The Capital Cut | Spring 2020 by Capital Hair & Beauty

Free for all Capital Hair & Beauty customers

T H E

C A P I TA L T H E

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T H E

I N S P O,

T H E

C U T

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READY FOR SPRING? YOU WILL BE! | TOP 10 TIPS TO BEING STRESS-FREE HOW TO MAKE YOUR SALON MORE SUSTAINABLE

Spring 2020

TH E C A PITA L CU T S PR I N G 2020

CONTENTS EDITOR’S LE T TER It’s a new decade so let’s start as we mean to go on! Inside we’ve packed in inspiration, education and information, to ensure 2020 is the beginning of a truly special decade. We’ve got expert business advice on page 16, and product recommendations from the Capital team on page 15. If you need tips on how to de-stress, head straight to page 42; taking time out for yourself is the only way that you’ll be able to give more, learn more and work smarter! Speaking of learning, we’ve got an amazing array of courses to ensure your brows are on point for 2020 which makes sense because brows have become seriously big business. On page 27 we’re sharing all about our fab new skincare range from MONUskin, and on page 44 we’re showing you how to take steps towards a more sustainable business. We hope 2020’s been treating you well so far – let’s do this! Also, feel free to let us know what you’d like to see more of in YOUR magazine by emailing lrigby@capitalhb.co.uk.

Lily Rigby

Andy Heasman, Rush

16 18 07 09 10 13 2

THE HEADLINES All the Capital news

TRIED AND TESTED Our top 5 products

A WEEK IN MY SHOES Birmingham-based nail tech Shenique of Hard As Nails

THE BEAUTY EDIT Our beauty faves

22 27 30 34

CAPITAL INSIDERS Top hair and beauty picks from Capital staff

TOP 3 BUSINESS DECISIONS Ask the experts

GET THE LOOK A NXT special!

MOST WANTED

Ringing in a new year with two fresh looks full of texture!

HAIR Joey Scandizzo at Eleven MAKEUP Kylie O’Toole PHOTOGRAPHY Andrew O’Toole

38 42 44

A BOLD START 3 key colour trends to watch right now

HOW TO STRESS LESS More than ever, we’re feeling the strain; check out our tips

SIMPLE WAYS TO SUSTAINABILITY Take your salon to the next level

The top 4 looks for 2020

FOCUS ON: MONUskin our latest skincare range

YOU SMOOTHIE! How to keep clients smooth from head to toe

FUTURE BROWS The trends and training for brow perfection

Lexie Shay

INSIDE

ON THE COVER

TH E C A PITA L CU T S PR I N G 2020

BE RE B FE O FO RE

AF A TF ET R ER

3-Step 3-StepService Service WHAT ISIS IT? WHAT IT? • •A A low-commitment colour service, performed inin low-commitment colour service, performed 1010 minutes, while it conditions your clients’ hair. minutes, while it conditions your clients’ hair.

WHY ISIS NO STRINGS ATTACHED COLOUR WHY NO STRINGS ATTACHED COLOUR GREAT FOR YOU, THE COLOURIST? GREAT FOR YOU, THE COLOURIST? • • Perfect way toto introduce non colour clients/time poor Perfect way introduce non colour clients/time poor clients toto colour with low commitment colour results. clients colour with low commitment colour results. • • Using Koleston Perfect ME+ colour palatte ofof 129 shades, Using Koleston Perfect ME+ colour palatte 129 shades, enabling you to reinvent your existing clients’ hair colour enabling you to reinvent your existing clients’ hair colour inin 1010 minutes, whilst conditioning their hair. minutes, whilst conditioning their hair. • • A profitable service for you whilst being cost effective A profitable service for you whilst being cost effective toto help enable more clients toto engage inin colour. help enable more clients engage colour.

CHOOSE YOUR COLOUR. CHOOSE YOUR COLOUR.

SHOW SHOWUSUSYOUR YOURWORK! WORK! @@ WellahairUK WellahairUK # #WellaColour WellaColour # #ColourFlirt ColourFlirt

MIX YOUR COLOUR. MIX YOUR COLOUR. 1pt Koleston Perfect ME+ 1pt Koleston Perfect ME+ ++ 1pt Welloxon Perfect 1.9% 1pt Welloxon Perfect 1.9% ++ 1pt Post Color 1ptINVIGO INVIGO Post Color Treatment/Elements Treatment/Elements Conditioner Conditioner

APPLY YOUR COLOUR. APPLY YOUR COLOUR. Apply your mixed shade toto pre Apply your mixed shade pre shampooed, towel dried hair shampooed, towel dried hair and develop forfor 5-10 minutes. and develop 5-10 minutes. This can be applied at the This can be applied at the section or at the backwash. section or at the backwash. NoNo need toto shampoo oror need shampoo condition, just rinse. condition, just rinse. 5

TH E C A PITA L CU T S PR I N G 2020

C A P ITA L N E W S

N E W

ENHANCED COLOUR TECHNOLOGY

FFRRIIEENNDDLLYY

N E W

B E G I N N I N G S

What’s happening at Capital and beyond

MORE SUS TAINABLE Over on page 44 we’re talking about simple ways to make your salon more sustainable, and we’re also trying to do our bit! Look out for our mailers in the post and you’ll notice something very different about them; they’re now delivered in packaging made from compostable potato starch. Designed to disintegrate, the bags are 100 percent biodegradable and are suitable for composting at home.

NEW YE AR SKILLS

We’ve got some amazing new training courses that are guaranteed to boost your business this year. Now is a great time to up your skills and also improve your bottom line. Our favourites include:

HENNA BROWS For clients who want a semi-permanent brow solution in an all-natural formula, Henna Brows are the way to go. Learn how to tint brows using henna; it stains the skin beneath the hairs, giving the effect that brows are fuller and thicker. It’s a super quick treatment, which makes it even more profitable. All you need is a qualification in brow shaping – waxing or threading – to sign up for this half-day course. £150

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VVEEGGAANN

D E C A D E ,

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RICH, VIBRANT, LONG-LASTING COLOUR ANTI-FADE COLOUR TECHNOLOGY 100% GREY COVERAGE 100ML TUBE 100ML TUBE

BROW LAMINATION Thicker, fluffier brows are the trend that keeps on growing, from the catwalk to the high street. Ensure that you can cater to this stylish demand with our Brow Lamination course; you’ll learn how to lift brow hairs from the root to make them appear thicker, and stay in place! £150 There’s lots more info on our brow-related courses over on page 34!

2020 GOALS?

There’s something about a new decade that has us taking our New Year Resolutions very seriously. One thing that we’re aiming to do is to keep regular records of goals and aims; a five year plan is great, but what about the months that make up that first year? Keeping a journal is such a handy way to stay on top of things – not just work but also your personal goals! What New Year Resolution have you made? 7

Smoothly does it It may not be warm enough to start thinking about shedding those extra layers and baring some skin, but keeping up a waxing routine during the winter months will benefit your clients as much as your business. Regular waxing removes dry, dead skin and ensures body moisturisers sink in more effectively, and Looks Warm Strip Wax in Coconut & Arnica Satin is a firm favourite with professionals everywhere. And because it can be spread really thin around the hair, you can use less to get the same oh-so-smooth results. From £4.35 / €5.75 for 450g

Skin Saviour MONUSKIN’s Moisture Rich Collagen Cream is a luxurious moisturiser that instantly soothes and nourishes even the most winter-weary skin-especially if your client is suffering from dryness or sensitivity. Infused with Marine Collagen to help firm and plump, and a blend of Evening Primrose and Blackcurrant Seed Oil to hydrate and repair, it also absorbs superfast, making it the ideal base for makeup. And like all MONUSKIN products, it’s cruelty free and contains only natural ingredients. £29.50 for 50ml. Available in selected stores only and online.

Easy as 1-2-3 Make gel nail or gel nail extensions removal speedy enough for even the most time-pressed clients with the superefficient Gel Off–Soak Off Nail Solution from The Manicure Company. Start by lightly buffing the top coat until it looks dull and shine-free. Then either apply a soaked cotton pad to each nail, or soak the nails in this acetone based solution for 10 minutes using a manicure bowl. Voilà, nails are primed and ready for your next work of art! From £4.85 / €5.20 for 570ml

Time to reset?

