THE BEAUTY SPOT
+ inside: MAKEUP TRENDS ...what’s IN FOR 2019?
WINTER LIP PICKS VALENTINES DAY VIBES ...OUR PRODUCT PICKS THIS YEAR EVOLUTION OF EYEBROWS SKINCARE ON A BUDGET KOREAN SKINCARE ...HOW DOES IT DIFFER TO BRITISH? PALETTE REVIEW CRUEL COSMETICS... ANTI-ANIMAL CRUELTY TOP 5 INFLUENCERS ATEH JEWEL ...EXCLUSIVE TALK
IMAGE: ANNIE SPRATT
2
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
EDITOR’S NOTE Welcome to the 1st edition of CARBON: The Beauty Spot, our first beauty edit for 2019, where we bring a fresh look at creativity and diversity in the beauty industry. With identity being subjective and beauty ideals now being discussed in mainstream media, The Beauty Spot cuts through all the noise and brings you the best news, the latest products and no bias. Check out pages 8-11 to find out all of the newest trends for Spring 2019 so you can be ahead of the game. Also, pages 32-33 have a very interesting article all about Korean Skincare where you can find out what is happening to skincare on the other side of the world. Due to this being our first issue I am interested in hearing some feedback and what you liked, our Instagram account is @ carbononcampus. If there is anything you would like to see in the next issue feel free to email me at brianna.l.i.norman@gmail.com.
Bri x
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
3
& s r s o t t n u e b t i n r o t c con
06 make up 18 skincare 26 features 34 trends Spring Make Up Trends 2019 Beauty Around the World
Winter Lip Picks Evolution of Eyebrows Valentines Day Vibes
ILLUSTRATIONS: CIARA WILSON
Korean Skincare Skincare on a Budget
Kylie Jenner The Summer Palette Review The Power of Organic Periods Cruel Cosmetics Top 5 infleuncers Beauty Business
4
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
Editor
Brianna Norman
Deputy Editor Jess Maidwell
Head of Design Ciara Wilson
Photo Editor Chloe Gill
Trend Reporter Tash Hughes
Features Editor Emma Ford
Social Media Editor Kikí Szaniszloová
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
5
TRENDS
6
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
7
8
WORDS: CHLOE GILL
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
IMAGES: CHLOE GILL
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
9
10
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
11
BEA U TY
IMAGES: CIARA WILSON
R LD WORDS: CIARA WILSON
WO
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
A R OU ND T H E
12
Pack your make up bags’ ladies and gentlemen, we are taking an adventure around the world to explore the beauty of the planet. Not just the beautiful landscapes that stun us, but the way makeup is being worn from country to country. Fasten your seatbelts, we’re jetting off!
Prepare for landing as our first stop is Japan! If you look on the left-hand side you will see Fuji-HakoneIzu National Park, wave to the mountaineers! Wait, on the right you can see the skyscrapers of Tokyo. The mix of the metropolis and the natural scenery inspire the makeup of the generation. Natural beauty is the highlight of the Japanese culture with accents of pops of colour, taking a sharp turn on the flight path. Pink is everywhere. Pink eyes, pink lips and pink blush, so make sure to pack your pink shadows when touring around Japan.
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
13
Next stop of our tour and it’s the big US of A. Monotone eyeshadow is a big yes with bold wings and natural brows, often accompanied by bronzer and highlight that had an extra pop to the face.
14
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
Second to last stop, the United Kingdom. I am sorry for that turbulence from natural beauty to heavy makeup, I hope you didn’t lose an eyeshadow brush along the way! Make sure you pack your contour brush because Britain is loving the chiselled look. Snatched cheeks and popping highlight is what the UK wants. Bold brows and daring lip colours will flood the streets as you cross the bridge to Big Ben.
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
15
The longest flight time is approaching, and we are jetting down under, to Australia. Not only known for its natural creepy crawlies but the radiant, ‘no makeup’ makeup look. The fresh and glowing skin takes your complexion on an adventure of bliss, like visiting the peaceful Great Barrier Reef.
16
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
Please do not unbuckle your makeup bags from their seats until the plane has finished taxying. Your official globetrotter beauty sticker has been approved and you have now completed training. Be ready to book your next escapade and see how trends will change again next year!
