BY CARIDAD BUSTAMANTE
NUDE MINIMALISM
JOURNALISTIC
Is less really more?
An exploration to the reappearance of minimalism by Caridad Bustamante
To contrast the chaotic and rushed lives of consumers, designers are focusing on pure silhouettes and monochromatic lines. Nude Minimalism is a trend that has arrived to New York and Paris Fashion Weeks. It focuses on comfortable workwear including monochromatic tailoring and simple patterns. Clothes are practical and versatile as they can allow people to wear the same outfit all day without having to make adjustments every 5 minutes. The color palette is filled with earth tones and nude tones. The trend follows the concept of less is more. Not only showing delicate patterns but unsaturated colors and linear silhouettes. As any trend, Nude Minimalism comes from the change in consumer’s behaviors and the fashion history that influenced it. This trend is a consequence of fashion’s respond to our changing relationship with the home, as it shifts to become a multifunctional system for living. As Anna Ross mentions in WGSN’s Style Trend Concepts A/W 20/21, fluid working patterns are enabling us to take traditional outdoor activities inside. And even when we are not at home, we still have access to control it through technologies linked to our phones. Consumers are trying to look for a place to scape and take their mind away from their hectic lives and environment around them. Nude Minimalism is a comfort and safe zone. Trends have been following the 80’s excess and opulence for the last year. Therefore, 90’s minimalism will start to show, leading the consumer away from the busy colors and patterns showed during the last decade. Whether is Martin Margiela’s destructured garments or Calvin Klein’s linear style, runways today are definitely mirroring the 90’s. In 1922, Ann Demeulemeester displayed her monochromatic collection where she was experimental. She played with destructured garments as well as gender, showing a “unisex” style that seems to be popular nowadays (Olivia, Designers Who Shaped 90s Min-
The Truth Behind Neon
“The trend we’ve all seen in the latest runway unfolds its background”
Where is Celine going next?
“The retirement of Phoebe Philo leaves the brand with uncertainty”
Currently, designers are victims of a post-Phoebe Philo heritage. Back when Philo was creative director of Chloe, sales were at their highest and she decided to leave the company to spend time with her family. She followed the trend when she left Celine last year, leaving the label after 6 years of work (Alexander, How Phoebe Philo’s Celine Changed your Wardrobe). Last Phoebe Philo’s collection increased sales by 45% after she retired from the company. Her style consisted of oversized coats, pantsuits and A-Line dresses. She understood the modern woman and excelled in minimalism. Nowadays, fall runways are full of oversized turtle necks and camel trench coats that could easily be seen on her. Spedding mentions, on Who What Wear article 9 Street Style Trends That Will Dominate, how The Row’s fashion show during NYFW depicted what could be perceived as a Philo inspired collection due to their minimal aesthetic. Work feminine has appeared in the latest Fall collections. Designs focus on functional details in sophisticated workwear. For instance, trench coats with multipurpose pockets and comfortable trousers. As Ross explains in WGSN’s Trend Concepts A/W 20/21, the sober refinement of a pure design takes inspiration from large shapes in beautiful fabrics. On the other hand, Peclers explains the trend as formal but reassuring tailoring that offers comfortable, accumulated, protective volumes such as coats and turtlenecks. Modern interpretations of plaids, checks, and tweeds are seen in street style and the runway. A clear example is Stella McCartney’s strong shoulder coats says Who What Wear in The Best Fall 2019 Runway Moments From New York Fashion Week.
Furthermore, Nude Minimalism can portray workwear staples that are versatile enough to offer sophistication at work as well as smart leisure (Women’s Style Trend Concepts: Considered Comfort). The prevalent colors of the trend include camel tones, light pinks and earthy tones which are influenced by sustainability. Natural dyes are becoming more popular, therefore, unsaturated tones are the highlight of the runway. Consumer’s change of view regarding the workforce was a game changer. WGSN points that employees move towards arrangements that offer an improved work-life balance in The Hub from Big Ideas 2021 regarding womenswear. In order to achieve this balance, flexibility is key. More women are choosing either freelance or entrepreneurship in order to have complete control over their schedule, time, money and integration. This change demonstrates a shift in how people are living, and therefore, dresses. Garments need to be comfortable as the consumer changes scenarios throughout their day. The same outfit that they use for work should be casual enough for lunch with the girls and comfy enough to deal with grocery shopping afterwards.
9 Trends That Won’t Disappear From Your Feed “Neon, industrial accesories and tailoring are one of the few trends taht shaped this season’s runways”
The change in consumer’s viewpoint regarding their work environment influences their way of dressing. They are looking for something that connects to their roots and that can be overlooked in the chaos of society. Elegance and comfort merge to bring key elements to their wardrobes. Nude Minimalism is influenced by the 90’s. However, it connects to the modern way of living and accomplishes the multi-purpose desire of shoppers. Tailoring, monochrome outfits, and oversized items are a few of the key elements to achieve the tonal modernity that the trend is aiming.
