THE TRENDS, THE INSPO, THE PRODUCTS
MOVING INTO NEUTRAL – NEW NAIL TRENDS
AUTUMNAL TEXTURES AND TONES
Autumn 23
Free for all Capital Hair & Beauty customers
EDITOR’S LETTER
Welcome to the autumn issue of the Capital Cut! We can’t believe summer’s over either but don’t worry, we’ve still got everything you need to stay inspired and entertained.
The inspiration starts over on page 6 with the brilliant, multi awardwinning Mark Leeson sharing a working week with us, and continues on page 14 as we discuss some of the most sumptuous hair colour trends for the season.
On page 22 we’re taking you all the way back to the ‘90s to revisit timeless styles that are being reinterpreted for right now; page 24 is your own personal moodboard if you’re thinking of a salon revamp and on page 28 we take the ick out of selling retail to your clients, whether you’re freelance or salon-based.
We truly hope you love this issue. As always, don’t hesitate to let us know what you’d like to see more of in your Capital magazine. See you next time!
Samantha Burkwood
ON THE COVER
This blunt, choppy bob in coppery red was a no-brainer for the cover this issue. Amazing work from the Rainbow Room, George Square team!
Photographer: Aleksandra Modrzejewska
Hair: Rainbow Room International
George Square
Makeup: Alex Kellet and Melody Green
Styling: Michalina Kicinska
2 3
CONTENTS 05 TRIED AND TESTED New must-haves for you to try 06 WEEK IN MY SHOES Meet award-winner Mark Leeson INSIDE
HOW TO: MASTER RETAIL Selling is easy when you know how 30 MEN’S UPDATE Time to play
THE BEAUTY EDIT Kit essentials for the new season
28
33
THE HEADLINES
new with Capital?
HYDRATION RULES
tips for the
in seasons
SHADES
AUTUMN Chocolate,
totally edible colour trends
MOVING INTO NEUTRAL Nail trends and techniques you
to know
‘90’S HAIR NOW!
WHAT’S THE MOOD?
and inspo for a new look
09
What’s
10
Skincare
change
14 ALL THE
OF
Tiramisu –
20
need
22
The iconic era is back 24
Ideas
Marketing Manager
DISCOVER NEW BONACURE R-TWO BEFORE AFTER 1 Two-product combination, including the R-Two Sealer. 2 Up to 14 days, using the full product regime. Results may vary depending on hair type, quality and history. 93% 90% 10x 14 less hair breakage 1 less split ends 1 more resistance to repeated hair damage days 2 of proven, transformative results INSTANT TRANSFORMATIVE REPAIR FOR EXTREMELY DAMAGED HAIR DISCOVER MORE SCAN HERE
All your autumn styling and prep products.
Oh so touchable
Olaplex Volumizing Blow
Dry Mist is the blowdrying product that gets the job done fast. Offering heat protection up to 450ºF, this super light mist won’t leave hair sticky or stiff – just soft, bouncy and touchable. 150ml, £15.50/€17.70
Straight results
For hair that’s super straight and free from frizz, Sweet Hair The First Shampoo’s unique combination of five acids creates a chemical reaction. Used alongside the heat from your flat iron the results last up to 12 weeks and you don’t have to warn your clients off products that contain sulphates! 50ml, £14.95/€17.95
Better blondes
Bleaching doesn’t have to mean to damage; in fact with Schwarzkopf BLONDME’s Bond Enforcing Premium Lightener 9+ Lift the hair is reinforced from within resulting in minimised hair breakage while offering maximum lift for all hair types. 450g, £23.35/€28.90
Colour payoff
Clients get so excited about getting their colour done; be sure to send them home with products that keep that colour going.
Color Wow’s Color Security
Shampoo is perfect for all hair types and leaves colour vibrant and build-up free. 250ml, £10.75
Radiant colour
L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Vitamino Refill Shampoo ticks a lot of boxes. Offering up to eight weeks protection from colour fade, hair looks more radiant and shiny and the packaging uses 65% less plastic than the regular bottle. 1500ml, £21.75/€24.40
Beach vibes
Enriched with Aloe Vera and fragranced with Coconut, Bondi Sands Professional Solution Spray Dark is ideal for those with olive toned skin or anyone looking for deep result.
£40.00/€47.00
Naturally healing
Tea Tree is a natural antiseptic which makes it the perfect ingredient in Salon System’s Just Wax Tea Tree Creme Wax Pot. This creamy and smooth strip wax can be used anywhere on the body and is great value for money. 450g, £8.05/€7.90
Shop all this and more at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk and capitalhairandbeauty.ie today
designed to ensure precise refinement and lasts four times longer than the average file. Pack of 10, £9.75/€11.30
5 TOP PICKS
AND
TESTED TRIED
Location Mansfield, Nottingham
Years in business
Next year will be 30 years!
Social handles @markleeson68
IN MY A WEEK SHOES
Monday
Monday always generally finds me educating; this week I’m with the Visionaries, a team of five individuals that have earned their place on a year-long Revlon Professional initiative with me as their mentor. This year we have an extraordinarily talented, keen team of individuals and I’m really enjoying the process.
Tuesday
It’s a particularly busy week out of the salon in the run up to a show for the International Hair Awards in Palma, Spain this weekend. I’m beginning to wonder how I’m going to get through it, but fortunately I love every aspect of what I do and feel incredibly lucky. Today I’m on set at Revlon HQ in Camden to undertake a special project called LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION! with four lucky Revlon guests.
Wednesday
Today is catch-up day; lots of planning, a bit of admin, but fortunately my partner Richard takes care of most of that. I’m catching up with our photographer and planning in some shoots for the team. We’re lucky to have a strong PR presence which includes regional press and they often interview me on trends. Today I’m talking to a local TV station about our nominations in the International Hairdressing Awards and our previous success in the British Hairdressing awards.
