The Capital Cut | Winter 2019

Free for all Capital Hair & Beauty customers

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NEW YEAR BUSINESS RESOLUTIONS | WHAT’S HOT FOR 2020?

‘TIS THE SEASON TO GLOW

Winter 2019

TH E C A PITA L CU T W I NTE R 2019

GET THE LOOK THIS CHRISTMAS WITH STYLESIGN

CONTENTS EDITOR’S LE T TER The year might be almost over, but we’re here to help you end it on a high! From advice from industry experts on which business resolutions to make on page 16, to tons of beauty content! Learn how to create three stunning party manicures (page 42), how to prep your clients’ skin for party season (page 28) and master some beautifully wearable party hairstyles on page 22. If that isn’t enough, we’re talking brow trends and techniques on page 19 and giving you our 2020 trend predictions on page 36.

As always, we’d love to know what you’d like to see more of in YOUR magazine, so email me at lrigby@capitalhb.co.uk and let us know!

Lily Rigby

INSIDE

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Brunette model: Spray Curly Twist Surf Oil through damp hair. Starting from nape of the neck, twist around 1cm sections with your fingers for smooth curls, alternating the direction. Diffuse dry. Open twists and shake to separate using Ultra Volume Dust Up. Redhead model: Blow dry with a round brush for a smooth texture. Mist Curly Twist Twist Around through hair to retain curl shape. Fix with Perfect Hold Big Finish.

For more inspiration visit the Goldwell Education Plus YouTube Channel.

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THE HEADLINES All the Capital news

TRIED AND TESTED

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Must-have products

A WEEK IN MY SHOES Check out what #barberlife is really like

THE BEAUTY EDIT The 10 Winter essentials you need in your kit

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CAPITAL INSIDERS The products that we are loving right now

NEW YEAR, NEW BUSINESS? The business resolutions the experts are making

ALL ABOUT BROWS The trends, the techniques and the tools for perfect brows

PARTY SEASON HAIR SORTED! The most wearable looks this season

ON THE COVER

How amazing are these rose gold curls from Ashley and Charlotte from the Rush, Oldham team - perfect party hair inspo that’s inspired by precious metals.

HAIR Ashley Haynes and Charlotte Oldfield at Rush, Oldham PHOTOGRAPHY Jack Eames MAKEUP Megumi Matsuno STYLING Magdalena Jacobs

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YOUR 2020 SALON A step by step on how to revamp your salon with Capital

WHAT’S HOT FOR 2020 The trends for nails, hair, waxing and more

NAIL THE LOOK Three sparkling nail tutorials

LET’S GET SOCIAL! Where to find us

‘TIS THE SEASON TO GLOW Get your clients’ skin prepped to party

TRAINING FOCUS New Year skills

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COLOUR PROTECTION NEW With WellaPlex bonding agent. For stronger hair** ColorMotion+ elevates colour care beyond anti-fading. Regular use of ColorMotion+ care regimen improves coloured hair quality in three areas that are specifically important for coloured hair: Colour Protection, Vibrant Shine, Stronger Hair**.

Excellent hair quality for beautiful hair colour.

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*when using Structure+ Mask **when using Structure+ Mask vs. no treatment

#ColorMotion

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HEADLINES

A S I T’S O U R L A ST I SSU E O F 2019, W E T H O U G HT IT WOULD BE GOOD TO LOOK BACK ON THE YE AR AND REMIND YOU OF OUR BEST BITS!

M A D E I N I TA LY

MARCH

We took home the Furniture award as the No 1 Distributor of Salon Ambience 2018!

APRIL

We added three new stores to the Capital family; Eclipse Professional Hair & Beauty Supplies in Bracknell, High Wycombe and Slough.

JULY

Master balayage

We launched our training tote bags, to be given to every training course attendee. Filled with goodies including a magazine, offers booklet, training brochure and free sample, the bags have been a huge success and we’ve received some lovely feedback from you!

AUGUS T NEW BLONDME PREMIUM CLAY LIGHTENER 350g Our 1st clay-based lightener with integrated bond enforcing technology for effortless free-hand techniques and seamless blonde results.

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www.schwarzkopfpro.com

The magazine underwent a complete rebrand. The brief was to keep it fresh, chic and more accessible – we hope you’re loving the new look!

OCTOBER

We turned 65! We have come such a long way over the last 65 years and we couldn’t have done it without your support. Celebrate with us this November – keep an eye open in-store and online for our celebratory promotions.

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Sparkle and Shine The Manicure Company delivers the perfect dose of glitter and glam, just in time for the festive season. With three limited edition gel polishes and two stunning metallic gel paints, it’s truly your time to shine. £39.95 / €43.25

Indola PCC – the smartest colour with affordable prices for delivering best-in-class colour performance to fulfill all your salon needs thanks to:

For a completely customised shade of sun-kissed colour, simply mix Crazy Angel Tanning Drops into a moisturiser or serum and apply evenly.

The best part? You’re in complete control; the more drops you add, the deeper the glow. These game-changing drops are vegan-friendly and free from alcohol, parabens, mineral oils – and streaks! They also contain anti-oxidant properties to help fight free radicals and UV damage. £6.08 for 30ml / €9.55

Shades of glory

Super Smooth

Majirel Glow Permanent Colour is L’Oréal’s first translucent permanent hair colour that offers a neutralised finish and extreme luminosity. Lifting up to 3 levels, Majirel Glow boosts beautiful colour reflects to leave hair looking super natural and seriously shiny. £7.45

It’s that time of year when clients want results that last all day long, so what could be better than a smoothing blowdry that lasts for 12 weeks? First Shampoo gives clients smooth, frizz-free hair that’s not only compatible with other sameday chemical treatments, it won’t be affected by products containing sulphates! Now that’s a result. £14.95

Permanent Caring Color featuring Color Pixel Technology delivers up to coverage lasting vibrancy and dazzling shine.