Createa arange rangeofofstyles styleswith withour ourSpectrum SpectrumColour ColourCollection. Collection. Create selectionofofhigh highperformance performancetools, tools,featuring featuringthree threedifferent differentsized sized AAselection wandsand andfour fourdryers, dryers,the thecreative creativepossibilities possibilitiesare areendless. endless. wands

With 2020 set to be a key time for people to update or radically change their hair, Colour Reset is the perfect partner when it comes to creating a clean canvas, by removing semi-permanent and permanent colour. It’s easy to use, contains no bleach or ammonia and is so safe, you don’t need to standby to keep an eye on it! What’s more, Colour Reset leaves hair conditioned and ready for the next step - the very same day. Look up the hashtag #ResetMyWay to see the results! £7.95 Visit your local Capital Hair and Beauty or head to www.capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk / ie to see what else we have in store…

The blow dry in a bottle For clients that are looking for smooth, frizz-free locks that scream ‘i’ve just stepped out of the salon’, there’s now a quick and easy to apply solution that delivers longlasting results. First Shampoo is applied to clean damp hair and then activated using straighteners. It can be used on the same day as any other chemical or colour treatment, so it’s a great add-on service to offer your clients, and results last up to 12 weeks. From £14.95 / €17.95 for 50ml

TRIED

The products you *need* to know about this season.

A N D

CREATE AA SPECTRUM SPECTRUM CREATE OF STYLES STYLES OF

TESTED

TOP PICKS

TH E C A PITA L CU T S PR I N G 2020

NAILS

TH E C A PITA L CU T S PR I N G 2020

Meet Shenique Dawkins, a Birmingham-based nail artist with real creative flair! Here’s how a week in her life shapes up. MONDAY

Shenique Dawkins SALON

Hard as Nails LOCATION

Birmingham, UK YEARS IN BUSINESS

A WEEK SHOES IN

3 years INSTAGRAM

@hardasnails.studio

Today’s my day off, giving me the chance to get organised for the week ahead. I start the day with a cup of tea with oat milk (I’m trying to cut down on dairy) before checking my emails and Instagram so I can plan out my appointments schedule for the week. I’ll write an Instagram post to run that morning giving details of any availability, share some nail inspo or something to motivate my clients for the week. I then do a stock take to check whether I need to order anything before heading out to meet a friend for a tennis session. When I’m not working I love to cook in the evenings. My partner is vegan so I’m experimenting with lots of new recipes at the moment.

TUESDAY Early start at the gym for a Body Pump class. I may sometimes have to drag myself there but it’s the best way to get me going for the day ahead! I’m then at the studio for around 11am ready for my first client, and today I’ve got back to back appointments until 9pm. I love meeting new clients, especially ones who haven’t had nail art done before because they’re so pleased at the end of the treatment. I’ll try and squeeze in an afternoon Instagram post in between clients, before heading home to eat dinner and crash.

WEDNESDAY I head straight to the studio from the gym and give it a quick clean before my first client arrives. I’ve got seven clients booked in today and they’re all having nail art, so I grabbed some lunch on the way in to have between appointments. Today it’s salmon and potato salad with a cheeky Coke 10

(bad I know, but sometimes I just need a sugar hit to get me through the day!). I’ll try and do an Instagram post again at some point during the day. Because nail art is so visual, Instagram is really key for marketing my business — it basically acts as my shop window. All my clients find me on there or through word of mouth, and I probably get about 20 to 30 messages a day with enquiries and booking requests.

THURSDAY I start the day with a shower and wash my hair. It’s curly and takes some TLC but I don’t bother drying it, I just condition it well to keep the frizz at bay. I leave for the studio ready for my first client at 9.30am. At lunch I take a break, then it’s back to back

filled with independent street food traders and bars. But it’s not a late finish as I’m working tomorrow.

SATURDAY I try to work at least two Saturdays a month, and today I’m in the studio from 9am5pm. I finish on the dot, head home for a quick power nap and a bath before getting ready for a date night with my partner. We go back into town for a great meal at a little pop up vegan restaurant in the Mailbox — I had delicious cauliflower wings washed down with a couple of vodka, soda and limes. But we’re home by 12.30am, I’m exhausted!

SUNDAY For me Sunday is all about relaxing and recharging after a busy week. So I’ll try and have

SHENIQUE’S ADVICE

“Work hard and enjoy the process. If you’re passionate about something you will enjoy the struggle. Always be yourself, you won’t get noticed trying to be like someone else.” clients until 8.15pm before heading home for a vegan Spaghetti Bolognese.

FRIDAY I take a break from the gym today (it’s Friday, after all!) and start at the studio at midday. I’ve got six clients booked in today, all with nail art. Marble and flames are really popular with my clients at the moment, but lots of them come in with loads of different designs, anything from abstracts to animal prints or confetti nails. I love the variety and the chance to create something really bespoke. I finish work at 7.30pm and meet up with friends at Digbeth Dining Club, a fab space near my studio

a lie in and spend a nice chilled morning with my partner. We’ve just started playing couple’s badminton which I’m really enjoying (although I’m no pro!) and after that we head out for Sunday lunch. In the afternoon I’ll catch up on some admin, checking payments are all up to date and responding to emails and Instagram DMs. Along with nails I also do LVL lash lifts so I check patch tests have all been sent out, and I’ll spend some time creating some content ready to post next week. In the evening I like to have a bath and catch up on some my favourite TV shows. I’m loving Money Heist and Power at the moment. Then it’s time for bed, ready to do it all again next week! 11

TELENOVELA ME ABOUT IT.

OPIUK.COM. MODELME IS ABOUT WEARING TELENOVELA IT.

B E AUT Y FAV E S

TH E C A PITA L CU T S PR I N G 2020

#1 The Manicure Company Spring Collection in Kaleidoscopic

#2 MONUSKIN Micro Exfoliant, 150ml

The new collection from The Manicure Company is the perfect way to usher in spring. There are six fantastic pink and purple shades to choose from, mixed with holographic tones to give a dazzling rainbow effect. We’re struggling to pick a favourite, but if we had to choose it would probably be Bright Soul, a light baby pink base with holographic glitter. Just dreamy. £39.95 / €43.25

#3 Pharmagel Enzymé Ex-Cell, 170g With extracts of Walnut shell powder, Papaya and soothing Allantoin, this exfoliating scrub gently refines pores and improves tone without stripping the skin, leaving it looking and feeling smooth and refreshed. A brilliant addition to any facial treatment, we also love applying it pre-shave, for a really close, smooth finish. From £14.00 / €17.55

T H E

#5 Hive Charcoal D/ Tox Hot Film Wax Pellets, 500g We’re not sure if it’s the Queer Eye effect, but men’s grooming has never been more popular. These wax pellets are a bit of an all-inone wonder product. Their excellent grip makes them ideal for removing strong, stubborn hair with minimal discomfort, while the Activated Charcoal helps to absorb oil and toxins from the skin. We like to think Jonathan Van Ness and the gang would approve! From £7.40 / €7.50

– FEATURING – FEATURING TELENOVELA TELENOVELA MEABOUT ABOUTITIT ME

Experiencethe thethriving thrivingart artscene sceneofofCiudad Ciudadde deMexico Mexico Experience (CDMX).Your Yournails nailsare areyour yourcanvas. canvas.Our Ourcollection, collection,your yourpalette. palette. (CDMX). CDMX-PRESSYOURSELF YOURSELFwith withthe theMexico MexicoCity CityCollection CollectionbybyOPI. OPI. CDMX-PRESS Shopthese theseNEW NEWshades shadesininGelColor, GelColor,Infinite InfiniteShine, Shine,Nail NailLacquer Lacquer Shop

OPIUK.com • #OPI MEXICOCITY • #COLOR THE ANSWER OPIUK.com • #OPI MEXICOCITY • #COLOR ISIS THE ANSWER 12

#8 Looks Lavender Hot Film Wax, 450g

Perfect for brightening dull, lacklustre skin after the long winter, this exfoliating lotion uses Papaya enzymes to clear away dead skin cells and speed up cell renewal. The result? An instantly smoother, more radiant complexion. For best results apply to your client’s skin straight after using a warm compress as the enzymes are activated by the skin’s heat. £18.95

