SUMMER 2016
Colour Burst
- SUMMER FUN!
Complex Simplicity WE TALK BUSINESS WITH SALON OWNER KARINE JACKSON
Nailing It THE TOP NAIL TRENDS FOR THE SEASON
FREE!
TO ALL CAPITAL HAIR & BEAUTY CUSTOMERS /1
13 TIMES
Awarded best lightener
BLONDOR: OUR LIGHTENING RANGE FOR EVERY BLONDE TECHNIQUE /2
Contents
EDITOR’S LETTER
S U M M E R 2 016
Ready for Summer? Well goodness knows we all deserve a great Summer, and we’re here to help make things that little bit easier. If barbering is your thing, go straight to page 14 to find out what Wahl’s Simon Shaw, freelance stylist Ky’Cut Wilson and Harrods’ Chris Foster have to say about the top trends for 2016. Over on page 20, have a nose at what hairstylist Jason Collier gets up to, in A Week In My Shoes.
/ 09 WHAT’S NEW We’ve got some great new products for you! / 10 GET THE LOOK Two beautifully braided styles that are perfect for festival season!
10 MICHELLE THOMPSON, FRANCESCO GROUP
/ 14 MAN MADE Barber talk with Ky’Cut Wilson, Chris Foster and Simon Shaw / 20 A WEEK IN MY SHOES This issue, we talk business with Jason Collier / 22 COMPLEX SIMPLICITY We talk business and balance with Karine Jackson
Karine Jackson graced our front cover for the Spring issue – did you see that amazing blonde shot? – and this issue, we’re talking one on one with the Covent Garden-based salon owner, page 22. Keeping things inspirational, we’ve got a fab colour focus on page 34, and some great nail trend forecasts on page 28. As always, we’d love to find out what you’d like to see more of in your Capital magazine, so say hi at estrachan@capitalhb.co.uk.
/ 28 SUMMER LOVIN’ NAILS Three industry leaders and their Summer predictions
Emily
/ 34 COLOUR BURST Summer is here, and it’s time to play!
To purchase or find information on our latest products visit www.capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk
/ 38 SALON TRANSFORMATION We visit Aitch & Aitch London
ON THE COVER
34
On the cover: We fell so in love with this image by Australia’s Travis Bandiera that we’ve given him a page in our collections too! Hair: Travis Bandiera, Royals Hair Makeup: Simone and Stephanie Pettito Photography: Daniel Knott
/ 40 FOREVER SUMMER Sign up for the courses guaranteed to get your clients Summer-ready / 44 THE COLLECTIONS Two cracking collections that we’re totally obsessed with RUSH ART TEAM
TRAVIS BANDIERA, ROYALS HAIR
/ 07 CAPITAL NEWS What’s happening in our world
facebook.com/capitalhairandbeauty
/ 48 STORE FINDER Where to find your nearest Capital store!
instagram.com/capitalhair
Publisher: Charisse Kenion Ltd | info@charissekenion.com | charissekenion.com Designer: Sophie Middleton
@capitalhair
pinterest.com/capitalhair
NOTE: The views expressed in Capital Hair and Beauty magazine do not necessarily represent those of the publisher. Charisse Kenion Ltd does not accept any responsibility for the loss or damage of material submitted for publication. Reproduction of any material without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.
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BLONDOR MÈCHES
FIND OUT HOW TO ACHIEVE THIS LOOK ON OUR WEBSITE WWW.CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUTY.CO.UK
BEFORE Natural colour: 6/0 Colour in mid-lengths and ends: 10/03 Condition: Highlights Colour placement:
diamond
Colour A: Blondor Mèches + Welloxon Perfect 9 % Colour B: Koleston Perfect Special Blonde 12/03 + Welloxon Perfect 9 % Colour C: ILLUMINA COLOR 9/69 + Welloxon Perfect Pastel
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SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR RANGE
AMMONIA FREE formulation* for GENTLE COLOUR results and HIGH SHINE
UP TO
SEE IN STORE FOR OFFERS /5 *Color Touch, Color Touch Sunlights (except Sunlight/0) and Color Touch Relights
COOL BLONDE COLLECTION
INTRODUCING THE NEW COOL BLONDE COLLECTION FROM GOLDWELL Goldwell’s Cool Blonde Collection stands for a blonde which is cooler and clearer than ever before – the kind of blonde that clients want right now … Gone are the brassy blondes and yellow highlights – this season, it’s all about the cool. Whether it’s subtly shaded, elegant or completely natural, the Cool Blonde Collection offers eight new blonde shades with wonderfully cool and multi-faceted effects which
COOL AND TRENDY: NEW TOPCHIC SPECIAL LIFT SHADES
11PB
PEARL BEIGE
11SN
SILVER NATURAL
RIGHT IN VOGUE: NEW TOPCHIC & COLORANCE SHADES
are made possible through four shading techniques. Natural shading creates the ultimate blonde bohemian bleach look which is care-free, and sun-kissed. This technique is perfect for hair below the shoulders and is great for clients looking for that natural blonde look. Multi-shading technique creates a seamless interaction of gentle colours and intensive shading for an even cooler blonde - the perfect way to achieve a sophisticated look with cool elegance.
8CA
COOL ASH
9MB
JADE BLONDE
AS COOL AS EVER: NEW COLORANCE EXPRESS TONING SHADES
Soft shading conjures up incredibly smooth dimensions and subtle shadows. This technique creates a casual, lived in look which perfectly highlights ice-cold blonde nuances. Deep shading creates a smooth transition of cool brown and blonde nuances which melt into one another. This technique unites the elegance of brown with the sexiness of blonde, creating a wonderfully bronzed, feminine look.
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9 ICY
10 ICY
C A P I TA L
news
YO U R G U I D E TO W H AT ’ S H A PPE N I N G I N - STO R E A N D W H AT ’ S N E X T…
WHAT’S NEW IN NOTTINGHAM? We’re delighted to announce the opening of a brand new, bigger and better store, in Nottingham! We’ve moved out of our former premises and can now offer an even bigger range of stock, and free parking. Be sure to come in to meet the team – we’ve still got the same great staff members, ready and waiting to assist you with all your professional hair and beauty needs.
