Lonely Planet Bangkok lommekjent by Cappelen Damm AS

lommekjent

BANGKOK

BYENS BESTE • LOKALKJENT • HELT ENKELT

Austin Bush Oversatt av Lotte Holmboe

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17.09.15 14.12

Denne guiden inneholder Need to Know 17

16 Arriving in Bangkok

Your Daily Budget



Midrange 1500–3000B  Flashpacker guesthouse or midrange hotel room 800–1500B

Visas Most international air arrivals are eligible for a 30-day visa exemption; 60-day visas are available from a Thai consulate before leaving home.



Shophouse restaurant meals



Most, if not all, of the big sights



Fine dining



Private tours

Tipping Tipping is generally not expected in Thailand.

taxi, Airport Link (transfer to MRT)

Riverside, Silom & Lumphini

BK (bk.asia-city.com) Online version of Bangkok’s best listings magazine.

Plugs & Adaptors Plugs have two-prong round or at sockets; electrical current is 220V.

Best Transport taxi, bus 556

Chinatown

taxi, bus 29, train taxi, bus A1, A2 or 538 (transfer to BTS)

Riverside, Silom & Lumphini

taxi, bus A1 or A2 (transfer to BTS)

Three months before Book at a boutique hotel, especially for December or January.

N Chao Phraya Express Boat These boats (www.chaophrayaexpressboat. com.th) are a slow but steady way to visit the tourist sights along Mae Nam Chao Phraya.

Top Sights 9

JOHN BORTHWICK / GETTY IMAGES ©

Insider tips to help you nd the real city Don’t want to feel like a sheltered package holidaymaker? Rest assured that it’s a cinch to get local in Bangkok, a city where hectic tourist attractions often rub shoulders with classic local neighbourhoods.

Other great places to experience the CaptionCaption city like a local:

Above: Chao Phraya cruise; Below: Opera performer, Vegetarian Festival

SAMART BOON-YANG / GETTY IMAGES ©

Banglamphu Pub Crawl (p42)  Fun bars

 Live music

Jim Thompson House (p78)

7 Sanam Luang

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Saranrom Royal Garden

ya Phra

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8 Lak Meuang Cross the field and continue south along Th Ratchadamnoen Nai until you reach the home of the city spirit of Bangkok, Lak Meuang.

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Th Maha Rat

Trok Mahathat

Trok Tha Wang

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Th Maha

Exiting at Th Phra Chan, cross Th Maha Rat and continue east until you reach Sanam Luang, the ‘Royal Field’.

If you’ve still got the energy, head to adjacent Tha Tien to catch the cross-river ferry to Wat Arun (p32), one of the few Buddhist temples you’re encouraged to climb on.

Th Phra

Chai

4 Wat Mahathat Returning to Th Maha Rat, continue moving north. On your right is Wat Mahathat, one of Thailand’s most respected Buddhist universities.

The emergence of white-and-black uniforms is a clue you’re approaching Thammasat University, which is known for its law and political-science departments.

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Wang 9 # æ

Tha Wat Arun

10 æ #

Wat Arun (p32)

e # 00

200 m 0.1 mile

Byvandringer Opplev byen gatelangs

Don Muang International Airport  Bangkok’s former

hub, Don Muang International Airport (DMK; %0 2535 1111; www. donmuangairportonline.com), has been downgraded to the city’s de facto lowcost airport. It’s located about 20km north of the city centre; slow buses make the trip into town, but taxi is the most eﬃcient way to get to/ from the airport, and to central Bangkok should cost around 200B.

Hualamphong Train Station  Hualamphong Station (%0 2220 4334, call centre 1690; www.railway.co.th; oﬀ Th Phra Ram IV; mHua Lamphong exit 2) is the city’s main train terminal, and is linked to the MRT (metro) stop at Hua Lamphong.

Travel Passes

Both the BTS and MRT offer unlimited-ride one-day passes for 130B.

terminals are all located at diﬀerent ends of the city, and all most conveniently linked to the various parts of town by taxi.

