Lonely planet Lisboa lommekjent by Cappelen Damm AS

lommekjent

LISBOA

BYENS BESTE • LOKALTIPS • HELT ENKELT

Kerry Christiani Oversatt av Lotte Holmboe

Lisboa_materie.indb 1

29.01.16 10.41

Denne guiden inneholder Need to Know 17

Hjelp til å forstå Lisboa – hva du bør gjøre og hvordan

Before You Go

Need to Know

Lynguide til Lisboa

Arriving in Lisbon

Your Daily Budget

Currency Euro (€) Language Portuguese Visas EU nationals need no visa. US, Canadian, Australian and New Zealand visitors can stay for up to 90 days without a visa. Money ATMs widely available. Credit cards generally accepted, but cash preferred in some small shops and restaurants. Ask first. Mobile Phones European and Australian mobile phones work. US visitors should check with their service provider. Cut the cost of roaming charges by buying a local SIM card. Time Lisbon is on GMT/UTC. Plugs & Adaptors Plugs have two round pins; electrical current is 220V. North American, UK, Australian and Canadian visitors will need an adaptor.

X Plan sightseeing around free admission days (usually Sunday mornings)

Meal in a midrange restaurant €20–30

Destination

Walking or cycling tour of the city €15–35

Rossio & Restau- AeroBus (line 1), radores metro

Top end more than €150 Boutique hotel room from €120

X X

Three-course dinner with wine from €50

Night at a fado club €50

Praça do Comércio

Useful Websites Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/lisbon) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

Spotted by Locals (www.spottedbylocals. com/lisbon) Insider tips.

Advance Planning

Tipping Tip 5% to 10% if you are satisfied with the service. Serviço (service charge) is usually only included in the bill at top-end restaurants.

Cais do Sodré

AeroBus (line 1), metro

Oriente

AeroBus (line 2), metro, bus 708

For sightseeing on the go, you can’t beat Lisbon’s trams. Tram 28 is the star route, trundling through Baixa, Alfama, Bairro Alto and Estrela, and affording great views. Other useful routes include tram 15 (for Belém and Alcântara). Single tickets cost €2.85.

A few days before Check out what’s happening on event websites and bone up on your Portuguese wine knowledge on www. viniportugal.pt.

ALIJA/GETTY IMAGES ©

BRENT WINEBRENNER/GETTY IMAGES ©

Pass through the triumphal Arco da Vitória onto the main thoroughfare, Rua Augusta, buzzing with street entertainers and shoppers. From here, explore backstreets like old-fashioned Rua da Conceição (p45).

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From Lisbon Airport

y Top Tip For the best way to reach your accommodation, see p17. ¨ The airport is con-

nected to central Lisbon by metro (a single costs €1.40). It is the terminus of the red line.

¨ The AeroBus (www.

yellowbustours.com; one-way €3.50) departs from outside the arrivals hall roughly every 20 minutes from 7am to 11pm. It goes via Marquês de Pombal, Avenida da Liberdade, Restauradores, Rossio and Praça do Comércio

Lisbon should cost around €15, plus €1.60 for luggage. Avoid queues by flagging one down at the departures hall.

¨ Metro services run

every few minutes, providing speedy connections to central Lisbon. A single ticket costs €1.40 to anywhere in the city.

¨ Santa Apolónia is on the

blue line, one stop from Terreiro do Paço (Praça do Comércio), the heart of downtown Lisbon.

From Gare do Oriente ¨ The ultramodern Gare do Oriente is on the red metro line, which provides quick and frequent connections to central Lisbon. ¨ Baixa-Chiado in central Lisbon is a 20-minute metro ride away. Change for the green line at Alameda. ¨ Bus services linking Gare do Oriente to central Lisbon include the 708 to Martim Moniz (via the airport). Single tickets cost €1.80.

Getting Around Metro

Tickets & Passes

There are two useful cards for catching public transport around the city; both can be purchased from kiosks in the metro stations. Viva Viagem Costs 50¢, to which you can then add credit in various denominations. Select the ‘add credit’ option, rather than a single trip (only valid for the metro), which allows the card to be used on the metro, buses, trams and funiculars. 24-hour Carris/metro pass Costs €6 and allows unlimited travel over a 24-hour period on all buses, trams, funiculars and the metro.

y Best for… Short hops and to reach Parque das Nações. ¨ Compact and easy to navigate, the Lisbon Metro (www.metrolisboa. pt) has just four lines: red, green, yellow and blue. ¨ The metro runs from

6.30am to 1am.

¨ Buy tickets from the machines at metro stations; a single costs €1.40.

¨ Validate your ticket at the station entrance. ¨ Useful signs include ‘correspondência’ (transfer between lines) and ‘saída’ (exit to the street).

Tram, Bus & Funicular

y Best for… Sightseeing as you go from A to B. ¨ Carris (www.carris.pt)

operates all transport except the metro.