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
17
MAKEUP
Winter
Lip Picks
WORDS, IMAGES AND DESIGN: TASH HUGHES
Milani Amore Matte Lip Cream Shade: Adorable Pro’s: Creamy and easy to apply. Strong pigmentation and lightly scented. Long lasting. Con’s: Lips have to be hydrated enough or else it cracks slightly. Score: 9/10
Mac Matte lipstick ‘Persistence’ Shade: Velvet Teddy Pro’s: Creamy texture, chocolate flavour scent. Keeps lips hydrated. Con’s: Lacks longwearability, and high pigmentation Score: 6.5/10
Lipsy London Gloss Pro’s: Perfect winter gloss, Highly pigmented and easy to apply. Slight metallic effect. Con’s: Bit of a pain if windy (but isnt every gloss?!), quite thick in application. Score: 8/10
Milani Amore Matte Lip Cream Shade: Stunning Pro’s: Creamy and easy to apply. Strong pigmentation and lightly scented. Long lasting. Perfect winter shade, looks great with any makeup look. Con’s: Lips have to be hydrated enough or else it cracks slightly. Score: 9.5/10
h
Kiko Velvet Matte Lipstick Pro’s: Creamy texture and flavoured scent, easy to apply, keeps lips hydrated. Looks great layered with a lighter matte shade. Con’s: Liner is needed for precision, not very longlasting. Score: 6/10
Gerrard Cosmetics Shade: Iced Mocha Pro’s: Easy, smooth application and mattifies almost instantly. Highly pigmented and long lasting/ Con’s: Stains the lips slightly after use. Score 9/10
Milani Amore Matte Lip Cream Shade: 34 Beautifiul Pro’s: Easy to apply, long lasting and bright red pigmentation. Perfect bold, winter colour. Lightly scented, and no liner needed. Con’s: Occasioanlly transfers to face makeup, stains the lips bright pink after use. Score: 6.5/10
The Evolution of
Eyebrow trends. What a trip it’s been. Pencil thin, to outgrown and bushy, back to perfectly shaped arches. Eyebrows are such a prominent facial feature. They accentuate your eyes, shape your face, as well as quite literally showing how you feel.
1920s
New trends are being introduced left right and centre with new ways to shape your brows, to get an ‘instagrammable’ look. Some better than others. Flash back to the twenties, where it all began and witness the eyebrow evolve.
WORDS, IMAGES AND DESIGN: TASH HUGHES
1940s
1960s
Eyebrows 1980s
2000s
Top Products: Anastasia Beverley Hills Dipbrow Pomade 96.2% recommend this product 4.7 out of 5 stars L.A. Girl Shady Slim Brow Pencil 0.08g 75.3% recommend this product 3.8 out of 5 stars Zoeva Brow Spectrum Palette 93.8% recommend this product 4.8 out of 5 stars Anastasia Beverley Hills Brow Wiz 91.9% recommend this product 4.4 out of 5 stars @beautybay.com
Now
Valentine’s s e Day Vib Valentine’s Day is a is one of the most romantic days of the year, with shops covered in red hearts and Instagram photos in many shades of pink. How can you not get in the mood? Her is a list of the best beauty gifts you can ask for this year.
WORDS AND DESIGN: BRIANNA NORMAN
Urban Decay ‘Naked Cherry Eyeshadow Palette’ Coming out only last autumn, this palette is a new must have. With 12 gorgeous shades of pinks, whites and nudes, both matte and shimmers, it fits in well with the valentines theme. Also, the shadow will not fade out or flake off and it is 100% cruelty free. At £42.00, it is definitely a contender for this years gift guide. This can be bought at: www.urbandecay.co.uk
Charlotte Tilbury ‘K.I.S.S.I.N.G Lipstick’ Charlotte Tilbury Lipsticks are super high quality, the K.I.S.S.I.N.G collection leave your lips soft and hydrated while protecting you from UV damage. Its light-dusting pigments give your lips a multi-dimensional finish, leaving them fuller and more kissable. A great gift idea because it can pull a whole makeup look together with the perfect pout. Being just £24.00, it is perfect for both daytime and nighttime wear. This can be bought at: www.charlottetilbury.com
Too Faced ‘Love Light Highlighter ’ The ‘Love Light Highlighter’ is a beautiful highlighter that will leave you glowing the perfect amount. Coming in three different colours it is perfect for any skin tone. At £30.00, it’s a little bit more pricey than a normal highlighter, making it great as a special gift. It’s also vegan/cruelty free, so it is perfect for any vegans out there. This can be bought at: www.toofaced.com