Thursday
Back to Mansfield to see my beloved dogs Colby and Carrington and to spend more time on prep, before going to the salon to look after my regular clients. It’s busy weeks like this I could honestly, hand on heart, do without salon work. Having said that, I never forget that I wouldn’t be where I am today without having built such strong foundations and being fortunate enough to have an immensely talented team.
Friday
I’ve got a flight to catch to Palma! I’m really excited about our line-up and we’ve got some early rehearsal times so I can’t wait to get there.
Saturday
More prep with the models, who are all looking absolutely amazing! It’s times like these that I really feel that I want to
pinch myself! I’m so grateful to my team for their constant support and hard work. It’s great to see all the Revlon family who have come to Palma this weekend for the Front Row Symposium.
Sunday
It’s the big day – the annual International Hairdressing Awards, so it’s a day full of rehearsals, prepping and planning – let’s get on with the show!
6 7 THE CAPITAL CUT AUTUMN 23 ADVICE
It’s no surprise that Revlon Professional Global Ambassador Mark Leeson’s feet rarely touch the ground! Not only is Mark nominated for British Hairdresser of the Year 2023, he’s just been awarded the title of International Hairdresser of the Year at the Australian Hair Industry Awards. Let’s take a peek into a week of one of the industry’s most creative forces.
Mark’s Advice
“Will it be easy? Nope Will it be worth it? Absolutely!”
All imagery supplied
THE HEADLINES
Find out what’s happening at Capital
EXCEL WITH SUNSHINE TRAINING
Launching 25 courses with Capital, Sunshine Training is renowned for attention to detail when it comes to creating courses that truly get to the heart of your learning. Whether you want to add new services to your freelance business, or you’re considering becoming an educator, with Sunshine you can do it all.
Amongst the newest courses you’ll find Microblading and Powder Brows as well as our FREE Professional Standards Foundation Course, Level 3 Award in Education and Training and our Gua Sha Upskill Course. All our courses are offered remotely making it easy for you to apply and get to work! We want our students to stand out as the very best in the industry. Sunshine Training is a leading hair and beauty training provider working extensively in the U.K. and New Zealand.
EXCLUSIVE TO CAPITAL CUSTOMERS; GOLDWELL’S NEW LOYALTY APP
Goldwell is a brand that has an army of loyal customers, and with its new in-store app, it wants to give something back. Designed exclusively for Capital Hair and Beauty shoppers, accessing the benefits of the app is free and easy to use. Simply purchase any Goldwell Colour product, including TopChic, Colorance, Elumen and more*, and you will earn reward stamps. Once you accumulate 15 stamps you’ll receive a FREE Goldwell System Developer! To get you off to a good start, simply scan the below QR code to create an account and earn your first stamp.
*Full T&Cs available via the QR code
9
CAPITAL NEWS
RULES
It starts from within
As soon as the temperature drops, we start to reach for our cardis and jumpers and of course, we turn to the central heating. But while it’s giving us that much needed warmth, having the heating on for extended periods of time begins to suck moisture from the air, and in turn, from our skin. A key piece of advice for clients who have started to experience dryer, more textured skin, is to increase their water intake. There’s no one method that suits everyone however; it’s important to take into account your clients’ lifestyle – for example, someone who goes to the gym regularly will need more water than someone who doesn’t.
While you don’t want to be too nosy and ask your client what their weight is, you can advise them that an easy water calculation is based on their weight in lbs, multiplied by 0.5. The resulting amount is how many ozs of water they should drink each day. If that all seems too complicated, simply advise them to drink water before they feel thirsty because if they’re thirsty, they’re already dehydrated.
Another easy option is to encourage your clients to eat more fruits and vegetables as these foods naturally contain more water than processed foods.
H is for Hyaluronic
If you know your skincare then you’ll undoubtedly know of the hydrating powers of Hyaluronic Acid (HA). A beloved ingredient in skincare, and now haircare, HA is able to harness up to 1,000 times its weight in water. As such it draws moisture into the skin and keeps it there for longer. When it comes to your facial treatments, you should definitely be including a HA serum at the moisturising stage, to lock in all of the goodness you’ve done.
However, there’s a really common issue that often comes up with HA usage when it is applied directly to clean, dry skin. What this does is pull the existing water from the skin – remember, it attracts moisture. So, whenever you advise clients on how to use a HA serum, be sure to tell them to either apply it to damp skin or to apply it after a skin essence and before their moisturiser. This way they create a moisture sandwich that keeps skin supple all day long. A bonus tip for extra hydration? Tell them to invest in a hydrating facial mist and apply it in between each stage of their skincare in the mornings and evenings.
From head to toe
When it comes to the cooler months, it’s not just the skin on the face that can become dry; elsewhere on the body, areas such as the elbows and shins can become incredibly dry and itchy. To ensure irritation is kept to a minimum, again, hydrating skincare products are key, and when it comes to locking in moisture, you should advise clients to find a body oil that they love. This way, once they’re out of the shower and they’ve applied lotion, they can use a top coat of oil to lock in that hydration.
Speaking of showers, it’s vital that you advise your clients to ditch the hot showers. Yes, it might feel cosy and warm as the temperatures drop, but hot showers can strip the skin of its own naturally occurring oils and leave it prone to intense dryness and irritation. Showers should be short and lukewarm and followed with delicate drying with a soft, fluffy towel. This is not a time for harsh scrubbing!
10 11 THE CAPITAL CUT AUTUMN 23 BEAUTY
As the seasons change, so do the needs of your clients when it comes to their skin. Read on for ways to improve hydration, inside and out.
HYDRATION
Shutterstock Shutterstock Shutterstock
THE NEXT GENERATION OF BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AND BARBERING
SUPPORTING United behind British Hairdressing
The truly wonderful thing about hair is how it can make anyone feel good about themselves. As passionate professionals within this field, the Great British Hairdressing Team Training knows that hairdressing and barbering is not merely a job – it can change lives.
While cutting and styling someone’s hair can leave them feeling good inside and out, going into the field of hairdressing or barbering can be just as life-enhancing for the professional. Hairdressers and barbers can witness true transformations whenever someone sits down in their chair, while also nurturing their own creativity, growth and talent.