¨ Buses and trams run from about 5am or 6am to 1am; there are some night bus and tram services. ¨ Pick up a transport map from tourist offices or Carris kiosks, which are dotted around the city. The Carris website has timetables and route details. ¨ Individual tickets cost €1.80 on buses, €2.85 on trams; they can be purchased on board. Buy 24hour Carris passes (€6) from ticket machines or kiosks at metro stations. ¨ A return funicular journey costs €3.60, except the Elevador de Santa Justa, which costs €5. ¨ Always validate your ticket.

Bicycle

y Best for… Free-wheeling along the riverfront.

may also close for lunch (1pm to 3pm). Monday is the day of rest for most museums – check the opening hours we give in specific reviews.

¨ Traffic, trams, hills and cobbles make cycling a challenging prospect. There are pleasant rides along a new bike lane beside the Rio Tejo, however.

Bars Cafes

8am-midnight

Taxi

Clubs

11pm-6am Thu-Sat

¨ Taxis in Lisbon are plentiful. Try the ranks at Rossio and Praça dos Restauradores, near stations and ferry terminals, or call Rádio Táxis (%218 119 000; www.taxislisboa.pt).

Shops

y Best for… Short hops and journeys involving luggage.

¨ The fare on the meter should read €2.50 (daytime flag fall). ¨ You will be charged extra for luggage and 20% more for journeys from 9pm to 6am.

Essential Information Business Hours

y Top Tip Many shops close on Sundays and some shut early on Saturdays; small boutiques

Best Tram & Funicular Rides

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Best Hands-On Fun Oceanário Sharks, sea otters and weird and wonderful fish splash around at Europe’s second-largest aquarium. Pavilhão do Conhecimento Physics is (finally) a bundle of laughs at this hands-on science centre. Castelo de São Jorge A whopper of a castle with

ramparts for exploring and a hair-raising history.

Best Museums Museu de Marinha Kids can embark on their own voyage of discovery at this barge-stuffed museum.

that are pure Cinderella stuff. Museu da Marioneta Kids love the worldly puppets at this Geppetto’s workshop of a museum.

Best Outdoors Jardim Botânico Tropical Cool off with your kids in the shade of these botanical gardens in Belém, home to sprawling banyan trees and friendly ducks. Jardins d’Água The splashy fun is endless at these water gardens in Parque das Nações. Jardim da Estrela Lowkey park with duck ponds and an animal-themed playground.

Vintage trams are to Lisbon what the red doubledecker is to London and the gondola to Venice. Much more than a way of getting from A to B, these rides are whistle-stop city tours and a flashback to late-19th-century life. Century-old funiculars breeze up Lisbon’s hills, emerging within minutes at viewpoints where the entire city spreads out photogenically before you. Lisbon’s Trams Planning a trip on tram 28? Begin where the tram starts on Largo Martim Moniz to stand a chance of getting a seat in the wood-panelled carriage. Among the city’s other attractive, lesser-known tram rides are the circular route from Praça da Figueira, taking in Alfama views from Largo das Portas do Sol and Sé (cathedral); tram 18 from Rua Alfândega to the Palácio da Ajuda via Alcântara; and tram 15 from Praça da Figueira, which trundles along the riverfront to Belém. A day travel pass (€6), which you can purchase from metro stations, gives you the freedom to hop on and off as you please and covers all trams and funiculars.

Best Tram Ride

Best Funiculars

Tram 28 Lisbon’s oldtime tram rattles past some of the city’s most iconic landmarks – from Sé to the Basílica da Estrela.

Elevador de Santa Justa Ride this neoGothic wonder, designed by Eiffel’s protégé, for 360-degree city views. (pictured above;)

Elevador da Bica Enjoy snapshot views of the river on the steep ascent of Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo aboard this 1892 funicular. Elevador da Glória This funicular has been clanking uphill from Praça dos Restauradores to Miradouro São Pedro de Alcântara since 1885.

Museu Nacional dos Coches Royal coaches

Byens beste kafeer, barer, underholdning …

149 to Cais do Sodré (25 to 35 minutes). The ticket gives free passage on the city bus network for the rest of the day. ¨ A taxi into central

From Estação Santa Apolónia

Ginjinha

Best Tram & Funicular Rides 141

Kids in Tow Travelling with a family can quickly add up, but Lisbon has some excellent deals for those in the know. Many museums and sights offer free entry for under-12s or under-14s, while those under 18 get a 50% discount. Hotels are usually well geared to families and many will squeeze in a cot at no extra charge. We’re not going to deny it: the cobblestones make pushchairs hard work, but getting around on public transport is a breeze and under-fours travel free. Kids are welcome in nearly all restaurants and meia dose (small portions) are ideal for little appetites.

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When you hit Rua de Santa Justa, swing left for the neo-Gothic Ele-vador de Santa Justa , Lisbon’s only vertical street lift. Enjoy 360-degree views from the viewing platform.