100% coverage,

Follow us on: 8

indola.co.uk

auk instagram.com/indol

#Simply Smarter

Here’s hoping you’re lucky enough to find a BeautyPro Spa At Home Mask Set under the tree! Featuring one each of their best-selling Detoxifying Mask with Activated Charcoal, Eye Therapy Under-Eye Mask with Collagen and Green Tea, and – our personal fave – Thermotherapy Gold Foil Mask with Hyaluronic Acid and Q10, this is truly a gift to treasure – especially after all the mince pies have been eaten. £4.95

Control your glow

– RELIABILITY – with proven Smart Color Pixel Technology delivering absolute coverage, lasting colour vibrancy and dazzling shine – And SMART inspiration 24/7 – creative techniques made easy!

The best Christmas gift ever?

Visit your local Capital Hair and Beauty or head to www.capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk / ie to see what else we have in store…

TRIED

Profession Permanent Caring Color (PCC)

Here’s our essential guide to the products we know you’ll want to get your hands on this winter…

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TOP PICKS

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HAIR

This month we take a peek into the life of acclaimed barber Ollie Foster. From essential admin and styling clients through to international education, he’s always busy! Here are Ollie’s experiences from behind the barber’s chair.

MONDAY

Oliver Foster SALON

Number 47 Barbers LOCATION

Chester YEARS IN BUSINESS

A WEEK SHOES IN

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5 years INSTAGRAM

It’s admin day, so it’s time to get myself up to date and organised. Running any kind of business requires routine, and so Mondays always start with me organising the books and meeting with my accountant. Once that’s done, I like to spend the rest of the day doing something I enjoy.

That might be going for a walk or to the gym, or sometimes just relaxing on the sofa with a good film! I always try and get an early night before my working week begins.

@olliefosterhair

TUESDAY WEBSITE

number47barbers.nearcut.com

Day one behind the chair for me and I’m working from my salon in Hoole. My first cut is at 9am and I’ll work until I set my tools down at 6pm. A typical Tuesday sees me cut between 15-17 clients. The day always flies by, especially as I’ll be mingling with Brad, James, Scott and Jack, finding out what they’ve been up to over the weekend - oh, the stories I could tell! Squeezing a quick lunch in between clients can make eating healthily a challenge, but I always do my best. I have been known to sneak a chip or two in though!

When the graft is done it’s time for the best part of the week, 5-a-side football with the lads from work.

WEDNESDAY Again I’ll typically breeze my way through the same number of clients, catching up with them all as I go. Spending my days chatting and laughing with people is one of the best things about my job. I work from 9am-6pm again, before running a training night for my apprentices and any of 10

my staff who want further education. This is a great chance for us to learn together as a team, whether it’s about new cutting techniques or new products to master from my sponsors, The Bluebeards Revenge. Most evenings I love to be the chef when I get home, but if the Mrs can’t hold on she’ll cook up something delicious and have it ready for me when I finish at the salon.

I’m a very lucky man.

THURSDAY Today is the big one, and I’ll work a 12-hour shift and cut 24 clients. I’ve taken up residence in the Boughton shop for the rest of the week, where I get

night I like to cook a really nice meal to signal the start of the weekend, and tonight it’s steak for dinner.

SATURDAY The day every barber is waiting for: a full column of clients come through the doors and they’re all in good spirits.

The team and I work an eighthour shift but enjoy every minute of it, and Saturdays always whizz by. Before I know it, it’s time to clean down the shop ready for next week. With the shop clean, we ship off to the pub for a pint or two and toast the weekend. Now I’m a bit older my Saturday nights aren’t quite what they used

OLLIE’S ADVICE

“Anything is achievable if you put your mind to it and push yourself. I have only been working in this amazing industry for five years, but already I’ve found myself blessed with incredible opportunities.” to catch up with Billy, Carl, Scott and Charlie. As we approach the weekend we crank the tunes up and start to feel the atmosphere build.

After a long day I head home, throw my slobs on, and wind down with some TV.

FRIDAY I always try to start my days off at the gym, so before work I drag myself over to the free weights for 7am. When I arrive at the shop the weekend’s in full swing. Friday is the new Saturday in the Boughton shop and it’s the busiest day of the week by far. I’m working from 9am-7pm to get as many clients ready for the weekend as possible. I love the buzz and atmosphere! On a Friday

to be, although that doesn’t stop me from having a late one every now and then! But most of the time, it’s all about a few beers in the local or a meal out with the other half.

SUNDAY Sunday’s a day of rest, for most people! But usually I’m on the road doing what I love most: educating. I’m lucky enough to be a member of The Great British Barber Bash team, which allows me to educate up and coming barbers all over the world. On average, I take to the stage twice a month.

When I’m not on stage, I like to put my feet up and take it easy, or enjoy some time on the golf course, depending on the weather…

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B E AUT Y FAV E S

BEHIND THE CUT

AFRO SKIN FADE USED BY PROFESSIONALS SINCE 1919

BY MICHAEL DAMIANO

facebook: wahlprofessionaluk instagram: wahlprouk

step 1

#1 The Manicure Company Winter Collection in Femme Fatale

#2 Hello Kitty Collection

by OPI Christmas Cracker

This collection of six richly decadent jewel toned shades, ranging from glittering silver through to deep purple and ruby red, is perfect for those long, dark winter nights.

Pick a favourite, or use together to create some stunning multi-coloured nail art. £39.95 / €43.25

Hello Kitty has reached iconic status, so of course it makes sense that OPI’s Christmas collection pays homage to the household name. Our fave colour from the Christmas range has to be the glistening gold Glitter All The Way! £16.95 / €21.25

#4 Ardell Magnetic Gel Eyeliner & Wispies Kit

Map the fade line from just below the temple to the nape with a #1 guide comb.