Both hairdressing and barbering offer endless opportunities for self-expression; harnessing the skills of sculpting, shaping, cutting and colouring to create uniquely personalised styles to reflect any client’s personality.
Now is the perfect time for anyone who’s been thinking about going into the world of hair to get started, and the GB Hair Team is here to help with your training.
Start today
The Great British Hairdressing Team Training offers something for every hairdresser and barber – from the seasoned expert with a passion for continuous education, or a pro looking for an inspirational refresh, GB Hair is all about helping anyone advance in their learning.
Time to explore
When it comes to pushing creative boundaries, the GB Hair team has partnered with Goldwell Colouring to bring the very best when it comes to exploring and creating exciting colouring techniques in our training courses. Now is the time for imagination to run wild and for professionals – future and existing – to embrace the artistic freedom that comes with colouring and pushing creative boundaries.
Capital backing
The GB Hair team is set to embark on the journey to becoming winners once more at the OMC World Hairdressing Championships and is so excited to be backed by Capital Hair and Beauty. To support the team, Capital has opened various training facilities across the UK to enable anyone to be part of the GB Hair Team Training as it carries out its National Training Programme – and the support doesn’t stop there; Capital is also supporting the National Great British Hairdressing Championship on May 27th 2024 – look out for information at any Capital store!
Find out more about how the GB Hair Team can offer real benefits by visiting www.gbhairteam.org.uk
12 13 THE CAPITAL CUT AUTUMN 23
national training programme in Capital stores and colleges across the UK. Discover how the GB Hair Team can offer real benefits to you by visiting www.gbhairteam.org.uk
New
Gary Pearce, Gemma Miles, Adam Gregory
AUTUMN ALL THE SHADES OF
As we ease out of warmer months and towards cosier times, it’s inevitable that your clients begin to think of more low-maintenance shades. Softness is a key word for autumn but there’s also a clean girl aesthetic emerging too. Read on for what the best colourists in the business have to say.
Mellow and moody
Everyone’s talking about latte makeup right now, and for OSMO Ambassador Jake Nugent, coffee is also a big inspiration when it comes to autumn hair colour trends.
“Personally, I think we’re going to see more Tiramisu; a trend that consists of three different shades of brown: a warm tan shade with a yellow undertone, a deep warm brown, and a light brown with a more gold reflect. The trend also features a shadowed root or a root smudge, where the highlights are lightly painted over with a shade closer to the clients’ natural hue. This creates a very natural blend of dark and light, which ends up looking natural as well as being extremely low maintenance.
“Another favourite of mine is the candlelit brunette, which uses very subtle baby lights to lift dark hair and give it a warm glow. By using this technique and sprinkling in face-framing highlights, you end up with shiny, reflective hair. It’s a very soft look that only requires minimal colour so it ends up being really low maintenance.”
Warm and chocolate-y
All the best things happen in Autumn; bonfires, pumpkin spice lattes, hot chocolates, and that also happens to be a key hair colour trend for the season. For Emma Simmons at Salon 54, it’s all about rich results.
She says, “this trend involves rich, chocolate brown shades that exude sophistication and elegance. It’s all about clean lines and a polished look. Think decadent, velvety chocolate, for a beautiful, timeless hue.”
Tina Mehmi, of the RUSH Colour Workshop Team agrees with Emma, and says that chocolate works for every skin tone.
“For those with an already brunette base, a chocolate hue is one of my favourite ways to add a glow to their complexion and allow their eyes to really pop. For those with darker skin tones, deeper shades of chocolate and espresso are incredibly flattering. Espresso is more of a cool tone while chocolate is rich and warm and gives a truly mesmerising shine,” says Tina.
Shine is the key to rich, dark tones, and an easy way to guarantee it is to play with glosses. Alex Thaddeus advises: “to really make chocolate really luxurious, try adding an intense gloss so that the richness of the colour catches the light.
“The beauty of this colour is how it suits different skin tones and eye colours, and allows for subtle variations. I think we’ll definitely be seeing lots of lighter brown highlights added to the deep chocolate brown shade and the use of money pieces to frame the face.”
On to ombré
No matter which trends come and go, ombré is always a crowd-pleaser as it’s the perfect way to play. For Darrel Starkey, of Hair by Darrel, this is the season of ombré and balayage is on the back burner for now.
“Ombré will be making a huge return in the salons but it’s going to be more of a subtle than statement look; think soft, blended brunettes and golden blondes, adding the warmth that we all need at this time of year. Autumn is all about the easy transition of colour and ombré pays tribute from the summer colours as they
transition into autumn. You can’t deny that this is a very low maintenance trend and will absolutely appeal to anyone who is feeling the brunt of the cost of living,” says Darrel.
Clean girls
Tracey Ann Smith says your clients will be crying out for a clean girl look after a full-on Barbie blonde summer!
“Many of my clients come in asking me to tone their hair down for autumn, aiming for a softer, more natural look, while staying blonde. I think ‘Expensive blonde’ will be huge this season – it’s a trend that combines highlights and lowlights to create soft, golden tones: a perfect ‘clean girl’ look for the colder months,” says Tracey.
That clean theme continues for Tina Mehmi. She says: “We will see super clean, almost pearlescent, blondes – a fusion of creamy blonde and icy blonde that should look picture perfect, with no regrowth or brassiness in sight. For clients wanting to achieve this shade, ensure you go through a thorough consultation with them on maintenance in between appointments,” advises Tina.
COLOUR TRAINING AT CAPITAL
If these warm and wonderful colour trends have got you thinking it’s time to brush up your skills, be sure to check out our array of colourfocused training. Why not try our Balayage & Freehand Colour Course? It’s ideal for anyone looking to progress their colour knowledge and techniques. For more information head to capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/ training/cutting-colour-courses/ balayage-freehand-colour-course
14 15 THE CAPITAL CUT AUTUMN 23 COLOUR
Schwarzkopf Professional
Schwarzkopf Professional
Freddie’s
HOB
Salons
Tim Scott Wright
Freddie’s Schwarzkopf Professional
POWERFUL, PROFESSIONAL TOOLS. NOW IN GOLD.