THE SPLIT-ENDER PRO REVOLUTION Sometimes, a product comes along that doesn’t need any kind of marketing hype; the results speak for themselves, and suddenly, everyone is crying out for this new product. The Split-Ender Pro is one of these products. We launched the product in our stores because we believed in the results, and now dozens of our customers are telling us that they are just as convinced! In this day and age, reviews mean everything, so it’s been great to see numerous clients taking to Twitter, Facebook and Instagram to not only tell us about their amazing results, but also show us. Here are just some of the new Split-Ender Pro fans and what they had to say. We hope you’ll join them on your next trip to your local Capital store!
FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA facebook.com/capitalhairandbeauty
@capitalhair
instagram.com/capitalhair
pinterest.com/capitalhair
Visit our blog at www.capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/blog
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MADE TO CREATE GET THE LOOK Scan to download the Essential Looks App http://www.schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk/ skp/uk/en/home/trends/el-app.html
For more information call 0800 526741
Find us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/schwarzkopfprofessionalunitedkingdom /8
www.schwarzkopfpro.com
W H AT ’ S
new
C A PITA L H A I R & B E AUT Y GO E S A LL O UT TO B RI N G YO U TH E L ATE ST, A N D G R E ATE ST PRO D U C T S TO BOOST YO U R B U S I N E S S .
HIT THE BEACH
TIGI has a brand new range of products to ensure your clients are ready for a Summer they won’t forget! First up there’s the Totally Beachin’ Cleansing Jelly Shampoo, a jelly textured cleanser that rids hair of build-up that comes via products, as well as sweat, sea and sand. Super moisturising, it also smells like a tropical cocktail! There’s also the Totally Beachin’ Mellow After-Sun Conditioner to restore moisture and repair tired strands – even after two weeks of swimming and sunbathing – as well as a fab protection spray, Beach Bound, for coloured hair. Finally, there’s the brilliant Beach Freak Moisturising Detangler Spray, which is a Godsend for those with less well-behaved curls! A great travel product, your clients can just spritz on and hair will feel instantly hydrated and easier to manage.
WAX ON
Now is the time that even the laziest of clients will be coming in for a waxing appointment, so make sure you’re well stocked up on Looks Very Berry Wax! One of the most efficient waxes around, Looks Wax leaves no wax residue and won’t leave the skin feeling sensitised.
Totally Beachin’ Cleansing Jelly Shampoo £6.45/€8.10 Totally Beachin’ Mellow After Sun Conditioner £7.25/€9.10 Beach Bound Protection Spray for Coloured Hair £7.95/€10.00 Beach Freak Moisturising Detangler Spray £7.95/€10.00
A FLORAL TREAT
£5.25/€5.49
INTENSE
You’ve probably heard about High Intensity Training if you’re a regular gym goer, but now tanning brand Sienna X is bringing that concept to your client’s next tan. High Intensity Tanning Express Tan is all about delivering superior results, fast. There’s that same Sienna X fragrance, plus anti-ageing Q10, Vitamin E, Aloe Vera and avocado extract, making for one brilliant, moisturising formula that gives golden results in under one hour. High Intensity Express Tan 200ml £12.48/€15.65 High Intensity Express Tan 250ml £15.95/€20.00 High Intensity Express Tan Litre £49.95/€62.65
TAKE FLIGHT!
Get all the benefits of the incredible Uniq One Treatment but with a brand new amazing fragrance! Unique One Lotus Flower Hair Treatment offers 10 main benefits that will rejuvenate any and every hair type. Apply this to your client’s hair once and they will be addicted to the results it offers, which include heat protection, frizz control, volumising, detangling, split end prevention and so much more! £7.15/€8.95
Get ready for the hottest Summer shades collection from Gellux; the Feel the Vibe range is a gorgeous selection of shades that work great alone but will give stunning results for clients wanting a bit of exotic nail art too. Inspired by the Olympic celebrations in Brazil, there are six shades in the new collection – our faves are Glam It Up, a sultry coral tone that will look amazing with a tan, and also the super bright Beach Party, a hot pink that that will ensure your clients stand out for all the right reasons. £11.95 each/€14.98 each
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C A P I TA L S T Y L E
get THE
look
IT ’ S TH AT TI M E O F Y E A R W H E N C L I E NT S STA RT TH I N K I N G A BO UT F E S TI VA L H A I R , A N D, I N R EC E NT Y E A R S , B R A I D E D ST Y L E S H AV E B ECO M E TH E G O -TO WAY TO LOO K G OO D F O R LO N G E R . H E R E W E B R E A K DOW N T WO LOO K S ; TH E F I R ST BY M I A D E L L I CO M PAG N I O F S C I S SO R S , TH E S ECO N D BY F R A N C E S CO G RO U P ’ S M I C H E L L E TH O M P SO N , W H O’ S A L SO G R A B B E D H E R S E L F A PAG E I N O U R CO L L EC TI O N S S EC TI O N !
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GET THE LOOK ‘This look is perfect for the summer months,’ says Mia. It’s a great way to keep hair off the face for clients on holiday and can be taken from day to night.
Once both sections have been plaited, lift both sections towards the front of the head. Remove the bobbles and secure with bobby pins.
First, dry hair into a middle parting and split the hair into two sections. Taking the first section, plait this to the end and secure with a hair bobble. Take the loose section on the opposite side of the head and repeat.
Once hair is secured, loosely pull sections out of the plait, to create a more textured and relaxed look. Finish with strong hold spray.
1 Avec IQ Super Gel Spray 250ml £3.95/€4.95 | 2 Parlux 3200 Compact Dryer 1900w Black £67.50/€79.00 | 3 Scunci Polyband Hair Elastics Pk75 Clear £1.95/€2.45 | 4 Hair Tools Waved Grips 2 inch Pk500 (Available in Black, Blonde and Brown) £6.15/€7.49
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C A P I TA L S T Y L E
GET THE LOOK Michelle Thompson says this is a great way to play with afro hair! First, prep the hair with a silky volumising mousse, then part hair into a diagonal style, taking the parting from the front left to the back right, and dry using a large barrel brush, with loads of volume directed at the roots.