#4 White to Brown Rapid Spray Tan Solution, 1000ml Thanks to the fast-acting tanning agents that are easily absorbed into the skin, this spray tan develops into a flawless golden glow in half the usual time. When the client is happy with the shade they simply shower it off. The addition of super-hydrating Aloe Vera and Vitamin E ensures a gradual, even fade, while the delicate floral fragrance banishes memories of the tell-tale fake tan whiff of old! £44.95 / €56.35

B E A U T Y

E D I T 10 products guaranteed to put a spring in your step #7 Nature’s Way Eucalyptus Oil, 10ml Hailed as a powerful cure-all remedy for hundreds of years, Eucalyptus Oil’s anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and analgesic properties make it a must-have when treating facial clients with skin that’s congested and prone to break outs. Simply dilute with your favourite carrier oil and massage in using long sweeping motions. Or add to a blended oil to revitalise tired, aching muscles for an invigorating body massage. From £2.40

Containing Lavender, Tea Tree and Peppermint to soothe and smooth, this super effective hot film wax is perfect to use all over the body, even on very sensitive skin. And its low melting temperature means it can be used at only a few degrees above body temperature, so there’s less risk of burning or irritating the skin. £9.95 / €10.50

#9 Natura Vegan Rose Sheet Mask Winter weather can wreak havoc on our skin so we love this Rose Sheet Mask. It releases a beautiful, relaxing fragrance while powerful botanicals calm down irritated or inflamed skin. It’s vegan-friendly and great for skin that’s blemish-prone too! £2.45 / €3.70

#6 OPI Pro Spa Intensive Moisturising Socks (1 pair)

Enriched with ultramoisturising Macadamia and Coconut Oils, and Vitamin E and Shea Butter to soften and nourish, these pre-filled single-use spa socks will get even the driest of feet ready for summer’s big reveal! They’re so soothing to pop on, and the removable toe tips mean you can move on to your client’s nails while they work their magic. £3.68 / €4.60

#10 Carmex Balm Pouch Sometimes you just can’t beat a classic. Not much has changed about Carmex’s original, liptingling formula since it was developed over 80 years ago. And that’s because this iconic little yellow pot never fails to deliver soothing relief for dry, chapped lips. This cute limited edition pouch also includes the squeezy tube. However you prefer to apply it, this hero product is a handbag essential. £2.70 13

TH E C A PITA L CU T S PR I N G 2020

INSIDERS

INSIDERS It’s always great to get tips from industry insiders, and who better to offer advice on the latest products than our very own Capital team members? Check out our current faves!

Montibello Decode Smooth Sleek Serum, £13.30

Keune Silver Savior Shampoo and Conditioner, £15.80 I use this combo weekly; it’s jam-packed with colour-neutralising pigments that remove warm tones, fused with a silk protein base that keeps hair silky soft. It keeps my blonde hair looking clean and bright while nourishing and hydrating the hair from within. Sarah at Capital Belfast

I have quite fine and curly hair so this product is great for blowdrying. Its formula isn’t too heavy and doesn’t weigh my curls down, and it also keeps the frizz away! Louise at Capital Leeds

The Manicure Company, £7.00

Fanola Mousse, £4.19

This is a nail brand with a serious range of colours – I love it. The shades are really long-lasting and they don’t dry my nail plate out – all for a very good price. Louise at Capital Leeds

FLOWER POWER

This is the do-it-all mousse for anyone wanting to embrace their waves and curls but who also needs some heat protection! I love the fact that you can also use it on dry hair to create even more definition. Karen at Capital Portsmouth

Crazy Colour, £2.65 About three to four times a year I decide to add colour to my bleached hair. Crazy Colour gives me a bright and even colour – my favourites are Candyfloss, Bubblegum Blue and Capri Blue. As with all fashion colours, they do fade, so I tend to mix them in with my conditioner and use it as a weekly top-up! Karen at Capital Portsmouth

Babyliss PRO Titanium Expression Big Hair Hot Air Brush, £39.95

@salonsystem www.salonsystem.com

8 NEW shades from the Gellux Spring Collection. Available at Capital Hair & Beauty Now. 14

#Gellux

I discovered this hot brush when I was on a Salon Ambience trip in Italy and I’d forgotten my hairdryer! Charlotte from the Kingston store saved the day by introducing me to the PRO T Expression. Basically, it’s a hot brush that blows hot air and rotates in both directions; it gives you that perfect, bouncy salon blowdry at home! Sarah at Capital Belfast Shop all our teams’ favourites and more at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk or by visiting your nearest Capital store today! 15

TH E C A PITA L CU T S PR I N G 2020

WHAT YOU C AN D O NOW TO BRING IN MORE

BUSINESS

®®

This time of year can feel tough going for many businesses, with clients traditionally tightening their belts after the festive spending spree. We asked three industry experts for their top tips for keeping the tills ringing.

•

Nikki Porter, Owner of Rubi Hair Malvern, @nikkiporter_hair • Invest in your team with team building days and training. If you have a solid team that genuinely get along with each other, this flows on to clientele. We currently have the highest team retention we’ve had in years, and I honestly believe it is because our team like us and feel valued. We close our businesses for two full days a year 16

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Adam Alamine, Owner of Royals Hair Sydney, @royalshair • With four salons and an Academy we are always actively thinking about how to bring more business in. We plan our year ahead and meet quarterly to adjust budgets and plans so we are proactive in our approach. Don’t stop marketing, even when you’re busy. Set up a marketing schedule with all the key dates and all your promotions pre-planned well in advance. You can then adjust it with the season or trends, and as your goals change. Invest in great point of sale software and run projections and reports to see where your performance needs to improve. Invest time in your social media and boost your posts in the areas your reports show you’re underperforming in.

KALEIDOSCOPIC •

•

and invest in ‘industry icons’ to train our entire team so we’re all on the same page. We also really utilise our reps, and get them involved in training throughout the year. Love it or hate it, in a world of visual marketing, Instagram is now the biggest make or break for your salon! We have invested in a social media expert to educate us on what makes people follow you and engage with your page — it’s all about interaction. We follow our clients back, and our content is a real mix of hair, our team, tutorials and a bit of fun. Video content is the hottest thing right now- especially IGTV. The ethos of your product company has to mirror your company’s views. So do your research, and choose products which reflect what you stand for as a business. Lisa Stone, Salon System Educator, @salonsystem • Take time to reflect on what has worked over recent months, and what hasn’t. This will allow you to see where to concentrate future efforts and what needs changing, helping you to set achievable

•

COLLECTION COLLECTION

goals. Involve staff in this and hold regular team meetings. Setting incentives for staff is really motivating and helps create some friendly competition. Get your existing clients interested in other treatments on offer. Add-on services are an easy way to increase business and revenue, so for every client you already have booked in try and encourage an up-sell. For example, if a client is booked in for a ½ leg wax, try and up-sell a full leg. It’s all about making sure clients are fully aware of what you offer. Do you need to update your skills to keep up to date with the latest trends and demands? If so look into training for yourself or your team. Make sure you have enough eyecatching marketing material around your salon and treatment room to help spark conversations and encourage sales. Consider offering a discount on additional services, or sample products to encourage retail sales. Also focus on up-selling around seasonal occasions or party packages. Creating client loyalty is a great way to not only reward clients but also encourage them to try new services or refer their friends and family.

17 @themanicurecompany @themanicurecompany

TH E C A PITA L CU T S PR I N G 2020

HAIR

GET LOOK

GLOSSY BAL AYAGE

Adding natural sun-kissed tones throughout the hair to create a shimmering multi-dimensional effect.

T H E

W I T H

STEP 1

N X T

Start by applying a base shade. We mixed Permanent Colour 5.0 1:1 with Crème Developer 10vol/3%, which was similar to the hair’s natural colour and tone.

STEP 2 Perform a freehand root drag. Create four sections on the diagonal — two on the side and two in the centre. To achieve a softer colour application, create some movement in the hair by teasing the roots and gently backcombing. Apply a 1:2 parts mixture of Pro-Tech Bleach with Crème Developer 20vol/6% below the backcombed hair, continuing through all sections, alternating with the base shade. Remember that feathering the colour upwards, rather than applying the colour in a straight line, creates a softer blend. Let the colour develop for 35 minutes, before rinsing and shampooing with IQ Intense Moisture Shampoo.