 Northern & Northeastern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit; %northeastern routes 0 2936 2852, ext 602/605, northern routes 0 2936 2841, ext 325/614; Th Kamphaeng Phet; mKamphaeng Phet exit 1 & taxi, bMo Chit exit 3 & taxi)  Eastern Bus Terminal

(Ekamai; Map p120, G5; %0 2391 2504; Soi 40, Th Sukhumvit; bEkkamai exit 2)

 Southern Bus Terminal

(Sai Tai Mai; %0 2894 6122; Th Boromaratchachonanee)

 The elevated BTS (%0 2617 7300, tourist informa-

tion 0 2617 7340; www.bts. co.th), also known as the Skytrain, whisks you through ‘new’ Bangkok (Silom, Sukhumvit and Siam Sq). The interchange is at Siam station, and trains run frequently from 6am to midnight. Fares range from 15B to 52B. Most ticket machines only accept coins, but change is available at the information booths.  Bangkok’s metro, the

MRT (www.bangkokmetro. co.th) helps people who are staying in the Sukhumvit or Silom area reach Chinatown or the train station at Hualamphong. Fares cost 16B to 40B. The trains run frequently from 6am to midnight.

Taxi

Getting Around BTS & MRT

y Best for… Getting between points in central Bangkok and getting around during peak hours.

y Best for… Getting from one part of town to another at nonpeak hours.  Although many rst-

time visitors are hesitant to use them, in general, Bangkok’s taxis are new and comfortable and the drivers are courteous and helpful, making them an excellent way to get around.

 All taxis are required to

use their meters, which start at 35B, and fares to most places within central Bangkok cost 60B to 90B. Freeway tolls – 25B to 60B depending on where you start – must be paid by the passenger.  Taxi Radio (%1681; www.taxiradio.co.th) and other 24-hour ‘phonea-cab’ services are available for 20B above the metered fare; and Uber, GrabTaxi and other similar services are gaining popularity.

Boat

y Best for… Slowly but surely jumping between the tourist sights that are located in Banglamphu, Ko Ratanakosin and parts of Silom.  The Chao Phraya Express Boat (%0 2623

6001; www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com) runs from 6am to 10pm. You can buy tickets (10B to 40B) at the pier or on board; hold on to your ticket as proof of purchase. Boats with yellow or red-andorange ags are express boats. These run only on weekdays during peak times and don’t make every stop. A blueagged tourist boat runs

 Regional Thai food

Want a taste of provincial Thailand without leaving

Chao Phraya Dinner Cruise (p108)

 Dance clubs

Paragon Cineplex (p90)

 Live music

Hands-down the city’s premier nightlife strip; RCA’s clubs were formerly a teen scene, but the area has grown up in recent years. Today it draws a wide spectrum of partiers, not to mention a hearty selection of music, from live pop to big-name DJs.

Vegetarian Festival (p73) ThaiCraft Fair (p133) Raja’s Fashions (p134)

Best Temples 167

166 Best Temples

from Asiatique or Tha Sathon/Central Pier to Tha Phra Athit/Banglamphu with stops at major sightseeing piers and barely comprehensible English-language commentary.  There are also

dozens of cross-river ferries, which charge 3B and run every few minutes from approximately 6am to 9pm.

 Klorng (canal, also spelled khlong) taxi boats run along Khlong Saen Saeb (Banglamphu to Ramkhamhaeng) and are an easy way to get between Banglamphu and Jim Thompson House, the Siam Sq shopping centres and other points further east along Th Sukhumvit – after a mandatory change of boat at Pratunam Pier. These boats are mostly used by daily commuters and pull into the piers for just a few seconds – jump straight on or you’ll be left behind. Fares range from 10B to 20B and boats run from 5.30am to 8.30pm Monday to Friday, and from 6am to 7.15pm on weekends.

Best Temples A Thai temple (wát) is a compound of diﬀerent buildings serving specic religious functions. Even if you don’t consider yourself spiritual, Bangkok’s wát provide pleasures that range in scope from artistic inspiration to urban exploration. Thai Architecture Considered the highest art form in Thai society, traditional Thai temple architecture follows relatively strict rules of design that dictate proportion, placement, materials and ornamentation. In addition to the native Siamese styles of building, within Bangkok’s temples you’ll also find examples from historical Khmer, Mon, Lao and northern Thai traditions. Buddha Images Every wát in Bangkok has a Buddha image, which for the most part is sculpted according to strict iconographical rules found in Buddhist art texts dating to the 3rd century AD. There are four basic postures and positions: standing, sitting, walking and reclining. Temple Murals A variety of scenes from both secular and religious life embellish the inner walls of temples throughout Bangkok. Always instructional in intent, such painted images range from depictions of the Jatakas (life stories of the Buddha) to scenes from the Indian Hindu epic Ramayana.