Turn right and follow the trams along elegant Rua de São Paulo for a ride on the 1892 Ele-vador da Bica . Descend Rua Marechal Saldanha to Miradouro de Santa Catarina for sunset views of the river.

Cross the square to Rua da Trindade and the 1864 Casa do Ferreira das Tabuletas, where the trompe l’œil azulejos (hand-painted tiles) depict allegorical figures and the elements.

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Have Your Cake

Best For Kids Keeping the kids amused in Lisbon is child’s play. Even the everyday can be incredibly exciting: custard tarts for breakfast, rickety rides on vintage trams and Willy Wonka–like funiculars. Then there is the castle straight from the pages of a story book, swashbuckling tales of great navigators in Belém, riverside parks and nearby beaches for free play. As cities go, this is kid heaven.

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BAIRRO ALTO

Exploring the Avenida

140 Best For Kids

9 Santa Catarina

das Tabuletas

6 Largo do Carmo Behind the train station, Calçada do Carmo climbs to Chiado’s Lar-

3 Elevador de

Coffee Culture Cristo Rei

8 Rua Serpa Pinto Follow the road south, past the 18th-century opera house Teatro Nacional de São Carlos . Further on is modern art gallery Museu do Chiado .

7 Casa do Ferreira

R do Alecrim

2 Rua Augusta

LX Factory Biking the Tejo Shop ’n’ Stroll Mercado da Ribeira

Tune into Lisbon’s hottest nightlife scene in the grim-turned-glam neighbourhood of Cais do Sodré. A makeover has revamped the formerly red-light Rua Nova do Carvalho, whose bordellochic bars and burlesque clubs are now the place to be after midnight.

Lokalkjent Kjennernes Lisboa

go do Carmo, where jacaranda trees shade pavement cafes and the 18th-century Chafariz do Carmo fountain. Rising above it are the ethereal arches of the ruined Convento do Carmo .

5 Rossio Head straight onto Rossio , one of Lisbon’s grandest squares with its wavelike cobbles, fountains, neoclassical theatre and neo-Manueline Estação do Rossio (p47).

Cç do Carm o

Enjoy coffee and cake on the terrace of Confeitaria Nacional . Across the way from the Casa do Ferreira das Tabuletas, the Royale Café has a vine-clad courtyard for a relaxed lunch.

to Praça da Figueira for castle views from below. The square is rimmed with cafes and old-school stores.

Slip back to an age where purchases were still hand-wrapped, shop owners knew customers by name and stores traded solely in tinned fish, buttons and bowler hats

Alfama (p62)

Cais do Sodré Bar Crawl X Postmidnight parties

VISIONS OF OUR LAND/GETTY IMAGES ©

Length 4.5km; 3½ hours

5 Take a Break

At Lisbon’s riverside gateway, Praça do Comércio , trams rumble past palatial facades, arcades and a gallant equestrian statue of Dom José I. Nip into ViniPortugal to taste Portuguese wines for €2.

X Old-world shops X Backstreets

Other great places and ways to experience the city like a local:

Street dining in Cais do Sodré (p26)

in the winding laneways of Baixa and Rossio. At dusk, toast the past Lisbon-style with ginjinha (cherry liqueur).

X Bar-hopping

PAUL BERNHARDT/GETTY IMAGES ©

Start Praça do Comércio; mTerreiro do Paço Finish Santa Catarina; U28

1 Praça do Comércio

Baixa Back in Time

JOE DANIEL PRICE/GETTY IMAGES ©

KEVIN FOY/ALAMY ©

MARTIN CHILD/GETTY IMAGES ©

Lisboa_materie.indb 2

X Magical views

X Hidden laneways

Delve into the disorientating alleys of Moorish Alfama and who knows

Baixa to Santa Catarina 129

Best Walks Baixa to Santa Catarina 2 The Walk

Arriving in Lisbon

Praktiske tips og triks – om bl.a. hoteller

Alfama Backstreets

what you might find? Chefs firing up their barbecues, kids playing in front of sun-bleached chapels, impromptu fado gigs. Alfama – and neighbouring Castelo and Graça – will leave you smitten with their hidden nooks, castle-facing miradouros (viewpoints) and tangible sense of history.

BJANKA KADIC/ALAMY ©

PAOLO QUERCI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PAUL BERNHARDT/GETTY IMAGES ©

Sintra’s Unesco World Heritage palace is pure fairy-tale stuff. Moorish, Manueline and Italian Renaissance styles mingle in halls flamboyantly adorned with azulejos (some of Portugal’s oldest), frescoes and intricately carved woodwork.

148 Survival Guide

Praktiske tips

X Art & design

X People-watching cafes

Easygoing Príncipe Real provides a satisfying slice of daily life in leafy squares, avant-garde design shops, fashion boutiques and retro-cool cafes. Sights are few, but this area is full of creative verve and bohemian flair, making it perfect for a lazy brunch or afternoon mooch.