Braid hair to the back of the nape of the neck and secure with a bobby pin. Complete the above steps for the loose section of hair on the opposite side. Once both sides have been braided, take your tail comb and create the illusion of the lines as seen in the image.
Taking three 1cm strands, braid the hair towards the height of the hair, ensuring hair is no larger than a 1.5cm width.
1 Head Jog Ceramic Ionic Pink Radial 80 Brush (60mm) £3.60/€4.50 | 2 Head-Gear Section Clips Plastic /Metal Black x12 £1.55/€1.95 | 3 Wella Professionals EIMI Extra Volume 500ml £8.80/€11.00 4 Head Jog 202 Tail Comb Pink 80p/€1.00 | 5 Schwarzkopf Silhouette Super Hold Hairspray 750ml £4.15/€5.25
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C A P I TA L M E N
made MAN
IMAGE TAKEN FROM SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL’S ESSENTIAL LOOKS
M E N ’ S H A I R D R E S S I N G I S H E A D E D FO R N E W H E I G HT S I N 2 016 . A LL BO U N DA RI E S A R E GO N E A S E V E RY D I F F E R E NT T Y PE O F C LI E NT I S E M B R AC I N G TH E I N D I V I D UA LIT Y TH AT E X PE RI M E NTI N G W ITH TH E I R H A I R O F F E R S . H E R E W E S PE A K TO BA R B E R E X PE RT S A N D C R E ATI V E S S I M O N S H AW, O F WA H L , K Y ’C UT W I L SO N A N D C H RI S FOSTE R .
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CHRIS FOSTER Creative Director at The Refinery and Harrods Barbership and owner at FOSS Academy Hair: Chris Foster | Photography: Arteh Odjidja | Styling: Remel Davidson | Makeup: Sarah O’Keefe Describe your individual aesthetic when it comes to men’s hair. My aesthetic when it comes to men’s hair speaks of a diversity Chris Foster of cultures where each hairstyle acts as a testament to creative energy. My personal mantra is ‘innovate or die!’ What is the cut that every barber should have in his arsenal? For me is there is not one particular haircut barbers should know but they should have
technical excellence in all key areas of barbering. The look for 2016? The fade continues to be a massive trend; it is the quintessential masculine look to have the hair shorter on the back and sides and longer on the top. The fade adds a new dimension. There are different types of fades; the skin fade, the drop fade, the temple fade and the high and tight military fade. After this trend I can definitely see men’s hair getting longer through the back and sides and moving towards a more retrospective ‘90s feel.
What about men’s colour? There has been a big decrease in fashion colours for men. When I started in the ‘90s, men were using creative colouring techniques but recently they’re opting for things like removing grey rather than being creative with colour. Who are the men in the public eye that your customers are influenced by? David Beckham, without a shadow of a doubt, has been a massive influence. Any trend you’d like to see the back of? No, every trend has its time and place.
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C A P I TA L M E N
SIMON SHAW European Artistic Director for Wahl
Simon Shaw
On defining your own aesthetic… Have good equipment, create strong shapes and use strong lines. Any style can work if you work from that.
The look for 2016?. Fringes – or bangs – are going to be big this year. Are men learning more about how to take care of their hair in between salon visits? For the last three to four years men have become increasingly clued-up on the maintenance of their styles.
What about men’s colour? I think colour work is important in all hair work, but men are right up there with fashion and covering grey. Who are the men in the public eye that your customers are influenced by? Footballers, pop stars, TV stars and top barbers set the trends. Any trend you’d like to see the back of? Pompadours are on their way out – about time too!
Hair: Chris Foster | Photography and styling: Arteh Odjidja | Makeup: Sarah O’keefe
What is the cut that every barber should have in his arsenal? Every barber should be open-minded and use everything in their arsenal.
Being able to handle their clippers around a fade does help!
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KY’CUT WILSON Freelance Hairstylist Hair: Ky’Cut Wilson | Photography: Sonny McCartney | Model: Nick Radley, AMCK Describe your individual aesthetic when it comes to men’s hair. Attention to detail is key; tailoring a man’s haircut to suit Ky’Cut Wilson his own lifestyle. It’s about adapting the trends, not just mimicking styles found on social media, and incorporating the fundamentals of barber skills for a modern approach. What’s the cut that every barber should have in his arsenal? It’s not necessarily just one cut, but one technique. Mastering scissor over comb is a must for me when learning the skills to become a sought-after barber.
The look of 2016? Men’s hair is becoming a lot softer in its overall appearance: lots of texture and a lot more length. Are men learning more about how to take care of their hair in between salon visits? Absolutely, most of my clients visit every two weeks for a neck line shape up, alternating this with a full haircut. The amount of male grooming products on the market now is overwhelming, so the current gentlemen of the world are spoilt for choice with home styling. What about men’s colour? Men’s colour to me is always a compliment to any haircut, but only when using the correct product and shade. Generally staying with
cooler tones, then if it’s to cover grey hair always a soft camouflage, never a full cover to compete with their son’s Lego figures! Who are the men in the public eye that your customers are influenced by? David Beckham is a big contender for influencing the male population of what hair trends to follow. A big favourite of mine is Alex Turner of the Arctic Monkeys, with his rockabilly vibe. Most of my clients easily find their own inspiration on the many social media platforms. It’s up to us as barbers to advise and set our own trends. Any trend you’d like to see the back of? The skin fade, slicked back with the overgrown beard has well and truly overstayed its welcome.
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C A P I TA L L E A R N I N G
A WEEK IN
my shoes J A SO N CO LLI E R STA RTE D H I S H A I R D R E S S I N G C A R E E R A S A 14 Y E A R O LD SATU R DAY BOY, BAC K I N C A R D I F F. TO DAY H E CO U NT S TH E LI K E S O F V I C TO RI A B EC K H A M A N D S I E N N A M I LLE R A M O N G ST H I S I NTE R N ATI O N A L C LI E NT S , SO W E TH O U G HT W E ’ D H AV E A N OS E I NTO A W E E K W ITH TH E S M OOTH YO U A RTI STI C D I R EC TO R !
