CARBON: Surrealism Edit by carbononcampus

SURREALISM edit

INSIDE:

Faux Pas …

Celestial Bodies … Down the Rabbit Hole … Shock wave … Mirror Mirror

Photographed by Abby Prowse.

In this issue, we look closer into the AvantGarde movement that sparked this release of artistry to show the creative potential of an unconscious mind. From poetry and art to photography and sculpture, the surrealistic movement captured our inspiration and is spread throughout these pages with a new innovative vision. Looking at artistic photography inspired incredibly from creative influences such as Aiden Zamiri and Elizaveta Porodina, the idea of surrealism wanders and stretches the mind to make sense of things that do not appear ‘normal”. We feature a trip into a nostalgic journey, showing memories highlighting an idealised past and wearying on the concept of time. We also look into the psychedelic effects on fashion that powered the drug enhanced minds, and the way the trend has trickled down through time. Highlighting works of Dali and Frieda Kahlo, we show how fashion has since been inspired by the outcast expressionism these two provided, and inspirited ingenious looks on the artistry through the use of makeup and design. As a team, we have enjoyed making this edit tremendously and as an editor, I can say I am proud of the proficiency and research that went into constructing this edition. Abby Prowse x

Contributors. Editor in chief Rachel Lamb. Art editor in chief John Whalvin. Editor Abby Prowse. Deputy editor Jordan Ricketts. Sub editor Hema Dixons. Art director Rokeya Rodney. Picture editor Eleanor Byrne. Social media editor Violet Wray.

Contents. 06 Faux Pas. 10 Celestial Bodies. 16 Elizaveta Porodina, a Master of Dark Romanticism. 22 Just an Illusion. 20 Mind’s Eye. 30 Surrealism Beyond Borders. 32 Trippy History Lesson. 34 Mind Over Matter. 38 It’s all in the Eyes. 40 Down the Rabbit Hole. 48 Perspectives. 50 It’s Surreal to Me. 52 Shock Wave. 58 Surrealism Beyond Boundaries. 62 A Series of Surrealism. 68 Mirror Mirror. 5

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Designed, written and photographed by Jordan Ricketts. Modelled by Ella Gutfreund and Violet Wray.

As we enter the spring season, there’s no need to hide your so-called winter-warmers. Morphe your fantasy this season and indulge into luxury with a statement faux fur piece or two to elevate your wardrobe before the sun fully begins to saturate. After all, there’s always a way to wear fur.

First coat: Urban Outfitters Second coat: Vintage

Celestial Bodies. A Photoshoot inspired by Aidan Zamiri, do you know a Luci?

Designed and written by Rosa Macvicar. Images on pages 2-5 by Rosa Macvicar, modelled by Amina Ceesay and Clifford Appiah, Images on page 6 by Aidan Zamiri.

Aidan Zamiri. music collective who are also known to dabble in fashion) and their prominent place in meme culture, you may have seen various fan produced images which usually include a luminescent filter, glowing lights, and a mid-2000s soft scene aesthetic. As Aidan Zamiri cites the internet and meme culture as a large inspiration in his work , either of these things could have had an influence on the shoot.

Aidan Zamiri is a Glaswegian photographer known for his bold visuals inspired by anything from nineties iconography to memes. Last year Zamiri shot a series of images for musician Sega Bodega and their new album, Romeo. The narrativeled LP is centred on a fictional being called Luci who supposedly brings light to all those she meets. Following this plot, Zamiri produced an ethereal sequence of images invoking the surreal nature of Luci’s presence.

Surrealism often focuses on identity exploration, presenting it in a way that is dreamlike or distorted. Whilst Spiritualist art and Drain memes might seem like they aren’t connected, they are. Both explore identity expression in a way that can’t be done so in reality. Aidan Zamiri has been able to turn aspects of the online community which has shaped his own identity, into a refined concept. Something that artists synonymous with the genre, such as René Magritte also did with their own life experiences.

This genre of art/photography can be accredited to multiple sources; across Pinterest you’ll find art or superimposed images of similar glowing entities. Some fall under the category of Spiritual art in relation to the concept of auras or your higher self. Whereas others, on the complete opposite end of the spectrum, are memes. If you’re familiar with the group Drain Gang (the Swedish

ELIZAVETA PORODINA PHOTOGRAPHY

ELIZAVETA PORODINA. “A MASTER OF DARK ROMANTICISM” S-Magazine

Playing with melancholic symbolism, her experimental fashion and fine art photography travels through time and space.

Photographed, styled and design by Abby Prowse, modelled by Lili Ismail and Violet Wray.

