THE TRENDS, THE INSPO, THE PRODUCTS
FEELING REFRESHED! CHECK OUT ALL THE HAIR AND BEAUTY TRENDS FOR 2023 GET REAL – FUTURE PROOF YOUR BUSINESS
Spring 23
Free for all Capital Hair & Beauty customers
EDITOR’S LETTER
Welcome to the first issue of the Capital Cut of 2023!
We’re beyond excited to kick off this new year with an issue packed full of colour and inspiration. From page 14 we’ve got four pages of the ultimate nail trends and techniques, and on page 18 we’re diving into the Future of Beauty. Over on page 20 we’re all about colour trends and we’re also sharing some social media hacks on page 22.
Finally, whether you’re a freelance Capital client or a salon owner, we know starting a new year comes with excitement and often a little stress too; be sure to read our tips on supporting your mental health on page 28 and take care of yourself. Don’t forget, there’s a whole community of fellow hair and beauty pros over on our social platforms, so check us out on Instagram and Twitter @capitalhair and @capitalhairireland and find us on Facebook at facebook.com/capitalhairandbeauty.
We can’t wait to see you at your local Capital store!
Samantha Burkwood
We had to have this stunning, colourful work from the Schwarzkopf Professional Inspire Team on the cover for the first issue of 2023!
Photographer: Arved Colvin-Smith
Hair: The Schwarzkopf Professional Inspire Team
Makeup: Maddie Austin
Styling: Clare Frith
2 3 THE CAPITAL CUT
CONTENTS 05 TRIED AND TESTED What’s new in store? 06 WEEK IN MY SHOES Meet Robert Kirby, the salon owner with attention to detail 09 HAIR TREND UPDATE New shapes for 2023 INSIDE 24 GET REAL Smart savings to battle inflation 28 PUT YOURSELF FIRST Mental health tips to get you through 33 THE BEAUTY EDIT New beauty must-haves
10 ALL ABOUT THE BROWS Bleached or sculpted, brows are big business 12 NAILS SPECIAL From Barbiecore to ‘clean girl’ 18 THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY How to use tech for a more personal touch 20 NEW COLOUR MOMENT The most beautiful Spring tones 22 TIME TO PLAY Social media goes back to basics Marketing Manager
ON THE COVER
Robert Kirby
Karoliina Saunders
JOIN OUR
A UNIQUE CONCEPT
Color is like a tailor-made garment: it enhances each one’s personal beauty and makes people feel gorgeous and unique. Like an expert tailor, the stylist creates the perfect color for everyone, mixing shades and color techniques in a truly customized way.
GROW YOUR COLOR BUSINESS
Get inspired by a holistic color system that gives you boundless possibilities. From high-performance permanent color to gentle tonings, you get everything you need to offer your client a truly customized color service.
Goldwell’s Color Atelier programme offers a wide-range of services and education to give you the artist the space needed to create and grow your business.
Update your kit with these new essentials
Get into it
Curls are predicted to be bigger than ever this year, which is why you need to stock up on Color Wow Curl Wow Shook Curl Perfector right now Nobody wants crunchy hair and this ‘shake to activate’ weightless spray has been receiving rave reviews for leaving curls soft, touchable and defined.
£16.25
The forecast looks good
We love how these Framar Mercury in Retrograde Pop-Up Foil Sheets poke fun at the astrological happening that always seems to make things go wrong! Thankfully you’ll only see the positives in these time-saving precut and pre-folded foils. £18.90
When only smooth will do
Sometimes a product comes along that does everything it promises and more. Color Wow Dreamcoat Anti-Frizz Treatment is that product. Nothing else delivers like this shine-enhancing, humidity fighting, ground-breaking and economical spray. £13.50
Essential
GET YOUR HANDS ON FREE EDUCATION…
GOLDWELL EDUCATION PLUS APP
Total product knowledge and salon services.
Interactive digital color cards and formulation guides. Create and mix your individual recipes.
Super clean
Healthy hair starts with a healthy scalp, and the Olaplex No. 4D Clean Volume Detox
Dry Shampoo ensures that the scalp is cleaned and cared for in between washes. Rice starch absorbs excess oil while skin-friendly actives keep the scalp calm and soothed. £15.50/€17.70
Always in style
When you need a brush that does it all, look no further than the Denman D94L Tangle Tamer All-Star. We love this brush because it’s brilliant for heat styling –thanks to its heat resistant pins – and it’s perfect for both wet and dry detangling. £12.50/€14.25
Soft and gentle
It’s that time of year when your facial clients might need something that’s a little more gentle when it comes to cleansing.
Sometimes only a glossy, shiny finish will do, which is why we love The Manicure Company’s No-Wipe Top Coat . Just apply, cure and enjoy the mirror-like finish. It’s that simple!
£9.99/€12.55
GOLDWELL EDUCATION PLUS YOUTUBE CHANNEL
Fuel your creativity. The go-to destination for any inspiration and information about upcoming trends. youtube.com/goldwelleducationplus
#COLORATELIER #GOGOLDWELL Follow @goldwelluki
Stay hydrated
Hydration is key for any time of year, but sometimes you just need that little extra. Treat your clients to Monuskin’s Moisture Rich Collagen Cream and you’ll definitely have them rebooking in. Enriched with natural nourishing ingredients like Blackcurrant Seed Oil, Evening Primrose Oil and Shea Butter, this cream is all about boosting the skin and protecting the skin barrier, whatever the weather. £29.95
Buy everything you see here online at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk and capitalhairandbeauty.ie
Enter Pharmagel’s Hydra Cleanse, a mild cleanser formulated with softening Oat Extract and Panthenol. With Aloe Vera to nourish, this cleanser is pH balanced and ideal for all skin types.
