0117 0117951 9512222 2222 Bristol Carlisle01228 01228544134 544134 Carlisle Crawley01293 01293550052 550052 Crawley Croydon0208 0208681 6813815 3815 Croydon Dagenham0208 0208593 5931883 1883 Dagenham Eastbourne01323 01323508040 508040 Eastbourne Gillingham01634 01634365005 365005 Gillingham Harrow0208 0208863 8637371 7371 Harrow TR ADE ONLY… Hayes0208 0208573 5733941 3941 Hayes YOU WON’T FIND YOUR Hoddesdon01992 01992440866 440866 Hoddesdon Hove(Local) (Local)01273 01273327215 Hove CUSTOMERS SHOPPING HERE327215 Ipswich01473 01473253313 253313 Ipswich Kingston0208 0208549 5499058 9058 Kingston Lee 0208318 318ANTEE… 9421 0208 9421 PRICE MATCHLee GUAR Norwich01603 01603630747 630747 Norwich WE WILL GUAR ANTEE TO MATCH Oxford 01865775223 775223 Oxford 01865 Peterborough 01733561193 561193 01733 ANY LOCALLYPeterborough ADVERTISED PRICE Portsmouth023 0239266 92660400 0400 Portsmouth Southampton023 0238055 80553380 3380 Southampton HUGE R ANGE OF STOCK… TunbridgeWells Wells01892 01892526333 526333 Tunbridge Walsall01922 01922616111 616111 Walsall WE HAVE WHAT YOU WANT, Wolverhampton01902 01902351515 351515 Wolverhampton
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GlasgowHillington Hillington0141 0141883 8838876 8876 Glasgow NORTHERNIRELAND IRELAND NORTHERN Derry02871 02871371222 371222 Derry
REP.OF OFIRELAND IRELAND REP. Limerick061 061294580 294580 Limerick AINTREE (M&S) 01515 251515 ALDERSHOT 01252 325609 ASHFORD 01233 501400 BOURNEMOUTH 01202 763442 BRIERLEY HILL 01384 483338 DublinNangor NangorRd Rd01 014089022 4089022 Dublin BRIGHTON 01273 900111 BRISTOL 0117 951 2222 CARLISLE 01228 544134 CHESTER (M&S) 01244 390844 CRAWLEY 01293 550052 CROYDON 020 DublinCroke CrokePark Park01 018369761 8369761 Dublin 8681 3815 DAGENHAM 020 8593 1883 DERBY 01332 342228 EASTBOURNE 01323 508040 GILLINGHAM 01634 365005 HARROW 020 8863 7371 HAYES 0208 573 3941 HODDESDON 01992 440866 HOVE (LOCAL) 01273 327215 IPSWICH 01473 253313 KINGSTON 0208 549 9058 LEE 020 POMPADOUR POMPADOUR TRADE ONLY… ONLY… TRADE 8318 9421 LEEDS (M&S) 01132 445581 LINCOLN 01522 512250 MANSFIELD 01623 654736 MANCHESTER (M&S) Derby 01618 191660 NORWICH 01603 Derby01332 01332342228 342228 Youwon’t won’t findyour your customers shoppinghere here 01914 144773 OXFORD 01865 775223 PETERBOROUGHMansfield You find customers shopping 630747 NOTTINGHAM 01159 789115 NEWCASTLE (M&S) 01733 561193 023 Mansfield 01623 654736 01623PORTSMOUTH 654736 9266 0400 PRESTON (M&S) 01772 703946 SOUTHAMPTON 023 8055 3380 STOCKPORT (M&S) 01614 775479 TUNBRIDGE WELLS 01892 526333 Lincoln01522 01522512250 512250 Lincoln PRICE MATCH GUARANTEE… PRICE MATCH GUARANTEE… WALSALL 01922 616111 WARRINGTON (M&S) 01925 572234 WOLVERHAMPTON 01902 351515 WORTHING (LOCAL) 01903 507304 Nottingham 0115 9789115 9115 Nottingham 0115 978 Wewill willguarantee guaranteetotomatch matchany anylocally locallyadvertised advertisedprice price We
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SCOTL AND HUGE RANGE OF OF STOCK… STOCK… HUGE RANGE ABERDEEN 01224 620430 EAST KILBRIDE 01355 232224 EDINBURGH 0131 453 4300
Wehave havewhat whatyou youwant, want, when you wantitit 0141 552 4505 GLASGOW HILLINGTON 0141 883 8876 We you want EDINBURGH EAST (M&S) 0131 when 669 9987 GLASGOW
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LOYALTY SCHEME… SCHEME… LOYALTY NORTHERN IREL AND
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