#3 Dr Paw Paw Rich Mocha Balm 25ml

step 2

A classic nude never goes out of fashion, and Dr Paw Paw’s Rich Mocha Balm keeps lips super soft with this gorgeous, nourishing balm. Great for buildable colour.. £3.95

Create a guide line above the mapping line with a #2 guide comb.

Faster, seamless application of magnetic lashes has to be the perfect time-saving answer for all those party looks, right?

With just a swipe of brush-on eyeliner, your client’s lashes are DONE. £10.50

step 3 Put the #0 guide in below the #1, curving to create a shadow fade.

step 4 Tighten the fade between the mapping and guide line with a #1.5 guide comb.

step 5 Fade out the line between the #0 and #1, working the taper lever from open to closed.

step 6 Remove bulk around the side with a #4 comb.

step 7 Taper the side to the fade with clipper over comb technique.

step 8 Comb out to natural state and free hand shape.

step 9 Shape-up and sharpen the hair lines.

more tutorials at wahl.co.uk 12

#5 Kaeso Dusk Till Dawn Sleep Oil, 50ml Beauty sleep in a bottle.

Formulated with plant extracts, it restores and rejuvenates the skin, evening out tone and giving a real radiance boost. Because it contains lavender it will guarantee your clients feel truly relaxed during their treatment. Sweet dreams indeed. £6.50 / €8.15

T H E

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E D I T Get ready to meet your must-haves for this season…

#6 Beauty Pro Eye Therapy Under Eye Collagen Patch Soothe tired puffy eyes, banish dark circles and minimise the signs of aging in just 20 minutes with these cooling under eye patches. Infused with collagen and green tea, they’re cut to fit and ready to use. £2.45 / €4.83

#7 Uppercut Deluxe Aftershave Moisturiser, 100ml From a brand created by barbers for barbers, this is a no-nonsense product that really delivers. Free of parabens and mineral oils it calms and nourishes the skin and minimises oiliness post-shave, with no overpowering fragrance. £6.50 / €8.15

#8 Sienna X Sleep Tinted Self Tan, 200ml Give your clients a flawless year-round glow whatever the weather with this streak-free formula. Simply apply with a tanning mitt, using the guide colour to guarantee an even finish, and leave for eight hours to develop. Also makes a great product for resell! £11.99 / €15.00

#9 Nature’s Way Aromatherapy Geranium Essential Oil, 10ml While its benefits may not be as well-known as other, more popular essential oils, Geranium is a real powerhouse. As well having an uplifting fragrance and antiseptic and healing properties, it can help balance sebum production and even skin tone. Perfect to use during facials or massages. £4.95 / €6.00

#10 The Manicure Company Cuticle Pusher Twin Pack Essential for any nail tech’s kit, these have a long spoon for easy movement around the cuticle, and a knife for really precise removal and tidying. Made from stainless steel with an easy grip centre to prevent slipping. £5.55 / €5.95 13

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INSIDERS

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INSIDERS It’s always great to get tips from industry insiders, and who better to offer advice on the latest products than our very own Capital team members?

Check out the current faves from the Capital team…

I N F U S E D W I T H K E R AT I N FOR MAXIMUM SMOOTHNESS AND SHINE

Pulp Riot – Clear £9.99

Kaeso I Sparkle Eye Gel £5.65

Every blonde should use this; I have never experienced my hair being so shiny, soft, and full of body. All I do is apply to dry hair, leave on for 40 minutes, rinse off and style.

Whenever I use it people always ask me what I’ve done to my hair. I am addicted.

Angela Johnson, Category Development Manager

I use this morning and evening at the end of my routine; I apply it to the eye contour and its soothing balm mint and grapeseed oil leave my eyes feeling soothed and conditioned. It’s great for decongesting, reducing dark circles and puffiness and always allows for a smooth makeup to be applied afterwards.

Georgia Saunders, Brighton Store

L’Oréal Serie Expert Instant Resurfacing Mask £13.55 This mask is a MUST-HAVE. I use it every time I wash my hair and leave it on for about four minutes – it really has made a difference, my hair’s so shiny. I think everyone should give this a go, especially if you colour your hair.

Sam Shamplina-Burkwood, Marketing Manager

HOF Retinol Anti-Ageing Gel Cleanser £9.95

ALSO AVAIL ABLE IN ROSE GOLD

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I believe cleansing is the most important stage of any skincare routine, and this is an outstanding product – it removes all makeup in one wash. The vitamin E softens the skin and it never feels tight after washing. Ruth Masters-Piggott, Regional Manager

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Brett MacDonald, Creative Director of CULt. Education, @cult.education Next year will mark the biggest year yet for CULt. Since our launch at Salon International two years ago we have had our sights set on establishing an official Headquarters for the Academy and Salon in the heart of London’s West End. As you can imagine, this has been taking up a lot of our time, and we are super excited to now be pulling together a great group of like-minded people that love to learn and grow, and want to be part of a fun, hard-working team. We have a lot of external education abroad planned for next year, but also want to get CULt. out there to UK salons. We’ll be doing more grass roots work up and down the country to let salons know about the educational courses we offer, and find out from them what they need for their business when it comes to education.

BETWEEN NEUTRALISATION & LUMINOSITY

Jonathan Harries, Owner of Shine Hair Group, @shinehairbrighton The relative calm of January in the salon allows me a bit of time to prepare for the year ahead. This means booking in salon training, and encouraging our team to get models in to try out new looks and photograph them, so we have a bank of great imagery to use on social media throughout the year. I also think it’s really important to ensure we’re always up to date with all product developments; get in early with the next new ‘thing’ and you could part of something exciting.

Next year I will be encouraging all the team at Shine to offer our clients a longer consultation, so we can put together a bespoke hair plan which takes any major holidays in the sun or special events into account. That way we can avoid doing anything too ambitious or experimental during the build-up to a wedding or anything that involves lots of photos.