£12.00/€13.95
A good footing
You know what they say: Summer feet start in Spring. Well, something like that! This Callus Peel Starter Kit is essential for your clients who already have their holidays in mind. A 15-minute, 4-step treatment, feet are left soft and silky smooth thanks to an innovative blend of ingredients. £45.50/€63.00
5
TOP PICKS
AND
TESTED TRIED
IN MY A WEEK SHOES
Monday
I have two salons; my original salon in Balham and one in Wimbledon that we opened three years ago. The salons close on a Monday but there are always things that need to be done. I have two dogs so Monday is always a day for long walks. I find it’s great for my mental health and it gives myself and my business partner and husband time to talk, away from the business and pressures and gives us an opportunity to talk about our goals and plans. Today I also had a meeting with id Hair Denmark; I’m the International Creative Educator, so we booked some education dates for me to go over to Denmark and started planning some shoots too.
Tuesday
I started the day with a big meeting with a chemist on a new exciting product I’m working on. It’s always been a dream so to start working on it is both nerve-wracking and exciting. We’re a long way off yet but plans are now in place and we will share more as soon as we can. I then headed to the Balham salon where I was fully booked with clients all afternoon.
Wednesday
been a client for a long time. A lot of my clients who have been coming to see me for years have become real friends, so appointments are often filled with laughter and lovely conversation. It’s a busy day in the salon and I have a mixture of clients who want something wearable and commercial as well as those who want something a bit more creative. It’s a great mix and always gives me lots of ideas to take into the studio for shoots. Photography is one of my passions so I love playing with hair, lighting and angles.
Friday
Friday is my day at the Wimbledon salon and it’s always a busy day. As well as seeing clients it’s an opportunity to catch up with the team, listen to any concerns or ideas they might have and check the business is running well. There’s nothing better than watching your team thrive.
Robert’s Advice
“My tip is to always believe in yourself, even when you’re having a bad day. Surround yourself with creative people. When you get knocked down get back up. Always be a sponge – no matter how long you have been in the industry – continue to learn and always remember why you went into hairdressing in the first place.”
This morning I had a meeting with designer Elisa Heinesen on a new collaboration we’re doing. I love collaborations for sparking creativity. Then I headed to the salon for a team meeting – team members range from newbies to those who have been in the industry a long time, and getting everyone together is a great way to learn from each other. There’s always a creative vibe and I come away feeling really positive for the year ahead.
Thursday
My first client is friend Rosie Nixon, editor of Hello! magazine who has
Saturday
I’m fully booked today and it’s a very mixed clientele, so my day is full of hearing all the gossip from clients – their life stories and what their families are up to. This is just one reason I still love working in the salon after all these years.
6 7 THE CAPITAL CUT SPRING 23
Location Balham and Wimbledon, London Years in business 30+ Social @robertkirbylondon
ADVICE All imagery supplied
With over 30 years in the hair business, London-based salon owner Robert Kirby is just as passionate about client care today as he was back then. Read on to see what a busy week is like when you’re the owner of two salons and working on something very special…
Explode Your Colour Potential With...
Give yourself a POP of colour with KP!
Explore the possiblities of colour with Koleston Perfect: vibrant reds, hot pinks, rich teals and deep blues.
Revivify your blondes with Illuminage!
VERSATILE STYLES FOR 2023
Style trends for Spring are all about making it wearable – even if it’s inspired by classic shapes or something entirely new, it’s all about bespoke shapes that allow for versatile styling.
“For cuts we’re seeing more inspiration when it comes to bangs and butterfly cuts, so lots of feathery layers around the face, as well as shorter bobs. The long bobs we saw in 2022 have grown out and can be worn in a more messy, ‘undone’ style.”
Cally Borg @callyborghair
MAKE IT WEARABLE
“The move towards hair that’s more manageable is growing and makes sense given the demands on peoples’ time and energy! The bob was huge in 2022, but this year it’s coming in at a different length. Now it’s closer to the collar bone, a perfect length for hair of all textures – and a great, flattering shape too.”
Giuseppe Manco
BACK TO THE BOB
“With the popularity of the boyfriend bob – a blunt, undone cut – I think we’re going to see a lot more clients opting for a chop and it’s no surprise that a jawskimming bob will be in high demand; it’s a timeless classic and totally chic.”
Emma Simmons, Salon 54
naturally blended highs and lows with a luminous result.
“I think we’re going to see a lot of sharp bobs, worn a lot straighter or with minimal texture or movement. I also think short hair will make a return as people are able to be a bit more daring leading up to warmer months and a shorter look means less styling time. Hair ups and red carpet glam will become more daring too – we’ll see
lots of structured, wet-look, sleek styles on our favourite A-listers which means it will then go mainstream.”
Luke Benson @lukebensonhair
SOMETHING NEW!
“The BIXIE is on its way! We’ve already seen hints of this textured take on this hybrid style that’s half grown-out pixie crop, half bob and in 2023 we’ll see it worn with easy styling. It’s the perfect option for clients wanting a feminine yet short look without being too drastic.”