Palácio Nacional de Sintra

KEN WELSH/GETTY IMAGES ©

Tematiske lister over byens høydepunkter. Lett å planlegge!

True, the castle is grand, but there’s more to Lisbon than a handful of icons. Once you’ve visited the show-stoppers, it’s time to explore labyrinthine Moorish alleyways, arty enclaves, old-fashioned stores and one-of-a-kind bars: the Lisbon locals know and love.

Strolling Príncipe Real

Høydepunkter Få mest mulig ut av besøket

Lisboa på sitt beste

Local Life 13

Lisbon Local Life

Housed in a meticulously restored Manueline convent, this out-of-theway museum is an ode to the azulejo (tile), with its peerless collection of geometric HispanoMoorish tiles, Renaissance hunting scenes and a standout baroque panel of pre-1755 Lisbon.

Arte Antiga

Shopping in Baixa’s old-world stores, culture in Chiado’s museums, captivating sunset views from Santa Catarina – it’s all packed into this ‘greatest hits’ tour of downtown Lisbon. This afternoon walk gives you a palpable sense of Lisbon’s history – on Baixa’s regal plazas, in Pombaline backstreets built in the wake of the 1755 earthquake, and in literary-flavoured cafes, where poets like Fernando Pessoa once hung out.

Praça Praça do do Comércio Comércio

Alfama, Alfama, Castelo Castelo & & GraçaGraça (p58)(p58) Discover Discover fado, fado, characterful characterful backstreets backstreets and high-rise and high-rise viewpoints viewpoints in this in trio this of trio of castle-crowned castle-crowned neighbourhoods. neighbourhoods. E Top ESights Top Sights Castelo Castelo de Sãode Jorge São Jorge

BaixaBaixa & Rossio & Rossio (p40)(p40) The city's The spiritual city's spiritual heart heart captivates captivates with itswith its must-see must-see sightssights and and handsome handsome plazas,plazas, old- oldschoolschool speciality speciality shops shops and little andginjinha little ginjinha bars. bars. E Top ESights Top Sights Praça Praça do Comércio do Comércio

Insider tips to help you find the real city

Museu Nacional do Azulejo

128

E E

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What do you do if you’re a billionaire art collector? If you’re José Berardo, you build one of Lisbon’s foremost contemporary galleries, fill it with Warhol, Man Ray, Picasso and Miró masterpieces and, as a nice gesture, make it free to visit.

Convento do Carmo

Lisbon’s most remarkable ancient art collection takes shelter in a 17thcentury palace. Albrecht Dürer’s St Jerome, Nuno Gonçalves’ magnum opus Panels of St Vincent and the gold monstrance of Belém are the stars of the show.

1 1 1 1

E E E E

E E

Top Sights 11

Museu Nacional de

MuseuMuseu Nacional Nacional # # do Azulejo do Azulejo

Convento Convento de de # Castelo # Castelo do Carmo do Carmo São Jorge São Jorge # #

Berardo Berardo

Museu Colecção Berardo

Neither time nor the ravages of natural disaster have been able to wipe away the spirit of this Gothic convent, founded for the Carmelite Order in 1389 and reduced to enigmatic ruins in the 1755 earthquake.

E E

Bairro Bairro Alto & Alto & Chiado Chiado (p22)(p22) BrowseBrowse boutique boutique shops,shops, ride vintage ride vintage funiculars funiculars to miradouros to miradouros and hitand hit Lisbon's Lisbon's most most happening happening bars inbars these in these centralcentral neighbourhoods. neighbourhoods. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 E Top ESights Top1Sights 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 do 1 1Carmo 1 1 1 1 Convento Convento do Carmo

Byens områder Hva du finner hvor

Gulbenkian

Opplev Lisboa

E E

Oceanário Oceanário # #

Mosteiro Mosteiro dos dos # Jerónimos # Jerónimos E E # Museu # Museu E E Colecção Colecção

Verdt å vite Tips for en best mulig reise

Vast and fascinating, this is an arts collection you can dip into time and again. Treasures reach from Dutch Master paintings to Egyptian reliefs, Monet originals to René Lalique jewellery.

MuseuMuseu # Calouste # Calouste Gulbenkian Gulbenkian

MuseuMuseu Nacional Nacional de Arte deAntiga Arte Antiga # #

H Bicycle The cycling path that shadows the Rio Tejo is a scenic way to see the city. Guided bike tours are another possibility. Cobbles and hills make cycling in the centre a slog at times.

Two weeks before Buy tickets for gigs and reserve a table in a fado club.