Powered by advanced lithium technology for the ultimate cordless cutting performance. Our heavy-duty Super Motor range of professional grooming tools are now available in a gold finish. Featuring ultra-sharp Japanese Steel blades and a high-torque brushless motor for consistent fast blade speed, even through longer, thicker hair. And the Titanium Foil Shaver gives exceptional crisp fading and blending.
CARING FOR COLOUR
You’ve read about the techniques; now it’s time to check you’re all stocked up on your colour care.
“Glossing services and tints are a fantastic way to get that perfect high shine brunette hue. However, these should also be teamed with regular in-salon and at-home treatments to ensure hair retains a high shine finish.”
Tina
“A moisturising shampoo and conditioner are a must for clients to invest in to ensure that colour looks its best at all times and is given the hydration it needs. If your client is going for lovely, expensivelooking colour it’s vital that it stays looking expensive and shine is key for that.”
Tina Mehmi,
Olaplex No.3 Hair Perfector 100ml
Treatment
Colour Workshop Team
Head to capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk and capitalhairandbeauty.ie to shop all your colour essentials and more!
17
RUSH
Mehmi, RUSH Colour Workshop Team
Wella Professionals Color Fresh Mask 150ml £10.00 / €12.75
Redken Color Extend Magnetics Shampoo 300ml £12.80 / €13.95
Redken Color Extend Magnetics Conditioner 300ml £14.05 / €15.20
£15.50 / €17.70
Redken Extreme Anti-Snap Leave In
250ml £15.10 / €17.50
Kerrie DiMattia
#GOGOLDWELL COLLECT REWARDS WITH SELECTED GOLDWELL PURCHASES IN-STORE! Scan the QR code to create your account and earn your first stamp. Purchase any color product from Topchic, Colorance, Elumen or @Pure Pigments and earn reward stamps. Earn enough stamps and receive exclusive rewards and free products on your next store visit! For further details and full terms and conditions scan the QR code through to the app.
SCAN ME
NEW GOLDWELL DIGITAL LOYALTY PROGRAMME
MOVING INTO
NEUTRAL
Optical illusions
The biggest nail trends of early 2023 were all about creating an illusion, whether that was a glossy glazed doughnut, an aura nail design or a velvet –also known as cat eye – finish, we’re still playing with these looks, but in much warmer, more neutral shades. Think cappuccino and espresso tones of brown with an ombre effect, like these French Illusion nails by @nailartbyqueenie
Louise, Salon System Nail Expert, forecasts what’s next for nails.
This Autumn we will see earthy tones of beige, brown and grey making a comeback alongside bright pops of reds, bottle greens and purples. The clean girl manicure will still be very popular with sheer nudes or even clear looks. Nail art wise, chromes and torties (tortoiseshell) will still be strong as well as combinations of matte and shiny designs and skinny, dark French manicures.
Unusual embellishment
Think raindrops on roses and clear bubble embellishment for texture that’s a little more subtle. From clear little blobs to pretty pearls, this is a great trend for a signature nail or on each tip, and works well with pearlescent shades and clear washes of colour.
Two-tone
I think Autumn nail trends for this year will be super chic and minimal. Think neutral colours with very simple yet elegant nail art. Soft browns, deep reds and earthy greens will be the go-to colour paletes, and we’ll be adding touches of glazed layering or small, more detailed nail art and some delicate embellishments. I also think we’ll see some gorgeous shades of mocha, taupe, spiced pumpkin and maroon. When it comes to the finish, it’s high gloss and glazed looks all the way!
Head to capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk and capitalhairandbeauty.ie to shop for all your nail essentials today
Another way to keep things simple this season is by working within a limited colour palette. Simplifying shades can be challenging but when it’s done right, it looks really impactful. Plus, by keeping things simple, this could be a great option for clients on a budget who still want a stylish look. We love this neutral brown-themed look from @browngirlhands
20 21 THE CAPITAL CUT AUTUMN 23 NAILS
Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System Nail Expert and owner of Sketched by J-A Nails shares her take on the trends of the season.
As we head into a new season, things are getting a little softer and more neutral, but that doesn’t mean we’re not having fun! Read on for some expert predictions on what’s next for nails.
Karen
Karen Louise
Karen Louise
Julie-Anne Larivière
Karen Louise
90’S HAIR NOW
The ‘90s were all about excess – super skinny eyebrows, power suits and padded shoulders and the hair had to match! Think supermodel volume, bobs, face-framing layers and edgy Pixie cuts. Read on for what our faves are predicting in this ‘90s hair revival.
Supermodel glam
Before Bella and Gigi Hadid there were the iconic supermodels, all known by their first names. We’re talking Naomi (Campbell), Linda (Evangelista), Christy (Turlington) Cindy (Crawford) –all known for their catwalk personas and glamorous looks. For Tina Farey, Editorial Director at RUSH, the rest of 2023 is going to see a return to the big, sexy hair that the ‘90s were known for.
“While the past couple of years have been all about laidback, effortless hair, we’re now seeing a return to ‘90s-inspired hairdos. Think Pamela Anderson’s messy updo and big bouncy blowouts that were seen on the likes of supermodels Cindy Crawford and Claudia Schiffer.
“I personally love this look; it’s so glamorous and sexy and it can add a lot of diversity too. For example, you can use rollers or curling tongs to create more of a curl or extra volume, or you can use a round brush to create a more flicked-out take on the look that’s super classy. In 2023 the trend will be updated by having a more polished finish and lots of shine, creating a more luxe, expensive feel. Be sure to use a serum or oil before blow-drying and finish with a shine spray followed by hairspray for optimum shine and hold,” advises Tina.