Emma Simmons, Salon 54
8 9 THE CAPITAL CUT SPRING 23
Andrew Smith
Karoliina Saunders
Andrew Smith for Milkshake
Ceri Cushen
Andrew Smith Schwarzkopf Professionals
details & accentuates
within the hair, framing the face and enhancing the perimeter. Illumina Color creates
Illuminage
areas
Get the Look: a) 30g Blondorplex + 45ml Welloxon 6% b) KP 30g 10/95 + 2g 0/65 + 64ml Welloxon 1.9% c) KP 30g 10/96 + 1g 0/88 + 62ml Welloxon 1.9% d) KP 20g 10/95 + 5g 10/03 + 8g 0/65 + 66ml Welloxon 1.9% Get the Look: a) 30g Blondorplex + 45ml Welloxon 4% b) ILLUMINA 20g 7/ + 20g 7/81 + 80g Welloxon 1.9% c) SHINEFINITY 40g 07/75 + 20g 09/36 + 60g Shinefinity bottle developer
BROW PREDICTIONS FOR SPRING 2023
TRAIN WITH CAPITAL AND LEARN SOMETHING NEW FOR 2023
Salon System Brow Lamination & Tint Course is the perfect way to ensure you can provide brow trends fresh from the catwalk for your trend-conscious clients. In this blended course of online and practical you will learn three key signature brow looks – Classic, Fluffy & Feathered and Brushed .
Timings: In-store practical 10am-2pm
More info: If you are unable to try the treatment yourself you will need to bring in a model for the practical portion of this course. You must also ensure that you patch test yourself or your model before attending the practical session.
Cost: £145+VAT
If you want to add another skill to your services, why not book in for our combined Brow Lamination, Lash Lift and Tinting Masterclass? Visit capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/ training/eyebrow-eyelash-courses/brow-lamination-lashlift-and-tinting-masterclass to find out more
Marvelbrow is a course that’s all about using a scientific approach for a natural finish. During this blended course you will learn how to sculpt, define, lengthen and thicken brows for a more youthful, groomed appearance. Consisting of three hours of online learning and four hours in-store practical, this is a brilliant course for beginners or anyone wishing to refresh their brow skills.
The trend: Bleached no-eyebrow look
Pinterest searches for bleached eyebrows are up 246%, which means, even if you’re not personally into bleached brows, your clients could be!
Heavily influenced by rave culture –which is coming back again for 2023 by the way – bleached brows have become a regular go-to rather than the unusual, impactful look usually reserved for the bold at heart. The reason they’ve become so popular is that, by almost erasing the brows, you’re able to change your face shape and really play with dramatic eye makeup. The no-eyebrow look means the face looks brighter and eyes look bigger.
How to make it more wearable: Not everyone will come to you wanting bleached blonde brows; in fact one of the prettier spin-offs from this look is a coppery or light brown brow that almost blends into glossy, healthy-looking skin. Put simply, any shade that’s lighter than your clients’ original brow colour will have a brightening effect – they don’t need to go for platinum!
The trend: Thick, feathery brows
Even though social media’s having a love affair with skinny ‘90s eyebrows right now, brow lamination isn’t going anywhere this Spring! It’s still going to be huge and is enjoying popularity with celebrities such as singer Dua Lipa and Euphoria actress Zendaya. The great thing about brow lamination is that it makes the most of what your client has already.
How to make the most of it: Brow lamination usually lasts around 4-6 weeks but with care they can last up to 8 weeks. Be sure to check out our Brow Lamination course opposite to find out more.
Naturally lush
Natural brows are back – but we don’t mean brows that are unkempt. Natural brows for Spring means brows that are groomed with any sparse areas filled in with a fine, sharpened pencil or, for an even more natural look, a brow powder. Whether you use powder or pencil, the key to a natural finish is to brush the colour into the brows with a clean spoolie with an upward motion for a soft blend.
Timings: In-store practical 10am-2pm
More info: If you don’t wish to try the treatment on yourself you will need to bring in a model for the practical portion of this course. You must also ensure that you patch test yourself or your model before attending the practical session.
Cost: £145+VAT
Want more brow inspiration? Then head to our blogs over at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk and capitalhairandbeauty.ie
Learn with Glitterbels
We’re so excited to share a brand new range of courses with Glitterbels, a unique brand of acrylics, gels and innovative tools and accessories.
Glitterbels Gel Design Course
Ruth Aktins, Lash & Brow Expert and Salon System Educator shares her predictions for 2023
In 2023 I see brow technicians laminating within precise borders, keeping a well-groomed brow super streamlined and neatly placed by micro-lining and mapping during the treatment. This, alongside a precise brow tint with maximum skin stainage means a full, filled-in powder brow can be achieved but it will have a neater look – thinner than the looks we saw in 2022, but not 80’s thin!
Tinting the skin when doing a brow tint application is going to be big this year. It’s ideal for time poor clients who are after longer lasting results and gives them a semi-permanent makeup look without the use of needles. We’ll see new tinting treatments and techniques being introduced in 2023 to achieve a 2-week ‘wake-up make-up’ treatment that everyone will love.
Custom colour tinted brows will blow up for Spring. No longer do brows need to be 50 shades of brown! Instead, we’ll see red, chestnut and graphite for extra warmth or coolness. The brow techs of 2023 should invest in tinting ranges with a good colour palette, like the RefectoCil range - and offer ‘brow treatments’ rather than just a brow tint.
I also think we’ll see clients wanting to play more with an embellished brow, so think glitters, sequins, embossed crystals – all of which can easily be applied with a strip lash glue.
up to the minute nail trends to look out for in 2023, and with this new acrylics course from Glitterbels you’ll find out exactly how to recreate them.
£79 + VAT
Glitterbels Acrylic Refresher Course
Natural and groomed is a key trend for
Make it easier: for clients who want this natural look but want to save a little time in the mornings, a brow tint is the quickest way to get a touch of colour on their brows. Learn more with our Marvelbrow course, detailed opposite.
Learn how to create the signature Glitterbels nail art that brings gel polish colours to life and leave clients coming back for more! Our awardwinning trainers will take you through every step, from inspiration to the final design. £79 + VAT
Glitterbels Acrylic Design Course
Over on page 14 we’re sharing the most
Learn how to create the signature Glitterbels nails that are sweeping the UK and social media platforms. Create a loyal following of fans and customers with our award-winning trainers who will take you through every step of the application and in-depth knowledge of the brand and products. This course teaches every aspect of how the product is used to its full potential.