Worth a Trip

Wat Arun (p32)

y�Top Tips  At many of Bangkok’s temples dress rules are strictly enforced, and if you’re wearing shorts or a sleeveless shirt, you will not be allowed into the temple grounds. This applies to men and women.  Shoes must be removed before entering any enclosed structure in a wát.

Best Temples

Wat Arun This predecessor to Bangkok is also one of the few Thai temples you’re allowed to climb on. (p32)

Wat Phra Kaew The granddaddy of Bangkok temples and the home of a certain Emerald Buddha. (p24)

Golden Mount & Wat Saket Hilltop temple with great views over old Bangkok. (p46)

Wat Pho If you haven’t seen the ginormous reclining Buddha here, you haven’t seen Bangkok. (p28)

Wat Mangkon Kamalawat The epitome of the hectic, smoky, noisy Chinese-style temple. (p68)

Wat Suthat Home to one of Thailand’s biggest Buddhas and equally impressive floor-to-ceiling temple murals. (p46) Wat Traimit Residence of the world’s largest golden Buddha. (p62)

Stupa Another classic component of Thai temple architecture is the presence of one or more stupa (chedi in Thai), a mountain-shaped monument that pays tribute to the enduring stability of Buddhism. Many stupas are said to contain ‘relics’ (pieces of bone) belonging to the historical Buddha.

Don’t have the time to see Thailand’s most famous temples? Then consider visiting scaleddown versions of them at Ancient City

เมืองโบราณ, Muang

(

Boran; www.ancientcity. com; 296/1 Th Sukhumvit, Samut Prakan; adult/child 500/250B;

h8am-5pm), allegedly the largest open-air museum in the world. Ancient City offers a free shuttle bus from Bearing BTS station, departing at 11.30am on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.

Bangkoks beste kafeer, barer, underholdning

Getting Around 175 Bus  Bangkok’s main bus

Victory Monument & Around (p94)  Live music

MBK Food Island (p86) Amulet Market (p39) Asia Herb Association (p129) Thanon Bamrung Meuang (p57)

a Wat Arun

6 æ #

University

Mae

Return to Th Maha Rat and proceed north, through a gauntlet of herbal apothecaries and sidewalk amulet sellers. After passing the cat-laden news-stand (you’ll know it when you smell it), turn left into Trok Tha Wang, a narrow alleyway holding a seemingly hidden classic Bangkok neighbourhood.

Then head south along Th Sanam Chai and turn right onto Th Thai Wang, which leads to the entrance of Wat Pho (p28), home of the giant reclining Buddha.

6 Thammasat

Th Sanam

An appropriately old-school lunch break can be had at the long-standing Thai restaurant Ming Lee (p37), located roughly across from the main entrance to Wat Phra Kaew & Grand Palace.

9 Wat Pho

Across the street, turn left into crowded Trok Mahathat to see the cramped Amulet Market (p39). As you continue north alongside the river, amulet vendors soon give way to food vendors.

Phra

3 Trok Tha Wang

Finish f Wat Arun Length 4km; three to four hours

5�Take a Break

5 Amulet Market

Th Na

& Grand Palace

Many places in Chinatown have neither roof nor menu, but it’s not unusual for locals to brave traffic, heat or rain for a meal here. Not surprisingly,

Bangkok? Head to this suburban ’hood known for its main landmark. Here you’ll find fun bars, live music and good food, from bars boasting wine and cheese to street-side stalls hawking northeastern Thai specialities – all served up without a hint of big-city pretension.

RCA (Royal City Avenue) (p116)

MIKEL BILBAO / GETTY IMAGES ©

2 Wat Phra Kaew Continue east to the main gate of Wat Phra Kaew & Grand Palace (p24), two of Bangkok’s most famous attractions.