Spectrum ‘Sweetheart Brush Set ’ The ‘Sweetheart Brush Set’ is perfect for Valentine’s Day because of its heart shaped case, it works as both a case and a clutch bag. Consisting of 5 mini face and eye brushes it’s great for travelling. Also, it comes in 3 different colours (Red, Pink and Gold), so it will suit any style. The brush hairs are made up of the highest quality synthetic hair, resulting in it being vegan and cruelty free. At only £44.99 it is a perfect buy. This can be bought at www.spectrumcollections.com
Marc Jacobs ‘Daisy Love Perfume’ Valentine’s is a great way to receive a new perfume, ‘Daisy Love’ is an ode to the iconic ‘Daisy’ perfume. With tones of cloudberries, cashmere musk and driftwood it creates a long lasting eroma. The price is anywhere from £40.50-£77.50, so it will suit any price range. Overall, it has a lovely floral scent perfect for your Valentine’s Day event. This can be bought at: www.marcjacobs.com
Too Faced ‘Chocolate Bon Bon’ Eyeshadow Palette This is the cutest looking eyeshadow palette infused with antioxidant-rich cocoa powder. It consists of 16 eyeshadows (both matte and shimmers), with nudes and pops of colour. It is cruelty free and £49.00, perfect for a Valentine’s present. It also has a 5/5 rating and is worn by the top influencers and celebrities. This can be found at: www.toofaced.com
SKINCARE 26
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
27
SKINCARE ON A BUDGET
5 HOME REMEDIES FOR BLEMISH-FREE SKIN 28
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
IMAGES: UNSPL ASH WORDS & DESIGN: JESS MAIDWELL
The cliched comeback, “Oh they’re Gucci darling”, only works so many times when it comes to someone slyly commenting on your under-eye bags. Along with other common skincare troubles such as oily/dry patches, acne scarring and blemishes, we have compiled a few of the most effective tried-and-tested methods to transform your skin into its glowing potential...
1. ALOEVERA
Aloe vera works wonders for the skin in every sense. Specifically though, it is good for acne scarring!
•Either use Aloe vera juice or the gel from a fresh aloe plant. •Apply the juice/gel to the affected area. •Repeat twice daily, and you should see the scars begin to fade.
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
29
2.
OLIVE OIL & SUGAR Mixing some olive oil and sugar together can make a simple home skin exfoliant! Natural exfoliants are not as harsh and are much better for your skin, leaving it feeling soft and smooth.
•Mix together 2-3 tablespoons of olive oil and 2-3 tablespoons of sugar (mix more depending on how big of an area you wish to exfoliate). •Making sure the consistency is gritty, massage the mixture into your face, elbows, feet and lips. •After a couple of minutes, rinse off the exfoliant with warm water and your skin should be left feeling velvet smooth.
3. ORANGES The acidic property and high level of vitamin C of oranges makes them a perfect remedy for acne. Sometimes the zest/peel is just as effective as the juice! So, follow these steps to improve your skin. •Leave the peel of an orange outside to dry out, and grind the peel into a powder. •Mix the powder with 1 tsp of the juice from an orange and 1 tsp of water to make a paste. •Apply to blemished areas for 10-15 minutes and gently rinse off. •Repeat these steps once daily before bed.
30
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
MINT LEAVES
4. 5.
Suffer from dark under-eye circles? Mint leaves will be your saviour.
•Simply mix a handful of mint leaves with 2 tsp of honey or olive oil. •Spread under your eyes and leave for 10-15 minutes. •Rinse off with warm water and it should feel amazing.
Natural oats help calm inflamed skin and soak up excess oil due to their absorbent qualities, in addition to their texture helping exfoliate the skin. Follow these steps to rid that oil!
• Grind your oats (this is important because you want them to be as absorbent as possible). • Mix in 3 tsp of warm green tea. • Add 1 tsp of honey and mash the ingredients until gooey. • Add 2-3 drops of a tea tree essential oil or any essential oil of your choice that is good for healthy skin. Some include frankincense, rose geranium, or lavender. • Apply to damp skin in an even layer. • Leave the oat mask on for 20 minutes, or until dry. • Finally, rinse with warm water. This should leave your skin feeling fresh and oil free!