Estrela, Estrela, Lapa Lapa & & Alcântara Alcântara (p110) (p110) A world-class A world-class ancient ancient art museum, art museum, streetsstreets with low-key, with low-key, leafy leafy charmcharm and dockside and dockside nightlife nightlife enticeentice in these in these neighbourhoods. neighbourhoods. E Top ESights Top Sights MuseuMuseu Nacional Nacional de Artede Arte AntigaAntiga

E Top ESights Top Sights Mosteiro Mosteiro dos Jerónimos dos Jerónimos MuseuMuseu Colecção Colecção Berardo Berardo

K Taxi There are taxi ranks at Rossio and Praça dos Restauradores, and near stations and ferry terminals. The flag fall is €2.50 (check the meter). Surcharges apply after 9pm and for carrying luggage.

One month before Book top-end restaurants, theatre and opera tickets, and excursions. Brush up on your Portuguese.

Parque Parque das Nações das Nações (p88)(p88) This riverside This riverside districtdistrict shinesshines with outdoor with outdoor art, art, futuristic futuristic architecture architecture and Europe's and Europe's second-biggest second-biggest aquarium. aquarium. E Top ESights Top Sights Oceanário Oceanário

Marquês Marquês de de Pombal, Pombal, Rato Rato & & Saldanha Saldanha (p98)(p98) Top-drawer Top-drawer museums, museums, pristine pristine gardens gardens and and some of some Lisbon's of Lisbon's best best restaurants restaurants lure you lure you north to north these to these lesser-known lesser-known neighbourhoods. neighbourhoods.

E Top ESights Top Sights MuseuMuseu Calouste Calouste Gulbenkian Gulbenkian

Belém Belém (p76)(p76) Manueline Manueline monuments, monuments, a Unesco-listed a Unesco-listed monastery monastery and and contemporary contemporary art await art await in thisin nautical-flavoured this nautical-flavoured neighbourhood neighbourhood by theby the river. river.

J Bus Lisbon’s buses are your best bet for reaching neighbourhoods further out. Useful routes include bus 758 Cais do Sodré to Benfica via Rato and Príncipe Real. Avoid rush hour if you can. Single tickets cost €1.80.

10 Top Sights

Det beste du kan se og gjøre, område for område

Worth Worth a Tripa Trip E Top ESights Top Sights Tram 28 Tram 28 MuseuMuseu Nacional Nacional do do AzulejoAzulejo PalácioPalácio Nacional Nacional de de Sintra Sintra

U Tram

AeroBus (line 1), metro

A At the Airport Lisbon Airport The airport is modern and easy to navigate. In the departures hall you’ll find ATMs, baby-changing facilities, a post office and numerous cafes, bars, restaurants and shops. The arrivals hall has ATMs, exchange bureaux, car rental and left luggage, as well as a handy tourist information point where you can pick up brochures and maps.

Visit Lisboa (www.visitlisboa.com) Comprehensive tourist office website. Lisbon Lux (www.lisbonlux.com) City guide.

Neighbourhoods 19

Lisbon Neighbourhoods

m Metro Lisbon’s compact, four-line metro network is particularly handy for reaching the airport, Oriente (Parque das Nações), Marquês de Pombal and São Sebastião (Museu Calouste Gulbenkian, Centro de Arte Moderna). It runs from 6.30am to 1am. Single tickets cost €1.40.

Best Transport AeroBus (line 1), metro

Marquês de Pombal & Avenida da Liberdade

Lisbon’s public transport network is cheap and efficient. Save time and money with multiple trips by buying a 24-hour pass (€6), covering buses, trams, funiculars and the metro. For timetables, routes and fares, see www.carris.pt and www.metrolisboa.pt. Much of Bairro Alto, Baixa and Alfama are pedestrian-only – walking is the way to go.

A From Lisbon Airport

Midrange €60–150 Double room in a central hotel €60–120

X X

Getting Around

Most international visitors arrive at Lisbon Airport (www.ana.pt), 8km northeast of the city. Bus connections to the centre run frequently. The quickest way to reach the centre is by taking the metro or the AeroBus (www. yellowbustours.com). Buses depart in front of the arrivals hall.

Budget less than €60 Dorm bed €15-25

Make the most of daily specials and fixedprice menus

For more information, see Survival Guide (p145)

150 Survival Guide Electricity

Exceptions to the following opening hours are noted in listings:

9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am1pm Sat

New Year’s Day 1 January

Money

Carnival Tuesday February/March; the day before Ash Wednesday

rency is the euro (€), divided into 100 cents.

230V/50Hz

Discount Cards

¨ Visa is widely accepted, as is MasterCard; American Express and Diners Club less so, with the exception of top-end hotels and restaurants. ¨ Many automated services, such as ticket machines, require a chipand-pin credit card. ¨ ATMs (Multibancos) are the easiest way to access your money. You just need your card and PIN. Your home bank will usually charge around 1.5% per transaction.