 Urban exploration

Come night-time, gay visitors and locals alike flock to the side streets off lower Th Silom. The alternatives run the gamut from seedy go-go bars to sophisticated dance clubs – and just about everything in between.

GABRIEL PEREZ / GETTY IMAGES ©

Start f Tha Chang

Start at Tha Chang and follow Th Na Phra Lan east with a quick diversion to this institution, Thailand’s premier fine-arts university.

A Taste of Chinatown (p64)  Street food

Chinese-style dishes rule – think noodles, pork and fried dishes – but seafood, sweets and fruit also have their places.

Gay Silom (p98)  Gay bars

 Gay dance clubs

Lokalkjent Kjennernes Bangkok

Bangkok’s Birthplace 147 1 Silpakorn University

Best Walks Bangkok’s Birthplace 2�The Walk Most of Bangkok’s must-see spots are found in the former royal district, Ko Ratanakosin. This walk takes in all of them, plus some lower-key sights. It’s wisest to start early to beat the heat and get in before the hordes descend. Dress modestly in order to gain entry to the temples, and politely but firmly ignore any strangers who approach you offering advice on sightseeing or shopping (p178).

Bangkok’s most traditional ’hood is also one of its best for nightlife. Parts of Banglamphu can feel dominated by the backpacker magnet that is Th Khao San, but just off the main strip are heaps of bars and restaurants frequented mostly by young locals.

IGOR BILIC / GETTY IMAGES ©

PETER STUCKINGS / GETTY IMAGES ©

JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET / GETTY IMAGES ©

The eponymous American silk entrepreneur mysteriously disappeared in 1967. His Thai-style former home lives on as a visit-worthy repository for ageing local traditions and artwork.

Høydepunkter Få mest mulig ut av besøket

ANDREW WATSON / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Bangkok_459314_Lonely planet_NO15_book.indb 2

Local Life 13

Bangkok Local Life

At nearly 50m long and 15m high, it’s impossible not to be awed by Wat Pho’s reclining Buddha. If you require more than just girth, the grounds are also home to a traditional massage school.

174 Survival Guide

Praktiske tips og triks – bl.a. om hoteller

Sukhumvit (p118) Dominating the area east of central Bangkok is Sukhumvit, a busy commercial and residential neighbourhood with modern midrange hotels. It’s a favourite of expatriates and cosmopolitan Thais.

Riverside, Silom & Lumphini (p96) This is Bangkok’s de facto financial district, and most locals come here to work, while you’ll probably come to eat, play or stay.

Wat Pho (p28)

Wat Phra Kaew & Grand Palace (p24) Easily the most ostentatious temple in Thailand, Wat Phra Kaew blows minds with its blinged-out structures and Emerald Buddha. Next door, the Grand Palace is the equally decadent former residence of Thailand’s royal family.

Bangkok på sitt beste

Praktiske tips

Byens områder Hva du finner hvor

146

Tematiske lister over byens høydepunkter: Lett å planlegge!

Worth a Trip

E Top Sights Chatuchak Weekend Market Dusit Palace Park Ko Kret Ayuthaya

Wat Traimit # (Golden Buddha)

Bangkok’s buses (www.bmta.co.th) are a cheap but slow and confusing way to get around the city.

Det beste du kan se og gjøre, område for område

Siam Square, Pratunam & Ploenchit (p76) The area around Siam Square is essentially one giant shopping mall, and today is considered the unofficial centre of modern Bangkok. E Top Sights Jim Thompson House

Jim Thompson House #

E # EE Wat Pho

# Wat Arun

One month before Apply for a visa at the Thai embassy or consulate in your home country if you plan to stay longer than 30 days; make reservations at nahm (p105).

Bangkok Top Sights

Market

Chinatown (p60) Home to shark-fin restaurants, gaudy gold and jade shops, and flashing neon signs in Chinese characters, Chinatown is Bangkok's most hectic neighbourhood. E Top Sights Wat Traimit (Golden Buddha)

A week before Buy clothes appropriate for hot weather; book lessons at a Thai cooking school.