O A T S
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
31
32
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
Korean
e r a c n i Sk
Korean skincare is on the rise and changing the faces of many. With a very specific 10 step skincare routine; women are finally getting the perfect skin they have dreamed about for years. You may have seen many beautiful Korean women showing off their gorgeous skin on Instagram and wondered what editing app or filter they used. The truth is it’s real! Korean women have stunning flawless skin due to the 10 step skincare routine they implement everyday! In fact, according to the BBC News, Korean women spend twice as much money caring for their skin than the rest of us and it definitely shows. The routine is focused heavily on health and hydration to give the skin a godly glow. Korean women believe it is important to nourish the skin so that it stays youthful and looks flawless without makeup. Striving for perfection is what we all want but these women have definitely nailed it when it comes to skincare. From a young age Korean boys and girls are taught the importance of self-care. By starting young they have the ability to prevent wrinkles, pigmentation and sun damage instead of just covering it up with makeup like the rest of us. Skincare isn’t a luxury for Koreans, it’s an essential in life and is never pushed aside. Dewy, firm skin is the ultimate goal all around. However, the rest of us are trying to get rid of the dewiness and make our skin look matte and dull. We are then disappointed with the way our skin looks so we slap on makeup to cover it up. However, Koreans wear very little makeup due to the glowing base they have underneath.
So what makes their routine different to ours? Apart from the fact that these women endure a lengthy daily skincare routine, they have key ingredients that are essential. These include:
RICE:
targets hyperpigmentation, brightens skin and has anti-ageing properties.
WORDS: EMMA FORD
IMAGES: UNSPL ASH
Galactomyces:
All of these ingredients are key to achieving the perfect skin and are spread throughout this 10 step routine: Step 1:
Oil Cleanse - removes makeup and suncream from the
face.
Step 2: Foam Cleanse - double cleansing allows for a thorough cleanse and gets rid of anything still left on the face.
Step 3:
Exfoliate - exfoliating 2/3 times per week is important for removing dead skin cells. It also helps to improve skin texture and the absorption of the other products in the routine.
Step 4:
Tone - toner is used to refresh, soften and prepare the skin for the next step.
Step 5:
Treatment Essence - this step is very popular and is used to hydrate, firm, brighten and even the skin tone along with reducing signs of ageing.
Step 6:
Serum - the serums are used to target specific personal skin problems such as dark spots and ageing.
Step 7: Sheet Mask - these are a cheap and fun way to treat the skin. They help to lock in moisture and nutrients such as vitamin C.
Step 8: Eye Cream - used to nourish the delicate skin around the eyes to prevent signs of ageing.
packed with vitamins, amino acids and enzymes. Protects from UV damage, tightens pores, reduces acnes and brightens skin.
Step 9:
Snail: helps reduce sun damage, targets wrinkles and fine lines, helps
perfect skin. Sun damage can create pigmentation and premature signs of ageing so using SPF daily is a must.
reduce hyperpigmentation and acne.
Volcanic Clay:
exfoliates, detoxifies, unclogs pores and
reduces acne.
Red Ginseng:
hydrating, anti-inflammatory, reduces wrinkles and helps to reduce dark, puffy eyes
Moisturiser - used to hydrate and moisturise the skin.
Step 10: SPF - protection from the sun is an essential way of keeping
Once you break down the Korean 10 step skincare routine it doesn’t seen too bad, right? Each step has its own purpose and each is as important as the other. There is no secret to achieving perfect skin, you just have to take care of it properly. If you want to get flawless skin like Korean women, why not start by implementing their daily skincare routine into your day-to-day life?
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
33
34
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
35
36
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
kylie Jenner the summer palette review
Kylie Jenner Cosmetics, the “$900 million fortune in just 3 years”, stated by Forbes, has created a new revolution in the beauty community. Her sisters’ fame has helped her to achieve and she has taken over the throne with her monarchy of makeup. Yet, would a non-branded eyeshadow palette sell as many as it does with Kylie Jenner’s name on it? Nah, I don’t think so.
DESIGN , WORDS AND PHOTO BY CIARA WILSON
At the end of November 2015, I was one of the peasants who bowed down to King Kylie’s demand as she gave me the chance to buy her products. The initial release, ‘Kylie Lip Kits’, hit the beauty industry by storm as everyone wanted to get their hands on the matte lipstick that made your lips crusty after a few minutes. The first release came around and unfortunately, I didn’t get any. The pain I went through was unbearable. The second release was here. As the clock struck 12, I was on the website, refreshing every few seconds for the lip kits to become available. Finally, the moment had come. Two out of three colours were in my basket. The temperature of the room got hotter and sweat was dripping down my face. The race was on to check out with them still in my basket and guess what, I did it. They were all mine, although I had to wait over two weeks for them to be shipped from America before they were actually mine. They arrived, and I posted them all over my social media accounts. I felt like Kylie.