STEP 3 Next use a brush to apply 8.13 SemiPermanent Toner to the mid lengths and ends, leaving to develop for 20 minutes before rinsing and using IQ Intense Moisture Shampoo and IQ Intense Moisture Conditioner.

STEP 4 For added bounce apply IQ Root Boost throughout before blow-drying. Finish with IQ Style Spray for control and shine.

STYLING CREDITS Colour: Stephanie Gamble Styling: Ashley Gamble 1 IQ Intelligent Haircare Shampoo 300ml £3.49 / €4.40

RE ADY FOR S OME NE W SE A S ON COLOUR INSPIR ATION? YOU’RE IN LUCK. IN THIS ISSUE WE’RE SHARING THREE STUNNING STATEMENT LO OK S, CRE ATED BY STEPHANIE GAMBLE AND ASHLEY GAMBLE OF ASHLEY GAMBLE, USING PRODUCTS FROM NXT COLOUR. 18

@ashleygamblehair

2 IQ Root Boost £4.49 / €5.65 3 NXT Pro-Tech Bleach £8.95 / €11.20

4 NXT Colour £4.75 / €5.45

TH E C A PITA L CU T S PR I N G 2020

HAIR

ICE-COOL HIGHLIGHTS

BOLD AND BRIGHT

Ready to turn heads? Turn the colour dial up to the max with fiery red tones.

Transforming over-processed, yellowing hair to a gorgeously shiny, cool blonde.

STEP 1 Start by sectioning the hair in a diamond formation, ready to apply the colour. For this look brighter slices were placed around the face to enhance the model’s features, but you can adapt your section pattern to emphasise different parts of a cut (this works especially well on shorter hair). For the slices use Pro-Tech Blue Bleach mixed equally with Crème Developer 10vol/3%. Use Permanent Colour 7-4 mixed 1:1 with Crème Developer 20vol/6% for the global colour.

STEP 1 Start by applying Pro-Tech Blue Bleach mixed 1:2 with Crème Developer 20vol/6% to the front and central sections, using foils. Leave the colour to develop for 40 minutes before removing the foils. Rinse and rough dry.

STEP 2 Next, it’s time to apply a toner. Mix Semi-Permanent Colour Toner 9-01 1:1 with Crème Developer 20vol/6% and apply from root to tip. Leave on for 20 minutes. Rinse and shampoo and condition using IQ No Yellow Shampoo and IQ Silverising Conditioner.

STEP 2 Using foils apply colour to four slices on each side of the head, working from the front right through to the back of the head. Then apply the global colour to the rest of the hair, working through from root to tip. Leave to develop for 35 minutes before rinsing.

STEP 3 STEP 3

Time for the toner. Apply Semi-Permanent 7.43 to the highlighted sections of the hair using a brush. Allow to develop for 20 minutes. Rinse, shampoo and condition using IQ Intense Moisture Shampoo and IQ Intense Moisture Conditioner.

Trim the fringe at the jawline using a razor to add extra dimension to the hair and accentuate the face.

STEP 4 STEP 4

Protect the hair from heat damage and prevent frizz by applying IQ Blow Dry Cream before blow drying. For some extra volume and texture, finish by applying IQ Clever Dust at the roots.

Towel dry before applying IQ 10-in-1 Spray treatment throughout the hair, and comb through. For extra shine and heat protection work a pound coin sized dose of IQ Blow Dry Cream evenly through the hair, before blow drying. Working section by section, use a nozzle to direct the heat on to a paddle brush to create a polished glass-like finish. Finish by misting the hair with IQ Hairspray all over.

1 Procare Aluminium Foil 100x100 £7.90 / €7.65

1 IQ Silverising Mask £8.99 / €8.30 2 NXT Semi-Permanent Colour in Very Light Ash Blonde 9-0 1:1 £4.75 / €5.45 3 IQ Clever Dust £5.99 / €5.99 4 Créme Developer £4.25 / €5.35

2 Head-Gear Paddle Brush £3.95 / €3.90

3 IQ Intense Moisture Shampoo and Conditioner £3.49 / €4.40 4 IQ Intelligent 10 in 1 Spray £4.49 / €5.65

M O S T

W A N T E D

TH E C A PITA L CU T S PR I N G 2020

“When it comes to cutting in a bob like this it all depends how short your client dares to go! Jawlines are 22

“The beauty of this style is that clients can go as short as they dare; the choppiness enhances texture, while adding some seasonal highlights throughout can help to add even more depth to the style. It also looks great when styled in messy, random waves. This style has an effortlessly undone approach that looks like you’ve tried, but not too hard.” Thomas Hills, TH1 Hair, @th1hairofoxted

This season is all about going big and embracing curl and natural texture! “Natural curls and perms will be making a return. Big and air-dried, the cut has layers and a strong shape, with the length sitting between collarbone and breastbone. It’s all about a structured shape and the tightness of the curl. After years of intense blow-drying, air-drying can feel unfamiliar but less is more here; the foundation should be a fantastic cut that encourages the natural movement of the hair. Style with gentle products that feel weightless and encourage natural hold. I love TIGI Bed Head Get Twisted Anti-Frizz Finishing Spray.” Andrew Jose, Andrew Jose London, @andrewjwjose

“Big hair is always enough! It’s a timeless style that never dates. I love a bouncy blowdry for a modern editorial finish and some soft, lived-in texture.” Amy Gaudie, Urban Chic Salon, @urbanchicsalon “Once again voluminous hair is up there as one of the hottest trends for the approaching season. Think big, beautiful curls. Depending on the length of the client’s hair, the style can be adapted. For longer locks, I would suggest a one length cut which allows you to create a wealth of curls and volume, all with an even base line.” Philip Bell, Ishoka Hair and Beauty, @philipabell

Amy Gaudie

Super-sized

a great guideline for that wow factor bob, but you can always drop it down half an inch if they feel that’s too much. I love using texturising scissors with a vertical triangle section on mids and ends to remove weight and encourage a ’swish’.” Nikki Porter, Rubi Hair Malvern, @rubi.hair

Amy Gaudie

“The jagged edge bob is one of my favourite hairstyles for spring, as it’s so easy to manage between appointments. The texture in the ends can be utilised to create endless looks from sleek S bend waves to bouncy curls, taking clients from day to night.” Amy Gaudie, Urban Chic Salon, @urbanchicsalon

Ishoka

Thomas Hill

TREND 2

TREND 1

The bob never goes out of style, but this season’s incarnation is a bit less polished than usual. Choppy, with soft, jagged layers try a feathered finish for extra lift.

Andy Heasman, Rush

Here are our top 4 styles for Spring 2020

Ready for some new season hair inspo?

Jagged Edge Bob

HAIR

TREND 3

The Lob Sitting between the chin and the collarbone, the Lob is versatile, chic and flattering to almost every hair type and face shape.

Westrow

“The lob will be one of the most popular looks for Spring 2020. This collarbone length cut is perfect for those who don’t want to opt for a bob hairstyle and want something a little bit longer and more versatile. Whether worn down or up, this hairstyle is effortless and when cut bluntly the cut gives the appearance of thicker, healthier-looking hair.” Carly Price, Muse of London, @museoflondon

Mark Leeson

Muse of London

TH E C A PITA L CU T S PR I N G 2020

TREND 4

Short and Sweet Sleek structure, short cuts and sharp lines were all over the runways during the Spring/Summer shows.