Opplev Bangkok

Chatuchak

# Weekend E

E Wat Phra Kaew & Grand Palace #

N Klorng Boat Bangkok’s canal boats are generally more useful for commuters than visitors. J Bus

Verdt å vite Tips for en best mulig reise

Banglamphu (p40) Despite being home to the intergalactic melting pot that is Th Khao San, this district of antique shophouses and temples remains the city’s most characteristically ‘Bangkok’ neighbourhood. Dusit Palace # Park

Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi (p22) Bangkok’s riverside historical centre includes the monuments to king, country and religion that draw most tourists. E Top Sights Wat Phra Kaew & Grand Palace Wat Pho Wat Arun

K Taxi Outside peak hours, Bangkok taxis are a great bargain.

Best Transport taxi, bus 59

Chinatown Siam Square

Advance Planning

Bangkok Neighbourhoods

m MRT Bangkok’s metro (www.bangkokmetro.co.th) is convenient, although not quite as expansive as the Skytrain network.

taxi, Airport Link (transfer to BTS) taxi, Airport Link (transfer to MRT or BTS)

Destination Banglamphu, Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi

Bangkok 101 (www.bangkok101.com) Tourist-friendly listings mag.

Neighbourhoods 19

b BTS The elevated Skytrain (www.bts.co.th) is probably the most efficient and convenient way to get around central Bangkok.

A From Don Muang International Airport (DMK)

Useful Websites Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/ bangkok) Info, hotel bookings and more.

Mobile Phones Thailand is on a GSM and 3G network through inexpensive prepaid SIM cards.

Destination Banglamphu, Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi

Siam Square

Top End more than 3000B Boutique hotel room from 2000B



Money ATMs are widespread and charge a 150B to 180B foreign-account fee. Visa and MasterCard are accepted at upmarket places.

Time Asia/Bangkok (GMT/UTC plus seven hours)

Bangkok’s public transport network is continually growing, but it is still relatively young, and getting to certain parts of the city – particularly the older areas – remains extremely time-consuming. The best strategy is usually to combine a longer trip on the BTS or MRT with a short taxi ride.

A From Suvarnabhumi International Airport (BKK)

Street-stall meals

 A couple of the big-hitter sights, supplemented with free temples and parks

Currency Thai baht (B) Language Thai

Getting Around

Suvarnabhumi is Bangkok’s primary international air hub and is located 25km east of the city centre. Don Muang, Bangkok’s low-cost terminal, is north of the city.

Budget less than 1500B  Dorm bed or basic guesthouse room 250–600B

For more information, see Survival Guide (p172)

Th Ratcha

Hjelp til å forstå Bangkok – hva du bør gjøre og hvordan

Before You Go

Need to Know

Lynguide til Bangkok

Motorcycle Taxi

y Best for... Getting to the end of a long street or getting somewhere in a hurry during peak hours.  Motorcycle taxis

(colloquially known as motorsai) serve two purposes in Bangkok. Most commonly and popularly they form an integral part of the public transport network, running from the corner of a main thoroughfare, such as Th Sukhumvit, to the far ends of soi that run oﬀ that thoroughfare. Riders wear coloured vests that are numbered and gather at either end of their soi, usually charging 10B to 20B for the trip (without a helmet unless you ask for one).

 Their other purpose is as a means of beating the traﬃc. You tell your rider where you want to go, negotiate a price (from 20B for a short trip up to about 150B for going across town), strap on the helmet (they will insist for longer trips) and say a prayer to whichever god you’re into.

176 Survival Guide Túk-Túk

y Best for… Short hops within a neighbourhood.  These putt-putting

three-wheeled vehicles are irresistible touristtraps – they’ll zip you to an overpriced tailor or jeweller regardless of your stated destination. Refuse to enter any unrequested shop, and skip the 10B sightseeing oﬀers.

Bus

y Best for… Reaching Banglamphu, Dusit and other areas not serviced by the BTS or MRT.  Bangkok’s public buses are run by the Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (%0 2246 0973; www.bmta.co.th). As the routes are not always

clear, and with Bangkok taxis being such a good deal, you’d really have to be pinching pennies to rely on buses as a way to get around Bangkok. However, if you’re determined, air-con bus fares range from 11B to 30B, and fares for fan-cooled buses start at 7B or 8B. Most of the bus lines run between 5am and 10pm or 11pm.