Modern Pixie
When the ‘90s icons weren’t wearing their hair big and voluminous, you can bet they were playing with super short crops and cuts like the Pixie. Seen on the likes of Oscar-winner Halle Berry and Demi Moore in classic movie Ghost , the ‘90s Pixie was known for a beautiful, tapered neck with weighty layers on top. Suzie McGill, Artistic Director at Rainbow Room International, says the Pixie has never gone out of style.
WHAT’S THE WIXIE?
Kelly Shone agrees with Suzie – the pixie never went out of style! Here the OSMO ambassador explains how it’s been updated in the form of the Wixie.
The Wixie is a cross between a Pixie and a very short shag. It’s looks softer than a Pixie and has little tendrils and wings around the sides and back. It’s much lower maintenance and more casual than a Pixie cut, so your clients can embrace the grow-out going eight to 12 weeks in between cuts.
To create a Wixie on my clients, I keep the length around the ears and nape of the neck, giving a softer, more feminine look and take the front sections short – even to micro fringe length. Top tip; a razor is fantastic to use for creating texture and removing weight.
The Wixie Cut is extremely flattering for heart-shaped faces, accentuating the jawline and cheekbones beautifully, but it works equally as well on anyone wanting to make a statement.
“I love that we’re starting to see the return of the ‘90s Pixie – a shorter, more relaxed yet super grungy cut that shouts ‘I woke up like this!”
Suzie also says that the new take on the classic is more sophisticated and easier to wear.
“In the past the Pixie was very choppy and styled with the use of waxes and gels, but the key to the new version is that the layers look a lot softer and fluffier. It should still be cut super short with layers throughout, but should be styled so that the hair looks untouched. I would advise hair serum or a small amount of mousse throughout the hair before blow-drying and then use my fingers to break up the layers and add a soft texture.”
CUTTING COURSES AT CAPITAL
As you’ve read, many of these ‘90s hair trends are rooted in classic and timeless styles. If you’re looking to refresh your cutting skills why not try our Classic Cutting Course?
For more information head to capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/ training/cutting-colour-courses/ classic-cutting-course
Clients can maintain their Wixie by using their fingers instead of styling tools and should focus on lifting and sculpting the shape whilst tweaking the longer edges to encourage a more natural flick. Anyone rocking a Wixie with straight hair can maintain the shape with a brush or straighteners.
Face-framing layers
If you’re going to go back to the ‘90s to look at face-framing layers, then it’s likely you’ll stumble upon The Rachel, a haircut that went viral – before the internet was a thing – and was named after Jennifer Aniston’s character in the hit TV series Friends The Rachel had chunky highlights and was all about layers that framed the jawline. The cut itself came about by accident as Jennifer’s stylist was simply trying to remove her damaged ends!
Today layers have returned, and for Andrew Smith, of Andrew Smith Salons, they are perfect for teaming with short haircuts such as a long bob or shag.
“The best thing about this trend is that it works for everyone - no matter the hair type, length or face shape, but particularly those with wider face shapes. This style can help give the face softness and looks great on shorter hair, but it’s also a great way to update a longer style and give it more character and volume.”
Bob’s back
You can’t talk about the ‘90s without mentioning the bob – a super swingy style that worked well cut high up just
below the cheekbones or just scraping the shoulders just like Uma Thurman in the movie Pulp Fiction . For Alex Thaddeus it’s all about choosing between a blunt bob or a flipped-out bob.
Alex says: “Today’s blunt bob is not too precise but still perfect for anyone looking for a bold look. The flipped bob with its classic flipped-out ends and middle part allows clients to make the look their own by playing with products such as a texturising spray to style and add definition. I’m looking forward to seeing more bobs styled with a bouncy blow out for a truly ‘90s finish.”
22 23 THE CAPITAL CUT AUTUMN 23 TRENDS
Schwarzkopf Professional
Schwarzkopf Professional
Schwarzkopf Professional
Kevin Kahan
HOB Salons
OSMO Blinding Shine Definer
Salt Spray
OSMO Matt
WHAT’S THE MOOD?
Whether you’re a salon owner or have an at-home client space, your aesthetic plays a key role in how you’re perceived and how your clients feel. Read on for the latest interior trends and new salon owner Charlotte Hickey’s firsthand experience.
#1 RATTAN
This natural fibre is having a major moment in home interiors and it’s no surprise it’s popping up in salons too. Rattan is a naturally growing vine that can be twisted and woven into any shape, and lately it’s showing up in the form of reception desks, chairs, stools and lighting. It’s perfect for adding a touch of nature to any space, and works well with any colour palette, from black and white to pretty pastels and bold tones.
#3 SMALL DETAILS
Whatever the size of your space, it’s always the details that clients remember. That could be a set of beautiful towels colour co-ordinated with a hand soap dispenser and flowers in a small area of your athome space, a well-thought out coffee nook or it could be a tranquil salon area of lush plants and cosy seating. It’s all about creating little moments of calm and beauty and is a great way to revamp your space if you’re on a tighter budget right now.
Charlotte Hickey shares how she created Hair by Charlotte, a beautiful, calming environment, in Swinton, Manchester.
When it came to creating my dream salon, I was lucky enough to start with a blank canvas. I purchased the building and used this as an opportunity to completely move away from the aesthetic I’d created at my previous rented premises. Working with interior designer Jessica May Designs, we created a colour palette that felt very grounded with earthy materials and bold shapes. As I specialise in Balayage, which is all about combinations of neutral tones, I wanted the salon to reflect that with a combination of neutral hues blended together with an emphasis on texture and dimension.
#2 NATURE’S TONES
Ocean shades of blue and greens are amazing tones that work well with pops of colour such as greys and yellows as well as metallic tones. These chilled out shades also make a brighter alternative if neutrals aren’t your thing but you still want to keep things light. Blue is known for its relaxing influence while green is known to energise so how about using both in your space, for different areas of the client experience? You could have peaceful aqua blues in a treatment area and high energy shades of green in the reception area to get clients ready for their next transformation.
To create texture and make the most of the light, we had the walls Venetian plastered and opted for warm feature lights so our clients’ hair always looks good. We chose a brunette herringbone floor for more earthy, warm tones and to add further texture we created a white runway centrepiece that extends across the length of the salon. I feel that it’s really worked and the space provides a peaceful, luxurious atmosphere for clients.