“This season it’s all about the strong styles coming back into play. Think strong bobs, statement fringes and blunt cuts. With the bobs, we will see them being short, with the cut being just below the ear, with the addition

Westrow

1 L’Oréal Serie Expert Vitamino Acidic Seal 250ml £12.65 / 2 TIGI Bed Head Screw It Curl Hydrating Jelly 100ml £7.50 / 3 L’Oréal Professional Tecni.ART Fix Anti Frizz 250ml £8.20 / €10.80 / 4 Fanola Styling Tools Volume Up Root Spray 250ml £6.95 / 5 Schwarzkopf OSiS+ Sparkler 300ml £7.99 / 6 Fanola Styling Tools Power Style Extra Strong Hairspray 750ml £4.50 / 7 Goldwell StyleSign Creative Texture 150ml £8.30

Rainbow Room International

“I think the lob will still be a very popular cut. It’s a great choice for people that like the versatility of being able to wear their hair up or down, and it just looks so super cool too.” Joseph Ferraro, Joseph Ferraro Hair, @josephferrarohair

of the short sharp fringe to create a real statement look.” Kevin Paul Finnell, F&M Hairdressing, @fmhairdressing “This season’s nod to androgyny was for me the most interesting style trend to emerge from Spring/Summer ’20. Sharon Wauchob’s models sported flat, no volume locks, cut into sharp edged bobs that were heavy on the shine and with a strong side parting that looked hard and masculine.” Steve Rowbottom, Westrow, @westrowhair

“Asymmetrical styles will be making a big appearance, where the hair is left slightly longer at the front, allowing the hair to look healthier. This haircut works on all face shapes and looks great whether it’s styled straight or waved and can be worn even more contemporary by pairing the cut with a side parting.” Suzie McGill, Rainbow Room International and Schwarzkopf UK Ambassador, @suziemcgillhair_

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BEAUTY

T H E

N E W

B E A U T Y S T A N D A R D

GO BEYOND GREAT HAIR COLOUR Hair colour that turns heads. Extraordinary brilliance and shine. You can expect more than just ordinary hair colour from Goldwell.

GO BEYOND

#GOGOLDWELL

The start of a new year is the perfect time to think about how to really refine and hone your beauty ethos. If you’ve been looking for a skincare brand that’s indulgent and pampering, isn’t tested on animals and is created here in the UK, then it’s time you learned more about MONU Skincare. 26

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BEAUTY

Salicylic and Citric Acids. This is a treatment that every therapist should offer as it treats a wealth of skincare concerns, such as pigmentation, acne, rosacea and scarring. What’s more, the treatment is available in three different strengths: 10%, 15% and 20%, which of course means it can only be used by professionals. For clients who want an at-home peel, you can introduce them to the 10% Homecare Kit, a great opportunity to boost retail sales.

Meet the hero products! Micellar Water – Containing prebiotics to protect against pollution and bacteria, this is more than your average Micellar Water. Use it during facial treatments to spritz away makeup or freshen skin post-treatment. Or use as part of a double cleanse; it’s perfect to use after the gorgeous-smelling Cleansing Balm and makes a great luxe treatment. Micro Exfoliant – A brilliant multi-tasking and vegan-friendly exfoliant, this works mechanically and enzymically. While crushed shells gently remove dead skin cells, revitalising papaya enzymes get to work on a deeper level. Advise your clients to use it 2-3 times a week and they’ll soon be rewarded with radiant, smooth skin.

Getting to know MONU

The MONU range

While you might not have heard the name MONU before, its heritage goes back to 1980, when it was established in Cheltenham Spa, in the heart of the Cotswolds. Since then the brand has grown and grown, and yet is still independently owned, with its own factory and training facilities.

With 30 years of experience, MONU has an established core range of products, plus some amazing complementary ranges. There’s Dry and Sensitive, Normal/Combination and Oily/ Problematic – all of which are brilliant for providing everything from effective express facials to luxe, soothing aromatic treatments. For mature skin, there’s Renew, an advanced anti-ageing range for those 50+. Including ingredient-ofthe-moment Hyaluronic Acid, active marine Magnesium, Wild Yam and Soya, the range gets to grips with problematic hormones that can cause skin conditions to fluctuate.

In line with the increasing trend for natural ingredients and the demand for recyclable packaging, MONU ticks all the right boxes; all products contain natural ingredients, essential oils and plant extracts, without even a single ingredient being tested on animals. There are no artificial colours or fragrances, No SLS and no Lanolin. Currently the brand proudly wears the Best of Nature logo and the range is made up of around 80 percent veganfriendly treatments and products. 28

For clients who want to seriously revitalise their skin, there’s also MONU Plus, which includes the ultra-popular resurfacing treatment containing a hardworking blend of Glycolic, Lactic,

Visit capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk to find out more

All imagery supplied

Moisture Rich Collagen Cream – This is the ultimate treat for dry, tired skin. Enriched with Blackcurrant Seed Oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Rose and Marine Collagen, this cream works hard to restore optimal moisture and strengthen the skin, all while smoothing fine lines, firming and toning.

BEAUTY

SMOOTHIE

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1. DRYNESS

Cracked, chapped and dry skin? Read on…

Massage peeling nails and cracked cuticles with oil to rehydrate and improve blood flow to the nail bed.

CHAPPED LIPS The skin on the lips is thinner than the rest of the face and they have no oil glands to protect them from drying out, making them the first place to crack once the temperature drops. Lip balms that include Shea Butter, Beeswax or Cocoa Butter are the most effective for treating dry, chapped lips, forming a protective barrier to lock in moisture for longer. Gently buff the dead skin cells away with a warm, damp flannel before treating.

WINTER-WORN SKIN This time of year is when an intensive face mask can really work wonders, nourishing the skin and repairing any cold-weather inflicted damage (wind burnt cheeks and red noses, we’re looking at you). Sheet masks provide the perfect pick-me-up for your clients, as they can target specific skin needs, be it hydration, gentle exfoliation or brightening. They’re easy and mess-free to apply and once they’re smoothed over the face the mask acts as a barrier to seal in the ingredients, so all the goodness is soaked directly into the skin. An instant complexion saver and relaxing to use too.

HANDS AND NAILS

Chilly temperatures, biting winds, central heating, steaming hot showers…with all that to contend with it’s no wonder that come spring our skin is left feeling tight, dry and distinctly lacking glow. Here’s our guide to the most common seasonal skin concerns, and how to help your clients feel super-smooth from top to toe again. With a few skincare tweaks and tricks we can almost forget winter ever happened… 30

Over-exposure to the elements can leave hands in need of some extra TLC. Treat your clients by slipping on some moisture-infused gloves during their treatment to help nourish and soothe cracked, chapped and flaky hands and restore their former glory. Look for products including Collagen or Retinols to help plump out lines and smooth out texture. Nails don’t escape lightly during the winter months either.

FEET Hidden away for months, feet can be sorely neglected come spring, leaving them rough, dry and cracked. Undo some of the damage before sandal season by treating them to an intensive exfoliation session. Foot peel booties containing an AHA (Alpha-Hydroxy Acids) infused serum are complete wonder-workers, removing dead skin within seven to 10 days of application to reveal silky, smooth summer-ready feet.

2. DEHYDR ATION

With less humidity in the air and constant temperature fluctuations, post-winter skin is left seriously parched. Skincare regimes need to be adapted to ensure moisture levels are boosted and to replace lost water in the skin.

DRINK UP A key ingredient in most hydrating products, Hyaluronic Acid should be your go-to for treating thirsty skin. Said to hold up to 1000 times its weight in water it will leave the skin feeling smoother and plumper, and with less visible lines and wrinkles. Encourage your clients to layer moisture-boosting serums underneath their moisturiser. If they haven’t already, suggest they upgrade their usual moisturiser to something richer at this time of year, choosing a cream over a lotion. They can super-charge their favourite night cream too by adding a couple of drops of facial oil, although clients with oily or blemish-prone skin should stick to water-based products. 31

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REDISCOVER THAT GLOW Many clients think they should steer clear of exfoliating when their skin is feeling fragile and stressed out. But there is no point in investing in a moisture-boosting skincare routine without removing any build-up of dead skin cells first, as they will prevent serums and moisturisers from being properly absorbed. Products containing AHAs (Alpha-Hydroxy Acids) like Glycolic or Lactic Acid will help gently slough away dead skin cells to reveal smoother, brighter skin beneath. They are both gentle enough to be used by most skin types, although clients who suffer with very sensitive skin, acne or rosacea need to be careful not to overexfoliate. Stick to once or twice a week.

3. FEELING FL AK Y

As with the face, regularly exfoliating the body is as important now as it is in the summer (even if none of us are planning to ditch the tights just yet). It keeps flaky, dry skin and bumps at bay, and also helps prevent ingrowing hairs by releasing those trapped by dead skin cells.

SCRUB UP The skin on our bodies is more resilient than on our faces and can handle a good proper work over, either with a granular scrub or using some exfoliating gloves. An invigorating bout of body-brushing before showering is another great way to unclog pores and deflake, and is said to improve circulation, support the lymph system and eliminate toxins too. Advise clients to start at their feet, brushing up each leg in long straight strokes in the direction of the heart, doing the same with each arm, and brushing their stomach and chest in a circular clockwise motion.

their hair grow back slower, lighter and thinner over time. So, this is a great time to encourage them to book in for a course of regular treatments and reap the benefits come summer.