ABOUT JASON Qualifications: Leaving Cardiff in 2001 to fully submerge myself in the industry, I began at Cobella. I worked my way up and designed a training program that took young students from first level training through to a Level 3 qualification. While developing this programme, I worked alongside the brand’s namesake, Anestis Cobella, learning and developing my own skills in both hairdressing and business. Location: I am the Artistic Director at Smooth You Town Spa in Dalston, and live in London with my husband Roy. Years in the business: 13 Twitter and Instagram: @JasoncollierJC Jason working his magic on Chloe Jasmine
S JASON’ : A DVICE
lf and in yourse thing e v e li e b Always b – ever y down a jo omes for free rn tu r e v gc ne ce. Nothin and forget that n e ri e p x is e work st in pared to so be pre d ‘no’ exists. Inve ur r o for yo the w produc ts t ty li a u q den go o d tay confi kit and s d te va . and moti
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MONDAY
TUESDAY
It’s a 6am wake-up call. I arrived in Tuscany last night and decide to go for a 7am run along the Arno River. I’m then picked up and driven to Milan in preparation for a hair show. I arrive at 10am and start prepping models for a 3pm show. At 2:30pm, the usual last half hour rush before the show kicks in. The show is a great success and at 4:30pm once it finishes, I head quickly back to the airport to catch my flight home to London.
I start with a 6am visit to the gym to work off yesterday’s pasta! At 7am I dash across to West London for a morning blowdry with one of my VIP clients – but I can’t tell you who! Time for a quick stop off for Starbucks, then another personal client appointment. This time it’s with Nicola Stapleton to get her ready for the film she’s about to shoot. Lunch, then an afternoon of creating step by step videos for my YouTube channel, with my favourite girl Sophie, who handles the
IMAGERY SUPPLIED
salon’s social media. This week we’re focusing on recreating the top looks from the Oscars – we choose to recreate Olivia Wilde’s braid and Lady Gaga’s curls.
WEDNESDAY Finally, I don’t need to set the alarm so I wake up at 8am and have breakfast with my husband before a 10am meeting with photographer Debbie Clark. It’s about our exhibition to raise money for under privileged children. I arrive at the Smooth You Town Spa salon around 1pm to present a colour course, and spend the rest of the day working with clients.
THURSDAY This time it’s a 5:45am wake-up call to hit the gym with my husband for an hours work out before heading home. After a change of
clothes, I head over to Waterloo for 9am for a screen test for a new makeover series on Channel 5.
Then it’s back to the salon for 11am to continue filming another TV series, Sugarbabes, including celebrity Chloe Jasmine. After a full day of filming, I head out to meet friends for pizza and wine.
SATURDAY Another 7am wake-up call – no rest for the wicked! I head over to Soho for a 9:45am briefing with designer Julien MacDonald. It’s London Fashion Week and I’m assisting Syd Hayes, backstage. It’s two hours of craziness, prepping the models for the midday show. As soon as the show finishes, we head straight over to Kings Cross for the next show. This time it’s Emilia Wickstead and and we go straight into preparing models for the 3pm show. After the finale, it’s straight home for a date night with the husband.
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Complex
SIMPLICITY
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ALL IMAGERY COURTESY OF KARINE JACKSON
C A P I TA L I C O N S
K A R I N E J AC K SO N ’ S COV E NT G A R D E N SA LO N I S A M A J O R PL AY E R I N LO N D O N . K N OW N F O R H E R E Y EC ATC H I N G CO L L EC TI O N S – O N E O F H E R I M AG E S G R AC E D O U R S PR I N G COV E R – AWA R D -W I N N I N G K A R I N E I S A L L A BO UT AT TE NTI O N TO D E TA I L , A N D TH O RO U G H LY C R E ATI V E CO LO U R TH AT ’ S ECO - F R I E N D LY. H E R E , AU STR A L I A N - BO R N K A R I N E TA L K S A BO U T W H AT M A K E S H E R TI C K CO M E CO L L EC TI O N S TI M E , A N D H OW S H E B A L A N C E S B U S I N E S S , I N S PI R ATI O N A N D L I F E .
In the business for how long? It’s been 13 years since I opened my own salon. Can you remember your first job? It was really awful! All I wanted was to earn my own money, so at 13 I went to every business in the area. I finally got a job at a petrol station, filling old fashioned oil jars for cars. I had a really creepy boss so I only lasted two months! I finally found a job in a salon and never looked back. Karine Jackson
Is it a challenge to balance the business with the creative? Yes, the team and business have to come first. I’m really good at time management so I allocate time for every aspect of the business. Entering awards makes sure you stay on top of how you run your business and what creative input there will be.
Do you ever have doubts? Every day, about one thing or another. Have I handled that situation correctly? Is this the right business decision? Is this look going to work? However, if you don’t have doubts, how do you challenge yourself?
Industry awards – are they needed? I think they’re a fantastic tool as they can make you think about your business, while encouraging you to work creatively. They’re also a great PR tool; with so many salons in London you need to stay ahead of the game, so winning awards can really boost your salon’s profile – driving more business into the salon as well as giving the team an extra boost.
Do you ever have bad days at work? I would love to say ‘no,’ but that would be a big fat lie! Running a team will always create challenges and you can’t always keep your eye on everything. Living in an ‘instant’ world this has become challenging. Noone is perfect but with clients we need to be; a member of staff off sick, a late client, someone who’s unhappy with their hair, plus a bad review, can equal an incredibly bad day. /23
C A P I TA L I C O N S What motivates you? I have been hairdressing since I was 15 and I love it. I like the challenges of running a salon – every day is different. How do you start prepping for a new collection? I am currently in the midst of putting my collection together as we speak. I start with one look I like – which could come from anywhere. I work with a great team and their input is incredibly important. I then create eight moodboards: this is a long process and quite often each moodboard starts one way and then the whole shoot could take another direction, because I’ve seen something else. I’m looking at film, art, fashion and what the rest of the world is doing with hair, and I’m always looking to see how we can move hair on.