120V/60Hz

Public Holidays

Police, Fire & Ambulance (%112)

¨ The Portuguese cur-

Restaurants lunch noon-3pm, dinner 7-10pm

The Lisboa Card represents excellent value, offering unlimited use of public transport (including trains to Sintra and Cascais), entry to all key museums and attractions, plus up to 50% discount on tours, cruises and other admission charges. It’s available at Ask Me Lisboa (www. askmelisboa.com) tourist offices, including the one at the airport. The 24-/48-/72-hour versions cost €18.50/31.50/39. Validate the card when you want to start it.

Essential Information 151 Emergency

y Top Tip Some small, family-run shops, restaurants and even guesthouses accept cash only. If in doubt, ask before you pay.

7pm-3am

¨ Service is not usually added to the bill. Tip 5% to 10% for good service in restaurants. Round up to the nearest €1 in cafes and taxis.

Good Friday March/April Liberty Day 25 April; celebrating the 1974 revolution Labour Day 1 May Corpus Christi May/ June; the ninth Thursday after Easter Portugal Day 10 June; also known as Camões and Communities Day St Anthony’s Day 13 June Feast of the Assumption 15 August Republic Day 5 October; commemorating the 1910 declaration of the Portuguese Republic All Saint’s Day 1 November Independence Day 1 December; commemorating the 1640 restoration of independence from Spain Feast of the Immaculate Conception 8 December Christmas Day 25 December

Safe Travel

y Top Tip Watch out for pickpockets in rush-hour crowds. ¨ Mind your wallet on tram 28 – a major hot spot for pickpockets – and at other tourist hubs such as Rua Augusta and miradouro (viewpoint) cafes. ¨ You might be offered hash and sunglasses in Baixa and Bairro Alto; a firm but polite ‘no’ keeps hawkers at bay. ¨ Main streets are relatively safe to walk along at night, but be wary around metro stations such as Anjos, Martim Moniz and Intendente, where there have been muggings.

Money-Saving Tips ¨ If you’re on a budget, save your sightseeing for Sunday mornings, when entry to the majority of Lisbon’s museums is free. ¨ Most sights have concessions (up to 50%) for youths, students and seniors – make sure you bring appropriate ID. ¨ Lisbon’s top sights and attractions usually offer free entry for children under 12 (occasionally under 14).

Toilets

y Top Tip Train, metro and bus stations generally have public conveniences. ¨ Public toilets are few and far between.

¨ Take care in the dark alleys of Alfama and Graça.

¨ Your best bet is to pop into a cafe or bar. If you only want to use the loo, order a bica (espresso), one of the cheapest things on the menu.

Telephone

Tourist Information

¨ Most payphones require a phonecard, available in denominations of €3, €6 and €9. Buy them at post and telephone offices and newsagents.

Tourist Office (Map p###, D2; %213 463 314; www. askmelisboa.com; Palácio Foz, Praça dos Restauradores; h9am-8pm) Staff dole out maps and information, book accommodation or reserve rental cars.

y Top Tip Buy a local SIM card to save on roaming charges.

¨ There are discount call shops doubling as internet cafes around Largo de São Domingos (B2).

Central Offices

Lisboa Welcome Centre (Map p###, C5; %210

312 810; www.visitlisboa. com; Praça do Comércio; h9am-8pm) Main branch of Turismo de Lisboa, providing free city maps, brochures, and hotel and tour booking services. Buy the Lisboa Card (p149)here.

Kiosks Information Kiosk (%218 450 660; Airport; h7am-midnight) In the arrivals hall. Information Kiosk (Map p###, C3; %213 658 435; Largo dos Jernónimos, Belém; h10am-1pm & 2-6pm MonSat) Centrally located in Belém. Information Kiosk (Map p###, G3; %218 821 606; Door 47, Santa Apolónia train station; h7.30am-10pm MonSat) Situated inside Santa Apolónia train station.

Komme seg rundt Viktig informasjon som lokalbefolkningen om åpningstider, etc.

29.01.16 10.41

Spesielt anbefalt: Se etter disse merkene!

Lonely Planets Lisboa

Lonely Planets Lommekjentguider er spesiallagd for å ta deg rett til hjertet av byen. 5 Spise Her finner du severdighetene du bare må få med deg, samt 6 Drikke tipsene som gjør besøket 3 Underholdning ekstra minneverdig. Vi har delt byen opp i områder det 7 Shopping er enkelt å manøvrere i, med et brukervennlig kart for hvert av områdene. Lonely Planets ekspertforfatter har Disse symbolene gir deg praktisk sjekket ut alt det beste ved informasjon om de anbefalte stedene: byen: byvandringer, natteliv % Telefonnummer c Familievennlig og shopping, for å nevne noe. h Åpningstider # Kjæledyrvennlig # £ Lokalkjent-sidene hvisker deg i 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 p Parkering g Buss # ¡ 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 øret hva som er ekstra genuint 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 n Ikke-røyk f Ferge 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 og spennende å utforske. 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 i Internett-tilgang 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 #m Metro £ A B C0 D de 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Her får du selvsagt W Wi-Fi-tilgang j Trikk 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 19 nødvendige, praktiske tipsene v Vegetariske retter d Tog0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 00 0 0 0 0 0 # ý for at alt skal gå som smurt på menyen 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 R0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 E Engelskspråklig meny 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 underveis: reiserute-forslag, A 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 u be0 0 0 0 00 0 0 hvordan komme seg rundt,iens 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 l r 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 s Ita hvor mye driks dudbør 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 d e gi på Opéra 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 ulike steder. B 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 63 Finn hver anbefaling kjapt – på kart Drikke 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 # ¡ 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Boka er din garanti for de 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 for hvert område: 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 R Pl de virkelig store opplevelsene. s 00000000# 0 d ne þ