Essential Information 177

Essential Information

Electricity

Business Hours

y Top Tip Although most Bangkok banks close by 3.30pm, those in shopping centres and tourist areas are often open longer hours (generally until 8pm), including weekends. Banks From 9.30am to 3.30pm Monday to Friday. Bars & Clubs Open until midnight or 1am, although those in designated entertainment zones may stay open until 2am.

Emergency

y Top Tip Although Thailand has a medical emergency number (%191), it’s probably best to call a hospital direct, and it will dispatch an ambulance.  Tourist Police (%24hr hotline 1155) The best way to deal with most problems requiring police (usually a rip-oﬀ or theft) is to contact the tourist police, who can generally communicate in English, are used to dealing with foreigners and can be very helpful in cases of arrest.

220V/50Hz

Restaurants Local Thai places often serve food from morning until night (10am to 8pm or 9pm), while more formal restaurants serve only during lunch (from around 11am to 2pm) and dinner (6pm to 10pm).

Money

y Top Tip Tipping is not a traditional part of Thai life; except in big hotels and posh restaurants, tips are appreciated but not expected. Currency  The basic unit of Thai

currency is the baht. There are 100 satang in one baht.

 Coins come in denom-

inations of 25 satang, 50 satang, 1B, 2B, 5B and 10B.

Shops Large shops usually open from 10am to 7pm; shopping centres open until 10pm.

 Paper currency comes

220V/50Hz

in denominations of 20B (green), 50B (blue), 100B (red), 500B (purple) and 1000B (beige).

ATMs y Top Tip You won’t need a map to nd an ATM in Bangkok – they’re literally everywhere.  ATMs accept major

international credit cards and many will also cough up cash (Thai baht only) if your card is aﬃliated with the international Cirrus or Plus networks (typically for a fee ranging from 150B to 180B).

 You can withdraw a

maximum of 20,000B per day from most ATMs. Credit Cards

 Credit cards as well as

debit cards can be used for purchases at many shops and pretty much any hotel or restaurant, though you’ll have to pay cash for your pàt tai.

 The most commonly

accepted cards are Visa and MasterCard, followed by Amex and JCB.

cheques receive better rates than cash.  British pounds, Australian dollars, Singapore dollars and Hong Kong dollars are also widely accepted.

Public Holidays Government offices and banks close their doors on the following national public holidays. For the precise dates of lunar holidays, see the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) website, www. tourismthailand.org/ See-and-Do/Events-andFestivals. 1 January New Year’s Day February (date varies) Makha Bucha Day, Buddhist holy day 6 April Chakri Day, commemorates the founding of the royal Chakri dynast

Money Changers

13–15 April Songkran Festival, Thai New Year and water festival

 Banks or legal money

1 May Labor Day

changers oﬀer the optimum foreign-exchange rates.

 When buying baht, US

dollars and euros are the most readily accepted currencies; travellers

5 May Coronation Day, commemorating the 1946 coronation of the current king and queen May/June (date varies) Visakha Bucha Day, Buddhist holy day

Komme seg rundt Viktig informasjon som lokalbefolkningen om åpningstider, etc.