£79 + VAT
10 11 THE CAPITAL CUT SPRING 23 TRAINING
Brow and lash services are bigger than ever as more and more women use them to express their individuality, whether through bleached or feathered brows. Read on for the hottest 2023 trends and the training courses we recommend to nail them.
Thick
are still in! Instagram/@dualipa Super
Barely-there brows are more than a catwalk trend Instagram/@beasweetbeauty
and luscious brows
light brows open up the face Instagram/@beasweetbeauty
Instagram/@katiejanehughes Salon System
2023
PICK ME UP!
Nails have always had that ability to improve how your clients feel, but this Spring they’re really in for treat, as Barbie-core, ‘clean girl’ nails and florals take over!
POWERFUL. PROFESSIONAL. PERFORMANCE.
Dopamine nails
In 2022 we had TikTok trend-setters talking about dopamine dressing; essentially using colourful clothing to improve your mood, and it makes sense for the trend to carry over to our nails.
It’s a trend that Dani Bailey is really excited to play with. She says: “it’s all about having fun and I’m game for anything that makes people truly happy! I love that it’s called the ‘dopamine mani’.”
Powered by advanced lithium technology for ultimate cordless cutting performance. Our heavy-duty Super Motor range of professional grooming tools feature ultra-sharp Japanese Steel blades and a high-torque brushless motor for smooth precision cutting, outlining and detailing. And the Titanium Foil Shaver gives exceptional fading and blending.
12 THE CAPITAL CUT SPRING 23
OPI OPI
Freya Murphy
Another way to interpret the dopamine trend is to introduce colour via floral designs. For The Manicure Company ambassador Freya Murphy, Spring is all about flowers.
“My favourite trend is little dainty flowers – they’re so easy to create yet so effective! I’m also a big fan of adding a colourful French tip to the floral nail look. I like to use a variety of vibrant and pastel colours and right now I adore an almond-shaped nail. They’re so pretty and elegant, perfect for Spring!”
PRETTY SPRING FLORALS STEP BY STEP
Award-winning nail tech and educator Kelly-Marie Daly shares her steps to creating this gorgeous floral nail art using bright pastels from The Manicure Company.
First, using The Manicure Company ballerina-shaped pink tone tips, I applied Gel Polish Colour in Blush Baby to the tip.
Then, using Gel Polish Colour in Saffron I created a deeper section, curing at each stage to ensure the sections don’t mix together. Next using Gel Polish Colour in True White, I drew an outline of the petals, using a brush liner from The Manicure Company, using more pressure in areas to create a thicker line.
I added some finer detail using a dotting tool and continued to cure as I went, before adding some Goddess glitter in sections to highlight the design and adding a top coat.
I then used Gel Polish Colour in Cotton Candy, Periwinkle Portrait and Monsoon for a blue version of the design, and Gel Polish Colour in Misty Hills, Idol and Tropical for the green version. You can literally recreate this look in any colour-way you like, even the new Pantone Viva Magenta!
Spring forecast
Dani Bailey, #OPIBoss says there’s a natural theme running throughout the season.
“Moodboard app Pinterest recently released its trends for 2023, and they’re predicting lots of minimal styles. We’ve got the ‘your nails but better’ look, which is basically the social media ‘clean girl aesthetic’ – all about healthy-looking nails. We’ll still see the French manicure, but we’ll be swapping out the white for bold colour,” says Dani.
Metta Francis agrees – the clean girl is going to be big for Spring.
“We’ve been seeing manicures move in this direction for a while now, with the more natural-looking French manicure – short nails, more of a milky white tone. But the clean girl look, or, what I like to call ‘your nails, but better’ is all about looking after, celebrating and enhancing the natural nails.
“It’s not just about the nail polish or gel polish shade; we’ll see more attention focused on nail and cuticle oils, hand serums and rich, science-led – or conversely, more natural and organic – moisturisers and balms. As for nail coatings, it’s all about smoothing base coats, super clear and high gloss nails or natural semi sheer shades. Think of them like your makeup primers, illuminators and BB creams, but for nails,” says Metta.
Julie-Anne Larivière, of JA Nails and Salon System Nail Expert agrees that Spring trends will be super subtle. “I believe a lot of clients will want to have short, neat, manicured nails or longer oval/almond-shaped nails. Colour-wise we’ll be seeing delicate milky shades as well as olive greens and reds. Chrome nails will also still be much requested!” says Julie-Anne.
14 15 THE CAPITAL CUT SPRING 23
OPI
Freya Murphy
Dani Bailey
Metta Francis
Metta Francis
Metta Francis
Dani Bailey
Kelly-Marie Daly
Barbie-core
For award-winning nail tech Metta Francis, Spring will be all about the Barbie movie.
“I know the highly anticipated pop culture film is going to heavily influence nail trends. We should expect to see lots of pink - baby pink, hot pink, neon pink on nails, coupled with lots of fun nail art inspired by the fashion and prints found in the movie. Pink gingham, pink mosaic, bright neon, block colours, sequin or bling-inspired looks – and that’s just from seeing the trailer! I’m super excited for this film and really think it’s going to inspire some amazing creations. The great thing about Barbie-core is that long, almond-shaped nails and even shorter nails can rock this trend,” says Metta.
Shop all your nail essentials at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk or capitalhairandbeauty.ie today!
16 THE CAPITAL CUT SPRING 23
Metta Francis
OPI
Metta Francis
Dani Bailey
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
While much of the world has finally decided that things are back to normal, normal has changed. Throughout the pandemic your clients learned more about their own hair, skin and nails – from ingredients to trends and even techniques. But now they’re back and in need of your expert help more than ever before. Read on to find out what they’re expecting from you in 2023.