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Lynguide til Lisboa

Høydepunkter........................ 8 Lokalkjent.............................. 12 På fire dager......................... 14 Verdt å vite............................ 16

mmercio,

Kart: byens områder........... 18

Opplev Lisboa

Bairro Alto og Chiado

Baixa og Rossio

Alfama, Castelo og Graça

Belém

Parque das Nações

Marquês de Pombal, Rato og Saldanha

110

Estrela, Lapa og Alcântara

Verdt en avstikker: En rusletur i Príncipe Real......................38 Trikk 28.....................................................56 Museu Nacional do Azulejo................... 74 Palácio Nacional de Sintra................... 122

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Lisboa på sitt beste

125

Byens beste vandringer Oppdagelsestiden i Belém................. 126

Praktiske 145 tips Før du drar..........................146 Ankomst Lisboa.................148

Baixa til Santa Catarina..................... 128

Komme seg rundt..............148

Byens beste

Språk................................... 152

Mat........................................................ 130

Viktig info A–Å....................149

Shopping.............................................. 132 Barer og uteliv..................................... 133 Museer og gallerier............................. 134 Azulejos................................................ 135 Moderne kunst og design.................. 136 Pastelarias og kafeer...........................137 Utsiktspunkter.................................... 138 Utendørs.............................................. 139 For barn................................................ 140 Trikke- og kabelbaneturer...................141 Kirker, slott og palasser...................... 142 Gratis i Lisboa...................................... 143 Rundturer............................................. 144

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isbon

on’s oat with Lisbon, Church

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Lynguide til Lisboa Høydepunkter ��8 Lokalkjent �� 12 På fire dager �� 14 Verdt å vite �� 16 Kart: byens områder �� 18

Velkommen til Lisboa En fantastisk kupert by på sju høyder, kronet av et maurisk slott og fylt av et klart lys alle kunstnere drømmer om. Lisboa har en cinematisk skjønnhet og er historisk interessant. Dette er en hovedstad med høy himmel og vidstrakt utsikt, med skramlende trikker og eventyrlige heiser, med melankolsk fado og et livlig natteliv. Brodd, karisma og postkortperfekt utseende – Lisboa har alt.

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Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (s. 78) Et kjærlighetsbrev til Oppdagelses tiden og fremveksten av manuelinsk stil. Beléms kloster er UNESCOvernet, er svært vakkert og intrikat.

Lisboa Høydepunkter Trikk 28 (s. 56) Du har ikke opplevd Lisboa før du har skramlet gjennom gatene om bord i denne klassikeren. Se glimt av elven, Sé (katedralen) og Basílica da Estrelas perlekuppel underveis.

os Mon

of the

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Høydepunkter 9 Castelo de São Jorge (s. 60)

Det finnes festninger og det finnes festninger. Og ingen skjønte dette bedre enn maurerne, som gjorde Castelo de São Jorge høy og mektig. Nyt vidvinklet utsikt over byen og elven fra festningsvollene.

Oceanário (s. 90)

Tror du at hvis du har sett ett akvarium, så har du sett dem alle? Tro om igjen. Haier, pingviner på isen og havotere som tar salto er bare toppen av det maritime isfjellet i gigantiske Oceanário.

Credit: Manfred

PREMIUM

Creative # 52095429

Central a bon Ocea NaÃ§Ãµe

Credit: Javier La

PREMIUM

Creative # 12889235

Praça do Comércio (s. 42)

Lisboa_materie.indb 9

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Denne plassen, som regnes som hjertet i Portugals hovedstad, har utsikt til elven, palassaktige bygninger med søyleganger, en triumfbue og knallgule trikker. Dette er det Lisboa du har drømt om å oppleve.

Lisbon, P ercio.

Credit: Ken Wels

PREMIUM

Creative # 45181538

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10 Høydepunkter

useu

Museu Calouste Gulbenkian (s. 100)

Denne enorme og fasci nerende kunstsamlingen er et museum du kan besøke igjen og igjen. Skattene spenner fra malerier av nederlandske mestere til relieffer fra Egypt, originale Moneter og smykker av René Lalique.