If I could share one piece of advice, I would say that, as well as having an aesthetic you love, you also need to consider practical priorities, such as storage. We opened up the salon to ensure an effortless flow throughout the salon and integrated as much storage as possible. I think this has also encouraged interaction and communication between customers and stylists as it’s such an open space.
Hairbycharlotte.co.uk @hair_by_charlotte
Image credit: Melissa Hague Photography
Head to your nearest Capital store for all your furniture needs today
24 25 THE CAPITAL CUT AUTUMN 23 FURNITURE
All
images on this page: Salon Ambience
PARLOR is the exclusive furniture range by Capital Hair & Beauty. Proudly built on the same expertise, quality and reputation, which has made Capital the UK’s number one independent supplier for
26 27 THE CAPITAL CUT AUTUMN 23
DISCOVER THE COLLECTION IN-STORE AND ONLINE CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUTY.CO.UK // CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUTY.IE
£249/€295 + VAT
DISCOVER THE COLLECTION IN-STORE AND ONLINE CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUTY.CO.UK // CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUTY.IE
Styling Chair HOLBORN
£599/€825 + VAT
Barber Chair
SOHO
HOW TO: MASTER RETAIL
“These days, it’s really easy to assume that everyone knows the right tools for their hair, but it’s really not the case. In fact, many clients admit that trying to find the right products and tools for their hair can be challenging. There are so many available, and it can be overwhelming! This is why we offer all clients dedicated one-on-one time to discuss their needs and give them the opportunity to try the tools for themselves. Then, once they’ve got to grips with it, we teach them self-styling techniques to give them the confidence that they’ve selected the right tool for them.
“It’s not about the hard sell; you’re giving your clients professional advice so that they have confidence when they’re creating their dream hair at home.”
Christopher Laird, Director of November Collective and ghd Pro Team Artist
“Selling doesn’t need to be hard or something you dread! If you’re confident in what you’re selling and know your craft, you can talk about it with ease.
“Be authentic and don’t force anything; think of it as providing a service –something that’s going to be helpful to the client. You’re there to help them achieve better skin, hair, nails etc. Create a need for the product and always ask openended questions. Most of all, don’t get disheartened if your client isn’t interested this time around.”
Lisa Stone, Salon System Educator
“I like to take a very subtle approach to retail – I want my clients to feel listened to and provide them with the products that will make a difference to them. Testers are always a good opportunity for clients to try products for themselves before they fully commit to a full-size product, but the key is to promote products you love so your enthusiasm comes naturally! Build trust; once you solve one hair problem with a product a door of sale opportunities is opened. It’s also important to remember less is more – too many products can leave your clients feeling overwhelmed and too much choice can lead to no purchase.”
Lea Shaw, Rural Fringe Hair Salon
“When trying to sell products to clients, the last thing you want to be doing is forcing the issue. The best approach you can take is to listen to your client and their hair needs – you want to know your clients. Once you know what they need, you can take them on a journey,
explaining each step you take when styling their hair and also explaining the benefits of each product. The idea is to educate your clients with your wealth of knowledge – be confident, you’re the expert.”
Alex Thaddeus, Alex Thaddeus Hairdressing
“Retail in the salon is something that many are apprehensive about, as they don’t want to push the hard sell and want to ensure the appointment is exactly how the client wants it to go. However, there are some fantastic ways that you can incorporate some subtle retail seeding into the appointment – by adding to the client journey. After lockdown, here at F&M Hairdressing we slightly altered our client journey; taking our retail area back and setting up mini retail areas throughout the salon, so when the client was on their journey, they could actively see our subtle marketing throughout each
area of the salon. Although simple, it’s a marketing strategy that has worked. We see a lot more interaction, with clients engaging with the products and we’ve definitely seen an increase in our retail sales.”
Ainsley Gray, F&M Hairdressing
“When selling without ‘selling’ you need to do one simple thing: listen to your clients. You can gauge through an appointment how a client reacts to the mention of products and this is important. It allows you to gauge the conversation and tailor it to them. Most importantly, focus on being transparent and sharing your knowledge.”
Safy B, Safy B Salon
For more advice on everything from retail to social media, be sure to head to capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/blog
28 29 THE CAPITAL CUT AUTUMN 23 ADVICE
It’s so easy to assume that your clients are savvy when it comes to the right products and treatments for at-home maintenance, but by making that assumption, they could be left feeling confused and you could be missing out on profits. Read on for some top tips that make retail easy.
Schwarzkopf Professional
Schwarzkopf Professional
Schwarzkopf Professional Schwarzkopf Professional Shutterstock
TIME TO PLAY
SPIKE IT
According to Jim Shaw, Director of TONI&GUY Billericay, autumn will be all about going back to school. Basically, spikes are back!
Jim says: “spikes are the perfect choice if clients want something edgy that doesn’t require much work – just great styling products. Hair shouldn’t be too long for this style; I personally love to pair spikes with tapered sides – that way you emphasise the hair and the spikes on the top of the head. A matte pomade is a great product to create this look, as it can be smoothed through the sides of the hair and then distributed through the top section to create the spikes and to add volume and height. You can play around with the product to create the clients’ desired spiky finish, whether they want it to be subtle, graduated or more dramatic.”
EMBRACE IT
Grey is no longer something to be hidden or disguised says Darrel Starkey of Hair by Darrel.
“For me, men’s hair keeps getting cooler and cooler! For this season it’s all about playing with the grey – whether it’s natural or fake – it’s time to embrace this trend. Grey has become so much more fashionable over the last few years and we’re seeing more and more clients opt for the look – it’s become very slick and stylish.
“For anyone who’s not 100% sure about the grey trend, small fringe flashes of blonde will return, a nod back to the ‘90s! This light flash will give the hair a point of difference and also add a little texture.”