As a salon owner I will also be looking at all costs to ensure I am running my business as efficiently as possible. That means having conversations with all of my suppliers, from brushes to energy, to be sure I am on the best possible deal. Finally, I do think it’s beneficial to your business to set yourself some personal goals as well; maybe reducing your time behind the chair or taking up yoga. Your business needs you to look after yourself too.

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Michelle Griffin, CEO at Loxbox, @michellegriffinhair For us 2020 is all about growing the Loxbox brand, and engaging with salons throughout the UK and internationally. We have made great progress in 2019, and hope to continue this over the next year. Building a brand is all about communication and along with word of mouth and constant press and publicity, we’ve learned that social media is really important.

We want to make everyone aware of our brand, so continuous, effective communication is our New Year’s resolution.

NO COMPROMISE

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HOW TO MAKE 2020 A HAPPY ONE FOR YOUR

B U S I N E S S

It’s the time of year when many of us start thinking about making New Year’s resolutions.

Whether it’s vowing to eat better, hit the gym more or take up a new hobby, these are usually personal goals. But what about setting some resolutions to improve the health of your business? The new year is the perfect time to celebrate your business’s strengths and identify any areas in need of improvement. After all, even small changes can have a powerful impact. We asked three industry experts what their hopes and plans are for their business in 2020.

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL’S 1ST TRANSLUCENT PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR FOR A NEUTRALISED FINISH & EXTREME LUMINOSITY

BOOSTED IN COOL REFLECTS For a neutralised finish

+50% LIGHT REFLECTION*

For extreme luminosity

4X MORE TRANSLUCENCY* Made with specifically designed balanced range of dyes

*Vs Majirel core range

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KEEP A SECRET It’s official; brows and lashes are big business. Things move fast in this industry, so it pays to stay ahead of the trends as clients look to you for advice and inspiration. With a dazzling array of products and treatments out there, here’s a guide to help your clients seriously up their brow and lash game.

8 NEW shades from the Gellux Winter Collection.

Available at Capital Hair & Beauty Now 18

#Gellux

Cult

@salonsystem www.salonsystem.com

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BEAUTY

brow’s natural hair growth. Because colour is applied to the surface layers only the pigment will fade within 12-18 months, depending on the client’s skin type. Usually taking place over two sessions, microblading allows you to create bespoke, realistic-looking brows with real precision. No wonder it’s the treatment that’s taken the brow industry by storm – and it’s great service to add to your menu too!

LEARN MORE: Why not try our 3-DAY MICROBLADING COURSE? Designed for beginners with a beauty background in mind, the course is made up of two days training in-store, followed by a separate assessment day. All materials will be provided to you on the day of the course; for more information visit capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/training

Rush

LUSCIOUS L ASHES

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“Brows have reverted back to being more natural and fluffy-textured, with softer edges. No more harsh lines or strong colour but still looking groomed. They need to have a naturally high arch but plenty of width, especially towards the tail.”

ALL ABOUT BROWS

Lesley Wilks, Permanent Make Up Artist, @lesleywilksuk

Microblading

While brow trends come and go, most experts agree that the perfect, overly-sculpted ‘Instagram brow’ is on its way out, replaced by a fuller, more natural look. But for those not naturally blessed in that department (or who’ve never quite recovered from over-plucking in their youth), help is at hand.

This is a semi-permanent technique used to create the illusion of fuller brows. Using a small, handheld tool, pigment is applied to the epidermis layer of the skin in featherweight strokes, mimicking the

LEARN MORE: We’ve got an amazing range of lash courses for you; from

SALON SYSTEM’S LASH LIFT, CURL & TINT and MARVELASH EYELASH EXTENSIONS , to LASH FX LASH EXTENSIONS and our brand new

CHRISTMAS CREATIVE LASHES & NAILS , we’ve got you covered!

“Managing client expectations is key. If they have very short, thin lashes you’re not going to be able to achieve the ‘strip lash’ look. I find asking clients for a picture of what they are expecting is a brilliant troubleshooter! I can then look at their natural lashes and advise them whether or not their desired look is achievable.” Yasmin Elizabeth, Lash Technician, @YasminLashes Let’s face it, we’d all love to wake up with full and feathery lashes each morning - no mascara required – and your clients are spending more than ever on the quest to achieve more volume, length and definition. So, with party season around the corner and

Tinting Another option for the client who is fed up of filling in their brows each morning, but with a slightly less hefty price tag, brow tinting is quick and easy and adds depth, shape and definition, with the effects lasting between four to six weeks. For a more natural look, brows should stay within one to two shades of a client’s hair colour, and you can mix tints to create truly customised colour for your clients: “By analysing their clients’ natural cool and warm tones, hair and eye colour, as well as skin tone, the therapist can use the Browista techniques by RefectoCil and become a creative colourist for the brows,” explains Ruth Atkins, Lash Expert and Salon System Educator, @ruthielouise.

the demand for eye-popping lashes on the increase, here’s what you need to know.

Lash Extensions Applied to individual natural lashes to add length and volume, extensions will typically last around four to six weeks. There are so many options to help your clients achieve their desired look, from new application techniques to variations in length, thickness and curvature, meaning you’re able to deliver a completely customisable service. While mega volume Russian and cashmere lashes remain popular, many lash gurus predict that short and sweet may be the way forward.

Depending on the weight, extending lashes by more than

2mm past their natural length can risk damaging the natural lash, and the illusion of volume is just as easily achieved through shorter lashes: “Clean isolation should always be the main focus for any lash artist, with volume and density coming second!” reminds Yasmin Elizabeth.

Lash Lifts Essentially a perm for the lashes, lash lifts add lift, curl and intensity to the client’s own lashes, and can make a really dramatic difference.

While you’re still able to create a bespoke look for your client, lash lifts come with none of the upkeep of extensions, making them the ideal option for the time-poor, with the effects lasting between six to eight weeks.