GET TO KNOW YOUR CLIENTS
While your clients have had a ton of fun doing their own nails, their own bleach jobs and focusing on facials during the pandemic, they’ve also learned so much more about hair and beauty than they knew before. Throughout these challenging times, Google searches such as ‘how to cut men’s hair’ and ‘how to bleach hair’ grew by 600% and 112% respectively and over on TikTok, ‘brow lamination’ received over 1.3billion views! So of course it makes sense that today your clients know a lot more than they used to.
Now that they’re booking in again, let them know that you want to know as
much about them as possible. Perhaps create a questionnaire, either online or in person and find out what they missed the most about losing out on your professional service, and ask them how they’re planning on changing their look this year. This way you get to reset the working relationship and gain information that will help you provide the best service possible that’s in keeping with exactly what your client wants. Add a personal touch by say, offering a birthday discount via email –it’s these little personalised details that will keep your clients loyal and happy.
KNOW YOUR PRODUCT INSIDE OUT
As a creative professional, you’ll no doubt know what it means to be in the flow when you’re doing someone’s hair, a facial or their nails, but don’t forget to keep your clients informed. Let them know exactly what you’re doing, why you’re using the products you’re using – not only is it about information, it could also be a retail opportunity for you. Most importantly, be sure to keep yourself informed. Even the best and most brilliant in the hair and beauty biz will tell you it’s vital that you never stop learning. Be sure to book in regularly for training either in new innovations in services you already provide, or add to your skillset by learning something completely new. Staying informed means staying fresh and relevant to your existing and future clientele. If you’re not sure where to start, head to capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/training today for a full list of all our hair and beauty courses.
OFFER MORE
Pre-pandemic, you were likely really happy and satisfied in your work; you knew exactly how many clients you had month to month, and could work out your cashflow in advance. But today it’s vital that you consider the services you offer and think about how you can offer more. It’s all about giving the ultimate experience, even the most speedy of blowdries or basic nail art service can benefit from a little attention to
detail – from a scented towel to a relaxing hand massage, and it’s not necessarily about spending more. Focus on creating an experience that leaves your clients feeling good and they’ll see a booking with you as a treat to look forward to. Again this is highly motivated by the trying times we’ve all experienced; your clients are far more aware of the importance of their physical wellbeing and mental health and will be looking for experiences that prioritise this.
GET DIGITAL AND PHYGITAL
It’s no longer an option to hide behind outdated forms of communication and booking – if you haven’t gone digital you are likely missing out on new clients and could soon lose existing ones. Millenials and Gen Z feel more comfortable booking online and they definitely won’t consider picking up the phone to actually call you with a booking! Ensure you do your research to find a digitalised booking service that works for you and your clients; from Fresha to Shortcuts, there’s a solution for the freelancer and the salon owner, with some even offering selfcheck-in features!
Also, start learning more about customised beauty and ‘phygital’ experiences – physical and digital experiences that use the best technology that the Metaverse can offer and combine it with the ultimate hands-on experience. This is not the time to feel intimidated by technology; it could be the key to your future success.
18 19 THE CAPITAL CUT SPRING 23 BEAUTY
Shutterstock Shutterstock Shutterstock
THE COLOUR OF
THE MOMENT!
Spring 2023 colour is bold, vibrant and very, very Pantone-inspired! Read on for colour predictions from the best in the business.
Why Pantone’s new Colour of the Year ticks all the boxes…
There’s something so positive about the colour pink, which explains why a rich, bold version of the shade has been named as Pantone’s Colour of the Year. Magenta is a shade that’s comprised of two complementary colours, blue and red and the Pantone version, Viva Magenta, is inspiring everyone from nail techs to makeup artists and of course, hair colourists.
Romantic shades
For Melissa Timperley, 2023 is all about dusty rose gold.
For Seung Ki Baek, Rush Artistic Team Member, it’s a move into the future.
“We have well and truly stepped into the ‘Magentaverse’ with this year’s Pantone colour. This gorgeous, berry-like, rich shade will allow us as colourists to really experiment as it’s a shade that can be worn at both ends of the spectrum, from super dark hair to lighter tones –and will of course be even more vibrant on those who already have their hair lightened. I think this shade would look particularly great on those with shorter hair, being panelled through the hair for a high fashion finish.”
Andrew Smith, of Andrew Smith Salons says he can’t wait to play with Viva Magenta.
“I think it’s very commercial and with the tone being a beautiful blend of warm and cool, I think it could suit just
about anyone.”
Brian Leo McCallum, of ROAR Hair says he’s already planning exactly how he wants to play with the new Pantone shade.
“We’re going to be utilising our @Pure Pigments in Cool Pink by Goldwell at ROAR. These amazing drops can be used to customise any colour towards the Viva Magenta colour palette. Whether it’s subtle hints of pink through a deep brunette or pastel hues on blondes looking to play with the magenta shade or a guest fully embracing the Viva Magenta metaverse, we’re able to customise their ideal colour mix.”
Barbie-core takeover
“This is a toned-down update of the huge copper trend we saw in 2022. What’s so great about this colour is that it can be as punchy or as subtle as you like and works on all skin tones. For cool skin toned clients, I’d opt for more pink and if they’re more of a warm skin tone, play with peach. This also works on darker-based balayage as well as over bleach blonde –and it fades really prettily too!” says Melissa.
For Rush Artistic Team member Seung Ki Baek, red is going to be another key trend for Spring.