The paparazzi of friends was getting too much for me, only because I had got a $30 lipstick. I had my lime light, but I wasn’t that impressed, but I needed to use it for the price of it! I didn’t make a ‘Kylie’ purchase for 3 years until this summer when her Summer collection dropped. The ‘Summer Palette’ Kyshadow formula retailed for $44 equivalent to £34, which is not too pricey for a good quality product. I am highly impressed by this eyeshadow palette. The formula is so pigmented and with only one tap you can get enough product to blend out into a beautiful shade. The one shade that drew me to this palette was ‘melon’ which is a bright coral colour. This is something I had not seen before and I couldn’t wait to play around with it. The shades ‘hottie’ and ‘need a tan’ come out different colours than what they look like in the pan. They are a lot brighter which creates a blinding look. The one shade that lets me down is ‘beach babe’. This is a glitter shade, that is intended to be an eyeshadow topper, yet the glitter is sparse and quite frankly has no pigment at all. However, the other beautiful shades really
balance out the disappointment of only one shade! Mainly I only use the matte shades and they give such a wonderful finish. They blend together nicely and mix with other branded shadows such as Anastasia Beverly Hills too. When tapping into the pan, there is a lot of ‘kick back’ so sometimes shadow is wasted, but this is what gives such good pigmentation. A criticism of the palette is that there needs to be a warmer neutral shade that can be blended out into the outer corner which isn’t too light or too deep. Yet, this can easily be fixed by using another palette but generally an eye look can be made just with this. Overall, I love these eyeshadows! I think for the price they are amazing quality and I would definitely purchase ‘Kyshadow’ again. Let’s just hope that her majesty, Kylie brings a factory to Europe so that shipping costs and time isn’t as long! If these shadows didn’t have Kylie Jenner’s name on it, I think that beauty lovers would still find the eyeshadow and love it for how good quality it is. Although it does help to have a celebrity name splashed on all of the packaging just to give it that extra boost in sales.
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
37
The Power of
Organic Periods Periods can be difficult but conventional period products can make it worse. With aggravating fragrances, toxic pesticides and constant discomfort. it’s no wonder women are choosing to go organic. It may be a taboo subject but every woman experiences it so why don’t we talk about it more? ‘That time of the month’ is one every women dreads but many aren’t aware of the dangers that can arise from the products they are using. Most women simply head to their local supermarket or beauty store to pick up the cheapest products they can find. However, these products are actually filling your body with nasty chemicals and fibres. Toxic shock syndrome is one every woman wants to avoid but by using conventional period products it can actually increase your risk. According to the Hospital Episode Statistics during 2017/18 there were 74 admissions to hospital (in England) due to toxic shock syndrome. It may not be common but it can be deadly if not taken seriously. However, to help combat this one brand launched a whole range of organic natural period products. Founded in 2016 and recently launched in Tesco, TOTM is all about helping women understand their bodies and manage their periods and menstrual health better. Alex Patience - Social, Comms and Content Executive at TOTM spoke about the importance of using more natural organic products and how they
38
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
differ from conventional ones. “Conventional tampons have been found to contain non-organic cotton and rayon. Non-organic cotton is farmed using toxic pesticides and insecticides (in fact, it’s the most heavily sprayed crop on the planet). Rayon is a manmade material that has been used since the 1930’s. Produced from cellulose, which is a compound extracted from wood pulp. It’s not just tampons! Conventional pads have been found to contain around 90% plastic. When heavily used in period care, plastics can trap heat and bacteria which can lead to infection, irritation and general discomfort. Not to mention, the impact this amount of plastic has on the environment. In addition to these core ingredients, both conventional tampons and pads have been found to contain fragrance/perfumes, deodorants, dyes and chlorine bleach. Fragrance is renowned for being an irritant. When it comes into contact with your skin it can cause irritation, itching and soreness. Our tampons, pads and liners are all made with GOTS certified organic cotton. They do not contain fragrance/perfumes, dyes, rayon, wood pulp or chlorine bleach. We use materials such as organic cotton because it’s farmed without the use of harmful pesticides and
DESIGN AND WORDS BY EMMA FORD
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
39
IMAGES FROM UNSPL ASH
it’s also biodegradable! We avoid plastic whenever possible in the range. Our tampon applicators are cardboard, and we wrap our pads in compostable and biodegradable biofilm.” As well as helping our bodies be free of unwanted chemicals and nasties the brand also helps reduce plastic waste. They have recently launched their TOTM Switch Kits to help customers make the switch to organic products and find what works best for them. However, TOTM isn’t the only organic natural brand out there, there are so many more to try. These include: Ohne, Flo, Seventh Generation, Natracare and Organyc. Although, organic products tend to be more expensive than traditional ones, they have so many more benefits towards female health. If you think back to the time you learnt about periods and how to manage them, you would most likely have only learnt about pads and tampons. However, the new craze on the period front is the menstrual cup. It’s essentially a silicone cup that holds your period. Unlike tampons and pads you can leave it in for up to 12 hours making it more practical. Although they can cost around £20+ they are the cheapest option in the long run. If you think how much you spend on regular products each month you could easily spend over £20 in a few months. However, the menstrual cup will last you for years, as long as you care for it in the right way. They are also the most eco friendly option as there is nothing to dispose. Did you know that the average women will use between 11,000 and 16,000 tampons in her lifetime? This is the shocking reality of periods. However, simply switching to