“A SURREAL AND DREAMY REFLECTION” ELIZAVETA PORODINA

WITH INSPIRATION FROM PORODINA, I TOOK MY OWN INSPIRATION AT CREATING THE SURREALIST STYLE IMAGERY WITH THE LONG EXPOSURE APPROACH. IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY PORODINA IS SEEN AS A BEAUTIFUL FINE ARTIST SPECIALISING HEAVILY IN SURREALISTIC PHOTOGRAPHY AND DESIGN. WHILST PREVIOUSLY WORKING WITH BRANDS AND MAGAZINES SUCH AS LOUIS VITTON AND ELLE, PORODINA HAS CREATED AN IMPRESSIVE PORTFOLIO FOR HERSELF. HER DREAMLIKE WORK HAS MERGED THE IDEAL OF PAST AND CONTEMPORARY WITH A JOURNEY INTO TIME AND SPACE REFLECTING SIGNIFICANTLY IN HER WORK. BEING A CLINICAL PSYCHOLOGIST, PORODINA PLAYS ON THE MELANCHOLIC SYMBOLISM AND AMBIGUOUS IDEALS IN BETWEEN HONEST AND OBVIOUS.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ELIZAVETA PORODINA

Just an Illusion. Surrealism challenges the depth of creativity your mind can make from seeing something that’s somewhat out of the ordinary. The same subconscious thought process is also placed illusion- the way you view something, such as the message behind a piece of artwork or the stance of an illusion behind how you view life. Is something awful? Is the awful thing in question a misperception of something greater on its way to you?

Written, photographed, and designed by Immi Sturgeon. Modelled by Rosa Macvicar.

Mind’s eye. A journey into the past, and a certain sense of nostalgia as we yearn for the unattainable. Playing with the concept of time has been a prevalent game over the past few years; we experience it in a way different than ever before. An intimidation constructed only by the comparative of then and now. An idealised past written only by the mind’s eye — where did all the time go?

Written, designed and photographed by Jordan Ricketts. Modelled by Zena Fawzy Abdou. Video by Jordan Ricketts.

SURREALISM BEYOND BORDERS. 24 February – 29 August 2022

“SURREALISM IS NOT A STYLE- BUT A STATE OF MIND.” TATE Running from February to August of 2022 the Tate Modern is hosting an incredible exhibiton to show the “subversion of reality ” in a history of surrealistic styles that is “uncanny to the mind.” The artwork ranges from, art, poetry, photography, films, sculpture, activism and writing from a diverse range of people globally. Looking from the 1920’s in France to 1960s in America and plenty more, this exhibition showcases artists who felt trapped in reality and are finally given a voice to express their thoughts. The diversion between time and space creates a place for the unconsious desires and bring dreamlike fantasies to life. Filled with unrealistic scenarios, with unsettling tones, a mix of dreamworld, fantasies and nightmares, the collection is unearthly and perplexing. The rooms combined with group and individual work juxtaposes eachother cleverly to create a “false reality ”

When looking at the art subjectively, it is very emotive and inspiring. From different cultural backgrounds, the term surrealism is used unorthodoxly.

There are rooms from Egypt ’s Art and Liberty group to Mexico’s Los Contemporáneos and some artists working in the Caribbean. There are also rooms about collective identity and dreams.

Not only does this expand the exhibit to show worldy pieces, it opens up a new interpretation of “surrealism”.

Most notably, a Joan Miró from the 1960s and a Picasso from the 1920s along with extensive mix of photos and magazines.

Definitely not an exhibit to miss!

Written and designed by Abby Prowse.

TOSHIKO OKANOUE “THE CALL” 1953

“ A RAGING SEA OF GLORIOUS STRANGENESS” - The Guardian

Written and designed by Abby Prowse.

Trippy History A brief plunge into what has made the psychedelic fashion movement what it is today. The movement of trend cycles and the history of drugs enhancing the creative mind.

Lesson.

Written and designed by Rokeya Rodney.

he nostalgia of the sixties and seventies is one unmatched - a time of unity, partying, connecting with nature, and drugs. Free-spiritedness and peace are the main words synonymous with the era. The psychedelic drug boom of this era is one that society can never forget. The use of drugs like LSD (Lysergic acid diethylamide) in hippie and disco subcultures called for the eye-catching distortion of “70s style”. The 60s brought many creatives to use drugs like marijuana, LSD and magic mushrooms (psilocybin mushrooms) to tap into deeper parts of their brains and amplif y their creativity. Known as the psychedelic era, it sparked artistic change. Musicians, filmmakers and designers alike tried to mimic the experience of a psychedelic trip through their art. Whilst in the hold of Covid-19 and lockdown, studies showed that use of psychedelics once again had spiked. The only way for some to escape the repetitive 4 walls. Research published by the Frontiers in Psychiatry suggests that psychedelics help a user ’s mental state, making them more acceptable of distressing situations. An exhibit of the connection between socio-political change, we have reached a type of psychedelic renaissance.