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PA RT Y

HAIR

S E A S O N

THE PART Y PONY

H A I R ,

S O RT E D !

Party hair doesn’t have to be high maintenance. The epitome of understated cool, this modern pixie ponytail is a quick and easy hairstyle to create for clients at this time of year. It suits everyone and just oozes low-key chic.

Karen Thomson, owner of KAM Hair and Body Spa (@karenthomsonkam), shows us how to recreate the look.

PREP Start by using a blow-dry cream to give the client’s hair smoothness and shine.

STYLE Gather the hair at the nape of the neck, securing it with a hair tie to create the perfect low pony. Make sure you stay light-handed and avoid being too ‘neat’ to give it more of an effortless, undone look.

KAM Hair and Body Spa

FINISH Add a playful edge by pulling pieces of hair out around the front to frame the client’s face.

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1 TIGI Bed Head Straighten Out 120ml £8.25

Unsplash.com

Help your clients make a real statement during the festivities with a glam but versatile look that works for any occasion. Here are three head-turning styles that can take them from desk to dancefloor.

2 IQ Intelligent Haircare Blow Dry Cream 150ml £3.99 3 YuuShuu Superior Scissor, 5.5inch £79.95

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ONLY £14.95 24

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All images Josh Goldsworthy

THE KNOT TED BR AID Braids are definitely not just for summer. Allowing you to play with texture and movement, they’re a fun way to add a wearable edge over the festive season, and can be easily incorporated into lots of different styles. Simon Hill, owner of SESH Hairdressing (@simonhillhair), shows us how to perfect this deconstructed knotted braid.

GL ASS HAIR Spotted on red carpets and catwalks alike, glass hair is the trend that’s guaranteed to put your client in the spotlight.

This is all about creating a super sharp and straight bob, so polished and shiny, it’s practically reflective!

Josh Goldsworthy of Goldsworthy’s Hairdressing (@josh_golds) shows us how to get the look.

PREP PREP

For this look to work you first need to ensure your client’s ends are all even. Then use a moisturising shampoo and deep conditioning mask: moisture is key to prevent flyaway strands and preserve that mirror-like shine.

Take your clients’ hair from the centre section and work a knotted braid down towards the nape of the neck, leaving the sides out. Keeping the hair off the face allows this style to stay looking feminine and suitable for the party season.

STYLE STYLE

Blow dry the hair straight, aiming the air flow down the shaft to smooth the cuticles.

Then, working your way up the head, take small inch by inch sections and flat iron the hair with a very slight bevel to the ends, but not turned under.

This will help catch the light and reveal that shine line.

Be sure to use a heat defence spray on each section.

Tie into a low ponytail at the nape of the neck, ensuring you smooth the sides down before securing.

FINISH Use your fingers to create movement and height on the braid, before adding some texture to the length of the ponytail. Finish with a texturising hair spray.

SESH

FINISH

1 Head Jog The Big Tease Styling Brush £3.95

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2 Schwarzkopf Silhouette Super Hold Hairspray 750ml £5.40

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3 Head-Gear Hair Bands Black pk100 £0.85

1 Wella Professionals Smoothening Oil Reflections 100ml £10.85 2 L’Oréal Serie Expert Gold Absolut Repair Shampoo 300ml £8.20 1 3 Argan Plus+ Luxury Oil Treatment 60ml £7.99 4 Wella Professionals EIMI Dynamic Fix Hairspray 500ml £9.60

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Apply about a pump’s worth of serum to each section, smoothing through with your hands. Then, using a boar bristle brush smooth all the hair down, moving the serum through the hair as you go.

Finish with hairspray to hold in place.

LEARN MORE Want to know more about special occasion hairdressing?

Check out our Trend Bridal & Event Hair, or our Blow-Drying Skills Workshop to ensure you’re ahead of the game this festive season.

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T H E

S E A S O N

T O

G L O W !

WE LOVE… Skin Republic Collagen Hydrogel Sheet Mask, £3.60 This soothing serum sheet mask, packed with sea minerals to nourish and hydrate instantly restores lost moisture and elasticity, while Collagen and Argan oil help to plump up the skin and reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles.

Long days, late nights, some inevitable overindulgence and change in weather all take their toll on the skin at this time of year. Not ideal when most of us are juggling a packed social calendar! Whatever your client’s winter skin SOS, meet the multi-tasking saviours that will help them get through the party season looking fresh-faced.

WE LOVE… Natura Vegan Rose Sheet Mask, £2.45 Infused with powerful botanical extracts, this sheet mask quickly soothes irritated skin, drawing out impurities, preventing blemishes and easing any redness.

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Kaeso Calming Collection, £13.75/€18.50 A must-have addition to any therapist’s box of tricks at this time of year, this is a complete first aid kit for treating sensitive, winter-worn skin. Featuring a purifying face mask, gentle exfoliator, cleanser, toner and calming moisturiser and containing extracts of Mulberry, Pomegranate, White Nettle and Chamomile to soothe and nourish, this collection is ideal for use on clients who are prone to skin irritation.

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DEHYDR ATION

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The morning after is usually proof enough that one too many cocktails is enemy number one for the skin. Alcohol is a diuretic, essentially taking water out of the body and leaving skin dehydrated, dry and flaky, with lines and wrinkles more visible due to lack of hydration. Alcohol also hampers collagen production, therefore speeding up the ageing process and leaving us looking super dry. If your client’s skin is suffering from a bit of seasonal excess and needs some TLC, reach for products that contain Hyaluronic Acid – it can retain 1,000 times its weight in water, meaning skin will be left looking and feeling more plump - or Collagen – naturally found in the body, it keeps skin elastic and bouncy. Together these two skin-lovers will help calm and rehydrate the skin.