40
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
a more eco friendly option, such as the menstrual cup, will not only help the environment but save you money and hassle. Another bonus of the menstrual cup is the fact you wont be exposing yourself to harmful chemicals, fragrances or loose fibres while using it. Like tampon and pads, there are so many shapes and sizes out there to fit everyone so it may take a little time to find which one is best for you. Whatever option you decide to go with, whether it be organic pads and tampons or the menstrual cup, there are so many natural options out there to choose from. Taking the time to care for your body is so important both inside and out. Why not start by going organic?
Writers Review: I have been testing out organic period products for the past 3-4 months and I am surprised by the results. I am currently trying to avoid any harmful chemicals and irritants throughout my everyday life so I thought changing my period products was a great place to start. I have tried natural pads, liners and tampons and have recently purchased a menstrual cup to try. I can confidently say that switching to organic has helped relieved cramps (that were very harsh before), has helped reduce the flow of my period and has even shortened my period by 2 days each month. The products do not give me any irritation or discomfort either. Although the products are pricier that conventional ones, I would definitely recommend them to anyone that is looking to make ‘that time of the month’ more bearable.
CRUEL COSMETICS Animal testing, is it all coming to an end?
DESIGN, WORDS AND IMAGES BY CHLOE GILL
Many animals feel pain and suffering on a daily basis due to the process of animal testing. So how would you feel if roles were reversed and the process of using samples such as human tissues was the new way to create cosmetics? Cruelty-free products have been a mainstream craze over the past few years. According to the PETA UK, sales of products have increased by 38% in the past twelve months. The general public are becoming more aware of the products that they are putting on their skin and are much more intrigued and fascinated as to what the behind the scenes process of making the cosmetics is. In this year alone, PETA UK also stated that there has been a crazy rise of 30% in consumer advertisements discussing animal cruelty across various social media platforms. One Instagram user named @becoming_crueltyfree, has chosen to a part of this huge advertisement and promotional community, creating a page that promotes various crueltyfree products that are currently out on the market. Her plan was to educate the public, “I think most people just aren’t really aware of the whole cruelty-free market.” and after posting various advertisements, she realised she wasn’t alone in wanting to be more ethical in her product purchases. China continues to be one of the leading major reasons why animal cruelty is still a huge dilemma, with a rise in animal testing rather than a decrease. Australia, France, Canada, The UK and Germany follow close behind with being the top few countries that are encouraging animal testing. Cruelty Free international states that at least 115 million animals are being used in experiments worldwide each year. Sadly, it is often cheaper, quicker and more effective to do this than creating cruelty-free products, even though there are many alternatives now being discovered instead of the use of animals. One example is using things such as human tissues. Human tissue can be donated from various surgeries which can be more useful when it comes to human biology and diseases. Skin and eye models are reconstructed from human skin and other tissues, which are developed to replace the cruel rabbit irritation tests. This process is almost similar to someone who is an organ donor, or as if someone was to donate blood in the case of it being a choice. However, Human tissue is donated through the process of surgery, for example biopsies, cosmetic
surgery and transplants. So how would you feel if instead of using animals, YOU were the test sample? There are also various other test methods. Computer models are now being made to replicate aspects of the human body, to conduct virtual experiments. Lastly, another option is to use volunteer studies. There are now rapid advances in technology that have allowed the development of scanning machines and recording techniques. So is cruelty-free, “a label for products that do not harm or kill animals” becoming a common theme within various well known brands? Yes, and no. Independent cruelty-free brands are often being bought by international companies that are unfortunately unethical. This means that although the products remain cruelty free, the profits from the purchases are being given to the international company. There is the hope that if the cruelty free brand was to achieve high profits with high demands, the parent company may take a step back from animal testing all together and join the ethical community. @becoming_ crueltyfree explained how she avoids brands that do this. “As a customer I see my money as
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
41
42
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
GET INVOLVED - CRUELTY FREE INTERNATIONAL states that companies such as Episkin, Mattek and CellSystems GmbH all now produce tests in easy to use kits for the public to create a range of cosmetics and other substances. - Human tissues can also help to improve an understanding of the effects of multiple illness’ such as sclerosis and Parkinson’s disease.