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Do you think it’s important to keep learning the latest techniques/trends? Yes: the minute you stop learning you may as well give up. There is always someone else coming up with a great idea. I love listening to my younger team members as they have so much passion. Is there a typical day in your life? Every morning I walk through the Common for half an hour; I love this as I get to listen to music and daydream as I walk to the Tube. I really enjoy my Tube ride into work as it’s 20 minutes of reading whatever I want. Then, when I get into the salon, I always start with a bit of book work, answering emails, looking at the day in the salon. Then I could be teaching, off to a shoot or doing clients. I normally finish quite late, so I’ll catch up with friends after work – it keeps me grounded. Most useful piece of advice? If you don’t have bad days, how do you know what a good day is? What’s coming next for you and your brand? Watch this space! Lots of exciting things coming up, but I can’t say too much – yet.
ALL IMAGERY COURTESY OF KARINE JACKSON
Best accomplishment so far in your career? There have been so many so far; I think building my team and watching them do well has to be one of the best. Looking around a busy buzzing salon makes me really proud.
Next Must-Haves in Salon? Ride the NUDE MEGA-TREND with
NEW
BLUSH NUDES
Redefining the classical natural colours, Indola introduces 5 permanent nude shades enhanced with subtle beige undertones – for versatile reflexes of ultra-natural colour!
1000.38 Blonde Expert High Lifting Gold Chocolate
9.38 Very Light Blonde Gold Chocolate
7.38 Medium Blonde Gold Chocolate
6.38 Dark Blonde Gold Chocolate
4.38 Medium Brown Gold Chocolate
www.indola.smart-elearning.com When you register use security code: 007
www.indola.com/uk
Find us on Facebook: Indola Exclusively Professional UK & IRE
Think smart, think Indola./ 2 5
C A P I TA L I C O N S
KARINE’S SUMMER 2016 COLOUR PREDICTIONS
Mesh colour and patterned hair is also going to be big for 2016. It’s all about the contrast in the colours. We don’t work with shades anymore as everyone’s skin tone is different – it’s more about playing with technique. /26
ALL IMAGERY COURTESY OF KARINE JACKSON
Bold colour is here, so watch out for a resurgence in under colour. This means adding a relatively natural colour on top with an underneath lining of bright colour.
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SHOT BY DENNIS PERDERSON FOR STYLIST MAGAZINE
C A P I TA L T R E N D S
Summer LOVIN ’ NAIL S
PHOTOGRAPH BY DIANA GOMEZ
M O R E A N D M O R E WO M E N A R E PAY I N G AT TE NTI O N TO TH E I R N A I L S , A N D S U M M E R I S A G R E AT TI M E TO G E T E V E N TH E M O S T N A I L A RT- S H Y C L I E NT O N BOA R D. H E R E W E TA L K TR E N D S W ITH I N D U STRY – A N D C E L E B R IT Y FAV E – S TE PH A N I E S TAU NTO N , SA LO N S YSTE M ’ S R AC H E L G R I B B L E A N D F R E E L A N C E N A I L TEC H J U L I E - A N N E L A R I V I É R E , A N D S I N F U L N A I L S ’ K ATE C AVA N .
Stephanie Staunton is a celebrity manicurist who has worked on major movies, as well as major stars, including Scarlett Johansson and Rita Ora. If you had to pick just one shade to apply to every client’s nails for Summer, what would it be? Has to be white for me; it’s a favourite and was seen at the Burberry, Chanel and Kristian Aadnevik shows. It also looks on point with a tan. If it fades, lightly use a buffer to take the shine off and re-apply top coat. I love a lilac tinted topcoat over white. Top 3 nail art looks for the season? 1. I’ve been loving a matte topcoat over the last few months; it looks great over brights or try it over a dark metallic colour, as it gives a deep, satin, luxurious feel to it.
2. Glitter! I’m a huge fan of sparkle. It’s simple and effective, so have a play around. Lecenté do the best glitters ever; they aren’t dulled by topcoats. 3. I’ve been doing a lot of brush mark manicures, where you paint the nail a base colour, then choose a few other polishes that will show up, and wipe almost all of the colour off the brush, then just randomly place and drag across the dry painted nail. Repeat this with your other colours. It creates an arty, eye-catching look and leaves clients festival ready. It’s easy for beginners too.
For clients who don’t pay too much attention to their nails, what’s the absolute minimum they should be doing to take care of them? Using cuticle oil twice a day. So quick, yet the benefits are amazing. Also Boots do tablets called Skin, Hair and Nails. I swear by it.* One a day keeps the breakage away. Product you can’t live without? OPI’s Matte Top Coat is my go-to. *Check with GP
STEPHANIE STAUNTON IS REPRESENTED BY CAROLHAYESMANAGEMENT.CO.UK /29
C A P I TA L T R E N D S
Julie-Anne Lariviére shared a whole working week with us last issue; this issue she’s talking Summer trends. What’s the shade of the season? Turquoise. Top 3 nail art looks for Summer? I’m liking the more subtle coloured tip French manicure; simple stripes (horizontal or vertical) and geometrical nail designs. For clients who don’t pay much attention to their nails, what’s the absolute minimum they should be doing to take care of them? Using cuticle oil! It will keep the skin around the nails hydrated so they grow healthy. Product you can’t live without? Gel polish!
Salon System’s educator and nail expert, Rachel Gribble talks us through her Summer Nail forecast. This Summer we will see a lot more rainbow colours. Pops of colour are really fun and there is so much you can do with it in terms of nail art. We’ll see plays on the classic French manicure, by painting a glitter tip or using nudes. Nail art will take on a more sophisticated mood, making it more suitable for all types of styles and ages. The ever-popular ombré and negative space designs will still be popular, as will nudes and natural tones. We’ll see more rose gold and pastel shades. Marshmallow and Parma Violets from GELLUX’s Sweet Treats collection are very close matches to Pantone’s colours of the year! Kate Cavan, of Sinful Nails, has just launched a brand new Summer range of colours – in-store now! If you had to pick one shade to apply to every client’s nails for Summer, what would you choose? You can’t go wrong with a classic bright shade for Summer – something that really sets off a sunkissed tan. Bright fuschia pink is always a great choice, however coral hues are becoming more and more popular as they suit every skin tone. Top 3 nail art looks for the season? Pearlescent and metallic finishes were huge on the SS16 catwalks, and they’re perfect for wedding season too.