NOURISH When it comes to moisturising legs and arms, advise products that contain Vitamin E and Aloe Vera to soothe and hydrate flaky and irritated skin. Similarly look out for humectants like Glycerin, Urea, and Lanolin which help to draw moisture up to the skin’s top layers, providing welcome relief. They should be applied to damp skin which has been blotted rather than rubbed dry, immediately after washing. Be sure to let your clients know that super-hot showers and baths are not ideal for the colder months, however indulgent they feel; all that will happen is that their skin will become more dry and susceptible to irritation too. They can combat any further dryness by switching to a soap-free, creamy cleanser that won’t strip the skin of moisture.

charissekenion.com

WAXING

As well as keeping clients hair-free all year round, regular waxing also plays a part in removing dead, dry skin and so allowing body lotions and creams to be absorbed more rapidly and efficiently. And then there’s the added benefit that by maintaining their waxing routine throughout the year clients will see

ITCHY SCALP Switching between the cosy indoors and the cold outside can leave the scalp itchy and prone to flakiness. If your client is suffering recommend a conditioner packed with hydrating oils like Coconut, and advise them to massage into the scalp, not just the strands. 33

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BROWS

IS THREADING A LUCRATIVE ADDITION TO A SALON’S OR BEAUTY THERAPIST’S SERVICE MENU?

Training Solutions in Beauty

TRAINING

“Yes! A salon or therapist needs to be able to cater to as many clients as possible – but not all clients are suitable for waxing, for a variety of reasons, and still might want to remove facial hair or get their brows shaped. Threading not only meets this demand but has a low investment cost. Plus, treatments are quick, creating the potential for high turnover. It’s also a natural add-on treatment to boost profits alongside existing services such as lash and brow tints.”

LEARN WITH US: Take our 1-Day course in Eyebrow Threading & Shaping. Suitable for beginners. £115.

Marvelbrow The Marvelbrow course is suitable for the complete beginner and those wishing to update their existing skills in brow tinting or shaping.

HOW LONG DO THE EFFECTS LAST? Up to six weeks.

LEARN WITH US: Take our 1-Day course in Marvelbrow Sculpt, Colour & Correct. Suitable for beginners. £115.

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Another brilliant alternative for clients who crave balanced brows is Salon System’s Marvelbrow – a unique system that corrects unruly, over-tweezed, greying and misshapen brows. If you decide to invest in this course, you’ll initially learn how to create a prescriptive treatment plan for correct shape, balance and colour tone, moving on to in-depth Face Shape Analysis. Finally, the course will cover six corrective brow shaping techniques – all aimed to sculpt, define, lengthen and thicken the brows.

Threading Threading has been around for centuries, and there’s a reason for its longevity, says Gemma Pender at Training Solutions; “Threading is an inexpensive, safe, fast and simple effective method of hair removal. It removes facial hair quickly and effectively without damaging the skin. It’s a great alternative for those who are sensitive to other depilatory treatments but still want a smooth, well-groomed appearance.”

HOW LONG DO THE EFFECTS LAST? “Like with other methods of hair removal – where the hair is being removed as opposed to cut – results will last anywhere between 10 days and five weeks. Over time hair re-growth becomes finer and sparser,” says Gemma.

Training Solutions in Beauty

Brows are set to be the biggest thing in beauty this year and bold brows is a trend that’s here to stay! if you’re going to invest in anything for your business this year, make it brow training. We have some amazing courses – here’s why you should book one of them!

TRAINING

Brow Lamination Brow Lamination is the latest brow trend to hit the industry and it’s definitely here to stay! Here Julie-Ann of Henna Brows International breaks down exactly what it is, and why you should sign up to learn more about it. “Brow Lamination uses a chemical process to break down the disulfide bonds in the hairs to allow us to then manipulate them into the desired shape. We then use a solution to rebuild the disulfide bonds which sets and fixes the hairs in place, followed by a nourishing solution that is left on to nourish the hairs and restore keratin.

WHO IS A PRIME CANDIDATE FOR BROW LAMINATION? “Most clients can benefit from lamination; clients with down turned brows who desire a thicker, fuller and fluffier brow. Or clients with thick, unruly brows. Lamination doesn’t need to be fluffy; we can also create a sleek shape or set the hairs downwards for clients with coarse, wiry brows – think of your older clientele with those coarse and wiry grey hairs – this is a game changer!”

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Henna is another natural ingredient that has been used for centuries in hair colouring and strengthening. Julie-Ann breaks it down for us. “Henna is a longer lasting alternative to tint, it contains no lead, no ammonia and doesn’t require the use of hydrogen peroxide. It’s also natural and veganfriendly. Our henna is a simple 2-step process: all you need to add is mineral water – there’s no need for any unnecessary shampoos or exfoliators.”

HOW LONG DO THE EFFECTS LAST? From 6-8 weeks.

After mapping out the client’s brows, you’ll then colour match them, from a range of seven options that can be blended to create a bespoke tone for the client. During the training you’ll learn how to create an ombre brow, and how to find the perfect colour matches for blondes, redheads and those needing grey coverage.

LEARN WITH US: Take our 4-hour course Brow Lamination. Students must hold a qualification in brow shaping (waxing/threading). £150.

WHO IS A PRIME CANDIDATE FOR HENNA BROWS?

Training Solutions in Beauty

“Probably the most common misconception with brow lamination is that the hairs are ‘stuck’ in place afterwards, which can be off-putting to the client! But this is incorrect; after lamination the hairs will still move, meaning they can be brushed down if necessary. so you can still brush the brows down if need be and style them.”

Henna Brows

“We’re finding it’s really popular with older clients who struggle to get the coverage on coarse grey hairs using tint. With henna we can create some really soft, flattering colours for older clients who don’t want them too dark.”

HOW LONG DO HENNA BROWS LAST? Around six weeks with the correct home care and aftercare.

LEARN WITH US: Take our 4-hour course in Henna Brows. Students must hold a qualification in brow shaping (waxing/threading). £150.

To learn more, visit capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/ training/eyebrow-eyelash-courses today 36

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B O L D

Lexie Shay Rabbett

S T A R T

Lexie Shay Rabbett

HAIR

Here’s our need-to-know guide to three of the colour trends that will be everywhere this spring.

THE LOWDOWN Believe us when we say that this trend is so hot, it hurts. We’re talking bold, chunky streaks of colour in stark contrast to the rest of the hair (think Billie Eilish). More than a little inspired by thick ‘90s style highlights, this trend is a world away from softer techniques such as balayage and mid-lights that have dominated the industry over recent years.

Mark Leeson

Bright, ballsy blocks of colour look amazing, but the contrast effect can still be achieved when using two different shades within the same tonal group, like an ash and dark blonde for instance. However you choose to interpret this trend, a pop of contrasting colour framing the face really brightens the complexion and accentuates the features, and it’s just a great way for a client to have fun with something a bit different.