Exploring patterns and designs of Oriental and African origin, these patterns became almost synonymous with psychedelic fashion. This could mirror the unity that the “hippie” subculture known for. Embracing and being inspired by different cultures. The trends predecessor of Mod fashion being much sleeker and “put together ” shows just how fast the fashion world has been moving for some time. Still, these trends cycle back into the trend circuit. Mod fashion being introduced in the 50s but gaining mass popularity in the early 50s. The shift from two different styles meant that they at points merged. Mixing boxy silhouettes of mod dresses and high necklines that exhibit a refined and almost restricting design, distorted patterns and overtly bright colours collide to evolve the style.

The major effect of a “trip” is the heightened appreciation of colours, textures and patterns. It ’s no wonder fashion designers longed to put these experiences into reality. The smearing of boundaries and restrictions is a key aspect of psychedelic clothing. Things that would seem mis-matched and out of the ordinary together somehow go hand in hand. As the subculture of drug taking grew, it was no time till mainstream high-end brands caught on. Defining the fashion of the 60s to 70s, Yves Saint Laurent was at the peak.

We are seeing contemporary examples of this same style evolution happen. Designers are using these typical psychedelic tropes and merging them into modern creations.

Tie dye and fringe slowly trickled onto the catwalk. With many brands following in the footsteps of YSL .

The trend has dripped down into fast fashion also, with many brands donning marbled patterns or distorted shapes to add funk to their designs. The 70s groove has evolved into the staple style choice of the 2020s. 33

Mind Over Matter. A surrealist photoshoot depicting how mental illness can feel to its victims.

Written and designed by Eleanor Byrne. Modelled by Alexia Kyriacou.

Schizophrenia; a mental disorder characterized by disruptions in thought processes, perceptions, emotional responsiveness and social interactions.

Anxiety disorder; recurring feelings of excessive nervousness, worry or fear that impact one’s ability to function on a daily basis.

Body dismorphia; a severe form of body image disturbance, characterized by an excessive concern or preoccupation with one’s appearance.

It’s all in t

A shoot on the beauty of the eyes, and a Sur

Photographed and designed by Rokeya Rodney. Modelled by Leah Payne.

the eyes.

rrealism take on the idea of multiple eyes.

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Photographed, styled and designed by Emma Bell.

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PERSPEC TIVES.

A photoshoot inspired by the ‘Perspective Project’. A social enterprise tackling mental health stigma through art and creativity. “ This project has helped me in more ways than one. Not only am I getting to share the pieces that mean the most to me; but seeing the feedback on my drawings helps me realise that I am indeed not alone in whatever I am going through. It is great to see art where someone can look at it and know that they are not alone”. - Morgan Page, Artist.

The perspective project was founded in the UK in August 2017 by the London based founder, Mark Anscombe. Their mission is to end the stigma around mental health, breaking down barriers through the use of art and creativity. Since their launch in 2017, they have shared the work of over 250 artists, poets and writers from around the world. Their work has been viewed over 2 million times across 96 countries.

“ Your website is full of inspiration - and it really helps to see that so many other people are making similar experiences in life and use art as a coping strategy ”. Sophia Klose, Artist

Alongside their digital gallery, they also participate in exhibitions, events and gallery showings - bringing the work of their fantastic artists, poets and writers to a new audience. They also run creative workshops, and work with companies to open the conversation about mental health in the workplace.

“By giving time and space to each creator ’s story, the ‘full picture’ of the ‘Personal Perspectives’ was incredibly diverse, offering a range of personal stories which shed light on the complexities of the issue”. - Charlie Norton, Reporter for Palatinate.

All the works displayed on this site were submitted by members of the public, containing honest and powerful accounts of mental health issues and events. The subcategories of work include: poetry, art, written, photography and video. The Perspective Project Foundation enables individuals to use their voice through so many powerful mediums. “ Your project has provided myself with a lifeline”. - Carla Cannon, Artist.

Written, designed and photographed by Sofia Wells. Modelled by Nicole Hardy.

“One piece of advice to anyone who likes photography is that you can’t get your creativity wrong. Just go with what you are instinctively drawn to and do what you feel called to do. Experiment and see what you come up with. Another lovely thing to do is to spend time with your images, rather than just to look at them. There will be a reason why some stand out to you, whether it ’s of yourself, someone else, nature, or an urban shot ”.