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French Manicure with a twist; the negative space manicure is proving it’s here to stay, don’t be afraid to choose colours that contrast for a real statement look. Matching nails with eyes or lips, so a bright red lip with red nails, for example. Major fashion houses were seen matching their models’ eyeshadow to their nails on the SS16 catwalks. Product you can’t live without? Sinful PROshine Protect – our hardwearing top coat has a super shine finish that lasts for five to seven days without dulling.
Tell us about the inspiration behind the new Sinful shades. The intense, vibrant colours of carnival inspired our new Summer collection. Each one of the limited edition shades has a high pigmentation, which gives ultimate coverage on the nail. I’m really excited to launch the shade Toxic, as we’ve never had a shade like it before, and turquoise hues are set to be big this Summer.
GLOSSY COLOUR FEEL THE VIBE COLLECTION
Glam it up with our new hot summer shades. Gellux 30 second gel polish have the answer to up to 15 days of no chip, no wear, no wait colour.
AVAILABLE AT CAPITAL HAIR & BEAUTY
www.salonsystem.com
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SHOT BY DENNIS PERDERSON FOR STYLIST MAGAZINE
C A P I TA L T R E N D S
We’ve given you the trends and tips from the experts, now, how about a little bit of shopping? Here are our top picks for Summer nails. They say red and green should never be seen, but for Summer, there are no rules when it comes to creating stand-out styles! Play with reverse French manicures and negative space nail art by mixing neons with bold primary tones.
Gellux Rainforest £11.95/€14.98
Gellux Summer Lovin’ from the new Feel the Vibe Summer collection £11.95/€14.98
Crawfishin for a Compliment is the perfect, pinky orange tone that will look amazing against a deep tan and even the palest of hands! Play around with cool metallics when it comes to this shade; silver, gold and even a blushed rose gold could make for a beautiful bridal look.
Capital Superfine Files Black Pk8 £1.85/€2.35 /32
OPI Crawfishin For A Compliment from the New Orleans collection £5.00/€6.00 (lacquer) £14.95/€18.75 (gelcolor)
OPI Nail Envy Original £9.10/€11.22 For weak, damaged nails. Strengthens with wheat protein and calcium. For harder, longer, stronger nails to envy!
OPI Rich Girls and Po-Boys from the New Orleans collection £5.00/€6.00 (lacquer) £14.95/€18.75 (gelcolor)
IBD
Why do you love IBD? It's a really great gel to work with and there are so many fabulous colours! What’s your favourite nail look? Well structured nail enhancements with some Just Gel Polish nail art of course! I love how versatile jgp and the gel art kit are to create anything from simple, clean designs to hand painted masterpieces. Do you have any top tips when using IBD Just Gel Polish? Keep it thin, always cap and make sure that the clients’ hands are on the lamp correctly for the best cure and long wear. What is your favourite shade of Just Gel Polish? It has to be Sargasso Sea. What was it like meeting the global AII team recently in Los Angeles? (AII is American International Industries, the company that owns IBD.) We were shown what's been happening the past year with IBD and what is coming from the brand in 2016 - all every exciting! On a practical side we went over the signature ibd sculptured nail and had fun doing advanced nail art with IBD’s just gel polish and LED builder gels. I picked up some great techniques and cannot wait to inspire my students with them!
H E R E , I B D’ S I NTE R N ATI O N A L E L ITE E D U C ATO R J E S S I C A M A R K S TA L K S , TR E N D S , TEC H N I Q U E S A N D W H Y I B D I S A N A I L B R A N D YO U S H O U L D B E WO R K I N G W ITH .
On the last day of the training we were all tested to see where we can improve on in all aspects of education with regards to product knowledge, technical ability, artistic ability and presentation skills. Product top tips! When using IBD jgp the first thing I would always recommend is to get mixing, make sure your jgp colours are well mixed stirring with a stirrer before use.
P RO M OT I O N A L F E AT U R E
ALL ABOUT
#1
When sculpting, really work on getting your form fit right as this will be what can change the whole structure and look of a nail. Don't be afraid of nail art; you may not be an artist but with the easy to learn techniques we teach on our gel art and design course you can create a range of different designs and looks and earn some extra pennies along the way too.
#2
Changing up colours and using different combinations can really enhance a design or effect so don't be scared to have a play. It's amazing how many mistakes turn into the best designs, so have fun and remember if you are willing to have a go you can achieve anything! What’s your favourite IBD product? It has to be the just gel polish range; pure gels with so many possibilities as well as the vast range of colours and how long it lasts on clients nails.
#3
JESSICA’S ADVICE FOR NAIL TECHS Never stop your education journey. I’ve been in the industry for just over 19 years and still strive to improve my skills. I don’t think I’d have reached an international level or won competitions without good education and support. Do not give up easily; business can be hard if you’re on your own. We have set up an IBD nail education forum on Facebook to back up IBD education and to help all ibd techs after their training to inspire, mentor and support them andhelp their businesses and confidence grow. /33
RUSH ART TEAM
C A P I TA L C O LO U R
Colour BURST!
TH E R E ’ S N OTH I N G Q U ITE LI K E A CO LO U R C H A N G E TO G E T C LI E NT S S U M M E R- R E A DY. R E A D O N TO F I N D O UT W H AT TH E B E ST I N TH E B U S I N E S S H AV E TO SAY A BO UT TH I S S E A SO N ’ S TR E N D S I N CO LO U R A N D TEC H N I Q U E .