“Think everything from coppers to strawberry blondes, brunettes with a pop of cherry red and even peachy rose gold tones! All of these gorgeous shades are great for adding warmth to the complexion and for adding a beautiful shine to the hair. I think we’ll also see some really pretty pearlescent tones, like Oyster Grey. Think of the inside of an oyster shell and how it glimmers with shimmering silver tones. It’s an incredibly versatile shade too and suits all ages.”
If you still haven’t had enough pink, there’s more to come, as Barbie-core is absolutely about to take over. July 2023 sees the release of the long-awaited live action Barbie movie, and you can assume that everything will be pink until that point. We’re talking bold pink, bubblegum pink – all season long!
November Collective’s Christopher Laird can’t wait for the pop culture icon’s takeover!
“I think we’ll see some clients being really brave with their colour choices, including pops of pink thanks to the Barbie movie. Having said that, copper will still be big and I predict that some clients will want to make their money go a little further by opting for more natural tones that aren’t so high maintenance,” says Christopher.
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COLOUR
Schwarzkopf Inspire Roccabella
Andrew Smith
Schwarzkopf Professionals
Schwarzkopf Inspire
Roccabella
Safy B
Roccabella Schwarzkopf Inspire
Shelley Lane
Shelley Lane
Andrew Smith
Robert Kirby
Safy B
Emma Simmons Shutterstock
TIME TO PLAY
For 2023 social media is going back to the roots of community, experimentation and having fun. Now is the perfect time to set up a social media account – if you haven’t already – because online communities no longer want to hear from influencers – they want to hear from you, the experts. Read on to find out how some of our faves do their socials.
BE AUTHENTIC
Jaz Moger, Salon System
Nail Expert and owner of Paint by Jaz says authenticity is the name of the game when it comes to building a social following.
“Be authentic and true to yourself by posting content that you truly love – as well as showing your personality; it’s a great way to feel connected to your audience.
“Secondly, I would focus on being consistent but make sure it’s quality over quantity. I think your audience knows when something has been rushed out. Instead focus on regularly posting and be sure to use all of the features that each platform has – for instance, Instagram has photo and video content, Reels, Stories and you can also go Live if you feel brave enough!
On TikTok things are more relaxed and once you have a certain number of followers you can monetise your content and go Live.
“I think it’s really important to set up a TikTok account as Instagram has become pretty oversaturated.
TikTok is great because it’s video focused and it’s where most of the trends are starting now,” says Jaz. @paintbyjaz
LOOK AT THE NUMBERS
If you’re already established on social media, it’s a good idea to check in with your analytics, or ‘insights’ as they’re often called on Instagram, and see what’s working for you.
November Collective’s Christopher Laird says: “Look at your analytics and see what performs well and use this to work out which types of content your audience wants to see from you. For me, advice-based content performs really well. That can be anything from a video where I’m showcasing a curling technique using a ghd styler that my clients can then try themselves at home, to a more technically detailed Reel aimed at the hairdressers that follow my page. It’s all about tailoring the content to your audience for maximum engagement.”
@hairbyChristopherLaird
START SMALL
We know it can feel like a lot when we’re telling you to start multiple social media accounts on top of everything you do as a freelancer or salon owner, but you can make it do-able by starting small. Awardwinning nail tech Metta Francis agrees.
“Are you passionate about a particular area or do you have a particular strength? Focus on that! It could simply be a video or a time lapse of you creating an amazing set of nail art or a video of a final nail look.
If you’re not yet comfortable being on camera, you can use the voiceover and caption function to explain to the viewer the benefits of your treatments, how to recreate the look etc, and if you’re not sure what content to film, ask your audience!,” says Metta.
@nailsbymetta
Looking for more social media advice? Head to our blog section at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk and capitalhairandbeauty.ie today
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LET’S GET
REAL
ADVICE FROM A SALON OWNER…
For Tina Hollis, AKA The Lonely Boss Lady, she says it’s vital to get everything down on paper first – it’s not about reacting and then backtracking later.
“Before I do a price increase I look at my breakeven, and my cost per service. From there I can work out my profit margins and decide where I need to focus my increases; for example if my colour costs have risen I look at my profit margin for this service, if it’s reduced by a lot I’ll pass the increase on but if it’s minimal I’d look at how I can save, so I’d weigh out my products to ensure I’m not over using them and I’d mix up less to start with, therefore allowing me to mix up more if and when needed. It’s not about scrimping on my service but I’m ensuring each client gets their colour on point and that prices aren’t getting out of control for them simply by me wasting product!”
Another useful idea, says Tina, is to consider offering a ‘while you wait’ service – for instance, if a client is having a colour done, why not encourage them to get their nails done while they wait, and enjoy a 15% discount off the price?
With much of the news focused on the state of the economy, it’s important to get real with your expenditure and your offerings. There’s never been a better time to examine your business and it doesn’t have to be all doom and gloom if you check out our expert tips.
SWAP AND SAVE
For award-winning nail tech Metta Francis, now is the perfect time to swap in sustainable options and save money.
“Switching to high quality biodegradable towels can help both the environment and your bottom line. In the long run you save money on energy and electricity from having to wash and tumble dry towels regularly. Salons often note hundreds in pounds worth of savings by using these towels and it’s something I’ve recently adopted. Many of the biodegradable options are excellent quality so your clients either won’t notice or will comment on how great they are. They’ll also love that you’re being more sustainable,” says Metta.
IF YOU WORK FROM A HOME SALON…
It might be time to put certain prices up says Dani Bailey of @nailsbydani
“In my home salon, I tried for as long as I could to not put prices up, but it felt like a losing battle, as the cost of materials has gone up, products and so has energy!
“I’ve found cutting up wax strips is the most cost-effective way to use lint free wipes! You’d be amazed by how many you can make from a pack of 100 strips. Typically, a pack of 100 strips will yield 800 lint free wipes.