REDNESS & IRRITATION

With temperatures dipping outside and the central heating turned up to the max indoors, most people’s skin ends up confused, suffering and stripped of moisture - leaving it looking red and feeling over-sensitive. Rose essential oil is a true winter skin wonder-worker.

Packed full of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants, it not only helps to boost the skin’s moisture levels but its astringent and anti-inflammatory properties help to calm and minimise irritation. As an added bonus, its gorgeous scent alone can help relax even the most frazzled client during the hectic festive season!

charissekenion.com

‘ T I S

BEAUTY

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TH E C A PITA L CU T W I NTE R 2019

BEAUTY

DULL COMPLE XION Tired, patchy-looking skin is a common winter beauty gripe, and late nights on the dance floor certainly don’t help. But no amount of brightening wonder products will be able to get to work unless those dry, dead skin cells have first been removed. Products containing a chemical exfoliant AHA like a Glycolic or Lactic Acid will help to gently shed surface cells to reveal smoother, more even-toned skin, and allow subsequent treatments to be properly absorbed and the benefits truly felt.

WE LOVE…

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Kaeso Anti-Ageing Micellar Water, 195ml £4.35 / €5.45 This hydrating formula effectively removes makeup and cleanses the skin of impurities.

It also contains Glycolic Acid to improve overall texture and stimulate cell renewal, making it the perfect first step in any brightening facial treatment.

Shop our full range of skincare at your nearest store or visit capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/beauty 30

iStock

HOF Retinol A Eye Gel £14 Retinol is the biggest thing (again) in the beauty industry, and this eye gel is gentle enough to use in the under-eye area. Within weeks, skin will be plumper and more supple.

Our tip? Leave it in the fridge so it can really deflate those puffy eyes.

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TH E C A PITA L CU T W I NTE R 2019

YOU ARE ALWAYS READY TO PARTY WITH TIGI When it comes to festive season, TIGI shows you the way to be party ready everyday. Whether you’re thinking of an intimate dinner party, drinks that go onto something more or having a full-on crazy ball, TIGI has your back.

TEXTURE

DAMAGE

SHINE

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VOLUME

REPAIR

COLOUR

FOR HIM

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TH E C A PITA L CU T W I NTE R 2019

N

E

W

TRAINING

Y E A R ,

N

E

W

SKILLS! White to Brown Spray Tanning Tanning is such a great add-on to your business, especially if you’re a mobile beautician. Learn all the aspects of how to apply and use White to Brown, how to market your business and the correct aftercare to ensure a long-lasting tan.

SUITABLE FOR Beginners, must be 18+

WHAT TO BRING All

Owner of Opiah Cosmetics, Chloe Goodman shares her favourite Capital courses and how they’ve helped her build her business in Brighton.

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materials will be provided. No model required.

COST £50 +VAT TIME 10.30am2.30pm

It’s so important to keep learning when you’re in a creative industry, and a new year is the perfect time to book in for a course or two. Read on to find out more about the top 3 courses destined to boost your business in 2020.

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Salon System Complete Nail Tech

WHICH COURSE HAVE YOU FOUND THE MOST PROFITABLE WHEN IT COMES TO BEING ABLE TO ADD IT AS A SERVICE TO YOUR BUSINESS?

If you’re looking for a comprehensive course in nails, then this is for you. Taking this course means you’ll come out feeling competent and capable in offering a range of nail services. It’s also great if you already know your stuff but just want to get an update on trends and techniques or want to switch to a new nail system. Everything from hygiene to promotion and marketing will be covered.

The Manicure Company has been a massive asset to our clinic; our clients are over the moon with the products and it’s helped our clinic go from strength to strength in terms of gaining new clients.

SUITABLE FOR Beginners, must be 18+ WHAT TO BRING All will be provided for the duration of the

WHICH COURSE DID YOU FIND THE MOST ENJOYABLE?

course but you may need to purchase additional items in the six to eight weeks before the exam. Please ensure you’ve removed any artificial nail structures prior to the course, and also be prepared to have nail extensions applied and removed.

COST £395 +VAT DURATION/TIME 5 days; 10am-5pm What the reviews say: Excellent all-round and fantastic trainer.

Great course to learn all aspects of nails.

I personally love the hot stone massage! I found the course very interesting and the treatments are so relaxing.

Want to find out more about our courses?

Visit capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/training

Salon System

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COURSES COMPLETED? I completed The Manicure Company Gel and Acrylic courses, the Foundation Waxing course and Hot Stone Massage.

Salon System Lash Lift If you want to add a profit-boosting service to your salon or mobile business, lash lifts are a great option. Longer, thicker, more voluminous lashes are such a huge trend, it makes great business sense to learn with this 1-day course.

In one day you’ll learn how to perm and lift lashes, as well as how to apply lash and brow tints.

SUITABLE FOR Beginners, must be 18+ WHAT TO BRING Everything is provided, but you’ll need to arrive wearing minimal makeup (not waterproof mascara) and a patch test must be performed 48 hours in advance of the course.

COST £130 +VAT TIME 10am-5pm WHAT THE REVIEWS SAY 100 percent recommend it!

I feel more confident and my clients love it.

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TH E C A PITA L CU T W I NTE R 2019

FURNITURE

W H Y T H E N E W Y E A R I S T H E P E R F EC T T I M E F O R A S A LO N

R E V A M P Now is a great time to think about changing things up at the salon, whether it’s for stylistic or practical reasons.

However, where do you begin? Here our furniture team explains every step towards a completely new look.

ONCE THE DECISION HAS BEEN MADE, HOW IMPORTANT IS IT FOR THE CUSTOMER TO HAVE A CLEAR IDEA OF WHAT THEY WANT? The more information our customers can share on what they are looking to achieve, the better. Look, functionality, design, investment, objectives and timeframes for delivery – very important! The more our team understands what customers are after, the easier it us for them to create a dream salon.