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KIERAN TUDOR, D&J AMBROSE D&J AMBROSE
Summer is all about sun, saltwater and swimming, but these can all ruin your clients’ colour, so I always advise them to use a shampoo and conditioner that has added UV protection which will help reduce the sun bleaching out the colour. A leave-in conditioner will also provide a protective barrier for the hair, keeping colour vibrant and the hair hydrated. Mark Leeson Blonde is always a favourite colour for Summer; it’s bright and fresh, but this year blondes are going one step further. There’s a definite lean towards more rosy tints and soft peach hues blended with natural blonde tones. The crazy colour trend is also hot right now, but for Summer the looks are being toned down to more gentle and subtle hues. Robert Eaton, Russell Eaton There’s a growing trend and focus on all-things freehand; we are seeing clever amalgamation of this more artistic approach with classic hair foiling, which allows for the longevity of highlight effects with added focus and extra embellishment. This new approach sees surprising combos of colours, which in turn optically allude to weight, volume and dimension as and when required.
There’s also a trend towards using alternatives to the humble tint brush. More and more we’re seeing applications that use a whole plethora of styling tools in the colour department, ranging from ultra thin barbering combs right through to blowdrying styling paddle brushes. Mark Creed, Idlewild Hairdressing For clients who like to see themselves as ‘statement-makers’, let’s go to the dark side with warm black. Deep, dark, rich blacks or dark brunettes are all the rage. Mix this with blunt fringes and make eyes pop! Jenni Tarrant and Amber Rigg, Bond Hair Religion, Australis
Bright, fire engine red has been transformed into a natural and deeper version; we are also seeing golds and copper tones being added into our reds to give a multi-dimensional finish to the colour. Travis Bandiera, Royals Hair, Australia, on Summer reds
ALL ABOUT THE CONTOUR
Brunettes are set to be deep - think chocolate and espresso shades good enough to eat! Again, add in subtle pieces of ‘hair strobing’ to really enhance features.
Natural coppers are also set to be huge this summer. From lighter, strawberry blondes and rose golds to darker auburns, there are many beautiful, reflective, intense coppers to choose from. It's important to use the correct colour-enhancing shampoos and conditioners to maintain that copper vibrancy. Emily Warne, Headromance
FRANCESCO GROUP
Contouring will be a big hit for Summer 2016; it's all about the enhancement of face shapes, bringing out the best features and playing down the areas that clients want to hide. By lightening and darkening pieces of hair around the face you can create the appearance of different shapes, soften harsh angles or create sharper features. Darker shades hide and blend areas, whereas lighter shades highlight areas, drawing the eye towards them. For example, a triangular face shape, with a very narrow chin, can be darkened through the top of the hair, with lighter pieces added to the jawline, to make it appear wider. Someone with a narrow face shape can be given darker roots, with fine, lighter pieces added around the face, to give the appearance of a fuller face. Jenny Pelter, Westrow Street Lane
A lot of grey tones and pastels are still ontrend but they are being adapted with the use of new placement and techniques that keeps them current. These trends are not just for the younger clients either. For more mature clients the pastel colour trends can also work well. Play with adding thread lights and shadows of tone to soften facial features and add warmth. Hair contouring can also brighten, lift and enhance features, by blending two to three colours around the face. Summer blondes are back but it’s time to say ‘goodbye’ to bleached white blondes and ‘hello’ to sunkissed golds. Blondes with more rosy and lemony tones are the perfect way to add a Summer boost. Tracey Devine The ombré look is still huge, but it's so subtle and blended now. Think colours that melt seamlessly together. Handpaint the mid lengths and ends with a shade that naturally bleeds out of the natural hair. Mark Leeson /35
TREVOR SORBIE
RUSH
NEIL BARTON
Alyse Santry, Senior Stylist and Expert Colourist at Kinky Curly Straight, Australia, gives us the lowdown on her two fave colour trends for Summer 2016. BOND HAIR RELIGION
C A P I TA L C O LO U R
TREND ALERT!
TASHA STEVENS, JAMIE STEVENS
In previous seasons we saw a lot of bright pinks/purples/greens, and while these looks are still very much on-trend, they have been toned down. Where once we saw bright, almost highlighter pink hair, we are seeing a much softer pastel version. Sheer pops of pastel, muted pink hidden in the layers or peeking out of a fringe is where this trend is headed. Incorporating a few colour pops is also very popular. Keeping the colours pale and soft, similar to what you would see on an opal, is the key to nailing this look.
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STROBING
Similar to our ever-so-popular balayage, this technique involves bold, bright placement of blonde. The idea is to work with the natural shade but take it a few levels lighter as to contour and complement the face. This gives a much more youthful, softer finish. Like balayage again, this technique emulates the sun by brightening up the hair around the face and giving the ends that sunkissed feel.
JOHANNA CREE BROWN, TREVOR SORBIE
TASHA STEVENS, JAMIE STEVENS ROYSTON BLYTHE AND CHARLES DOUEK, ROYSTON BLYTHE
CHERIE FALCO, KINKY CURLY STRAIGHT
JOHANNA CREE BROWN, TREVOR SORBIE
Blue is definitely the new grey. The new colour everyone is after is denim blue. Think of jeans and the variations in blue they have to offer.
SCHWARZKOPF ESSENTIAL LOOKS
BRIGHTS
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high quality
IMAGERY THROUGHOUT: BILLY CLANCY AT KLINICAL LTD
C A P I TA L I N T E R I O R S
HIGH STYLE,
R EC E NTLY, J A M E S H A LL A H A N , OW N E R A N D D I R EC TO R O F A ITC H & A ITC H LO N DO N , C A M E TO C A PITA L TO M A K E TH E V I S I O N FO R H I S N E W BO UTI Q U E SA LO N , A ITC H S E24 , CO M E TO LI F E .