“Similarly, cutting up foil and cotton pads for gel polish remover wraps can also help reduce costs. These can be prepared during quiet times in the salon or, if you’re a freelancer, you can do this while you’re watching Netflix at home.”
“This prompts the client to re-book, and leave a review, and if there was anything they weren’t 100% happy with it allows us a second chance to invite them back and get it sorted. I have also noticed more word of mouth recommendations coming through since we started doing this,” says Cally.
If you’re a freelancer looking for more guidance on everything from costing to marketing, be sure to download our guide at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/freelance-focus
“However, I refuse to compromise on quality so I have had to start charging for things that I used to do for free before, such as soaking off gels and nail art. All my clients have been understanding.”
Tina says: “ This way, their bill increases but they’re also saving money on a new service. Remember, you’re still a business, not a charity.”
COST-EFFECTIVE
Metta Francis says she’s been getting crafty – in the best way, when it comes to her wax strips.
STAY IN TOUCH
With over 20 years in the hair business, salon owner Cally Borg says she focuses on client retention through times of upheaval.
“Every week I set aside half an hour to do what I call ‘Client check ins’ - I go through the system and see who would be due in over the next few weeks and pick 10 random clients; I then send a personal voice note or text and say something like: ‘Hi, it’s Cally, I wanted to check in with you and see how you got on at your appointment on ….. We really value your custom and would love your feedback, if there’s anything you feel we can improve on, please let us know!’
Yes, some clients might have to go longer in between cuts, colours or nail appointments, but it’s vital you stay in touch with them during quieter periods –perhaps you have a regular newsletter or you like to keep them informed via social media. Anything is better than going silent!
Metta Francis says you can also go one better, and put together aftercare kits for your clients so they can maintain their nails at home.
“For nail techs: cuticle oil, nail strengthener, hand serums and rich creams are essential to maintain hands and nails. Put together lower cost mini packages that can be topped up frequently as well as full-sized packages that offer better value for clients who prefer longer lasting kits,” says Metta.
Metta’s aftercare kit idea isn’t just for nail techs – it’s a great option for hairstylists and colourists too – you’re not only offering advice, you’re selling retail to keep things ticking over and keeping clients happy, even when they’re not with you.
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PUT YOUR MENTAL HEALTH FIRST
The start of a new year can leave you with a jumble of mixed emotions. On the one hand, it’s the beginning of a brand new chapter that could be full of excitement. On the other hand, money worries in an unstable climate could keep you up at night. Read on for simple, sensible tips on how to take care of you.
1 Try this calming breathing technique. First of all, pause, take a breath and focus on your beating heart. Now, count to 4 as you inhale, hold for 4 counts and exhale for 8 counts. This calms your mind as it takes your attention away from over thinking or a situation you don’t feel good about.
A PROBLEM SHARED
For November
Collective co-owner Christopher Laird, it’s important to be open and honest about how he’s doing with his team so that they feel the same if they ever need him
“I encourage my team to be totally honest about how they are feeling. It’s a cliché but a problem shared is a problem halved.
“My advice is, try not to let a problem overwhelm you – tackle it bit by bit in manageable chunks and then take a breather. Give yourself permission to take a minute to yourself if you need it. It’s so easy when you’re running a busy salon – you take care of clients and staff, and often forget yourself. Take a walk, get some fresh air or just take some time to reset and refocus.
LET IT GO
Stresses can feel particularly lonely when you’re a freelancer. Nail tech Dani Bailey says sometimes you just have to focus on the things you can change – not the things you can’t.
“Much of what’s happening around us is completely out of our control, so I find unplugging from the constant stream of
news – on my phone, on TV – and taking time out for myself really helps.
Instead I prefer to focus on worrying about what I can influence - for example, when buying supplies, instead of just going to the same place I’ve always been, I start researching promotions, other suppliers, loyalty discounts etc. But the things I can’t influence? Such as the cost of energy, living, fuel etc? There’s no point in worrying about that. I have to let it go to protect my mental health,” says Dani.
BE LESS EMOTIONAL
We’ve learned a lot about getting in touch with our emotions, especially since the pandemic, but sometimes, it’s best to leave how you feel out of it. Instead, focus on the facts, says nail tech Metta Francis.
“It’s important to not get in your head about how you approach money, but if you find this difficult, speak to your accountant or financial advisor who will be able to assist with crunching the numbers. Once you know what your outgoings will be, work backwards to identify how many treatments or bookings you will need to carry out to meet these costs and then start working on a strategy. If you work alone, speak to your trusted peers, friends or family and share your concerns and burdens. You’d be surprised by how many people might be having the same thoughts and feelings and you might feel better simply by knowing you’re not alone,” advises Metta.
2 Place your full focus on the client in front of you and see them as someone who benefits from your loving kindness. Imagine seeing a bubble of love and light around them. This helps you feel more present and helps soothe any anxious feelings you might have.
3 Always remember you have the power within you to choose. The heart is more powerful than the mind so try to regularly focus on your heart for a minute or two at intervals throughout the day.
Finally, Vanessa says it’s time to seek professional help if you find yourself dealing with:
• Lashing out at someone or something more often than seems healthy.
• Wanting to hide or retreat from your clients and avoiding being around people.
• Feeling withdrawn and beating yourself up and nothing seems to make sense anymore.
28 29 THE CAPITAL CUT SPRING 23
ADVICE Shutterstock Shutterstock
Emotional health specialist Vanessa Louise Moore, AKA The Naked Coach, shares her tips to a peaceful festive season for any hair or beauty pro.
THE KEY TO HAPPY, HEALTHY SKIN!