SHOULD ALL SALONS REVAMP THEIR LOOK REGULARLY? IF SO HOW OFTEN?

content from real salon projects that we have created, as well as some great content to inspire.

There is no rule with how often you should or shouldn’t; frequency often depends on local factors. Generally, we have seen a trend for revamps between the three to five-year mark.

WHAT ARE THE CURRENT TRENDS IN SALON INTERIORS?

WHAT IF A SALON OWNER DOESN’T HAVE A CLUE ABOUT WHAT STYLE/ THEME TO FOLLOW - WHERE CAN THEY GO FOR INSPIRATION?

Floral décor on walls for selfie stations, wood and natural-looking finishes on styling units and floors. Whatever the customer is looking for, we have a range of suppliers that offer different finishes, coloured upholstery and laminates to complement the build.

Check out our @capitalsalonfurniture Instagram page. It has some inspirational

A salon owner walks into Capital to begin their revamp journey - break down the process from day one to the final project.

HOW DOES A SALON OWNER KNOW WHEN IT’S TIME TO REVAMP THEIR SALON? The question we like to ask our customers is what could a salon revamp do for them? The impact of Instagram on consumer buying decisions crosses over to our customers’ businesses – the way their salon looks has become much more of a key factor in attracting new clients. It’s become more important for customers to regularly consider 36

whether their salon is meeting their core brand ideals, and that follows through all the way to their choices in furniture, colours and finishes.

Perhaps the current pieces are looking tired or are no longer functioning efficiently due to age or quality? Or perhaps the customer wants to really make their salon stand out amongst the competition in the area and give back to their existing client base, while also attracting a new clientele.

The first step is the consultation; it’s where we learn exactly what your needs and wants are. Once we have that understanding the process can involve:

•

Us showing you the options suited to your needs and wants online, via Instagram or at one of our showroom locations.

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Helping you arrange finance to support the project with our funding partner Shire Leasing.

•

Confirming the details with you and raising the orders for your items with our manufacturers.

•

Keeping in touch and providing you with any information you or your fitters might need ahead of delivery.

•

It’s time to make it happen! We love nothing more than seeing the finished product, so we can share it on our Instagram page. We’re also able to assist with any training needs. Just ask!

Visit www.capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/furniture to find out more, or visit your nearest Capital store today.

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HAIR & BEAUTY

W H A T ’ S

H O T

F O R

We asked industry experts what they think will be the key trends in hair, beauty, nails and barbering next year.

From big and bold through to low maintenance luxe, here’s everything you need to know to stay in the know.

2 0 2 0

On Beauty

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“With the growth of male waxing and more male therapists entering the industry we will see a big increase in the amount of male grooming salons opening, and beauty salons will want to adapt to accommodate this demand too.” Lisa Stone, Waxing Expert and Salon System Educator, @lisa_obrienstone “We have seen fuller, natural-looking brows become more and more fashionable, with treatments like microblading growing extremely popular. Although I think this will still be the case moving into 2020, brows are starting to become a little bit thinner and more refined.” Ellen K Bridger, Makeup Artist, @ellenbridgermakeupartist “I feel lashes are going to become a little more subtle and less overpowering in 2020.

A lot of clients are opting for natural lash lifts; they make their existing lashes look longer without the upkeep of extensions.”

Lesley Wilks, Celebrity Skin Specialist, Cosmetologist and Elite Permanent Makeup Artist, @lesleywilksuk

manicure, but mixed with textured effects such as suede matte. Encapsulation techniques such as milk bath and flame nails will continue to be popular, as will the nude look teamed with negative spacing or abstract brushwork.”

Nicola Sawyer, Nail Couture Lincoln, @nailcouturelincoln “I think neon is going to be big in 2020. It’s so versatile and instantly freshens up any manicure. Clients can choose from a simple French mani with a neon tip rather than the traditional white, or they can go for neon flames, stars, logos and more - the list goes on!”

Brogan Humes, Bombshell Beauty by Brogan, @bombshellbeauty_bybrogan

Rush

“I’m expecting to see a mixture of clean minimal designs and vibrant, colourful pattern clashes. Think simple, clean shapes versus bright neons and bold winter florals - I just love the contrast between them.

You could even mix the two together to create something really unique, which is great for the indecisive client!”

Bethan Turner-Harrod, DORTA, @_dorta_

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“Next year will see the return of the red

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NAILING IT

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Hair Goals “We will see blunt cut bobs, strong lines and lots of definition, inspired by the likes of Stella McCartney and Matty Bovan’s catwalk shows. It’s all about the architecture of the cut - powerful and bold.’

Kevin Paul Finnell, F&M Hairdressing, @fmhairdressing “Pastel shades will be popular, particularly pinks and corals, which are great as they’re very versatile and don’t have to mean high maintenance. For a lower maintenance look these shades can be paired with a root stretch and left to fade beautifully.”

Neil Barton, Neil Barton Hairdressing, @neilbartonhair “I think centre partings will be back, as they create a real statement look, especially when the rest of the hair is worn smooth and straight with lots of shine.”

Jim Shaw, Essensuals, @jimshawhair 40

ID Hair

William Gray

Jack and the Wolf

HAIR & BEAUTY

Schwarzkopf

TH E C A PITA L CU T W I NTE R 2019

GENTS ONLY “I think we’ll start going back to more traditional short back and sides with long choppy tops.

Beards have been in for a while now, so I predict a return to clean shaven faces too. Productwise, I still think sea salt spray will still be at the top of the list for men and their barbers alike, alongside volume powders.”

Sophie Collins, Soph’s Barbers, and ambassador for The Bluebeards Revenge, @ sophiecollins25 ‘I think we will see a return to longer hair styles inspired by the mid 1980s - think Steve Harrington from the hit Netflix show Stranger Things! Big, powerful hair with a more

relaxed stance on styling that works more with a natural growth pattern, plus lighter finishing products is where it’s at.”