my voice. I would feel as though I am going against my beliefs if I was to purchase from a parent company.” There are many organisations and charities who are working hard to make a stand to help stop animal testing. Like humans, animals are capable of suffering. They have a right to not be exploited or harmed. Dr Julia Baines, Science Policy Advisor at PETA UK explained why the charity is dedicated to establishing and protecting the rights of all animals. “PETA is one of the largest animal rights organisations in the world with over one million supporters in the UK alone. But its not just through public support that we aim to promote our message that animals are not ours to use in any way – PETA and the PETA international affiliate’s are a dedicated team of scientists, who work on many levels to end the use of animals in experiments. We are advancing the development of the best non-animal test methods and we believe that we can help replace all experiments using animals with modern, superior scientific methods and technologies.” Testing cosmetic products and their ingredients on animals is a shocking and cruel practice that many people believe deserves to be relegated. Companies may inject guinea pigs with lipstick ingredients to check for painful skin reactions, dose pregnant rabbits with face cream ingredients to see whether their new-born’s will be deformed or force-feed rats shampoo ingredients for weeks or months, causing sickness, convulsions, weight loss and death. “There is overwhelming evidence that
animals feel pain and fear just as we do, and their overwhelming natural instincts – like ours – are to be free and to protect their own lives. The thinking, feeling animals who are used in experiments are treated like nothing more than disposable pieces of laboratory equipment – a means to an end.” Despite various brands causing this suffering, there is also many that don’t. “My personal favourite brands that are widely available in the UK are Urban Decay, Kat Von D, Lush, Too Faced, The Body Shop and BareMinerals to name just a few. I particularly love Urban Decay’s Naked range – the foundation, concealer and eye shadow palette are my go-to products for daily use. For hair care, you’ll find Paul Mitchell products on my shelf. But first and foremost, it isn’t the fabulous coverage or glossy locks that draw me to these products – it’s the fact that they’re all vegan and cruelty-free.” There are lots of arguments for and against animal testing, causing a constant debate across the globe. Some people suggest that animals make better research subjects than humans. Due to animals having shorter life cycles, (for example mice having lives as short as two to three years) various experiments can be tested across an entire life and across multiple generations. However, animal testing is not always as reliable as testing on humans. Many tests that have proved to be successful on animals have failed on humans. There are strong doubts that the usefulness of animal testing can predict human safety. Instagram is a great way to get a more realistic idea of what products the public are currently using. Polls are used to get a more in depth opinion. “Do you own any cruelty-free products?” 59% of people voted yes and 41% said no. It was predicted that a higher percentage would say no as animal cruelty is still a huge issue amongst different brands, so it is surprising to see the opposite. The public’s favourite brands for cruelty-free products that are currently on the market are The Body Shop, The Ordinary and PIXI. To conclude, animal cruelty is still a huge issue that is spread across the world, many organisations work hard to decrease the figures and new developments in technology are helping them prove that animal testing does not need to be used as often. There are currently a wide variety of amazing products that are already on the market, from skincare to your favourite foundation, and I hope that my article has encouraged you to think more about your ethical purchases. Animals have thoughts and feelings, just as we do. So how would you feel if you were now the animal? To get involved in Human Tissue testing and other various testing techniques visit Cruelty Free international for more info. Help stop the pain and suffering that innocent animals are currently facing.