One artist that contributes to the perspective project is Kathryn Chapman. “I was totally fascinated with how photographs transposed themselves from the image you have in your heads or how we see things. When we look through a camera at the world, things change and things are different ”. “Opening up possibilities for people is so powerful. Showing them things like courage and bravery is so empowering and saying ‘this is who you really are, go achieve what your potential is, you don’t need to hold yourself back anymore or doubt yourself because you’re so incredible.’ There’s the freedom of expression and then the freedom to go on in yourself and be who you want to be”.

“I look at my images everyday and they are my anchor. My images say to me: go with what you think and feel, don’t stop believing in yourself.”

IT’S

MOSCHINO A/W 2022

E L

How has Dali inspired fashion in the past 100 years?

Written and designed by Amy Dulwich.

TO ME.

DALI & SCHIAPARELLI’S LOBSTER DRESS

MOSCHINO A/W 2022

seemed to revel in. Since Dali and Schiaparelli’s collaboration in the 30s, artists and designers have taken inspiration from their work and designs, with the past decade being particurlaly influenced by surrealism. Adrianna Lima was shot for Vogue Arabia by Elizaveta Porodina in 2019 - a shoot which was heavily influenced by surrealism with motifs of unusual eyes, lips and cigarettes. There was also many images in 1930s & 1940s film style, with black and white photos mixed in with bright red motifs and colours across the spreads.

Salvador Dali was born in Spain on the 11th of May 1904. As he grew and his love for art increased, he became greatly influenced by movements such as impressionism and cubism. He went on to firmly secure himself as one of the founders of Surrealism - an art movement that still inspires modern artists like Damien Hirst today. You’ll most likely have seen one of his paintings before even if you’re not familiar with his name. The Persistence of Memory and The Spectre of Sex Appeal are some of his most shared and raved about paintings. He’s also well known for having a pet Ocelot named Babou... as a very odd and eccentric man, it ’s no suprise he decided to collaborate with dramatic designer Elsa Schiaparelli. They collaborated during the 30s and 40s. Elsa enjoyed working with artists such as Dali as it saved her ‘from the boring reality of merely making a dress to sell’. Schiaparelli enjoyed using everyday objects in her designs which helped to create the iconic 1937 Lobster dress (pictured above). Dalí placed the lobster on a long gown which was then debuted by Wallis Simpson in a Cecil Beaton photoshoot, shortly before her marriage to the Duke of Windsor in May of 1937. It gained Schiaparelli fame and notoriety, which Salvador Dali was already used to, and SALVADOR DALI & ELSA SCHIAPARELLI 49

THIERRY MUGLER 1997

Designers in the past 20 years or so are still using surrealism in their pieces. Mugler is known for using huge shapes and dramatic silhouettes in their designs which lends itself to the art movement too. In the 1997 show above, fur, huge hats, fishnets, high heels, gloves, latex and odd silhouettes are huge themes throughout the show. An almost early psychedelic-style pattern is rife on the dresses and tops throughout the catwalk , paying homage to the odd and almost futuristic ( yet still unrealistic) theme of surrealist art. More recently, Loewe

LOEWE A/W 2022

in their Autumn/Winter show unveiled a huge collection of unique and strange looks heavily influenced by the work of Dali and Schiaparelli. Dresses in the shape of cars, huge lips, optical illusion dresses, hand motifs and huge statement shoes are just some of the patterns in the show. It ’s all weird, surreal and out-there. The Maison Margiela Ready To Wear show of 2009 also took these motifs into their designs, with lots of optical illusion dresses, covered faces, huge hats, statement graphics and a dark and gloomy venue.

LOEWE A/W 2022

MAISON MARGIELA 2009 RT W 51

SHOCK WAVE. The Acid House scene of the late 80s was one of exploration, sexual promiscuity, and hedonism; genres still explored when the sun goes down. The Second Summer of Love was a global phenomenon, and its impact is still prevalent today. Explore with us how dance music took over the world - and fashion, as we absorb the shock wave that is rave culture.

Photographed, designed and styled by Abby Prowse. Modelled by Immi Sturgeon, Amy Dulwich and Gemma Davies.

Surrealism beyond bound aries.

Photographed, written and designed by Hema Dixons. Modelled by Yosanna and Serena.

Surrealism is a style in art in which ideas, objects and images are combined in a strange way. Surrealism, is sought to challenge the conception of normality through the power of photography. Surrealism is always tied into reality in some way. Even though it ’s not realistic, it needs to be believable. A surreal photo will look very different to a traditional photograph as it tends to come accross as odd, bizarre and unexpected. Objects could be juxtaposed with landscapes and human subjects.