“All of my current work for shoots, shows and in the salon revolves around contrasting colours, blues against oranges,

green and pinks. Colours that shouldn’t go together but somehow just work! My favourite one recently has been a pastel blue/silver into a peachy coral shine line! Show-stopping hair is no longer just for stages or models, with clients willing to step outside the boundaries and have fun. There is no right or wrong way of doing this trend.” Lexie Shay Rabbett, Hive Hair Salon and Pulp Riot Riot Squad Educator, @hair_by_lexieshay “When creating a big contrast, I always like to keep the front section around the face a bit lighter than the rest of the hair for a more dramatic look that really stands out. This more experimental and fun take on colour is something I think we will definitely see a lot more of in 2020. Pink shades work especially well, especially when you keep the colour more muted in the front around the face and then have the hair a bit brighter throughout the rest.” Leandro Santos Santanna, Decode Hair by Leandro, @decode_hair_by_leandro

block-like colour placement is set to overtake the delicate colour melts that have dominated trends over the last few years. A perfect example is half and half hair. There are so many ways to wear this look, be it an intense fuchsia pink contrasting with a mint green, or half deep blue, half platinum. Basically, anything goes!” Heffy Wheeler, HX Hair and OSMO Brand Ambassador, @hxhair

AFTER CARE Bold colours do require extra TLC to prevent fade and keep them looking vibrant. Encourage your client to use products especially designed for coloured hair, and to book in for a glossing treatment in between colour services. Lexie Shay Rabbett

Colour Contrasting

“When it comes to vibrant and unnatural colours a more 39

HAIR

Coloured Curls

“When colouring curly hair, consultation with the client is a must. If the pieces are too subtle they can get lost in the texture of the curls, so more bold sections may be necessary if the client wants to see the colour more prominently. You also need to be mindful not to over-process the hair with bleach as this can affect the curl. There are so many other colours that can be used and still give four to five shades of lift, while preserving the integrity of the curls.” Joseph Ferraro, Joseph Ferraro Hair, @josephferrarohair

“This is definitely a trend to look out for. A more natural take on the balayage technique that has been a favourite amongst clients over the past 12 months, this look is very subtle and is created using a freehand technique, with the colour painted onto the hair and blending gradually to give the perfect blend.” Chris Williams, RUSH Hair, @chrisw_rush

AFTER CARE Deep conditioning treatments are essential for moisturising and strengthening curly hair that’s been coloured.

Krysia Eddery

Joseph Ferraro

Lexie Shay Rabbett

Lisa Polini

But as more and more clients embrace their natural texture and move away from relaxing or straightening, the industry has worked to develop innovative new ways to create bespoke, multi-dimensional colour for curly hair. Pintura is a colouring technique specifically designed for curly, wavy and textured hair, where colour is free painted without using foils, and as with balayage you can create something completely bespoke, working with your client’s curl pattern and tightness. Try bringing in subtle streaks of sun-kissed colour around the face, or add real depth with all over highlights.

Balayage techniques have got more and more advanced, but in 2020 it’s a case of less is more, with the twisted balayage technique taking centre stage. This is a very modern, natural take on balayage that looks effortlessly elegant. It’s created by sectioning the hair, then applying the colour only to the ends, in a twisting motion. The result is far less concentrated, with a flawless blend between the base colour and the brightest tone.

“This is a great way to introduce colour to a client who may have reservations about upkeep. Maintenance of hair colour is often a concern worth considering during a colour consultation; one of a client’s first questions is often ‘When will this need redoing?’. Twisted balayage is a quick and easy technique for adding some colour to the mid lengths and ends of the hair, and if you’re working with virgin hair it’s easy to add more than one colour. Remember to keep it simple; freehand colour should never replace the colour saturation required with a set of foils.” Jonathan Harries, Shine Hair Group, @shinehairbrighton “This is a great way for clients to add movement and shine to their hair, and it’s a really low maintenance hair colour service. It’s all about giving the hair a very natural, sun-kissed like finish, so never go too light with the colour. My favourite combination is a chocolate brown paired with caramel for a really expensive look.” Krysia Eddery, Perfectly Posh Hair, @krysiawesthair

AFTER CARE

Krysia Eddery

“I love helping my clients embrace their natural curls. The tip I give them is to use cold water when washing or rinsing their hair. Back in Australia, my curly hair clients felt their hair was always better when they went swimming in the ice-cold natural creeks, leaving it shinier and tighter than ever before! I love enhancing a client’s natural colour by lightening single strands using the pintura technique, or going all out and creating a fun vivid number! Vivids aren’t just for straight hair; curls are way more fun!” Lexie Shay Rabbett, Hive Hair Salon and Pulp Riot Riot Squad Educator, @hair_by_lexieshay

Krysia Eddery

This season it’s all about encouraging your curly-haired clients to embrace colour! Traditionally foil techniques such as balayage have not worked as effectively on curly or textured hair, often producing more blocky results that don’t enhance the hair’s natural movement in the same way as with straight hair.

THE LOWDOWN

“Curls and movement are playing a big part in the trends I’m delivering to my longer length clients. Rich reds and fiery coppers are enhancing that bold statement, and by teaming these colour combinations with soft styling and moveable product layering, these looks are super achievable for the client.” Lisa Polini, Hype Hair Studio, @the_hairy_god_mother

Chris Williams, Rush

THE LOWDOWN

Twisted Balayage

Lexie Shay Rabbett

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Suggest your client switches to a less drying sulphate-free shampoo to help keep their balayage looking glossy and vibrant right through to their next salon visit. 41

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H O W

T O

S T R E S S L

We live in an age where we’re ‘always on’; on the go, all the time. But if you’re starting each day feeling frazzled and overwhelmed it’s going to affect every part of your life, from work to relationships. It’s time to press pause and address it. Here are some easy ways to instant calm.

BREAK IT DOWN

It’s easy to send yourself into a panic when everything feels urgent. Write down everything you need to do so you can prioritise. Ask yourself; does it all really need doing today? Break each job into smaller tasks that would each take no more than 10 minutes. That way every time you get a spare moment you can tick something off the list. Everything will feel more manageable.

Schedule some time each day to be active. Even short bursts of exercise can help clear your head, promote better sleep and improve your overall health and wellbeing. Find a friend to join you it will help you be more accountable. If working up a sweat isn’t your thing, just going for a 15-minute walk (ideally somewhere green and peaceful) will clear your head and boost levels of those stress-busting endorphins.

TURN OFF, TUNE OUT

With everything accessible at a swipe of a finger, it’s harder than ever to switch off. “Previously, when we would have been doing nothing, we now have the option to do a whole menu of things: text, check email, catch up on social media, or browse the bottomless resource that is the internet”, explains Melanie Barnes (@geoffreyandgrace), author of ‘Seeking Slow: Reclaim Moments of Calm in Your Day’. Melanie recommends that you put some boundaries in place to create some distance between you and your phone. At the end of the work day put your phone in 42

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MOVE

another room, or switch to airplane mode. Also, once a week try to have a complete digital detox and stay offline. Not only will it have a positive effect on your mood and concentration levels, it might even inspire your next business brainwave!

BREATHE PROPERLY

When we’re stressed we tend to take quick, shallow breaths without even realising. Focus on taking slower, deeper breaths for a couple of minutes - inhaling for the same count as you exhale. If you find it difficult to focus try a mindfulness app like Headspace or Calm.

SLEEP TIGHT

Getting a decent night’s sleep is one of the most important things you can do when you’re feeling stressed; it helps repair and

recharge your body, declutter your mind and regulate your moods. Trouble is, when you’re stressed you’re more likely to experience broken sleep. Try to establish a routine by going to bed and waking up at the same time each day. Have a hot bath before bed, adding in some calming essential oils like Lavender, and ban all electronic devices from the bedroom. The blue light they emit mimics daylight and disrupts the release of the sleep-inducing hormone melatonin. Whether it’s during the working day or after hours, there’s always something you could be doing. Stop pressurising yourself and start taking micro-breaks - especially when you’re busy. If you know there’s a 15-minute window in your day use it to slow down, and sit down. 43

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1 0 S I M P L E WAY S T O M A K E YOUR SALON MORE

@GLAM.BY.HEATHER IS THE ARTIST @GLAM.BY.HEATHER IS THE ARTIST

Treatwell

SUSTAINABLE

We’re all being encouraged to make greener choices in our everyday lives to help protect the planet, from carrying reusable water bottles to taking our own bags to the supermarket. But have you considered what you could do to help make your salon more eco-friendly? It’s easier than you think to introduce some green initiatives, and many of them will help your bottom-line in the long run, too. 44

YOU YOUARE ARETHE THEARTIST ARTIST PULP PULPRIOT RIOTISISTHE THEPAINT PAINT @PULPRIOTHAIR @PULPRIOTHAIR

PULPRIOTHAIR.COM PULPRIOTHAIR.COM

@PULPRIOT.UK @PULPRIOT.UK

TH E C A PITA L CU T S PR I N G 2020

#1 Switch to energy efficient bulbs

AGE AGEDEFYING DEFYINGSKIN SKINCARE CARE

#2 Recycle Provide clearly labelled separate recycling bins in convenient locations and encourage your staff and clients to use them. Ask your local authority about recycling and waste services in your area, and get their advice about the best way to recycle any other packaging you use.

Offer your clients drinks in glass or china cups instead of plastic; it has the added benefit of feeling that bit more special an experience for them, too!