EDITORIAL
The Reappearance of Minimalism The reign of Calvin Klein’s aesthetic during the 90’s is here to stay by Caridad Bustamante
Life for younger generations has been focused around experiences. As brands continue to become experiential, consumers want to be there in order to be the first ones to try things out. The need to be outside and to look for something else has created a rush way of living. The constant problem of always having to leave to be somewhere else becomes more and more common. Therefore, people are now looking for their alone time. Having time for yourself and to ease your thoughts is necessary in order to have balance and inner peace. The shift from an office working generation, to generations who value free lancing and free time, has shaped consumer’s behavior, especially when it comes to fashion.
The Truth Behind Neon
Nude Minimalism is a trend that was one of the highlights in New York and Paris Fashion Weeks. Where does this come from? Tailoring has been on trend for the last two years. However, the different styling and need for comfortable workwear took the trend to another level. The post Phoebe Philo reign, and the increase in sales of her latest collection at Celine, also influenced the appearance of the monochromatic taloring in the shows.
“The trend we’ve all seen in the latest runway unfolds its background”
Clothing needs to be versatile and has to create a sense of scape. Nude tones are prominent in the runway since they contrast with the heavy designs and bright colors that have been shown in the latest shows. It is true that the 80’s are the main source of inspiration in terms of silhouettes and patterns. However, the 90’s minimalism is slowly entering the market and will for sure be present in Autum/Winter 20/21. New York fashion week portrayed shows that excelled the modern look. A clear example is The Row. It showcased monochromatic looks that paired up trousers with oversized turtlenecks. On the other hand, Philip Lim’s F/W 19 sum up the modern, essential wardrobe that continues to explore elegant sportswear and youthful tailoring.
Where is Celine going next?
“The retirement of Phoebe Philo leaves the brand with uncertainty”
9 Trends That Won’t Disappear From Your Feed “Neon, industrial accesories and tailoring are one of the few trends taht shaped this season’s runways”
Laid-back luxe has appeared in the latest Fall collections. Designs focus on functional details in sophisticated workwear. For instance, trench coats with multipurpose pockets and comfortable trousers. As Ross explains in WGSN’s Trend Concepts A/W 20/21, the sober refinement of a pure design takes inspiration from large shapes in beautiful fabrics. The trend as formal but reassuring tailoring that offers comfortable, accumulated, protective volumes such as coats, turtlenecks and slip dresses. Modern interpretations of plaids, checks, and tweeds are seen in street style and the runway. Plaid fabrics also play a role in terms of simple. Lines are thinner and colors maintain toned down. Nude Minimalism will appear in street style and runways as people look for a escape. Chaotic and rushed lives lead to the need of simple but elegant clothing. Layering and oversized garments are key for the styling of this trend.
SOURCES Alexander, Ella. “How Phoebe Philo’s Céline Changed Your Wardrobe (Even If You Didn’t Realise It).” Harper’s BAZAAR, Harper’s BAZAAR, 27 Mar. 2018, www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/ fashion-news/a13034629/phoebe-philo-legacy-and-profile/. Oliva, Selene. “Designers Who Shaped 90s Minimalism.” Vogue.it, Vogue, 16 Mar. 2017, www. vogue.it/en/fashion/trends/2017/03/17/designers-who-shaped-90s-minimalism/?refresh_ce=. Ross, Anna. “Women’s Style Trend Concepts A/W 20/21: Considered Comfort” WGSN, 30 Jan. 2019, https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/82073/page/16 Spedding, Emma. “9 Street Style Trends That Will Dominate Your Instagram Feeds in 2019.” Who What Wear, Who What Wear, 4 Dec. 2018, www.whowhatwear.com/street-style-trends-2019/ slide2 Theodosi, Natalie. “WWD Predicts: Phoebe Philo, Rachel From ‘Friends’ Set Fall 2019 Accessories Trends.” WWD, WWD, 7 Mar. 2019, https://wwd.com/accessories-news/accessory-trends/phoebe-philo-rachel-green-friends-fall-2019-accessories-trends-1203076508/ Who What Wear. “The Best Fall 2019 Runway Moments From New York Fashion Week.” Who What Wear, Who What Wear, 14 Feb. 2019, www.whowhatwear.com/nyfw-fw19-best-runwaylooks. “The End of Excess at Paris Fashion Week.” The Business of Fashion, 27 Feb. 2019, www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-show-review/the-end-of-excess-at-paris-fashion-week.
JOURNALISTIC AND EDITORIAL ARTICLES WRITTEN BY CARIDAD BUSTAMANTE FASH 419 CURRENT TRENDS AND FORECASTING | ANTHONY MILLER SAVANNAH COLLEGE OF ART AND DESIGN