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What was your aim when it came to the look of your salon? I wanted to create a salon that reflects the eclectic mix of clientele in the area. It’s so important for a business to fit in perfectly, and with such an interesting mixed community, which is alive with musicians, barristers, yummy mummies, and artists, it made this project particularly interesting. Did you have a clear idea of the actual look, colour scheme, etc? Because of the location I knew that the decor was going to be a mix of vintage and contemporary. The actual colour scheme and look started with the World War II Spitfireinspired Takara Belmont Chairs; they’re modern but the metal gives them a vintage twist. The mix of styles, colours and textures for the interior followed, and I spent a lot of time trawling the antique markets of London for the finer details of the salon. I also wanted to indulge my love of music, with a wall of vintage album covers! Did you have a definite budget in mind? Did you stick to it? Budget in mind? Yes Did I stick to it? Absolutely not! How did the Capital team help you when it came to making your vision a reality? The Lee High Road branch team really listened to what I wanted to achieve. Bobby gave lots of time to this project, going out of his way to take me to a showroom to view samples, which allowed me to make informed decisions. Top tips for someone wanting to revamp their salon? Research and know your market and make your refit relevant to your existing and new clients. Make sure that you have a large contingency budget – a refit can take twice as long and cost twice as much as you originally expected! What has been your clients’ reaction to the look/style? Our guests absolutely love the comfortable, relaxed feel that the salon has, as well as the high quality service that we offer. I would say that 95 percent of guests also love it that we ask them to refrain from using their mobile phones while enjoying their time with us. Aitchlondon.com
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C A P I TA L T R A I N I N G
FOREVER
Summer
N OW ’ S TH E TI M E TO G E T YO U R C LI E NT S R E A DY FO R TH AT B I G H O LI DAY TH E Y ’ V E B E E N PL A N N I N G , A N D W E ’ V E GOT TH E CO U R S E S TO G E T YO U O N TH E RI G HT PATH . W E ’ R E TA LK I N G TA N N I N G , WA X I N G A N D N A I L S . /40
ALL ABOUT THE GLOW Even for clients who might not be planning a Summer holiday, a tan can get them feeling and looking amazing. Our Sienna X courses offer the absolute best when it comes to information on techniques and trends. Sienna X is the number 1 professional spray tan brand, and during the one-day Spray Tanning Course you will learn to create a bespoke tan, how to prep and offer pre-treatment advice, spot contra-indications and how to consult male clients, plus so much more. Once you’ve perfected this course, sign up for the Level 2 Education Course and learn how to enhance your business. Dress code: Wear dark underwear, loose dark clothing and bring loose shoes to wear after your tan. Equipment: None needed; all will be supplied on the day. Cost: £95 ex VAT (Level 1); £59 ex VAT (Level 2)
SO SMOOTH Learn both hot and warm waxing on our interactive beginners Foundation Waxing course. Find out more about anatomy and physiology, and health and safety, as well as prescription waxing in this one-day course. And don’t forget to leave your hair to grow for at least two weeks ahead of the course date! Dress code: Wear comfortable clothing, closed toe shoes and minimal jewellery. Bring your lunch! Equipment: None needed; all will be supplied on the day. Cost: £99 ex VAT
this is a serious course for skilled technicians (or those who attended the warm waxing course a minimum of three months ago) who wish to provide underarm, bikini and nasal waxing services.
Once you’ve gained warm waxing experience, why not master the art of the highly profitable Hollywood and Brazilian waxing services with our Intimate Waxing Course? Focused mostly on hot waxing,
Dress code: Professional attire. Equipment: None needed but you will need to arrange for a model to attend on the day. Cost: £115 ex VAT
THE FINISHING TOUCHES Nothing makes a client feel more ‘complete’ than when they’ve had a full mani/pedi. Our Manicure/Pedicure course is great for beginners and is essential learning towards earning an NVQ in nail services. You’ll learn how to set up a work station, hand massage technique, client consultation and everything else you need to know to give top-notch service.
Ready to get super creative with your clients? Then you need to sign up for the Gellux Nail Art course. Meet the experts and learn everything from the simplest to the most elaborate nail art there is, including glitter tips and leopard print. You must have previous UV/LED Gel Training, have attended the Salon System Gellux Gel Polish Course or be an existing nail technician.
Dress code: Professional attire. Remove all nail extensions. Equipment: Please view course sheet for full list of materials needed. Cost: £85 ex VAT
Dress code: Professional attire. Remove any gel polish but extensions do not need to be removed. Equipment: Everything is provided but bring your own lunch! Cost: £75 ex VAT
Find out more about the above courses and so many others at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/training! /41
THE
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E BL A IL A OW AV N
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C A P I TA L C O L L E C T I O N S
THE
collections YO U K N OW TH AT SAY I N G , ‘ LE S S I S M O R E ’ ? W E LL TH I S I S S U E TH AT M A K E S TOTA L S E N S E -W E ’ V E O N LY GOT ROO M FO R T WO CO LLEC TI O N S B UT TH E Y C E RTA I N LY PAC K A PU N C H !
TRAVIS BANDIERA AT ROYALS HAIR You simply cannot fault the colour work here in Travis’ Hourglass collection; think candy-coated pastels that offer texture as well as beauty. Inspired by a clock’s marble face, Travis began to research how temperatures and minerals give varied colour results, and soon began playing with freehand gradients. This experimentation is just part of the reason that we had to give him our Summer cover. Hair/colour: Travis Bandiera | Makeup: Mikele Simone and Stephanie Pettito | Photography: Daniel Knott /44
MICHELLE THOMPSON, FRANCESCO GROUP We’re so happy to dedicate this space to Michelle Thompson’s Raw collection, as we’ve been watching this inspirational creator for quite some time. Michelle is a great hairdresser, that’s clear, but she is also at the forefront of the Afro market, and anyone wanting to be inspired to strive harder, should pay attention, now. Hair: Michelle Thompson | Photography: Richard Miles
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PROFESSIONAL
3-STEP SYSTEM
PROFESSIONAL
3-STEP SYSTEM
INFINITE SHINE No Light Gel-Lacquer
Up to 10 days of wear and gel-like shine
Step out in style in new Spring shades! #InfiniteShine Professional, 3-Step System • Easy Application & Removal • No Light Needed Available in 70 runway inspired shades /46
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IN FAMILIAR TERRA-TORY
IT’S PINK P.M.
ROSE AGAINST TIME
DON’T PROVOKE THE PLUM!
REACH FOR THE SKY
IT’S PINK P.M.
OLIVE FOR GREEN
SUNRISE TO SUNSET
HALF PAST NUDE
GLOSS
IN FAMILIAR TERRA-TORY
SUNRISE TO SUNSET
HALF PAST NUDE
REACH FOR THE SKY
PRIMER
C A P I TA L S TO R E F I N D E R
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