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
43
TOP 5
BEAUTY YOUTUBERS TO FOLLOW DENITSLAVA MAKEUP Denitslava started her Youtube channel in 2015 when she was doing simple and elegant makeup tutorials. Over the years, her makeup skills have developed, and now she’s doing all kinds of beauty videos from everyday makeup to red carpet looks. She’s beautiful, talented, cute, and funny. And her accent is adorable.
@DENITSL AVA
PONY SYNDROME This lovely Korean beauty Youtuber has been doing Youtube videos for three years. If you love Korean makeup, you should definitely follow her. Most of the time she looks like princess, like a magical creature that’s come from heaven to the Earth, and her videos will keep you entertained for many hours.
@PONYSMAKEUP
44
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
RYAN POTTER This young and talented man has been doing makeup videos since 2016, and his skills will impress you so much that you will want more and more. He is funny and honest. You can find all types of videos on his channel from beauty reviews to crazy Halloween tutorials.
@RYANBPOTTER
EMMA PICKLES If you are searching for Halloween inspiration, search no more. Since starting her channel in 2011, she’s been doing interesting and creative Halloween makeup tutorials which will never stop surprising you. In every video, she transforms herself into a completely different character. Scary, sexy, creative.
WORDS AND DESIGN BY KIKI SZANISZLOOVA
IMAGES FROM INSTAGRAM
@EMMAPICKLES
BRAD MONDO When I first saw his videos, I was kind of like “what?!” because his style is very extravagant. This New York based hairdresser has it all. He is funny, truthful, and crazy but most important he has a big heart. He’s been doing a transformation series where he picks a girl with a story and gives her a makeover. If you are looking for someone who will make you laugh, definitely follow this guy.
@BRADMONDONYC
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
45
BEAUTY BUSINESS
Ateh Jewel performed a talk at Solent University all about her career. Find out how to survive in the industry and the best advice she has. Ateh Jewel is a Beauty journalist, director & producer, she started her career off in print journalism at “Instyle.” At the age of 22 she went freelance and still is now. Jewel is more into digital writing and writes for “Pool” and has spoken at “Stylist LIVE” for the past 2 years. Over the years she has worked for many different brands such as; Dior, MAC, The Body Shop, Benefit etc. Her husband, Daniel Jewel, is a Oscar Short listed and BIFA nominated Director and Producer. Him being a director was very helpful towards her career, they co-founded the company “Couture Communications.” It is a digital productions company where they direct and produce online films, T V idents, still photography, documentaries and award winning short films with their sister company “Third Man Films.” During production Jewel is the producer and her husband writes and is the director.
DESIGN AND WORDS BY BRIANNA NORMAN
IMAGES FROM ATEH JEWEL
She went on to talk about mission statements as she believes everyone should have a mission statement. Here is hers; “I created Jewel Tones Beauty for my daughters, so one day when they’re teenagers and young woman they will never feel the way I felt. When I walked into a beauty hall I felt unrepresented and neglected. I want to invoke change in the beauty industry, so there is choice and a celebration of darker skin tones and not just token products and services. I don’t want to feel like I’m diverse, like I’m other and a strange category – I’m here, I’m normal, I’m relevant, I’m empowered and I demand to be catered to with respect and creativity. I want that for my daughters and for you.” Jewel is a cultural commentator and diversity advocate and wants her kids to be themselves and celebrate diversity. Some advice that she gives is, to “Be a Cocktail.” Meaning you can’t just be one thing like straight alcohol, you need to be able to do many things such as; PR, blogger, merchandising etc. “You can’t be a purist, you need a mixture of things.” One of her favourite quote is, “It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent that survives. It is the one that is most adaptable to change.” - Darwin.
46
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
Ateh Jewel believes you should start thinking of your career now and to think of yourself as a brand. You should make it what you want, for example the Kardashians are a brand. She says, “Make your hobby your job and you will never work a day in your life,” this is advice from her mother that she lives by. Also, she says you need to clean up your Social Media, “Social Media is a shop window.” Employees will stalk us online so make sure there is nothing offensive or inappropriate and check what you say and how you dress. Some more advice Jewel would give is, to work hard and to your best ability but find peace and balance in your day. Don’t do drugs or eat lots of sugar to relax, she thinks forest bathing and meditation will help manage anxiety. To end her talk, she shared a quote from Diana Vreeland saying, “The only real elegance is in the mine; if you’ve got that, the rest really comes from it.”
TIKO GIORGADZE
Gallery CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
47
SVETLANA POCHATUN
48
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
KSENIA POLOVODOVA CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT
49
50
CARBON - THE BEAUT Y SPOT