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Lonely Planets Bangkok

Lonely Planets Lommekjentguider er spesiallagd for å ta deg rett til hjertet av byen. 5 Spise Her finner du severdighetene du bare må få med deg, samt 6 Drikke tipsene som gjør besøket 3 Underholdning ekstra minneverdig. Vi har delt byen opp i områder det 7 Shopping er enkelt å manøvrere i, med et brukervennlig kart for hvert av områdene. Lonely Planets ekspertforfatter har sjekket Disse symbolene gir deg praktisk ut alt det beste ved byen: informasjon om de anbefalte stedene: byvandringer, mat, natteliv % Telefonnummer c Familievennlig og shopping, for å nevne h Åpningstider # Kjæledyrvennlig # £ noe. Lommekjent-sidene 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 p Parkering g Buss # ¡ 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 hvisker deg i øret hva som er 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 n Ikke-røyk f Ferge 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 ekstra genuint og spennende 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 i Internett-tilgang 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 #m Metro £ A B C0 D 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 å utforske. W Wi-Fi-tilgang b Skytrain (BTS) 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 19 Her får du selvsagt de nød v Vegetariske retter j Trikk 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0000ý 0 0 0 0 # vendige, praktiske tipsene på menyen d Tog0000 0 0 0 0 R0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 E Engelskspråklig meny 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 for at alt skal gå som smurt A 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 u be0 0 0 0 00 0 0 underveis: reiserute-forslag, 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 liens r 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 s Ita hvordan komme seg 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 d de rundt, Opéra 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 B 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 hvor 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 00Drikke 00 63 mye driks du bør gi på Finn hver anbefaling kjapt – 0 på0 kart 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 #00 ¡ 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 ulike steder. 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 for hvert område: 0 0 0 0 Rd Pl de Boka er din garanti for de s 0 00 00 00 00 00 0 0 0 iskremen # þ tor, til 03.00 lør, pianobar 22.00–02.00 verkene, ciogne e S og de ikke-søte ufre 0 0 R du store opplevelsene. èzpå stedet. Noen av stir–tor, Catilp03.00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0 00 0 lages Opéra) virkelig fre og lør; ml'Opéra delikatessene

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The Louvre & Les Halles

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Lynguide til Bangkok

Høydepunkter........................ 8 Lokalkjent.............................. 12 På fire dager......................... 14 Verdt å vite............................ 16 Kart: byens områder........... 18

Opplev Bangkok

Ko Ratanakosin og Thonburi

Banglamphu

Chinatown

Siam-plassen, Pratunam og Ploenchit

Elvekanten, Silom og Lumphini

118

Sukhumvit

Verdt en avstikker: Dusit slottspark ��58 Seiersmonumentet og rundt ��94 RCA (Royal City Avenue) ��116 Chatuchak helgemarked ��136 Ayuthaya ��140 Ko Kret ��142

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Bangkok på sitt beste

145

Byens beste vandringer Bangkoks fødested �� 146 Arkitektur langs elven �� 148 Det hemmelige Chinatown �� 150

Praktiske tips

171

Før du drar.......................... 172 Ankomst i Bangkok........... 173 Komme seg rundt.............. 174 Viktig info A–Å.................... 176 Språk................................... 181

Byens beste Shopping ��152 Bedre middager �� 154 Museer ��155 Etnisk kokekunst �� 156 Danseklubber ��157 Gatemat �� 158 Takbarer �� 160 For barn �� 161 Massasje og spa �� 162 Aktiviteter �� 164 Matlagingskurs �� 165 Templer �� 166 Det skeive Bangkok �� 168 Livemusikk ��170

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Lynguide til Bangkok Høydepunkter ��8 Lokalkjent �� 12 På fire dager �� 14 Verdt å vite �� 16 Kart: byens områder �� 18

Velkommen til Bangkok I Bangkok ligger kjøpesentre i gigaformat side om side med 200 år gamle bolighus. Templer kjemper om plassen med neonbelyste horegater, og barer på toppen av skyskrapere har vinduer med utsikt mot matkjerrer som står langs gatene. Mens Bangkok raser mot fremtiden, vil disse ved varende kontrastene fortsette å gi byen sine unike former for thai-preg.

Gatehelligdom i Bangkok

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Bangkok Høydepunkter Wat Phra Kaew og Storpalasset (s. 24) Wat Phra Kaew er uten tvil Thailands mest prangende tempelanlegg, og over velder med Smaragd-buddhaen og bygninger i bling-stil. Ved siden av ligger Stor palasset, den like overdådige, tidligere residensen til Thailands kongefamilie.

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Høydepunkter 9 Wat Pho (s. 28) Den er nesten 50 meter lang og 15 meter høy, så det er umulig ikke å la seg imponere av Wat Phos hvilende buddha. Hvis du er ute etter mer enn ren størrelse, ligger det også en tradisjonell massasjeskole på området.

Jim Thompson House (s. 78)

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Den amerikanske silke handleren ved samme navn som bodde her, forsvant under mystiske omstendigheter i 1967. Hans gamle hjem i thaistil lever videre som et besøksverdig tilholds sted for gamle lokale tradisjoner og håndverk.