Convento do Carmo (s. 24) Verken tidens tann eller naturkatastrofers herjinger har klart å øde legge stemningen i dette gotiske klosteret, etablert for karmelitterordenen i 1389 og lagt i gåtefulle ruiner av jordskjelvet i 1755.

alves in the ntiquity

Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (s. 112) Lisboas mest bemerkel sesverdige samling eldre kunst ligger i et palass fra 1600-tallet. Albrecht Dürers St. Hieronymus, Nuno Gonçalves’ storverk St. Vincent-panelene og gullmonstransen fra Belém er samlingens stjerner.

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Høydepunkter 11 Museu Colecção Berardo (s. 80)

Hva gjør man hvis man er milliardær og samler på kunst? Er du José Berardo, bygger du et av Lisboas fremste samtidsgallerier, fyller det med mesterverker av Warhol, Man Ray, Picasso og Miró, og gjør det dessuten gratis å besøke samlingen.

Museu Nacional do Azulejo (s. 74)

Dette museet ligger utenfor allfarvei, i et møysommelig restaurert manuelinsk kloster. Det hyller azulejo (flisen) via sin uforlignelige samling geometriske spansk mauriske fliser, jaktscener fra renessansen og et eksepsjonelt barokt panel av Lisboa før 1755.

Palácio Nacional de Sintra (s. 122)

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Sintras palass på UNESCOs Verdensarv liste er som hentet rett ut av et eventyr. Maurisk, manuelinsk og italiensk renessansestil blandes i salene, som er overdådig dekorert med azulejos (noen av Portugals elds te), fresker og intrikate treskjæringer.

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Tile work Azulejo.

Credit: Brent Wi

PREMIUM

Creative # 14872846

Palacio N

Credit: Martin C

PREMIUM

Creative # 49386952

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Lisboa Lokalkjent Tips fra de som kjenner byen best

En rusletur i Príncipe Real (s. 38) XX Kunst og design

XX Se på folkelivet fra kafeene

Tilbakelente Príncipe Real byr på et fint stykke hverdagsliv med grønne plasser, avantgardistiske designbutikker, motebou tiquer og retrokule kafeer. Få severdigheter, men området er fullt av krea tive vibber og bohemsk stemning. Det perfekte sted for en lat brunsj eller litt ettermiddagskos.

XX Magisk utsikt

XX Hemmelige smug

Hvem vet hva du kan finne når du dykker ned

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Tidsreise i Baixa (s. 44) XX Gammeldagse butikker XX Bakgater

Reis tilbake til en tid da innkjøpene ble fint pak ket inn, da butikkeierne kjente kundene sine ved navn og det fantes butik ker som kun førte fiske

hermetikk, knapper eller bowlerhatter – i Baixa og Rossios svingete smug lever de fortsatt. I skum ringen kan du skåle på Lisboa-vis med ginjinha (kirsebærlikør).

Barrunde i Cais do Sodré (s. 26) XX Fra bar til bar

XX Fester etter midnatt

Bli med på Lisboas kuleste uteliv i Cais do Sodré, som har gått fra kjipt til kult. En over haling har forvandlet prostitusjonsgaten Rua Nova do Carvalho. De bordellchice barene og burleskklubbene er blitt selve stedet å være etter midnatt.

Bakgatene i Alfama (s. 62)

i de forvirrende smugene i mauriske Alfama? Kokker tenner grillen, barn leker foran solbleke kapeller, noen bryter ut i fado. Alfama – og nabobydelene Castelo og Graça – forfører deg med sine bortgjemte kroker, miradouros (utsiktspunk ter) mot slottet og sin nærhet til historien.

Ja da, festningen er storslagen, men Lisboa er langt mer enn en håndfull ikoner. Når du har fått unnagjort toppseverdighetene, bør du ta deg tid til å utforske labyrint aktige mauriske smug, kunstneriske enklaver, gammeldagse butikker og unike barer: Det er dette Lisboa lokalbefolkningen elsker.

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Lokalkjent 13

Stock Pho in Rua No Sodre dis

Image Re EB027T

ner. Når yrint ke barer:

Credit lin Bjanka K

Servering ute på gaten i Cais do Sodré (s. 26) Alfama (s. 62)

per eller Baixa og smug I skum åle på injinha

Andre fine steder og måter å opp leve byen som en lisboeta: LX Factory (s. 117) Sykle langs Tejo (s. 30) Shoppevandring (s. 36) Mercado da Ribeira (s. 37)

ais do

Kaffekultur (s. 33)

att

as ais do ått fra over ndlet en Rua o. De ene og er blitt re etter

Lisboa_materie.indb 13

Cobbled S Portugal

Credit: joe danie

PREMIUM

Creative # 48825522

Kake for alle (s. 32) Ginjinha (s. 52)

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