SLICK IT
As well as schoolboy spikes making a comeback, you’ll also find yourself reaching for more gel to create some throwback slicked styles. Wet look styles and damp waves have been huge when it comes to womens’ styling, and now the men are playing too. Styling baby hairs with firm gel has long been the domain of women of colour and today this cultural style is seen on the likes of rapper Bad Bunny. There really are no limits now as styling becomes more genderless.
Jim Shaw says that gelled kiss curls are the perfect look for men who like to be a little more adventurous with their hair and want all eyes to be on them.
“Using a gel or wax with a high shine finish is a must for this look,” says Jim. “The product should be combed through with a tail comb to distribute it thoroughly, ensuring the hair is saturated. To create the kiss curls, use the tail end of your comb to remove a small area of hair at one side of the head, add some of your gel or wax to the area and use the tail comb to create the curl, perfecting until you create the desired curl shape and placing the curl so that it lies inwards, towards the face. Repeat on the opposite side of the head if you wish and finish with some hairspray to lock the curls in place.”
BLEACH IT
Bleaching has become such a fun option for men who want to stand out a little, or a lot! Call it the footballer influence if you like, but there’s no denying bleach is big business right now. Lea Shaw of Rural Fringe Hair Salon agrees.
“One hairstyle that’s caught my attention is the bleached-out fade. This look elevates the classic fade by perfectly blending bleach onto the hair. There’s also the opportunity to be even more creative with this look if your client is feeling bold, by adding some colour on top.
“If your client wants a fade but isn’t so keen on bleach or colour, the perfect style for them might be a fade with some piecey texture on top. What’s great about this look is that it works with lots of different hair types and gives clients the chance to show off their natural hair texture,” says Lea.
COLOUR IT
Colour play has never been more popular and is most likely a hangover from the pandemic. But that doesn’t mean men’s colour shows any signs of stopping! Jim Shaw says that when it comes to colour for men this autumn, you can expect to see even more of your male clients experimenting with stand-out shades of green and pink.
“Think neon and candy apple shades of green that really stand out from the crowd, and when it comes to pinks, go for blossom-like shades, a perfect option for blondes who want a touch of colour,” says Jim.
Head to capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk and capitalhairandbeauty.ie to stock up on all of your men’s styling essentials today
30 31 THE CAPITAL CUT AUTUMN 23
Men’s styling has taken a step back in time, and it’s never been more exciting. Check out our expert predictions for this season.
Nick Irwin for Schwarkopf Professional
Nick Irwin for Schwarkopf Professional
Jim Shaw Daniel Fletcher
INTRODUCE A FRIEND TO CAPITAL AND BOTH SHOP
VAT FREE*
#1 Olaplex Lashbond Serum
If you haven’t tried this lash-building treatment yet, where have you been? Packed with peptides and Olaplex’s legendary Bond Building Technology, lashes are plumped up from within. 4.5ml, £32.00/€35.00
#2 Avry Gell Ohh! Jelly Spa Bath in Lavender And Tea Tree & Peppermint
When you want to add value to a pedicure, the scent of this gorgeous, soothing foot soak treatment will instantly transport your clients elsewhere. Choose from relaxing Lavender or calming Tea Tree and Peppermint. 50g, £2.35
#3 TMC Gel Basecoat
An essential for any gel polish manicure, this base coat is selflevelling, ensuring a perfectly smooth finish. 15ml, £9.99/€12.55
#5 Strictly Professional
Eyelash Tint Brown Tube
Lash tinting is the perfect way to add oomph to natural lashes and this tint from Strictly Professional is easy to apply and affordable. 15g, £5.05/€5.75
EDIT THE BEAUTY
Everything you need to prep and prime your clients.
#7 Salon System
Lash Lift Adhesive
Latex Free
Ensure lashes are held in place for the most perfect results with this latex-free adhesive. 5ml, £13.65/€15.15
#9 Skin Republic Hyaluronic Acid & Collagen Sheet Mask
#8 Looks Hot Film Wax Block
This super handy wax can easily be broken into smaller blocks, meaning it’s perfect for application on small areas like top lips, eyebrows and the bikini line – plus it means less waste too. 500g, £6.75/€7.45
#4 Strictly Professional Eyelash Tint Developer
Created to be used with Strictly Professional’s range of eyelash tints, this developer comes with a handy dropper nozzle to ensure hygienic and economical usage. 50ml, £2.80/€3.20
#6 Pro Tan Radically Hemp Bottle
Formulated with Monoi de Tahiti, Aloe Vera and vitamins A and E, this conditioning tan accelerator delivers a long-lasting, deep-toned tan. 250ml, £9.50/€10.85
*Your friend must bring ID & be eligible for a trade card to register with us (i.e. they must be able to prove that they work in the hair or beauty trade, or that they are studying a hair or beauty course) and not already be a trade card holder at Capital. The VAT free voucher will not be valid against purchases of salon furniture and training courses and cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotion, including Privilege Points. It cannot be exchanged for cash. The voucher can only be used once, and is only valid in-store.
Hyaluronic Acid can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, meaning it’s the perfect ingredient to have in your facial treatments. Add to that the plumping effect of naturally-occurring Collagen and your clients are in for a treat. £2.60/€3.15
#10 Kaeso Raspberry Ripple Hand Lotion
Add a scent-sual moment to your post-manicure hand massage and your clients will keep coming back. This raspberry ripple scent is taking us back to ice cream sundaes – yum!
495ml, £7.20/€8.25
32 33
Shop all of this and more over at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk and capitalhairandbeauty.ie! SHOP
WELLA COLOUR BLOCKING
Colour Blocking was born in the 60’s, transcending through fashion and make up and now hair! Wella Professionals introduce their new #WellaColourBlocking Collection, which debuts our 1st premium colour blocking techniques, from subtle to bold, suitable for all clients. Fused with our coolest ever portfolio of shades that offer lasting coolness to the hair, that before now was unachievable.
Our three NEW Cool Brunette Shades of Koleston Perfect grow our portfoilio with a blue-base for ultimate neutralisation of unwanted warm tones. With long lasting cool tones for up to 8 weeks*
*provided hair is washed 3x/week, instrumental testing.