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10 Høydepunkter Chatuchak helge marked (s. 136)

I en by som er besatt av handel, tar Chatuchak kaka som Bangkoks største og villeste marked. Silke, joggesko, kampfisk og kosete valper – hvis det selges i Thailand, vil du helt sikkert finne det her.

Wat Arun (s. 32)

Det er ikke gullet eller buddha-statuene, men den fine beliggenheten ved elven, som lokker flest folk hit. Og det er ikke rart – utsikten er fantastisk og Wat Arun er et av få templer turister har lov til å klatre på.

Ko Kret (s. 142)

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Legg byen bak deg på denne kunstige øya, som likevel har en skikkelig landlig stemning, i Mae Nam Chao Phraya. Dra hit i helgen og kombiner utflukten din med det travle friluftsmarkedet og unike matretter.

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Høydepunkter 11 Wat Traimit (Gullbuddhaen) (s. 62)

Alt gullet i Chinatown (og tro oss, der er det mye av det) til sammen ville neppe vært nok til å gjenskape denne nesten seks tonn tunge buddha-figuren i rent gull. La haka henge i kne høyde i dette tempelet i Bangkoks Chinatown.

Dusit slottspark (s. 58)

Se hvordan viktoriansk fornuft og thailandske følelser flettes sammen i denne gamle kongelige enklaven. Besøk museene og verdens største teak bygning, eller bare nyt Dusit slottsparks grønne omgivelser – de er uvanlige nok her.

Ayuthaya (s. 140)

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Ruinene av den en gang så dekadente hoved staden i Siam er i dag et UNESCO Verdensarvsted. Du bør absolutt dra hit på en lettvint dagstur fra Bangkok.

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Bangkok Lokalkjent

Har du ikke lyst til å føle deg som en overbeskyttet pakketurist? Heldigvis er det en smal sak å bli lokalkjent i Bangkok, en by der hektiske turistattraksjoner ofte ligger rett ved siden av tradisjonelle, lokale bolighus og butikklokaler.

Fra pub til pub i Banglamphu (s. 42) XX Morsomme barer XX Livemusikk

Bangkoks mest tradisjonel le strøk har også et av de beste nattåpne utestedene. Deler av Banglamphu er dominert av backpacker magneten Th Khao San, men like ved ligger masse barer og restauranter fulle av unge bangkokere.

En smak av Chinatown (s. 64) XX Gatemat

XX Urban utforsking

Skeive Silom (s. 98) XX Homsebarer

XX Danseklubber for homofile

Om kvelden strømmer homofile tilreisende og bangkokere til sidegatene ved nedre Th Silom. Alter nativene dekker hele spek teret, fra slibrige go-gobarer til sofistikerte danse klubber – og nærmest hva som helst imellom.

Seiersmonumentet og rundt (s. 94) XX Livemusikk

XX Regional thaimat

Vil du ha en smak av utkant-Thailand uten å forlate Bangkok? Dra til denne forstaden, som er

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oppkalt etter bydelens fremste landemerke. Her er det morsomme barer, livemusikk og god mat, fra barer med ost og vin til gateboder som tilbyr spesialiteter fra nord øst – alt serveres uten det minste hint av storby snobberi.

RCA (Royal City Avenue) (s. 116) XX Danseklubber XX Livemusikk

Uten tvil byens fremste nattelivsgate. RCAs klub ber var tidligere dominert av tenåringer, men de senere årene er områ det blitt mer voksent. I dag er det et yndet sted blant mange forskjellige festløver. Musikken varierer fra pop til store DJ-er.

Mange spisesteder i China town har verken tak eller meny, men lokalbefolk ningen trosser gjerne trafikk, hete og regn for å spise her. Ikke overras kende dominerer kinesisk

mat – nudler, svin og frityr – men det er også plass til sjømat, søtsaker og frukt.

Tips fra de som kjenner byen best

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Andre fine steder hvor man kan opp CaptionCaption leve byen som lokal befolkningen:

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Vegetarianer festivalen (s. 73) ThaiCraft Fair (s. 133) Raja’s Fashions (s. 134)

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