#4 Shop wisely

#8 Switch it off

Purchase your products in larger sizes, or use refillable options, which will also save you money. Choose products with recyclable or biodegradable packaging.

Make a green checklist for the person closing the salon at the end of the day to use to ensure all unnecessary electronic equipment and salon tools are turned off.

#5 Green energy

#9 Clean green

Reduce your carbon footprint by checking the eco-credentials of your energy suppliers. Do they generate their supply from renewable sources? If not, switch to one that does. Some providers can also conduct an energy audit of your salon to help identify specific ways you can minimise waste and make improvements.

It’s difficult to escape using chemicals when you’re running a salon, but one area where you can cut down is cleaning products. Where possible source less toxic alternatives to keep your salon looking its best — there are plenty of plant-based products on the market.

repair repair prevent prevent reverse reversesigns signsofofaging aging ■ ■

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50,000 50,000Salon SalonProfessionals Professionals ininAmerica Americause usePharmagel. Pharmagel. Best BestSelling SellingSkin SkinCare CareBrand BrandininSalon Salon Distribution DistributionininNorth NorthAmerica. America. Made MadeininUSA USA

#10 Make it a team effort

#6 Save water

We asked Steve Rowbottom, Co-Director of Westrow (@westrowhair), to share what steps his business has taken to become more sustainable; “We endeavour to ensure environmental awareness across our 10 salons and educational academy. Becoming more eco-friendly is hugely important, and at Westrow we are always looking at ways we can evolve the business to be kinder to the planet.”

#7 Go paper free These days, this is simple. For client forms use a tablet to gather and store information rather than a pen and paper, and when it comes to marketing forget the flyers and use social media or e-newsletters. Avoid printing hard copies and embrace the cloud!

#3 Ditch single use

E ASY DOES IT

Unsplash.com

Energy efficient lighting like LEDs not only use a fraction of the energy of traditional lightbulbs, they last so much longer. So while they may cost more to buy initially, you’ll soon recoup your outlay and see your energy bills reduce, too.

Switching to eco-friendly shower heads at the backwash can reduce water consumption by a third. Making it standard practice for staff to turn off the taps while they’re shampooing a client’s hair can also make a dramatic difference. Deal with any leaking pipes and taps promptly to minimise water waste.

Draw up a green policy for your salon and get all your staff involved and engaged so they understand the benefits of being a sustainable business, and how they can help. Share these aims with your clients; not only will it demonstrate that you are an environmentally responsible business, but hopefully it will inspire them too.

Product ProductBenefits Benefits Solutions Solutions forfor every every face face and and every every body body

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Non-comedogenic Non-comedogenic and and hypoallergenic hypoallergenic

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Formulas Formulas forfor allall skin skin types types && age age groups groups

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pHpH balanced balanced formulas formulas

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Focused Focused onon skin skin preservation preservation && repair repair

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Steve’s Top Eco Tips

Promotes Promotes healthy healthy skin skin at at any any age age

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1. We’ve incorporated

2. Sounds simple, but we

3. We try to turn off lights

potted plants into our salons. Not only does it look aesthetically pleasing (our clients always comment!), the oxygen green plants produce helps to balance out carbon dioxide emissions.

wait until our washing machines are full before using them. This is such an effective way to conserve energy and water, while also reducing emissions.

in any staff rooms or areas when they’re not in use. We’ve also installed dimmer switches where appropriate, and motion sensors for storage or staff areas.

NEW

England Aintree (M&S) 01515 251515 Aldershot 01252 325609 Ashford 01233 501400 Bournemouth 01202 763442 Bracknell (Eclipse) 01344 483444 Brierley Hill 01384 483338 Brighton 01273 900111 Bristol 0117 951 2222 Carlisle 01228 544134 Chelmsford 01245 280820 Chester (M&S) 01244 390844 Crawley 01293 550052 Croydon 020 8681 3815 Dagenham 020 8593 1883 Derby 01332 342228 Eastbourne 01323 508040 Gillingham 01634 365005 Harrow 020 8863 7371 Hayes 0208 573 3941 High Wycombe (Eclipse) 01494 448836 Hoddesdon 01992 440866 Hove (Local) 01273 327215 Ipswich 01473 253313 Kingston 0208 549 9058 Lee 020 8318 9421 Leeds 01132 445581 Lincoln 01522 512250 Mansfield 01623 654736 Manchester (M&S) 01618 191660 Norwich 01603 630747 Nottingham 01159 789115 Newcastle (M&S) 01914 144773 Oxford 01865 775223 Peterborough 01733 561193 Portsmouth 023 9266 0400 Slough (Eclipse) 01753 693812 Southampton 023 8055 3380 Stockport (M&S) 01614 775479 Tunbridge Wells 01892 526333 Walsall 01922 616111 Warrington (M&S) 01925 572234 Wolverhampton 01902 351515 Worthing 01903 507304

Scotland Aberdeen 01224 620430 East Kilbride 01355 232224 Edinburgh 0131 453 4300 Edinburgh East (M&S) 0131 669 9987 Glasgow 0141 552 4505 Glasgow Hillington 0141 883 8876

H II N NG G EE VV EE RRYY TT H Rep. O HIreland FF O RR Of TT H EE Limerick 00353 61294580 Dublin Nangor Rd

ENGLAND ENGLAND Aldershot01252 01252325609 325609 Aldershot Ashford01233 01233501400 501400 Ashford Bournemouth01202 01202763442 763442 Bournemouth BrierleyHill Hill01384 01384483338 483338 Brierley Brighton01273 01273900111 900111 Brighton Bristol0117 0117951 9512222 2222 Bristol Carlisle01228 01228544134 544134 Carlisle Crawley01293 01293550052 550052 Crawley Croydon0208 0208681 6813815 3815 Croydon Dagenham0208 0208593 5931883 1883 Dagenham Eastbourne01323 01323508040 508040 Eastbourne Gillingham01634 01634365005 365005 Gillingham Harrow0208 0208863 8637371 7371 Harrow Hayes0208 0208573 5733941 3941 Hayes Hoddesdon01992 01992440866 440866 Hoddesdon Hove(Local) (Local)01273 01273327215 327215 Hove Ipswich01473 01473253313 253313 Ipswich Kingston0208 0208549 5499058 9058 Kingston Lee0208 0208318 3189421 9421 Lee Norwich01603 01603630747 630747 Norwich Oxford01865 01865775223 775223 Oxford Peterborough01733 01733561193 561193 Peterborough Portsmouth023 0239266 92660400 0400 Portsmouth Southampton023 0238055 80553380 3380 Southampton TunbridgeWells Wells01892 01892526333 526333 Tunbridge Walsall 01922 616111 Walsall 616111 Learn how to use the Hii Pen: a non-invasive tool01922 that delivers Hyaluronic Acid filler into the skin by pressure, not via a hypodermic needle. Only available at Capital Hair & Beauty. Wolverhampton01902 01902351515 351515 Wolverhampton

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Worthing(Local) (Local)01903 01903507304 507304 Worthing

SCOTLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen01224 01224620430 620430 We have an extensive range of Aberdeen leading brands, as well as exclusive ones you can’t findEast anywhere else.232224 East Kilbride01355 01355 232224 Kilbride Edinburgh0131 0131453 4534300 4300 Edinburgh Glasgow0141 0141552 5524505 4505 Glasgow GlasgowHillington Hillington0141 0141883 8838876 8876 Glasgow Award winning furniture and equipment specialists, supplying NORTHERN IRELAND refits. NORTHERN IRELAND you with single pieces of equipment to complete Derry02871 02871371222 371222 Derry IBIZA IBIZA HAIR HAIR

C CA A PP II T TA A LL S ST TO OR RE E F F II N ND DE ER R

STORE STORE CONTACTS CONTACTS

S TORES

Professional since 1954 00353 14089022 Dublin Fairview 02380553380 Bandon (Salon Shop) 0035323 8820019 Cork (Salon Shop) 0035321 2428033

Northern Ireland

Belfast 02890 681538 Derry 02871 371222

Wales

Cardiff (Salon Connection) 02920 484000 Merthyr (Salon Connection) 01685 350777 Neyland (Salon Connection) 01646 600150 Swansea (Salon Connection) 01792 700800

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