CHUNKY HIGHLIGHTS
Effective and premium way to add contrast and upgrade a classic highlight with an on trend technicque.
CONTRAST BLOCKING
Add a playful contrast to your on trend clients. A high frequency service to promote top up tones.
COLOUR FORMULA
Lightening:
BlondorPlex Bleach + 6% Welloxon
Toning: 5g KP 0/28 + 5g KP 0/30 + 5g KP 0/00 + 30g 1.9% Welloxon
Glossing: 30g KP 5/82 + 30g Post Colour Service + 30g 1.9% Welloxon
HOW TO ACHIEVE THE LOOK!
1. Lightening
Lighten a big diamond section, taking back to back slices leaving the root area natural. On the widest area of the diamond leave some natural hair between the sections for more balanced look. Rinse and remove, apply WellaPlex N⁰2 throughout the hair, develop for 10 min. Shampoo using Fusion.
BlondorPlex Bleach + 6%
Root Tap & Neutralisation: 30g KP 5/82 + 30g KP 6/91 +
JAMES
EARNSHAW
8.97 + 5g 0/65 + 90g
1.9% Welloxon
“Colour Blocking means to me so many different things! Could be working with a really bold colour placement on a tonal pastel creative palette, or also could be in a salon creating beautiful premium colour that suits the client you are working on.”
2. Tone
Tone lightened areas to create an ocean teal tonality.
3. Gloss
Gloss the dark areas of the hair to deepen the base for maximum contrast and shine.
35 AUTUMN 23
Wella Professionals Digital Ambassador UK&I @jhair_stylist
Gloss & Tone Rose 30g KP 8/96 + 10g KP
The reparative blow-dry mist for lasting body and bounce that protects hair for soft, shiny, and visibly healthy blowouts.
Key benefits:
l Repairs & protects
l Faster, healthier-looking blowouts
l Lasting body & bounce
l Touchably soft, shiny hair
EVERYTHING FOR THE Professional
EVERYTHING FOR THE Professional
since 1954
TRADE ONLY…
TRADE ONLY…
You won’t find your customers shopping here
PRICE MATCH GUARANTEE…
You won’t find your customers shopping here PRICE MATCH GUARANTEE…
We will guarantee to match any locally advertised price
We will guarantee to match any locally advertised price
HUGE RANGE OF STOCK…
HUGE RANGE OF STOCK…
We have what you want, when you want it
94% saw buildable volume 93% felt lightweight body 89% agreed hair did not feel sticky*
We have what you want, when you want it
LOYALTY SCHEME…
LOYALTY SCHEME…
One of the most generous schemes you’ll find anywhere!
One of the most generous schemes you’ll find anywhere!
Disclaimer *Based on an independent consumer perception study of 43 women with fine to medium hair who use blow dry products. /48 ENGLAND Aldershot 01252 325609 Ashford 01233 501400 Bournemouth 01202 763442 Brierley Hill 01384 483338 Brighton 01273 900111 Bristol 0117 951 2222 Carlisle 01228 544134 Crawley 01293 550052 Croydon 0208 681 3815 Dagenham 0208 593 1883 Eastbourne 01323 508040 Gillingham 01634 365005 Harrow 0208 863 7371 Hayes 0208 573 3941 Hoddesdon 01992 440866 Hove (Local) 01273 327215 Ipswich 01473 253313 Kingston 0208 549 9058 Lee 0208 318 9421 Norwich 01603 630747 Oxford 01865 775223 Peterborough 01733 561193 Portsmouth 023 9266 0400 Southampton 023 8055 3380 Tunbridge Wells 01892 526333 Walsall 01922 616111 Wolverhampton 01902 351515 Worthing (Local) 01903 507304 SCOTLAND Aberdeen 01224 620430 East Kilbride 01355 232224 Edinburgh 0131 453 4300 Glasgow 0141 552 4505 Glasgow Hillington 0141 883 8876 NORTHERN IRELAND Derry 02871 371222 REP. OF IRELAND Limerick 061 294580 Dublin Nangor Rd 01 4089022 Dublin Croke Park 01 8369761 POMPADOUR Derby 01332 342228 Mansfield 01623 654736 Lincoln 01522 512250 Nottingham 0115 978 9115 For opening hours & store locations visit our website today! WWW.CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUTY.CO.UK STORE
CAPITAL STORE FINDER since 1954
CONTACTS
IBIZA HAIR /48 ENGLAND Aldershot 01252 325609 Ashford 01233 501400 Bournemouth 01202 763442 Brierley Hill 01384 483338 Brighton 01273 900111 Bristol 0117 951 2222 Carlisle 01228 544134 Crawley 01293 550052 Croydon 0208 681 3815 Dagenham 0208 593 1883 Eastbourne 01323 508040 Gillingham 01634 365005 Harrow 0208 863 7371 Hayes 0208 573 3941 Hoddesdon 01992 440866 Hove (Local) 01273 327215 Ipswich 01473 253313 Kingston 0208 549 9058 Lee 0208 318 9421 Norwich 01603 630747 Oxford 01865 775223 Peterborough 01733 561193 Portsmouth 023 9266 0400 Southampton 023 8055 3380 Tunbridge Wells 01892 526333 Walsall 01922 616111 Wolverhampton 01902 351515 Worthing (Local) 01903 507304 SCOTLAND Aberdeen 01224 620430 East Kilbride 01355 232224 Edinburgh 0131 453 4300 Glasgow 0141 552 4505 Glasgow Hillington 0141 883 8876 NORTHERN IRELAND Derry 02871 371222 REP. OF IRELAND Limerick 061 294580 Dublin Nangor Rd 01 4089022 Dublin Croke Park 01 8369761 POMPADOUR Derby 01332 342228 Mansfield 01623 654736 Lincoln 01522 512250 Nottingham 0115 978 9115 For opening hours & store locations visit our website today! WWW.CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUTY.CO.UK
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