Meet SKINICIAN, a brand founded over 10 years ago by mum and daughter duo Hilary McMurray and Shelley Martin as a way to cut through the noise of the skincare world, with one simple goal – giving your clients happy, healthy skin. Here the experienced beauty brand founders share a little more on why they’re here to help.
A QUALITY BRAND USUALLY FILLS A GAP OR PROVIDES A SOLUTION - WHAT SOLUTION IS SKINICIAN PROVIDING?
We’re bringing together the finest experts in the skincare industry – from cosmeceutical chemists, to formulators and manufacturers – because we realised people could achieve happy, healthy skin without having to spend a fortune or risk irritation. We don’t see why great skincare should be limited to a privileged few – we want everyone to benefit.
that many salons do – stocking big-name brands with extensive and over-complicated ranges that weren’t compatible with our clients’ busy lifestyles. We soon realised there was a gap in the market to not only provide salons with a professional range but also make it affordable enough that freelancers could also afford to purchase with no large opening package fees. We want everyone to enjoy and benefit from using SKINICIAN.
TELL US ABOUT YOUR HERO PRODUCTS!
WHAT WERE THE KEY CHALLENGES WHEN STARTING THE BRAND?
Development took a long time (3 years!), because we wanted to be sure that every product delivered results and worked in synergy with the rest. It also takes time to build a bank of assets such as before and afters –which help to show just how great the products are. However once we had proof of the formulations delivering results quickly, we brought in facialists to help us grow and develop the brand.
The Skinician Full Professional Kit, including Peels, will give you:
60 Glycolic Treatments at £55 = £3,300.00
60 Lactic Treatments at £75 = £4.500.00
120 Basic Protocol Treatments at £45 = £5,400.00
This means your initial investment would be recouped after just 12 Glycolic or 9 Lactic Treatments. *Online training is available for Basic Protocol Treatments and physical training in-store at Capital is required for Peeling Treatments.
IS SKINICIAN IDEAL FOR BOTH FREELANCERS AND SALONS?
As former salon owners, we found ourselves facing challenges
Every product in the SKINICIAN range stars a nourishing cocktail of actives, 90% of which are naturally derived. These are then harnessed in the lab and channelled into hybrid cosmeceutical formulas to target various different issues at once. Our Peptide Eye Complex, Overnight Retinol Powerbalm, Firming Serum and Pro-Radiance Enzyme Cleanser are just a few of our ‘hero’ products that treat the skin on a number of levels and deliver visible results quickly.
WHAT’S NEXT FOR SKINICIAN?
This year is so exciting as we’re launching in the UK with Capital Hair & Beauty. We’ve also got new product launches planned and are focused on continuing to push boundaries and create products that truly deliver.
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Want to know more about SKINICIAN? Visit capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/brands/skinician today!
#3 Glitterbels Glam Box
Glitterbels is the brainchild of Annabel Maginnis and was born out of a desire to create a new, innovative nail brand. Included in the Glambox there’s everything from sheer pinks and gorgeous glitter plus essentials such as a Nail File, No Wipe Top Coat and a Liner Detail Brush. £50.00
#2 The Manicure Company E File
Save yourself and your clients some time with The Manicure Company’s E-File
Pro. Promising an almost vibration-free experience, it features all-day battery life of up to 10 hours, a smooth 24W brushless motor and digital display screen. What more can you ask for?
£199.00/€227.60
#4 Serumology Foot and Hand Serums
Now’s the time to take care of tired hands and feet and we can’t recommend these Serumology serums enough. The foot serum contains exfoliating Pumpkin enzymes and antioxidant Bergamot, while the hand serum contains a hydrating cocktail of Watermelon, Kiwi and Pomegranate. £5.95/€7.00
EDIT THE BEAUTY
#6 Voesh Collagen Socks
Infused with vegan Collagen these nourishing socks are such a great treatment to offer for clients who’ve booked in for a mani. Pop these on while they wait and in less than 15 minutes their feet with be soft, hydrated and revived. £2.95/€3.35
#9 OPI Nature Strong
Promising up to 7 days wear and made from up to 75% natural ingredients, the new OPI Nature Strong collection will definitely appeal to clients who are looking to act more sustainably this year. As the brand’s first plantbased, vegan nail lacquer, it’s really pushing the boat out with a stunning 30 new exciting shades – our favourite has to be A Kick In The Bud, the prettiest rose cream. £8.20
#7 Way to Beauty Tanning Solution
Dark 10%
As holidays begin to enter the chat at the salon, you know this means that many of your clients will be looking for a deeper, darker tan and we highly recommend Way to Beauty’s Dark 10% . Not only is it non-streaky, it’s delicately fragranced with Vanilla, Musk, Rose and Violet, which makes it the most scents-ual way to tan! £36.35/€41.40
#10 Salon System Gellux Builder Gel
Available in four shades, this simple and easy to use builder gel enables you to build, extend and strengthen both natural nails and gel overlays as well as sculpt using forms or tips. £11.95/€14.95
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Nourishing Spring essentials you can’t afford to miss.
Shop all this and more over at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk and capitalhairandbeauty.ie SHOP #1 Maskology Thermotherapy . Offering mani or pedi and could do with a minute
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NO.4D CLEAN VOLUME DETOX DRY SHAMPOO
No.4D Clean Volume Detox is a dry cleansing formula with skincare science-inspired ingredients to detoxify and maintain scalp health between washes. After all, the scalp is skin too and the root of clean, healthy hair is a clean, healthy scalp. Cleanse. Repair. Detox.
Detoxifying & soothing to cleanse, calm and maintain a healthy scalp.
No-buildup oil absorption for a just-washed clean hair feeling. Shop in-store & online
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