Myles Lewis, Myles & Co, and OSMO Brand Ambassador, @myleslewisbarber “I think skin fades will still be hot as hell, but they’ll be sitting a little lower, creating a more subtle, tapered style, rather than the harsh, high and tight contrasted cuts we’ve seen over the last few years. Softer, looser quiffs seem to be back in now, too.”

Callum Marks, Luka’s Barbers, and ambassador for The Bluebeards Revenge, @callum_killed_it 41

4 TH E C A PITA L CU T W I NTE R 2019

N A I L

NAILS

T H E

LOOK

2

It’s time to party! Here are three sparkling nail looks to inspire you this season.

FRENCH WITH A T WIS T STEP 3 Using a flat detailing brush cover one third of the nail on the pinky finger with GELLUX Cherry Blossom, from the base of the nail. Then cover one third of the nail on the middle finger from the tip down, and cure. Repeat this step until full coverage is achieved.

STEP 4 Mix a small drop of GELLUX Black Onyx and GELLUX Magenta Sparkles on to a nail palette. Using a small detailing brush underline the French tips on the ring and

index fingers in GELLUX Black Onyx. Using the same colour draw a thin line at the base of the GELLUX Cherry Blossom, but only half way along on the pinky and middle fingers. Use the GELLUX Magenta Sparkles to finish off the line, and cure.

STEP 5 Use your detailing brush to create a half moon on the ring finger in GELLUX Black Onyx. On the thumb, create a half moon at the base of the nail in GELLUX Magenta Sparkles. Fill in the half moon, and cure.

4

Ready for something a bit bolder? Shenique Dawkins of Hard as Nails (@hardasnails.studio) brings us this graphic take on a classic French mani, with added sparkle.

STEP 3 Working in the opposite direction and starting half way up the nail, draw a diagonal blue line up to the tip and fill. Repeat twice.

STEP 4 STEP 1 Apply your base coat, followed by a layer of nude if you don’t want to use negative space.

Now it’s time to apply the nail art foils. Gently dab the foil glue onto the blue polish. Once the glue turns transparent, dab and rub the foil onto the nails.

STEP 2 Using a thin nail art brush draw a white line diagonally across the nails from base to tip and fill. Repeat this step.

STEP 5 Apply topcoat to finish.

5

GEOME TRIC SHAPES

Festive nails don’t have to mean all-out glitter.

We love this super chic look from Salon System’s Karen Louise (@karenlouisenail). Not too much for the office, but definitely still in the spirit of things!

STEP 1 Apply GELLUX Fast Bond and cap the edges. Apply two coats of GELLUX Cover Pink Base Coat, capping the edges and curing between each coat.

STEP 6 Add GELLUX Magenta Sparkles underneath the free edge of the nails, and cure.

STEP 2 Apply GELLUX Magenta Sparkles to the tips of the ring and index fingers to create a thin French tip, and cure.

42

STEP 7 Apply GELLUX Top Coat, making sure to cap the free edges and cure.

43

MAKE A S TATEMENT

For nails that demand to be taken out dancing, Salon System’s nail expert Julie-Anne Larivière (@jal.nailartist) shows us how to recreate this show-stopping look. Just add a little black dress and your client’s good to go!

STEP 1 Apply GELLUX Easy Off Base Coat. Cap the edges and cure.

STEP 2 Apply two layers of GELLUX Vampire Blood on the index and little fingers, curing in between each coat and then one layer of GELLUX Silver Mist on the middle finger, and cure.

2

5

STEP 5 Using a detail brush, create swirl patterns with the GELLUX Black Onyx, and cure. Then add some small dots to the nail and create a couple of stars on the ring finger, and cure.

©1976, 2019 SANRIO CO., LTD. USED UNDER LICENSE. ©2019 OPI PRODUCTS INC. • CALL 02039 015892 OR VISIT OPIUK.COM.

TH E C A PITA L CU T W I NTE R 2019

STEP 6

Create a deep French tip using GELLUX Vampire Blood on the middle finger, and cure.

Place a dollop of GELLUX Dazzle onto a palette. Using a fine liner brush, pick out the chunky pieces of glitter and apply one to the tip of the middle finger, a row of them to the tip of the little finger, and another at the base of the index finger. Then cure.

STEP 4

STEP 7

Outline the area above the French tip using a fine liner brush dipped in GELLUX Black Onyx, and cure.

Finish with GELLUX Shiny Top Coat, cap the free edges and cure.

STEP 3

Learn more Our Christmas Creative Lashes & Nails will have you feeling inspired and on-trend thanks to tons of demos and handson practice with some glamorous and sparkly looks. Plus, you’ll learn helpful tips and tricks on how to increase your turnover and speed up appointment times during this busy time.

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4

7 It’s time to celebrate the hello-days with the Hello Kitty Collection by OPI.

.

BACK BY POPULAR DEMAND...

LET’S BE FRIENDS!

shop these NEW limited edition shades in GEL COLOR

• INFINITE SHINE • NAIL LACQUER

opiuk.com • #OPIxHELLOKITTY • #COLOUR IS THE ANSWER

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TH E C A PITA L CU T W I NTE R 2019

LET’S

GET

S O C I A L

Loving what you’ve seen in this issue? Well, be sure to snap a selfie of you and the latest copy of Capital Hair and Beauty magazine and you might just bag yourself a freebie – just be sure to tag us on whichever platform you’re sharing your photo on!

PART Y LOOKS ON SHOW! We love being tagged in your work over on Instagram. Anytime you’ve created something new on someone’s nails, hair or face, let us know by tagging @capitalhair.

We want to share loads more of your work, so make sure we see it. If Insta’s not your thing, check out our Facebook page and post your work, or feel free to tag us on Twitter for a retweet. Right now we’re all about some sparkly nail art and wearable party hairstyles so get tagging!

Find us!

@capitalhair @capitalhairireland

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