Surrealsm images are also used to reveal the strangeness of the world we think we know. Creating Surrealism shoots can be fun and can be done in different ways like at home, in a photo studio or in everyday life. Unusual elements in a setting can be disruptive enough to challenge reality. This can end up making you think of a story where this placement makes sense or find other meanings and uses for a given object.

There’s never any boundaries when it comes to surrealism. Surreal photos present pictures that are unlikely to be found in the real world. Surreal artists such as Dora Maar, Lee Miller, and Guy Bourdin are known for achieving artistic freedom in their surrealism shoots and produce photographs which have a special impact. Surrealism can also be done by using a variety of objects such as a mannequin, as mannequins tend to juxtapose real bodies that come with unrealistic expectations. Man Ray who is also another surrealist artist, uses various mannequins in her work , as it represents a life-like depiction of the human form.

A SERIES OF CREATIVE SURREALISM LOOKS CREATED THAT ARE INSPIRED BY DALI, FRIDA KAHLO AND PICASSO.

“Surrealism is destructive, but it destroys only what it considers to be shackles limiting our vision.”

Makeup and photography by Katherine Stothert. Designed by Maddi Reynolds.

URREALISM.

A SERIES OF

Inspired by Picasso.

Inspired by Frida Khalo.

Inspired by Dali.

PICASSO.

Pablo Picasso’s career is known for covering a wide range of artistic disciplines, and so one cannot call him a surrealist artist as such. However, there was definetly particularly from the 1920s - evidence of surrealist influence in many of his works. From around 1927, Picasso’s work began to take the form of what could be seen as surrealist but there were signs of this influence in his previous works. Picasso drew from influences

from the ‘outside’, and consciously looked at specific elements of the discipline that, from his perspective, would improve his own artistic style. In the mid-1930s, Picasso became increasingly associated with surrealist thinkers, such as the poet, Paul Eluard. Indeed, it is clear that Picasso was influenced by the movement to some extent, as he even tried his hand at writing surrealist poetry himself and also took part in surrealist art exhibitions.

In 1925, the Surrealist writer André Breton set Picasso as ‘one of ours’ in his article, ‘Le Surréalisme et la peinture’, published in Révolution surréaliste. ‘Les Demoiselles d’Avignon’ was reproduced for the first time in Europe in the same issue. Picasso exhibited Cubist works at the first Surrealist group exhibition in 1925 but the concept of ‘psychic automatism in its pure state’ defined in the Manifeste du surréalisme never appealed to him entirely.

DALI.

Salvador Dalí was known for his wild art and a public personality, and these two elements helped him rise above in the world of the surrealists. His quote said it all, “the difference between me and the surrealists, is that I am a surrealist ”. His unconventional style and sometimes outrageous ideas were highly sought in his commercial work - in fashion, photography, advertising

and film - and they brought the style to a huge popular audience. Not only did he leave a mark on surrealism, but even twenty years following his death, his artwork and influences can be seen almost everywhere around the world. Even twenty years following his death, his artwork and influences can be seen almost everywhere around the world.

Dalí painted many works with religious themes, but he continued to explore erotic themes to represent his childhood memories, and to use themes centring on his wife, Gala. Notwithstanding their technical accomplishments, those later paintings are not as highly regarded as the artist ’s earlier work.

FRIDA KAHLO.

Kahlo experienced a life-changing event in 1925– she was impaled after getting in a streetcar accident, and was severely injured. During her recovery, she began to really gravitate toward painting, making some of her first self portraits which she gave her friend, Gómez Arias, who was also involved in the accident. Regarding her own work , Frida never really categories her style, besides

noting that her paintings were the “frankest expression of myself ”. Famed surrealist Andre Brenton, who admired her work , tried to convince her she was, in fact, a surrealist, while her husband firmly believed she was a realist. Regardless of the degree to which she was suffering, Frida Kahlo always enjoyed the spectacle of herself. She was a playful exhibitionist, a fervid and erotic provocateur dispatching 67

updates from the land of female suffering. It was part of what made her difficult: She forced people to look at her, to share her feelings, when they would prefer to look away. There is clear pain and sorrow in many of her pieces, but the whimsy, the colors, the richness. All of this shows a true love of life and appreciation for existing.

Photographed and designed by Leah Payne. Modelled by Ellie Atherly.

Using mirrors and kaliedescopes, showing a surrealistic way of photography.

MIRROR

MIRROR.